RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 45 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Greasing bearings question

Thoroughly clean the bearings when inspecting your brakes. Hand pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease and install a new grease seal. Smack that grease fitting with a hammer so that it can never be used,
Lynnmor 06/26/17 05:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Greasing bearings question

I just did mine not long ago... I jacked up one at a time, pumped the grease while turning the tires... I was surprised that it took about a tube per wheel That would surprise me too, usually it takes about a golf ball size gob for each bearing. The difference is that when you hand pack the bearings individually you don't have to fill the void around the axle between the inner and outer bearings like is required using the grease gun method using the zerk. You have to fill that void before the grease will be expelled out from around the outer bearing and all that grease in the void is doing nothing to provide any lubrication to either bearing. A tube might be a little too much, but around 2/3's of a tube would not surprise me at all and why I no longer recommend using the grease gun/zerk method when that is an option. Hand packing IMO is much better. Larry
LarryJM 06/26/17 05:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tire separated from axle

Glad everyone was ok. Old Bisquit said the possibilities I would bet on. I lost a wheel on my 5er 6 years ago. It was the trip after I had a service guy pack bearings and adjust brakes. He stepped up and paid for the repairs. Good luck with everything.
Bionic Man 06/21/17 09:22pm Toy Haulers
RE: Bought an HTT, now what?

Re-pack the wheel bearings and inspect the brakes, especially the wiring.
theoldwizard1 06/19/17 08:52pm Hybrid Travel Trailers
RE: Dexter EZ Lube ISSUE RESLOVED bad gun

To all of you still using the EZ Lube feature on your axle be aware of the issues with this system!! If you have been pumping away with your grease gun and nothing comes out there is the possibility that the rear seal has blown out and your are lubing your brake shoes and magnet assemblies. I highly recommend you pull your brake drums and inspect for grease on the brakes~!!! There are significant amounts of opinions on using the easy lube system but most experienced Rv'ers will only hand pack the bearings. Easy Lube is wonderful for boat trailers that get submerged in water but useless on any trailer with brake actuators operating on the highway. Do a search on this and other forums about this issue and you will find an overwhelming number of people have had major issues with grease on their brakes. Look at the Grand Design owners forum and see the issue with Lippert and the massive replacement of complete brake assemblies due to grease getting past the seal. Uh, you may have read some posts on the GD forum but clearly not all of them because you're missing THE most important fact. The problems with leaking axle seals from the OEM have ZERO...I state again...ZERO relation to the EZlube system. The EZlube zerks are not touched at the factory! Do a test the day you opt to repack your bearings manually. Before you pull the hubs, try to force grease into the hub via EZlube zerk as fast and hard as you can. Try to blow that seal. You wont. It takes significant pressure to blow out an axle seal with a grease gun. And if it leaks any grease, well then it would leak (or is leaking) under normal use and its good you are replacing it! I did not mean to place blame on the Grand Design problem with EZ Lube system. It was only to show what can happen when you get grease on your brakes, however that may happen. Grand Design/Lippert problem was caused by bad thin grease with low dropping point, bad seals or the process of assembly.......who knows for sure, they have claimed many theories. I had the EZ lube system on my 2nd 5th wheel(Crossroads Cruiser) which I had purchased from an individual after he owned it two years. His statement to me was "I greased the bearings several times using a grease gun, never pulled the drums." My inspection, after realizing I had very little braking ability, was the brake clusters (shoes and magnets) were completely saturated with grease!!!
Likes to tow 06/04/17 04:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Repacking the wheel bearings

I look at it this way, yes and I will tell you why. building a TT is not rocket science. so many things on a TT that can go wrong in a short period of time and or use. if they build a TT that is so apt to have something go wrong and if they build them so nilly nelly what makes you think they packed the wheel bearings right the the first time when they put them together. in short I pack mine just as soon as I get the new TT home. I don't trust the way they build TT's nowadays
old guy 05/10/17 09:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Deka DC31DT battery? Deep Cycle?

