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 > Your search for 'pack bearings wheel' found 61 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: My relentless pursuit to cure trailer sway - the dancing TT

I could see the adjustable stinger being handy if you trade trucks often or tow the same TT with more than one truck. Once you dial in the height to a TV/TT combo there is no need for further adjustments. If you keep your vehicles a long time the adjustable part is not very useful IMO, and you're stuck with the extra weight as lantley points out. I do the same as Cobra, periodically remove the dust caps on the main bearings and look for water, dirt, etc. So far they are clean and dry so I have not seen the need to re-pack. They are essentially wheel bearings, except they don't see the high speeds and heat that wheel bearings do, so the there's no reason for the grease to break down unless it gets contaminated. Call Hensley and order the bronze bushing for the spring bars and get the emergency kit while you're on the phone with them. Be sure to give the spring bars at least 10 pumps each with the grease gun to make sure they are fully lubed. I killed 2 bushings before I figured out I wasn't greasing the bars enough. I posted this pic a while back but a search wouldn't bring up the thread. One of the jack tubes stripped its threads and wouldn't go up or down. I had a length of chain in the truck and made this field repair. Measured the tensioned length of the good jack tube and approximated how many links, then adjusted the good side to match the length of chain so they were both equal. Jacked the tongue waaay up to get the chain on. Best part was that it towed just like normal about 2 hrs home! http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/Burbman/EVO1087_zps6f9f5101_1.jpg width=640
BurbMan 01/28/15 09:36am Travel Trailers
RE: EZ Lube bearings

My current 5er uses oil bath wheel bearings (that's an entirely different subject), but my experience is that the EZ Lube bearing arrangement is fine for unbraked boat trailers where the intent is to flush water out of the bearing cavity and there are no brakes to contaminate, but where drum brakes are involved, I don't trust the EZ Lube approach - pull 'em and pack 'em. YMMV Rusty From what I was told the new MobileSuites do not come with oil bath bearings. They are greasable. So does that make them EZ lube? Mine will be on the MorRyde system with Kodiak Disk Brakes. Thanks
Cummins12V98 01/23/15 08:35am Fifth-Wheels
RE: EZ Lube bearings

My current 5er uses oil bath wheel bearings (that's an entirely different subject), but my experience is that the EZ Lube bearing arrangement is fine for unbraked boat trailers where the intent is to flush water out of the bearing cavity and there are no brakes to contaminate, but where drum brakes are involved, I don't trust the EZ Lube approach - pull 'em and pack 'em. YMMV Rusty
RustyJC 01/23/15 07:51am Fifth-Wheels
replacing electric brakes

I have a 5th wheel 12 years old and am planning to replace the brakes and pack the wheel bearings and replace the hub seals. It has 2 6,000# axles and hubs are 12" 6 hole. My questions are 1. without taking it apart would the brakes be 12" x 2"? 2. Is the original electric actuator ok to use? 3. Is it best to replace the brake shoes, springs etc, or purchase the brakes installed on the 5 hole backing plate? 4. Where can the parts be purchased? 5. Is packing the bearings with Super Tech grease the correct grease to use, and should the void in the hub be filled with grease? 6. Where can the correct grease seals be purchased? I used to pack my own automobile wheels and install the brakes. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Casinojunkie 01/21/15 01:25pm Beginning RVing
RE: Is being a little over GVWR no worse than doing 60 in a 55?

