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 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 59 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Is grease/lubrication a DIY on your rig?

Front Wheel Bearing Repack requires removing the Brake Caliper THEN the Caliper Mounting Bracket. That's two big metric bolts with a high torque spec and 21mm fastener head (13/16" will work but you must tap it onto the bolt head). Then the Rotor will come off to give access to the Inner Bearing and Grease Seal. The Outer Grease Cap can be hard to remove since it's down in a cavity on DRW vehicles. I've found I can work it loose with one jaw of a 10" Channel Lock pliers, used as a pry. My point is: Some shops will re-pack only the easily accessible Outer Bearing. The right job requires doing BOTH bearings, and almost certainly the Seal.
j-d 12/10/14 04:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: The reason for falling oil prices explained (maye)

Oil boom here. Every rental and motel full. House value went up $60,000 in the last year (means nothing unless you sell it) property taxes to follow. However, cost to pack trailer wheel bearings went up to $350 from $250. Fuel injector replacement estimate went up $1000. Discount on annual diesel smog test went out the window. BEER went up! Grocery stores and restaurants prices are soaring. Health insurance on the rise. But, my Social Security is going up a whopping 2%! Lower gas prices mean practically nothing. Whoa! BEER went up? NOW we have to do something!!! ;-)
jfkmk 11/16/14 11:17am General RVing Issues
RE: The reason for falling oil prices explained (maye)

Oil boom here. Every rental and motel full. House value went up $60,000 in the last year (means nothing unless you sell it) property taxes to follow. However, cost to pack trailer wheel bearings went up to $350 from $250. Fuel injector replacement estimate went up $1000. Discount on annual diesel smog test went out the window. BEER went up! Grocery stores and restaurants prices are soaring. Health insurance on the rise. But, my Social Security is going up a whopping 2%! Lower gas prices mean practically nothing.
ChopperBill 11/16/14 10:39am General RVing Issues
RE: GM 14-bolt FF Rear End with 149k miles

It has been my experience that differentials are not very prone to wearing out... although I did have a friend that was able to grenade the front Dana 30 in his jeep 3 times before he finally upgraded to a Dana 44 (A Dana 30 doesn't care for 36" Swamper tires). At 150K I would guess the clutches are worn out but once the clutch pack is gone it should function at a regular differential for just about ever. A 20 year old differential should not be very expensive at the local junk yard if it does blow up on you but being stranded sucks! When I upgraded the front of my 67 F100 with an 82 Ford 1 ton front end with power steering I think I paid all of $200 for the rear Dana 60 so my front and rear bolt patterns would match. I would look at the wheel bearings before I fretted over the diff too much. Changing the bearings in an axle generally isn't too difficult. The full floaters I have worked on had C clips holding the axles in the carrier in the diff so I had to remove the diff cover to get the axles out. Some axles lubricate the wheel bearings with the diff oil and don't require packing with grease.
oughtsix 11/15/14 02:09am Tow Vehicles
Fall Maintenance

As much as I absolutely HATE to say goodbye to camping for the long Winter, getting the TT ready for cold weather eventually has to be done. Monday is my day off so this past Monday I got my compressor and blew out the water pipes and then took the TT down to my local RV shop for them to do the rest. My checklist was as follows: Check roofRe-pack wheel bearingsCheck brakesClean and lube slideReplace exterior rubber gasket around bedroom door (it fell off this past Summer during one of our travels) When I get it back I will put RV anti-freeze in all the pea traps and in the black tank, and then put on my wheel covers and cover my power jack for the Winter. The trees here in Easter Oregon have only just begun to lose their leaves and I'm already longing for Spring! :) What does your Fall check-list look like?
LeBout 10/15/14 10:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Wheel Bearing OR Brake Failure?

