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RE: solution to lug nut covers?

Would not pack wheel bearings with 5000 mikes on them.
Weldon 09/26/16 12:22pm Towing
RE: solution to lug nut covers?

5000 miles is really pushing it with the wheel bearings. Recommended interval for pulling them down and repacking is 3000 miles or annually as far as I know. Should be in the owner's manual. You can stretch that if you trust the E-Z lube axles to not wreck the dust seal and fill your brake drum with grease. 3000mi interval for re packing trailer bearings? Lol. Musnt have anything better to do...... Do you re pack them half way through a vacation in the campground? Quality grease and proper bearing packing on a hub that is in good condition, that interval is at least 5x that maybe more. And get some bearing buddies and extend that to 10x or more. I took apart the hubs on my old snomachine trailer after almost 10 years of dragging it around the country, loaded. Idk, maybe 20kmi, probably more. A lot of 80 mph down the freeway at -10 or +100deg too. Was going to just replace the hearings before overloading it and taking off to AK for a couple more years of torture. After cleaning up the bearings, I promptly repacked and re installed them. Virtually no wear compare to new. I do like/use bearing buddy's though. You can blow out the seal in back with them, but that just tells you you're over full and a little mess. Doesn't mess up the seal. Best to add a little grease right after a hard run when the grease inside is soft and moves around easy.
Grit dog 09/26/16 10:53am Towing
RE: How I remove AND install axle grease caps

Mex, Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?Packing the area between the two bearings will do a couple of things: It prevents less rust to form in the hub. It will allow grease to melt/flow that is not inside the bearing. As the bearings warm up grease flows within the bearing. It also heats that adjacent grease that you packed into the hub middle. That heated grease just outside the bearing now can flow to the bearing surfaces. If you absolutely filled the entire hub, you may see that your dustcaps are moving. I'd pull them now and then to remove the grease inside.
westend 09/18/16 02:44am Tech Issues
RE: How I remove AND install axle grease caps

Mex, Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?
ernie1 09/17/16 10:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Real weights of an arctic Fox 1140?

For sure, never mind the F450 has larger brakes, larger rear axle, 19.5's....but by all means, the F350 is a better hauler. Amazing! I know when I was shopping for my truck in 2013 I was a bit puzzled by the F450. As you noted, bigger components so you would figure it would haul better. Only thing I could figure was GVWR is determined by the weakest component. That suggested, as noted i. The other thread, maybe the spring pack wasn't any stronger and the weakest link. Alternatively maybe the frame on the pickups isn't really suited for more than 14,000 pounds. It is interesting the higher rated F450 chassis / cab model uses a different frame. Really liked the turning radius though. You're correct, the 450 pickups are like a 3500hd, or 4500 light. And it is possible the frame is the lowest common denominator, but if it was then the 3500s wouldn't have more payload as most of the addl weight in a 4500 pickup (not C&C) is unsprung weight. (Bigger wheels, axle and brakes). Also, as a ME, you know design considerations are surrounded by liability. And with that, a reputable smart company is going to put a greater factor of safety into the components that, if they fail, would cause catastrophic failure and great liability problems. To that point, in years, I've seen only 1 pic of a frame failure, was a ford and on this website, but that's not pertinent. I've not heard of any HD pickup splitting a rim and tossing the wheel off the truck resulting in a fiery crash, although I've read of a couple cracked rims. But I've personally had, seen or replaced several broken leaf springs over the years. I've also seen MANY trucks used daily at so far over their rated gvws that they'd make Ralph Nader roll over in his grave. I've driven mostly F150 company trucks for about 20 years now and my typical load on a few of them was a large cross box and 2 side boxes with as many tools as I could stuff in them. Then what little bed space was left usually was full of stuff that was not light! All that on c clip axles and sometimes 15" tires, 40kmi a year, 90mph across the desert almost daily in 0 degree or 110degree weather. Popped a couple tires and a leaf spring occasionally. Never fell a part though. Of all those in personal experience, just one truck literally was destroyed to the point that a catastrophic failure was certainly imminent. It was a brand new 1989 Dodge 350 dually. 360 gasser that I installed a dump bed on for the landscape nursery I turned wrenches for in high school. In the first 30?kmi this truck had bent both rear axle shafts, bent one side axle tube, couple sets of outer bearings. Axle was junked and replaced when the tube bent. New brakes and or rotors every other month it seemed and the frame cracked over the rear axle on both sides at different times. Had a shop weld and plate the first one. Copied their work and did it myself on the other side when it went. Reason for all this, was my boss was dumb and didn't understand anything we are talking about here. It was the first dually dump we had, save for some old LN 700s and C60s that weren't really road worthy. And this truck was put thru he!! Best load I seen, it came back one night, had the NH 785 skid steer in the dump bed! Along with 2 or 4 36" root ball trees. Still dunno how they got them up there AFTER the skid steer was loaded. Dually tandem tag trailer, gvw Unknown, with 2 shredded flat tires and 12-16? Of the same size trees, like 25 footers with 3' dia root balls! That was the immediate cause of the first frame crack. After that, I don't think twice about putting 4000lbs in the back of a 3/4 ton truck with a 10klb rear axle and feel safe doing it. I bet that little dually was grossing well over 40000gcvw that day. Oh and it towed that big tag trailer everywhere on the OE Dodgge 2" square receiver hitch. Another reason I don't get as wound up with a little hitch extension here or there like that thread.
Grit dog 08/25/16 11:40am Truck Campers
Brake adjustment questions in the real world