Often times GVWR is limited to less than f+R awr due to brakes. We know the frame is designed for the full rating at each end, so there is something else limiting it. There are times where exceeding GVWR isn't a big deal, and other times where it is. It really just depends on what your using. Actually brakes on a vehicle ( our trucks or trailers) are determined by the axle rating; NHTSA says this about components of the GAWR: "Gross Axle Weight Rating is the rated load-carrying capacity of an individual axle and wheel assembly. (It represents the load that may be steadily sustained by the components in the system; i.e., tires, rims, hubs, bearing, axles, brakes, suspension, sub frame, etc. with the GAWR limited by the components with the lowest working rating". This is one big reason dot allows us to use the sum of the vehicles axle rating as the vehicles GVW (if required) and another reason GVWR doesn't determine how much load the truck can carry safely/legally. Many times its not the tires that is the weak link in any size truck. looking at tire/wheels/spring rate spec on Fords 150/250/350 trucks shows the wheels with the lowest rating on some trucks and others its the spring pack. Not so true on 3/4 and 1 ton pickups. The axle on my pickup is the same axle, and same brakes, as the one used on a DRW. The GAWR has a difference of 3150lbs, but only a GVWR difference of 2300lbs. Ford even discusses that brakes are sized to the GVWR in their towing brochure. "Towing vehicle’s braking system is rated for operation at GVWR"... which on any HD pickup is less than the sum of front and rear. On my TT the 5200lb axle has the same brakes as a 6K, 7K, and some 8K lbs axles. The brakes are not the limiting factor there, even the bearings are the same as the 7K axle, but a different tube/hub are on the 7K (and some 6K have the 8 lug hub). Brakes are not a determining factor on my trailer axles. This is why one must research their truck/trailer if they plan to exceed GVWR. All my research on pickups has lead me to the conclusion than brakes are based on GVWR, not FAWR+RAWR... The only time I have found it to not be true is looking at multiple GVWR's with the same brakes.. i.e. a 3/4 Ram has the same brakes as a DRW Ram in my year... or some cab configurations change GVWR for the same components. So the brakes are designed for the highest rated application. As far as DOT is concerned they don't care, at least here in Idaho, about any GVW or GAW... simply what I have registered for and what tires I have (and under 20K/axle). Beyond that it's up to me to be smart about loading. I know I have 9K worth of tires on my front axle, and I also know the axle itself can't go that high. Looking thru specs there isn't a single 3/4 or 1 ton SRW truck I can find that isn't tire limited. That takes everything into account. Most 1/2 tons are axle limited these days... in years past they have been tire limited but with all the 17-22" rims out there the tires hold a little more, even as LRB.
AH64ID 01/17/15 07:52am Towing
RE: Wheel Bearings Packed? Yearly Maintenance

I purchased my 24' tandem axle from a private party in 2012 who said new tires and bearing pack had been done earlier that year. I decided to wait til a full 2 yrs were up and do the bearings again in the spring of 2015. I don't know how far we went on a few trips, but certainly not "high" mileage. On a trip 100 miles out of town this summer (2014) the left rear wheel started smoking. Had to get a tow to tire shop where they said bearings needed repacked. So for me personally, I will do it once per year, or for certain no longer than 2 yrs if I keep track of usage closely. Just my opinion. That's one of the issues with repacking bearings. More often than not your better off just using the bearing buddy (if equipped)and leaving the bearings alone as far as dismantling everything IMHO. I can't count the number of posters who say they repack their bearings every year, every two years, etc., and when they take them out they really even didn't need repacking. I'm going the bearing buddy route and checking temps with an IR gun.
CKNSLS 12/30/14 01:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Wheel Bearings Packed? Yearly Maintenance

I purchased my 24' tandem axle from a private party in 2012 who said new tires and bearing pack had been done earlier that year. I decided to wait til a full 2 yrs were up and do the bearings again in the spring of 2015. I don't know how far we went on a few trips, but certainly not "high" mileage. On a trip 100 miles out of town this summer (2014) the left rear wheel started smoking. Had to get a tow to tire shop where they said bearings needed repacked. So for me personally, I will do it once per year, or for certain no longer than 2 yrs if I keep track of usage closely. Just my opinion.
retiredcamper2011 12/30/14 11:26am Travel Trailers
RE: Is grease/lubrication a DIY on your rig?