My questions: 1. Is the wire chafing a possible cause and have others observed this problem? 2. Are wheel bearing failures common and what are the typical causes (besides lack of grease and overloaded)? 3. What additional inspections / maintenance might stop these failures? Davideh 1. No...wire shorting would cause less braking...depending on your controller...you will get a fault message. Is it possible that your breakaway switch has been accidentally pulled?/ or faulty? 2. Not with regular maintenance. 3. If the breakaway system hasn't been active for some reason...I really cannot offer much. You say it's been on the curb side both time...has it been the same axle? If it's only been one spindle...then that would draw my attention next. Personally, I would start by picking a pet axle...replace both brake assemblies, install new Timken bearing cones and races as a pair, new quality double lipped grease seal...remove ALL the old grease. Get NEW grease and pack those bearing FULL of grease with a packing tool... Dexter axle has a list of recommended grease... I believe AL-KO just recommends a NGLI #2 with Lithium based soaps...and a minimum drop point of 400 degrees F. Don't mix greases...pick one of the recommended greases and stick with it. Follow the mfg. instructions for proper sequence for tightening the axle nut. Adjust the brakes following the mfg. instructions. Now...when you start towing...make a stop occasionally. Go back and put your hand on the axle hub...are they all running cool...do you have a hot one? Is it your pet axle or the other one? You have to figure out how to pinpoint the location of the problem...if there is one. Do your axles become submerged at all? I'm kinda at a loss...because carefully serviced axle hubs, done on an annual basis, that don't get submerged in water --- have NEVER been a problem that I know of. If someone puts in cheap bearings...or under-rated bearings...over tighten or under tighten the axle nut...you can start to have problem...but you're looking at catastrophic problems.
chuggs 10/14/14 01:20pm Tech Issues
Brakes AND Bearing

Just wanted to know if I have the basics, fixing to check the brakes and bearings on my new to me (and 1st) rv (5ver) jack up and place stands in proper location, remove drum and hand pack bearings (been some time but I think I remember) inspect brake pads (similar inspection as car drum brake ??) (clean up with brake cleaner ??) replace and adjust via the star wheel method as described in a help video, anything else while I am in there ??? suggestions also I hope this is the correct forum?
g4sbrg 10/10/14 01:04pm Tech Issues
RE: 5th wheel rebuild from major water damage

Sorry to have taken so long to get these new photos posted of the "finished" product. We got distracted with actual camping!!! It kind of felt like a miracle that the RV actually got put back together enough to actually camp in. There is still work to do until it is closer to perfect (mostly on the inside) but it has come such a long way! The RV repair guy had to get the RV completely level and do a little more sanding but was then able to get the front cap back on nicely. Being out of level was our main problem with gettting the fiberglass front cap back in place. Note to anyone trying this at home MAKE SURE YOUR RV IS TOTALLY LEVEL BEFORE STARTING!!!! We thought it was good enough sitting basically level in the gravel driveway. THIS IS NOT OK when rebuilding! Leveling could have saved us zillions of hours of frustration and $$$ if we would have known this before starting. We may not have been able to fully fix the problem at our house because our only spot to work on the RV was a gravel drive. But it certainly would have been better. The repair guy said they use floor jacks to jack up the RV all around in different spots to get it totally level BEFORE they start working on them. MAKE SURE AND DO THIS FOR YOURSELVES! Overall it looks pretty good. Up close you can see there has been some work done to the RV but thats OK it works! In case you are wondering the RV repair guy charged us about $600 to complete it and put it back together including putting the cap back on and hanging the interior cabinets over the bed. We also had him pack the bearings, and put 4 brand new tires and replace the hubcaps and check the breaks on the trailer. Lastly he had a bugger of a time getting the gooseneck adapter off. It was welded on and the installers had cross threaded the bolt so it wasn't coming off easy. We had to pay for an hour of labor for that one. Worth it for us because we don't want to crawl in the bed of the truck to hitch every time. We really like a 5th wheel instead of a gooseneck. We will get the adapter retapped and sell it. Total bill from the repair center for repairs and new tires etc $1166.92 http://i.imgur.com/blbKBlsl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eD6ptSTl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UvGZcT5l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RsOiciSl.jpg
LangsRV2 10/06/14 08:30am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Grease in New Brake Assemblies

After the first year on crappy brakes I pulled the hubs and their was grease everywhere, I replaced with $20 seals instead of the 5 dollar brand that was installed at the factory. My hubs cannot be over serviced.. This is the single biggest cause of this with axle manufactures cutting costs wherever they can as does every other manufacture. There are better "double lip", spring reinforced seal-sets available for installation AND there are better quality wheelbearing lubes available that have a higher melt point but the axles manufactures will revert to using the cheaper products every single time. They will also not train their people to properly "pack" wheel bearings during the build process but simple allow them to pressure feed those hubs after they are completely assembled with a pneumatic grease gun that serves to fill the hub cavity with cold grease that forces it's way out past the rear seal before your new hub has even made one revolution in travel. In short: your brakes were "sabotaged" before they even left the factory by some kid paid minimum wage during the final assembly process at Lippert or Dexter before the axles were band strapped, palleted together and shipped off to some warehouse for re-distribution. This whole debacle gets further compounded by 'well meaning' but errant dealer staff again attempting to pressure pump more cold grease into cold hubs as a PDI step. Disassembly and inspection upon delivery with changeout of the rear seals to better quality double lip spring assisted seals, hand packing of the bearings along with later judicious use of a grease gun on those E-Z-Lube hubs, only after you've warmed your hubs with a few interstate miles to then use a couple of slow strokes only of a hand grease gun that is also room temp warm instead of the gun stored in the bottom cabinet under your rig where it's sat all winter is the protocol that will yield years of reliable brakes and hub service.
bstark 09/28/14 09:38am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Wheel Bearings