...while the OP has been agonizing over which batteries to purchase he hasn't said a word about what charger he's using to maintain those batteries, which is critical if he expects to maximize the life of any battery he may invest in, particularly if he opts for AGMs or Gels instead of flooded Well, been trying to work that out. Here is where the choice is at the moment, and key points. 1. Flooded batteries. Different chemistry and such would require other charging and higher voltages, which could affect my unregulated LEDs. 2. I have the WF-8955AN 3 stage charger at 55amps (load and charger) 3. We will be out up to a week at a time without shore power, but will have generator use a few hours a day. 4. We have Xantrex 1800 PSW inverter on its way to run 120v lighting and laptop power supplies, and likely try running microwave a few mins each am during quiet hours. 5. Strongly considering Group 31 12v deep cycle batteries, expecting to have 2, possibly 3 in parallel. 6. We will plug in the camper for an extended period when we return from the week+ trip, then a day or two at a time while on the 2-4 week travel trip to different places this summer. 7. I DO have several large chargers that can be used when we return home. Some are multistage, some are not. Most are not easily portable, but I have a 3 stage dual battery charger in the boat that may come out...not all worked out yet. 8. As inverter is direct wired and we move the converter to its own breaker and add NC relay to prevent it from being powered on inverter, and we likely add 30amp transfer switch (the built in ATS on the inverter is only 15amp, probably have to just skip it) to jump between shore/generator power and inverter power.....leads to.... 9. A starter solar system could show up by the end of season or before next season, with appropriate charging upgrade that will top off the batteries. As the system "matures" we are striving to take steps that meet our needs and expected needs without too much waste or replacements necessary. 10. We are adding 12v sockets and USB ports to natively power and charge devices without the inverter 11. I will be moving the cell wireless repeater/booster to this new camper and strategically placing the Mobley that just arrived today to allow my daughter to take her advanced classes this summer while traveling. 12. We *may* provide for the ability to isolate one battery as emergency use for the newly installed electric tongue jack and both 12v slides. 13. I'll be building extra battery mounts for 3-4 batteries. 14. The inverter will be mounted inside the front storage area on the soon to be added pegboard to line the full width compartment, while I pull the LCD monitoring panel, wire in RJ45/RJ11 (not sure which it has) to remote the panel to as of yet undetermined location to monitor, but provide the ability to cover it to shade at night in the master bedroom. 15. Replace the ceiling vent fan in the bathroom with a Fantastic Fan, after washing and resealing the entire roof, slides, sides, etc. 16. Replace the awning 17. Devise rear storage container rack setup and try to fit in all our gear 18. Work out a bike rack, possibly with a front hitch on the Excursion 19. Wash and wax the camper ( :) ) 20. Paint any faded plastic, replace all window weatherstripping while cleaning and dry lubing the contact points and sliding channels 21. Finish replacing the cooling unit on the fridge and reinstall it, while making new air chimney/draft above the fridge and allowing for a new storage area above it. 22. Add LED lighting to underside near wheels and stabilizing jacks for night time setup 23. Add backup cameras to Excursion and to the camper 24. Add expansion tank to water system 25. Add quick disconnect to propane system for our Wave 3 propane heater 26. Add light switches inside the door and lights to steps 27. Add extended grab handle to steps/door 28. Replace stove hood vent fan with quiet and efficient fan 29. Possibly add fan to main bedroom vent 30. Add vent hoods (like MaxAir or similar) for powerless ventilation 31. Flush, test, and sanitize water and waste systems. 32. Pull all wheel hubs to inspect and pack bearings and inspect brakes 33. Shampoo all carpeting and wipe down entire camper walls, ceiling, cabinets, etc 34. Figure out where to pack everything we take with us 35. Do service and maintenance on our hybrid to get it ready to sale. ...and probably lots more, LOL So you can see that batteries and power are very important, but lots of other moving pieces as well. If I miss a few things or make some mistakes, please point them out, but don't get too frustrated with me- lots of things happening and being planned :W I guess this is all part of coming from a camper we spent years modding and setting up just the way we wanted and then starting over with another camper. Exciting for sure! (but also a lot of work) Keep the tips and info coming. They are HUGE helps :) Thanks!
DiskDoctr 04/19/17 02:07pm Tech Issues
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.I call FUD. I just pulled mine at 10 years and maybe 35,000 miles... grease was still just fine on the cheepo bearings and all looked good. X2! I have packed many a wheel bearing in my life, and never pulled one later to find the grease the "Melted" and ran to the center. I have been packing bearings for over 50 years. Where do you come up with this stuff, marketing is great these days.
rhagfo 04/12/17 10:23pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

