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 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 38 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Can I just upgrade to 5200 pound axles ?

On a Titanium that I had with 5200 lb suspension/axles I found that the only difference to a 6000 lb suspension was the spring pack. The hubs, brakes and bearings were the same for both axle ratings. Generally, 5000/5200 and 6000 lb axles have a 6 stud wheel and 7000/8000 lb axles have 8 lug wheels. It sounds to me like your trailer springs were down graded from 5200 to 4400 lbs just like my Titanium was downgraded from 6000 to 5200 lbs. They save a little weight and can put cheaper, smaller tires on the trailers. It's like my current trailer with 7000lb axle rating. The only difference to make them 8000lb is the tires. It came with LT235/75/16 E load range tires and all it would have taken to get an 8000lb rating would have been to use 'G' load rated tires. There is a big cost difference between 'E' and 'G' rated tires. It really comes down to what you expect to need for the weight you will be running with. Assuming the frame is adequate for that weight, pick a suspension package that will comfortably carry and stop your unit.
roy67ss 11/30/16 10:01pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Ford F250 Super Duty

Seeker, My 2001.5 Dodge 2-series 4x4 Cummins has a GVWR of 8800 pounds. I too have a load rating of around 2500 pounds of cargo.I have seen the ebb and flow of ratings based on a number of factors. The most important factor is/are the tires. Next is the absolute rating of the axles. Mine is 6000 pounds (or more according to Dana) front; and 11,000 pounds rear. The lawyers have their say too and bid Chrysler Corp. to downgrade the axles for safety reasons. Best not to be on the overloaded front when confronting litigation. So, Corp. rates the front axle at 5200 pounds and 7500 pounds rear with no other considerations. What considerations? My '01 RAM came with the Camper Package which added upper secondaries (aka: upper overloads) which come into play when the camper is loaded on. There is no consideration of the added payload these afford the GVWR of the truck. These are the self same secondaries that appear on the RAM 3500 duallie of the era, an era before SRW one-ton trucks, so I have in essence a 2001 SRW one ton. How can I say that? I checked all the parts differences between the frame, suspension, brakes, axles and bearings, and found only the hub extensions fore and aft, and two more, larger backspaced wheels are the difference. The rear axle on a DRW truck is wider than a SRW truck to take in to account the 7.5" backspacing of the duals facing inward. If you have the Sterling rear axle and assuming a Dana front axle you really have a lot to work with. Just beware there were two different versions of the Sterling, one having a higher GAWR. I have worked with mine and added 2 more upper secondary leaves, Stable Loads, and one more helper spring down in the pack giving me an 8-leaf rear spring pack in a sort of 3-stage system that gives a slightly worse than stock empty ride and a solid ride as the weight is added. I'm comfortable with what I've come up with in my build. So, you can and will make up your own mind as to whether your truck is build-worthy, by adding suspension help, higher load rated tires, and maybe even higher load rated wheels. I just went through the wheel upgrade by dumping my cast aluminum wheels (with a 3600 load rating) to Stockton Wheel Steelies which have a stupid high load rating on the rear axle under the portion of the truck that takes 90% of the added weight of the camper. It depends too on what year truck you have; whether it's gas or diesel, 4WD. The 99-02 Ford diesels are very sought after and considered by many to be the pinnacle of the International Harvester V-8 oil burners. If you have a gas engine, you will be forever afoul of gas stations to keep the tank full. Give us the info and you will get a bunch of semi-knowlegeablel replies from those own the same truck you do. jefe
jefe 4x4 10/26/16 11:28am Truck Campers
RE: Dexter 8k axles, nev-r-lube bearings

Just a question - when is the last time you pulled the front hubs and repacked the wheel bearings in your car? Sealed bearings replaced the "pull and pack" bearings many years ago in most automotive applications. Rusty Because people are driving/riding in cars and trucks, the bearings are probably 10x better quality than those used in towables. =Highly= unlikely that an RV bearing failure would lead to an injury or death; not so with motor vehicles. Lyle
laknox 10/20/16 02:19pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Dexter 8k axles, nev-r-lube bearings

Just a question - when is the last time you pulled the front hubs and repacked the wheel bearings in your car? Sealed bearings replaced the "pull and pack" bearings many years ago in most automotive applications. Rusty
RustyJC 10/20/16 06:03am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Hot wheel rims,hub AND smell from axle

Even on new trailers, hand pack the wheel bearings and check brake adjustment.
coolbreeze01 10/17/16 11:53am Towing
RE: solution to lug nut covers?

Would not pack wheel bearings with 5000 mikes on them.
Weldon 09/26/16 12:22pm Towing
RE: solution to lug nut covers?