In the real world...Questions about adjusting your brakes on towables (trailers and 5th wheels) How often do you do it? Do you adjust your brakes and call it good, or do you pull your hubs to check for grease and re-pack bearings and break out volt meter to check voltage? (Just trying to see what other peoples routine is. I usually don't do anything until I feel some lose of stopping power or a wheel shows more temp heat than others.) What's your routine?
path1 08/17/16 11:59am Beginning RVing
RE: Need help asap in AZ

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/Avi05/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbpn8ivz2.jpeg width=800So did you lose a wheel bearing? I assume that's what caused the failure. yup. Lost the wheel and drum. \ So, what really happened, the axle nut came off, right?? Did the bad bearing cause play/stress on the cotter pin and nut causing the cotter pin to fail and then the nut backed off? Did the axle get ruined? If it didn't, why not? No, the axle nut and cotter pin were still there. The bearing failed and everything just came off. I got super lucky no other damage was done. common problem on boat trailers back in the day. Makes me want to check/pack my wheel bearings, been a bit too long. you should do it. Going to replace all my bearings soon.
eDUBz 08/17/16 10:14am Toy Haulers
RE: Need help asap in AZ

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/Avi05/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbpn8ivz2.jpeg width=800So did you lose a wheel bearing? I assume that's what caused the failure. yup. Lost the wheel and drum. \ So, what really happened, the axle nut came off, right?? Did the bad bearing cause play/stress on the cotter pin and nut causing the cotter pin to fail and then the nut backed off? Did the axle get ruined? If it didn't, why not? No, the axle nut and cotter pin were still there. The bearing failed and everything just came off. I got super lucky no other damage was done. common problem on boat trailers back in the day. Makes me want to check/pack my wheel bearings, been a bit too long.
nayther 08/17/16 09:26am Toy Haulers
RE: Advice on cross country trip

Be very careful not to just take everything and anything "just because". Not knowing what kind of RV you have, everything has weight and its easy to over pack and accumulate too much weight unintentionally. What we have done for longer trips is we pre-make some dinners at home and freeze them. Its so nice and easy to just take something out of the freezer and put it in a skillet and have an easy dinner after a day of driving. The dollar store has aluminum trays with covers or just vacuum pack them with your Food Saver. I also went online and ordered the travel guides from all the states we were going to go through. Good resource to have on hand as they have regional maps in them with attractions you might never have considered to visit before. Do any vehicle maintenance you may need, including the trailer wheel bearings, brake adjustment, to an oil change. Bring lots of patience and be flexible. Don't try to drive too much/long in a single day.
ken56 08/01/16 03:37pm RV Lifestyle
RE: First TT

At the age of 65, I just purchased our first travel trailer after years of tent camping with the kids. It's an immaculately maintained 1997 Kit Companion 22ST. I've been keeping the internet sales guys at Campers World busy buying the things I discovered I needed before our first trip. Being 20 years old, the owners manual is gone and I'm not having any luck finding one. I'm considering installing Bearing Buddy's on the trailer. Would you guys recommend this and if so, does anyone know the hub bore size on this trailer? Thanks in advance for any comments, and I look forward to participating on this forum. I wouldn't recommend bearing buddies. They tend to blow seals and allow grease into brake drum and then your brakes don't work. They work better in boat trailer environments which is the primary use. A better way is to manually pack your wheel bearings and check/adjust your brakes. You can do this yourself if you are mechanically inclined or pay a trusted shop. Many folks recommend packing wheel bearings annually, but I'm not one of them (unless you put more than say 5-10,000 miles per year on). Back when cars had wheel bearings that needed packing, I never did it unless I needed to pull brake drum/rotor for some reason (usually to replace brake pads/shoes). I would expect wheel bearings properly done would last at least 25,000 miles. It really depends on how many miles you go each year and if you are in the mountains or lots of hills where you want to check and adjust your trailer brakes. 20 year old trailer, you will want to make sure they are properly packed (and inspect bearings for damage/rust if it was sitting very long). Hope you have many years of camping, enjoy the adventure (my Dad is 86 and still going out).
hawkeye-08 07/25/16 03:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Wheel Bearings

How often do you all pack your wheel bearings? My husband is doing it every trip. This to me seems really excessive for a 120 mile drive. Every trip?! Boy, "excessive" is an understatement! :W Manufacturers usually suggest every year, every 12,000 miles but every two years has always worked for me. Every trip? Really? :h
SoundGuy 07/19/16 03:03pm Tech Issues
Wheel Bearings

How often do you all pack your wheel bearings? My husband is doing it every trip. This to me seems really excessive for a 120 mile drive. I could understanding if the trailer were a boat trailer and being immersed multiple times in a week. Thanks!
HGL 07/19/16 01:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Lippert axles-how to determine if you have a Super Lube hub

My TT is going on six years old. I do not know about the previous owner but I have put over 20,000 miles on it in the three years I have owned it. Until I decided to replace the brakes it was lubed though the EZ lube zerks once a year. When I did pulled the drums the bearings were well lubed. I cleaned, hand packed, then EZ lubed them. I like the idea of having the axles shaft filled with grease. I have been told you can over pack them but the manual said to spin when wheel and watch for grease at the front bearing while pumping. It worked for me.
rbpru 07/01/16 10:28pm Travel Trailers
RE: EZ lube hubs

The easy-lube axels were intended for boat trailers that have the bearings submerged in water when launching a boat. The RV industry use them as a marketing ploy to make people think there is an easy way to lube bearings. The sad reality is that RV owners should forget the easy lube **** and pack the bearing the old fashion way at recommended intervals. Also if one has the spring like nut retainers they should be discarded and replaced with the tang type nut retainers. The springy ones do not hold the nut well and could cause the bearing to loosen and thus cause pre-mature failure. So if I understand what you are trying to make us believe is,, My EZ Lube axles,,, On my Travel Trailer,,, were designed for boats? So,, if I submerge my axle launching my boat,, and I use the EZ Lube to flush out OLD Contaminated grease because of Submersion,, That won't work for my travel trailer???? Why? Because I don't launch my trailer?? If it pushes new grease in and replaces old how is that bad?? Maybe I have a weird view of how the system works,, but for the last four years it has worked for me just as the system was designed! Given the amount of traveling I do with my travel trailer, I am of the thought that I should only have to remove my bearings when i replace my brakes! If I checked my bearings and brakes at time of purchase, then hand pack and adjust my bearings,, why wouldn't i just be able to add new grease, remove old as its pushed out, and let that work for five years (given my overall travel distance) before checking bearings and brakes?? If it works fine why keep messing with it?? What is really telling you is that they should be repack them just like they do your auto at the car repair place. With the ezlube ones there is no way of telling how much grease is in there so there is no way of telling how much to pump in. When you brake the rear seal then you have grease in places it doesn't belong. My RV repair place repacks them by hand(bearing packing machine) for that same reason I'm a low-mile tower and I've hand-greased my EZ Lube axles several times over the years. Jack up the wheel, spin it while pumping, listen for the popping noise of air being forced out the rear seal, stop pumping. When I did have my bearings done after 10 years, there was =zero= grease outside the seals and the bearings and seals looked to be in excellent condition; none of the seals were backed out of position, either. I replaced them all anyway. YMMV... Lyle
laknox 06/28/16 03:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Repack bearings

You'll get a million different recommendations here. I bought my rig new in March 2011 and have about 12k miles on it. I just had mine in the axle shop for the first time last month. The mechanic told me the bearings were in perfect shape with plenty of grease. All he did was re-pack them and put everything back together. I greased mine periodically using the easy lube feature by jacking the wheel off the ground and added 3-4 squirt of grease while I rotated the tires. Having said all that your rig could be different, more miles, different bearing manufacturer, more strenuous use etc. so it's really hard to tell. One thing I always did was to keep an eye on hub temps when I made fuel stops. High hub temps can be an early warning to failure. It's all about how much faith you have in your rig and how much risk you are willing to take.
allen8106 05/26/16 01:34pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Advised not to repack bearings???

