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Topic: Breakdown Information

Posted By: Badeye on 12/10/03 06:42am

Moderators Note: This thread is intending to report a problem and its resolution. If you are seeking help or information to help you resolve a problem you would best be served by initiating a thread on the class A forum proper

After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.

What do you think?

* This post was last edited 02/07/08 04:35pm by an administrator/moderator *


"No one can guarantee success, only effort."

Bob & Fran
2005 Coachmen Sportscoach Elite 40 ft DP
2012 Chevy Malibu
Ready Brute Tow Bar
Ready Brake Tow Brake
FMCA F324606


Posted By: Ames on 12/10/03 07:04am

Most diesel engine breakdowns are probably fuel delivery problems or elictrical.

Most gas engine breaksowns are overheating including vporlock or electrical.

Biggest cause for breakdown is flat tires.


Richard and Babs and a Bob Tail Cat
97 Beaver Patriot 40 Kitchen Slide
330 HP Member FMCA, BAC, Good Sam, CAT RV Club
Toad 2012 Dodge Durango RT AWD Hemi


Posted By: denarmstrng on 12/10/03 07:07am

RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Imperial 40 wds
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 325 C8.3, Alison md3060
Miles: 58,000
Year: 1998
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: No air
Effect: can’t drive
Cause: Governor
Outcome: Replaced governor

I had the rig loaded up wife in her seat with the wiener dogs opened the gates started the motor up and the air pressure wouldn’t come up. Walked in circles for a minute and thought hey I’ll call my friend Louie; he’s a diesel mechanic and only works a block from my house. Called him up told him my problem and he says I’ll be there in 5 minutes. Well Louie showed up looked at the motor and diagnosed my problem to be the governor. He said here take off these three air lines and these two nuts and I’ll be back in 5 minutes. He came back in 5 minutes and handed me a part and said here put this where you took the other one off, wait for the air to come up to 120 p.s.i. and adjust the pressure with the screw in the back. I did and it worked fine.

* This post was edited 07/28/05 08:00am by denarmstrng *


1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40 WDS
Dennis and Jelly and 2 red headed Mini-Rottweilers aka Wiener Dogs



Posted By: FredC on 12/10/03 08:27am

I have had one breakdown, and it was a converter that went out. I was fortunate enough to drift into a campground, but it was unsettling at the least.

I hope my luck continues, because we make two trips 'cross country per year.


Posted By: JohnnyT on 12/10/03 09:31am

Badeye, I think this is an excellent idea... I just hope I am not a contributor...
Thanks
JohnnyT


2004 40DS02 Travel Supreme ISL 400
Jeep Grand Cherokee
M&G Brake & Break Away
Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow bar



Posted By: Lil Truckr on 12/10/03 09:45am

Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.

Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.

All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.

I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.

I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.


Lil Truckr

'08 GMC 4X4 2500HD
'08 Cougar 28' Fiver.
Perfect for me, the wife and our three cats.

Those who are too smart to engage in politics are punished by being governed by those who are dumber. ~Plato!


Posted By: Burfman on 12/10/03 10:32am

It happened to me only once. We had just bought our rig and was heading down to Tombstone for the weekend with a few friends. Just outside Casa Grande, AZ the engine burped and the yellow warning light came on. The engine kept running but was a little low on power. As we kept on driving I called Country Coach and they got the experts together and came to the conclusion the we experienced a sensor failure in the fuel management system. "Get to Cummins as soon as you can" they told me and they will install the update on the engine. Made it to the Cummins dealer in Tucson and they didn't have the parts so we turned around and nursed it back to Phoenix. Cummins in Phoenix fixed the problem, all under warranty and so far that is the only scare we have had. I try to do all my own maintenance and keep a close eye on potential problems, however with a complicated rig such as these motorhomes are it is a moumental task.

Note to Lil Trucker:
From the description of you post it sounds like a loose wire on the hot side to the ignition switch. The bump caused it to break connection and after some fiddeling with things contact was made again. Try checking all screws and especially the plugs that connect the harnesses together. Good luck.


Bill & CJ
'99 CC Allure
Enjoying it while we can!


Posted By: big dave on 12/10/03 10:53am

RV particulars: Safari
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.2 Detroit
Miles: 80k
Year: 90
Break Down Description: Shut off for lunch & wouldn't start
Symptoms: Runs good but wouldn't start
Effect:
Cause: Fuel solenoid contacts not making
Outcome: Replaced fuel solenoid, it turns out that the contacts in the solenoid can be cleaned and the solenoid re-used. it takes a 1/4" allen wrench to remove it, and it is found on the side of the governor.

* This post was last edited 12/11/03 12:49am by big dave *


Dave & Rose C
90 Safari Ivory 34' DP
04 Saturn VUE V6


Posted By: Ames on 12/10/03 11:05am

Two Different Motorhomes:

First New Year's Day 1999 in the Lower Keys went to start and air had gotten into fuel delivery system when we tried to start in campground. Service done Jan 2 through RV Road Help Sign and Drive

Two Front tire catastrofic tire failures:
First North of Tampa 32000 miles on tire no spare and ruined Al Rim. Olsen Truck Tire whom we had purchased six tires from refused to do road service because we did not have corporate account. Olin Mott Tires brought tire and found rim and were very helpful. Tire maker was very generous in adjustment and damages caused to coach. Was (not a Michelin tire) and Olson Firestone are never getting any more of our business (think now Service Plus or something like that now) Olin Mott has and will continue to get our business.

Second Tire East of Jacksoville, wheel was usuable but scared again no new tire dealer was as nice as Olin Mott, Tampa and FHP called provider who required cash and sold us a used square tire for $100 plus service. After promising to refund tire cost if I left it at a new tire dealer and after writing the FHP (a month later) he sent me a money order and a thankyou note expressing thanks for me getting the FHP to remind him to send me a refund. Again the tire maker (who we cannot name because we agreed not to tell the name as part of settlement) stood up and took care of the damages.

Sorry not in specific order requested but I do not care what grade you give me.


Posted By: nantra on 12/10/03 02:07pm

driveline 454 Chevy 3 spd AT
Make Fleetwood Bounder
Yr. 87
Symptoms: wouldn't start sometimes.
effect: just wouldn't start
cause: relay under the dog house
outcome: replaced relay starts fine.

John and Nancy Bradley
87 Bounder 34'(ANGEL)


John and Nancy Bradley
87 Bounder 34'(ANGEL)


Posted By: Badeye on 12/10/03 02:48pm

Thanks for the inputs. I will start tabulating the data and when we get several, I will put out a summary. Keep them coming. Any breakdowns that you had in the past couple of years will be helpful. Also any new ones, but we hope they are few.

If you find several days that I do not chime in, it is because I am on business travel and sometimes do not have internet access if I am traveling international.


Posted By: njdirt on 12/10/03 03:08pm

add me to the same symptoms and fix as Nantra had except;
Ford 460(trans-unsure)
29000 +/-
96 Alegro Bus


Bob/Marlene and Crystal(Golden Retriever)and sometimes Grandkids....
37' Alllego Bay
dirts for racing/asphalt's for getting there


Posted By: Bartviii on 12/10/03 03:26pm

Had just bought used Monaco Windsor, DP and had left Mountain View AR, and had drive approximately 60 miles (in mountains) and got to St. Joe AR on two lane road (Hwy 65) and lost all power. Engine would idle, transmission would shift but throttle pedal had no effect on engine. Called Cummings, and they told me to check the KING CONTROL, which operates remotely from the throttle pedal. I checked it by manually moving the fuel input level and the engine functioned normnally. I called King Controls, who sent me a new one overnight at the cost of @500+. I installed it and it worked fine until I got back to Florida and then malfunctioned again. I again contacted King Control and they sent me another one. I installed that one and it has worked good for two plus years.


Ken & Jo Ann 1997 Monaco Windsor
FMCA 188386, 1995 Nissan Pick-up toad


Posted By: AlanC on 12/10/03 04:09pm

RV particulars:92 Dynasty 36'
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 8.3 TI 250HP, 6 spd Allison MD3060
Miles:58000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Catastrophic failure of left front wheel bearing while doing 65 mph, 300 miles after I had paid a F. L. dealer to repack them both sides
Symptoms: Felt like a blow out and that I was riding on the rim
Effect: came very close to losing control
Cause: some ?@$&#*^!! idiot not doing the job correctly
Outcome: Had to have spindle, hub, bearings replaced. Keep both hands on the wheel now at all times, except when stopped. I will now provide service centers with manufacturer's service info (procedures, torques, etc) when having work this done. I will get service facility to write exactly what they did, so I will have documentation.


Posted By: waltbens on 12/10/03 06:14pm

2001 Winnebago Journey DL. 330 Cat, 3000 MH Allison.
Vehicle still very new, near Palmdale, CA.
Hit a DIP in the road, after which the front end bottomed.
An 8-inch arm had come loose from the anti-dive air valve.
Held on by a flimsy grommet; happened 3 more times over 2 years, but I recognized it each time immediately. East to put back on, inboard of the right front wheel.

Same trip, the fuel gauge went to "0" in the middle of that desert, 100+ degrees. Kept on truckin'. Started the genset, which ran longer than a minute, telling me the fuel tank/quantity was OK.
Next engine start fuel read OK, one air tank read low.
It was a CADC or something like that---other indications were low oil pressure. Always something different, till I got to Freightliner.
They overnighted one in, no charge. Happened again a year later.
Again, overnighted and replaced at no charge.


2003 Imperial, 400 Cummins ISL; '96 Town & Country. Full-timer and loving it.


Posted By: Badeye on 12/10/03 07:17pm

Please note the original post has been edited. At the suggestion of Big Dave I have added an area for a description of the problem that might aid those who read it. We will continue to improve it until it becomes really useful. Thanks for the help.


Posted By: strudle on 12/11/03 08:32pm

Date of incident July 5, 2003
RV particulars: Sportscoach lll
Driveline Chevy 454 turbo 400
Miles:75,000
Year:1986
Break Down Description: Engine Fire
Symptoms: Engine Temp Gauge went to zero, about 15 miles from Menomee,MI about 10 miles from town heard "whoossing sound" then when we entered town and stopped at first traffic lite, front of coach was covered up with Smoke & Steam
Effect: Engine fire burned wires and vacuum lines on top of engine, carb damaged.Replaced hose section, added water to radiator and drove to a city owned CG.
Cause: Heater return hose at engine block ruptured and sprayed a fine mist of engine coolant onto top of engine. Fire started when we stopped at traffic lite. Until that point coolant had vaporized with airflow, but with no airflow when stopped exhaust manifold heat ignited anti-freeze.
Outcome: Replaced all hoses & lines on top of engine , replaced carburator, replaced several electrical comnnectors, replaced charcoal canister (fire travelled down hose and blew out bottom of canister) Replaced # 6 & 8 spark plug wires. Insurance job, but we spent 11 days in MI waiting fire inspector and Chevy Dealer to fix it.


Strudle
86 Sportscoach lll
Bilsteins
Safe T Plus
Bridgestones


Posted By: JDelauter on 12/12/03 05:53am

RV particulars:
Driveline Cummins 275 Allison 6-spd
Miles: 37000
Year:1999 Coachmen Sportscoach
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-10, 150 miles from Houston. Engine overheating. Coolant level fine. Slowed to 60 m.p.h. and stopped dash a/c. Made it to California to a Cummins dealer. Split exhaust manifold. Turbo shot. Hole in turbo exhaust pipe. Engine side of radiator blocked with gunk because Freightliiner does not install the road exhaust tube to prevent oil blow-by after moving the radiator to the rear of the engine. Total cost to me: $4300 out-of-pocket. Story gets better as I am headed home (Florida). Bottom line: $7300 from me, zero from extended warranty or Cummins.
Symptoms: Overheating
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome


Retired SMCM(MDV) USN 30 years
3 'Nam Tours
As of 11/04 Full-Timing with:
2003 Gulfstream Friendship, Quad slide
1 lovely wife
and 1 sassy Bichon
JDelauter@aol.com



Posted By: Badeye on 12/12/03 06:21am

Spalding12,

This is the second thing that I am hoping we can do with this thread if it goes well. If we can start to collect enough data that we can see trends, then my future plans are to contact the manufacturer(s) concerned and share the data with them. Hopefully, they can make sometimes small changes that will prevent further recurrance and maybe we will find some cheap fixes for those of us who have units now. I have already been successful in one instance with one manufacturer. All that was required was the changing of how some wiring was connected, no additional cost to the manufacturer other than changing some drawings and an assembly instruction.

This gives me something to do that is productive as I try to wind down my consulting business (not computers or related to the RV business) and have more time available. I have started setting up a database but that is not easy if I want to be able to search out specific problems later.

Please keep the information coming.


Posted By: wileecoyote985 on 12/12/03 09:47am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 4 spd
Miles:58,000
Year:1993
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after overnight stay
Effect: No start condition
Cause: Mis-adjusted shift linkage
Outcome: started normally when shifter moved to neutral position. Readjusted linkage after reaching destination. Problem solved.


wile e


Test pilot for Acme products
'93 Southwind DP, Oshkosh Chassis
5.9 190 hp Cummins, 4 spd Allison


Posted By: kd7cxg on 12/12/03 12:30pm

RV Particulars: Winnebago Brave 30W
Driveline: GM 8.1L W/4L80E Transmission
Miles: 16K+
Year: 2002

Breakdown description: Stopped at rest area on I90 near Bule Earth, Mn to eat lunch. When we were ready to leave the MH would not start.
Symptom: With key turned to start position nothing would happen.
Effect: Had MH towed to authorized WorkHorse service center in Truman, Mn.
Cause: Ignition switch had melted, no other problem found.
Outcome: Ignition switch replaced, continued on trip.


2002 Winnebago Brave 30W 8.1L
TOADS: 2004 Jeep Liberty, 2010 Toyota Corolla
Brazels Ultra Power Mod(CAI,ECM,Aero Turbine Mufflers,Plugs & Wires)
Rear Trac Bar,Safe-T-Plus,UltraTrac Bellcrank
Park Brake Upgrade Kit
Good Sam Lifetime Member
FMCA F277504



Posted By: bob_b on 12/12/03 12:34pm

Quote:

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 4 spd
Miles:58,000
Year:1993
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after overnight stay
Effect: No start condition
Cause: Mis-adjusted shift linkage
Outcome: started normally when shifter moved to neutral position. Readjusted linkage after reaching destination. Problem solved.


wile e


I have exact same setup('93)/Cummins 5.9/Allison 4-spd) and ran into the exact same problem. This had happened while I was tying up the island at busy gas station. I was losing popularity quick! Luckily, I had experienced this problem before with a beat up Oldsmobile in high school and knew what the problem was. It was still un-nerving.


I now push the stick into FIRMLY into Park so that the neutral saftey switch doesn't prevent the engine from starting.


'93 Itasca Suncrusier diesel towing a '05 Honda CR-V.
Bob, Pam(DW), Bridget(DD) and Christine(DD)
See you at most of the Penn State tailgates



Posted By: kd7cxg on 12/12/03 12:51pm

This breakdown happened about one year later than the previous post.
Symptom: MH hard to start, starter solenoid would click but starter would not turn engine over. Sounded like a low battery. After 3 to 5 clicks engine would turn over and start. Decided to wait until it completely quit before I had it fixed. Lasted all the way from somewhere in Indiana to Oregon. I pulled into the driveway to unload, then backed out in the street, turned around to back into the drive so I could dump the holding tanks. Finished with that and started to move the MH again and nothing happened.
Effect: Called WorkHorse again. They sent a tow truck and had it towed to Valley RV, just outside McMinnville, Or.
Cause: Melted ign sw again. This time they also found that the neutral safety sw was bad, causing the ign sw to get hot.
Outcome: Ign sw and neutral safety sw replaced. Hope this is the end of this problem.


Posted By: Badeye on 12/13/03 10:38am

Checking on new posts. Should get started on putting data in a database sometime next week. Will keep all posted.


Posted By: Horst on 12/13/03 06:14pm

Hello Jack, while your coach is still under warranty (I assume) take it to Freightliner and have them analyze the engine and other systems to find the cause of that intermittent problem. Although, it the symptoms are intermittent, the cause might be a constant and could possibly be found. That would then probably prevent this thing from happening again. Did you sign up for the Tiffin Rally in Michigan in 2004? I cannot go, we plan to leave for AK on June 1.

Horst


Almost everything in life is negotiable!

Horst and Hertha
WB8YRY
68/68 years young
2003 Phaeton 38GH
Toad: '03 4x4 Chevy TrailBlazer


Posted By: gMw on 12/14/03 05:04am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9, Allison 5 spd
Miles: 16,993
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Engine wouldn't start after refueling. Dash lights work, key switch works, starter motor – nothing (no sound, no turn, nothing). Batteries fully charged, everything else working normally.
Effect: Engine will not start, towed to Frieghtliner...
Cause: Bad starter motor
Outcome: Starter replaced, now starts normally. Problem solved!!


George & Laraine
Nashua, NH
2002 Journey DP, Freightliner Chassis, Cat 330
2003 Jeep Liberty


Posted By: pulsar on 12/14/03 09:24am

RV particulars: 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V – Workhorse W-20 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.

Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.

Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA

Tom


2008 Journey 37H
2006 CR-V toad

Have you seen the RV.Net Blogs? You can subscribe at Blog.RV.Net



Posted By: bobpie on 12/14/03 11:44am

RV particularsouthwind 32-K
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):454-4bbl
Miles:48000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: engine popping and backfireing under load,( going uphill)
Effect: a pulsation feel in the coach and a popping sound while driving up some grades. Cause:never really found out. I did change all the plugs & wires, cap,rotor,ignition control module
Outcome:This did work for a while but the problem came back after about 2 to 3,000 miles. Also I did replace burned out #8 plug wire twice during this problem time frame. Traded in the coach with 52,000 miles


2001 suncrusier, 32-v, Ford V10, 4 Koni FSD, dinning slide, No leaks, 1 wife, 1 westie, life is good! 03 malibu toad sometimes, roadmaster brake pro,roadmaster Blackhawk all terrain tow bar!


Posted By: bobpie on 12/14/03 11:57am

RV particulars:Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Triton V-10, 4 speed with OD
Miles:7580
Year:2001. Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:In heavy rain the engine would misfire and the check engine light came on. I pulled over 3 times under bridges and drained the breather element and filter, full of water.
Effectater ingestion through the air intake Causeoorly designed air intake system. Ford TSB (tecnicle service bulletin) Outcome:Took her to the ford delership and they installed a plastic shroud around the air intake opening, no charge. They also checked out the air sensor and said it was OK. My check engine light rests itself after 3 engine cycles. Cold start, reach operation temp, shut down,cool down, do again.


Posted By: campingshadow on 12/14/03 05:56pm

RV particulars: 2002 Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.

I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.

Shadow


Shadow

2003 Cedar Creek 5th wheel 36RLTS
Miss Ellie's RV Park -resident manager



Posted By: Impetuous on 12/14/03 08:31pm

Engine: 454 Chev.
Miles: 36,000
Year: 1994 Pace Arrow

Symptoms: Lost all power
Effect: Would run at idle only, just able to pull to side of road
since we were going up a long hill
Cause: Throddlecable broke
Outcome: Was towed to a campground in Bullhead City, AR. It was
Saturday and nothing open so waited until Monday, went to
Napa. They found one and had it the next morning. I
installed the cable and was back on the road by 11am.

Jim


2003 Beaver Monterey 40
Cummins 350 ISC
2005 Saturn Vue
Blue Ox
Brake Buddy
King Dome IN Motion
DVR


Posted By: Dick A on 12/14/03 11:07pm

RV particulars: Rexhall F-53 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460, E40D transmission
Miles: 32,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (2002) Engine stalled on warm day at St. Charles, MO
Symptoms: engine popping and backfiring, no power.
Effect: Engine hot and stalled - symptom was like vapor lock.

Outcome: Let engine cool. Engine then started and made it to RV park (Sundermier). Stayed a few days, checked all fluids, changed fuel filter on frame rail. Continued trip. Would run ok as long as we were at highway speeds. Would stall sometimes when pulling off to fuel. Managed to get home a week later after a stop in Wyoming. We had the thermostat changed there, but no help. I had ordered a full Banks system before leaving for trip. During subsequent installation, found radiator plastic tank seal broken. Replaced radiator. Also, several exhaust manifold bolts broken, causing excessive heat in the engine area. Probably causing vapor lock problems. Replaced one head with broken manifold flange, had all valves replaced on both heads, water pump, hoses, fan clutch, etc. Changed all fluids to synthetic, added B & M extra capacity transmission pan and transmission temperature gauge. No problems in 2003 traveling over 8500 miles. Preventative maintenance before 2004 trip: Replace in-tank fuel pump known for early failure.


2009 Tiffin 43QBP Allegro Bus
RoadMaster Sterling Tow Bar
US Gear UTB
Ford Explorer Sport Toad
"Pisqually" the attack kitty


Posted By: wa0mqe on 12/15/03 07:01am

RV particulars: 24 foot Safari Trek
Driveline (454 GM w/ 4L80E 4-speed
Miles: 16,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: Would not start after stopping to dump.
Symptoms: Turned Key to start but nothing
Effect: Setting at the dump station blocking traffic. Was able to start engine with aux battery switch. Drove home.
Cause: corrosion on battery cable connector
Outcome: Had battery checked at auto-store for capacity. Checked
okay, cleaned battery cables and posts real good. No problem since.

Bob Bowers


Posted By: larmcintsh on 12/15/03 11:06am

Engine 5.9 Cummins
Transmission 3000 six speed
RV 1994 Monaco Dynasty
Was driving on Highway 54 in Oklahoma, by Guyman. It was raining, and all of a sudden thought I had a blow out in the rear tire. Lost all air pressure and steering. What had happened was the sewer hose which was in a PV pipe. The rear cap came out, and the hose wrapped around the drive line. It cut all air hoses, and hydraulic lines. The road hardly any shoulder. Of course, all air bags lost air, emegency brake came on. Called Monaco, they said it was road hazard, ha. Anyway was towed into Guyman, and was three days getting back on the road. Have since moved sewer hose. If anyone has a sewer hose back there move it. Larry





Posted By: nathan on 12/15/03 01:08pm

Badeye, Thanks for starting this thread. I think we could write a book on breakdowns the last 2 1/2 years including failed slidout and tire blow out but will just recap two major ones.

1. 260 Cummins 5.9 engine Spartan Summit Chassis
Allison five speed
10100 miles
2001 Travel Supreme

Sympton: temp gauge starting increasing when we were leaving early one morning from traveling in the mountains. Engine shut down. Re-started and same thing happened. Finally started third time and with a highway patrol escort got one mile to safe place to park before shut off again. Saturday late we finally got a tow truck recomeded by Cummins and towed us 30 miles across mountain to Spartan Chassis Approved repair facility. A word of caution here, be sure the tow company has a vehicle that tows motor homes!
Cause: It took Repair shop one month to determine it was a broken serpintine belt! They replaced it and Cummins recomended we take to their facility and have checked out and they determined it was from a defective idler which they replaced. I carry a spare serpintine belt now.

2. Same motor home with 21,350 miles.
Sympton: While taking pleasure ride with mother in law we smelled diesel fuel. We were near an exit and pulled over. Looked underneath and diesel fuel gusshing out. Shut engine off and tried to locat a Cummins or Spartan Repair shop late on Sunday. You guessed it , no luck and cell phone about to go dead. Luck had it we located a RV technican that services the busses for Clemson University.
Cause. One of the fuel lines had worked loose and was almost impossiable to get to. Finally got tightend enough to get to his shop and spend most of eveining trying to fix. Fixed to where we could get on highway. Called Cummins first thing next day and took to their faciliy where they did a through job tighting all lines and steam cleaning engine. You should have smelt the diesel. Everything fine now.

Tried to keep these descriptions to the minimum, just the high lights of the story and to advise if you have a problem withCummins/Spartan look for Cummins first because my experience with Spartans auth repair facility have not been good.


Nathan & Becky Smith
2014 Allegro Open Road 31SA
2008 Saturn


Posted By: rooster on 12/15/03 02:53pm

Badeye, good idea. Mine are as follows:
Cat. 3126
Allison
22,000 miles
Alternator needle started going "down"
After awhile, engine was running, but shifting was getting erratic
Cause was a failing Leece Neville alternator
Freightliner dealer in Waco Tx. got us in immediately, diagnosed the problem, & ordered the new alternator. It came air freight, & we were on our way late the next day. Freightliner & Leece Neville declined to cover cost as "it is out of warranty".It was because of the age, by about 4 months, but still only 22,000 miles.
My second was the familiar "zipper" blow out on the Michelin tire. It happened on an interstate, cool temps, not even close to overload, at about 25,000 miles.


Tony & Cam
1999 Tradewinds 7371
2001 Cherokee


Posted By: wa0mqe on 12/15/03 06:19pm

RV particulars: Damon w/ Workhorse P32 Chassis
Driveline: GM 8.1 4L80E transmission
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: Cruise Control shutting itself off
Symptoms: Slow down.
Effect: Just like you press the brake or turn off the Cruise switch.

Outcome: Problem was a manufacturer defect. Something to do with a resistance wire in the harness to the brake lights. The Cruise Control was sensing this as the brake lights coming on so would shut itself off. Took two tries at the dealer and calls to Workhorse to take care of a fix.


Posted By: Whaler on 12/17/03 10:37am

Two problems neither of which stranded me but could have.

Cummins 5.9 Allison 5 sp
National Carribean - Spartan Chassis
Mileage 18,000
Electronics
Left home (One mile) start getting electrical fault code which clears
Decide to stop by Cummins Mid- South since it is on my route.
Fault code comes and goes during 60 mile drive.
Finally three miles from Cummins, code stays on and power drops to 50 percent. Limp into Cummins.
They run pc on system finding faulty Crank Shaft Position Sensor.
Replaced and on road in couple of hours, also replaced oil sending unit.

Mileage 24,000
Trip West
Fuel system
Leaving Yellowstone - noticed engine cranked longer than normal.
Engine cranked longer on each of three successive stops
Could not find reason but have had a history of loosing fuel pressure.
Make it to son's in Washington and shut off before going to his rv hookup. Decide to move to hookup. Engine cranked but would not fire, test of fuel pressure was very low at injectors but within specs at fuel pump. Unit was towed (another learning exprience)to Eagle Freightliner where some water was pumped from fuel tank (thought to be the cause)Actual cause was a faulty VP 44 fuel injector pump which Cummins replaced. No other serious problems at 32,000 miles.

Whaler

* This post was edited 12/17/03 05:30pm by Whaler *


Posted By: pashir on 12/17/03 05:35pm

1991 Flair
Ford 460
In-tank fuel pump failure [common happening with Fords]
Fix: Ford dealer wanted to empty fuel and drop tank [about $500]. Thinking this will happen again sooner or later, I ordered them to install an inline aftermarket pump in the fuel line close to the tank and mount it on the frame rail. Works fine. Sucks fuel thru bad pump in tank and sends on to the high pressure pump.


Posted By: pashir on 12/17/03 05:56pm

1997 Country Coach Intrigue
8.3 Cummins 325 HP
Gillig chassis
King Controls cuise failure
replaced 2 boards before discovering reason. The boards have a stepper motor with a cable wind-up pulley. The pulley on each board came loose on the shaft because the two throttle return springs were way too strong.
bought new springs with proper tension at hardware store. No more problems. Don't know who to blame, CC, Cummins or Gillig.

Another time
Lost power but engine would still idle. When opening throttle, black smoke poured out of the exhaust.
Pacbrake was stuck closed. Let it cool about 15 mins., unstuck and went on with pbrake turned off.
adjusted butterfly stop screw 1/2 turn out to keep butterfly from closing so tightly. No more problem.

One more time
Noise coming from rear while descending a long grade. Sounded like maybe a u-joint failing and got louder and louder.
Hose from pacbrake solenoid was routed too close to the exhaust manifold and burnt thru resulting in lost air. Compressor couldn't keep up and the air suspension was allowing the coach to lower itself down onto the tires. Right rear outside tire was rubbing first and got worse as we went.
Turned off pacbrake and pressure came back up. Replace hose at next campground. Took old one to hose place and had new one made


Posted By: pashir on 12/18/03 11:19am

Just remembered another one 1997 CC Intrigue Gillig Cummins 8.3 325 hp Smell diesel, backup camera lens fogged up with fuel spray 11" long flexible 5/16" ID hose connecting transfer pump to steel tubing on injector pump leaking. Cause: somebody at Cummins in their infinite wisdom thought that short legth of flexible hose should be supported in the middle with a bracket [think hose clamp bolted to the block]. After about 50K miles, vibration caused the bracket to wear a hole in the hose. Replaced hose and discarded bracket. Wait there's more-- At about 70K miles, the bracket supporting the steel tube at the end where the aforementioned flex hose connects, with the help of vibration, made a hole in the steel tubing. This bracket is necessary but the rubber insulation had deteriorated. On the road fix: new piece of flex hose long enough to cover hole clamped behind hole. Permament fix: Brazed over hole, filed to dress to original OD of tubing and used same extra length flex hose as insulator. NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT YOUR TOOLS!

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: ilovetocamp on 12/18/03 02:39pm

In 1998 We had a new American Tradition. Went to the east coast so we had about 3,000 miles on it. I was driving down the road when I noticed air pressure dropping. As I pulled to the side of the road the alarm went off then coach dropped and brakes locked. When I called the number I had for Spartan they told where to disconnect a line which by-passed the govenor and it aired up and worked OK until we got to a truck repair. Later that year we were traveling with some friends with same model and it happened to them. I looked like a genius when I knew exactly what to do.

Same motorhome was backing into a tight spot when we heard a "POW" and the front end dropped down. Later found there was no stop on the steering which allowed the wheel to turn far enough that the wheel weight popped the air bag. Even though it was out of warranty Spartan paid for everything including installing a stop so it couldn't happen again.


2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel
2004 Challenger 32TKB 5th wheel with 3 slides.





Posted By: Rollin' Horn on 12/18/03 03:56pm

Badeye, do you mean being stopped, or should we add symptoms that did not stall or stop us on the road, but still involved malfunctions of the engine, chassis, etc. that had to be corrected when we could get to a repair facility?

If every malfunction is fair game, I will share a few horror stories with you.


Posted By: Badeye on 12/18/03 04:37pm

Rollin Horn,
Lets try this, if the malfunction was drive train related or one that could have caused a breakdown then post it. I guess that I had not thought it through that completely.

The idea is to cover those things that are chassis/drive train/suspension related that could cause a motorhomer problems on the road and interrupt a trip. Hope to make it a knowledge base for all of us.


Posted By: SNUFFYSMITH on 12/18/03 05:58pm

RV Particulars:
DSDP 38'
Driveline 3124 CAT
300 HP Alison 3060
Mileage: 63000

Breakdown description: Pulling into a rest stop, shut engine off. About 40 minutes later, while pulling out of rest stop, pouring the coals to the MH to get out into traffice,lost all power, big back fire. Check engine light came on and a couple more lights came on for an instant. Then power came back, but it was scary out there. If I take off slow, it's okay, but dangerous.

Outcome: Primary fuel filter fuel line that goes to engine has very soft rubber - it goes over the engine computer on its way to the engine. Power cables coming from battery compartment go over the fuel line and smashes it almost flat. Solution: Rerouted fuel line - so far, so good.

al


Posted By: Rollin' Horn on 12/20/03 09:53am

2000 Holiday Rambler Ambassador, Cummins ISB 260, Allisson 5 speed, Roadmaster Chassis. Now has 27,000 miles.

1. On May 1, 2001, day of delivery, at 1500 miles, we were headed home to Austin from Buda, Texas (dealer's location.) Both a warning light and stop light came on on the dash. We exited onto service road and took a chance of stopping the rig. We had our cell phone (we are never without it on the road) and called the service manager. He said to turn off the ignition and turn it back on. We did, and the stop light went away but the warning light stayed on. On his advice, we drove to our home and then called to tell him that we made it safely,. He sent a tow truck (first truck could not do the job - stinger too short so another tow truck had to be called.)

Rig towed to Freightliner Deisel, who said the oil sensor had to be replaced.
In latter part of May, about 3,000 miles. we left Austin for Lubbock, Texas, The warning light came on within 50 miles. The only effect this had was that the cruise control would not stay set. When we could stop, we turned the ignition off, then restarted the engine, and the cruise wold set again.

When we got to Lubbock, we took it to the Freightliner Deisel there, and it was diagnosed with "low voltage" , but I could not talk to a service person about what remedy was taken. We left Lubbock for Arlington, Texas, and again within 25-50 miles the warning light came back on. We drove to Arlington, then back to Austin. We returned the rig to the dealer and it was driven by tthe dealer to the Cummins facility in San Antonio. It stayed there two weeks, while Cummins, Monaco, and Roadmaster collaborated about the problem and a fix. We got it back and everything was ok. Just recently Monaco told us that the original alterrnator had to be replaced.,

2. January , 2002, north of Phoenix on way to Las Vegas, the ÅBS light came on. We stopped and called Monaco, and were told that it was ok to driive. We drove to Las Vegas, then to Yuma, Arizona, then back to Austin. Freightline Diesel replaced the brake sensor on the right rear wheel.

3, September 2003. Tried to start engine, but would not start (even crank).
Mobile mechanic replaced starter.

4. Returning from Camping World in New Braunfels, Texas, the ABS light came on., Upon returning home, I checked and found the sensor for the right rear wheel danging loose from its receptacle. It was charred and badly burned. I found out later that there is an unannounced recall on the entire braking system for 2000 Holiday Rambler Ambassadors. Try the National Highway Transportation Safety Agencies webssite and you will find that this recall was issued in October, 2002. Apparently Monaco and Bosch Brakes dispute who is responsible.

3. November 2003. 27,000 miles. Returning from trip to Ames, Iowa, alternator light came on faintly, tachometer needle was erratic instead of steady, cruise resume function operated intermittently and idle adjustment switch stopped working.

Freightliner diesel replaced alternator, after conferring with Monaco to get the right one. At this time, we were told that the altelrnator replacement in San Antonio was the wrong altermator. After the recent replacement, everything works except the tach. It does not work at all. Monaco faxed a schematic to Freightliner, but the mechanic first said it was too fine detail to read, but later said it showed two big wires and two small wires from alternator, but that there are really three small wires, and that the charge system will not work unless all are connected..

I sent a letteer to Monaco and asked what to do next.

The most serious situation is the unannounced recall on the brakes. Monaco has agreed to reimburse the cost of the second replacement of the ABS sensor, even though the rig is not under warranty. We do have an extended warramty, but not with Monaco.


Posted By: pete's retreat on 12/20/03 11:16am

Bought used, August 15,2003, with 10900 mi.

Complete ignition failure....
Result: Ignition Switch and burnt wires @ 11911 mi.

Spongey brake pedal....
Result: Air in Brake lines bled @ 11911 mi.

Brake Pedal to the floor....
Result: Master cylinder bad @ 12000 mi.

Floor heater will not shut off while driving....12000 mi.
Result: Undetermined as of yet, Not a Workhorse problem and have to take it another service facility. Repaired myself.
Remedy: Replace 3 position control switch on dash.

New problem found: 12-28-03

Front end sway (leaning away in turns)....12400 mi.
Result: Nuts and bolts missing from swaybar mount as well as crossmember plate loose.
Remedy: Replaced Missing Hardware myself.

* This post was edited 12/29/03 11:25am by pete's retreat *


2002 Itasca Sunrise 30W
8.1 Vortec. P32 Workhorse. 1963 el lobo toad


Posted By: bill h on 12/20/03 12:02pm

RV particulars: P30.

Break Down Description: Low gear only. Would not shift up.
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause: Nylon governor drive gear on TH400 trans had teeth worn off. After second occurance used a brake cyl hone in bore of trans case to prevent apparent binding of governor.
Outcome: No reoccurances.


RV particulars: P30

Break Down description: Low power, some intake popping, flames and loud bangs out exhaust. Kept getting worse. Finally stopped running.

Cause: Spark looked a little too orange, so replaced HEI coil. Ran like new. Coil had been replaced by previous owner with an apparent no-name part.


NOTE: Any incorrect spelling is intentional to prevent those annoying popups.

84 Barth 30Tag powered by HT502/Thorley/Weiand etc, Gear Vendors OD.
Siamese Calvin and Airedale Hobbes, 4WD Toyota toad


Posted By: xctraveler on 12/20/03 06:46pm

RV particulars:2001 Damon Daybreak 3130
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): WH P30 8.1 Vortec 4 spd
Miles: 26,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: No start after fueling. No dash electrics either
Effect:Nothing happened when the key was turned - no chassis electric came on
Cause:Ignition switch someplace on the floor or in the dog house.
Outcome:Fully warranteed - 23000 miles and under two years. towed at WH expense to WH service center outside of Columbus OH. They spent 2.5 days tracing the electric system replacing parts as they went. final tally was $1,500 bill to WH and we had to drive the Tow'd from Columbus to Rochester and back - better than sitting in a dingy motel witing for answers. Have not had any reoccurance in subsequent 3,000 miles.


Paul
Trucking down the road in our 2012 Phaeton 36QSH on Freightliner Chassis with a Cummins 380 pushing it. 2011 Cherry Red Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with US Gear Unified Tow Brake System. Check out my blog
FMCA 352081 SKP# 99526



Posted By: vance on 12/21/03 07:21pm

Make; Newmar Mountain Aire gas with 460
Problem:
Bearing failures on tag axle.
1st failure occurred at approximately 10,500 miles. Left tag axle wheel bearing failed while driving down interstate 10 at approximately 72 mph.
After installing new bearings, had the right side tag axle wheel removed and repacked.
2nd failure occurred at approximately 19,000 miles. Right tag axle wheel bearing failed.
Exact cause was not determined, however, after weighing just the tag axle it was found to be approximately 1 ton over design weight.
After removing as much "stuff" as possible, the tag axle was still over weight by almost the same amount.
Remedy: Traded


vance
2007 Coachman Encore
330 HP Mercedes
Honda CRV toad
"If you see our children, PLEASE don't tell them where we are"


Posted By: DocScottWesterlyRI on 12/22/03 06:38pm

RV particulars: Heritage 2000
Chasis: Chev P30
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):454 3spd
Miles:45k
Year:1985
Break Down Description: Just bought it and drove her home. The folowing day It would start and just quit within a few seconds.
Symptomstart...quit, start...quit.
Effect: No Trip!
Cause: Rear(2nd of two fuel pumps) had no power.
Fix: Wired in parallel with front pump.
Outcome: Runs great.


Scott & Linda

Heritage 2000(L.Y. RELENTLESS)
Honda EU2000i
Matrix Solar Panels
Cobra inverter - 2000c/4000s
Co-Pilots; Patches(RV Cat), April(Top dog)& 2 Turtle Doves
Palm Beach Pontoon Boat

FMCA 348582
Good Sams



Posted By: TEO on 12/22/03 07:43pm

RV particulars: 1988 Southwind John Deere chassis
Driveline Ford 460
Miles:10K
Year:1992
Break Down Description: On my way to fill fuel tank, 1/2 mile from home. Loss of oil pressure caused by loss of oil.
Symptoms: Running rough as lifters are not getting oil.
Effect: Stopped
Cause: Oil cooler came apart
Fix: Walked home and got my car and tools. Bypassed the oil cooler and added more oil. Replaced the cooler later ($220.00 from Ford)
Outcome: Problem Solved, I thought.

Year:1992
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-20 in East Texas. Suddenly I can't see anything behind me because of the smoke coming from the motorhome. Pulled over instantly and prepared to bail out of the burning coach. No fire! Oil cooler was leaking, spraying a mist of oil back over the manifold causing a smoke screen you wouldn'believe.
Cause: Oil cooler came apart, again.
Fix: Had tools and coveralls aboard. After the system cooled, I bypassed the oil cooler once again and added only a quart of oil. Replaced the cooler later ($50.00 from J. C. Whitney)
Outcome: Problem Solved.

Year:2001
Break Down Description: No breakdown, but losing large amounts of transmission fluid.
Cause: Transmission Oil cooler came apart. This is identical to the oil cooler.
Fix: Replaced the cooler . ($50.00 from J. C. Whitney)
Outcome: Problem Solved


Paul & Helen
2002 Winnebago Journey DL
1999 Jeep Cherokee toad
Yellow Lab, Jodie, Chocolate Lab, Coco , and Lab/Golden mix, Sandy.
FMCA 98905
http://ptempesta.blogspot.com


Posted By: codytyler on 12/22/03 08:46pm

YOU THE MAN, BADEYE! GREAT IDEA AND I WILL BE FOLLOWING ALL INPUT, THANKS! HERE'S MINE:

2002 HR Vacationer 36DBD, W22 Chassis, 9000 miles and going since I just recently retired.

Breakdown: While traveling from Las Vegas toward Yellowstone in August, in weather that was extremely hot, 114 degrees and had been so for several days. Stopped in St. George, Utah and filled up with gas. It's mid-day and very hot. Started up the grade from St. George toward Cedar City and had a significant amount of gas blowing out from under the coach. Local fire department responded since the temperatures were so extreme. In the end, several locals lectured me about not ever filling my gas tank to the top in such weather conditions. Don't know if that's what happened for sure or not, but had to wait in Cedar City for 3 days, until the local Chevrolet (workhorse rep.) could check all the lines and the gas tank. Supposedly found no significant problems, just tighted up all the lines, including of course the return line. Wrong or right, I haven't filled the tank to the brim since this incident and it hasn't repeated itself. Thank goodness, lots of gas and high temperatures are scarey.


Codytyler
2002 HR Vacationer, 36DBD, W22, 2006 PT Cruiser GT Convertible Toad


Posted By: BobsYourUncle on 12/23/03 12:31am

Flat tire on my trailer side-roaded me for a couple hours. The steel belted radial destroyed my "portable motel". I had to buy another trailer.


2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ
Duramax / Allison
Fire Red

1997 Triple E Topaz 27' Bunkhouse TT

81 Citation 25' "Tail dragger" "Under construction"

"Workin' man's rig"

Bob's Trucks


Check Out My Rebuild Project

Project Feedback



Posted By: ccallure2000 on 12/23/03 04:13am

Date of incident May, 2003
RV particulars: 2000 Country Coach 40'   
Driveline Cummins ISC 330, Allison 4000   
Miles:11,000
Break Down Description: Engine Quit

Symptoms: Everything stopped, all gauges went to zero, no warning lights, power steering, all indications of ignition key being turned off.

   Effect: Fortunately we were on a private road to our church parking lot. We were going only about 10MPH so we pulled over without incident. Could have been dicey anywhere else.

   Cause: This was the first time we had driven the MH with cats on board. Being new to this environment, the cats hid in the bedroom closet and only came out when things were quiet. When I started up the engine and started moving, they stayed in the closet until we went over the first speed bump on the road to our church. This, along with clothes falling on them and cans crashing out of the pantry, caused them to race to the front of the MH and away from the noise. One cat, an 18 lb Main Coon, had previously discovered a safe place under the dash to hide to which she made a beeline. In the confusion and turmoil of the speed bump, neither of us knew she had gone there, but in her dash to safety, she pulled the wire harness away from the ignition switch.

   Outcome: After checking out the chassis battery and other electrical connections that might have been ignition related, the absence of any wires attached to the ignition switch was discovered. Reconnecting the harness fixed the problem. After an additional search, cat was found hiding in the vacant area behind passenger side dash panel.

Solution: 1) Safety wired harness to ignition switch, 2) cardboarded and duct taped underside of dash to prevent cat entry, 3) put cats in cage in dingy when underway.

Postscript: As cats became accustomed to travel, they now ride in the motorhome, unsupervised on the bed, most of the time sleeping while underway. The engine now seems to have a calming effect.

Oh yeah, and I now drive very slowly over speed bunps.


Posted By: Toronto John on 12/23/03 03:51pm

2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 38'
3126 Cat 330HP, Allison3000
Freightliner XC Chassis

Breakdown details: In Dec 2000 AC Compressor replaced under warranty at 10,000 miles. In November 2001 at 18,000 miles temp gauge showed serious overheating about 25 miles east of Billings,Montana. Limped along for a few miles and then checked engine to discover that serpentine belt was broken. First Emergency Road Service arrived two hours later with closest replacement belt he could find and advised that the real problem was seized AC compressor that was run by the same belt and caused fraying and breakage. Three hours later towed to Freightliner in Billings and waited over weekend plus Monday for new Compressor to come in from Reno. Compressor and belt replaced and everything fine after that.

2003 DSDP 4004 triple slide
350 ISC, Spartan, Allison3000
2002 Honda CRV


Posted By: NoGoSlo on 12/25/03 09:38am

RV particulars:
Engine: Cummins 350, Allison
Miles: 40,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Loss of air pressure
Effect: Had to stop before brakes locked up
Cause: Air dryer seal
Outcome: Good Sam Road Service dispatched diesel mechanic who bypassed air dryer to continue trip. Replaced seals when we got home. Told that this is a maintenance item.

Lesson: Put the air dryer on your annual maintenance list.


B & B
Yellow Labs: Rusty & ZBar
Monaco Dynasty DP


Posted By: Horsedoc on 12/27/03 12:25pm

This is a good idea. Just found it. I never read the stuff in bold print at top of forums;

2000 Itasca Horizon DP 36'
300 Cat
6 speed Allison
towing 4dr. 4wd Tracker

Heading west over the Bighorns in Wyoming from Yellowstone through Cody. Long pull to top of pass and the engine starts overheating. Pull over to check coolant and it is fine and full. Engine cools down within normal range almost immediately. In the next 8-12 miles had to pull over to cool 5-6 times.
Figured the altitude and toad causing the heating. Not further problems until some long hills in South Dakota when the temp indicator went up but no warning buzzer.
No further problems until August coming out of Alabama and heat went up. Same thing in NC crossing mountain and buzzere went off. Engine cooled down very quickly.
This coach had made a trip from Georgia to Las Vegas the previous year with no problems at all.

Resolution:
RV.net member PM'd after hearing of the problem and said he thought the radiator was partially blocked. Trip to a quarter carwash and a handfull of change and a tremendous amount of dirt and oily crud washed out of the radiator. Turns out Freightliner left the puke pipe from the crankcase breaker too short and it dumps the oily smoke and fumes on the radiator core. Dust and road debris collects on that and causes air flow restriction.
Cost: frayed nerves for a few hours and about 4 dollars and 20 minutes with high pressure spray and degreaser.


horsedoc
2008 Damon Essence
2003 Honda Element
Blue Ox tow


Posted By: rcatterall on 12/27/03 06:12pm

RV particulars:2003 Safari Cheetah 38' double slide
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 330hp, Allison 6
Miles: 4,000
Year:2003 New just picked up at /Monaco/Safari Service Ctr, Wildwood,FL
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Poor acceleration
Effect: Front wheels hot, noticed by a Wal-Mart truck driver
Cause: Brakes dragging
Outcome: Safari replaced all components on front axle at n/c


03 Safari Cheetah. I bought it to use it and I do.


Posted By: rcatterall on 12/27/03 06:20pm

2nd incident

RV particulars:2003 Safari Cheetah 38' double slide
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 330hp, Allison 6
Miles: 12,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Poor acceleration intermittedly, problems with cruise control engaging
Effect: None really but familiar with problem from previous incident. Could obviously have been serious
Cause: Brakes dragging
Outcome: Safari replaced all components on both axles at n/c thru a Barlow Freightliner in Little Rock. Barlow was excellent. Safari had a big problems in getting the right parts there and wasted at least a week of our time and caused us several hundred dollars in travel expenses that we have not sought restituion for yet


Posted By: rcatterall on 12/27/03 06:33pm

RV particulars:2003 Safari Cheetah 38' double slide
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 330hp, Allison 6 spd
Miles: 14,000
Year:2003 Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Chassis batteries dead after unit sits for a couple of days even if connected to shore power
Effect: Engine needed boost
Cause: Safari had wired several components including fridge into the chassis battery
Outcome: My tech said was told that was deliberate ! I would not have the foggiest reason why they would do this. Safari advised tech to add an Echo charger to keep the chassis batteries up at my expense. Would not authorize tech to change wiring said I could come to FL Service center and they would do it. I know it sounds like bs but I swear it is true. I was having fridge problems and just happened to notice the fridge was off (I leave it on always as I use the coach 4 or 5 days out of 7) I hit on and nothing. I went to start the coach and the chassis battery was dead. Back to the panel the house batteries were full (I have and auto-start generator). Used the transfer switch to get engine started went back and hit the fridge on button again and Voila it came on as did the old light bulb. Btw had already replaced one set of chassis batteries under warranty


Posted By: rcatterall on 12/27/03 06:41pm

RV particulars:2003 Safari Cheetah 38' double slide
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 330hp, Allison 6
Miles: 10,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Less than expected power and mileage (previously had 300 hp Cat)
Effect: Mileage was approx 7mpg had gotten 10 + with previous unit
Cause: Hole in hose from turbo to engine
Outcome: Safari paid Cat for fix as hose was routed improperly causing it to rub thru. Didn't offer to pay for the wasted juice though


Posted By: jrj9871 on 12/28/03 11:13am

RV particulars: PaceArrow Vision Driveline (Ford Triton V10 engine and Ford Transmission): Miles: 19k Year: 1999 Break Down Description: (Started up the RV after having it in storage for two months. The service engine soon light stays lit, but the RV runs fine. I am on my way to Ford to have the unit serviced [good thing]). Symptoms: The light is on, but RV is running fine. Effect: None Cause: The siginal from the transmission is not getting to the computer. Outcome: Ford found and fixed the short, "The Plan" extended service contract paid the bill, thank god we were just getting ready for our winter trip to Brownsville TX and not on the road already.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


RV: 1999 Pace Arrow Vision
Toad: 2002 Saturn L200
Brake System: VIP-TOW Brake
Towing: RoadMaster Towing Base plates
Tow Bar: RoadMaster Falcon 2


Posted By: bob_b on 12/29/03 11:16am

Second one:

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser DP
Driveline 190hp 5.9L Cummins, Allison 4
Miles: 91,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Electrical Malfunction
Symptoms: Blindness at 65mph
Effect: Driving lights cycling on and off (mostly OFF) while on a highway at night. Brights would work only if I held the stalk in the ‘flash-to-pass’ position.
Cause: Corrosion inside the Headlamp Switch was breaking the connection.
Outcome: Purchased a new Headlamp switch for $14. Installation was easy.


Posted By: bob_b on 12/29/03 11:17am

third one:

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser DP
Driveline 190hp 5.9L Cummins, Allison 4
Miles: 91,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Hydraulic leak from HWH stabilizer hose.
Symptoms: Greasy tires and a messy driveway.
Effect: Fluid was dripping onto the front tire from the controller above.
Cause: The hose was leaking near the controller box.
Outcome: Called HWH (they are very helpful) and they determined that tightening wouldn’t help since the leak was where the rubber meets the fitting. I removed the hose and brought it to the local hydraulic hose shop. It took them ten minutes to repair the hose with a new fitting. I reinstalled it without purging the system. The HWH stabilizer system will self-purge any air in the lines. Cost was only $5.


Posted By: E_d on 01/01/04 07:54pm

Badeye, THIS IS GREAT! Maybe they will start a forum just for this topic. In your database, are you going to split it between diesel and gas engines so that we can view only that type that pertains to us? just a thought.

RV particulars:
Driveline F-53, ford 460
Miles: 20000
Year: 1997

Break Down Description: while on vacation in the summer, when I would slow down to 55-50 to pull off the highway, the engine would quit. Outside temp 100+.

Symptoms: Difficult to start or if it did would not be enough power to move. After several hours of cool down, rig ran great until the next time I slowed down.

Effect:

Cause: Thought is was vapor lock like in the old days with carbs only this is FI. Turned out to be bad fuel pump in tank

Outcome:Under extended warranty, had dealer replace fuel pump and problem went away. Cost was $850.00 see comment below

Talked to several others and they had the same problem and the only cure was to replace the fuel pump. there is someone, don't remember his name at the moment, who came up with a way to install an external fuel pump instead of replacing the one inside or to use the external in conjunction with the one inside. His repair is a good one and he also has pictures with a complete description on how to install it.


Ed/Jan
Smile! and have a nice day.
USMC Retired '87, Retired again ,2010
97 36' Georgie Boy Cruise Air
Amateur Radio W6EDD

99 Nisson Frontier Tow
Retired Again March '10
5 month cross country trip. What a beautiful country we have. (10-23-10)



Posted By: Richard and Cris on 01/02/04 03:48pm

Driveline: Cummins ISC 325 hp
miles: 36000
Yr: 1998
Breakdown: Engine wouldn't start
Symptoms: Starter turned but no starting
effect: no engine running
Cause: faulty fuel shut off solenoid
Outcome: replaced solenoid two different times as they were faulty but under warranty.


Richard


Posted By: Larry&Linda on 01/04/04 07:17am

RV particulars: Damon Ultrasport
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat 300, Allison 3000
Miles: 10414
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: Unable to start after changing fuel filter
Symptoms: Low power going up steep grade in New Mexico
Effect: Maximum speed was about 40 mph going up hill, rough engine at full throttle.
Cause: Dirty fuel filter
Outcome: Per the owners manual, change fuel filter every 15,000 miles. I carry a spare so I consulted the CAT owners manual and it said to NEVER fill the fuel filter with fuel when you only have one 3-micron in-line filter to prevent contamination and early injector pump failure. Engine would not stay running after I changed the filter per the manual. Towed 75 miles to Caterpillar repair center (thanks Good SAMS ERS). Per the senior service technician, "you must fill the filter with fuel or it won't start." DAH! $200.00 to purge air with portable hand pump.

Since I don't have a hand prime pump, or a fuel filter fill plug, I found that I can insert a 3/4 inch NPT pipe plug in the center of the filter and then fill it with fuel. This filters all fuel so there is no contamination. I now carry a spare filter, pipe plug and about 1/2 gallon of fuel in case this ever happens again.

I suspect I may have had algae in the fuel tank since it had the same fuel in the tank for several months (I bought it new off the lot late in 2002, build date was 2/2002). I now add biocide to the fuel if it is going to set for any length of time (wish dealer did). I only fill at Flying-J or Loves.

Larry

Edited to add year and model of MH

* This post was edited 01/14/04 11:20am by Larry&Linda *


Larry and Linda
2002 Ultrasport 3126E Cat-300
Toad - 2003 Limited Edition Jeep Liberty 4X4
Blue OX Aventa II Tow Bar
Unified Tow Brake by US Gear
FMCA #F333931


Posted By: 2 4 Da Road on 01/05/04 11:33pm

RV particulars: 2003 Coachmen Aurora DS 3510Class A. (Gas)
Driveline: 8.1 Vortec, Allison 5-speed.
Miles: 3,138 total miles.
Year: 2003
Breakdown description: Motorhome broke down 01 Aug,2003 on return side of its maiden voyage to Loveland, Co. With no prior warning, the engine light came on and lcd display indicated "0" oil pressure. We were eastbound on I-90 1/2 mile from the Sherburn, Minn. exit. we immediately exited and pulled into a parking lot just as the lifters began to clatter. We unhooked the toad, called Coach-net Road service, and waited for tow truck to arrive. We had to leave MH at Mel Carlson Chevrolet in Truman, Minn. (600 mi from home) to be repaired, because it was going to take 3 weeks to get parts. Returned on 24 Aug and drove our repaired Coach home.
Symptoms: Engine light illuminated, "0" oil pressure indicated on computer readout.
Effect: Motor home had to be towed approx 20 miles to authorized repair shop. Left motor home behind and waited 3 weeks for parts procurement/repairs.
Cause: Broken oil pump drive shaft.
Outcome: Parts replaced: oil pump, oil pumpshaft(broken), pumpshaft-to-cam coversion gear,(gear scored), camshaft(wear marks on gear teeth), all the solid lifters (matched to camshaft), and gaskets. Towing covered by Easy Care, All repairs covered by Workhorse Warranty. Still waiting for expenses re-imbursement checks from from both Easy Care and Workhorse. Received calls from both of them today that checks are being processed and that I should have them next week. Although this was a traumatic experience at times, It had a positive outcome for us. Warranty covered repairs, We are going to be reimbursed for most, not all our out-of-pocket expenses. Mel Carlson Chevrolet provided excellent service, left the motorhome spic and span inside and out. They and our RV Dealer (Hilltop RV and Superstore of Escanaba, MI) contacted us almost daily with status and progress updates. They handled allof the coordination and interface with Workhorse and Coachmen. When we got it back home, we had some other issues Hilltop had us bring it in and they started work on it. We never got it back because they made us "a deal we couldn't refuse"! But that's another adventure! (See Signature below).