5000 miles is really pushing it with the wheel bearings. Recommended interval for pulling them down and repacking is 3000 miles or annually as far as I know. Should be in the owner's manual. You can stretch that if you trust the E-Z lube axles to not wreck the dust seal and fill your brake drum with grease. 3000mi interval for re packing trailer bearings? Lol. Musnt have anything better to do...... Do you re pack them half way through a vacation in the campground? Quality grease and proper bearing packing on a hub that is in good condition, that interval is at least 5x that maybe more. And get some bearing buddies and extend that to 10x or more. I took apart the hubs on my old snomachine trailer after almost 10 years of dragging it around the country, loaded. Idk, maybe 20kmi, probably more. A lot of 80 mph down the freeway at -10 or +100deg too. Was going to just replace the hearings before overloading it and taking off to AK for a couple more years of torture. After cleaning up the bearings, I promptly repacked and re installed them. Virtually no wear compare to new. I do like/use bearing buddy's though. You can blow out the seal in back with them, but that just tells you you're over full and a little mess. Doesn't mess up the seal. Best to add a little grease right after a hard run when the grease inside is soft and moves around easy.
Grit dog 09/26/16 10:53am Towing
RE: How I remove AND install axle grease caps

Mex, Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?Packing the area between the two bearings will do a couple of things: It prevents less rust to form in the hub. It will allow grease to melt/flow that is not inside the bearing. As the bearings warm up grease flows within the bearing. It also heats that adjacent grease that you packed into the hub middle. That heated grease just outside the bearing now can flow to the bearing surfaces. If you absolutely filled the entire hub, you may see that your dustcaps are moving. I'd pull them now and then to remove the grease inside.
westend 09/18/16 02:44am Tech Issues
RE: How I remove AND install axle grease caps

Mex, Today I just put in new wheel bearings for my rv and always wondered whether one should pack grease in the hub area between the inner and outer bearings and also how much. I asked around and got a variety of answers but none really definitive. So, today I packed the heck out of the hubs and am hoping for the best. Are you saying it's not necessary, not a good idea or it doesn't make any difference with the new greases?
ernie1 09/17/16 10:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Real weights of an arctic Fox 1140?

For sure, never mind the F450 has larger brakes, larger rear axle, 19.5's....but by all means, the F350 is a better hauler. Amazing! I know when I was shopping for my truck in 2013 I was a bit puzzled by the F450. As you noted, bigger components so you would figure it would haul better. Only thing I could figure was GVWR is determined by the weakest component. That suggested, as noted i. The other thread, maybe the spring pack wasn't any stronger and the weakest link. Alternatively maybe the frame on the pickups isn't really suited for more than 14,000 pounds. It is interesting the higher rated F450 chassis / cab model uses a different frame. Really liked the turning radius though. You're correct, the 450 pickups are like a 3500hd, or 4500 light. And it is possible the frame is the lowest common denominator, but if it was then the 3500s wouldn't have more payload as most of the addl weight in a 4500 pickup (not C&C) is unsprung weight. (Bigger wheels, axle and brakes). Also, as a ME, you know design considerations are surrounded by liability. And with that, a reputable smart company is going to put a greater factor of safety into the components that, if they fail, would cause catastrophic failure and great liability problems. To that point, in years, I've seen only 1 pic of a frame failure, was a ford and on this website, but that's not pertinent. I've not heard of any HD pickup splitting a rim and tossing the wheel off the truck resulting in a fiery crash, although I've read of a couple cracked rims. But I've personally had, seen or replaced several broken leaf springs over the years. I've also seen MANY trucks used daily at so far over their rated gvws that they'd make Ralph Nader roll over in his grave. I've driven mostly F150 company trucks for about 20 years now and my typical load on a few of them was a large cross box and 2 side boxes with as many tools as I could stuff in them. Then what little bed space was left usually was full of stuff that was not light! All that on c clip axles and sometimes 15" tires, 40kmi a year, 90mph across the desert almost daily in 0 degree or 110degree weather. Popped a couple tires and a leaf spring occasionally. Never fell a part though. Of all those in personal experience, just one truck literally was destroyed to the point that a catastrophic failure was certainly imminent. It was a brand new 1989 Dodge 350 dually. 360 gasser that I installed a dump bed on for the landscape nursery I turned wrenches for in high school. In the first 30?kmi this truck had bent both rear axle shafts, bent one side axle tube, couple sets of outer bearings. Axle was junked and replaced when the tube bent. New brakes and or rotors every other month it seemed and the frame cracked over the rear axle on both sides at different times. Had a shop weld and plate the first one. Copied their work and did it myself on the other side when it went. Reason for all this, was my boss was dumb and didn't understand anything we are talking about here. It was the first dually dump we had, save for some old LN 700s and C60s that weren't really road worthy. And this truck was put thru he!! Best load I seen, it came back one night, had the NH 785 skid steer in the dump bed! Along with 2 or 4 36" root ball trees. Still dunno how they got them up there AFTER the skid steer was loaded. Dually tandem tag trailer, gvw Unknown, with 2 shredded flat tires and 12-16? Of the same size trees, like 25 footers with 3' dia root balls! That was the immediate cause of the first frame crack. After that, I don't think twice about putting 4000lbs in the back of a 3/4 ton truck with a 10klb rear axle and feel safe doing it. I bet that little dually was grossing well over 40000gcvw that day. Oh and it towed that big tag trailer everywhere on the OE Dodgge 2" square receiver hitch. Another reason I don't get as wound up with a little hitch extension here or there like that thread.
Grit dog 08/25/16 11:40am Truck Campers
Brake adjustment questions in the real world

In the real world...Questions about adjusting your brakes on towables (trailers and 5th wheels) How often do you do it? Do you adjust your brakes and call it good, or do you pull your hubs to check for grease and re-pack bearings and break out volt meter to check voltage? (Just trying to see what other peoples routine is. I usually don't do anything until I feel some lose of stopping power or a wheel shows more temp heat than others.) What's your routine?
path1 08/17/16 11:59am Beginning RVing
RE: Need help asap in AZ

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/Avi05/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbpn8ivz2.jpeg width=800So did you lose a wheel bearing? I assume that's what caused the failure. yup. Lost the wheel and drum. \ So, what really happened, the axle nut came off, right?? Did the bad bearing cause play/stress on the cotter pin and nut causing the cotter pin to fail and then the nut backed off? Did the axle get ruined? If it didn't, why not? No, the axle nut and cotter pin were still there. The bearing failed and everything just came off. I got super lucky no other damage was done. common problem on boat trailers back in the day. Makes me want to check/pack my wheel bearings, been a bit too long. you should do it. Going to replace all my bearings soon.
eDUBz 08/17/16 10:14am Toy Haulers
RE: Need help asap in AZ

http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af82/Avi05/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbpn8ivz2.jpeg width=800So did you lose a wheel bearing? I assume that's what caused the failure. yup. Lost the wheel and drum. \ So, what really happened, the axle nut came off, right?? Did the bad bearing cause play/stress on the cotter pin and nut causing the cotter pin to fail and then the nut backed off? Did the axle get ruined? If it didn't, why not? No, the axle nut and cotter pin were still there. The bearing failed and everything just came off. I got super lucky no other damage was done. common problem on boat trailers back in the day. Makes me want to check/pack my wheel bearings, been a bit too long.
nayther 08/17/16 09:26am Toy Haulers
RE: Advice on cross country trip

Be very careful not to just take everything and anything "just because". Not knowing what kind of RV you have, everything has weight and its easy to over pack and accumulate too much weight unintentionally. What we have done for longer trips is we pre-make some dinners at home and freeze them. Its so nice and easy to just take something out of the freezer and put it in a skillet and have an easy dinner after a day of driving. The dollar store has aluminum trays with covers or just vacuum pack them with your Food Saver. I also went online and ordered the travel guides from all the states we were going to go through. Good resource to have on hand as they have regional maps in them with attractions you might never have considered to visit before. Do any vehicle maintenance you may need, including the trailer wheel bearings, brake adjustment, to an oil change. Bring lots of patience and be flexible. Don't try to drive too much/long in a single day.
ken56 08/01/16 03:37pm RV Lifestyle
RE: First TT

At the age of 65, I just purchased our first travel trailer after years of tent camping with the kids. It's an immaculately maintained 1997 Kit Companion 22ST. I've been keeping the internet sales guys at Campers World busy buying the things I discovered I needed before our first trip. Being 20 years old, the owners manual is gone and I'm not having any luck finding one. I'm considering installing Bearing Buddy's on the trailer. Would you guys recommend this and if so, does anyone know the hub bore size on this trailer? Thanks in advance for any comments, and I look forward to participating on this forum. I wouldn't recommend bearing buddies. They tend to blow seals and allow grease into brake drum and then your brakes don't work. They work better in boat trailer environments which is the primary use. A better way is to manually pack your wheel bearings and check/adjust your brakes. You can do this yourself if you are mechanically inclined or pay a trusted shop. Many folks recommend packing wheel bearings annually, but I'm not one of them (unless you put more than say 5-10,000 miles per year on). Back when cars had wheel bearings that needed packing, I never did it unless I needed to pull brake drum/rotor for some reason (usually to replace brake pads/shoes). I would expect wheel bearings properly done would last at least 25,000 miles. It really depends on how many miles you go each year and if you are in the mountains or lots of hills where you want to check and adjust your trailer brakes. 20 year old trailer, you will want to make sure they are properly packed (and inspect bearings for damage/rust if it was sitting very long). Hope you have many years of camping, enjoy the adventure (my Dad is 86 and still going out).
hawkeye-08 07/25/16 03:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Wheel Bearings

How often do you all pack your wheel bearings? My husband is doing it every trip. This to me seems really excessive for a 120 mile drive. Every trip?! Boy, "excessive" is an understatement! :W Manufacturers usually suggest every year, every 12,000 miles but every two years has always worked for me. Every trip? Really? :h
SoundGuy 07/19/16 03:03pm Tech Issues
Wheel Bearings

How often do you all pack your wheel bearings? My husband is doing it every trip. This to me seems really excessive for a 120 mile drive. I could understanding if the trailer were a boat trailer and being immersed multiple times in a week. Thanks!
HGL 07/19/16 01:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Lippert axles-how to determine if you have a Super Lube hub

My TT is going on six years old. I do not know about the previous owner but I have put over 20,000 miles on it in the three years I have owned it. Until I decided to replace the brakes it was lubed though the EZ lube zerks once a year. When I did pulled the drums the bearings were well lubed. I cleaned, hand packed, then EZ lubed them. I like the idea of having the axles shaft filled with grease. I have been told you can over pack them but the manual said to spin when wheel and watch for grease at the front bearing while pumping. It worked for me.
rbpru 07/01/16 10:28pm Travel Trailers
RE: EZ lube hubs

The easy-lube axels were intended for boat trailers that have the bearings submerged in water when launching a boat. The RV industry use them as a marketing ploy to make people think there is an easy way to lube bearings. The sad reality is that RV owners should forget the easy lube **** and pack the bearing the old fashion way at recommended intervals. Also if one has the spring like nut retainers they should be discarded and replaced with the tang type nut retainers. The springy ones do not hold the nut well and could cause the bearing to loosen and thus cause pre-mature failure. So if I understand what you are trying to make us believe is,, My EZ Lube axles,,, On my Travel Trailer,,, were designed for boats? So,, if I submerge my axle launching my boat,, and I use the EZ Lube to flush out OLD Contaminated grease because of Submersion,, That won't work for my travel trailer???? Why? Because I don't launch my trailer?? If it pushes new grease in and replaces old how is that bad?? Maybe I have a weird view of how the system works,, but for the last four years it has worked for me just as the system was designed! Given the amount of traveling I do with my travel trailer, I am of the thought that I should only have to remove my bearings when i replace my brakes! If I checked my bearings and brakes at time of purchase, then hand pack and adjust my bearings,, why wouldn't i just be able to add new grease, remove old as its pushed out, and let that work for five years (given my overall travel distance) before checking bearings and brakes?? If it works fine why keep messing with it?? What is really telling you is that they should be repack them just like they do your auto at the car repair place. With the ezlube ones there is no way of telling how much grease is in there so there is no way of telling how much to pump in. When you brake the rear seal then you have grease in places it doesn't belong. My RV repair place repacks them by hand(bearing packing machine) for that same reason I'm a low-mile tower and I've hand-greased my EZ Lube axles several times over the years. Jack up the wheel, spin it while pumping, listen for the popping noise of air being forced out the rear seal, stop pumping. When I did have my bearings done after 10 years, there was =zero= grease outside the seals and the bearings and seals looked to be in excellent condition; none of the seals were backed out of position, either. I replaced them all anyway. YMMV... Lyle
laknox 06/28/16 03:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Repack bearings

You'll get a million different recommendations here. I bought my rig new in March 2011 and have about 12k miles on it. I just had mine in the axle shop for the first time last month. The mechanic told me the bearings were in perfect shape with plenty of grease. All he did was re-pack them and put everything back together. I greased mine periodically using the easy lube feature by jacking the wheel off the ground and added 3-4 squirt of grease while I rotated the tires. Having said all that your rig could be different, more miles, different bearing manufacturer, more strenuous use etc. so it's really hard to tell. One thing I always did was to keep an eye on hub temps when I made fuel stops. High hub temps can be an early warning to failure. It's all about how much faith you have in your rig and how much risk you are willing to take.
allen8106 05/26/16 01:34pm Fifth-Wheels
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