Just a stupid ?. If the seal doesn"t leak, where does the grease go. A high quality grease should be there forever. My car is approching 100k and I just had brakes done and I told mechanic to change bearings/seals if needed. He did not think any service at this time.In 2009 I changed my brakes to disc and new wheel bearings and seals ( came as part of a kit) have not been touched since and inspection says they are good to go. Dexter says yearly. I say every time you pull the wheel to inspect the drum brakes. Which I believe you should do but I don't have that problem so I elect to leaave well enough alone. Actually a really good question. I have only torn down a few hubs in my life with good seals and the grease was bad. Both were old hubs and the grease was more than likely made in the 50's or older. What happens is the grease gasses off its light solvents. When this happens the grease gets and feels like wax. It's dry and cakie. (Is that a word??) I just tore a hub apart the other day and it was on a factory pack of around the early 70's. The grease was in fine shape. I don't think the greases of today will gas off like they did years ago. Even if they did it would take a VERY long time. I pull my hubs about every 7 years and inspect them. I have never found them to be in need of packing.
Turtle n Peeps 09/23/14 06:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: put my 19.5s on today

I suspect people are adding 19.5s to NOT push their luck. Perhaps if you think that tires are all that make the difference. They are certainly the weakest link, but the fact is that the other parts of a 1 ton pickup are well-matched to E rated tires. Installing 19.5" tires doesn't fix the underlying problem that the truck, and therefore its axles, springs, bearings, steering, etc., are probably significantly overloaded. If all it took were airbags and G or H rated tires, there'd be no such thing as a DRW 1 ton; a SRW 1 ton with H rated tires has more than enough capacity to significantly exceed the GVWR of a 1 ton DRW with E rated tires without overloading or even stressing the G or H rated tires. It takes a lot longer to see the wear and damage caused by overloading components that take a lot more time to fail than a set of tires, but it doesn't mean that they're not loaded beyond their design limits. You should probably do a lot more research before making comments like that. Aside from tires do you the know the only difference between my SRW and a DRW of the same year? The main leaf pack of the DRW is rated 7% higher, that's it! Everything else you listed is identical. Ford and GM do similar things. Why do is everything a DRW and not a super single SRW? There is a minor benefit to the width, but one is generally above GVWR at that point. There is also public perception, same reason the all new powerstroke was made a V-8 when OTR trucks have shown us an I6 is better. Tire cost is another, as well as ride. My 19.5's ride petty good compared to my LRE's, in fact I prefer the ride in most conditions, but they are not what most people want from a ride. They also carry a 75 mph speed rating, lower than the rural interstate speed limit out here. So if you want to talk design limits then you should know what they are first. Rundown of my truck, and any 04-12 Dodge and most 03 diesels. Front axle and suspension, same 2500 to DRW. All rated at 5,200lbs(03-09) or 5500lbs (10-12)depending on year. Steering, same 2500 to 3500 DRW on diesel. DRW gas gets hydro boost that SRW doesn't have. Frame. Same, give the same wheelbase, 2500-DRW. Rear axle, all diesels 04-12 and most 03's have the same AAM 11.5" axle. The axle is rated by AAM for 10,912 lbs for SRW or DRW. Dodge give its ratings based on model from 6,010 to 9,350lbs. All under the design limit. Rear suspension. All 2500-DRW use the same mounts. For 03-09 the 2500 and 3500 SRW main spring pack is a 4/1 design and is rated at 2600lbs/in. The DRW pack is a 3/1 design rated at 2800 lbs/in. Both 3500 SRW and DRW have upper overloads rated at 1300lbs/in. For 10-12 the 2500 and 3500 DRW are unchanged, the only change is to the 3500 SRW which loses the upper overloads and switches to the 3/1 spring pack. It's actually a weaker rear suspension than the 03-09's, but in 03-09 the upper overloads where not even engaged at the OEM RAWR so there wasn't much point to them. This is your single biggest difference, aside from tires. You can see there isn't a lot of difference, and certainly nothing a pair of airbags can't handle for a SRW. All SRW HD pickups are tire and wheel limited, even the GM and Dodge gas 2500's with smaller axles. I believe all fords use the sterling 10.5" on SRW and Dana 80 on DRW. The discussion is good, let's just try to keep it as accurate as possible.
AH64ID 09/22/14 09:20pm Truck Campers
RE: wheel bearings