SAM & BARB
Mona (The "Princess" Siamese Mix)
2004 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Toad: 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon or 2002 Bonneville



Posted By: egh33 on 01/06/04 11:30am

Breakdown on road , but lucky. Chev 454 Itasca with less than 25,000 miles on it, just east of Artesia, N.M. a couple of summers ago I lost power,engine started missing but was able to limp into the town of Artesia. Found the Chevy dealer. He could not get to me till the next afternoon.but the camp ground was on the same street about a mile away. Made it to the camp ground started to check things out (you know kicking the tires and checking the oil)didn't know what I was looking for. Next day got back in to the dealer He found a badly burnt spark plug wires and a very coroded distrubitor cap. They told me that it was caused by water being slpashed up on top of the motor.
They replaced wires and some other parts and I was on my way with more power than I had all first part of the year.
Last summer was heading in to Silverton,Colo. and the heat gauge went clear over to hot as far as it could go. I Quickly moved to a off the road spot and checked the engine the raditor was almost cool enough to lay my hand on it. The motor did not smell hot so I turned it off and the heat gauge returned to cool real fast,after checking the oil and water and transmission every thing seemed to be fine I started on up the road about 5 miles down the road the heat gauge again went over to hot.Again I stopped and checked every thing out. all OK. On my return trip I found a Chevrolet dealer and they put it on the computer, found that the heat sensor in the block was bad. Put in a new one and about $75.00 I was back on the road. Guage has not showed hot since.

* This post was edited 01/06/04 11:45am by egh33 *






Posted By: ccxnola on 01/11/04 12:14am

I had and Interesting situation that could have cost me BIG bucks except for the honesty of a good mechanic that wanted to go home.

RV particulars: 1988 Fleetwood Limited
Driveline (Ford 460 Engine (yes, it has a CARB), C6 Transmission) on a John Deere chassis
Miles: less than 50,000

Break Down Description: Quick Trip - New Orleans to San Diego (HA!) Fill-up the gas tank on the way out of Louisiana (OK, I was trying to save a bit of change and use the cheap stuff at a station right outside of the refinery) Hot to Trot!

Symptoms: Got about 300 miles into texas and started to loose power
Effect: Slowing down and even dying on the highway - kept going by pumping the floor pedal several times - over and over to get to the next town - Late in the evening (8PM). Crawled into a repair shop just closing for the night - explained I needed to get to SD quick. Mechanic listened to my sad tale and said 'If you are here in the morning I'll fix it and charge you plenty - but if you want to go across the street to the parts store and get a fuel filter and put it in yourself, you can be on your way in less than an hour'.

Cause: Fuel Starvation due to gunk cloging the primary fuel filter at the tank - most likely from the cheap fuel

Outcome: He was right - but back then I looked sort of hopeless and asked 'Fuel filter - where it is and what does it look like'? Now, I have all the owner, technical and parts manuals for the chassis, drive train and coach. And the tools to fix most minor problems if they arise. Fuel Filters? Two in the kit - plus spare belts (4 different-no two alike), and about 60 lbs of other spares I hope I never have to use - but have used several times!! There are many things I can not (or due to my ignorance or intelligence will not) do, but it pains me to pay big bucks to do the simple / minor things.


1997 Rexhall Rolls Air - mid-entry DP w/cummins c8.3
Look for the Mardi Gras 'Gators
Laissez le bon temps roulez - Let the good times roll !!
Click to see the Best View of our rig - That's ME, Going Away!!


Posted By: mustangman on 01/12/04 10:05am

Thank you so much for that idea on replacing the intank pump with an outside frame mounted pump,where can i find that pump,please
post it when you have the time thanks,i have heard so much about the intank pump going out on the f53 460,,want to have on on hand ,i have a 1992 f53


Posted By: Pachura on 01/12/04 09:49pm

93 Vectra, 107,000 miles, Cummins 5.9

Traveling on interstate, got light wiffs of diesel fuel, decided that noone was close enough for us to smell their fuel, pulled onto ramp east end or Yuma to do a walk around, got to the back & had fuel spraying onto pavement, ran for the ignition key.

Opened the engine compartment, had wet fuel everywhere (luckly not on the exaust manifold), cranked the engine & got the fuel spray from the side of the secondary fuel filter. The almost new filted had developed a 1/2 inch split in the side of the filter. Used toad to find a NAPA store, I had the filter receipt for a change, they replaced filter as warantee & allowed me to return to their store & hose off coach compartment & toad.

An earler problem was engine overheating: I ended up with a recored oversized radiator & the experience of removing the radiator, after cooler, transmission cooler package four times. I also had an auxilary radiator fabricated & sized to fit behind the front grill along with the airconditioning condenser. I connected the auxiliary radiator to the heater hose with an inline heater hose valve that can be opened from the cockpit. When I put water through the auxiliary radiator the engine temp. will drop 15 degrees within seconds. The front radiator is getting fresh air plus I wired the front airconditioning fans so that I can turn them on if more air is needed.
I did all of the labor & designing myself. I can now have my radiator/cooler assembly out of my coach in 4 hours. The dollar cost to me was $530. The low cost was because the radiator shop made mistakes that forced me to do 3 of the four removals. The local RV dealer wanted $875 to just R&R the radiator without any repairs.


Posted By: 1989 chief on 01/13/04 12:15pm

have 89 winnabago 454 eng. had trouble with a in line fuse line . burning out it turned out that a wire that runs by the compresser was rubbing fixed wire no more trouble


1989 chief


Posted By: 9lives on 01/13/04 08:01pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford V-10, 4R100
Miles: 22000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description: Severe Vibration
Symptoms: Vibration which appeared to be in the front end. Ford TSB about wheels not self centering, holes in wheels larger than hubs.
Effect: Caused a severe vibration usually between 25MPH and 65MPH. I could feel it in the steering wheel and because I had knowledge of the TSB, I assumed it was the wheels/tires on the front. Had front end alignment and all tires rebalanced. No change. Next trip had front wheels manually centered. No change. Front tires were cupping irregularily, rotated tires per Ford and Goodyear specifications, no change. Put airbags on the front, no change. After 22,000 miles took the motorhome to dealer. Took it for a test drive with the shop manager. (NOTE: I have been the only driver) After he walked around the M/H while in motion, he drove and had me walk around the coach. Vibration was extremely severe over the rear axle.
Cause: 3 of the rear axle bearings shot. Replaced all the wheel bearings in the rear end
Outcome: Vibration non existant now. (NOTE: I was only able to test drive the M/H for about 40 miles before I put it up for the winter, but so far so good.)

Apparently the vibration had traveled up the driveline to the transmission and then to the steering box. Lesson learned, don't assume anything and check everything. Luckily Most of the attempted repairs and the major repairs covered by warranty, after about $4000 worth of repairs, I am only out about $400.


Bill & Susie
Annie the Pommie & Randy our cat
1999 Hurricane 34' w/slide, v-10
1998 Jeep Wrangler Sport




Posted By: Teal Turtle Tea Tours and Travelling Taxi on 01/13/04 11:42pm

Breakdowns? I could write a book! Front tires gone at 5,000 miles - dealer wouldn't check alignment so manufacturer bought two new ones. Fuel injectors, 5 of them in 70,000 miles. Blown water hose in the hills of southern Oregon - one hour for the service truck just to get there and only big enough to move the toad; you need a class "C" tow truck for a class "A" MH. All this and lots more on a 1998 Overland 37', Freightliner chassis, CAT 3126 engine. Slide out drive gear stripped. Slide out support rollers crushed. Manufacturer installed a bracket that punctured suspension air bag. The failures go on and on but I've fixed them all and still love it.


Teal Turtle Tea Tours and Travelling Taxi


Posted By: Richmeister on 01/20/04 04:44am

RV particulars: 2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Driveline (Engine 330 Cat, Transmission Allison 3060):
Miles:40,000
Year:
Break Down Description: (engine quit)
Symptoms: I was driving west on I 12, when the engine started surging. I pulled into a rest area and all the alarms and warning lights started flashing and the engine quit.
Effect: Engine would not restart, oil was all over the toad and dripping from the mudflap on the rear of the coach
Cause:A high pressure oil line failed. Apparently this oil line affects the operation of the injectors.
Outcome: Called Allstate RV Road service, was towed to Big Wheel garage in Hammond, LA. The oil line had dry rotted and was replaced. I will pickup the coach this moning. (A Cat Certified facility is not the same as a Cat Authorized Service facility. No warranty help.)


Rich FMCA F314671
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 38 CDD
Cat 330 h.p. 2003 Jeep Liberty
Aventa II, Apollo brake


Posted By: SteveRit on 01/20/04 08:22am

RV particulars: Soutwhind
Driveline (454, 3speed tran):
Miles: 63k
Year: 1985
Symptoms: Freeway driving, engine backfires, dies
Effect: no go, need tow
Cause: 1st time found the coil and rotor had disentagrated, replaced coil, modulator, cap, wires
Outcome: ran for a bit, did it again

Symptoms: Freeway driving, engine backfires, dies
Effect: no go, need tow
Cause: This was the 2nd time this happened, still electrical. Turned out oil was getting up into the bottom? sensor on the distributor, replace distributator, coil
Outcome: ran good


Steve & Dora
05 32s Fleetwood Terra, Workhorse
Two kids
Dog, Duke a Cocker mix
Cats Jester and Sassy




Posted By: rdweeter on 01/24/04 08:17pm

EXCELLENT IDEA! how do you plan to collect and summarize?

However, I think it should include ANY breakdown - for example mine occurred while I was at home. I bought a '90 Winnebago 36 RQ with tag axles on ebay and drove it back to OKC from phoenix - it performed flawlessly until I got it home. Then it kept konking out - like it wasn't getting gas - checked all the obvious things like filters, etc. and finally decided it had to be the fuel pump. I called the local dealers and they said it would be about $800 to drop the tank and replace the pump. I thought, man, I screwed up on this purchase but crawled under the big beast again to look at the tank (desperate thoughts of doing it myself). WAIT - there was the fuel pump on the outside. I reached up to touch it and the positive wire to it fell apart in my hands. 3' of wire and a connector and it has run VERY well for about 12,000 miles....


Richard Weeter



Posted By: tjtheoneway on 01/26/04 08:02am

lost a belt on my cummins diesel pusher approchin timmerin hill in idaho. unhooked the jeep grand cheroke and pulled the 38ft holiday rambler to the rest area with the jeep! no problem! went and got two belts the wrong size,had to go back and get the right size. the wife had to pull up on the tensioner with a ratchet wrench while i was underneath directing the belt. then i got topside with her and got evey thing okayed, looked at my wife and she was sweatin as bad as i was. i had to commit! i said, NOW DO YOU SEE WHY MEN CUSS AND DRINK BEER? she just laughed.


tjtheoneway


Posted By: BIGCAJN on 01/26/04 10:43am

I HAVE BEEN OWNING AN ALLEGRO BAY 34FT WITH THE CUMMINS 230 FOR ABOUT FIVE YEARS NOW. THE ONLY PROBLEM I'VE HAD THIS PAST YEAR WAS A DIESEL LEAK AND A NON FUNCTIONING EXHAUST BRAKE, IN CALIFORNIA.

MY BROTHER IN LAW AND I REMOVED THE EX BRAKE AND WORKED IT FREE AND IT STARTED WORKING AGAIN. THE FUEL LEAK WAS FIXED AFTER LIMPING INTO BEND, ORE. ON A SUNDAY. AFTER BEING UNABLE TO GET A MECHANIC TILL MONDAY, I CRAWLED UNDER THE UNIT WHILE BROTHER IN LAW STARTED IT AND DETERMINED IT WAS THE DIESEL RETURN LINE FROM THE INJECTOR PUMP TO THE TANK THAT WAS LEAKING. SOMEBODY HAD APPARENTLY CHANGED THE RUBBER HOSE PART OF IT AND TIED IT TO THE METAL CONNECTORS ON THE POWER STEERING LINE AND THIS RUBBED A HOLE IN IT. I WAS VERY HAPPY TO BE ABLE TO FIND THE PROBLEM AND FIX IT, WITH NEW HOSE AND CLAMPS FOR $5.30.
BIGCAJN


Posted By: XCountry on 01/26/04 04:55pm

Lil Truckr:

Same thing happened to me "almost Identical" . Corroded fuse to lift pump. "No Lift Pump - No Diesel".


2002 Coachmen Cross Country
Dodge Caravan Toad
Remco
Brake Buddy
Navigator (Best Friend)Wife 39years
Pilot (Ask Me)


Posted By: bbartonwx on 01/27/04 07:27am

I'm an "old iron" owner. First coach was an '84 Blue Bird FC35. Because I bought during winter, I never heard the electrically-operated radiator fan kick on. I figured it just ran like my car's fan did on an engine-driven fan belt. Further, I didn't really understand the manual override switch on the dash that kept the fan running constantly, if desired.
The bottom line is..the wire powering that radiator fan was broken. We didn't overheat seriously until we were on highway 385 going up two lane switch-back roads through Custer National Park on our way up to Mt. Rushmore. It was incredibly difficult to find a place to pull over..and a very dangerous tow off the mountain.
Moral is...make sure EVERY component and accessory is demonstrated in working order when you take delivery of a new or used coach..even if that accessory may not be necessary at the time.
Currently driving an '86 Newell we thoroughly enjoy..no breakdowns in the last 2-3 years. But thanks to an alert mechanic who noticed by u-joint was about shot just before a 4,000 mile trip.


Posted By: Hammus on 01/28/04 07:26am

RV 2001 37K Bounder Diesel
Freightliner XC Chassis
Allison 3000mh
275 Cummins ISB

Right front Bilstein shock shaft stripped threads on shaft to lower mount. Loud noise on any right side of coach front on any imperfection in road -- occurred W of Whitehorse, YT Canada. Solution, weld shaft to lower mount and replace both under warranty when return to US.

Hammus


Bob and Sue in Texas
2001 Bounder DP 37K Cummins 275 ISB
Jeep Liberty
W5TX Amateur Call


Posted By: 1989 chief on 01/28/04 09:57am

i too put in cheap fuel i was in so. dakota wont happen again & i carry extra fuel filters


Posted By: jntrox on 01/30/04 10:57pm

On out trip out West in 2003, my Flair M/H started sputtering and losing power, a quick look at the gauges indicated that the battery voltage was very low and going lower all the time. It was getting late in the day and lucky I was at a near-by exit and able to pull off the road to a safe place.
My first thought was that the alternator went out, so I pulled it and my weak battery from the M/H, disconnected the tow and proceded into town to look for a NAPA dealer which I found. I asked them to check out my alternator which they said was bad. Not having one there I left my battery to be recharged and went pick-up an alternator at another NAPA store.
Back at the M/H I reinstalled the battery and the Rebuilt Alternator, started the engine and wola, the battery wasn't charging. Drove the m/h with the newely charged battery to the NAPA store to get there before they closed, pulled alternator and had them check out the rebuilt unit. They said it too was bad! Asked him to check out another unit in his store and he said that it also checked out bad! Evidently he didn't know what he was doing with the tester. Asked him for the nearest Chevy dealer address and went there to have my system checked out.
The Chevy service shop had closed for the day. Spent the night in an adjacent parking lot. The next morning I asked the service tech to check out my charging system, he too said that the rebuilt alternator was bad, he order me a New Delco unit. I removed the rebuilt unit to return it to NAPA for credit and installed my old unit back in. Well after a few hours the New Delco unit came in, wrong size, he reordered another unit (2 hr wait).
In the mean time I looked in my Chevy shop manuals I keep in the M/H and it said to check the Alternator fuse, well I could not find any fuse labled Alternator, I continued to check all fuse( A Bunch) and found the "Instrument panel" fuse Blown, replaced it, started the engine and the old alternator was working fine, told the tech and he said he would cancel the order for the new alternator because he said if the old unit works it would be a waste of money to replace it. He also said that there would not be any charges! Maybe because I found my own problem?
Funny how they all said that the alternators were bad! Makes you wonder about the knowledge of the service techs out there.
I guess if it would have been earlier in the day I would have found the blown fuse sooner.
The moral of the story is to always check all the fuses first.


Posted By: jimraysr on 01/31/04 10:25pm

Great advise. I would not think to check for an "alternator fuse" can't say I have ever seen one. What size was it?

Jim


Jim,Sr., Jean & Charlie Boy (K9) Ray 88 - 25'HR AlumaFrame, 460/C6, Looking for a new Dinghy, DirecTV, XM, 6-210amp GC, Separator, Link-10, PD9280/Wiz, ProSine 1800, PowerPoles, VZW Internet, Smith & Wilson

JamesRaySr@gmail.com
Glendale, AZ


Posted By: ymi on 02/01/04 12:42pm

RV particulars:
Itasca 35U
Workhorse W22
Driveline (Vortec 8.1 L, Allison 5 Spd):
Miles: 3817.5 at time of breakdown
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Yellow "Check Engine Light", and "Reduced Enging Power" message on dash --- should read" NO ENGINE POWER"!!!

Symptoms:
Absolutely not enough power to do more than roll to a stop. Engine was clattering - shut it off and called Workhorse - they arranged for a tow. It was Dec 23 in the afternoon so we were ruined as far as rthe vacation went - dealer couldn't look at rig until the 27th. Towed us to a KOA where we spent Christmas.

Cause: Diagnosed as a loose plug on the throttle position sensor
Outcome: They checked it with the computer after reinstalling the plug and said it was fine - worked all the way from Charleston to Florida ----------- then crapped out again!! Next dealer spent 7 1/2 hours diagnosing the problem and came up with the idea that the throttle position sensor was bad and needed to be replaced - of course they didn't have one and it was going to take 5 - 7 days to get!!!!! It took SEVEN. I am still fuming that parts would take that long - someone is yanking my chain but the rig now runs well - all the way home to Pennsylvania with out any engine problems other than the fact that it must be running rich - less than 7mpg and only pullng a 700 pound motorcycle trailer - I got over 7.5 pulling my Ford Explorer to Michigan over Interstate 80 in Pennsylvania. Oh well - have to wait and see what my local dealer says - just got home yesterday...


C. L. Smith Itasca 35U


Posted By: Colette and Joe on 02/02/04 05:42pm

2001 Travel Supreme 36KSO1
Spartan Chassic Cummins 260 ISB
Allison 5 speed

1. 2 rear blow-outs , had spares
2. Engine fire.
Cause; 2/0 copper to gen-set shorted out between gen-set and frame.
3 Engine; Started engine after 28 days of nonuse. Service engine light
came on with audible alarm, 1min. later red blinking engine light came
on,30 seconds later engine shut off.
Coolant level sensor was to blame, because plastic type sight bulb in
overflow tank from radiator cracked and allowed coolant to spray out
untill 2 gal. tank was empty. Unplugged sensor to restore engine power. Replaced plastic with metal plug. Added coolant in 2 gal. tank
to bring everything back to normal.


2001 Travel Supreme 36' DP - "Smoky's Den"
2001 Automatic PT Cruiser, Blue Ox tow and break system and Remco trans. pump.



Posted By: bildan on 02/02/04 07:55pm

I have been scanning the posts in this thread and I haven't noticed anyone using an OBDII scanner. You can buy them for less than $200.

I always carry an AutoXray ODB1&2 scanner with me along with a factory shop manual. The scanner will tell me pretty much exactly what is wrong. I may not be able to fix the problem on the roadside, but I can be sure what the problem is so I won't be ripped off by the repair shop.

* This post was last edited 02/04/04 11:57am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: trvlr on 02/04/04 12:32pm

Broke down I75 Georgia Florida line Jan. 2004
2001 Dutch Star 13500 miles 330 Caterpillar Diesel, Allison 3160 6 speed transmission 40' coach. Problem(s) started with noise from rear of coach , hard steering, loss of hydraulic fluid. ended with overheating,hard steering, low oil pressure, engine oil all over rear of coach, and being TOWED.Part of the hydraulic pump, which is driven off air pump, sheared off causing a total hydraulic failure, and the fittings on the power steering unit on the front axle were leaking. It would not leak at idle or sitting. Prior to total failure Called Freightliner several times and Freightliner service centers and described in detail symptoms, drop in oil pressure, increase engine temp, hard steering, and was told it was O.K. to 'limp' into a service center. Of course this started Friday nite and the service centers reasonably close to me where not open on weekends. As the warranty, 3 years 150,000 miles, expired June of 2003 Freighliner nor Caterpillar claimed any liabilty. Newmar has been NO help.

* This post was edited 02/05/04 08:52pm by trvlr *


Harvey Ellis
2001 Dutch Star 4093
Gainesville, Ga.
'on the road again'


Posted By: mr. ed on 02/04/04 05:48pm

Last year, I had an alternator go out while enroute to a campground. I keep a close eye on my gauges when I travel and I noticed the amp gauge was much lower than normal. Since my mobile mechanic doesn't live too far from the CG I was enroute to, I decided to try to make it to my destination (while on a Los Angeles freeway, no less!).

Well, about a mile from the CG the engine started to die and I knew the voltage was getting too low to sustain it. I just barely managed to pull over to the side of the freeway and called Good Sam Emergency Service. While waiting for the service to arrive I had a brilliant idea. I got out my jumper cables and connected the coach battery directly to the start battery (very carefully, of course). This arrangement gave me enough power to make it to the CG (the Good Sam driver followed me to be sure I would make it). The next day, my mechanic came to the CG and installed a new alternator.

I was grateful that the breakdown happened when and where it did. I could have been out in the desert somewhere and would have had to be towed to an unknown repair shop for service. I much prefer my personal mechanic


Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG
2007 Dodge Ram 3500/6.7 CTD/QC/4X4/SB/SRW/6-speed man/Big Horn edition



Posted By: ocman on 02/05/04 10:17am

We have broken down and used the towing services on our Insurance. We found out how much it cost $700.00 for 100 miles. Our part was $300.00
The only good part of the tow was our MH was home in the driveway after the tow. It cost $45.00 for the repair. I guess you life and learn

Ocman


Posted By: Bud1 on 02/06/04 05:39pm

I got my OBD2 autoscanner at Autozone for 149.99. Good investment!


Posted By: CaptEd on 02/07/04 11:57am

RV: Holiday Rambler Navigator
Cummins M-11 (450HP)/ Allison HD4060 (6-spd WT)
60,000 miles
1998

Breakdown: THREE in One Month!
Symptoms...
1) The day after taking delivery, drove 450 miles and engine began bucking and stalling and finally slowed to 10 mph and quit.
2) Drove 450 miles and engine would not restart after stop.
3) Drove 450 miles and engine began bucking. Engine would not restart after stop.

Effect...
Unable to get engine to operate normally.

Cause...
It was assumed to be dirty/clogged fuel filters. After changing filters (both primary and secondary) twice to no avail, on third failure, fuel pressure checked across Winn/Racor secondary fuel filter system and 25inHg restriction noted (almost a total vacuum). Bypassed third party fuel filter and engine has operated fine since.

Outcome...
Winn/Racor fuel filter system is third party system and as such, will not be repaired by Cummins. Cummins maintains that primary fuel filter (FS-1000) is sufficient and additional filter system unnecessary. Removed Winn/Racor system and disassembled. No obstructions found.


Posted By: bill fontana on 02/07/04 08:52pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ngine
Miles:75,000
Year:1992 dodge D250
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptomsngine quit on freeway
Effectead had to coast ot shoulder
Cause:fuel shut off valve malfunction
Outcome replace fuel shutoff valve


Posted By: bill fontana on 02/07/04 09:04pm

RV particularsodge d250 5th wheel
Driveline rear end
Miles:125,000
Year:1992
Symptoms:growling noise while making right turn
Effect:towed to repair facility
Causeear end gears broken
Outcome /replace rear-end


Posted By: bill fontana on 02/07/04 09:12pm

RV particularsodge d250
Driveline front end
Miles:150,000
Year:1992
Symptoms: growling noise at right front tire
Effect: difficult steering
Cause: wheel bearing disentigrated
Outcome replace complete right wheel assembly including brake


Posted By: bill fontana on 02/07/04 09:25pm

RV particulars: Southwind 32v banks
Driveline ford v10
Miles:36,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: heard something dragging
Effect: pulled over at nearest wide place
Cause: safte-t-plus bracked broken
Outcome removed entire assembly and continued on trip. when I got home returned to purchace place, they repkaced bracket and reinstalled unit (no charge) As you can see from previous posts that the dodge d250 and 5th wheel trailer were sold for MH


Posted By: golfergo on 02/08/04 05:39am

RV particulars: Dolphin LX, 6355
Driveline Workhorse 8.1 Vortec, Allison 1000
Miles:14000
Year:2002
Break Down Description: Brakes freezing up,burning brake pads. Rt front at 8000 miles, RT rear at 8500 miles, L front at 12000 miles, L rear at 14000 miles.
(Symptomsoach pulls to one side, strong burning smell, wheel covers too hot to touch.
Effect:Towed to nearest Workhorse facility, Loss of use of coach for about 1 month total.
Cause: No plausible explanation from Workhorse.
Outcome: All brakes finally replaced, pads, calipers, rotors.
Coach is still in shop waitin for parts for the last event


Posted By: SteveRit on 02/08/04 09:42pm

RV particulars: 85 30's Southwind
Driveline (454 Chevy P30 chassis:
Miles:64k
Year:1985
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Driving along, by Salton Sea in California all lights go out, no lights no signals. Engine still running
Effect: Can't see to drive, spent rest of night on the side of the road, then drive to town
Cause: Fusible link by starter
Outcome: Get link replaced and problem solved.


Posted By: mbwalshmpls on 02/09/04 09:15am

Vehical is a 1979 Georgie Boy , Dodge 440

Problem - Transmission over heat.

Bought the MH from my parents last year. While driving through the UP of Mich I saw a lot of smoke coming from under the coach. Checked it out and found that transmission fluid was running from a relief in the front pump and dripping onto the exhaust. Fluid was very low. Kept adding tillcould get into a town where I could have it checked out. Also notices that the temp gauge was showing below normal operting temp and the cooler was cool to the touch. (This transmission had been replaced about 2 years prior following a catastrophic failure of the original.) When I got to the transmission service company they dropped the pan and only found very burnt fluid, no metal to speak of. I asked the to back flush the cooler lines, they got a big load of junk out. Everything worked great afterwards. Temp gauge acted normal and trannie gave us no more trouble.

My assumption is that the service company replaceing the transmission DID NOT flush the cooler during replacement causeing a bad overheat and excess pressure condition when under heavy load such as uphill pulling a car on a dolly.

Something to think about when getting major service.


Posted By: jntrox on 02/09/04 11:17pm

Hi Jim:

The fuse was a 20 amp automotive type.

I think it blew that morning when I tried to start the generator, I don't remember the sequence that took place to blow the fuse, but it never happened again yet!

At first I was concerned as to what blew the fuse, then I remimered that something happened that morning.

I now have the fuse labled in case it happens again.

Thanks

Jim T


Posted By: madmtbiker on 02/10/04 04:29pm

Although this was a couple years back when we had a Class C, it's worth noting here...

RV particulars:
DrivelineEngine, Transmission): Ford 460V8, ?
Miles: Approx. 67000
Year: 1985 HR Alumalite

Symptoms: Died suddenly while on freeway as if ingition was turned off.

Effect: Tried to restart but it wouldn't until after a few minutes. After it started, traveled another 10-15 miles and the same thing happened. This went on for the entire 110 mile trip (one way).
Got to a auto parts store and they said it's the coil. Replaced it and it still failed.

Cause: Turned out to be the ignition controller which was mounted on the firewall. A thermal problem was causing it to short.

Outcome: Replaced and never had the problem again.


Albert, Mary, & Chelsie
The Little Engine That Could
1997 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 V8 4x4
Surf
1993 Bayliner Ciera 2655 26ft Cabin Cruiser
Turf
2003 Nomad 190LT TT


Posted By: mbger on 02/12/04 12:13pm

Since getting rid of my old class A Seabreeze I33 on a 460 Ford, I have had no breakdown problems. No fuel pump (in the tank) failures, no transmission rebuilds (total of three trans in 34000 mi), no Dana rear end failures, and no power (until I put on a full Banks). All the while towing a Suzuki Samuri or Jeep Wrangler. And I dealt with this problem for 9+ years!

2002 Fleetwood Expedition 34M, 300 Cummins w/Allison 6sp. The chassis, engine, trans...Outstanding. Fleetwood...very iffy quality control, but good concepts.

The best way to avoid breakdowns... new tires every 5 to 6 years regardless of mileage!!!


Posted By: CaptEd on 02/13/04 11:21am

See previous post of 2/7/04

UPDATE:
Coach wouldn't start two days ago. Temp had been in single digits again, but slightly above freezing.... snow still standing.

