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 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 41 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I like my EZ-lubes just fine. As for where the grease expanded from temperature goes, that little rubber boot in cummins pic expands outward. Pops back in when the pressure drops. I use any good lithium based wheel bearing grease. And even though I don't have disk brakes, I still use the disk brake grease, because it is a high temp formula. You don't have to remove the cap sleeve to add grease. That little rubber boot pops right out. This is pretty much the same that I do and same type of grease. Has worked fine for me. I enjoy not having to pack the bearings by hand. I've been doing that for nearly 50 years, and still have to on my old gooseneck with Dexter 8K axles. They were originally oil bath, but switched to grease when I couldn't keep oil in due to only occasional use and flat spotted seals.
msjdbman 03/10/17 03:09pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I prefer to hand pack them myself , that way I get a good look at the brakes, bearings, races and all the other components. Plus it's just plain old too easy to blow out the seals pumping that much grease in there. After actually pulling my hub off, inspecting, adjusting the bearings and pumping in the grease I have to say I completely disagree! I felt virtually no resistance difference while pumping the handle when the cavity started to fill. http://i.imgur.com/8SonF3cl.jpg Do it whichever way you want too, it's your trailer, but on my trailers EZ lubes aren't a maintenance replacement for disassembling & inspection of bearings, races, spindles, brakes, magnets and other hub components. If that cavity is totally full of grease, what happens when the brakes heat up the drum/hub and the grease expands. Where does the grease go? The picture shown appears to be from an axle without brakes! On an axle like this Easy Lube is the only way to go! Just pump till your hearts content and let the grease ooze onto the wheel rim. If you have brakes on a trailer then the cleanliness of those brake shoes and magnet is of upmost importance. If you did not understand I pulled the hub, that requires the silver cap to be removed. I did all the greasing with the cap off and then removed the excess grease before replacing the cap.
Cummins12V98 03/09/17 08:26am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I prefer to hand pack them myself , that way I get a good look at the brakes, bearings, races and all the other components. Plus it's just plain old too easy to blow out the seals pumping that much grease in there. After actually pulling my hub off, inspecting, adjusting the bearings and pumping in the grease I have to say I completely disagree! I felt virtually no resistance difference while pumping the handle when the cavity started to fill. http://i.imgur.com/8SonF3cl.jpg Do it whichever way you want too, it's your trailer, but on my trailers EZ lubes aren't a maintenance replacement for disassembling & inspection of bearings, races, spindles, brakes, magnets and other hub components. If that cavity is totally full of grease, what happens when the brakes heat up the drum/hub and the grease expands. Where does the grease go? The picture shown appears to be from an axle without brakes! On an axle like this Easy Lube is the only way to go! Just pump till your hearts content and let the grease ooze onto the wheel rim. If you have brakes on a trailer then the cleanliness of those brake shoes and magnet is of upmost importance.
Likes to tow 03/09/17 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

First of all, Dexter's web site recommends a few brands of grease and Pennzoil 707L is on that list and Lippert's recommended list also. It's red and has a high drop point (holds up to heat). Also some web sites do not recommend combining two different greases. They recommend washing all the old grease out and then hand packing. There are a substantial number of articles and forums you can read on the Easy Lube Hubs. I personally think they are great for a boat trailer but the possibility of putting too much grease in the bearing cavity is very great! My previous 5th wheel was pre owned when I got it and the brakes simply did not even begin to work. Pulling the manual lever on the brake controller did nothing. I took the brake drums off and what I saw was unbelievable. The brake shoes and magnets were totally covered in grease!!!!!!!! I called the previous owner and ask him about it. He said "why sure, we always put grease in the zerk each time we prepared for a trip." I did not replace the brakes but washed everything down in gasoline and lacquer thinner. I replaced the seals and hand packed the bearings. Brakes worked great after that.......for a while. Then I noticed little braking ability when using the manual lever. I removed all four wheels again and apparently grease had oozed out of the brake linings and contaminated the drum surface. So I cleaned them all our again. Brakes good for about a year then same thing....more grease had oozed out of the linings. I put up with this for a few years, never replacing the brake shoes and finally when I traded it in last year for a new 5th wheel with new brakes I was totally shocked at the braking power I had. Never had I been able to stop like this!!! Bottom line....don't use the easy lube zerk fitting. Hand pack your bearings and use quality grease at least every other year depending on how many miles you travel. If your shoes are already contaminated then REPLACE THEM now.
Likes to tow 03/07/17 06:31am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. Yes, Youtube.com has a lot of useful videos.
trail-explorer 02/13/17 11:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion.. Once upon a time, I didn't know how to do myself. I learned and saved tons of money - by doing it myself. People can learn - even folks who don't know how to do it today. Spike is right...this is re-packing wheel bearings it is NOT rocket science or brain surgery. And THE BEST reason to do it yourself is that you learn yet another aspect of your rig which makes you that much more self reliant and not dependent on overpriced simple repairs from so called "experts".
fulltimedaniel 02/13/17 07:56am Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion.. Once upon a time, I didn't know how to do myself. I learned and saved tons of money - by doing it myself. People can learn - even folks who don't know how to do it today.. What I was leaning for was the fact that there are some people that should not touch anything like bearings and especially brakes as those parts are important to safety. I have friends that are not mechanically inclined and they feel safer having knowledgable folk do the work they feel unsure doing. That's all.
harley4275 02/12/17 05:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion.. Once upon a time, I didn't know how to do myself. I learned and saved tons of money - by doing it myself. People can learn - even folks who don't know how to do it today.
spike99 02/12/17 02:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion..
harley4275 02/12/17 02:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me...
spike99 02/12/17 09:04am Travel Trailers
Dexter Axle moved?

