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gettinright

Waycross, GA ,Big Pine Key, FL

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Posted: 11/12/11 04:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a 2004 Discovery with the 330 CJ 7 and it left me 4 times and it was all fuel problems, they replaced the Pump,injector,all he fuel system several times.

Finally I got rid of it.

They finally fixed it in Albuquerque, NM at Wagner Catipillar.

RaviAuto

jaipur

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Posted: 11/18/11 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks dear for share the information. it really provide us to more help in future....

piku

Hatfield

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Posted: 11/28/11 12:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1998 Winnebago Adventurer on the Ford F53 Chassis with E4OD transmission
61,000 miles

Purchased motorhome at 58,000 miles.
Two things happened, neither of which caused us to need a tow.
At about 59,000 miles noticed that the radiator side tank was seeping. Decided to do a full cooling system overhaul as preventative maintenance and did radiator, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat, all hoses, ignition tuneup, etc. When the water pump was pulled we found that a chip was broken off of the timing cover causing us to have to replace the timing cover and increasing the price of the work significantly. This could have been caused by poor cooling system maintenance (using tap water or not performing enough coolant changes over the years).

At 61,000 miles a tapping sound got much noisier and was determined to be a leaking exhaust manifold. What actually had occurred was that a piece of the head broke off due to manifold warping on the back driver side manifold. The head needed to be replaced entirely. Very expensive job took a month and a half to get our rig back. The manifold on the other side was cracked the whole way through but wasn't making any noticeable noise. Replaced this manifold too.

Everything *seems* to be running well now though.


Geeky Nomads! travelling in our 1999 Foretravel U320 4200

wickedinns

Bridgetown

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Posted: 01/17/12 03:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is a 2002 Winnebago Sightseer with a workhorse chassis / gas engine/ chev vortec 8 (?).... my hubby and I have a 2004 Winnebago (otherwise the same). Now we are wondering if we should do the same...put an extra coolant system on ours.....

2inAlabama

Lake Whitney, TX

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Posted: 02/04/12 10:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It sure would help readers of this thread if postors would follow the format as originally suggested on first page! As below:

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

* This post was edited 02/05/12 09:34pm by 2inAlabama *


Just DH & DW
Shopping for a Foretravel U320 42 ft


okie-dokie

Southern California

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Posted: 03/01/12 08:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Made the trip to Quartzsite,AZ this year. Caterpiller engine still running, heard a lot of noise from engine area. Turned the engine off and discovered the fan bearing was blown. I had the parts on hand. Took me 2 days to replace the fan bearing,bearing housing,serpintine belt & V-belt. Most of the work done from bedroom closet area. I have a rear radiator. I only have 28,000 miles on the coach. I learned from another forum that the cat C-7 engine was prone for fan bearing problems at around 27 to 39,000 miles. That's why I ordered the parts and had them on hand. Talk about being "LUCKY". All the work I performed myself. I had scratch marks,bruises,cuts. Looked like someone beat me up with an ugly stick and then ran over me a couple of times.

Xpltivdletd

WV, U.S.A.

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Posted: 04/08/12 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

watk69 wrote:

A bedroll of some sort flew out the back of some "spring breakers" pickup truck, unfurled itself on the roadway, our choice was to swerve and possibly roll the motorhome do to heavy traffic or run over it dead center. We chose the latter.

We saw that the bedroll exited out of the rear (we thought). Within 5 miles we found out differently, a portion of it had hung around the drive shaft, taking wires, hydraulic lines with it and the transmission ground itself to bits, bringing a 32,000 lb beast to a screeching halt

We called our Road Hazard outfit, they mulled it over--said call your insurance company (office closed)---we deem it an accident. Law enforcement shows up, helps us put out our flares and cones and said "bye bye", we aren't writing anything up or reporting it, you hit road debris---not an accident.

So glad we knew people in the truck maintenence and towing industry and a kind couple from Alberta, or we would still be sitting there beside the roadway while the 2 insurance entities argued who was going to come get us.

I am sure we have a long claim battle ahead of us, any suggestions from any of you veterans out there???. At least wife and I are safe and sound---thats what counts

Rig: 2003 Revolution 38B
Chassis: Freightliner
Powerplant Cummins 350
Outcome: Uncertain


Wow. Who'd have thought it? Suddenly a driveshaft guard doesn't sound silly at all! Neither does making sure you can stop for it soon as you see it. I wish you success in getting this mess sorted out. Best regards.

popeye766

lake tx.

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Posted: 05/10/12 11:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hello Rver's
I would like to give Class A folks a wise tip on 454 cooling as i notice many have cooling problems.
I no longer have my 87 allegro 454 but it could run hotter than i liked climbing Long grades 205+ at altitude pullung a car and would never give up pulling in 3rd gear. Maybe 35 but never give up. I never want an older 454 running over 200 degrees.
My solution that REALLY works is.....i built a water sprayer system to spray water on the rad. and trans cooler at the push of a button on the dash......It dropped the eng temp by 25 degrees almost instantly. i now had the confidence i needed that i would never overheat again. A 454 installation because of being burned up from overheating would cost 5 to 10 thousand...OR junk your Class A.
Common parts-- yard sprayer nozzels and 4 port manifold mounted in front of the Rad, from wallmart garden. Plastic tubing running back to the Rv main tank , and a Rv water pump, appropriate wiring.
Little investment.....Great insurance.
Popeye766 USN RET.

GBomkamp

St. Louis Missouri

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Posted: 06/08/12 03:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV particulars: (venerable)Safari Sahara
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 6sp
Miles: 109000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: warning read out on dash – – "Do not shift"
Symptoms: no go – – drifted to roadside
Effect: nonfunctional electronic transmission – – limped back to Harlingen, Texas on house batteries charged by the generator. Apparently, an Allison MD 3060 transmission will not function without electrical power. Who knew?
Cause: alternator failure followed by insufficient power in the battery to run the transmission.
Outcome: replaced alternator next day, good to go.

dennis45

BC

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Posted: 06/09/12 10:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RV particulars: 40' Dutchstar, 3 Slides
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 8.3ISC/Allison MH3000 Miles: 58,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Check Engine Light, Loss of Power

Heading south on I25 in Nov/11 and check engine light came on resulting in a drop in power but engine did not die. Pulled over to side and found all pressure/temps normal. Shut off engine, check fluids & found coolant low in the plastic overflow tank. topped up coolant, started engine and carried on down the road. On the way north in March just out of Phoenix problem occured again. Pres/Temp all normal. Fluid levels good.
Had Cummins check ($200) and they could not find any faults. Diagnosis: Must be an electrical fault. Long story short, Removed, cleaned every chassis electrical I could find & reassembled with dielectric grease. Have not had a problem since. Touch wood..
One thing I found out is the Low Coolant Sensor does not have its own dedicated light and will show up as a Check Engine Fault.
The sensor is loacted on the "Flow" side of the expansion tank and I believe an intermitent fault may be happening due to a change in speed/load if there is a rush of fluid into the tank. It is just enough to "Bump" the system and cause a fault. Shutdown & re-start clears it until next time.
Ya, I know. Too much information, I'll quit now. Happy Trails!!


Dennis & Carol
2003 Dutchstar 40' 3 Slides, 8.3L ISC W/banks Kit 465HP,
Spartan Chassis
2013 Honda CRV Toad


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