1) Had noticed considerable sucking sound and "beer canning" sound of fuel tank when re-fueling, but wrote it off as just normal for non-vented tank. (I just bought this coach, so had no history to compare it to)
2) Drained Fuel/Water Filter (FS1000) and had long sucking sound before fuel drained. (Very little water)
3) Started engine, but it quit after running about 15 seconds. Would not start thereafter. Spent over 3 hrs trying to troubleshoot until batteries drained and had to call tow service.
4) Cummins service found fuel tank vent plugged. Vent line (1/2" hose) runs down below compartment (Curbside) where it is vulnerable to road debris, water, snow, etc. Engine started and no other problems found.
5) Theory was that the vacuum formed in fuel tank from plugged vent allowed air to be drawn into fuel filter when petcock opened to drain water. This allowed all the fuel in the line to be sucked back into the fuel tank, leaving the line full of air. Unable to prime the engine (Winn/Racor electronic air purge was bypassed due to suspect in former problems) so the engine would not start, and batteries ran down in unsuccessful attempt to draw fuel.

Monaco tech service says they have very few reports of this causing problem to other Navigator owners and continue to use this same venting on current models. They offered no solution, and have made no re-design of venting system. Comment was made that the fuel vent line was more than likely plugged when delivered by dealer and has been the cause for all four breakdowns.

Cummins technician suggests removing fuel cap before draining FS1000 in the future, and if difficulty starting engine, especially if vacuum present at fuel cap.

I re-installed Winn/Racor system (after having disassembled unit entirely and establishing the fact that there was no obstruction to fuel flow). Air purged using electronic panel (fuel line opened for this procedure) and engine started with no problem.

From now on, any vacuum found when removing fuel cap will be investigated.

NOTE: For owners of older model coaches with Winn/Racor fuel filter system requiring Racor 200200 30-micron filter, this filter is obsolete and supplies are almost (if not) gone. An upgrade kit is available to replace this with another filter/water separator bowl that is readily available. You can specify an aluminum or plastic see-thru bowl. The spin-on filter can be separated from the bowl and replaced at a much lower cost than the 200200, so the recovery of the upgrade kit cost is quick.


Posted By: danbcou on 02/15/04 12:12am

Hello a bit of a back yard mechanic but i know of a sensor called a map sensor its job is to stop fuel distribution in the event of an accident the sensor is a small ball bearing situated in a small contact zone but with a jar i dont know the physics or force needed to dislodge this bearing but when this happens electric power is interupted to the fuel pumps Its posible that the jolt caused the sensor to hickup the sensor is usualy mounted on the fire wall under the dash board


Posted By: jim919 on 02/15/04 06:19pm

I had a problem with my 95 Safari, Cummins 300. It would run fine for 500-900 miles, or sometimes only 2-3 miles than when I would come to a stop,it would loose all power and black smoke would pour out of the exaust . I was towed in twice and nothing could be found. We changed filters and it would run fine for a while. Well to make a LOOOONG story shorter. This was over a 15-18 month period. It finaly acted up and stayed broke. The villian was a sticking electric/neumatic valve controling the exaust brake. When it would act up, and when I stopped and changed filters or was towed in it fixed itself by leaking by. Thank goodness it finaly stuck and stayed closed. Hopefully this will help someone down the road.





Posted By: JR&PM2 on 02/18/04 03:25pm

A early Saturday morning stopped for fuel in Texarkana. RV pump would not work had to use the car pumps and some Mexican nationals haluing car poited out to wife that the LPG tank did not look right. The welds on the rear bracket had broken and all that was holding it was the hose. The car haulers got out their own chain and chained it up. Roadcare could not find any one open to either fix or tow. we moved from pumps and disconectted the toad. We went to Home Depot and bought more chain because the fron welds were cracked. Spent the weekend at a local campground and Monday morn Shady Pines RV put us ahead and rewelded the beackets.


2001 Pinnacle 36'
2000 Honda CRV
1 Pappilon Maddie
SMI brake system


Posted By: jeff_peters2001 on 02/18/04 07:33pm

Where to begin, Well two different Motor Homes;
1998 Dolphin 36ft Chevy 454.
Towed twice, Both times were fuel pump problems. The large Chevy Truck dealer failed to keep up with Service Bulletins and a small town car dealer instantly knew what was wrong. The in tank electric Fuel Pump assembly needed to be replaced due to a connector that was too small and overheated causing a poor connection. The large dealer kept changing the Pump only and the plug was located 10 inches away at the top of the tank.

1999 DS DP ,Freightliner, Cat 300.
After getting fuel and getting back on I95 in Georga, I lost power steering and then the Check engine light came on. Pulled off and found that all of the PS fluid (Dextron III) had been lost. Fluid was all over the ground and the front of my toad. Cleaned it up a little and called Freightliner for help. The tech. said that there was a recall for the PS fluid filter. The system would develop pressure spikes from the side radiator fan cutting on and off. These pressure spikes caused the filter gasket to blow out. Freightliner suggested that we bypass the filter assembly until they sent me a kit to repair the problem. We found a hose shop that had a fitting that we used to bypass the Filter base.
The repair kit was a capture air tank that allowed the pressure spikes a place to dissipate the energy.

Freightliner did not use the PS fluid filter in my new 2002 DS motor home, may less is better.

Jeff


Full timing and loving it for 5 years.


Posted By: Trablyn on 02/26/04 08:36pm

RV particulars: 1998 Monaco Windsor
Driveline (Cummins 6C 8.3 300hp Turbo Diesel: Allison MD3060 6-speed WT):
Miles: 15,714 and at 32,662
Year: Sept 1998 and Jan 2001

Break Down Description: Three episodes of discovering that 12volt system was not functioning. The first experience was a Newbie "Duh", and turned out to be the doorway 12v disconnect switch being bumped (and switched off) while unloading after a trip. The two noted above were a result of equipment failure.
Symptoms: All 12v electrical inoperative.
Effect: house lights, thermostat, appliances, etc., without power
Cause: failure of continuous duty solenoid located in main automotive panel.
Outcome: first failure replace under regular warranty, 2d occurrence covered under extended warranty and fixed using an upgraded heavy duty solenoid. Work was done by my RV dealer.


Randy

98 Monaco Windsor 34'
06 Saturn Vue V6


Posted By: liljoe on 02/26/04 10:39pm

Break Down: Tranny would not shift or even realize it was in 1st,2nd or Drive.

Vehicle: 94 Ford F250 7.5L E4OD Trans

Actual Problem: 16.00 vehicle speed sensor

Ford has these vehicle speed sensors on many of the electronic trans trucks and if the vehicle has no idea what speed it is going because the vehicle speed sensor is out to lunch, the transmission has no idea what speed it is going, when to shift or even what gear to be in.

Symptoms: I thought for sure the Tranny was gone. Vehicle wanted to start in Drive gear or even 2nd and not shift or extremely hard shifts.

It is worth every penny of 16.00 to purchase this little plastic part and throw in your glove box for that one rainy day. I have a new one in my glove box right now. Don't leave home without it.


Joe
Tow Rig: 94Ford F250 4x4,7.5L 460,Sterling 1 ton rear,4:10's,Gear Vendors U/O drive, complete E40D upgrade with manual presure riser,Banks power pack, MSD ignition,Tornado throttle body spacer,4core radiator, B&M engine oil cooler behind a 96 bumper, MG 220 Alternator,K&N AF,Dbl stack plate 30k GVW trans cooler, B&M 3.2qt. trans pan (22qts AMS OIL), full guage cluster, Advanced 2qt diff cover (5qts Redline),Bilsteins, 5k airbags, 10ply Toyo's. Yes, it will pull a house down!

TT: 2003 Arctic Fox 26XFKS
Honda Rancher 3504x4 ATV x2
Suzuki LTA50 ATV


Posted By: Journeyman38 on 03/03/04 12:25am

What kind of rack are you useing to support that hog?


Posted By: Quixote on 03/03/04 10:55am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine 300HP Cummins ISB, Transmission Allison 6spd, Freightliner XC chassis, Damon Ultrasport 2002):
Miles:approx. 5000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: red "stop engine" light display on dash.
Effect:No physical symptoms with driveability of vehicle (all gages showed o.k.)
Causengine oil pressure sensor failure, causing signal to be sent to engine ECM indicating low oil pressure. Problem apparently due to rear-engine vehicles running warmer.
Outcomeroblem known to Cummins Engine. Vehicle towed to Cummins dealership for replacement of sensor and wire harness, and recalibration of ECM software.


Posted By: Badeye on 03/03/04 11:42am

Quixote,

Just for your information, the sensor that supplies the information to the dash is not the same sensor that goes to the ECM. I did not realize this till I had a problem with my sensor that goes to the dash guage.


Posted By: The Sand Man on 03/05/04 06:35am

Horror Stories...wanna hear? Southbound on I-75 headed to the Bristol Spring Race, two years ago. We were in the hammer lane running 70 MPH when all the sudden a violent vibration occurred. I moved into the pokey lane, rather quickly I might add, then the rear end just blew up. After two tow trucks and a lenthy stay in in Lexington KY, everything was fine. Followed up the next week with a fully loaded rig, toad in tow, to Panama City Beach Fl, no problem after that. Honestly, we loved that coach!!!

RV particulars:Georgie Boy Cruise Air
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)hevy 454
Miles:22,000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptomsevere vibration in the rear end
Effectomplete disenegration of the rear pig
Cause:unconfirmed catastrophic failure
Outcome:New ring and pinion, new LH axle, hub, brake caliper and pads.


Pat and Cassie Hayes
2004 Ultrasport with Subaru Toad!
Sarah, Cami, Hailey and Sam


Posted By: The Sand Man on 03/05/04 06:46am

Second horror story...really not so bad. While enjoying a nice ride up US 231, south of Montgomery Al, the sudden odor of diesel fuel rolled from the back to the front our 2001 Gulf Stream Sunsport. it just happened to be dark outside...but, at first look under the coach I thought we had big problems. Well, to our surprise, the problem was a loose fuel line fitting on the injector pump. One small problem...the fitting was 3/4" and all I had was a pair of channel locks. Long story short, we had the fitting tight enough to make it to the Montgomery Al Wal-Mart store. I now keep that 3/4" stubby (wrench) with me when ever we travel.

RV particulars:2001 Gulf Stream Sun Sport
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:17,000
Year:2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:Nice odor of raw diesel
Effect:numbing
Cause:loose fuel fitting at injector pump
Outcomeinor loss of time,


Posted By: denisondc on 03/13/04 07:17pm

My breakdown:
* 1972 Winnebago D22, on Dodge M400 chassis, 413 engine, 727 tranny.
* 90,000 total miles.
* 1972 RV. It happened in 2002, the RV was 30 years old.
Break Down Description: Driving along at 55 mph on the last day of a 3 week 4000 mile vacation, the engine lost oil pressure completely, and though it was running nicely, we shut it down as soon as we saw the gauge reading. It may have been zero for many miles.
Symptom: There had been a very slight valve ticking noise for the last 40k miles, since we got it 11 years earlier. Im used to a little tappet noise in old mopar engines.
Effect: Anxiety. Engine water temp and all other gauges normal. Motor sounded fine, no plume of smoke, no oil trail behind us.
Cause: A bent pushrod finally wore in two from rubbing against the head casting, the pieces dropped away, and the cam lobe pitched the lifter up out of the bore. This opened up the oil gallery, so lots of flow but zero pressure reading on both of my oil p. gauges.
Outcome: We got it towed the 200 miles home - $700. First time-ever tow.
Post Mortem: The bent pushrod pieces and lifter were in the cam valley. None of the pieces got in the way of anything else. I replaced the pushrods, and while I was at it, the engine bearings, timing chain, front and rear main seals, and other things easy to reach with the radiator out. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, and painted the top of the now clean engine. The old bearings showed no sign of adverse wear beyond what you would expect at 90,000 miles. I spent about $800 on parts, and about 2 months of pleasant weekend free time.
I have had several other "events' that could have been breakdowns but I was able to fix them while we were stopped for sightseeing, eating, or cammping: fuel filter clogging, finicky headlight switch, vapor lock - solved that with heat shielding, vent cover broke off, broken throttle cable, kink in shifter cable, ign points needing replacement, etc.


72 Winnebago D22T


Posted By: Waynrdude on 03/14/04 07:54pm

Wow, I like to read these postings but maybe they should be broken up into makes of RV and gas/diesel. I told my wife after we had been seeing the maps on back of motorhomes with the states filled in by color, I told her those maps must be the sates that they have broken down in!

For a $2.00 part in your tool bag this might save some time. We had a left rear air bag failure. After being on the phone with HR (no help) we were painfully aware that we were 80 miles from anyone to fix our problem. When we called around local no one wanted to even work on a "Roadmaster" chassis. We were quoted 1 to 2 weeks.

After climbing under the motorhome for a couple of hours learning what did what, I determined that the air bags were good but the "air switch" that tells the air to fill or let the air our was bad. You are not supposed to run this chassis with a bag down, especially the rear because of the drive line.

I went to a tractor supply place, (any auto parts or Walmart will have them) and bought a female air chuck like you use on a air hose. The air bags have a "T" at each wheel well because they split the air going into the two bags. When you take the "T" loose it leaves a 1/4" male fitting that screws right in to the air chuck. Take a hose an air it up to be level when the other bags are up. It got me 80 miles to the service center, I could have finished the trip. The motorhome was under warranty but they would not tow it.

The biggest problem was, it was Friday and we got to the service center after hours and they were closed on Saturday, diagnois was on Monday, part was flown in on Tues.

RV particulars:2002 Holiday Rambler
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:15,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Motorhome leaning bad to one side.
Effect:
Cause: Bad air level switch


2002 Blue Holiday Rambler Endeavor.
Our Toad is a Beetle 2001 Blue.
Full time by 2005 is the goal.
Alaska this summer, let's go!
WB4IEJ is my ham call, what's yours?


Posted By: Waynrdude on 03/14/04 08:28pm

Here's a short one, Cummings diesels on Holiday Ramblers have sensor problems. It did happen in South Georgia in a terrible rain and wind storm and it might be contributed to that. We fueled up at Flying J in Valdosta. Thirty miles latter the warning light come on. All guages said ok. We made it to I-10 and pulled off and checked all fluids and hoses, nothing. Got back on the freeway after calling Holiday Rambler (no help). Then 30 miles down the road the STOP RED light came on and the computer put it in limp mode and throttled back on the turbo. I relied on the gauges and limped in to Ocala where our trip was taking us. I called Cummins and it would be a week before we could get in. We took the HR to Daytona and no lights came on and then drove back to Ocala.

Cumming said "there are a lot of bad sensors on the 330 hp" I had them do the 15K on the engine and the lights never came on


RV particularsR 2002 Endeavor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins / Allison
Miles:15,000
Year:2002
Break Down Description:
Symptomsarning and Stop lights on
Effectcares the heck out of you
Cause: Bad sensors or water in computer sensor


Posted By: zerkon on 03/18/04 06:41pm

Thanks for one of the best ideas yet on this forum. This information reported is valuable not only for the current owners of RV's, but also those who are buying or trading up. Heading out on a trip with maintenance/failure data our your ride is the best thing to know, outside of fuel availability.

Would like to suggest to add only one thing and that is cost of a given repair. (Note that some costs have been reported, and yes to those who are going to write in with the following cliche which we have all heard since grade school "If you have to ask about cost, then you should not be trying to be kool like us big, rich guys.")

This would provide some cost-effectiveness data for RV's. Is it better to have a RV that takes a number of small repairs of a few bucks or one that chews $7000 dollars a wack and out of service during your vacation and still has some small repairs. Cost data would tell us that.

Admittedly, at this point, processing all the current data without cost will be very difficult and time consuming, considering that much of it is coming in other than in the requested format. But the non-standard reports are still valuable.


Posted By: AlanWelch on 03/20/04 08:30am

RV particulars:1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 36' Diesel
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ummins ISB, Allison
Miles:approx 10,000
Year:1999
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Overheating light kept coming on
Effect: I had to slow way down to about 30 mph to keep it off
Causead water pump
Outcome:I was told by Cummins to drive it slowly to Amarillo (about 100 miles away). They replaced water pump and no further problems. They said they had a bad batch of water pumps on this year model rig.


Alan - Driver
Janella - Support
2004 Monaco Diplomat 40' 3 slides
2001 Hyundai Santa Fe


Posted By: tiekoon on 03/20/04 04:33pm

This is a terrific subject, especially for us new to the RV world. Unfortunately I am able to contribute two breakdowns but hope others may learn from them as I have. Best advice I have found is to keep a cool head and everything in perspective when these unexpected situations visit you. Also helps to have all warrantee, engine, transmission and chassis manufactures emergency and roadside service numbers at easy reach IN the coach. Of coarse a good cell phone and service doesn’t hurt either!

First One:

RV particulars: 2003 NRV Tradewinds LTC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350 turbo ISC, Allison 6000
Miles: 650
Year: 2003

Break Down Description: Loss of power @ 7,500 ft. elevation….. First trip (shakedown)

Symptoms: Heard a loud bang (like something fell on the floor) just after starting first thing in the morning. Idle RPM ok! No engine warning indicator lights on, humm?

Effect: After putting in gear and driving away slowly (residential area) it felt like the engine was a little weak. Upon pulling onto major street and asking for power only got about 20%. Engine could barely muster 800 RPM while in Drive but 2000 if in Neutral? Drove about a mile then limped back to house to call Cummins.

Cause: The air intake hose between the cold air box and the turbo had come apart because the clamp was not tightened properly. Loss of turbo pressure! That’s what we thought it might be but no boost gage to verify. Unfortunately the separation was where you couldn’t easily see it.
NO boost pressure to turbo ---- NO power! Especially at that elevation in the mountains!

Outcome: Cummins was very responsive and arranged to flat bed tow the coach to nearest service center (50 miles). There they made a quick diagnosis and fix. Guilty party was Freightliner, who had installed the air hose and cold box to engine and they didn’t hesitate to pick up the tab for the whole mishap.

Jack


Posted By: tiekoon on 03/20/04 04:35pm

Second One:

RV particulars: 2003 NRV Tradewinds LTC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350 turbo ISC, Allison 6000
Miles: 3750
Year: 2004

Break Down Description: Loss of power (slow engine shut down) while driving up grade on freeway.

Symptoms: Warning buzzer sounded on dash, followed by “check engine indicator light”, then “red shut down engine indicator light”, about 15 seconds later “low oil pressure indicator light”. Also during this two-minute “bells & whistles drill” the oil pressure, as indicated on gage, slowly receded to zero.

Effect: Engine was put into automatic shut down mode do to loss in oil pressure.

Cause: Defective oil pressure switch

Outcome: Thanks to cell phone, Cummins was very responsive and had a roadside service tech to me in two hours. Upon arrival the Tech confirmed our phone diagnosis and installed new oil pressure switch and then reprogrammed the ECM to see the new style pressure switch. And yes, the new switch is different and supposedly much less sophisticated and trouble prone than the original. Of coarse, No Charge……all under warrantee!

In spite of the inconvenience I was very happy with the Cummins response to my breakdown, being back underway in less that three hours of calling their 800 emergency number. Also, for what it may be worth; on the QT, I was told this is a common problem with the older ISC engines. I would estimate that my engine was manufactured in early 2002. If you have one, you may want to check it out or upgrade at next service. The Tech also upgraded my ECM software from the original version 11 to version 16 (the latest) but I haven’t noticed any difference in operation or performance.

Jack


Posted By: zephyringalong on 03/20/04 10:58pm

This is a fantastic topic. I have a story of a breakdown with supposed CSP coverage (or so I thought).

Motorhome:
2001 Tiffin Zephyr, 60,000 miles
450HP Cummins ISM
Allison 6000 Trans.
On a trip to Texas last month, a trucker came alongside and motioned to listen on the CB. I did and he told me I had fluid coming out the rear vent. I stopped and found the Freightliner plastic reservoir had a split in it and the antifreeze was boiling out. Not much of a problem. Got to Freightliner in Amarillo, (opened 24hrs) and had that replaced. Cost 175.00. Left in the morning towards Wichita Falls only to have it overheat again. Called ahead to Freightliner in WF and was informed that my fan switch was defective and the Charge Air Cooler (commonly known as an Intercooler for the turbo)had a crack in it. I went on my way as they had to order the parts anyhow and as long as I kept the MH below 65 and no hills, (none in Texas anyhow) I had no problem. Theycalled when the parts came in and on the way back to AZ I stopped and they installed both parts. I thought I was covered by the CSP insurance from Goodsam, but found out it does not cover the Charge Air Cooler. Nowhere in the contract does it say that however. Anyhow at a cost of another $3000.00 I had it fixed and so far all is well. I had lost power as well due to the split in the Charge air cooler. About 20% or so.
I do not believe the insurance cost for breakdowns if worth it especially on a less than 5 year MH.


Posted By: Benzy on 03/21/04 01:46am

Hey guys and gals...

Problem: Overheating
On the way back from Florida. (Jacksonville)
Pulled into a rest area, temp gauge went up, spraying fluid all over the place.
'92 Overland Diesel Pusher, Allison Trans, Cummings Diesel.
Great Rig....

Anyway, got stopped, and couldn't do anything that night. Next morn, (Sat.) contacted Cummings and they were great. I replaced the water pump, and attempted to head home. Next thing I know I had no gauges, wipers or dash lights.

Cummins allowed us to stay with them and even connect to a lighthouse and water and sewer. Great people at Cummins.

Contacted Freightliner, had to wait for four days to get in, (something about not taking reservations..yah right..) when they looked at the rig, they confirmed what I had said and without fixing anything they hand me a bill for almost 300.00 I explained that they fixed nothing waould be paid accordingly. They took the rig back in and with my elect. diagram, and some extra relays of mine finished the job. They still tried to get me to pay a bill of over 600.00.

I called their customer service and the bill was reduced to 268.00.
I still paid to much, but I'm learning to choose my battles.

Not a good experience, but still a learning one. We are home now, and I plan on doing some major over hauling of the elect. system set-up. Clean up the grounds and try to get a better understanding of it all.

But we plan on heading out again later this fall, (Oct through May)
We'll keep everyone posted.

Benzy


Benzy


Posted By: dcarpenter252 on 03/21/04 04:03pm

I have had several breakdowns over the years but nothing that left me on the side of the road. I am the person all my friends call when they have problems.

1 1995 sun voyager,Spartan chassis,cummings 210
power solinoid. starter soleinoid

2 99 tradewinds.freightliner,cat 300
I had coach serviced at freightliner of columbia for recall and bad fuel gauge under warranty. they also replaced the chassis batteres under warranty? the very next trip shortly after leaving home the coach shut down and would not start,found battery cable loose, on this same trip ran out of fuel with gauge showing 1/4 tank.

3 pulled in at a grocery store and lost all air pressure. found where a coupling in air line had come apart.

4 blowout inside rear curb side, after limping to tire repair shop and paying $240 to have a used tire installed the coach would not start. shorted starter solenoid and drove the coach home. found that the transmisson neutral sense relay was mounted in compartment behind this tire. the blast from the blowout knocked the relay loose from the socket it was mounted in.

5 when leaving to take coach to trade it in the air conditioner compressor locked up. removed compressor and replaced belt with a shorter belt and took it to tampa.

I now have A new Beaver Santiam just waiting to see what happens now!

2004 quad slide Beaver
2002 F150
1995 Jeep Cherokee


Posted By: HCB on 03/23/04 08:16am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 5.9L 300 Cummins/Allison 6Spd
Miles:19.875
Year:03
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:Not running right and missing part of time Thought I had water in fuel, changed fuel filter twice over next several days.
How I knew it was pump was to turn switch on with fuel filter loose and not fuel pumping into filter.
Effectevere jerking and missing when on throttle hard
Cause: Bad pick up fuel pump.
Outcomeummins replaced pump, runs great now.


Posted By: sigthor on 03/26/04 08:49am

Rv Particulars: 2001 Allegro Bay Diesel Pusher
Driveline: Cummins 275ISB, Allison MD3060 6sp
Miles: 13000
Year: Nov 2003

Breakdown Info:
Symptons: Loud Bang when starting up grade from a stop.
Effect: Fwd motion ceased and rearward motion began.
Cause: Universal Joint failed, driveshaft dropped to ground.

Coach had been serviced by selling dealer 30 days/3000miles prior. There was no evidence of grease in failing universal joint. Selling dealer picked up repair cost of $977. Had to wait for 5 days for parts, including Thanksgiving. I now grease driveshaft myself! Is required every 6000 miles.


2001 Allegro Bay DP, Banks Stinger Installed
2007 Wrangler X Unlimited 4WD, Blue Ox Aventa II


Posted By: mvinkler on 03/26/04 01:18pm

Yes flat tires are the biggest problem, before you drive check the air pressure. Low pressure can cause tires to heat up and explode. Sitting RVs tend to leak, Mine did, taking out the water lines and a big bundle of electrical wires as well.


Posted By: jnjdickson on 03/28/04 08:41am

1999 Gulfstream/Sunsport 8325
Problem/No running lights
Where/ I 95 Sothbound/ Richmond VA
Which meant I couldn't run at night
I took the light switch out, which controls the running lights, which by the way was after I checked all fuses. On the back of the dimmer swith I took a paper clip and crossed jump two connections to give me running lights. I know that's a no no, but you have to do whatever it takes when you're out there. I did keep a very close eye on it and it was find until I got home and found the real problem. Which was a blown fuse I overlooked under the hood. They have two fueses under there both marked number six for running lights, I didn't know that at the time.


Posted By: i49traveler on 03/28/04 12:11pm

96 Monaco Executive 8.3C-300 Cummins
98,000 miles
Engine cranked but would not start
Defective engine shutdown solenoid

We had just finished refueling at a Flying J in Indianapolis and still parked at the pump. When I hit the starter the engine cranked but would not start. A diesel mechanic told me once that one thing to check was the shutdown solenoid. My wife turned the ignition on and it did not move. An employee at Flying J reached in and held the solenoid closed while I engaged the starter and it started so that was the problem. We took a bungee and hooked one end to the solenoid linkage, ran it down under the frame and hooked the other end to another point to hold the solenoid closed. We started the engine and drove 1,000 miles back home. Of course, to shut the engine down we had to release the bungee then hook it up again to start the engine. Our son located a new solenoid on Ebay for a fraction of the cost of one in Indianapolis so we had it installed when we returned home and saved quite a few bucks as well as wasting a lot of time hanging around a strange repair shop.


i49traveler


Posted By: xctraveler on 03/29/04 11:44am

2001 Damon Daybreak on Workhorse P32, 34000 miles.

Broken down again. After normal days drive I shut down in parking lot to shop and pick up dinner. Decided to stay over and went to start theengine to relocate to a more level spot. Starter engaged but would not crank the engine.

Towed to GMC dealer on Friday, still waiting for diagnoses on Monday 3/29 at kids house, 200 miles from MH and 500 miles from home.

The difference from last year is we had power in the ignition system and were able to release the parking brakes.


Posted By: herbtrout on 03/29/04 08:24pm

36ft 2000 Itasca sunflyer I suppose you might call this a breakdown or you could call it a piece of tire story. we were south bound on I75 when a piece of tire (not verry big)appeared that i couldn't miss so i went over it. NOT a good thing!! as best i can tell the piece of tire hit the tail pipe, knocked it into the left rear tire which ran over the end of the tail pipe removeing every thing after the catilic converter. that was not all, the exaust pipe goes up over the drive shaft so the tail pipe removed the drive shaft. didn't go far after that. the exaust system was a banks system so parts had to come from cal. they sent almost all the parts. I would suggest avoiding tires.


Posted By: clifflois on 03/29/04 09:04pm

Driveline: ISB 5.9L Cummins, Allison 5sp
Miles: 32000
RV: 2000 Kountry Star

Symptoms: Yellow Engine Light came on while driving uphill.
Effect: Kept losing Coolant
Cause: Cracked engine block.
Outcome: Cummins replaced block under warranty. Have gone about 4000 miles since repaired with no problems.


2000 Newmar Kountry Star DP
5.9L Cummins
Cliff, Lois, and 2 wolf hybrids


Posted By: hoodbird on 04/01/04 03:20am

I had the same problem with monaco dynasty and king control. Was stoped in town at a busy intersection. Had a roll of heavy string. tied it to the control in the engine, unrolled it until my wife could stand by me in front. She would pull the string to speed up and let off to slow down. We made it home (10 miles) then orderd a new one from king control no further trouble.


Dee Hood


Posted By: Trablyn on 04/01/04 06:25am

Quote:

hoodbird commented "I had the same problem with monaco dynasty and king control"

Dee: You were message #159 concerning breakdown information, and there is no reference to which message you were responding to. You can use the "quote" feature to assist in this area. I have had "King Control" (cruise control unit) problems with my Monaco in the past, and would have an interest in cases like yours. Thanks


Posted By: mvanmeter on 04/02/04 06:49pm

Recently while traveling west on I-10, my dash alarm went off and the trans check lite came on. I looked at the two digit display on my allison 6 speed and it had what looked like snake eyes displayed.

I pulled over to the side and stopped. Pushing the buttons did nothing to change the display. Being new to this rig, I didn't know what was going on. The engine was still running and it would move forward in given fuel. I switched off the engine to see if the trans would reset. Big mistake. The engine would not crank.

Called Foretravel tech support and they walked me through a lenghtly check, but it appeared to be the ECU. Required being towed to nearest Allison shop where they confirm ECU failure.

Allison does not rebuild this unit or take your old unit for core charge. The base unit is $2,000.00 plus $820.00 to program said unit.

Equipment Description:
1993 Foretravel GV
Cummins 8.3 (105000 Miles)
Allison MH3060 6 Sp

Side Note: Do not shut off engine if this happens. The engine will have to be jump started so unit can be towed with drive shaft attached.


mvanmeter


Posted By: xctraveler on 04/07/04 07:02pm

Follow up to my most recent post.

The ignition switch was the culprit again. This switch on the Workhorse Chassis is located on the steering column just above the floor. This is the sencond failure in less than 9,000 miles.

A residual from the first tow, last year, was a munged up drive shaft bolt (I think that is a technical term). This time the tow truck operator was unable to undo one of the four bolts and bent the cap to remove the shaft. Parts and labor came to $160 for the drive shaft, another $550 for the diagnosis and replacement of the switch and a fuse. Thank you very much Workhorse! They paid for everything and there are still 30 days on the warranty and 1200 miles!

Goliath is in the process of being traded for a 2004 Soutwind 36E.


Posted By: Featherdog on 04/10/04 02:34pm

Got gas, got on interstate 65, lost all power. Easter Sunday of course 2 years ago. Finally got a tow truck. Took to Scary town in Columbia, TN across the street from crack houses. They did not know it was Easter. Next day, took for $200 for a fuse. Got 20 miles down the road, thought flat tire, big bulge on driver front tire, must have been the tow truck. Now second tow truck, the tire blew up on my husbands arm. Lucky he lived, new front tires cost $500. If you ever have tire that is bulged, please make sure the tow truck guy lets the air out, lot of pressure there, the guy at the tire store said he should have been dead, sounded like a bomb going off.
Still not real comfortable on the road.
Featherdog
96 Itasca


Posted By: Buckeye Bounder on 04/11/04 10:45am

2004 Fleetwood Bounder Diesel 38N
Freightliner chasis, Cummins engine 300 hp ISB 5.9L, Allison transmission 3000H, 900 miles

Leaving Flying J after refueling and crossing overpass when a loud "clunk" was heard from the rear followed by a deceleration type of effect. Nothing noted under vehicle. Drove to another gas station on other side of overpass. All sensors and guages normal, transmission check normal. Took another short test drive. Same noise followed by rubbing/soft grinding kind of noise. Eventually towed to Freightliner. They will check it out on Monday (due to Easter). Initial inspection appears to be driver's side dual wheel trying to run off axle! Will post follow-up. Refer to longer story under separate Class A post.

edit: Drove MH home on 4/22/04 with everything fixed. Freightliner had to replace the whole left rear end. No explanation on cause. My take, after talking with several people, the two nuts holding the wheel on were either not torqued correctly or just came loose.

* This post was edited 04/24/04 06:07am by Buckeye Bounder *


Posted By: Tumblebug on 04/11/04 11:09am

Here goes my first attempt to reply--couldn't keep quiet on this topic.
Driveline: Cummins ISC 330 w/Allison 6 Speed
Miles: 39000
Year: 2001
Breakdown Description: Cruising North on I-95 in Virginia when I lost power steering and a little later engine temp. began to rise. We limped into gas station where hydrolic fluid was ok as was drive belts. Called Spartan who advises hydrolic punp failure or contaminated fluid. Got to campground with aid of roadside assistance and repaired by roadside mechanic in only 5 days.
Symptoms: Sudden failure of power steering with extreem difficulty steering and higher than normal engine temp.
Effect: noted above
Cause: Sheered splines on drive shaft of hydrolic pump which mounts on rear othe air compressor which had a bad bearing.
Outcome: Replaced hydraulic pump, air compressor and related filters and fluids.


'01 Newmar Dutch Star DP
'02 4X4 Jeep Liberty
Retired New Fulltimers
Livin' It and Lovin' It



Posted By: WanttotravelDears on 04/12/04 02:22pm

Well we had a break down about two weeks ago and had to call Good Sam's tow service. Been waiting to post untill I was sure on what had happen. The fuel pump went out and has been replaced which I understand is a problem with the 460 Fords in the age brackey that my MH is which is a 1996 it has about 40000 miles on it and the service center tell me it still had the one that came in it. Sure hope this fixes it will not know until I go someplace in the next week or 2. When this happen it was running fine until I slow down to pull into a rest stop on I-75 it backfired and and lost power when I slow down to about 30 MPH then died. Set for about 30 min. and it started back up but was not running good got back on Interstate and ran fine for about 20 more miles and when I exited to go home it died and would not start then.Up date the fuel pump did fix it runs great now hope this last until I trade up in a few.

* This post was edited 04/21/04 06:28pm by WanttotravelDears *


WanttotravelDears[/b] 1996 Winnebago Adventurer 34RQ 460 with Banks system 2006 Chev Colorado crew cab w/Blue Ox tow bar Cassie and Zoe (the bosses)Maltese:);)

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Don/Shar on 04/13/04 08:50am

Lil trucker
A while back I had the same experience in my car. It would die and not start. After about 15 minutes it would start and run fine. about 3 weeks later it repeated. Nothing was showing up. The garage finally told me next time it happens to call the. They came right out and found the cranking sensor was going bad. i didn't even know there was such a thing as a cranking sensor. May not be your problem but its worth a shot.
Don


Don / Sharon Smith
8th year fulltiming
1 high school sweetheart bride of 51 yrs. Sharon
1 long haired mini dauchound...Jake
1997 Beaver Patriot DP
2004 Jeep Rubicon
http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/smithster_photos/



Posted By: aircraft_electrician on 04/15/04 11:55am

This is the only breakdown we've had with this classic coach in the year that we've owned it. We're looking forward to an even bigger trip this summer, from Idaho to north Texas, then Illinois, Montana and back to Idaho. I'm hoping to keep this the only post in this thread


RV particulars: 26' Revcon 250DT
Driveline: Olds 455 gas engine, front wheel drive
Miles: 79,800
Year: 1974
Break Down Description: Coming home from Salt Lake City (mountains of northern Utah, I-15 north)
Symptoms: Sputtering backfiring and stalling when climbing hill Effect: spent 30 minutes fixing it
Cause: plugged fuel filter
Outcome: changed the fuel filter(I always carry a spare) at the next available rest stop, made it home just fine.


Tom Parsons
1974 Revcon 250DT
455 Olds(front wheel drive)
"Engineered Elegance"


Posted By: pen on 04/16/04 07:34pm

1. F53 Frod 460 ci E4OD transmission
2. 43000 miles
3. 1996
4. Symptoms:
After driving over 550 miles from PA to N Carolina, the unit started to act sluggish when starting at a stop light. The light turned green, hit the gas.......hesitation......finally start out and go..
We were 10 miles from the campground.! ! ! Got to the campground, checked in and drove back to the site. Stopped on the road, dropped the toad, and started to back into the site.... Wouldn't move!! Got out looked at things.. saw smoke from oil on the exhaust pipe.. Checked the tranny oil....LOW... Added 3 quarts... Then it would move back into the site.. Got into the site... Shut down and called my
warranty people to set up the repair.

CAUSE: Unknown: I bought the unit used with 43000 miles on it.

Outcome:
Good sam club arranged the tow for the unit at the end of the week.
The Warranty people (National Warranty of Fla INC) worked with the tranny garage (AMMCO- Yeah but it's nationwide)... After the 5 days I moved us to a Beach side motel
with a rental car (while the R/V was towed away) and waited for the R/V to return fixed.
IT DID ! But darn, we had to spend another 4 - 5 day at the beach waiting for AMMCO to get finished.
National Warranty and Good Sam are worth their weight in gold.!!!

Outcome:
The unit (96 Mountain Aire F53 Ford / Tag axle) Works well now..
Failure Mode Analysis:
I put a transmission temp gauge on it to keep track of the temp..
-Add additional trans cooler if needed.
Thinking of a Banks or other Transcommand type module..
-Better shift and clutch wear control.
Change fluids every other year (6 to 8 M miles)

pen


96 Mountain Aire
3757
F-53


Posted By: Daveinet on 04/18/04 10:13pm

5 breakdowns but never stranded.

Blew heater hose going to rear heater.
Symptom:temp gauge rise, no heat from front heater.
Fix: bypassed heater and filled with water from fresh water tank. If your coach does not have any place where you can hook up your fresh water hose to one of the faucets, you can by an adaptor from any waterbed store. Replaced rear heater hoses once I arived home. (This happened at night, many trucks wizzed by me a couple feet from my head while under coach, not a good feeling.)

Had water pump start leaking
Symptom: temp gauge rise, no heat from heater
Fix: used leak stop until I got to my destination and then replaced.

Blew front heater hose. You'd think I would have replaced all my heater hose from before...
Fix: Bypassed until got to my destination and replaced front hoses

Radiator started leaking
Symptom: Temp gauge rise, no heat from heater (this is starting to get old real fast)
Fix: Copper powder Stop leak. Replaced radiator once I arived home.

Lost brakes
Symptom: Noticed excesive pedal travel when slowing down for cops. So thinking something may not be right, I gave myself plenty of extra stoping distance when I slowed to get off freeway. Hit an open stretch of road with no traffic and did a full test of brakes, I basically had none, I could slow down better by downshifting. Drove real slow to destination.
Fix: Replaced leaking master break cylinder.

I always keep stop leak, oil, antifreaze, trans oil and lots of tools with me at all times.

Coach has ~80K mi GM 454 w/475 trans - Custom FWD drivetrain.

* This post was edited 04/18/04 10:26pm by Daveinet *


Dave

The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
6% grade = wanna drag?
MISC photos
Revconeers Forum



Posted By: burgess001 on 04/19/04 01:07pm

My only breakdown on the road was several years ago with a Jamboree, Class C. Left me dead on the road in KY.

RV particulars:
Driveline Engine Ford 460, Transmission Auto OD
Miles:49,000
Year:91
Break Down Description: Gradual loss of power to the point of not running.

Symptoms: After coming down out of the Smoky Mtns, the 460 began losing power and in only a few miles, just refused to run.
Effect: Coasted to side of road. Would start and run for just a moment, then die. Would immediately die if put in gear.
Cause: Plugged Catalytic Converter
Outcome: Local mechanic changed the fuel filter. Didn't work. A passerby wanted to tear into the distributer. I wouldn't let him. He grumbled and went on his way. Towed to Knoxville. RV Roadhelp was very helpful. Towed us to their lot, leveled us and agreed to tow us to a garage when someone opened on Monday. Later that night towed us to a private garage that agreed to meet us about midnight to work on the unit. The guy spent 3 or 4 hours changing the plugs which I knew I didn't need. I finally suggested disconnecting the exhaust, since it sounded like it couldn't breathe. He did and it ran fine. Had him secure the exhaust open and drove home (10 hours) sounding like a Nascar racer. He charged me $250 to replace the plugs. I get robbed a lot. After getting home, Ford replaced the CC under warranty along with several sensors. Was less than 300 miles from being out of warranty.


Jerry and Katie
More than 20 great years motorhoming and still loving it...
2004 DSDP 3810 (more than I needed...less than I wanted)
2004 Trailblazer (too heavy but well worth dragging)


Posted By: degoldmn on 04/20/04 02:07pm

RV particulars:35' Sportscoach
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford 460 fuel injected, 4 speed
Miles:60K
Year:1991
Break Down Description: Eastbound on I-10 just approaching Blythe, CA doing 60 mph in cruise control. There were several load noises including a tremendous bang on the bottom of the motor home. The engine revved briefly then kicked out of cruise and started coasting down. Application of the gas revved the engine but had no other effect. Coasted off to the side of the road.
Symptoms: No drive power
Effect: Can't go.
Cause: Broken drive shaft, differential destroyed, etc.
Outcome:Vehicle is being repaired in Indio. The most likely scenario according to the shop is that a bearing locked up the axle and destroyed the differential which in turn broke the drive shaft. Incidental damage, inside left rear tire (brand new Michellen), broken generator gas line, one bashed in basement compartment, stepladder in said compartment. Fortunately the compartment and the ladder kept the end of the broken drive shaft from whipping up through the floor of the motor home and possibly damaging us.

* This post was edited 04/20/04 08:05pm by degoldmn *


Dave, Sunny, and the Furpersons
1995 Safari Serengeti 40DP and
1991 Sportscoach M340-Ford (lookin' to sell)
1989 Volvo 740GLE Wagon (toad)


Posted By: darbyjudy on 04/22/04 07:18pm

Motor home 1986 Bounder, chev eng. Mileage 60,000
Engine quit south of Ocala, backfired and coasted to the side of the road. Towed to Clearmont, Fl., dealer found bad ign. coil.

Motor home 1997 Winebago 34 ft. Adventurer, Ford 460 mileage 36000
1st zipper break in left front tire Michelin tire south of Live Oak, Fl. Called Good Sam towing service, installed new tire.
2nd Zipper break in Michelin tire inner right rear, tore up around the wheel well and the fender liner, cost $1600.00 to repair, insurance covered it, Michelin denied any problems but did replace the tire if I signed a release.
3rd Zipper break in Michelin tire on inner left rear, tore up around tire and the wheel well and fender liner. Done with Michelin tires, took them off as soon as I got home. These tires were only a little over two years old when I replaced them, they had abot 10,000 miles on them. I always checked the air pressure for 80lb each and every time I took it out. The tires were built in late 2001 and they were LT236/85R16 load range E XPS Rib.


2004 Gulf Stream 36 ft Sun Voyager triple slide
Workhorse W22 8.1
2004 Saturn VUE w/stowmaster towbar
Two Ole Pharts & One Little CocaPoo named Cuddles


Posted By: fmon on 04/24/04 10:36am

Great feed Badeye.

My problem has been reported a few times, once preceding this.

RV particulars: Allegro 33'
Driveline: 454, 3 speed
Miles: 51,000
Year: 1990

Symptoms: Backfire
Effect: Shutdown
Cause: Coil Module
Outcome: Works ok to date

We were eastbound I-70 just into St Louis.


Frank & Nancy

Allegro w/big tanks
01' Satrun LW200 TOAD
Roadmaster Sterling
Brake Buddy w/Breakaway and Remote


Posted By: marktec1 on 04/27/04 02:58pm

RV Particulars: Winnebago Vectra 32'
DRIVELINE: Ford 460 and ford trans
MILES: approx 40,000
YEAR: 95/96

BREAKDOWN PARTICULARS: after driving approx 200 miles fm home, stopped for fuel on the Maine tpk, and saw a large puddle of pink fluid on the ground under the unit.. trans fluid.. large puddle leaking from somewhere around the bellhousing...
SYMPTOMS: leaking trans fluid at gas stop..
EFFECT: Unknown - i called a wrecker and got towed back home (to my dealer) $900 paid for by dealer - unit was used and still under 30 day warranty)
CAUSE: well, the dealer pulled the tranny and sent it to a transmission shop, and they could find nothing wrong... all speculated the wrong type of trans fluid had been added at the last transmission service - this tranny is apparently fussy about the specific type of trans fluid you put in.. (sorry i dont remember the particulars)
OUTCOME: sold the rv at wholesale - i was souered on the whole rv thing and stayed away until this past november when i bought a new winne journey... with extended warranty..

bob c
riverside ri


Posted By: marktec1 on 04/27/04 03:08pm

RVPARTICULARS: Winnebago Vectra 32
DRIVELINE: Ford 460 w/ford transmission
MILES: approx 41000
YEAR: 95/96

BREAKDOWN DESC: While heading out of town for my next RV Vacation to Bristol TN (nascar races, etc)
SYMPTOMS:i got approx 45 miles from home and heard a thump thump - EFFECT: the unit started to shake rattle and roll all over - i thought the cabinets were gonna fall off the wall..
CAUSE - turns out one of the belts let go in one of the brand new perelli tires (when i bought the unit approx 2-3 months earlier, there were 2 tires needing replacement, the deal with the dealer was he would replace those, and i would pay for(with good discount) the other 4... of course specified tires of proper size, load range, etc..

the vehicle was not overloaded, 4 adults, cloths and food for week, full tank of fuel, app 1/2 tank of water, pulling a pontiac sunfire on a dolly...
(ps this was the second tire to go in a week - the first one went as i was leaving the dealer who had just attached the electronics for the dolly - 1/4 tank of fuel, no water, no food clothes or passengers..

this is when i got rid of the MH... 2 incedents in 2 trips a month or so apart, each ruining a long planned vacation..

bob casale
riverside, ri


Posted By: tjc1989 on 04/27/04 03:09pm

Many of us don't drive the motorhomes in the winter, and they sit for months. The first thing that sticks out in my mind the most, is corrosion to battery cables and other high amp connections. Before taking it out in the Spring, clean all the battery cables and other high amp connections ( such as to solenoids and relays ) Nothing more annoying than a bad ground connection, caused by corrosion somewhere. Causes lots of things to quit working.

The other things can be prevented somewhat, like old fuel, or plumbing problems. Proper fuel additives like Stabil, before storage, or whatever to prolong gas life ( or diesel life ), and proper draining / winterizing of fresh water components. Ruins your day in a hurry to discover a leak in the pipes from freezing. :-)


TJ Class A


Posted By: MartyAndPeg on 04/29/04 11:30am

RV particulars:
Driveline (8.1L Vortec, Allison Transmission):
Miles: 3600
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Leaving a dealership after some warranty work; 1 mile away from delaership, two miles from the RV park where we were staying.
Symptoms: Loud noise between pilot and co-pilot seats, no other indication of a problem.
Effect: Serpentine belt is frayed, and has (2) 7" gouges (belt is onlt about 1/4 wide in areas)
Cause: We believe something was left on the engine at the dealership and it fell into the belt, causing damage.
Outcome: Need to have the belt replaced (May 5th). It will be towed (as per Workhorse) to another repair facility which is approximately 35 miles away.

Yes, this can be annoying. Especially when you are a fulltimer. We had unrelated warranty work performed at a dealership close to the RV park where we are staying until June. One of the repairs was verifying a recall with hydraulic hoses too close to the engine. About a mile from the dealership, we heard a loud bang right between the seats. No loss of power, and everything else seemed OK. Drove back to the park (about two miles), and the next day, while crawling under the coach, I saw the damage to the serpentine belt. We called Workhorse, and they recommended not driving it. The belt is still intact.

2003 Southwind 36B
2003 Ford Focus (the little red toad)
A darling wife and two cats!
Quando omni flunkus moritati (when all else fails, play dead)


Marty & Peg & 2 cats
2005 Tiffin Phaeton 40QDH/350HP Cat/MH3000
2009 Ford F150 4x4/Brake Buddy
2011 Harley Softail Heritage/Rampage Motorcycle Lift
Full-Timing-10 years and counting!

Looking for a purpose in life, try Habitat for Humanity RV-Care-A-Vanners!



Posted By: Jim P on 04/29/04 08:28pm

I also had a Torque converter blow. We were in Oklahoma about 60 miles from Oklahoma City and the nearest Allison Transmission repair service. Luckily we had Sam's insurance. Cell phone was out of range!! Had to walk approx 1 mile and a good samaritan on her way to a bake sale stopped to pick us up with an admonition to not sit on her pies. She dropped us off at a gas station in a small town. Called Sams and proceeded to explain our predicament. Said we were stalled about two miles south of this small town. They wanted a cross street. Told them there was no cross street only a bridge over a river that I barely had enough momentum to get across. Finally after approximately one hour of explaining where we were and where we wanted to go Sams was able to get a wrecker out to tow us to Oklahoma City (no charge). Wrecker came and we found that the wrecker would not allow us to ride in the cab. Our tow car was disabled also. Anyway to make a long story short we finally convinced the tow driver to allow us to ride in the cab (he said he would lose his license if stopped by highway patrol). We told him we wouldn't tell on him. So after 60 miles with my wife on my lap bouncing along over Oklahomas worst highways we finally arrived at the Allison transmission repair garage. Two days later we were on our way again.

The problem with the Torque converter going out was caused by my own stupidity. I usually drop down in gears when coming to a stop sign to allow the engine to help in braking. When I left the stop sign I accelerated OK in 2nd gear, but skipped a couple and went to neutral and stepped on the accelerator. The engine raced up to some ungodly rpm and in a panic I immediately dropped the tranny into DRIVE which blew the converter. Moral of the story don't rev diesel engine in neutral and then engage transmission.


Jim P


Posted By: deltamaster on 05/04/04 11:04pm

RV particulars:2004 Thor Fun Mover Class C
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): F-450 Ford (8?ltr)
Miles:9,000
Year:2004
Break Down Description: Strange smell, brakes pull right, loss of power steering
Symptoms:Nice odor of raw diesel
Effect:Loss of function in brakes and power steering
Causeuptured power steering hose
Outcome: Repaired by ford dealer after 2 days waiting.

Noticed strange metallic smell and wen stopped for traffic light vehicle pulled hard to the right. Stopped in Home Depot parking lot and called Coach Net who contacted tow truck. Driver insisted to tow from the rear. Delivered to dealer after closing. Next day dealer found the power steering hoses were routed against a bracket and rubbed hole in hoses. Parts delivered the next afternoon. All repair covered under warranty. Now tires are wearing incorrectly and are bowed out at bottom since towing. Tow company insists not caused by tow from rear. I insisted there was a problem when reported to dealer. Dealer and tow driver refused to correct. Problem and story to be continued.


Posted By: ryanjenny on 05/10/04 09:19am

good morning
i'm broken down in tucumcari new mexico with a broken hydraulic fan motor. i'm in a 1993 monaco dynasty with a 250hp cummins 8.3L engine. coming out of texas last night i got a high engine light and had her towed to tucumcari new mexico. the hydraulic fan does not engage fully causing her to heat up. any body have any ideas of a fix or where i can get this part out here. I'm stranded and the truck stop is trying to find this part. any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm along way from home. I've my no cell coverage out here.
I'm in the hampton hotel room 105
1-505-461-1111
thanks
Robert


Ryan & Jenny
1995 32' monaco dynasty


Posted By: tom quinlan on 05/10/04 01:33pm

We just got on I-75 in Ocala, FL and were heading South. All instruments were in the green.
Problem: when going up a small are larg incline, MH feels like it's gonna breakdown, jerks, hesitates, etc., then goes ok. This problem on manifests itself when at operating temperature.
Solutuion: Coil bad. breaks down when hot. Replace coil and not problems.


1998 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 32 Ft.
Tom, Kathy and Sydney


Posted By: bwhitt on 05/10/04 08:26pm

The local freightliner shop has diagnostic tools to tell you what happened. Had a similiar experience and they could even tell at what
milge it happened. I learned alot that day about my Allegro and the cat.


Posted By: KA9LCP on 05/11/04 08:28pm

I hate the fact that I need to contribute to this topic but...

I have a '93 Imperial with a Ford 460. I have had similar problems to what Lil Truckr described. I think that I found the problem, (at least part of it) on mine is the knife switch on the negative side of the battery.
I was driving down the road and lost power, the horn honked and then the engine died. I suspected the switch, jumped out and moved it, never opened it though. As soon as I touched the switch, I had power again.

Im not sure if this is normal,I have only owned my RV since October, but with mine, when the switch is closed, the horn honks. That was my indicator that I had lost battery power.


Mike & Theresa
'93 Holiday Rambler Imperial 35


Posted By: ET1(ss) on 05/14/04 10:04pm

RV particulars:
Driveline: 454 V-8
Miles: 173,000
Year: 1989
Break Down Description: Snapped left steering linkage
Symptoms: Left front wheel wildly flopping left and right, will not track with right front wheel.
Effect: Bucking like a bronc, inability to steer, wildly veering any direction it wants to.
Cause: Indiana Potholes
Outcome: 2 day wait while replacement parts arrive from St. Louis.

2 weeks ago, I-44 soutbound, Troy Indiana, happened on a truckstop off-ramp.


ET1(SS) Galen Young, USN Submarine Service - retired
1989 Fleetwood Southwind 30'6", 454 V8
full-timing in Maine
Ya gotta love MH's with a jaquzzi




Posted By: Barnyard on 05/18/04 06:23pm

RV Fleetwood Discovery
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:4,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of electrical power.
Effect:Loss of transmission shifting and all gauges
Outcome: Repaired by Freightliner Lancaster, Pa

Was on my first long distance trip with my 1st RV from NJ to Reno Air Races, left NJ at 0 dark 30 and got to Harrisburg, Pa and noticed my alt gauge well below normal, and then immediately got the alt light on the dash, pulled off at next exit got to the toll booth and the trans wouldn't shiftdown out of 6th. Rolled out from the booth in 6th, and added pedal very, very slowly until I could find a place to park. Stopped there and called freightliner Harrisburg, they said it would take a couple of days till they could get to it, they reccomnded I call Freightliner Lancaster, Pa (40 miles away). Lancaster said they could deal with it on second shift after 5pm. It was 2 pm now. I started the Gennie and thought to try to put a charge on the batteries, so I would have shifting, and low and behold, I found out an RV secret (at least to me) that the engine would run fine with the Gennie on as well as shift. Drove the 40 miles with my Gennie on and got there about 3pm. The Freightliner folks finally got to my Rig about 7:30pm and replaced a bad alternator and were done by 11pm. They let me park for the night in their lot and took off at 6am.

It has beeen working fine ever since.


Alas, I have no signature, Sigh
2003 Discovery 38U
2004 Z-71 Suburban
Aventa II, and Blue Ox Base Plates
Brake Buddy



Posted By: Barnyard on 05/18/04 06:37pm

RV Fleetwood Discovery
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:6,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of Port side Rear inner tire.
Effect:Need to replace tire.
Outcome: Repaired by TA Truckstop Albuquerque, NM

Being a new RV'er, I failed to check my tire pressures as I should have, the Port side outer must have been low pressure, causing the innner to wear prematurely, after the tire wore down to the belt, the outer then started to handle the gaff wearing down to half tread as well.

Spent the night in WalMart (Saturday) and went to TA in the AM. I had TA remove the fronts and use them to replace the rears and bought two new fronts.

You live and learn, I now check my tires like a fiend every chance I get. Every morning, every fuel stop and every other chance I get.

I am even thinking of getting a tire pressure monitoring system.


Posted By: Barnyard on 05/18/04 06:54pm

RV Fleetwood Discovery
330 Cat, Allison 6Speed
Miles:10,000
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Loss of all instruments
Effect:No idea whats going on with engine, speed, fuel.
Outcome: Repaired??? by Freightliner, Lakewood, NJ

I was on a trip to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina via Lurray Caverns Va, stopped for fuel on 95 just over the border into NC, after fueling, started the engine and pulled out and then realized my fuel gauge was at E, the saw that all my gauges were pegged at zero. I knew I had a full tank of fuel, and I use a Garmin GPS which gave me a speed, so I continued on my trip and when I was going north of DC on 95, the instruments came on again, only to die again a few hundred miles later.

Brought it to Freightliner and they said that the wire plugs worked loose from the EDC, they tighten them (supposedly) and the dash was back.

Put the rig up for the winter and took it out for a trip to Fla in April, got all set (CHECKED THE TIRES) drove about 50 miles and say goodbye to the dash again. So off I go, no dash.. I got to my brothers in Florida and played with the suspect connections and viola, we have dash again. On the way home, I stop at Lazy Days, stay for a day looking (drooling) over other RV's,no problems (off course). Head home and get to just north of DC( I think this area is part of the Bermuda Triangle), and it's toodle-loo to the dash again. Back to Freightliner and once more they clean the contacts and use dielectric grease on the connectors. I picked it up today, and we shall see what we shall see. If it craps out again, I will make an appt with Freightliner, Gaffney, SC to be looked at.


Posted By: The Sand Man on 05/19/04 10:10am

Quote:

RV particulars:
Driveline: 454 V-8
Miles: 173,000
Year: 1989
Break Down Description: Snapped left steering linkage
Symptoms: Left front wheel wildly flopping left and right, will not track with right front wheel.
Effect: Bucking like a bronc, inability to steer, wildly veering any direction it wants to.
Cause: Indiana Potholes
Outcome: 2 day wait while replacement parts arrive from St. Louis.