When we got back from our trip and parked the Cougar 333MKS we discovered that our X-Chocks would not fit between the curb-side wheels. The street-side X-Chock fit just fine. Odd because the X-chocks were previously interchangeable. These are the smaller style x-chock with the adjuster nut on top and a handle at the bottom. My inspection did not reveal a problem. Everything was tight and nothing appeared to have moved. Tires were good but the street-side rear tire was worn more then the others. I took the 5er to a well-regarded frame shop that knows RVs. They checked parallel axle alignment and found the left side short. (5200 lb Dexter axles, MorRyde CRE 3000) They also found worn out plastic spring bushings at the bracket end of both rear springs. They replaced the worn bushings and moved the spare up to the left rear. I also had them pack the bearings and adjust the brakes. The rig has 12,000 miles on it. When I went to pick up the rig I checked wheel clearance with the X-chock and it appears that the clearance between the street-side wheels has not changed. I talked to the manager and left the rig there for more investigation. I asked about possible structural problems and there are none, that was all checked out. Any thoughts on this appreciated. I can't understand how the axles can be parallel yet the clearance between the wheels is different, especially when rims and tires are all the same.
TakingThe5th 01/17/17 04:08pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Long Term Nissan Titan XD Diesel Update

When the bearings on my old semi-float rear axle went, the whole axle/wheel assembly silently pulled out of the housing. It didn't just make a lot of noise and come to a slow, grinding stop. Luckily I was in town, travelling at slow speeds and was flagged down by a pedestrian. And yes, the truck had been overloaded (heavily? probably) for a couple years before hand. It was one of those "an xtra leaf in the spring pack will fix that" deals back when I was young and ignorant. Since then I've been much more worried when exceeding a truck's rear GAWR. There's a big difference between going over GVWR like we are talking about and going over GAWR.
transamz9 01/03/17 09:18am Tow Vehicles
RE: Long Term Nissan Titan XD Diesel Update

When the bearings on my old semi-float rear axle went, the whole axle/wheel assembly silently pulled out of the housing. It didn't just make a lot of noise and come to a slow, grinding stop. Luckily I was in town, travelling at slow speeds and was flagged down by a pedestrian. And yes, the truck had been overloaded (heavily? probably) for a couple years before hand. It was one of those "an xtra leaf in the spring pack will fix that" deals back when I was young and ignorant. Since then I've been much more worried when exceeding a truck's rear GAWR.
brulaz 01/03/17 06:37am Tow Vehicles
RE: Can I just upgrade to 5200 pound axles ?

On a Titanium that I had with 5200 lb suspension/axles I found that the only difference to a 6000 lb suspension was the spring pack. The hubs, brakes and bearings were the same for both axle ratings. Generally, 5000/5200 and 6000 lb axles have a 6 stud wheel and 7000/8000 lb axles have 8 lug wheels. It sounds to me like your trailer springs were down graded from 5200 to 4400 lbs just like my Titanium was downgraded from 6000 to 5200 lbs. They save a little weight and can put cheaper, smaller tires on the trailers. It's like my current trailer with 7000lb axle rating. The only difference to make them 8000lb is the tires. It came with LT235/75/16 E load range tires and all it would have taken to get an 8000lb rating would have been to use 'G' load rated tires. There is a big cost difference between 'E' and 'G' rated tires. It really comes down to what you expect to need for the weight you will be running with. Assuming the frame is adequate for that weight, pick a suspension package that will comfortably carry and stop your unit.
roy67ss 11/30/16 10:01pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Ford F250 Super Duty

