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 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 39 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Greasing LCI SuperLube Axles

At the factory, they pack the bearings correctly and don't bother with trying to fill the entire system with grease. So, there's a lot of air to displace. Plus, there's all that grease that gets pushed past the seal and is now contaminating your brakes. Seriously, to even attempt using a super-lube type system, you need to get the axles and hubs really warm (drive around dragging the brakes), let the grease cartridge sit in a bucket of really hot water for a half hour, then pump it in very slowly while spinning the wheel/hub. Otherwise, you're probably contaminating the brakes and making it a bigger job than just doing a hand repack in the first place. But, if it's time for the bearings to get new grease, then they also need to be inspected, which can't happen unless you take stuff apart. Super-lube systems are a gimmick for anything except a boat trailer.
mike-s 10/22/17 03:48pm Tech Issues
Packing wheel bearing

I was going to pack the wheel bearings on my 2003 Aliner and when I pulled the hub the grease looked nasty. I don't remember looking that bad the last time I packed them. I am going to order new seal and clean the bearings and repack. The book calls for lithium grease. I am thinking about using synthetic after everything is cleaned up. Is anyone using synthetic? At the risk of sounding stupid, why do the bearings need to be packed every year if there is a grease fitting on the bearing cover
airlifter 08/27/17 02:05pm Folding Trailers
RE: greasing wheels

We had a wheel come off in Biloxi, Ms and broke the drum. That was after having brakes and backing plates replaced six months prior. Would have thought they took care of the bearings at that time. Unless you do it yourself, having a mechanic inspect the brakes and bearings every year sounds like a good idea whether you pack on the mileage or leave the rig sit for long periods of time in one place where condensation can get in.
Road Phantom 08/05/17 12:33pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: greasing wheels

Well you can argue how often to attend to your wheel bearings, but consider this, while your wheel bearings may be good for a couple of years, you still need to pay attention to your grease seals and brakes! Every year you should remove wheel and hub, clean and inspect brakes, check your seals, replace as required! Now that you have done that, how much more would it be to clean, inspect, and re pack your wheel bearings? The big part is removing the wheel and hub, so again it may be a little over kill but you will have piece of mind that your good to go! A lot of brake problems can be traced to bad/worn seals along with to much grease! Oh and use a good synthetic grease!
Coach-man 08/05/17 12:08pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Front rotors on E450 Chassis

To change Pads and Calipers ONLY, Very Easy. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm Loosen Lugs, Jack Up, Support Axle on Stands/Jacks, Remove Wheel Pry the Caliper inboard so it compresses the Piston, Loosening the Pads Remove Caliper Slide Bolts, may be hex nuts or internal TORX Prepare Brake Line Caps. I used short pieces of wiper hose with a golf tee in the end Disconnect Hose at Chassis and Cap Immediately, unclip Hose from ABS wire, use a Tubing Wrench to Loosen and Tighten the Hose Fitting Lift Caliper, Hose and Pads off the Caliper Mounting Bracket Replace ALL those Parts, Hose Included Apply Brake Lubricant such as https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51JzPoUb2RL._AC_US218_.jpg width=250 Reassemble Siphon brake fluid out of Master Cylinder till Reservoir is almost BUT NOT empty, then FILL with NEW Fluid Bleed Brakes NEVER ALLOWING MASTER CYLINDER TO GO EMPTY!!! Reinstall Wheel, set on Ground, Torque Nuts to 140 Only moderate braking till Pads settle in To remove ROTORS, you need a 21mm socket/wrench, 13/16" may fit if you get all the rust off the bolt heads, 7/8" SIX Point may also work, and they are TIGHT, about the same as those Wheel Nuts at 140 Remove Caliper Bracket Bolts and Bracket, then Dust Cap and Bearing Nuts/Bearings/Seals etc to re-pack your Bearings If you need to Re-Surface or to Replace your ROTORS, I suggest you find late model take-off parts from a 4x4 conversion outfit. The parts will cost no more than a "complete" brake job of Rotors, Bearings, Hoses, Calipers, and Pads. You get all-new, Bigger and Better Brakes that are Plug and Play. I didn't even re-pack the Bearings. Nearest to you is UJoint in Fletcher NC near I-26 about 20 miles your side of Asheville. E350 and E450 dual rear wheel vehicles "donate" the same front brakes. I got my "kit" from Quigley Motors in central PA, and I got axles and all. That provides all-new Ball Joints, Bushings, and an upgraded Radius Arm design. They crated it and I arranged shipping. The palletized carton weight 400 lb and fit in my compact pickup.
j-d 07/24/17 10:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

An update on kingpin project, so others can learn. In addition to worn kingpins, I've discovered the wheel bearings were too loose. When we started working on the kingpins, by removing the tires and rotors, I was able to move the tires and rotors back and forth on the spindles. A little bit of play is necessary to keep the bearings from wearing prematurely but this seemed like too much, and worn kingpins couldn't account for the amount of play. The weight of the tires makes detecting actual play difficult. The rotors, by themselves without the tires, gives a better indication. A bit of Internet research, focusing on heavy duty trucks, led to examine two indicators. (Yes, what I'm working on a light truck but information on heavy duty trucks tends to be more consistant and provided by professionals rather than a lot of amateurs or shadetree mechanics who may not know as much.) The two indicators are tire tread and brake lining wear. Loose bearings, according to the professionals, cause the hubs to lean inward at the top, when the vehicle is lowered to the ground and weight is applied to the spindles and hubs. The inward lean causes the inside edges of the tire tread to wear more. Likewise, the lean tends to cause brake linings to wear unevenly. In our case, the tread wear was as predicted. Likewise, the brake pads were worn to a taper rather than evenly across their length. Further web exploration indicated the old Haynes manual we were relying on has an apparent error in terms of the wheel bearing preload torque specification. Everything I could find on the web indicate the actual torque should be two to six times what is in that manual. The HD truck procedures indicate the hub play should be between .001" and .005" and a final check should be done with a dial indicator. I have a dial indicator and accessories but most people in this thread probably don't. There's plenty of guidance on how to (re)pack, install, and preload bearings so I won't get into it. However, the range of recommended freeplay is roughly the width of two human hairs. So, if you can detect freeplay, your bearings are probably too loose. (If you have significant difficulty rotating the hub or tire when it's off the ground, then your bearings may be too tight.) Old-timers guidance, from almost 45 years ago, says tighten the spindle nut until you can't turn the hub and then back off the nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Calculations, based on typical spindle thread count, indicate this should be close to recommended freeplay. (There's actually more steps involved so do your research. I'm just focusing on diagnosis and calculations here, without regard to what is take to do the job correctly.)
Griff in Fairbanks 07/18/17 04:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Greasing wheel bearings

When repacking wheel bearings, how full do you pack the center of the hub between the front and rear bearings?
ernie1 07/10/17 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Bearing repack question

Not sure what you mean by had packed correctly. I did was to pack/grease the two bearings. Beyond packing the bearings, what do you mean? Is there a potential problem if I adds more into the fitting? ThanksIf you just swished some grease on that could be insufficient. If you forced grease into the rollers so it oozed out in all directions then you are good and done. The issue with the zerk is the grease is forced against the rear seal to make it flow through the bearings from back to front. If grease gets past the seal it goes on the brake shoes. If you must use the zerk you must have a double lip seal and rotate the wheel while you SLOWLY hand pump the grease. Again this is not needed if the bearing is properly packed.
time2roll 07/08/17 04:30pm Travel Trailers
RE: EZ lube spindle AND bearing repack question

Dexter originally said that the EZ Lube was for axles/hubs that were submerged to be easily purged of contaminated grease. They has since lightened up and say it is a general purpose re-pack feature. I have had and used them for years, and find them to be an easy way to give a grease flush between repack/inspections. Patience and turning the wheel are both important to successful flushing. I do pull the hubs and have the bearings cleaned, inspected and repacked every other year on average.
fairfaxjim 07/06/17 11:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Greasing wheel bearings

Re Swimming _spre,,wheel went flying, ripped off brake wires and burnt my hand when I touched the smoking hub to see if it was hot. (dumb, dumb, dumb.) I had treated myself to having a tech pack my bearings. Never again. I do mine every year or 12,000 miles. Regrease, replace bearings as necessary and change the seals and cotter pins every time. The tech left out a coffee pin. :(
Calgary Campers 07/05/17 08:47pm Tech Issues
RE: 1964 Roadrunner - Tow-Mater Cab-Over Bunk Resto-Mod

Today - Axle wheel bearings and wheel seals clean, inspect and re-grease (re-pack). I'm a shade-tree mechanic. That means, often a shade with come across my mind and then I can't remember what to do - or why. That's when I depend on this excellent research tool I discovered called "the Internet". But then you have to decide each time, is that hoax tips or real tips? Yes sir! The Internet can be misleading! Take me for instance; I don't necessarily know what I'm talking about, and I'm not even TRYING to mislead you. One has to be careful. The following wheel bearing techniques work for me, but I suspect there's lots of viewpoints on the matter. First and foremost, with age I've gotten smarter, or at least less physically capable, so I use crutches, like a work bench for instance, instead of a small patch of ground - whenever possible. Here's the scene. http://i.imgur.com/WxBE6wk.jpg Note the axle spindles poking out on either side, easily accessible, and all cleaned up, ready for working. And there in the middle, all the parts in the same cleaned and prepped state. http://i.imgur.com/FyqVokl.jpg When I'm taking it off, and cleaning it up, and setting it out, and putting it on, I set up a left and right that I don't deviate from. Once you've got the parts separated, you can mix things up very easily. And when it comes to wear patterns, you don't want to mix up. The bearing races (cups) pressed into the hub, and the associated inner and outer wheel bearings (cones) have run together for long enough, that put in the wrong pairing can allow previous wear patterns in each to adversely wear in future. Or so I've heard. In this case, the surfaces appear in such perfect condition, there's no point in replacement or even bearing cup removal from the hub (which you never do unless you are replacing parts - always replace cone and cup as a set). I wipe most the grease with my once-used hand drying paper towels, and then get stuff in the solvent tank. Then from there, it's off to the hot water rinse, and then the compressed-air dry. If the bearing grease is old (and relatively hard), you might have to clean the bearing cage several times to make sure all the old stuff is out. When drying, don't spin the bearings. It's tempting, and can seem pretty cool, until it explodes in your face. Fast spin without grease can create friction and heat and devastating loss to vision - and if not that, perhaps irritating facial wounds dripping blood into your eyes, and you can't see and you go through too many paper towels and rags and stuff, and the blood can contaminate and thin your grease. It's just not worth it and can create more workload and unscheduled time off. Let's look at the dirty. First off is the dust cap - in this case it's threaded, and most often it's pressed in. These are fairly cheap for a new one, but I've never looked for a threaded. http://i.imgur.com/1D90xFH.jpg Next remove the cotter pin, the lock-nut and the thrust washer. Then the outer bearing can carefully be removed. Then the hub slides off the spindle with the inner bearing and the seal remaining in the hub. Hear's the outer on the towel. And the back side of the hub still with the inner. http://i.imgur.com/8qxVIge.jpg Here's the other side inner along with the spindle end. http://i.imgur.com/xorGfK8.jpg Here you can see the stamping (numbers) on the seal. Some wear or imperfect stamping obscures the numbers. http://i.imgur.com/xHBTgkB.jpg Let's look at the other side. http://i.imgur.com/bA1Td6V.jpg That's better. National 6362 USA Pat. Come to find out that's a leather seal, no longer made? Apparently obsolete. The Internet says a modern replacement is a neoprene: National 440265, SKF 16811, or NAPA 16811. I didn't need new, because I didn't destroy the seals getting them out of the hub (or putting them in) and because the leather sealing surface still looks so good. But I've never run across a leather one, so I had to research. I found a site that "appeared" non-hoax-like that made some logical sense, so I used it. That's after cleaning. For now let's get it out. I use a bridge and a spot for the seal and bearing to fall safely (not to the ground). A wooden punch and a hammer making a sharp blow (not smashing blow, not hard blow - a sharp blow). And balanced sharp blows around it evenly. One hand holding the hub, one hand holding the hammer, one hand holding the wood, and one hand catching what comes out. So you can do it if you're "handy", but a friend can help too. http://i.imgur.com/4tOCDWf.jpg Once inside, I clean the grease out and inspect. No pits, heat spots, etc. Nice clean, smooth bearing surfaces. http://i.imgur.com/zXrA9TR.jpg So after cleaning then. All laid out. http://i.imgur.com/NkEa1d9.jpg And once dried with compressed air, I oil it up a little before grease. That keeps off immediate surface rusting and allows a smoother grease flow while packing. http://i.imgur.com/3eNLm2z.jpg And the seals. http://i.imgur.com/bbSlKBt.jpg This ring goes on first. I think it's called a sling, because it slings outside water (and other contaminants) away centrifugally from the leather seal surface. http://i.imgur.com/aPzTKbh.jpg And with the sling pushed back into position on the spindle shoulder... http://i.imgur.com/xM6qYOs.jpg grease it up. http://i.imgur.com/SeaJCmR.jpg Now some people think "re-packing" the wheel bearings means to stuff as much grease as possible into the hub cavity. I disagree. To me it means packing each bearing cone (the side with all the rollers) thoroughly. I've never liked the air-pressure or press-down packers. I learned in High School Mechanics class how to palm grease the bearings and it has always worked well for me. Two fingers in the bearing, the other hand full of grease, the bearing held in the direction that allows most air space between the rollers and the internals of the cage, and repeatedly force grease from the palm up into every internal crevice in the bearing - slowly turning it in your two fingered hand to press grease up inside each roller until you see it pushing out toward you. It's messy, but fun - and effective. Then in goes the inner bearing (grease the hub too first), and then the seal. I simply used a hammer on the seal. It's about finesse and technique, not force. Light taps and kept even. Don't let the seal slant and then wack it - you'll be buying a new seal. http://i.imgur.com/ATQrFSp.jpg Tap the outer seal surface flush to the hub. Done. Then prep the outer bearing and cup (in the hub). http://i.imgur.com/yViNAOX.jpg I assembled one side, prepped the other, then strung the axle up over the springs keeping my greasy spindle out of the dirt. Once in place, I could put on the other hub (that whole space available thing between the springs and the trailer frame). With both hubs on and bearing nuts "tight-enough" (a little more than finger tight), I dropped the axle over the spring pins in my newly drilled holes. Final bearing pre-set to come once I get the tires and wheels on, because I do it by feel, and I need the leverage weight and spin of the wheel and tire assembly to help me "feel it". http://i.imgur.com/CJT7zJ6.jpg Now I need to locate one or four new u-bolts, and check on the tires order.
Dave Pete 07/01/17 06:26am Travel Trailers
RE: Greasing bearings question

Thoroughly clean the bearings when inspecting your brakes. Hand pack the bearings with wheel bearing grease and install a new grease seal. Smack that grease fitting with a hammer so that it can never be used,
Lynnmor 06/26/17 05:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Greasing bearings question

I just did mine not long ago... I jacked up one at a time, pumped the grease while turning the tires... I was surprised that it took about a tube per wheel That would surprise me too, usually it takes about a golf ball size gob for each bearing. The difference is that when you hand pack the bearings individually you don't have to fill the void around the axle between the inner and outer bearings like is required using the grease gun method using the zerk. You have to fill that void before the grease will be expelled out from around the outer bearing and all that grease in the void is doing nothing to provide any lubrication to either bearing. A tube might be a little too much, but around 2/3's of a tube would not surprise me at all and why I no longer recommend using the grease gun/zerk method when that is an option. Hand packing IMO is much better. Larry
LarryJM 06/26/17 05:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tire separated from axle

Glad everyone was ok. Old Bisquit said the possibilities I would bet on. I lost a wheel on my 5er 6 years ago. It was the trip after I had a service guy pack bearings and adjust brakes. He stepped up and paid for the repairs. Good luck with everything.
Bionic Man 06/21/17 09:22pm Toy Haulers
RE: Bought an HTT, now what?

Re-pack the wheel bearings and inspect the brakes, especially the wiring.
theoldwizard1 06/19/17 08:52pm Hybrid Travel Trailers
RE: Dexter EZ Lube ISSUE RESLOVED bad gun

To all of you still using the EZ Lube feature on your axle be aware of the issues with this system!! If you have been pumping away with your grease gun and nothing comes out there is the possibility that the rear seal has blown out and your are lubing your brake shoes and magnet assemblies. I highly recommend you pull your brake drums and inspect for grease on the brakes~!!! There are significant amounts of opinions on using the easy lube system but most experienced Rv'ers will only hand pack the bearings. Easy Lube is wonderful for boat trailers that get submerged in water but useless on any trailer with brake actuators operating on the highway. Do a search on this and other forums about this issue and you will find an overwhelming number of people have had major issues with grease on their brakes. Look at the Grand Design owners forum and see the issue with Lippert and the massive replacement of complete brake assemblies due to grease getting past the seal. Uh, you may have read some posts on the GD forum but clearly not all of them because you're missing THE most important fact. The problems with leaking axle seals from the OEM have ZERO...I state again...ZERO relation to the EZlube system. The EZlube zerks are not touched at the factory! Do a test the day you opt to repack your bearings manually. Before you pull the hubs, try to force grease into the hub via EZlube zerk as fast and hard as you can. Try to blow that seal. You wont. It takes significant pressure to blow out an axle seal with a grease gun. And if it leaks any grease, well then it would leak (or is leaking) under normal use and its good you are replacing it! I did not mean to place blame on the Grand Design problem with EZ Lube system. It was only to show what can happen when you get grease on your brakes, however that may happen. Grand Design/Lippert problem was caused by bad thin grease with low dropping point, bad seals or the process of assembly.......who knows for sure, they have claimed many theories. I had the EZ lube system on my 2nd 5th wheel(Crossroads Cruiser) which I had purchased from an individual after he owned it two years. His statement to me was "I greased the bearings several times using a grease gun, never pulled the drums." My inspection, after realizing I had very little braking ability, was the brake clusters (shoes and magnets) were completely saturated with grease!!!
Likes to tow 06/04/17 04:50pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Repacking the wheel bearings

I look at it this way, yes and I will tell you why. building a TT is not rocket science. so many things on a TT that can go wrong in a short period of time and or use. if they build a TT that is so apt to have something go wrong and if they build them so nilly nelly what makes you think they packed the wheel bearings right the the first time when they put them together. in short I pack mine just as soon as I get the new TT home. I don't trust the way they build TT's nowadays
old guy 05/10/17 09:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Deka DC31DT battery? Deep Cycle?

...while the OP has been agonizing over which batteries to purchase he hasn't said a word about what charger he's using to maintain those batteries, which is critical if he expects to maximize the life of any battery he may invest in, particularly if he opts for AGMs or Gels instead of flooded Well, been trying to work that out. Here is where the choice is at the moment, and key points. 1. Flooded batteries. Different chemistry and such would require other charging and higher voltages, which could affect my unregulated LEDs. 2. I have the WF-8955AN 3 stage charger at 55amps (load and charger) 3. We will be out up to a week at a time without shore power, but will have generator use a few hours a day. 4. We have Xantrex 1800 PSW inverter on its way to run 120v lighting and laptop power supplies, and likely try running microwave a few mins each am during quiet hours. 5. Strongly considering Group 31 12v deep cycle batteries, expecting to have 2, possibly 3 in parallel. 6. We will plug in the camper for an extended period when we return from the week+ trip, then a day or two at a time while on the 2-4 week travel trip to different places this summer. 7. I DO have several large chargers that can be used when we return home. Some are multistage, some are not. Most are not easily portable, but I have a 3 stage dual battery charger in the boat that may come out...not all worked out yet. 8. As inverter is direct wired and we move the converter to its own breaker and add NC relay to prevent it from being powered on inverter, and we likely add 30amp transfer switch (the built in ATS on the inverter is only 15amp, probably have to just skip it) to jump between shore/generator power and inverter power.....leads to.... 9. A starter solar system could show up by the end of season or before next season, with appropriate charging upgrade that will top off the batteries. As the system "matures" we are striving to take steps that meet our needs and expected needs without too much waste or replacements necessary. 10. We are adding 12v sockets and USB ports to natively power and charge devices without the inverter 11. I will be moving the cell wireless repeater/booster to this new camper and strategically placing the Mobley that just arrived today to allow my daughter to take her advanced classes this summer while traveling. 12. We *may* provide for the ability to isolate one battery as emergency use for the newly installed electric tongue jack and both 12v slides. 13. I'll be building extra battery mounts for 3-4 batteries. 14. The inverter will be mounted inside the front storage area on the soon to be added pegboard to line the full width compartment, while I pull the LCD monitoring panel, wire in RJ45/RJ11 (not sure which it has) to remote the panel to as of yet undetermined location to monitor, but provide the ability to cover it to shade at night in the master bedroom. 15. Replace the ceiling vent fan in the bathroom with a Fantastic Fan, after washing and resealing the entire roof, slides, sides, etc. 16. Replace the awning 17. Devise rear storage container rack setup and try to fit in all our gear 18. Work out a bike rack, possibly with a front hitch on the Excursion 19. Wash and wax the camper ( :) ) 20. Paint any faded plastic, replace all window weatherstripping while cleaning and dry lubing the contact points and sliding channels 21. Finish replacing the cooling unit on the fridge and reinstall it, while making new air chimney/draft above the fridge and allowing for a new storage area above it. 22. Add LED lighting to underside near wheels and stabilizing jacks for night time setup 23. Add backup cameras to Excursion and to the camper 24. Add expansion tank to water system 25. Add quick disconnect to propane system for our Wave 3 propane heater 26. Add light switches inside the door and lights to steps 27. Add extended grab handle to steps/door 28. Replace stove hood vent fan with quiet and efficient fan 29. Possibly add fan to main bedroom vent 30. Add vent hoods (like MaxAir or similar) for powerless ventilation 31. Flush, test, and sanitize water and waste systems. 32. Pull all wheel hubs to inspect and pack bearings and inspect brakes 33. Shampoo all carpeting and wipe down entire camper walls, ceiling, cabinets, etc 34. Figure out where to pack everything we take with us 35. Do service and maintenance on our hybrid to get it ready to sale. ...and probably lots more, LOL So you can see that batteries and power are very important, but lots of other moving pieces as well. If I miss a few things or make some mistakes, please point them out, but don't get too frustrated with me- lots of things happening and being planned :W I guess this is all part of coming from a camper we spent years modding and setting up just the way we wanted and then starting over with another camper. Exciting for sure! (but also a lot of work) Keep the tips and info coming. They are HUGE helps :) Thanks!
DiskDoctr 04/19/17 02:07pm Tech Issues
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

If you just pack the bearings and leave the large void in the hub greaseless, the grease in the bearing will get hot,melt and run to this void in the hub.I call FUD. I just pulled mine at 10 years and maybe 35,000 miles... grease was still just fine on the cheepo bearings and all looked good. X2! I have packed many a wheel bearing in my life, and never pulled one later to find the grease the "Melted" and ran to the center. I have been packing bearings for over 50 years. Where do you come up with this stuff, marketing is great these days.
rhagfo 04/12/17 10:23pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: lost an entire wheel AND drum

Trying to keep this short: FW-2007 Coachmen 321T-Purchased new in 2007-Full Time Workamping Jan. 2016-Have new wheels and tires put on 5th wheel. Feb. 2016-Take FW to have safety inspection performed for registration renewal. Late Feb 2016-Get Fiver ready for travel to new job in Florida. Check tires, lugs, lights, etc., Fiver is ready to travel from Texas to Florida. Fiver is in RV Park so I left it hooked up to the power and water. Went to my S&B for few days to pick up DW to travel with me. Travel day-hook up to TV. Check lights, tire pressure, etc. Off we go. 25 miles later the front street side wheel assembly comes off at 55 mph. Get stopped on highway shoulder. Walk back and recover wheel assembly. Look at hub- two sheared off studs. Limp to exit, find large open area to park. "Hey I can fix this, no problem." Drive to small town- hit every autoparts place in 20 miles. Finally find enough of the correct size studs. BTW- found lugs nuts loose on Left rear wheel also. Curb side wheels are tight. No movement at all. Just like all four were six days before when checked. Change studs, install hubs and wheels. Good to go right? Nope, less than 1 mile later I see in mirror wheel angle looks odd. Stop, check lugs, both left side wheels have loose lugs. Huh? Tighten the **** out of them again-get 1/4 mile and see wobble. I limped to truck stop 5 miles away, stopping every 1/4 mile or less to tighten up. Problem is studs are starting to shear off. Make it to truck stop. I have two studs left on front left wheel and four on rear left wheel. (Six Lug Hubs) Call for road side assistance (AAA RV Plus)-No help at all. Locate Mobile Mechanic-He was able to get to me 8 hrs later- he was out on call. I had told him on phone that according to my build papers glued in the kitchen cabinet that the RV had "Dexter 5,200 lb axles" Found out later that night while under the RV that I have Lippert axles. Read directly off the axle. After all night at truck stop Mobile Mechanic has installed new hubs and bearings. Off I go to Florida, checking my lug nuts every 25 miles for the first 100 and then at every single stop. All is good. Fast forward to Nov 2016-Make RV road ready for trip back to Texas from FL. Trip home uneventful from the RV stand point. While home I fix up a few things on the RV and install two new A/C units. All is good. Jan 2017-Make ready for road trip to AZ. Do all of the checks, etc. Lugs are good. (BTW-from previous drama I am now fixated on lug nuts) Off to AZ with DW traveling with me. Five miles from house I see smoke coming off left rear wheel. Whip into Pharmacy parking lot. Dragging brake shoe maybe? Nope- I see at least one inch of brake pad showing between flange/shield and hub. OK, call Mobile Mech. Mech says I need new axle and it will take 3 weeks to get parts, 2K to tow to their facility, yada, yada, yada.. I pay mechanic for his call out. I jack up axle, remove tire and wheel w/o removing lug nuts. I see spindle/castle nut/three plate washers/inner bearing/grease seal. No outer bearing. Under discolored grease I find what is left of outer bearing. Just a small band of metal. I locate parts, and for some reason decided to buy a small hub puller. Glad I did. I purchase three complete sets of hubs, bearings, seals, nuts, finger washers, etc. Glad I did. Go to remove nut-dang it- the threads are partially stripped and the nut is only three threads from the start point. I now know why I have extra plate washers here and no finger washer.(Previous MM jury rigged it? Maybe?) Cannot get nut to move with fingers. I am glad I keep a 3 ft long crescent on the truck. With lots of grease and care I back off the nut without further damaging threads. Put new hub/bearings, etc on left side wheels/axles. Do a drive check for 50 miles stopping every 10 or so. I make my trip to AZ. I will not use those zerc fittings for greasing my bearings. I will hand pack as I did when I rebuilt it in that parking lot. My world is ok now.
abom2 04/12/17 07:22am Fifth-Wheels
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