2 weeks ago, I-44 soutbound, Troy Indiana, happened on a truckstop off-ramp.


There is no I-44 in Indiana...


Posted By: TippleUnduly on 05/19/04 12:29pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse 8.1 liter, GM 4 speed
Miles: 23000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: No ignition
Effect: No spark, no start. Checked battery connections and it started right up.
Cause: Defective ignition switch
Outcome: Replaced switch


Bill K


Posted By: TippleUnduly on 05/19/04 12:33pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse 8.1 liter w/Gm 4 speed
Miles: 21000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Vibration, shuddering, noises
Effect: Able to drive by continually adding ATF until reaching service center
Cause: Leaking ATF at emergency brake system
Outcome: Placed on lift, tightened connections, OK since


Posted By: karyn.geist@lakewoodhomes.net on 05/20/04 11:50am

We own a 2001 Southwind, 32 foot, motorhome. On 12/26/03 on our way to Florida we broke down just south of Atlanta Georgia. It was our transmission - we only had 20,000 mile on the machine. Ever try to get help the day after Christmas ?? After several phone calls, we finally contacted a dealer further south that said we would have to be towed back to Atlanta, we have a work horse chasis. Arrangements were made and 3 hours later we were at a truck reapir in the commercial district of Atlanta. The problem, they were closing early because of the holiday and no one would look at it till Monday. Ever have to spend the weeekend in a parking lot with a garbage dump behing the building and nothing around. Monday they determined that we neede a new transmission thaty would have to come from Carolina. New year's Eve it was finally fixed and our vacation was almost over. We had to pay for everything or they would not do anything. It took till March before we received reimbursement from work horse - Fleetwood would do nothing. They did pay for everything, but no one can give us back the time lost. We still work and treasure the time we have off.


Posted By: ConnieAndMike on 05/20/04 06:51pm

RV particularsRC Crown Imperial
Driveline (460, C6):
Year:91

March 00
Miles:100000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Fuel Pump
Outcomeeplaced Pump at Ford Truck Dealer in Phoenix. $800

March 00 Thats right, 1 week later
Miles:101000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Fuel Pump
Outcomeeplaced Pump at Ford Truck Dealer in Temecula. Warrantee

April 02 2 years later
Miles:106000
Symptoms:No Power under load, let foot off gas and it would pickup
Speed.
Effect:30 mph
Cause:Filter on Fuel Pump
Outcomead independent repair drop tank enough to remove pump.
Filter on pump had brown tinge. Unable to shine flashlight through mesh. Unable to buy just the filter from Ford. I cleaned it with gas and blew it with air untill it was clean. Reinstalled pump and tank. Cost $100
Run great ever since.

MIke


91 Holiday Rambler Imperial 37
F460 G-hog
Toad: 2up Toyota
Northern Illinois
Our Travels and Tips Blog


Posted By: JimReling on 05/21/04 08:05am

2003 36 ft Monaco Cayman 300 Cummings
Friday 14 2004 leaving on a 10 day trip. Got 10 miles from home and the check trans light came on and the trans started shifting up and down. Had it towed to Gibbs international to look at trans. One of the worst places I have ever been they were rude, talked to me like I was dirt. For the rest of my life I will spit when I drive by the place. They kept the RV for 4 days when I drove over to see what was going on and was told they couldn't find the problem. I arranged to have the RV towed to Cal Cummings. They are always great to deal with. They had the rig repaired in 2 hours.
Turned out to be the plug under the excelerater peddle. Gibbs ruined my vacation if I would have gone to Cummings I would have been on the road in 3 or 4 hours.


Jim & Ann and our two Corgi's Scooter & Polly
2005 Winnebago Voyage 35A
Workhorse Vortec & Allison
Honda CRV Tow Car
JimReling@sbcglobal.net


Posted By: Purerock Motorsports on 05/21/04 10:18am

1988 Pace Arrow, P30, 454 w/59k miles
Now comes the fun... sit down and enjoy the story.

Second trip out, going to Lake Havasu of all places.
About 25 miles from home driving along nice n smooth, the coach started smoking alot from behind, other cars were honking at us, so I pulled over and stopped. Looked underneath, only to find my transmission spilling out fluid everywhere. I had fluid all over my boat and everything. First I thought the the pump went out, but after having my whole rig towed to a trans shop in Lancaster CA, it turned out to be the cooler lines came loose for some reason and were leaking bigtime...I had to install a brass fitting and a short section of hi-pressure hose to fix the problem. Strange thing is both lines started leaking at the same time, for no reason. 4 quarts of fluid and 3 hours later, I am back on the road.
Next - I am not done yet. Same trip.
We get about 2 hours from Havasu, climbing up a slight grade towing my 22ft. boat. The engine suddenly loses all power, popping, banging, finally coming to a stop along the side of I-40. Outside temp. is about 101 at this time in the afternoon. This time I was really baffled. I thought the fuel pump went, or timing chain, or...After trouble shooting one thing at a time and repeatedly failing to get the engine started again, it turned out that the coil in the HEI ignition got smoked. Not sure why this happened. Well, it turns out I had every replacement part with me except that coil. Good thing we had cell phones...I called my good friend who lives in Havasu to get me a coil, and he drove 2 hours to bring me a coil. Oh yeah, we sat on the side of the road for about 4 1/2 hours by now, generator on, AC on, kid playing PS-2. Finally my friend shows up around 9:30pm with new coil and 12 pack of beer, I install the new coil, engine starts right up, I slam a beer and I am again back on the road. We finally ended up getting to our camp spot at 11:45pm that nite. I originally left for the trip at 6am in the morning (which should have been a 5 hours max. drive).
Now... 2 trips later
The coil burns out again. This time, on the famous Grapevine hill here in SoCal, again towing my boat. This time I buy another coil and it has this extra little metal "ground" pc. that goes inside the distributor cap and functions as the ground for the ignition... I didn't have this little thing in there before, not sure why it was not there. Some experienced GM guys told me that that ground terminal is needed as a ground for the whole ignition system, or the coil could (or will) short out. Make sure you have this metal ground pc. in your HEI ignition. It goes in the center of the tach and 12v terminals and the coil itself sits on top of and grounds against it via 4 screws. On your ignition harness connector that plugs into the cap, there's 3 wires. One for tach, one for 12v and the center black is for ground.
I've been on 9 more trips since all this, and have not had another problem...


Rich Schultz
PUREROCK MOTORSPORTS
2002 KTM 520sx, 2005 Yamaha WR250, 2004 Yamaha YZ85
2003 Ski Supreme Tournament Boat w/Mercruiser 350MPI
2001 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 35ft. double slideouts Ford chassis
Custom 16 x 8.5 enclosed toy hauler



Posted By: csabbar on 05/21/04 01:45pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Bounder, Chevy chassis
Miles: 35,000
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Thump,thump,thump
Effect: Stopped
Cause: Flat on rear outer dual
Outcome: All new rear tires


Carol and Morgan Sabbar
Ken and Jeff, the teenagers
1996 Bounder 34P Here it is by Bryce Canyon:
My web site: http://www.sabbarpublications.com



Posted By: tuanton on 05/25/04 12:43pm

What motorhome are you driving? Mr JimReling


THOMAS


Posted By: tuanton on 05/25/04 01:15pm

Mr. Ymi
The same problem happened to my2004 Bounder 1 month ago. I finally traded it in for a diesel MH. I swear not to buy work horse engine again.


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 05/25/04 03:10pm

Driveline: 454 Chevrolet, 3 spd AT
Make: Pace Arrow
Year: 1984 (on February-built, '84 chassis)
Symptoms: Noise like AC compressor engagement, on and off while driving.

Effect: Starters burning up (4 in 6 weeks)in 1999, and mechanics couldn't find the reason.

Cause: Chevrolet decided to replace their ignition/starter in-line solenoid with a small relay with points. Mechanics weren't aware of a switching device existing, so didn't look for it. It was mounted to the engine, curb-side front, hidden behind wires and hose bundles. In frustration and determination, I read through my Chev Motorhome Chassis Service Manual (glad I ordered it on Motorhome Magazine's recommendations years ago) and discovered the bulletin where Chevrolet decided to go back to the old (Ford type) solenoid in March of '84, 2 weeks after mine was built. The little relay's points carbon up over time thus shortening the point gap so that a bump in the road could close the ignition circuit to the starter, thus engaging it while the engine was already running, and overheating the starter's motor, burning it up. I was aware of the noise when the starter engaged on the road but thought it was an odd AC compressor sound or something, although I couldn't zero in on it 'cause it only happened while we were moving and I couldn't get under the rig to look.

Outcome: I located the relay, removed it and broke it open. Sure enough, the point on one side had carboned up so much the gap between it and the opposing point was a third of what it should have been. I could've cleaned it and put it back, but eventually it would have left me stranded again. So I replaced it with the solenoid originally used in Chev motorhome chassis', and in the process cleaned up and improved some of the wiring (soldered & sealed connections, and better bundling & routing). Ne'r a problem since.


1/2 Canadian
1984 Pace Arrow traded for
2006 Beaver Monterey
1997 Ford Explorer Limited 4X4
Flyfishing in my blood
Good Sam Life Member 1334373, 29 yrs. RVing
Family Motorcoach Member F384437, Beaver Ambassador Club, CAT Engine Owner's Club



Posted By: JimReling on 05/25/04 04:15pm

Monaco 36 ft Cayman with 300 cummings


Posted By: Jim P on 05/30/04 01:12pm

Torque converter went out. I always use engine braking to slow down when coming to a stop sign shifting from drive to second and then to low and finally using brakes. On accelerating from the stop sign I inadvertently placed transmission in neutral and then stepped on the accelerator thinking the transmission was in Drive. Needless to say the diesel engine accelerated to high speed. I dropped the transmission back into Drive without allowing the engine to drop RPMs which was when I lost the converter. Seems the torque converter wasn't able to handle the high RPM of the engine with the wheels still at a low speed. Stupid thing to do. Had to coast about 300 yards to get off a bridge and finally was able to pull over on shoulder.

4 speed Allison and 8.2 L Detroit


Posted By: waltbens on 05/30/04 01:17pm

Barnyard: Same symptoms on my '01 Journey DL with Cat 330 on a Freightliner. Instruments went bananas. First time, only the fuel gage, but it said "empty" --in the desert--scary.
Freightliner terrific about overnighting a new EDC both times to a Freightliner service center.
No charge, just inconvenience.

* This post was edited 05/30/04 01:26pm by waltbens *


Posted By: Xoffset on 05/30/04 05:17pm

Kountry Star with 300 HP ISB Cummings & 6 Speed Allison
17,500 miles
2001
Brought coach used in NC and drove back to CA in 6 days with no problems. Had coach serviced by recommended Newmar dealer, transmission service, oil & filter change (specified 6000 mile service, radiator checked and stabilizer added. Took off with bride of 45 years for our first big trip. Up to Vegas and the the canyon area. On way to Bryce had two back fires when using exhaust brake. Called Cummings in Saint George and was told probably a sensor but sounded like engine was fine, just don't use exhaust brake. Which I didn't. Looked for peak torque and governor rpm in manual and on engine and couldn't find it for gearing down specs. Heading down 95 toward Monument Valley I blew out the Turbo. 75 miles out of Blanding, no cell phone service, no people, very little traffic, no place to pull over. After 2 miles found a dirt road. Drove to Blanding and back to motorhome and met tow truck and back to Blanding where all places to eat were closed. Motorhome now in Grand Junction, CO and I'm in CA 850 miles away. Thank God for Good Sam they handled the towing great. Personally I think the back fires affected the turbo. Wife is talking about For Sale signs. Just kidding we had a great time except for 3 days.


Xoffset


Posted By: nsdiblasi on 06/01/04 06:03am

1993 Tropical
460 Ford
E40 Transmission
Would Not start
We were coming back from RV camping in NC, left Whittier NC @ 0800. No problems other than rain and hauling our two motorcycles in an open trailer in the rain (that will be corrected before we go again). Ran over normal road debris (retreads, sticks). Stop in Welcome Center in Ga, shut down the coach for rest stop. Got back in and turn the key and it would not start. All lights work everything came on but it would click but nor start. Call Sam's ERS, this is Memorial Day, someone showed within an hour. Tried to jump it off this did not help. Meanwhile my wife called the RV center where we bought the pre-owned coach and the service dept was open. She told the service mgr what had happened. He said the starter is stuck, have your husband tap it with a hammer as you try and start it, then bring it in the next and they will ck it out. So I crawled up the coach, and there was the wire from the solenoid to the starter hanging, not attached to the starter. I had my wife turn on the coach, I touched the starter, she started up and we only lost two hours. When we got home I made a permanent fix to the wire and tie wrapped everything up. Not to bad for our first breakdown, had the Gen running and made coffee while we waited.


05 KSDP 3910 330 Cummins, Spartan Chassis
Nick&Sheila Club "Same 2 member for 31 years"
Fulltiming in Jacksonville, Fl



Posted By: hairlessinmiami on 06/01/04 10:03am

that happened to me as well going through texas last year. everytime i went over a bump i lost all power. it then came back 1 of the times it stopped and did not come back. i figured it had to be something loose. I turned the key to on and fiddled with some of the wires under the dash and found the ignition wire loose. got some plyers and squeezed the connection. never had a problem since

good luck


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 06/01/04 09:24pm

I guess every once in a while someone has to jump in and remind us to try and follow Badeye's requested format when telling us and him of your experience(s). It will help him develop his composite eventually, so please check the initial entry (page 1) before entering info and give heed to the requested specifics; that way everyone is consistent and some comparable particulars have a chance to emerge when he analyzes them.


Posted By: gullbreezer on 06/01/04 10:04pm

Check with freightliner as well as Michelin. After 5000 miles at 85 psi as recommended on the chassis decal, Frtlnr sent me a recall notice saying the pressure should be 100 psi. That was about 2 months after our first blowout. Michelin no help. Frtlnr no response, except to check with coach mfr. Allegro ref to Mich. Sure is lots to keep track of... Gordon This was meant for #173, darbyjun (sp?)


Winnebago View on Sprinter 3500 chassis. No toad. Now up to two Standard Poodles who sit in the front seats when we are parked...It's alright, they both have licences.


Posted By: LuvRving on 06/07/04 11:21pm

1997 Winnebago Brave 33Q
Ford 460
7,200 miles

Transmission would not shift out of lower gears. Called Ford, they had the mh towed on flatbed truck to Ford dealership 100 miles away.
Problem: Sensor between speedometer and transmission had lost fluid.
Replaced sensor: Problem solved.
Cost to Ford: $2200...


Brooksie
'03 Winnebago Brave 34D
2 dogs and one great cat


Posted By: RodSams on 06/08/04 11:13pm

Diesel, 125k miles, 1984 blueBird with a 1993 remain CAT 3208T.
After fueling, the bus would not start. Bus finally did start, but the ignition switch was smoking from an electrical fire.
Cause: there was a bare wire near the alternator that caused a spark to jump to the top of the fuel solinoid. This caused the solinoid to burn up and the ignition switch.
Until I could get home, removed fuel solinoid and removed the center from the solinoid. This allowed the engine to start. To turn off the engine, I had to remove the fuel solinoid and push a screw driver into the hole to shut off the fuel to the engine.
I couldn't find an ignition switch and used 2 on-off switches to rig a way to start the engine.
Rod


Posted By: Allegro on 06/10/04 06:57pm

I have a 98 Freightliner chassis with a Cummins 5.9 ISB. At 91,000 miles, and about 3 mile from destination camp ground in Lancaster Co. PA, the engine dropped a valve ruining the head, injector, piston and cylinder wall. Lucky for me as Cummins was giving a 7 yr warranty so they paid the bill. Two weeks after we drove our car home am ready to drive 600 mi back and retreive the rig. They valve broke at the weld holding head to stem. Just hope I can trust the engine for another 91,000 as by that time I will be ready for a new one, if I'm still able to enjoy the RV life. Roger


Posted By: Boxer Lovers on 06/11/04 12:53pm

We had an unfortunate experience in a previous d.p. while driving through the Wyoming desert. We had a rapid change in altitude along with an eqully rapid change in air temperature and humidity, when to my suprise the "water in fuel" caution light came on. I pulled over and after a couple of minutes cool down, shut off the engine. Thank goodness a service tech had walked me through this problem before when I had purchased some bad fuel. Apparently the rapid change in air temperature and humidity produced condensation in the fuel tank which was only around half full, thus creating too much water in the fuel line.
This coach was a 5.9 Cummins on a Freighliner and you could crawl under the engine where the primary fuel filter was equpped with a small plastic plunger on the bottom of the filter that you pressed to release accumulated water from the fuel line. Its a nasty job because their is no way to keep the fuel from running down your arm, but it worked! Fired the engine back up, no warning light, drove the remaining 2,000 mile trip without a hitch.

Always, ALWAYS, keep fresh (truckstop) diesel in the tank, and when experiencing rapidly cooling, damp, weather conditions don't run the fuel down past half empty. I had fresh fuel, but more air than fuel in the tank produced condensation that caused big problems.


Dave & Robin
Extended Travelers
2012 Dodge 3500, Cummins H.O.,Club Cab
Long Bed, Laramie Long Horn
Max Tow, 4:10 rear end
2013 DRV Tradition, 385 RSS,Full Body Paint,Trail Aire Tri Glide, & Center Point air ride


Posted By: bill h on 06/12/04 09:46am

Driveline: P30
Miles:80K
Year: 84
Symptoms: Loss of power
Effect: Flooding
Cause: Crud in float valve
Outcome: Carb full of black kitty litter.

100 miles earlier, I had put in some Red Line fuel system cleaner, which was well recommended. It apparently did its job well, and loosened up a lot of crud in the fuel system. A piece of crud apparently jammed the float valve, resulting in flooding, and loss of power. When I removed the air cleaner top, the carb was completely awash with gasoline. There were puddles of gas sizzling in the pockets on top of the intake manifold. I did th usual rapping of the float area with a screwdriver handle with no effect. Slipping a hacksaw blade in the slot between the primary and secondary barrels allowed me to work the float up and down to allow the crud to pass, and the flooding stopped. HA! Success.

But the motor ran rough and unevenly.

Removing the top of the carb revealed the float bowl to be half full of what appeared to be black kitty litter, evidently charcoal from the emissions canister. I am guessing that the gasoline overflow into the canister caused some charcoal granules to float back up the vent tube due to a failed check valve in the canister. I removed the carb, disassembled it and blew it out with a couple cans of spray cleaner. All hoses going to and from the charcoal canister were plugged with available screwdriver tips and bolts to continue the trip.

I should add that my genset runs better than it ever has since I added the Red Line fuel system cleaner.

* This post was edited 06/13/04 03:20am by bill h *


Posted By: MartyAndPeg on 06/15/04 07:37pm

You can see what were driving below. We left north FL this morning, made it about 38 miles north of the GA border on I95 and the brake failure warning chime came on. Pulled off at the next exit (exit 58) and checked the emergency break switch...OK. Brake fluid OK. Wheels normal temperature. Called Workhorse, they said it could not be driven. They dispatched a tow truck, and here were are, sitting in the parking lot of a dealership called Sonnys Camp and Travel in Summerville, GA. They have been very nice so far; said they will look at our coach in the morning. They closed at 5pm, but two fellows stayed until we pulled in. They put us in front, hooked us up to electric, and said they would see us at 8am.

I'll follow up tomorrow.


Well, tomorrow came and is almost gone. They never did get to us today. So, they put us back in "our spot" and said tomorrow looks much better. They are very polite.

It is now Thursday night.
After pulling apart the emergency brake assembly, it has been diagnosed as a bad switch. It is acting very erractically now. The tech took it out for a 10 mile test drive after he pulled apart the emergency brake assembly, and for the first 8 miles it was fine. As we slowed to a stop, it went off again. This time playing with the emergency brake handle made it go away. Next we drove with the wire off the switch...no problem. Once we re-connected it, the problem came back. All other brake systems check out fine, and Workhorse is overnighting a new switch. I have to say these folks are extremely polite. Each night they make sure we have electric and plenty of water. They have also offered their dump station when we finally do get on the road. Maybe tomorrow.

OK...it is now Sunday, June 20th. Happy fathers day. We left the fine folks at Sonnys on Friday afternoon. We drove about 120 miles with no issues. Stayed two nights at South of the Border on I95, then headed out this morning. Got about 140 miles and the brake light/alarm went off again. Touched the emergency brake pedal...stopped. 10 minutes later, back on. Touched pedal, stopped. Eventually even moving the pedal did not help. Drove to a park in Skippers, VA and called Workhorse. They will see where we can get in tomorrow. So, here we sit...and we thought we had it fixed.

Ok, it is now Tuesday night. Workhorse sent us to a truck repair facility (a Workhorse sponsored repair facility) in Rocky Mount, NC. It was 60 miles the wrong direction, and instead of being towed (Workhorse really wanted to tow us) we drove....with the chime going off all the time. I did not know I could have silenced it by pressing the trip button. Anyway, two days at the repair facility and it could not be diagnosed. We did find out that if it was truly a brake failure, we would not only get the light, but also a buzzer (not a chime) and a dash message. This is telling us that the parking brake is still applied...it is not. We also know the emergency brake swith works because when it is disengaged, the slides/jacks will not operate. We simply have an errant alarm. It has been determined it is safe to drive, we can silence the alarm, and now have an appointment at a Workhorse repair facility in Central Square, NY on Monday, June 28th. Hopefully I can post a solution then.

Oh, and the kicker....we stopped for fuel just past the NC/VA line, applied the brake, shut off engine, filled up, started engine, released brake...light is now off. Don't you hate intermittent problems?

Well, it is now 7/1/2004. We had the problem come back as we hit WV, and had it all the way to Clay, NY. Well, the light was on but we now know how to silence the chime. We had an appointment in Central Square, NY for Monday, June 28th. As luck would have it, when we went to leave for our appointment, we released the brake, and all is fine. We even drove it an extra 20 miles (took the long way to the repair shop) only it would not fail. They looked at it for about two hours, but could not find a thing. They are going to order pressure switches, but unless it happens again (I'm sure it will, only not whiles we are in this area...with my luck anyway) there is not much they can do. There are no codes from the computer. So, unless it happens while we take the coach to the dump station every two weeks (until we leave July 19th), we will just have to wait and see. Workhorse is still aware of it, and has been VERY cooperative.


Marty and Peg

* This post was last edited 07/01/04 07:36pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: Zaefire on 06/19/04 04:03pm

1988 Suncrest 32.' (no longer made)

We bought the RV in a hurry as we had a family emergency back east and had just sold our house.
The previous owner was so darned nice and the RV has features that were ahead of their time. So we bought it.
He told us that there are 2 little switches 'right here on the dash' and this is how to use them: "When you are going up a steep hill, if you start bogging down, flip this one to switch over to the auxiliary fuel tank which has a shorter fuel line. If that doesn't work, here is another switch..flip it to turn on the electric fuel pump. That pump is located under the steps. Works every time." And sitting in his yard, he showed my husband how it would work.
Well we were in the Valley in California; had to bring the RV on a winding narrow road up a mountain to where we were staying.
So we hit the first hill, the engine bogged down, my husband hit the first switch, nothing...hit the second switch and the engine stalled totally and wouldn't start again.
It was 8 at night, 2 lane road and some California Forestry Dept. firefighters stopped near us and diverted traffic around us. Then the Highway Patrol came and called a tow truck. We asked if anyone could just push us over to the other side of the road to a big pull off so we could decide what to do. The CHP did that.
We called our son and he came to where we were (a few hours had passed) and he said maybe using those switches didn't work as the guy said, maybe doing the '2 switch thing' had caused a vapor lock in the 108* heat and it would now start. It did. We made it to our son's house safely.
What we learned when the guys checked out the motor home was that the engine uses a mechanical gas pump which is on the engine in front. The auxiliary gas tank is actually under the bed in the rear of the coach further away than the main tank, and there is no fuel pump under the steps. That is where the solenoid for the switch from one tank to the other is placed.
The electric pump is in the back as well and was dead and had been for awhile, and is hooked to the main tank anyway. The auxiliary tank is used only for the generator. So when he used the second switch nothing happened and the engine stalled.

After the electric fuel pump was replaced, we had no problem going up hills, as using it boosts the gas flow when needed. We keep an extra pump 'just in case.' The guys also replaced the original parts and fluids, belts and hoses etc.

There were so many inconsistencies in what that guy told us, we realized later he didn't know much about the RV at all. And we knew less at the time. We know much more now and it is all written down now as well.

To end the story on a good note, we have lived in the RV for nearly a year, we have put 12,000 miles on it. The coach is set up well and has the features we like so we are happy with it.


Posted By: Zaefire on 06/19/04 05:00pm

RV particulars: Class A Suncrest (no longer manufactured) Driveline (Engine, Transmission):n/a
Miles:n/a
Year:1988
Break Down Descriptioneaded north from San Diego at beginning of mountain pass. Wind blowing hard, gusting at 60MPH Symptoms: First heard a flapping sound like the awning had broken loose. Pulled over when we could get off highway. Nearly Christmas.

Effect: Roof on driver's side lifted by the wind gusts, ripped up as far back as bathroom, destroying trim at top of shower and giving me and husband more grey hair. Got to San Bernardino where CamperWorld told us they don't do insurance work. A small RV repair shop owner told us the following:
Cause: Suncrest known to have this problem. Later after removing the strip which covers the screws it was revealed that only one of each 4-5 screws was actually in place. If you own a Suncrest, you might want to check this.
Outcome: Couldn't have it fixed before Xmas.. so husband put 7 screws in a line neatly into top part of roof overhang to hold it down (it is a 1988..who will notice a few extra screws). Caulked excessively. When we got to destination and removed strip, husband put a screw in every hole where Suncrest had not. Caulked everywhere needed and some places not needed. Removed strip on passenger side, found same lack of screws...added screws where needed, and for good measure put 7 in a line above in roof overhang to match those on opposite side.
6 Mo later, have to recaulk occasionally and shower top trim under skylight is now strips of white duct tape till I find a way to replace the ripped up trim. Want to own stock in caulk and duct tape companies.

Addendum: Wind is a bummer in an RV anyway. If you hit high gusts, park it. Hopefully facing into the wind or tail into the wind. Where we had our incident, there were cars and trucks off the road and a truck container blown off on one lane.


Posted By: chloesmom on 06/20/04 07:25am

RV particulars:
Driveline HR Rambler Endeavor DP
Miles: 11K
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Flat tire (blowout)
Effect: Stranded 4 hours
Cause: Hit unmarked construction in Virginia
Outcome: $$$ for new tire





Posted By: Allegro on 06/25/04 05:19am

I have a 1998 Allegro Bus with 5.9 Cummins ISB and at 92,000 miles a valve broke and had to replace the head, bore cylinder to 1st oversize, and install new piston, injector, and turbo as well as head. Good thing was Cummins warrantted engine for 7 years or 150,000 miles. Bad thing was I paid for oil, antifreeze and freight on new head. They had to ship from fractory as their distribution point did note have it. Oh well, anyway I saved about $4000.00

Cause: valve head broke off stem, probably just fatigue as weld broke. Happened about 3 miles from our campground in Lanacaster Pa. We stayed with a cousin, completed our trip and drove our toad home. Three weeks later picked up MH. Run like a kitten coming the 600 mile home. Hope it does so for another 92,000 miles.


Posted By: wa0mqe on 06/26/04 03:34pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (8.1 Vortec, 4L80E GM 4-speed Auto):
Miles: 18,500
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: Alternator putting out 15.5 volts (to high)
Symptoms:
Effect: Not sure but could boil batteries, chassis & house
Cause: Appeared to be alternator
Outcome: Replaced alternator and ignition switch

Warrantied the alternator, but the service shop also found a problem with burnt connectors on ignition switch. Said this could have caused the alternator to put out more voltage due to sensing circuit in alternator thinking it needed more.


Bob Bowers
2006 Monaco Camelot PDQ 400ISL Cummins
Colorado Springs, CO



Posted By: jimsan on 06/27/04 10:33pm

RV: 1999 Georgie Boy Cruise Master w/21000 miles. GM 454 ci engine
Traveling east on I-40 just west of Albuquerque when I lost so much power I couldn't climb the hill from the Rio Puerco. Towed to an rv park cg on Sunday and Monday morning I limped into Alb to see if I could get it fixed.

Turned out to be a badly plugged fuel filter that made the engine hot (this did not show on the temp gauge) and it destroyed the guts of both cat coverters. All the cat innards flowed downstream to the muffler and plugged it completely. If anyone runs into this large loss of power, recommend you have a mechanic shop put flow meter on the hard points to see if it has happened to you.