Trying to keep this short: FW-2007 Coachmen 321T-Purchased new in 2007-Full Time Workamping Jan. 2016-Have new wheels and tires put on 5th wheel. Feb. 2016-Take FW to have safety inspection performed for registration renewal. Late Feb 2016-Get Fiver ready for travel to new job in Florida. Check tires, lugs, lights, etc., Fiver is ready to travel from Texas to Florida. Fiver is in RV Park so I left it hooked up to the power and water. Went to my S&B for few days to pick up DW to travel with me. Travel day-hook up to TV. Check lights, tire pressure, etc. Off we go. 25 miles later the front street side wheel assembly comes off at 55 mph. Get stopped on highway shoulder. Walk back and recover wheel assembly. Look at hub- two sheared off studs. Limp to exit, find large open area to park. "Hey I can fix this, no problem." Drive to small town- hit every autoparts place in 20 miles. Finally find enough of the correct size studs. BTW- found lugs nuts loose on Left rear wheel also. Curb side wheels are tight. No movement at all. Just like all four were six days before when checked. Change studs, install hubs and wheels. Good to go right? Nope, less than 1 mile later I see in mirror wheel angle looks odd. Stop, check lugs, both left side wheels have loose lugs. Huh? Tighten the **** out of them again-get 1/4 mile and see wobble. I limped to truck stop 5 miles away, stopping every 1/4 mile or less to tighten up. Problem is studs are starting to shear off. Make it to truck stop. I have two studs left on front left wheel and four on rear left wheel. (Six Lug Hubs) Call for road side assistance (AAA RV Plus)-No help at all. Locate Mobile Mechanic-He was able to get to me 8 hrs later- he was out on call. I had told him on phone that according to my build papers glued in the kitchen cabinet that the RV had "Dexter 5,200 lb axles" Found out later that night while under the RV that I have Lippert axles. Read directly off the axle. After all night at truck stop Mobile Mechanic has installed new hubs and bearings. Off I go to Florida, checking my lug nuts every 25 miles for the first 100 and then at every single stop. All is good. Fast forward to Nov 2016-Make RV road ready for trip back to Texas from FL. Trip home uneventful from the RV stand point. While home I fix up a few things on the RV and install two new A/C units. All is good. Jan 2017-Make ready for road trip to AZ. Do all of the checks, etc. Lugs are good. (BTW-from previous drama I am now fixated on lug nuts) Off to AZ with DW traveling with me. Five miles from house I see smoke coming off left rear wheel. Whip into Pharmacy parking lot. Dragging brake shoe maybe? Nope- I see at least one inch of brake pad showing between flange/shield and hub. OK, call Mobile Mech. Mech says I need new axle and it will take 3 weeks to get parts, 2K to tow to their facility, yada, yada, yada.. I pay mechanic for his call out. I jack up axle, remove tire and wheel w/o removing lug nuts. I see spindle/castle nut/three plate washers/inner bearing/grease seal. No outer bearing. Under discolored grease I find what is left of outer bearing. Just a small band of metal. I locate parts, and for some reason decided to buy a small hub puller. Glad I did. I purchase three complete sets of hubs, bearings, seals, nuts, finger washers, etc. Glad I did. Go to remove nut-dang it- the threads are partially stripped and the nut is only three threads from the start point. I now know why I have extra plate washers here and no finger washer.(Previous MM jury rigged it? Maybe?) Cannot get nut to move with fingers. I am glad I keep a 3 ft long crescent on the truck. With lots of grease and care I back off the nut without further damaging threads. Put new hub/bearings, etc on left side wheels/axles. Do a drive check for 50 miles stopping every 10 or so. I make my trip to AZ. I will not use those zerc fittings for greasing my bearings. I will hand pack as I did when I rebuilt it in that parking lot. My world is ok now.
abom2 04/12/17 07:22am Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

We had our Cardinal for 11 years and 50 or 60K miles. Every two to three years I removed each wheel and hub to inspect and service the bearings. When we sold it, it still have the original bearings and races. Blindly just pumping grease in is a big mistake! I also jack up each wheel and spin and wiggle looking for problems before the long trip between Arizona and Washington. This is going to be easier with the new trailer with 6 point jacks. Chris X2! Blindly pumping grease in to FILL to cavity is the fastest way to grease the brake shoes!! Had pack the bearing, place a thick coating of grease on the race and that is all you need. I've always hand packed my bearings and have never had a bearing problem. Touch wood. Except of course for Lippert axles which come from the factory with grease leaking all over the brakes. Yep, bearings need to be cleaned and inspected and repacked every couple years
rhagfo 04/11/17 11:46am Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