Like a toilet dumping into a capped 4" sewer. On the large side of the inner bearing a full lip seal rests. It seals against the spindle. Force grease THROUGH the bearing? Shirley You Jest...the process can replace grease in the space between bearings. While hoping the pressure build-up isn't great enough to compromise the rear seal. Whomever claims such a mechanism can rid even the outer bearing of all contaminants is either a dreamer or a con artist. Ever do a wheel pack? I washed the bearings in clean solvent then air dried them without spinning them. Then I flushed the bearing with brake clean and felt GRIT on my hands from the flushed brake clean. Invariably. When no more grit emerged, I would then pack the bearing in a cone wheel bearing packer. Filling the center of the hub is about the stupidest idea I have ever heard of. grease does not move and if it does it will be by centrifugal force to the outside of the hub. If grease moves it is defective junk The idea of filling the center of the hub came from hectorite clay based grease which bled (wicked) base oil through a trail of clay to the bearing. Thick don't mean squat...its the oil that does the work just as it does in oil filled Stemco diesel truck front axle and trailer bearings. When clay based grease was finished wicking, it left modeling clay stiff residue which had to be knocked out of the hub cavity. Early Delco ball bearing grease was clay based, When packed correctly the bearings lasted much longer than prelubed sealed bearings. That's history. Clay base greases are of the era of tar-top batteries. Today's greases have to be inserted within the bearing AND STAY THERE. When the hub cover protected (sealed) the outer hub the rawhide seals the inner bearing. A suitable grease REPELS water. It rejects it utterly and cannot meld with water ever. If water manages to penetrate the hub cap, it wont stay there for long and even if it does, it cannot get anywhere near metal. A good grease can have a half-pint of water in the hub, and it laughs it off. There's no foaming, no mixing, the water stays as a bubble forever kept away from metal. Usually it leaks out of the bearing hub through ten micron size metal irregularities. Using suitable grease foreign matter cannot pass the hub cap. Never. Water finds it's way out but grit and dust is infinitely larger. So foreign contamination is what, 90,000 times less than it would be with a compromised hub seal? New wave metal complex greases do not migrate. They do not wick base oil. If the grease is not present on and within the rollers and cage it never will be. You can place 10,000 tons of grease next to a bearings and it will contribute absolutely nothing. So externally lubed bearings rely on grease displacement to attempt to purge contaminants out of the outer bearing? Contaminants that would not be there in the first place if the hub itself had a proper seal? The only philosophy that makes sense here would be the engineers are convinced garbage grade grease will (inevitably) be used. Total snot that DOES homogenize with water, does form a muck and does lose a majority of its lubricity. 1940's and 50's thinking and technology that is now utterly and totally made obsolete when super greases are used. Excellent grease and excellent sealing is light-years more secure than external lubing to purge grease. When not if water enters the hub and homogenizes with garbage grease how does the inner bearing fare..............hmmmmmmm? When I was going to college, Shell Oil Co. bragged about their 4-Ball-wear-test which is an excellent test as is still being used. We went to school and learning how grease worked. In 1978 when Lubrication Engineers revolutionized grease with it's Almagard and gear oil with Amasol, I stood amazed. Old conventions had to be tossed aside. Boat trailer manufacturers dare not seal their assemblies with closed hubs because sure as hell a knucklehead will use 39 cent grease. Externally greaseable RV hubs are exactly the same way. Sealing meant failure because too many owners are too cheap or too lazy to do-things-right and stick with garbage lubricants. Actually shops are to blame "Me? Spend five hundred dollars for a quarter-drum of grease when Snot-O-Rama has quarter drums for $79.95 ???" Keep contaminants OUT OF bearings and use grease that stays put and reduces friction. Lest you think I am a shill for Lubrication Engineers, CHEVRON has a grease called RED GREASE which is a clone to Almagard. There is JP-7, there is a blue goo, available from home dealer garages that is pure garbage even worse than parts-store grease. There are only two consumer available greases on the face of the earth that actually do what grease should do. It's a free world. Do what you gotta do, but don't complain about it. The answer is in my response, but I wonder about the percentage of people who read this then sneer at it. Meanwhile I'm done responding to grease issues. I did my job and said what I needed to say.
MEXICOWANDERER 05/17/16 03:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Newbie...what are typical annual maintenance costs?

Hardly anything on a yearly basis. Less than my vehicles. I may buy a tube of caulk to touch up some caulking. But other than that there's really not much money spent on maintenance on a yearly basis. Some will wash their roofs with a cleaning product, but that's relatively cheap. The biggest expenses are going to be all the stuff you think you need for the trailer that you'll buy. I'm always fiddling around with something so I'm spending money on some project. Most aren't do or die projects. More like upgrades to make things easier or better. You'll need tires every 4-5 years. Re-pack the bearings every two years for me. If you have someone do it then that would be $100-200.00. I do mine so it's just the cost of seals and grease. $20.00 or so. On the other hand if you're the type of owner that takes their RV into the dealer every year for a checkup and winterizing then I'm not sure what the yearly costs would be since I've never done that. I know winterizing runs around $50-75.00 depending on dealer. It's good to adjust the brakes yearly too. ($$?) Not sure about the inspection costs. A call to any dealer would give you an estimate. Best thing to do to save money is to learn how to maintain it on your own. Most of the maintenance besides re-packing wheel bearings is fairly simple and easy. Usually all the instructions you need can be found by Googling it and finding a YouTube video. There are some really good instructional videos done by dealerships or RV suppliers that will help you.
goducks10 04/29/16 09:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Opinion Needed - Repacking Wheel Bearings AND found THIS

from what your seeing,and telling ,it was cleaned up, and fitted with the best bearings out there, and it was good to go when you took it off, ME,I,d pack it and watch the temp on it at each stop. I,d go on the trip. from your words it sounds safe. Sort of. I like the timken usa bearings for sure. especially since I just bought a set of nationals from advance and were chinas. Look at the pics though since I just got them to post. If this "clean up" is normal on trailer axles, I will just put the bearings back in and rock-n-roll. I was just not sure if this type of wear was normal for wheel bearing spindles. This is my first trailer.
kyle86 04/21/16 11:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Install new tires/grease bearings by self?

In general the thought is to have the bearings greased once a year or 5000 miles. Some like to disassemble the wheel and axel so they can inspect and hand pack the bearings. Others are content to use the EZ lube grease fitting and lube the assembled on the TT. If you go to an RV dealer they will use the EZ lube feature. Quite frankly, if you do not know how to hand lube a bearing or what to look for in a worn bearing, there does not seem to be much reason to take it apart. I just finished hand packing the bearings on my lawn tractor, not hard once it is jacked up but it is messy. It is similar with the brakes, most TTs are the older style drum and shoe with an electrical actuator. Unless you are familiar with inspecting and adjusting them it is easiest to let the local shop do it. I did the brakes on my pop-up but left the TT brakes for the folks with the heavy tools for jacking up the TT. None of this is rocket sience and some feel more comfortable if they do it themselves. Others would rather leave it to the pros. Labor rates in our area are $125.00 and hour or more so I tend to do the little guys myself.
rbpru 04/19/16 12:08pm Travel Trailers
RE: Install new tires/grease bearings by self?

Growing up around an auto service shop in an era when front wheel bearings were not "permanently lubricated" I learned to pack bearings before I was nine years old, so I would probably do that job myself. It can be messy, but I still have a tub of bearing grease in my garage, and can't remember not having the grease any time in the past forty years. Packing grease is not the problem. The problem is learning to get the hub adjusted right when you reassemble it. Every place I've bought tires included installation and "lifetime" balancing in the tire price, or at worst showed it as an added charge of $10-15. When tires still had tubes in them, and we never much bothered about wheel balancing, I changed many car-sized tires with a mallet and 2-3 tire irons, up to an hour's labor per tire. I quit doing that when the world switched to tubeless tires, because the physical effort became huge if you didn't have the power equipment for the job. There are guys out there doing road service for truck tires that still change out tires the hard way, but at my age I won't be doing it, I'll pay the tire shop. FWIW, when I took six light truck tires in to have valve stems replaced with metal, involving unmounting the tire on one side of the wheel, my tire shop did the job for $10 a wheel, including cost of the new stems, and removing/installing on my motorhome sitting out in the driveway. The work is hard enough it is worth paying to have it done. Don't make your husband try to do it. Buy the tires online? My local dealer buys the tires online, sells them to me at the price the online supplier would charge me retail.
tatest 04/18/16 03:34am Travel Trailers
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