First a comment on RV Professionals, I have not found one yet, ok that is my rant. It depends on the type of wheel bearing. The below is from another post of mine. If you do not have an oil bath bearing or a hub bearing you many find this useful. I saved all my tools, learned the lesson never sell a tool as you get nothing for them and as soon as you sell one you need it. This is a bearing packer and does a great job. The bearings are the ones from the trailer (seals said dexter on them, bearings are from china). http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4893.jpg This is a photo of the bearing in the packer, I am using red grease, brand can be seen in the previous photo. Note that it came out right away (leading edge white, indicating very little of the grease that was used to pack the bearings a CW) http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4894.jpg http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4895.jpg Now these bearings are PACKED with grease, excess can be wiped away. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4896.jpg So.... now back together we go.... a little grease on the spindle. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4897.jpg Seal seated correctly. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4898.jpg Correct preload on the bearings and spindle nut retainer in place. To get the correct preload tighten the spindle nut while turning the drum. when the spindle nut meets resistance, stops turning with a small amount of effort (a light touch is needed), back the nut off one flat (just far enough that you can get the cotter pin through one of the openings in the castle nut retainer. If you do not under stand this get help. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4900.jpg
GlennLever 09/20/14 07:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Outrageous Pricing

You all are scaring me! :E I hope they can install tires and repack bearings! I just ordered 4 GY 614's and made an appointment for install and wheel bearing re-pack. Now...I shopped all over for the tires and CW had the best price $304 plus I got a $25 rebate per tire making them $279 each. The re-pack quote was $229 for our double axle Alpenlite as opposed to the $269 from the local guy. Average price from other tire sources was in the $370 range plus shipping. Here in the north corner of WA state, local dealers are most often higher priced than CW for service and many supplies. I would pay a little extra to support the local shops but not a few hundred more! Amazon is often less expensive than either when purchasing equipment/supplies etc. I did get the same ADCO cover that CW sells for $368 for $330 free shipping. Saved me $30 plus a trip south! My experience with CW is like everywhere else...shop around to see where the best deal is. PS My appointment was scheduled a month out so they must be very busy! We have not had good luck at the CW's service in Fife or Burlington, WA. The service done in Burlington CW was so bad it all had to be redone in the Mesa, AZ CW at the direction of Marcus Lemonis, CEO Camping World. Had it not been for Marcus Lemonis's intervention we probably would have had to pay over $2500 to get the work that Burlington, WA didn't do properly corrected at the Mesa, AZ CW. This all started out as out of warranty work that was to be paid for by the RV manufacturer. First they were required to do an inspection and report their findings. The Manufacturer approved the repairs which CW Burlington told us would be completed by 5:00PM. We came back at 5:00PM and they hadn't even started doing the work. Had to make a 4 hour round trip a week later to pick up the unit and later found out that hadn't done the repairs they were authorized to do. The repairs that had been authorized in Burlington, WA CW had to be done properly in Mesa, AZ. Don't know what would have happened without getting Marcus Lemonis involved. Marcus came through but it sure has left a bad taste in our mouth for the Burlington, WA CW. Before they even started to do the inspection that the manufacturer had authorized, they immediately started trying to add on other work that supposedly was needed. It was all phony.
MrVan 09/04/14 01:14pm Camping World Service and Installation
RE: Outrageous Pricing

You all are scaring me! :E I hope they can install tires and repack bearings! I just ordered 4 GY 614's and made an appointment for install and wheel bearing re-pack. Now...I shopped all over for the tires and CW had the best price $304 plus I got a $25 rebate per tire making them $279 each. The re-pack quote was $229 for our double axle Alpenlite as opposed to the $269 from the local guy. Average price from other tire sources was in the $370 range plus shipping. Here in the north corner of WA state, local dealers are most often higher priced than CW for service and many supplies. I would pay a little extra to support the local shops but not a few hundred more! Amazon is often less expensive than either when purchasing equipment/supplies etc. I did get the same ADCO cover that CW sells for $368 for $330 free shipping. Saved me $30 plus a trip south! My experience with CW is like everywhere else...shop around to see where the best deal is. PS My appointment was scheduled a month out so they must be very busy!
SH 09/02/14 07:04pm Camping World Service and Installation
RE: How much do you pay for the following work

Around here in central AZ, I was quoted $129 to $150 an axle for a re-pack, new seals and brake inspection/adjustment. I found a shop that charged me $29/wheel for the re-pack/re-seal and brake adjustment and an additional $18/wheel for all-new bearings. $100 per axle =with= new bearings and seals. Sure stops better, without grabbing, too. Add $75 to $100 for a mobile service to show up, plus hourly. Lyle
laknox 08/25/14 01:28pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Question about Eazy lube axles

Here is a pic of the spindle of an E-Z lube axle and you can see the zerk fitting on the end of the spindle where you pump in the grease. http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u639/12491/E%20Z%20Lube/Spindlegreaseoriginal_zpsf30322c8.jpg width=600 Below is a picture of the hole where the grease comes out. The grease goes into the zerk thru the center of the axle and exits that hole. It is located just inside of the grease seal that rides up on that flat portrion in the picture and the grease inters the area between the larger diameter of the inside bearing and the grease seal. This is why one has to be EXTREMELY CAREFUL and follow carefully the directions such as rotating as you pump (which takes two people since one needs to be rotating the wheel while the other pumps the grease SLOWLY) and ONLY USING a hand pump grease gun since a powered one can force the grease into that small area too fast and blow past the grease seal. This significant downside is still there even with hand pumping if the conditions are just right. http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u639/12491/E%20Z%20Lube/Spindlegreasehole1_zps89b35ea4.jpg width=600 Here is another picture of that exit point with some grease coming out of the hole in the axle. http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u639/12491/E%20Z%20Lube/Spindlegreasehole2_zps2f2652c3.jpg width=600 Now to the meat of the main issues with these E-Z lube axles. To analyze this at my first bearing service after I carefully cleaned all the bearings I pump grease into the zerk to just where it starts to come out of that hole. I then installed a completely dry bearing and the old grease seal into the hub and mounted the hub to the axle. To properly document a snapshot I then did TWO FULL STROKE pump on a standard hand grease gun w/o rotating the hub since I wanted to get a feeling for how much grease actually got to the bearing. This was because there had been multiple posts like yours where individuals were giving their axles one to like five pumps of grease and thinking they had actually done anything. I was appalled at the result. Below in just how much grease you get in that area with those two full pumps I described above. http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u639/12491/E%20Z%20Lube/Twopumpgrease_zps59a5876e.jpg width=600 As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.:p Now here are the real issues and why these E-Z lube axles are a great idea, with poor execution and dismal effectiveness. To even have a hope of being effective the entire void between the two bearing inside the hub cavity has to be 100% packed with grease w/o voids or air pockets. The only way I can even think to accomplish this is to some how install the hub with the inner bearing and grease seal installed leaving the outside bearing out and then somehow stuff grease into that cavity ensuring you don't have any voids or air pockets. This is critical since the how concept of these axles is to pump grease into that zerk with it coming out at that inner cavity and forcing enough grease out thru the hub and thru the outer bearing so you replace a large amount of grease in each bearing. No body says how much grease you should see come out from zerk end of the axle thru the outer bearing. Also, there is absolutely no way to tell for sure if the grease pumped in or expelled has been evenly distributed around each bearing. This requires IMO a whole lot of HOPE and some serious PRAYING. I will readily admit I didn't document as well as I could exactly how much grease one wastes in filling that hub void around the axle between the two bearings and on some more noodling my first SWAG of close to two tubes for 4 wheels once everything is said and done is I think closer to being right that my second SWAG of 1/3 tube per wheel or 1 and 1/3 tubes for 4 wheels. There is a lot of space around that axle between the bearings that must be 100% filled with grease and in any event ALL THAT GREASE in there is WASTED since that is not used with a normal hand pack bearing service. I won't even get into how you initially fill up the cavity initially w/o leaving air pockets or voids and am still wanting to see how someone SLOWLY PUMPS in grease while SIMULATANOUSLY ROTATING the wheel so you evenly distribute the grease around the bearing and don't accidently try and force a lot of grease at a concentrated spot with the least point of resistance probably being that immediate grease seal since what you are doing is forcing the grease against that seal and HOPING is pushes grease the entire length of the hub and out the outer bearing area. SORRY anyone logically looking at what is required and what is to be accomplished that wouldn't have nightmares is IMO just not RIGHT INSIDE as the ole car commercial said. My bottom line recommendation is to ignore the EZ Lube capability and just do a regular normal disassembly, inspect and hand pack. Larry
LarryJM 08/22/14 12:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: Another tire question, do you rotate them?

When I re-pack the wheel bearings annually, the tires come off to do this so I rotate them. Can't hurt and only takes a minute to roll the tires to the other side before putting them on.
Neal47 08/15/14 07:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: F350 SRW weight limitations

I have a 3700 lb. camper when fully loaded and of that weight only 200 lbs. is carried by the front suspension, wheels, and tires. The diesel engine is carried by the front suspension, wheels, and tires, and adds no load at all to the rear axle and its wheel bearings and tires. Focus on the rear of the truck. Tires are available for the stock rims with a load capacity of 3750 per tire or a total load capacity of 7500 lbs at the rear axle less the 3200 lb. weight of the truck which leaves a payload capacity of 4300 lbs. for the truck. That is the payload that the rear can handle with an adequate set of leaf springs. GM has rear axles on its heavy duty trucks rated at 6000, 6500, 6700, 9300 lbs. and the difference is the leaf pack that is put on the truck at the factory. My 2500 SRW has a 6700 GAWR rating and standard 3500 SRW trucks have a rating of 6500 lbs., and DRW a rating of 9300 lbs. - and with GM diesel pickups the same axles, wheel bearings, and rear differential is used on all of them. If the camper weight causes the truck to sag in the rear (with the new tires) then add SuperSprings. You can add one or two springs per side to provide a load capacity of 4,000 lbs. or 5,000 lbs. which is more than enough for most campers and gear. Important to realize that the payload rating is calculated at the factory and based on the weakest link when the truck is assembled and shipped out. Otherwise identical trucks with different wheels or leaf packs can have vastly different payload ratings applied at the factory. Modifications are done all the time which increase the payload rating as with adding Supersprings, new tires, airbags, and the like or to decrease the safe payload by lifting or lowering the truck or putting on flash rims and low profile tires.
wintersun 08/06/14 06:19pm Truck Campers
RE: Felt so bad for older couple traveling today

Nothing wrong with a TT. Just remember to pack your wheel bearings regularly.
mockturtle 07/16/14 01:21pm General RVing Issues
RE: Payload vs CWR

The stock truck has a factory calculated maximum payload figure that is based on the leaf packs and wheels provided on the truck when it leaves the factory. The Duramax 2500HD SRW, 3500HD SRW, and 3500HD DRW, all have the same axle and wheel bearings which are rated by AAM at 10,900 lbs. but the factory rear axle loads are rated at 6000-6700 for the 2500HD, at 6500 for the 3500HD and 9300 for the 3500HD DRW trucks. The difference is in the extra leaf pack on the 3500HD and the two extra wheels with the DRW version. No factory stock pickup is ready to drive down the highway with a heavy camper in the bed. Everyone upgrades the suspension and mods include adding Supersprings or air bags or stableloads or heavy duty shocks or anti-sway bars or all of these items. With SRW it is common to upgrade the factory tires to get more load capacity. In addition you will need to add tie-downs, possibly a special superhitch for towing, wiring for the camper that includes an isolator and fuse. Many also rig a backup camera for the camper. Don't expect a car salesman to be able to order a truck that is truly camper ready as they do not exist. The camper dealers know campers and can do some of the wiring and maybe install the tie-downs but that is about it. If you want a turnkey RV vehicle get a motorhome. Then all you need to do is put gas in the tank and start driving. Good idea to do more research so as to avoid costly mistakes like adding airbags for use with a camper. Also don't blindly accept the sticker weight on a camper. It is likely to be 300-400 lbs. lower than the actual dry weight of the camper. Take a look at the tires on the truck. My GM Duramax came with tires rated at 3195 lbs. and that meant a maximum camper weight of 3200 lbs. fully loaded. I quickly sold the tires that came with the truck and bought ones rated for 3750 lbs. to gain 1100 lbs. of load capacity. You do need to be a smart buyer and take the time to do the research. Don't expect to have everything done for you as this does not work with truck campers or truck camper camping.
wintersun 07/05/14 12:42am Truck Campers
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