Well said, goes for boat trailers as well... Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearing has always been, despite Bearing Buddy and all the other's claims, a poor way to grease wheel bearings. The problem is that as Jim said, the entire cavity must become filled before grease reaches the far bearing. From then on, each time more is pumped in, what greases the far bearing is the old grease that's been drying out in the hub cavity. Far better to go the extra mile, remove the hub, and hand pack both bearings, allowing you to actually inspect the bearings for rust or other damage. Seals are cheap and a new one at the same time assures water and dirt will stay out until the next time you service the axle. Pumping grease in until it oozes out also runs the risk of dislodging the seal. In addition, with the cavity fully packed with grease, as the hub warms up, grease and trapped air will expand pushing more grease out making a mess of the inner sidewall of the tires (and brakes) and causing confusion as to whether the seal is really bad. Properly hand packed bearings and fresh seal will result in clean tires and a timely warning (leaking grease) if something is amiss with the axle. A real problem is that adjusting wheel bearings is becoming a lost art. Most upcoming mechanics are only familiar with sealed bearings now that virtually all autos and most trucks are equipped with sealed bearings on all four wheels. You can read all the books you want but nothing takes the place of an experienced mechanic teaching you by letting you feel the difference between too loose, too tight, and just right bearing adjustment. Sadly many current wrench turners never got that memo.
Fisher Bill 04/11/17 10:44am Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

Using a grease gun to grease wheel bearing has always been, despite Bearing Buddy and all the other's claims, a poor way to grease wheel bearings. The problem is that as Jim said, the entire cavity must become filled before grease reaches the far bearing. From then on, each time more is pumped in, what greases the far bearing is the old grease that's been drying out in the hub cavity. Far better to go the extra mile, remove the hub, and hand pack both bearings, allowing you to actually inspect the bearings for rust or other damage. Seals are cheap and a new one at the same time assures water and dirt will stay out until the next time you service the axle. Pumping grease in until it oozes out also runs the risk of dislodging the seal. In addition, with the cavity fully packed with grease, as the hub warms up, grease and trapped air will expand pushing more grease out making a mess of the inner sidewall of the tires (and brakes) and causing confusion as to whether the seal is really bad. Properly hand packed bearings and fresh seal will result in clean tires and a timely warning (leaking grease) if something is amiss with the axle. A real problem is that adjusting wheel bearings is becoming a lost art. Most upcoming mechanics are only familiar with sealed bearings now that virtually all autos and most trucks are equipped with sealed bearings on all four wheels. You can read all the books you want but nothing takes the place of an experienced mechanic teaching you by letting you feel the difference between too loose, too tight, and just right bearing adjustment. Sadly many current wrench turners never got that memo.
garyemunson 04/11/17 07:11am Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

In my RV experiences I have had issues with bearings on 3 occasions, it's always a bearing issue. Once the drum super heated due to a bad bearing and another time a Dexter never lube axle bearing failed, I caught it due to noise and wheel wobble on turning. Final piece of advice on those lube zerk fittings, if you over lube them you can blow the grease seal and put grease all over the brake shoes which trashes them. Our last RV came from the factory that way! Better to re-pack the old fashioned way.
almcc 04/11/17 07:07am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I like my EZ-lubes just fine. As for where the grease expanded from temperature goes, that little rubber boot in cummins pic expands outward. Pops back in when the pressure drops. I use any good lithium based wheel bearing grease. And even though I don't have disk brakes, I still use the disk brake grease, because it is a high temp formula. You don't have to remove the cap sleeve to add grease. That little rubber boot pops right out. This is pretty much the same that I do and same type of grease. Has worked fine for me. I enjoy not having to pack the bearings by hand. I've been doing that for nearly 50 years, and still have to on my old gooseneck with Dexter 8K axles. They were originally oil bath, but switched to grease when I couldn't keep oil in due to only occasional use and flat spotted seals.
msjdbman 03/10/17 03:09pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I prefer to hand pack them myself , that way I get a good look at the brakes, bearings, races and all the other components. Plus it's just plain old too easy to blow out the seals pumping that much grease in there. After actually pulling my hub off, inspecting, adjusting the bearings and pumping in the grease I have to say I completely disagree! I felt virtually no resistance difference while pumping the handle when the cavity started to fill. http://i.imgur.com/8SonF3cl.jpg Do it whichever way you want too, it's your trailer, but on my trailers EZ lubes aren't a maintenance replacement for disassembling & inspection of bearings, races, spindles, brakes, magnets and other hub components. If that cavity is totally full of grease, what happens when the brakes heat up the drum/hub and the grease expands. Where does the grease go? The picture shown appears to be from an axle without brakes! On an axle like this Easy Lube is the only way to go! Just pump till your hearts content and let the grease ooze onto the wheel rim. If you have brakes on a trailer then the cleanliness of those brake shoes and magnet is of upmost importance. If you did not understand I pulled the hub, that requires the silver cap to be removed. I did all the greasing with the cap off and then removed the excess grease before replacing the cap.
Cummins12V98 03/09/17 08:26am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