Seeker, My 2001.5 Dodge 2-series 4x4 Cummins has a GVWR of 8800 pounds. I too have a load rating of around 2500 pounds of cargo.I have seen the ebb and flow of ratings based on a number of factors. The most important factor is/are the tires. Next is the absolute rating of the axles. Mine is 6000 pounds (or more according to Dana) front; and 11,000 pounds rear. The lawyers have their say too and bid Chrysler Corp. to downgrade the axles for safety reasons. Best not to be on the overloaded front when confronting litigation. So, Corp. rates the front axle at 5200 pounds and 7500 pounds rear with no other considerations. What considerations? My '01 RAM came with the Camper Package which added upper secondaries (aka: upper overloads) which come into play when the camper is loaded on. There is no consideration of the added payload these afford the GVWR of the truck. These are the self same secondaries that appear on the RAM 3500 duallie of the era, an era before SRW one-ton trucks, so I have in essence a 2001 SRW one ton. How can I say that? I checked all the parts differences between the frame, suspension, brakes, axles and bearings, and found only the hub extensions fore and aft, and two more, larger backspaced wheels are the difference. The rear axle on a DRW truck is wider than a SRW truck to take in to account the 7.5" backspacing of the duals facing inward. If you have the Sterling rear axle and assuming a Dana front axle you really have a lot to work with. Just beware there were two different versions of the Sterling, one having a higher GAWR. I have worked with mine and added 2 more upper secondary leaves, Stable Loads, and one more helper spring down in the pack giving me an 8-leaf rear spring pack in a sort of 3-stage system that gives a slightly worse than stock empty ride and a solid ride as the weight is added. I'm comfortable with what I've come up with in my build. So, you can and will make up your own mind as to whether your truck is build-worthy, by adding suspension help, higher load rated tires, and maybe even higher load rated wheels. I just went through the wheel upgrade by dumping my cast aluminum wheels (with a 3600 load rating) to Stockton Wheel Steelies which have a stupid high load rating on the rear axle under the portion of the truck that takes 90% of the added weight of the camper. It depends too on what year truck you have; whether it's gas or diesel, 4WD. The 99-02 Ford diesels are very sought after and considered by many to be the pinnacle of the International Harvester V-8 oil burners. If you have a gas engine, you will be forever afoul of gas stations to keep the tank full. Give us the info and you will get a bunch of semi-knowlegeablel replies from those own the same truck you do. jefe
jefe 4x4 10/26/16 11:28am Truck Campers
RE: Dexter 8k axles, nev-r-lube bearings

Just a question - when is the last time you pulled the front hubs and repacked the wheel bearings in your car? Sealed bearings replaced the "pull and pack" bearings many years ago in most automotive applications. Rusty Because people are driving/riding in cars and trucks, the bearings are probably 10x better quality than those used in towables. =Highly= unlikely that an RV bearing failure would lead to an injury or death; not so with motor vehicles. Lyle
laknox 10/20/16 02:19pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter 8k axles, nev-r-lube bearings

Just a question - when is the last time you pulled the front hubs and repacked the wheel bearings in your car? Sealed bearings replaced the "pull and pack" bearings many years ago in most automotive applications. Rusty
RustyJC 10/20/16 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Hot wheel rims,hub AND smell from axle

Even on new trailers, hand pack the wheel bearings and check brake adjustment.
coolbreeze01 10/17/16 11:53am Towing
RE: solution to lug nut covers?

Would not pack wheel bearings with 5000 mikes on them.
Weldon 09/26/16 12:22pm Towing
RE: solution to lug nut covers?

5000 miles is really pushing it with the wheel bearings. Recommended interval for pulling them down and repacking is 3000 miles or annually as far as I know. Should be in the owner's manual. You can stretch that if you trust the E-Z lube axles to not wreck the dust seal and fill your brake drum with grease. 3000mi interval for re packing trailer bearings? Lol. Musnt have anything better to do...... Do you re pack them half way through a vacation in the campground? Quality grease and proper bearing packing on a hub that is in good condition, that interval is at least 5x that maybe more. And get some bearing buddies and extend that to 10x or more. I took apart the hubs on my old snomachine trailer after almost 10 years of dragging it around the country, loaded. Idk, maybe 20kmi, probably more. A lot of 80 mph down the freeway at -10 or +100deg too. Was going to just replace the hearings before overloading it and taking off to AK for a couple more years of torture. After cleaning up the bearings, I promptly repacked and re installed them. Virtually no wear compare to new. I do like/use bearing buddy's though. You can blow out the seal in back with them, but that just tells you you're over full and a little mess. Doesn't mess up the seal. Best to add a little grease right after a hard run when the grease inside is soft and moves around easy.
Grit dog 09/26/16 10:53am Towing
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