Front Wheel Bearing Repack requires removing the Brake Caliper THEN the Caliper Mounting Bracket. That's two big metric bolts with a high torque spec and 21mm fastener head (13/16" will work but you must tap it onto the bolt head). Then the Rotor will come off to give access to the Inner Bearing and Grease Seal. The Outer Grease Cap can be hard to remove since it's down in a cavity on DRW vehicles. I've found I can work it loose with one jaw of a 10" Channel Lock pliers, used as a pry. My point is: Some shops will re-pack only the easily accessible Outer Bearing. The right job requires doing BOTH bearings, and almost certainly the Seal.
j-d 12/10/14 04:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: The reason for falling oil prices explained (maye)

Oil boom here. Every rental and motel full. House value went up $60,000 in the last year (means nothing unless you sell it) property taxes to follow. However, cost to pack trailer wheel bearings went up to $350 from $250. Fuel injector replacement estimate went up $1000. Discount on annual diesel smog test went out the window. BEER went up! Grocery stores and restaurants prices are soaring. Health insurance on the rise. But, my Social Security is going up a whopping 2%! Lower gas prices mean practically nothing. Whoa! BEER went up? NOW we have to do something!!! ;-)
jfkmk 11/16/14 11:17am General RVing Issues
RE: The reason for falling oil prices explained (maye)

Oil boom here. Every rental and motel full. House value went up $60,000 in the last year (means nothing unless you sell it) property taxes to follow. However, cost to pack trailer wheel bearings went up to $350 from $250. Fuel injector replacement estimate went up $1000. Discount on annual diesel smog test went out the window. BEER went up! Grocery stores and restaurants prices are soaring. Health insurance on the rise. But, my Social Security is going up a whopping 2%! Lower gas prices mean practically nothing.
ChopperBill 11/16/14 10:39am General RVing Issues
RE: GM 14-bolt FF Rear End with 149k miles

It has been my experience that differentials are not very prone to wearing out... although I did have a friend that was able to grenade the front Dana 30 in his jeep 3 times before he finally upgraded to a Dana 44 (A Dana 30 doesn't care for 36" Swamper tires). At 150K I would guess the clutches are worn out but once the clutch pack is gone it should function at a regular differential for just about ever. A 20 year old differential should not be very expensive at the local junk yard if it does blow up on you but being stranded sucks! When I upgraded the front of my 67 F100 with an 82 Ford 1 ton front end with power steering I think I paid all of $200 for the rear Dana 60 so my front and rear bolt patterns would match. I would look at the wheel bearings before I fretted over the diff too much. Changing the bearings in an axle generally isn't too difficult. The full floaters I have worked on had C clips holding the axles in the carrier in the diff so I had to remove the diff cover to get the axles out. Some axles lubricate the wheel bearings with the diff oil and don't require packing with grease.
oughtsix 11/15/14 02:09am Tow Vehicles
Fall Maintenance

As much as I absolutely HATE to say goodbye to camping for the long Winter, getting the TT ready for cold weather eventually has to be done. Monday is my day off so this past Monday I got my compressor and blew out the water pipes and then took the TT down to my local RV shop for them to do the rest. My checklist was as follows: Check roofRe-pack wheel bearingsCheck brakesClean and lube slideReplace exterior rubber gasket around bedroom door (it fell off this past Summer during one of our travels) When I get it back I will put RV anti-freeze in all the pea traps and in the black tank, and then put on my wheel covers and cover my power jack for the Winter. The trees here in Easter Oregon have only just begun to lose their leaves and I'm already longing for Spring! :) What does your Fall check-list look like?
LeBout 10/15/14 10:06am Travel Trailers
RE: Wheel Bearing OR Brake Failure?

My questions: 1. Is the wire chafing a possible cause and have others observed this problem? 2. Are wheel bearing failures common and what are the typical causes (besides lack of grease and overloaded)? 3. What additional inspections / maintenance might stop these failures? Davideh 1. No...wire shorting would cause less braking...depending on your controller...you will get a fault message. Is it possible that your breakaway switch has been accidentally pulled?/ or faulty? 2. Not with regular maintenance. 3. If the breakaway system hasn't been active for some reason...I really cannot offer much. You say it's been on the curb side both time...has it been the same axle? If it's only been one spindle...then that would draw my attention next. Personally, I would start by picking a pet axle...replace both brake assemblies, install new Timken bearing cones and races as a pair, new quality double lipped grease seal...remove ALL the old grease. Get NEW grease and pack those bearing FULL of grease with a packing tool... Dexter axle has a list of recommended grease... I believe AL-KO just recommends a NGLI #2 with Lithium based soaps...and a minimum drop point of 400 degrees F. Don't mix greases...pick one of the recommended greases and stick with it. Follow the mfg. instructions for proper sequence for tightening the axle nut. Adjust the brakes following the mfg. instructions. Now...when you start towing...make a stop occasionally. Go back and put your hand on the axle hub...are they all running cool...do you have a hot one? Is it your pet axle or the other one? You have to figure out how to pinpoint the location of the problem...if there is one. Do your axles become submerged at all? I'm kinda at a loss...because carefully serviced axle hubs, done on an annual basis, that don't get submerged in water --- have NEVER been a problem that I know of. If someone puts in cheap bearings...or under-rated bearings...over tighten or under tighten the axle nut...you can start to have problem...but you're looking at catastrophic problems.
chuggs 10/14/14 01:20pm Tech Issues
Brakes AND Bearing

Just wanted to know if I have the basics, fixing to check the brakes and bearings on my new to me (and 1st) rv (5ver) jack up and place stands in proper location, remove drum and hand pack bearings (been some time but I think I remember) inspect brake pads (similar inspection as car drum brake ??) (clean up with brake cleaner ??) replace and adjust via the star wheel method as described in a help video, anything else while I am in there ??? suggestions also I hope this is the correct forum?
g4sbrg 10/10/14 01:04pm Tech Issues
RE: 5th wheel rebuild from major water damage

Sorry to have taken so long to get these new photos posted of the "finished" product. We got distracted with actual camping!!! It kind of felt like a miracle that the RV actually got put back together enough to actually camp in. There is still work to do until it is closer to perfect (mostly on the inside) but it has come such a long way! The RV repair guy had to get the RV completely level and do a little more sanding but was then able to get the front cap back on nicely. Being out of level was our main problem with gettting the fiberglass front cap back in place. Note to anyone trying this at home MAKE SURE YOUR RV IS TOTALLY LEVEL BEFORE STARTING!!!! We thought it was good enough sitting basically level in the gravel driveway. THIS IS NOT OK when rebuilding! Leveling could have saved us zillions of hours of frustration and $$$ if we would have known this before starting. We may not have been able to fully fix the problem at our house because our only spot to work on the RV was a gravel drive. But it certainly would have been better. The repair guy said they use floor jacks to jack up the RV all around in different spots to get it totally level BEFORE they start working on them. MAKE SURE AND DO THIS FOR YOURSELVES! Overall it looks pretty good. Up close you can see there has been some work done to the RV but thats OK it works! In case you are wondering the RV repair guy charged us about $600 to complete it and put it back together including putting the cap back on and hanging the interior cabinets over the bed. We also had him pack the bearings, and put 4 brand new tires and replace the hubcaps and check the breaks on the trailer. Lastly he had a bugger of a time getting the gooseneck adapter off. It was welded on and the installers had cross threaded the bolt so it wasn't coming off easy. We had to pay for an hour of labor for that one. Worth it for us because we don't want to crawl in the bed of the truck to hitch every time. We really like a 5th wheel instead of a gooseneck. We will get the adapter retapped and sell it. Total bill from the repair center for repairs and new tires etc $1166.92 http://i.imgur.com/blbKBlsl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eD6ptSTl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UvGZcT5l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RsOiciSl.jpg
LangsRV2 10/06/14 08:30am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Grease in New Brake Assemblies

After the first year on crappy brakes I pulled the hubs and their was grease everywhere, I replaced with $20 seals instead of the 5 dollar brand that was installed at the factory. My hubs cannot be over serviced.. This is the single biggest cause of this with axle manufactures cutting costs wherever they can as does every other manufacture. There are better "double lip", spring reinforced seal-sets available for installation AND there are better quality wheelbearing lubes available that have a higher melt point but the axles manufactures will revert to using the cheaper products every single time. They will also not train their people to properly "pack" wheel bearings during the build process but simple allow them to pressure feed those hubs after they are completely assembled with a pneumatic grease gun that serves to fill the hub cavity with cold grease that forces it's way out past the rear seal before your new hub has even made one revolution in travel. In short: your brakes were "sabotaged" before they even left the factory by some kid paid minimum wage during the final assembly process at Lippert or Dexter before the axles were band strapped, palleted together and shipped off to some warehouse for re-distribution. This whole debacle gets further compounded by 'well meaning' but errant dealer staff again attempting to pressure pump more cold grease into cold hubs as a PDI step. Disassembly and inspection upon delivery with changeout of the rear seals to better quality double lip spring assisted seals, hand packing of the bearings along with later judicious use of a grease gun on those E-Z-Lube hubs, only after you've warmed your hubs with a few interstate miles to then use a couple of slow strokes only of a hand grease gun that is also room temp warm instead of the gun stored in the bottom cabinet under your rig where it's sat all winter is the protocol that will yield years of reliable brakes and hub service.
bstark 09/28/14 09:38am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Wheel Bearings

Just a stupid ?. If the seal doesn"t leak, where does the grease go. A high quality grease should be there forever. My car is approching 100k and I just had brakes done and I told mechanic to change bearings/seals if needed. He did not think any service at this time.In 2009 I changed my brakes to disc and new wheel bearings and seals ( came as part of a kit) have not been touched since and inspection says they are good to go. Dexter says yearly. I say every time you pull the wheel to inspect the drum brakes. Which I believe you should do but I don't have that problem so I elect to leaave well enough alone. Actually a really good question. I have only torn down a few hubs in my life with good seals and the grease was bad. Both were old hubs and the grease was more than likely made in the 50's or older. What happens is the grease gasses off its light solvents. When this happens the grease gets and feels like wax. It's dry and cakie. (Is that a word??) I just tore a hub apart the other day and it was on a factory pack of around the early 70's. The grease was in fine shape. I don't think the greases of today will gas off like they did years ago. Even if they did it would take a VERY long time. I pull my hubs about every 7 years and inspect them. I have never found them to be in need of packing.
Turtle n Peeps 09/23/14 06:53pm General RVing Issues
RE: put my 19.5s on today

I suspect people are adding 19.5s to NOT push their luck. Perhaps if you think that tires are all that make the difference. They are certainly the weakest link, but the fact is that the other parts of a 1 ton pickup are well-matched to E rated tires. Installing 19.5" tires doesn't fix the underlying problem that the truck, and therefore its axles, springs, bearings, steering, etc., are probably significantly overloaded. If all it took were airbags and G or H rated tires, there'd be no such thing as a DRW 1 ton; a SRW 1 ton with H rated tires has more than enough capacity to significantly exceed the GVWR of a 1 ton DRW with E rated tires without overloading or even stressing the G or H rated tires. It takes a lot longer to see the wear and damage caused by overloading components that take a lot more time to fail than a set of tires, but it doesn't mean that they're not loaded beyond their design limits. You should probably do a lot more research before making comments like that. Aside from tires do you the know the only difference between my SRW and a DRW of the same year? The main leaf pack of the DRW is rated 7% higher, that's it! Everything else you listed is identical. Ford and GM do similar things. Why do is everything a DRW and not a super single SRW? There is a minor benefit to the width, but one is generally above GVWR at that point. There is also public perception, same reason the all new powerstroke was made a V-8 when OTR trucks have shown us an I6 is better. Tire cost is another, as well as ride. My 19.5's ride petty good compared to my LRE's, in fact I prefer the ride in most conditions, but they are not what most people want from a ride. They also carry a 75 mph speed rating, lower than the rural interstate speed limit out here. So if you want to talk design limits then you should know what they are first. Rundown of my truck, and any 04-12 Dodge and most 03 diesels. Front axle and suspension, same 2500 to DRW. All rated at 5,200lbs(03-09) or 5500lbs (10-12)depending on year. Steering, same 2500 to 3500 DRW on diesel. DRW gas gets hydro boost that SRW doesn't have. Frame. Same, give the same wheelbase, 2500-DRW. Rear axle, all diesels 04-12 and most 03's have the same AAM 11.5" axle. The axle is rated by AAM for 10,912 lbs for SRW or DRW. Dodge give its ratings based on model from 6,010 to 9,350lbs. All under the design limit. Rear suspension. All 2500-DRW use the same mounts. For 03-09 the 2500 and 3500 SRW main spring pack is a 4/1 design and is rated at 2600lbs/in. The DRW pack is a 3/1 design rated at 2800 lbs/in. Both 3500 SRW and DRW have upper overloads rated at 1300lbs/in. For 10-12 the 2500 and 3500 DRW are unchanged, the only change is to the 3500 SRW which loses the upper overloads and switches to the 3/1 spring pack. It's actually a weaker rear suspension than the 03-09's, but in 03-09 the upper overloads where not even engaged at the OEM RAWR so there wasn't much point to them. This is your single biggest difference, aside from tires. You can see there isn't a lot of difference, and certainly nothing a pair of airbags can't handle for a SRW. All SRW HD pickups are tire and wheel limited, even the GM and Dodge gas 2500's with smaller axles. I believe all fords use the sterling 10.5" on SRW and Dana 80 on DRW. The discussion is good, let's just try to keep it as accurate as possible.
AH64ID 09/22/14 09:20pm Truck Campers
RE: wheel bearings

First a comment on RV Professionals, I have not found one yet, ok that is my rant. It depends on the type of wheel bearing. The below is from another post of mine. If you do not have an oil bath bearing or a hub bearing you many find this useful. I saved all my tools, learned the lesson never sell a tool as you get nothing for them and as soon as you sell one you need it. This is a bearing packer and does a great job. The bearings are the ones from the trailer (seals said dexter on them, bearings are from china). http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4893.jpg This is a photo of the bearing in the packer, I am using red grease, brand can be seen in the previous photo. Note that it came out right away (leading edge white, indicating very little of the grease that was used to pack the bearings a CW) http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4894.jpg http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4895.jpg Now these bearings are PACKED with grease, excess can be wiped away. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4896.jpg So.... now back together we go.... a little grease on the spindle. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4897.jpg Seal seated correctly. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4898.jpg Correct preload on the bearings and spindle nut retainer in place. To get the correct preload tighten the spindle nut while turning the drum. when the spindle nut meets resistance, stops turning with a small amount of effort (a light touch is needed), back the nut off one flat (just far enough that you can get the cotter pin through one of the openings in the castle nut retainer. If you do not under stand this get help. http://www.irv2.com/attachments/photopost/data/1515/DSC_4900.jpg
GlennLever 09/20/14 07:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Outrageous Pricing

You all are scaring me! :E I hope they can install tires and repack bearings! I just ordered 4 GY 614's and made an appointment for install and wheel bearing re-pack. Now...I shopped all over for the tires and CW had the best price $304 plus I got a $25 rebate per tire making them $279 each. The re-pack quote was $229 for our double axle Alpenlite as opposed to the $269 from the local guy. Average price from other tire sources was in the $370 range plus shipping. Here in the north corner of WA state, local dealers are most often higher priced than CW for service and many supplies. I would pay a little extra to support the local shops but not a few hundred more! Amazon is often less expensive than either when purchasing equipment/supplies etc. I did get the same ADCO cover that CW sells for $368 for $330 free shipping. Saved me $30 plus a trip south! My experience with CW is like everywhere else...shop around to see where the best deal is. PS My appointment was scheduled a month out so they must be very busy! We have not had good luck at the CW's service in Fife or Burlington, WA. The service done in Burlington CW was so bad it all had to be redone in the Mesa, AZ CW at the direction of Marcus Lemonis, CEO Camping World. Had it not been for Marcus Lemonis's intervention we probably would have had to pay over $2500 to get the work that Burlington, WA didn't do properly corrected at the Mesa, AZ CW. This all started out as out of warranty work that was to be paid for by the RV manufacturer. First they were required to do an inspection and report their findings. The Manufacturer approved the repairs which CW Burlington told us would be completed by 5:00PM. We came back at 5:00PM and they hadn't even started doing the work. Had to make a 4 hour round trip a week later to pick up the unit and later found out that hadn't done the repairs they were authorized to do. The repairs that had been authorized in Burlington, WA CW had to be done properly in Mesa, AZ. Don't know what would have happened without getting Marcus Lemonis involved. Marcus came through but it sure has left a bad taste in our mouth for the Burlington, WA CW. Before they even started to do the inspection that the manufacturer had authorized, they immediately started trying to add on other work that supposedly was needed. It was all phony.
MrVan 09/04/14 01:14pm Camping World Service and Installation
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