I prefer to hand pack them myself , that way I get a good look at the brakes, bearings, races and all the other components. Plus it's just plain old too easy to blow out the seals pumping that much grease in there. After actually pulling my hub off, inspecting, adjusting the bearings and pumping in the grease I have to say I completely disagree! I felt virtually no resistance difference while pumping the handle when the cavity started to fill. http://i.imgur.com/8SonF3cl.jpg Do it whichever way you want too, it's your trailer, but on my trailers EZ lubes aren't a maintenance replacement for disassembling & inspection of bearings, races, spindles, brakes, magnets and other hub components. If that cavity is totally full of grease, what happens when the brakes heat up the drum/hub and the grease expands. Where does the grease go? The picture shown appears to be from an axle without brakes! On an axle like this Easy Lube is the only way to go! Just pump till your hearts content and let the grease ooze onto the wheel rim. If you have brakes on a trailer then the cleanliness of those brake shoes and magnet is of upmost importance.
Likes to tow 03/09/17 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter EZ Lube

First of all, Dexter's web site recommends a few brands of grease and Pennzoil 707L is on that list and Lippert's recommended list also. It's red and has a high drop point (holds up to heat). Also some web sites do not recommend combining two different greases. They recommend washing all the old grease out and then hand packing. There are a substantial number of articles and forums you can read on the Easy Lube Hubs. I personally think they are great for a boat trailer but the possibility of putting too much grease in the bearing cavity is very great! My previous 5th wheel was pre owned when I got it and the brakes simply did not even begin to work. Pulling the manual lever on the brake controller did nothing. I took the brake drums off and what I saw was unbelievable. The brake shoes and magnets were totally covered in grease!!!!!!!! I called the previous owner and ask him about it. He said "why sure, we always put grease in the zerk each time we prepared for a trip." I did not replace the brakes but washed everything down in gasoline and lacquer thinner. I replaced the seals and hand packed the bearings. Brakes worked great after that.......for a while. Then I noticed little braking ability when using the manual lever. I removed all four wheels again and apparently grease had oozed out of the brake linings and contaminated the drum surface. So I cleaned them all our again. Brakes good for about a year then same thing....more grease had oozed out of the linings. I put up with this for a few years, never replacing the brake shoes and finally when I traded it in last year for a new 5th wheel with new brakes I was totally shocked at the braking power I had. Never had I been able to stop like this!!! Bottom line....don't use the easy lube zerk fitting. Hand pack your bearings and use quality grease at least every other year depending on how many miles you travel. If your shoes are already contaminated then REPLACE THEM now.
Likes to tow 03/07/17 06:31am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. Yes, Youtube.com has a lot of useful videos.
trail-explorer 02/13/17 11:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion.. Once upon a time, I didn't know how to do myself. I learned and saved tons of money - by doing it myself. People can learn - even folks who don't know how to do it today. Spike is right...this is re-packing wheel bearings it is NOT rocket science or brain surgery. And THE BEST reason to do it yourself is that you learn yet another aspect of your rig which makes you that much more self reliant and not dependent on overpriced simple repairs from so called "experts".
fulltimedaniel 02/13/17 07:56am Travel Trailers
RE: Tire wear

For wheel bearings.... I re-pack grease and replace inner seals myself. Lots of videos on U-Tube. And while the wheel hubs are off, I also inspect my own brake parts as well. Money saved means I can spend dollars on other items. And, it's re-greasing is done properly - not by a young kid working at minimum wage. This works for me... This may work for you (and me) but if a guy that has never done it before relies on utube , they should not attempt it . Pay the money and have a reputable place do it . Or have a friend or neighbour that knows how to do it right ,help and show them. just my opinion.. Once upon a time, I didn't know how to do myself. I learned and saved tons of money - by doing it myself. People can learn - even folks who don't know how to do it today.. What I was leaning for was the fact that there are some people that should not touch anything like bearings and especially brakes as those parts are important to safety. I have friends that are not mechanically inclined and they feel safer having knowledgable folk do the work they feel unsure doing. That's all.
harley4275 02/12/17 05:42pm Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2017 CWI, Inc. © 2017 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS