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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Buying Used
That's exactly why we bought NEW.
Only kidding, only kidding. When you consider ALL the "hidden" issues that could be waiting for that 1st trip, I would rank the dreaded pyramid pretty low.
I know that when I bought a 22' boat a few years ago, friends suggested that I hire a bonded "Surveyor" to examine the craft - that's what they are called - Surveyors. Wonder if there are any bonded RV Surveyors out there to check it out for you BEFORE buying.
Good Luck
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Here'n'There
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09/05/10 06:55am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How long between dumps?
Are there issues with not dumping for several months with conditions as described above (110 degrees today)?
Are you kidding!!! You're kidding, right??? Raw sewage laying in your holding tank in hot weather for months! Turning into a rock hard pyramid that'll need dynamite to get it loose for dumping. And besides, do you really want to tow around a 30 gallon bed pan with your S$$t sloshing around in it for months at a time???:( Oh man, that is reeeeeeally disgusting.....
FWIW: I dump every time we hit the road except when we're actually on the road and then every couple of day's or so.
What kill's us are the people who say they don't need to dump; that they're tanks never smell. Ah, yea they doooo!!!
Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)
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crickeydog
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09/03/10 07:29pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: What's under your tongue jack?
I made a pyramid out of pieces of treated 2x6. Top is short enough that it fits in the battery rack, then they get progressively bigger... Maybe 6 layers thick.. with 1/2 treated plywood sides...
All stuck together with nails and a lot of gorilla glue...
works great as I can use it standing up, or laying on it's side..
Will post some pictures..
Bryan
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troll3193
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09/02/10 10:43am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: very basic question
They are called 'holding' tanks so let them 'hold' until full then dump.
As stated you need the rapid flush of liquids to move any solids when dumping....high ratio of water to solids works best, otherwise you could end up with the dreaded 'pyramid'
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Old-Biscuit
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09/01/10 10:30am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: very basic question
Plus in the black tank the liquid runs out BUT the solid stays and builds the dreaded pyramid ( a solid dry stuck to the tank pile of s---) that is HARD to get out. Leave the black closed till 3/4 or more full so you have liquid to carry it all out. You can leave the gray open and the sink traps will keep the smell out. But close before you dump the black so have some gray to flush the hose after dumping the black.
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John Wayne
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08/31/10 09:15pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: stopped up!
I carry a few 4' pieces of old garden hose with me at all times. It comes in handy for breaking up the dreaded pyramid. Just be careful when carrying the used hose through the RV after using it.
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ernestfortier
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08/22/10 09:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Home made blocks for stabilizers
We have a couple sets of the plastic leveling blocks that we use when out camping on the weekends for both side to side leveling and under the stabilizer jacks on our 22' TT. Our trailer is lifted and with only two sets it requires the leveling jacks to be extended quite some distance. This has not been a problem when camping as we are just weekend warriors. It stabilizes the trailer 'good enough' and I don't have to tote around a bunch of wood blocks.
However, we also have just completed making a campsite on some private property where the TT will be used for more extended periods of time or more frequent use (as in a couple times per month during good weather). In this case I'll likely leave the TT at the private site instead of hauling it back home every weekend. At this site it would be nice to have a more stable platform.
Thus I'd like to build or maybe buy some blocks that will be left at the site. I realize this is not rocket science to screw some wood together but thought I'd see what others have done first. Or another thought would be to just buy some concrete blocks to use. It would be nice if the blocks could be left in place on the pad and I could back the trailer into the same place each time but that may be wishful thinking.
Thanks
How about some lightweight "stacker" 11" to 17" jacks?
http://imageserv8.team-logic.com/store-logic/products/3/4070/st_9485.jpg
These pyramid shaped units are economical ($28/4 pak) and this multi-product page says they are good for up to 6000 lbs per jack. Since they are tall and light, and nest together, you could maybe easily just take them where ever you go.
I went to the link because a gentleman named Larry said he used them a few days ago on this forum. He said they are far more stable, when tightened, than the standard leg jacks. I forget his exact "handle", but he gets the credit if you like the idea.
Wes
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Wes Tausend
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08/21/10 08:48pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: ??? Rid X in the black water tank???
I have used Rid-X to dissolve a brown pyramid we inherited from previous owners. And I guess you could use it in place of chemicals--I don't use chemicals, so I don't know about that. But Rid-X is designed to work over the long term. It really wouldn't be of much benefit if you're going to be emptying your tanks every 5 days.
My thoughts as well except I have started using Calgon and a small bit of non-antibacterial Dawn (not really chemicals) with 10 gallons of water before each trip. We never get close to filling up the black tank on a typical outing so this has worked for us.
If we were to stay for weeks on end we wouldn't change this strategy because the longest time you'll have "stuff" in the black tank is the period of time it takes to fill it up. Not sure how Rid-X or anything else could help in such short periods of time?
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KlipschHead281
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08/16/10 08:19am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: ??? Rid X in the black water tank???
I have used Rid-X to dissolve a brown pyramid we inherited from previous owners. And I guess you could use it in place of chemicals--I don't use chemicals, so I don't know about that. But Rid-X is designed to work over the long term. It really wouldn't be of much benefit if you're going to be emptying your tanks every 5 days.
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Chock Full o' Nuts
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08/09/10 05:17pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Great pyramid Tunnels to be explored
Here's the web site of the first guy to try sending a robot up the four mystery shafts:
http://www.cheops.org/
Lots of info if you click on the links and some great cutaway views of the pyramid tunnels.
Cheops
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SRT
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08/09/10 07:12am |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Great pyramid Tunnels to be explored
Here's the web site of the first guy to try sending a robot up the four mystery shafts:
http://www.cheops.org/
Lots of info if you click on the links and some great cutaway views of the pyramid tunnels.
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Avatab
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08/08/10 08:05pm |
Around the Campfire
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Great pyramid Tunnels to be explored
I wonder what will be behind Door # 2 (see attached story) in this pyramid ?
Robots to explore tunnels in Great Pyramid.
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lesmore49
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08/08/10 11:05am |
Around the Campfire
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RE: Full Service camping...
NO! Do NOT leave the valves open. You are inviting the dreaded "pyramid" to come visit if you do.
The tanks are designed to drain best when full. As a side note when getting ready to leave for home, always, always, always fill up both tanks to the full level and then dump black first and then gray....the gray water helps clean the hose from the black.
I have on occasion left the gray open if I was going to have a trailer full of people taking showers and the DW doing the breakfast dishes...keeps me from haveing to keep running back and forth.....
NEVER the black tho.
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Godsey97
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08/06/10 06:16pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Finished first trip, have a question of course!
if you don't add water back in(about 5 gallons), whatever didn't get emptied will harden and be much more difficult to flush out.
after being a member on this forum for 4 years, i can't believe the number of posters telling you NOT to put some water in.:h
haven't you heard of the dreaded "Poo Pyramid"?
i've seen this question asked dozens of times and the VAST majority recommends putting some water back in.
we also add Odorlos.
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bikendan
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08/06/10 12:22am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: dish soap in black water tank
The idea is to use the dish soap when moving, when you empty the black tank and ready to move, just add a little dish soap along with 3or4 gal of clean water, I usually flush several times., that will sloosh around in the tank while moving and when you hook up again just empty, it will help keep the smell down and also clean the probes.. I have done that for several years, no problems...
Plus one, I'm using Dawn, I would however recommend not using any with anti-bacteria formula as it will kill off the essential bacterias needed to help break waste down.
I never understood the anti-bacteria crowd, it builds up in the system and when you're given antibiotics they are less helpful. In a hospital I can see it, at home, nope, survived playing out doors as a kid and I got dirtier than the best of them, never had a problem.
Anyway, just for an example I just bought my rig, had black tank issues for 3 weekends straight. Tomorrow prior to heading to the CG I am putting in 10 gallons of water, 4 huge bags of ice and some dawn into the tank so while driving to the CG it will get the cleaning of a lifetime and hopefully if there is a pyramid of poop it will get cleaned out finally.
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KlipschHead281
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08/05/10 08:03am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: How to poop in your toilet.
Well - since you guys started it, putting water in the bowl makes flushing much easier, quicker and cleaner, prevents the deadly pyramid of poo and helps control the odor while you're pooping - unless, of course, yours doesn't smell!:B
- Norm
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F1bNorm
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08/04/10 11:37am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: A beep every 72 seconds lasting for years?
You are being tracked by the Feddle Gummint. They have been monitoring your internet activity and have detected your visits to subversive sites.
Have you ever looked up and seen a black helicopter when you are on the road?
.
I have heard stories of retarded aliens who can't tell the difference between a motor home and a trailer park trailer. Maybe they are tracking you for a possible abduction.
Either way, if you wear a pyramid-shaped hat covered with aluminum foil, you will no longer be tracked. Or maybe you will no longer hear the beep. Something, anyway.
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bill h
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08/03/10 08:38pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: 2011 ROO 23SS - Bouncing when walking
I have done all of the above and then some. My latest addition is to add two of those pyramid shaped screw jacks right at the axles to eliminate the bounce from the tires/suspension. That along with the Roto-chocks & stablizers has worked the best so far.
Stacker Jacks
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Champy2
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08/03/10 10:59am |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: Cool Mods
I got a package of Lynx leveler blocks and a Lynx chock. I made the system a bit more versatile by cutting one of the blocks in half. If half-blocks are used then only one side of the ramp pyramid need be built. This frees up a few of the blocks, which can be used elsewhere like under jacks and stabilizers. The half-blocks can still be used as a full block by rotating them 90 degrees such that the seam interlocks with other full blocks.
http://www.jeff-z.com/rv/mods/blocks-01.jpg
Great idea. I am going to do that to mine.
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HEMIDAZE
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08/03/10 05:18am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Windjammer 3006w and tow vehicles
I really appreciate the replies. We also have three kids 15, 13, 13, and wanted the room, but as newbies to RV-ing, I think we'll go with something lighter. Here's a question though - is it better to stick with something shorter as well as lighter (thinking a double twin bunk floorplan) or even lighter and go longer (pyramid bunk). Maybe the Rockwood 2702SS. ??
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rhaynes
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08/01/10 11:58am |
Travel Trailers
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