Mechanic said he'd been doing work on cars for 31 years and never ran across this.


Posted By: au_ee on 06/28/04 12:27pm

We had two breakdowns when we had our Winnebago Brave. Unfortunately they both occurred on the same trip. The first was a transmission transducer that went out, the other was a short in the electrical harness. We had to get a tow on the second one. I asked the tow truck driver what his experience was in towing motorhomes. He said his experience was that the vast majority of tows involved gassers. I don't know if the newer units have improved since the 90's but we do seem to notice more gas MHs on the side of the road than DPs.


Steve & Beth
2002 F250 Lariet Crewcab PSD 4x2
Non-towing: 20 mpg Towing: 14.5 mpg
1996 Sunnybrook 27RKF
Garmin Streetpilot 2610
Our Home Page




Posted By: george parks sr. on 06/28/04 02:47pm

1999 DISCOVERY 5.9 CUMMINS 275HP PROBLEM; Cracked block. 22000 miles Replaced with no cost to me, but 2 weeks in a hotel in San Antonio. Cause stated Flaw in the casting. George Parks


Posted By: argie71 on 06/28/04 09:55pm

Hi All:

A question about a problem I am having with my Onan Generator in my '99 32Y Southwind.

Generator starts on its own - realize it is probably a short somewhere as the starter keeps running. Any thoughts or ideas about whwre to start.

argie71 (Ron)

Ron & Yvonne, Ringo (the cat) and Genji (the pug)
'99 32Y Southwind - Ford F53 w V10


Posted By: underwe on 06/29/04 08:53pm

The following is painful to recount even now, but this is an important topic.
RV Particulars: 2002 Itasca Horizon CAT 330 Allison Tran 6 speed
Mileage: 37,600
Breakdown Description: Traveling South on I-25 rolling in Trinidad, Co about to go over Raton Pass. Lossing power
Symptoms: RPM needle is irratic and I am losing power, managed to make into a WalMart parking lot. Checked tran fluid level is was good.
Effect: No power, could not get over 35/40 mph. Called Allison. I was instructed, if I can, drive to Stewart/Stevenson in Pueblo, Co. (80 miles away). Service manager will be there to meet us. It was Sunday aftenoon.
Cause: Tran wiring harness had detached from the frame and landed on the exhaust manifold.
Outcome: with wiring harness repaired and properly attached, all's well.
Addendum: that was the longest drive of my life from Trinidad to Pueblo.
Second, it took several hours for the tech to find the problem. Discussed with Winnebago, they were not aware of this ever happening before. On the forum, I read where someone reported that fully extended jacks can cause problems with wiring detaching. I did very much appreciate the good service at Stewart/Stevenson and that Allison paid the bill.


2002 Itasca Horizon 36' DP CAT 330
3000MH Allison Tran Double slide
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Blue Ox


Posted By: underwe on 07/01/04 06:49am

Hello Badeye:
Thanks for starting this thread. I was a little late in getting into this, but cannot see where you have reported a compilation of your
database on this topic.
Can you give me an update on your progress.

Again Thank you for this service to the RV public,
Bill


Posted By: ppjeep on 07/05/04 09:01pm

99 Discovery
ISB 5.9 Cummins w/Banks
Allison 3060
Freightliner Chassis

Problem: No air pressure
We were getting ready to leave the 04 GARVR on Friday morning, trying to beat the crowd (ha ha) and much to my surprise the coach wouldn't build any pressure. I checked the obvious stuff that I could and couldn,t find anything. Called Freightliner and they connected me with the closest service center which couldn't get to me untill the next afternoon, but did give me the phone number of someone else in the area who may be able to help. So I called and they sent a technician out that afternoon. He changed the governor and still no air. Following the system the next item was the air drier, had air going in but not out. He bypassed the drier to get me going and I continued home where I removed the drier and installed a filter kit. Seems to be fine now.


Marvin and Teresa
99 Discovery 34Q


Posted By: TWOSTROKE on 07/06/04 11:03am

Coachmen 1998 34' with Chev 454.
3000 miles
Problem Cheverolet Built it!

Since we have been motorhoming quite a while now we have several breakdowns but this series is probably the worst and ended up with us really happy in a new Holiday Rambler Endeavor DP. First major trip on a 1998 Coachmen 34' 454 to Gainsville, FL no problems but on the way home as we go thru Mobile, AL, the exhaust gets very loud. Wife is driving and we decuss it, no problem as 454 always have problems with exhaust manifolds, we will drive on home. About 130 more miles in Magee, Mississippi she says we are smoking very badly. We stop in a parking lot, and oil leaking from the engine area and find the oil cooler line melted and oil running out. Find a mechanic (on Sunday to come and help) son looks at front tires and says what are these shiny things around the tires, both of the steel radial were showing thru all the way around the tires, Coachmen had forgotten to realign the front end after building the coach. The mechanics go to find parts and get a plug to put in the block to plug up the oil cooler line and discover the motor moves as the left engine mount bolt does not go thru the mount, the mount sits on the bolt that how the oil cooler line melted as the engine would torque up and the exhaust would hit the oil cooler line. Fix that too, change the worst looking tire, pay them $75 (More than they asked) and drive home.

This coach had everything you can think of break including the rear hitch, exhaust, ecu, and so much more. Chevy spent over $20,000 trying to fix it and fianlly bought it back. We had 3' yellow lemons plastered all over it we were so disgusted with it. While we were waiting for them to decide to buy it back we bought the Holiday DP. It was the best move we could have made, loved that coach even though we did have a break down on it at at about 80,000 miles when one of the calipers stuck and wore the rotor half way thru. We got it towed home 150 miles and got it fixed with new rotor and caliper for $300. It was on a freighliner chassis.

1998 Holiday Endeavor DP Cummins 230HP Allison 6 speed
80,000 miles


2000 Four Winds Funmover with V10 Ford
40,000 miles
Transmission

The next breakdown happened almost 2000 miles from home in California. We have a Four Winds funmover with Ford V10. We had about 40,000 miles on it. Pulled to a stop and when we went to go, it would not move. The engine ran fine. We let it cool off for about an hour and it worked. We did this on and off for a week while we were in Ca once it was rolling, everything worked fine. We got home and had our trans guy look at it. Ford had left two bolts inside loose and let fluid seep through. Out of warranty we paid $2500 to rebuild whole transmission. It has 100,000 miles on it now and runs great.

We had some of those wonderful Firestone tires on the Fun Mower, the first one blew at 70 mph in Ohio and about scared the wits out of us. After the first one and until we got Michelin tires on it, we got where we could change a tire in 15 minutes since we have an air compressor on board. Get spare out, jack it up, use air wrench off and on, load junk tire and gone. When done with trip, take tire for free warranty replacement. Finally got tired of it, put new tires on it and then Firestone recalled the tires. Glad for the Michelins.

1997 Eldorado Class C 31' Ford V10
114,000 miles

Last breakdown was about 6 weeks ago in 31' Eldorado class c motorhome. We were headed out of town to a race about 300 miles away and had gone only 40 miles when loud bang in the rear. Found two rear tires on right side blown out. Tools would not fit the lugs, called my service manager at our store and he bought tools and we put one spare on and limped it back home. Used another vehicle and replaced the tires the next week as well as repair the wheel well damage. It did not have Michelins on it either but we were only going to use this one for a while til we bought a new one, howerer one son used it to go to Norwalk, Ohio a week ago. He lost two tires on it and it now has two new Michelins.

Pictured below are the Funmover and the Eldorado as we still have them.

Many more I am sure but these are the ones that come readily to mind.

* This post was edited 07/06/04 09:42pm by TWOSTROKE *


The Adam Family

2004 Gulf Stream Crescendo 330 Cat/Allison
1997 Eldorado Class C Ford V-10
2000 Custom Hauler - Fun Mover Ford V-10
Dodge Dually w/Cummins 5 Speed
2005 Yamaha FJR1300 & FZS600
Having fun along life's highway




Posted By: ConnieAndMike on 07/06/04 08:41pm

91 HRC With 460 Ford 550 chasis, Fuel Injection.
Symptom: Loss of power from 65mph to about 40mph on I80 in Nebraska.

Doesn't get much flatter that that. Temp in the low 70's
We had been crusing for about 2.5 hrs in the afternoon. Had about 1/2 tank of gas when I noticed the loss of power. Thought I might be on a grade or something. Then a small, bearly detectable engine miss/stumble.

I thought for sure it was another intank fuel pump/filter problem.
We were about 20mi east of NorthPlatte and pulled off and into a dinky old Sinclair Station. I had read where the gas in the tank may get hot and cause a problem. I took on 20 gallons. We got onto Hwy 30, and headed into town. I eased it on up to 50-60mph and no problem.

We stopped in town at another gas station and took on another 28 gallons to fill the tank, making a total of 48. I have an 80 gallon tank, so I still had 32 gallons onboard when I had the problem. Seems like a lot of gas to me.

We cruised at 55-65mph for another 2000 miles out to Denver and back without any other problems. I always made sure I got gas at about 250mi or so taking on 40-45 gallons.

So was it Hot or Dirty Gas, vapor lock or the dreaded pump???
If you notice the problem, pull off and get some gas to cool it off.
It may help.

Mike


Posted By: diomar on 07/10/04 10:02am

Model:'93 Winnebago Adventurer(32RQ)
Chassis30
Engine:454(trottle body fuel injection)
Transmission:4L80E
Location of failure: 4 miles N of Tampa, FL, SB on I-75
Failure: Engine quit running, cranks, but won't start.
Cause: Worn ECM harnesss at shroud(bent sheetmetal) covering air conditioning compressor pulley.

It was a dark and stormy night...
Cruising along at 55mph, decided to push on to St. Pete Bch...instead of stopping at our usual 5pm.
Engine quit.
Slipped into neutral and tried to start...just cranked.
Pulled over to shoulder and tried to start again.
Called FHP and gave them lat/lon of our location.
FHP unable to locate anything without Highway Number and Mile Marker.
1/2 hour later very kind Officer pulled up and offered to contact towing service.
1/2 hour later towing service showed up and offered to tow to either "unknown" RV shop or LazyDays RV shop.
Paid towing service $180 for towing to LazyDays facility.
NOTE: Make sure wrecker driver knows about perils of AutoPark and unsprung driveshafts.
NOTE: Make sure the the wrecker either replaces the universal bearing caps on their respective ends and tapes them in place, or count on having the universal replaced before you head on the road again.
Five days waiting for LazyDays to get an open bay to look at it.
Four hours once it was in the bay.
Two hour while the tech dropped the fuel tank because he was unable to hear the fuel pump running. He claimed that the fuel pump would need to be replaced. Pump and gauge sending unit would be replaced together. I asked what blown fuseshe'd found. He went back to check fueses and found the ECM BAT fues has blown. We also found that the fuse should've been a 10A and someone(previous owners) has replaced it with a 20A...(I hate when people lie...Nope, never had a problem with it...*sigh*).

LazyDays tech says the problem was a pinched wire near the fuel tank. Problem was fixed, tech said the 20A fuse was ok in place of the 10A that the mfgr spec'd.

Paid LazyDays +$300. and $50 tip to tech for being so good at 'finding the problem so quickly'.

Back on the road...

Transmission would occasionally feel like it was placed into Neutral wile driving down the road. Problem would occur when hitting a pothole/bump on the road.

Continued driving...

1000-2000 miles later...

Engine stalls somewhere in N. Texas. Coast to side of road. Open hood, check ECM BAT fuse, replace fuse, back on the road.

30' later...

Engine stalls, still somewhere in N. Texas. Vector to side of road, open hood, replace ECM BAT fuse that promptly burns out...

replace fuse...
replace 3rd fuse...
replace with 25A fuse...
replace with 30A fuse...
I'm either gonna clear the short, or somethin's gonna send up a smoke signal to show me where the short is...
Engine starts!
Replace 30A fuse with 10A fuse and head back on the road...cool, pale and diaphoretic...no heart attack, yet.

back in Colorado.

Scattered rock from passing truck blows out larger driver-side fixed-window.
Pull into home depot in ColoSprings to replace blown window with lexan. (easy to cut and tape in place).
Wife vacumms up glass frags and feeds infant...
Did I mention the amount of stress that driving with a 4 month old infant can bring? on top of the problems the coach was having?

Wait for second MI(heart attack).

Back on the road. Home at last.

Out to california and back, no blown fuses, but the tranny would occasionally do the neutral-shift thing.

Back home. Strange vibration at 45 mph. Went to tire dealer and they agreed that the tires may be the cause. They replaced the tires. Handkooks with Michelins. Ride is improved 100%.

Heading home and ECM BAT fuse blows.
15 fuses later(10A-30A) and having to drive the coach in reverse the last +mile home(did I mention that this is a 32')...without a backup guide.

Sitting in driveway and waiting(the MI thing again, stress level as an all time high).

Engine still running, I removed the engine cover and gave the thickest bundle of wires a 'wiggle'...THE LAST BLOW ECM BAT FUSE!!!

Hope all your miles are as enjoyable as ours have been.

I had my first MI on April 1, 2003.
I had my first child on May 22, 2003.
I bought my first class A on June 1, 2003.
I only regret not having had my child or buying a motorhome, sooner...
I could've waited until my deathbed to have the MI and the coach problems...heh.

--joe


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 07/10/04 02:36pm

Gawd, I love this thread. Thanks, Badeye. Thanks Joe.
Joe, before your last MI, 50 years from now, ya gotta write a book!


Posted By: bobnkay on 07/10/04 09:52pm

Have a new 37' 05 Expedition w/Cummins 300 & Allison 6-spd on a Freightliner CC. No problems so far, but all of these postings are outstanding. I can see where I will need a service plan of some kind. Cost will do me in and I guess I had better learn some maint things on this.


[i]Bob & Kay & Joy the Dog (Retired Military/State/Federal) 37"U" 2005 Expedition Demco SS Kar Kaddy 07 1500 Crew Cab 4X4

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: jusda6ofus on 07/14/04 06:14am

Have a 1994 Winnebago Adventurer with Ford 460 Chasis. 70 miles into our trip to NY the fuel pump went out. I know the MH is 10 years old, but it only has 22,000 miles on it. Had to drop the 75 gallon fuel tank to get to the fuel pump. Other than that:4,000 miles and no problems.


Posted By: BIANCI on 07/14/04 09:41pm

RV particulars: 1999 36 ft. Holiday Rambler Endeavor Ford Triton V-10
 
   Miles: 18K
   Date of failure:   August 2003   
Break Down Description: Engine would not start after stopping for fuel. Temp 104
   Symptoms: Engine cranked, but would not run
   Effect:    Stranded on a Saturday evening in Bismarck, ND
   Cause:      Fuel pump failure
   Outcome:   Pushed rig away from fuel pumps to parking area. Spent the night in the parking lot and rented a car the next morning to drive the last 200 miles home. Called the dealer the following Monday and told him where to find the rig. Traded for a diesel pusher. MUCH BETTER!


Posted By: rootietn on 07/15/04 03:35pm

Just back from trip to Fontana, CA from TN & have a little info. to share..
Driveline: Renegade 450hp mercedes benz, automatic tran.
Miles: 27500
Year: 2003
Breakdown: All 6 six tires on custom tow trailer blew out.
Onan generator failed to code "36" if much of a demand was placed on it.
Freightliner altenator on cab engine failed.
Needless to say all the sight seeing we done on the week of 4th of July was at the service centers for Freightliner, Onan, and the small middle of nowhere shop that in a burst of blinding luck last Sunday had the U-Bolts for the center axle that we had no idea was in danger of catastophic failure until the trailer brakes quit working on an exit ramp!
He had the exact items needed & the pricing for repair was great!

We are now in the process of trying to get with Renegade to replace wheels & tires to proper size etc. They tell us so far that for $3500 or so they will be glad to change this error in design.
I think maybe if they knew of this danger it would benefit them to help us out better than that!


DJ


Posted By: binary1 on 07/17/04 09:38pm

RV particulars:40 ft 2001 NewMar Dutch Star on Freightliner Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 3126B engine Allison MH 3000
Miles: New to 40000
Year: 2001

Symptoms: Driving to Alaska on maiden voyage and got to Bismark ND. (about 2000 mi. on OD) and speedometer, then air, then tach. quit or go crazy.
Effect:
Cause: Needed to replaced ECU (Electronic Control Unit)

Outcome: Fixed problem although problem recurred again in Black Hills following year. Same resolution.

No further problems and now have 45,000 miles (prox).

I mention this because this is apparently a regular occurance with Freightliner/Cat. Not sure whose fault, but I sure wouldn't doubt that placing the ECU next to the engine and its heat might not be partly to blame.

Anyway, any other details of this sort would be greatly appreciated. As well as dates. This thread might help improve the breed.

Thanks to you Badeye and all who contribute

Bob Manchik


HAPPY TRAILS TO YOU 'ALL

BOB

JMNSHO and as always your mileage may vary, and this free advice is worth what you are paying for it.

"We don't camp. We drive a motel room on wheels" --My Wife

Binary1@hotmail.com



Posted By: jcamp on 07/18/04 08:32am

Broke a crankshaft in a a 2004 Newmar Dutchstar with 2,100 miles on it. Go figure. The only thing that irks me is that Newmar or the Dealer we purchased from is any help and Catapillar only wants to replace the crankshaft and send us on our way.


Jim
- Beautiful wife of 42 yrs
- 04 DSDP - Quad slide
- (Cat 330)(FL Chasis)(Allison Tranny 6)
- 98 Chevy Silverado (cause I like it)



Posted By: turbo6gto on 07/20/04 08:08pm

Workhorse W20 2003, motor stalled at dump station when I tilted steering wheel forward.Lost all power to dash,would not crank.Ign 1, 40 amp fuse blown under hood.I put steering wheel in middle position,put a 30 amp fuse in,got it to start.Took steering collum apart when I got home, found wire rubbed thru on factory bracket.This bracket is gonna cause a lot of headaches for people,instead of being rounded,it has a sharp 90 outside corner that the ignition switch wires rub up and down every time you adjust wheel.I took a file to it and rounded it off.My advice is to have this checked.


John and LaVerne, 2003 Damon Challenger 348 workhorse, and Sophie,our mini- schnauzer,2001 saturn LS200 toad,falcon2,and a brakebuddy.


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 07/21/04 04:29pm

Did you notify Workhorse? Yours could be one of the first of thousands yet to come, and to prevent those disgruntled, inconvenienced-on-the-road customers, it would be in Workhorse's interest to recall the W20's for modification of that bracket.


Posted By: xctraveler on 07/21/04 05:36pm

turbo6gto,

Our two breakdowns were very similar, loss of all power during a stop when the steering wheel was moved to top position. This was on our former Damon Daybreak on the Workhorse P32 chassis. they paid for tow and repair both times. Blew more than a fuse, took out the ignition switch. First time it took three days to diagnose. Second time, I told the WH Tech to review the reords on the unit, they spent very little time diagnosing the problem.

I now have a W22 chassis, I hope they have resolved this issue.


Posted By: denny4850 on 07/22/04 06:31am

We just purchased our first class A diesel pusher. After about 5k in unexpected repairs, I think we've almost got it ready to roll. From exhaust manifold leaks to a turbo that was just barely attached, it has been a real interesting process. We're still working through some lingering electrical challenges. A couple of questions:
1. Does anyone have any advice about steam cleaning their engine compartment? Ours has accumulated a lot of soot because of the exhaust leak, but the mechanics advised against it, fearing damage to the alternator.
2. Our bed directly over the engine is too hot to lay on after a few hours on the road. Is this common or is there some kind of additional insulation we should be buying to keep cool in the sack?
Thanks!
Denny


Denny
2000 40' Western RV Alpine 350hp Cummins D/P
2004 Honda CRV EX toad


Posted By: Searchersgetaway on 07/22/04 02:45pm

Badeye, Great idea.

Coachman Mirada 300Q
Ford 460hp 4speed AT
42,000 miles

First, last year right side exhaust manafold had to replace (going again)


This week pulling into campground on Grand Island, Ny. Came out of office RV would not move, looked under; sure enough fluid leaking out. Made it to campsite. Called Goodsam ERS (great service) Transmission burned up due to rapid fluid loss, something rubbed a hole in the convertor. Rebuilt Trans. new convertor. $5K later we are back in Toledo Oh safe. We received great service from ERS, Enterprise Rent-a-Car and AAmco Transmissions

Searcher

Searchersgetaway


Posted By: RKP on 07/22/04 08:14pm

denny,

I don't really know about steaming the engine in a MH, but I do know that when my son and I have taken his truck(18 wheeler) in to be washed, they do the engine as well as all the frame etc they can reach. As far as I know, he has not had any trouble with the washing. I think it would be prudent to avoid any direct spray or as much indirect spray as possible on any obvious electrical components as well as not using an extremely high pressure. I guess its using a little common sense which makes the difference. Good luck with youor problems-when you get it all sorted out and up to speed, it is really worth it.

I had a 97 Dynasty before the Beaver, and that was one of the things I noticed. The bed was right over the engine and was not insulated worth a darn. Never did fix it, just tried to stop early to let it all cool down. There's an awful lot of metal down there and it's at a pretty good temp. Wait and let it cool before you go to bed. When you're doing this, you're not in a hurry- at least I'm not.

RKP


RKP

Geezerhood is wonderful

2003 Beaver Contessa
One wife
Four cats
Too many horses
A good attitude and ready to go


Posted By: Boad on 07/26/04 06:39pm

Valve stem extenders with rubber stems caused two blowouts on the inside dual rear wheels on Interstates in Iowa. Fortunatley, no one was hurt in either situation although I had to buy two new tires in Clear Lake, Iowa.

The answer is metal stems. The rubber ones with the valve extenders were the culprit. Stupid me, I never checked the extenders close enough to realize the stems were rubber. The worst part, the dealer that installed the valve extenders assured me the stems were metal.

Maybe I'm the one who ought to go by Badeye!


Boad


Posted By: APR1967 on 07/27/04 12:19pm

I have a friend who has a renegade trailer and Truck (RV). On a recent trip the toung broke off the trailer and it careened off the road.

Renegade has been disinterested in fixing it, or admiting that it is a design flaw.

If you are interested in comparing war stories and possible legal action I can give you his email.


Organ donors save lives. One saved mine.


Posted By: tuanton on 07/27/04 05:27pm

Workhorse 8.1 L. Allison transmission
448 miles
Year 2004
After driving 300 miles on mountain roads of Yosemite, engine suddenly lost power, check engine light on, and came to a stop. Coach limping downhill to campground. Unable to restart after dumping. Towed to Fresno Paul Everts service dept after one night staying at dump station.
Cause: defective tachometer module and injection pump malfunction.
It took 10 days to fix and parts ordered.
Outcome: Traded in this coach for a new DP.


Posted By: Suljer on 07/27/04 09:38pm

Can you tell me how much of the $5K Goodsam paid and how much was out of your pocket? Also, can you tell me if you had any special coverage with Goodsam?


Posted By: Eric Elliott on 08/01/04 06:34pm

To some extent, this effort duplicates information available from RV.org. Your effort is good & we could well use a Consumer Reports type database for RV performance & reliability. If we could buy such information from WallyWorld for $8, the RV industry would have to improve rapidly.
RV.org has well served me in selection of a safe reliable motorhome for fulltime use. The price of access to their database was well spent.
Sadly, most people do not want to study enough to make an informed purchase.


Passengers - 3 siamese, Sade, Abby & Emily
Crew - Eric & Terry
2005 Country Coach Inspire 330 Genoa.
2000 Silverado LT K2500 toad


Posted By: Rapid Ray on 08/02/04 09:27pm

1990 Southwind 27'
bought used in 1999 with 15K miles
current miles 58K
454 Chev
1. Near Pedelton Or., blown outside rear tire- looked good but old, live and learn--Replaced all tires. ('99)
2. On 60 frway in Diamond Bar Ca., lost power steering and brakes, heat gauge went up.-- Fan belt broke and took another one with it, these were brand new, installed 2 days b4 in commerical shop. ('00)
3.At home on the street, wouldn't start, no power to starter, power relay in electrical cabinet failed 2 make contact--replaced relay. ('01).
4. Dallas Tx. check engine lite came on and stays on, made Chevy dealer in Longview Tx, great service-- replace Oxy sensor in exhaust. ('01)
5.Bringinham Ga., started morning drive with lack of power at high end or when trying to pass. Trouble lite would come and go off. 1st truck shop in La. couldn't find the problem with smog equipment check, no charge, tried another in Tyler Tx., to busy, no room in chevy dealer in Athens Tx., made sisters in Dallas. One chevy dealer does RV's in Dallas and they found a fuel filter blocked--replaced fuel filter and charge for scope usage. ('02)
6. Going down hill into Albuegerque Nm.,40 frway, Engine quits running. Determined no gas through throttle body-- Blown fues but why not determined, running fine since. ('03)

Hope this adds data for your study.


Posted By: APR1967 on 08/03/04 07:19am

8/1/04

State Road 54 near Land-o-Lakes Florida.

Just picked up RV (1990 Fleetwood Pace Arrow, 454TBI, 30') and after 10 miles I noticed the voltage drop on the voltmeter. Shredded alternator belt (a single wide-flat belt, is it still called a serpentine belt?) Pulled into DAP, bought belt, and la volia.

Spare belt carried now also .

Damn that engine compartment gets hot!


Posted By: ScottnSherrie on 08/03/04 12:37pm

RV particulars: 34 foot Gulfstream
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):460 Ford, 4 spd auto, John Deere chassis
Miles:~80,000
Year:1988

Break Down Description: On maiden voyage home, after paying Perry, FL Ford dealership over $2K to get her running, broken power steering belt.
Symptoms:Loud pop under engine and immediate lose of power steering. I had heard squealing prior to this but did thought this was just 'how it sounded' since this was maiden voyage. I probably should have known better.
Effect:Very difficult to turn MH
Causeower steering pump belt was loose and wore through
Outcome: Broke down at a good place and was able to get MH into a truck stop off a 'country road' exit 1/2 mile up I-75. Trail vehicle used to shuttle the 1 mile back to the 'city' exit and get parts and tools from Walmart and auto store. Back on road in 3-4 hours. Made it home before dark.


88 Gulf Stream 34' Sun Vista, Ford 460, Edelbrock Perfomer carb, Thorley headers
Ford F-250 crew cab 4X4, 6.0 turbo diesel
complete roof rebuild
daughter 19, son 16
US Army Desert Storm vets (both of us)
left: The Ol' Gal right: DW with White Lightnin'



Posted By: FOXFLYER on 08/05/04 11:26pm

"03 Aerbus 3550 triton V 10, 10000 mi. On a trip from the Oregon coast last month the vehicle started losing power particilarly on hills and the problem increased to the point that we were unable to maintain any speed beyond a walk, we made it to a clear area on the shoulder and called Good Sam ERS , we received the correct help fast and was towed, including a 14' trailer to the ford dealer in Grants Pass , where we spent the night at their new facility, they even offered to let us plug in to external power The problem acted similar to a plugged fuel filter or perhaps a defective catalytic converter.

The problem was,a bee made its way through a small hole in the air filter and shorted across the mass air sensor which aparently told the computer that the engine was too rich and so it reduced the fuel flow to a near idle condition, the sensor was cleaned and the filter replaced and we were on our way. agreat job by Grants Pass towing, Good Sam ERS and Mock Ford.


Posted By: SpaceCowboy on 08/07/04 09:26am

454 four barrel, three speed auto tranny with gear splitter
47,000 miles
1987 34 foot Bounder
Front Passenger sid brake locked up. There had been a intermitant tight pulling to that side for about three thousand miles. When a mechanic had inspected it, he believed it was a low tire and a low air assist bag.

Effect: About a thousand miles into a vacation trip, when we came to a stop, the caliper locked up. Once it cooled, the brakes worked again, allowing us to limp into Wendover, Utah.

Cause: After replacing the caliper, the brake continued to lock up. Following the brake line up, we discovered that the rubber hose to the caliper was cut off. After some inspection, the head mechanic concluded that water had gotten between the metal clamp (that holds the line about halfway down) and the rubber hose, that rust had unsued, and between the swelling of the rust and the hardening of the rubber, the hose was crushed. Since the repairs were rushed and temporary, upon getting home to California, I went to the parts store for new lines for both sides and to pull the rotor and have it determined whether it needs to be replaced or just turned. The counterman told me he'd seen this before, and that he had concluded that someone at the MH factory had, for many years, done something with the brakes in the process of 'building the house on top of the frame', where they ended up crushing that metal clamp, problems showing up many years later. The mechanic in Utah had never seen anything like it. I wonder if its something unique to the coast area. The rig I bought had been used extensively down at the beach, spending weeks there during the summer. It had also been somewhat 'neglected' over those years.

Outcome: I have replaced both rubber lines on the front, and am going to inspect the rear brakes as well.


Posted By: havin fun on 08/07/04 10:40am

here is a good one

symptom : motor just quit

effect : nothing would work no starter .no gauges nothin .but it would start on the coach batteries and run as long as i held the switch down .made it to a exit ramp.

cause : the battery disconnect blade switch broke off and disconnected. hooked all the cables direct to the battery and shazam it worked .

outcome : put a new switch on it hopes this works . it is scarry to be far from home and something happen . mine was a quick fix. i can't amagine what is is like to have something majior happen .


retired
havin fun with 1999 georgie boy 3515
and the wife too .
V-10 ford
SLOW DOWN AND SMELL THE FLOWERS



Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 08/07/04 01:48pm

Havin Fun-
Sooner or later the major(s) will happen, in spite of everything we try to do preventively. My majors have never been from something I keep maintained like tires or fluids (except for the time I ran out of gas in the middle of Hwy 101 - I thought I still had 10 gals.), they've all been caused by something unforseen and seemingly built to fail.
Like a bad in-line starter relay 6 mechanics in 6 shops didn't know existed and was artfully hidden from view by General Motors, then replaced by a hardy solenoid on the production line in a timely fashion 2 weeks after my chassis was built. Burned up 4 starters and got me towed across Montana and Wyoming several times before I investigated and found the 1984 Chev shop bulletin and fixed it myself .
Or like the bundle of wires that Fleetwood Riverside had routed through a torched and jagged frame hole and over a muffler; lucky my coach didn't burn up on that one - my at-the-ready smoke smeller was on the job .
And the countless near-misses; disasters prevented by either routine inspections or inadvertant discovery. They point up the need for constant vigilance, esp. on older rigs that have worn or corroded from years of service. I regularly crawl under (and over) my Pace Arrow looking for potential problems, and inevitably end up refastening or resecuring nuts, bolts or wires, sometimes painting or coating or retapeing or replacing old parts. But you can never catch the one that Murphy's Law leaves for you, so when it comes to old Murph I walk softly and carry a big wrench .


Posted By: JimReling on 08/08/04 08:12am

This happened to a member of our RV club. After a stay of 7 days at a park in Calif his RV would not start. Removed the engine cover to find rats had moved in and chewed up all the wireing. I know lots of people that have had rats damage their RV.


Posted By: tedshark on 08/10/04 12:05am

My breakdown the guy I bought my MH from told me about problems with fuel filter so that was my breakdown I had extra filters and replaced them on the road and when that did not help I ended up messing around with the fuses and finaly got it to go it ends up that corosion of the electrical system is a little problem the fuse that supplies power to the electric fuel pump does not have good contact so I installed an alarm indicator light from the fuel pump power wire so that when the light goes out I know I have lost power to the fuel pump and it has come into use.


Posted By: Billdh435 on 08/10/04 09:28am

I had a similar experience on our 1987 Pace Arrow. I ended up doing the same thing with the indicator light.

However, in my case, it wasn't the fuse causing the bad connection. It was the relay that picks up when the oil pressure switch closes. The main contacts on this relay are what actually supply the voltage to the fuel pump motor. When I checked the operation of the relay by measuring the resistance across the contacts, it was not real obvious that it was the problem. There was continuity through the contacts but there was some small amount of resistance there. I forget the actual numbers now, but it was not enough that it really convinced me that the relay was bad. But I swapped it out with a new one and have never had the problem again. I also replaced the oil pressure switch because it seemed a little suspect at the time too. So I can't actually say for certain exactly which of the two components was the actual culprit in my case. But what ever I did, fixed the problem so I am happy.


Bill and Betty
2000 Class C Coachmen Leprechaun Ford Chassis Triton V10
2007 Saturn Aura Toad
and our 14 year old Dachshund named Lucky


Posted By: Dave Bowers on 08/11/04 05:08pm

I had a loose rivet on the 12v fuse strip so I lost all 12v until I had it fixed. I spent 1/2 trying to start my coach until I found that I had left it in park when we arrived. I also have had a broken alternator belt. I will always have Coach Net ERS service. They sent a guy who fixed the belt on the road.


Click Here For Barth Custom Coach Information





Posted By: retirednp on 08/12/04 10:04pm

1995 Newmar Mountainaire, Spartan Chassis
19000 miles at purchase on Feb o4
300 Cummins, 6 speed Allison
1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Toad
Problem sudden loss of all electrical on the Chassis
Solution: replaced the Battery Disconnect Selenoid (continuous duty selenoid) for the ignition
Cost $17.95 and lots of gray hair and bad nerves
I am new to this forum thing but just saw the post you made about loss of electrical on your rig. It first started out like the ac/heater fan was drawing too much voltage.This gradually became more common eventhough the selenoid tested ok, it would get hot and shut off for a few minutes until one day it would not start again. It was very unnerving to say the least in that it left us in the road twice.

* This post was last edited 09/14/04 10:47am by retirednp *





Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 08/13/04 09:34am

1994 Fleetwood Bounder 36.5'
190HP Cummins Diesel Engine
96,000 miles
Previous owner was a RV rental place in Alaska

Home has had many miles from Florida through states that use salt on the roads in winter or it tended to be near the coast (rusty chassis tho not to bad according to a coach technician).

Recent problem: After picking coach up at the consignment dealer, ran fine, restarted several times.
Got it home, parked it on a 3-5 degree slope, nose down.
Next day started fine.
3rd day would not start, strong batteries, just not getting fuel. Would not start for the next week.

Neighbor and #1 son worked on coach and gave up, but did notice that an air release banjo screw on the engine was striped, would not seal and allowed air into the fuel delivery system.

Hired diesel mechanic who did some magic involving removing the output hose from the water separator and dipping it in a can of diesel fuel, pumping the lift pump, cranking it for many seconds several times, etc. finally getting it to cough to life.

Mechanic decided that the banjo screw assembly needed replacement and that the in-the-tank fuel pump wasn't working or was weak.

Ordered and replaced banjo screw, two washers and the sealing screw, $39 worth of parts, $245 for labor (including trip charge) @ $60/Hr.

Since I had a backup out-of-tank in-line fuel pump ($55, cheap insurance) with a 5-9 GPM output, I went ahead and plumbed it in near the engine while we were waiting for the parts to be delivered, bolting it to the frame and rerouting the fuel hose. Additional parts needed were fuel hose ($3.60 per foot! needed 8') brass couplers and adapters to mate the 1/4" pump with the 1/2" system ($20 or so), clamps, and electrical connectors. Got lucky and found a nearby live wire for the pump that is live during 'run' and 'start'.

Starts great now! All I need do now is place a fuel filter for 1/2" hose in front of the pump and I'm good to go.


Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Fleetwood Bounder, '94
Cummins Diesel, 190HP, 36.5' with 50HP LP boost.
Black Rock Lava Park, Nevada



Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 08/13/04 01:03pm

Retirednp-
You didn't say who built your chassis. Freightliner, Spartan...?


Posted By: glasair on 08/13/04 07:59pm

Boy I hit the wrong key and have to start all over. My rig is a 1996 Allegro, chev. 454 P30 chassis with 70,000 miles. This is a long story, but it's hard to leave out details that I'm sure someone going to ask.

It happened on I15 between Las Vegas and St. George UT. I was going through the gorge, had just came down one hill, hit a flat area and bamb. Terrible noise coming from under the rig. I couldn't stop because I was over a gorge with NO shoulder. I went another 200 feet and seen a sandy pull over spot which I did. When I hit the sand I almost stopped dead, but had managed to be off the road by only 6". I tried to start the rig and move, but nothing moved. My cell phone was dead in the area and a HP came along about 12:30 and called Camping World RS. By 5 PM I got worried about the darkness etc. and gave a May Day to truckers going by. About 7 PM a wrecker camer from St. George 22 mi. away. After hooking up he started to disconnect the drive shaft and noticed that the rear whell was coming off the axle hub. So he had to go back and get a flatbed. About 8 pm he returned and winched the MH on the flatbed. Luckily the wheel screwed back into the axle instead of coming out any further and we got it on the trailer. Upon disassembly two days later, the axle had broken, bearing failed, broken brake line etc. which left no brakes, no emergency brake, nothing. If I'd of been going downhill, I probably would of lost control of the rig and hit the ravine. There was NO prior indication that anything was wrong, no bearing squeel etc. just bamb. Camping World had called a wrecker at MP 79 in Utah to go to MP 22 in Utah. I was at MP 22 in Nevada. The HP that called also identified himself as a NVHP at MP 22. I was told that a new axle was not available and a specialist cut the old axle housing off and welded a new one on, $1600. Both wheels were rebuilt. The scariest moment of my life when looking back on what could of happend to us. I could of been going down a step hill and finding out I had NO brakes, NO tranny to downshift, NO emergency break, and with the engine quit, very difficult sterring at 60 MPH!!!! It just wasn't our time to leave this earth.


Tradewinds 1998, Cat 3126 300 HP

Ron


Posted By: Big Katuna on 08/15/04 11:08am

Got a tank of bad fuel at exit 2 in GA in July 2004. Went about 150 miles, genset started surging and engine wouldn't make power; less than 2000 rpm, backfiring, etc. Hobbled to next exit, thinking it was ignition , thought about the genset surging, guessed about the gas and filled it up with 93 octane. Started it up and it has been fine ever since, another 2000 miles so far. Bottom half of tank must have had water or something.

ALso have a weird thing going on with the front brakes. THey have performed fine the whole trip, down steep grades, etc but overheated in stop and go traffic and boiled out fluid, losing pedal. I had them bled with high temp (Castrol LMA) a year ago. Taking it in to a Commercial Ford Truck place this Wed. THey are turning freely. I measured them when the were hot with my IR temp gun; over 500 degrees. After cooling, now read nid 200's. Going to replace calipers and master cyl for starters.


My Kharma ran over my Dogma.


Posted By: DAVE COSTA on 08/16/04 02:51pm

Last year had a 1987 El Dorado 27 footer. Was for sale had bought another. Already had new tires on it one year old and 3k miles on them. Sitting around trying to sell her . Getting ready for a trip in the other MH and had to get this one off the street. Was going to put her in a used rv.s For Sale lot and let them sell it. It was 20 miles out of town. Jump in and took off. Did not check everything. Had two rear tires go flat on the freway going about 50 mph. Both on the same rear dual. Called for Sams Tow. Went to Big O with the two flats. Seems the inside was low on air and that caused the outside one to go down. Big O replaced the two at 50% off. I took it... The rig was sold the next day to private party. I down check the tire pressure every trip, have the rig weighted , and adjust the pressure about 5 psi above the ratings for weights. I actually have a better rated tires all around, do not need to go the max. pressure.---- max. load pressure is 90 psi I get to use 75 all around and that is above the weight carring load. I can half way drive in peace.....
dave costa
1996 Aerbus 37 ft. one slide
93 sidekick toad.


Posted By: retirednp on 08/16/04 04:23pm

The rig is on a spartan chassis.


Posted By: Todd Barney on 08/21/04 07:54pm

Driveline: 1991 Chevrolet P30 454
1992 Fleetwood Southwind
~75k miles

Symptoms: Hard crank, acted flooded, caught with belch of black smoke, died upon putting it in gear.
Cause: Fault water temp sensor.
Outcome: Back to normal.

Details:
Evidence of rich running, based on soot at tailpipe, puff of black smoke on start up. But ran fine for 400+ miles from Atlanta down to Florida. Near end of trip, started sputtering and hesitating from a start. Idle high, around 2,000 rpm.

Rig would not re-start after backing into campsite. Acted flooded. Held down accelerator, engine would fire with huge clouds of black smoke, idle high, but as soon as I put it in gear, it would die.

Cooled off, next morning was able to start and drive to Wal-mart for supplies, but wouldn't re-start in the parking lot. Same acting flooded, black smoke, high idle, died in gear. Called mechanic.

Replaced distributor cap, rotor, and fuel filter. Battery was also very weak, and it was changed at this time. Same symptoms.

Ignition checked out okay, the computer was just dumping too much fuel. Mechanic hooked up a scanner. It gave no error codes, but he noticed the water temp sensor was reading 5 deg. F. (In Florida in August!) Apparently that was causing engine to run too rich.

Replaced sensor, fire right up, idle back in normal range, but "lumpy." Plugs were fouled from all of the rich running. Changed them, and pulled O2 sensor and wiped it clean (it was new) and idle smoothed out. Ran perfectly the 400+ miles back to Atlanta.


2006 Maxlite 30BHS
Maxlite Photos
Large: 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quadcab 4x4 V-10 5spd manual 3.73
Equal-i-zer, Prodigy
Medium: '07 Infiniti G35S
Small: '91 Miata
Pad the walls, we got 10-yr-old twins in here!



Posted By: ygohome on 08/25/04 05:14pm

Only wished I had had knowledge of this Forumn few years ago. Could literally write a book about our rig. Lemon from the first year, however, stupidly felt like we should fix everything & had a dealer that would listen but didn't help. Many parts had been recalled before assembly per different manufacturers contacted.
Have never had a trip without a problem. Each time feel now everything is right.
Last Sept.2003 had it checked out for a trip. Kept blowing fuses on trip. Back to shop. Had electrical wiring checked.
On way home from the shop lost all power. No power steering, no brakes, etc. Thank goodness emergency brakes worked. Towed to local garage, State Police ordered road service. Still haven't heard for the 3nd time from GS Rd Service (Unusual). Mechanic immediately said not getting gas. Replaced gas pump & filter. On way home from local garage planning to leave for Samboree, again the engine stopped. No fun losing control & rolling backwards on hill. Thankful again for emergency brakes. Tested and repaired??? (May mention even during times it was not used would continue to start it up weekly & few trips around the block.) This Spring, even though plugged into power source, had dead batteries. Mechanic claimed needed heavier duty batteries. Also found a spark causing it to short out.
Last week on way to have it inspected, lost power. Towed to original shop. Had to replace computer, still blew out. Than found a spark that was the cause & replaced the computer, coil that was damaged.
Arrived home & have tested it driving around the block.

It would be interesting to know the record of different manufacturers. Anyone thinking of buying a FLEETWOOD MH- buyer beware. 4th MH, outside of the 2nd MH- Jamboree Class C front end going out, other 2 had no problems. 1st MH, April 1970- lasted 11 yrs. & 131,000 mi.. Good old days!


Ygohome Jean


Posted By: DoubleTap830 on 08/26/04 12:29am

RV particulars: Winnie Itasca 33V
Driveline (8.1 WH20 Allison 5 Speed)
Miles: 1930
Year: 2004.5
Break Down Description: Coming home 10 miles from the dealership on a 3% grade in brand new MH, check engine light came on and lost about 50% power
Symptoms: See above
Effect: Had to pull over and have it flatbed towed back to Range RV in Victorville, CA where it sat for 9 days and I was treated like a Leper the same day I plunked down $140,000 for this dog.
Cause: Bad mass air flow sensor, failed alternator, bad ABS module, shorted tail light and flasher harness in dash, bad central computer module,
Results: I am not a fan of workhorse chassis.


'04 Itasca Suncruiser 33V, '05 Scion xB toad
'66 Wife ( Low mileage/high maintenance )
2 Noisy kids and a worthless chihuaha
( Just kidding, I love the dog )


Posted By: Rebounderman on 08/27/04 02:40pm

Trouble #1

RV particulars:37U Bounder
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):ISB300, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:5300
Year:2005
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Lost all electrical power while on the road
Effect: All dash instruments failed. Eventually chasis battery failed.
Causead Alternator
Outcome:Alternator replaced.
Excellent trouble shooting and repair by New Jersey Freightliner facility.

Trouble #2

RV particulars:37U Bounder
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):ISB 300, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:7200
Year:2005
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Check Engine light illuminated
Effect: No loss of power, smoking etc. just the light on
Cause: Bad exhaust temperature sensor
Outcome: Replaced sensor.

Lousy troubleshooting by Cummins center in Harrisonburg, Va. It took them 10 hours to correct and then they charged me $10 because they had to have the part taxied over from another shop in town.
Both repairs covered under warranty


Dave and Nancy Irwin



Posted By: havin fun on 08/31/04 02:48pm

we have a 1999 georgia boy 3515

drive line f53 ford

motor V-10

symptoms : won't come out of park

out come : replaced relay in steering column .to let it come out of park .ford said that their are 9 things that causes this . from blown fuses ,relay's , solenoid's ,cable , shift pin in transmission ,wiring.


Posted By: Richmeister on 09/01/04 01:00pm

Badeye, Did you ever compile any of the break down info you were collecting?


Posted By: Mr.Ron on 09/01/04 09:32pm

I have not had the misfortune to experience a major breakdown. But if I did I would want some protection from an extended warranty. I have a 1998 Bounder and have carried the extended warranty for coming up on 7 years. I have been considering the Good Sam extended warranty to the tune of $617.00 a year, that would not be much if I had a major breakdown. Can you or someone on the forumn give some of your thoughts on this and the subject of extended warranty in general.

Thank You

Mr. Ron
1998 Fleetwood Bounder
V-10, Ford F-53 chassis.


Posted By: jas415 on 09/03/04 09:44am

2001 Monaco Diplomat
Driveline: Cummins 8.3L ISC 330HP
Miles: 22,540
Year: 2001
Break Down Description: No AC power to front TV, satelite systems and refrigerator (Norcold 1200 LRIM) All other AC powered systems were working
Effect: Had to run Regrigerator on DC or LP
Cause: Tripped GFI outlet in bathroom
Outcome: Reset GFI and everything worked perfectly, never happened again.

We had just set up the coach at a campground, Goliad St Park in Goliad, Tx. had AC on, radio was playing, Microwave worked, etc, when I started to try to get refrigerator to work on AC. Indicated 'No AC', then I noticed the Satelite system was not powered up and there was no front TV working. Caled the dealership after looking through the manual for 30 minutes, and checking all the breakers and fuses. Nothing tripped or blown.

The GFI was installed to protect the AC outlets and the people in the coach, however, it was also hooked to the outlet in the outside panel of the refrigerator where there is a 110V outlet to plug the refrigerator in for AC power. That would protect a person outside. Great Idea and great safety, they just should have covered it in the manual.


Jerry and Virginia
2001 Monaco Diplomat
2003 Tahoe Toad,
Sadie the Westie.


Posted By: Ken-o on 09/04/04 05:49am

mine was caused by a *%$* mechanic who didn't put the cotter keys back in the spindle nuts (His insurance paid for repairs in full)


2008 Damon Challenger 34 ft,great for me and new wife to go to Sq and round dance weekends,Masonic,O.E.S.,and Natil United Methodist Campers weekends DECOLORES MY FRIENDS
Come see us at http://pages.prodigy.net/ken-o-vern


Posted By: Tak on 09/06/04 11:54pm

I don't know what the crossover posting rules are but I notice the class A owners post in the class c forum, so, I want to reply to this one.

"1991 Winnebago Warrior Toyota Chasis"

Had my first breakdown today. Was on the way to the Rennaissance festival , two blocks from my house my engine sputters a bit and camper rolls to a stop. In the middle of the street. NO warranty, no insurance and I cant afford towing. Ran back to the house, woke tennant with meter, came back, we pushed it back to the curb by hand "no fun" and after some study found out the secondary on the coil which should be putting out something like 10,000 was putting out 12. Not 12,000 just 12......

So after panicking a bit realising no wrecking yards for parts were open. finally tracked down the one chain NOT closed on Labor day, got a new coil and hit the road three hours late and eighty dollars poorer.

"I'm on social security, 80 bucks hurts"

But I am finding out what happens when you take a camper that has baked 13 years in Arizona up to damp rainy Minnesota. If there is any issue that can be afffected by moisture it will materialise reguardless of how well it was holding together in the dry, things leak, they mildew, and electrical connections go funny. After two weeks a corrosion pattern from a batery letting go started showing itself in the engine compartment, evnen though it must have happened at least 6 years ago. "Yay Humidity" So suffice to say its keeping me busy with nickle and dimeing.


Posted By: nsvanvoast on 09/07/04 08:51pm

We purchased a new 36 ft Pace Arrow , 2004, last November, one month ago we broke down and had to be towed to nearest Workhorse Dealer, am sure you know the rest, we are still without a motorhome, the engine had to be replaced due to a faulty oil pump. Are we happy with Workhorse, no, seems alot of tooing and frooing to get our motorhome back. Only 5,000 miles and all of this happening, what next....Anyone else out there have this problem....


nsvanvoast


Posted By: JerryKelly on 09/12/04 07:32pm

RV particulars: 2003 Fleetwood Revolution 40C
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 350, Freightliner Chassis
Miles:10500
Year:2003
Break Down Descriptionhassis suspension would not air up when jacks are retracted and engine on.
Effect: chassis too low to drive, can cause damage to drive shaft.
Cause: air dump valve would not reset
Outcome:under the MH (front axle area) is an override button that will reset the system and allow the air suspension to fill up. Freightliner and Fleetwood still trying to isolate the problem. It could be related to the jack system or the dump switch on my control panel.


Posted By: lukehelen on 09/12/04 08:57pm

The least expensive fix will be to ask freightliner to reroute and place a new switch right on your dashboard.


Posted By: UNYboater on 09/13/04 07:58pm

This is a great idea, BTW!

Ours are pretty mundane but thought you might want them anyway. They both happened on our old unit (we have just moved to a newer DP).

RV particulars: 1985 Pace Arrow 32' gas
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): GM 454 V-8
Miles: 80,000
Year: 1985
1st Break Down (Jan '03) Description: Engine failed to start
Symptoms: Stopped for supper, would start afterward. Rapped the starter & off we went. Stopped for fuel, and dash went dark when I tried to start.
Effect: May hours, fuses & jumper wires later, figured out the starter was drawing mega-AMPs whenever I hit the key & the relay connected.
Cause: Starter was dead-shorted. Replaced with lifetime rebuild from the Advance Auto across town & installed it myself.
Outcome: Other than the wind & 18 degree weather, it only cost me $45 & 11 hours; all's well that ends well!

2nd Break Down ( May '03) Description: Sudden over-heating of the engine & wandering steering. Engine died & lights dimmed.
Symptoms: Sudden over-heating of the engine & wandering steering. When I stopped (as quickly as safely possible on an Interstate) the radiator was emptying itself for me.
Effect: No power, no cooling, no power steering or brakes.
Cause: It took me about 15 minutes to figure out it wasn't a blown hose or rad, so I pulled the 'dog-house' & instantly found the problem; a frayed belt. Simple enough, I had made sure I had spares for the two listed in the manual when we bought the rig. On closer inspection, I found that not one but both were broken & one was totally gone! One ran the power systems (A/C & power steering/power brake pump) & the other the fan pulley & the alternator.
Outcome: An hour later, after fitting the inner one, I came to the realization that 'something' had been modified since manufacturing and only one of the belts was going to fit. It would fit either path but I only had one belt. I chose the path that gave us cooling & voltage. By the time I was done, the engine had cooled; it had only lost about a gallon & I had more with us, of course. The steering was awful & braking was next to nothing; I had to downshift & use both arms on the wheel & both feet on the brake to stop! The only good thing was that it was well after midnight by now & no one was on the highway. We traveled the remaining 150 miles home in about 4 hours, barely stopped in our backyard, & parked it for about two weeks before I even wanted to LOOK at it again! Bought another belt & it was fine again.

Hope to never add to this post with the DP !!! :-)
--Scott


Any given day, I'm Boating, shoveling or RV'ing south! or riding, wheeling, GP'ing

'07 Coachmen Freelander C3100SO: OLLY - "Our Lyl' Land Yacht"
'05 Jeep Liberty
('03 SeaRay 280 Sundancer, '99 SeaDoo 18' Jetboat; '91 Jeep YJ; '03 HD V-Rod, '01 Boxster S)



Posted By: CHOCOLATEART on 09/14/04 06:55pm

Dear Ames:

We own a Bounder 33' 1998 Vortec, we have had nothing but trouble with this RV, I will point out all the problems that we have encountered and maybe others will be luckier to find out what could happen before buying a RV.

1) Our first incident was a bad tire, OK this could happen to
anyone, however when we went to put the spare on, which
came with the RV we found out it was the wrong one, the
was a 19.5 alright but it only had 8 holes and it should
have 10, when we called Fleetwood, they insisted that they
put in the right one, this was our first call, they informed
us that someone must have switched it " very unlikely", how-
ever they did not want to replace it, we tried to get another
rim but no one had one, these rims are hard to find, we called
back to Fleetwood and was told not to worry, because now they no
longer put in spare, the reason given was that people try to
change their own tire and will get hurt, but if we call their
special road service they will come and change the tire and
rim as they carry them with them at all times throughout the
USA and Canada, Lord behold we had another bad tire, but the
road service never heard of such service for Fleetwood, so we
had to find the right tire, which by the way is a "as we where
told by many tire shops, a custom tire, we did find one that had
this size in stock in Montreal, Canada and had it put on.
On our last trip May 2004 we hit a pot hole on the highway and
blew a tire and bended our rim, after twenty phone calls with
Fleetwood, the only thing they could do for us was to ship us
a rim from California overnight for approx. $400.00 and we
would have to stay three days for it, this was not an option
we drove 1,500 miles with this broken rim and flat tire
(lucky it was the one on the rear outer side and the inside
tire was alright, we could not find a 19.5 rim, finally after
many calls on my cell phone and tire shops we got the
that had this rim in stock, a little truck shop, $65.00 each
needless to say I bought two, they guided me to some one that
happened to have the right tire for that rim, and we now had
a spare and went back on the road, on our way back the inside
new Michelin was a diffective tire and blew, again drove from
one tire shop to another to find this tire, Michelin gave us
credit and had to pay for what we used. Now we are back "ON
THE ROAD AGAIN" unfortunatly the two tires are worn on the
inside due to bad alignment or something, but could not find
the right size so we had to drive all the way from St. Louis
Missouri back to California with bad front tires. Now this
is only our tire story.

2) On our first trip we went to Prince Edward Island, Canada, we
wanted to retract our level jacks and they did not want to go
up, all the oil leaked out of the rear jacks, we again phoned
Fleetwood, they intructed us that it was the responsability
of Versa/tek Company who supplied the Power Gear, we phone
them but they could not do anything for us, only to give us
the wrong information on how to push them up. Whe we
arrived home we went to our RV shop and had them replaced,
but it took over a year to receive them, and when they where
delivered they where the wrong ones.
Again on our last trip we arrived very stressed at the RV Park
Riverside Casino in Laughlin, Nevada. We set everything up so
we could stay a few days to get over our other ordeals see (3)
I was packing up, and finally time to retract my level jacks,
and you guessed it, the rear drivers side did not go up, the
reason was that the heavy duty spring just snapped (broke) like
pot metal, I called quite a few rv repair places but no one again
had that particular spring, as it is an odd ball, we got the
jack up and tied it, this is still under warranty as they where
the new ones replaced before we went on our trip, as off today
we have to bring it in to the shop to have it repaired.

3) Then on our second trip back home, my transmission blew, lucky we
found a transmission expert in Montreal, Canada that rebuild it
and it was under warranty, Fleetwood paid for it, which cost us
three days, then when asked to check the breaks, we where in-
structed that the breaks have crumbled and will have to be re-
placed, which we did but paid out of our own pocket.

4) On our Third trip, we stopped in Myrtle Beach, Florida, while I
turned to park my engine went dead, could not start it again,
I called Fleetwood to see what they could do to help (ha, ha)
Called the Automobile Association, when they came they found
that my front new battery and reserve two new batteries where
melted with a short and they could not do anything, they gave me
a number to call, but he only could come in the morning, when he
arrived he know immediatly what happened, he said that he had
quite a few of these repairs on the bounder. It was the cable
that is grounded underneath the chassis that was installed in-
correctly and rubbed agains the steering rod, which wore out the
cable cover and shorted, this melted all three bateries and he
said ou whole coach could have been on fire, that we where lucky,
he replaced the cable and showed me the correct installation, he
was the best mechanic of Camping World for15 years until he went
on his own, while he was under the coach he also noticed that my
suspension was loose and found out that my A Frame broke, also
the two other spare batteries where again odd balls and will have
to go to a rv place to replace them (they where also brand new)
lucky for us there was a Camping World nearby, it also happened
that we are members, they took us immediatly, the mechanic that
helped us and that used to work there, instructed us to tell the
technician at Camping World to weld the A Frame, which they did.

5) Now we are back on the way to our destination, however the oil
gage did not work and the motor started to slow down, thinking
that this time our engine is gone, we where just at a gaz station
I checked the oil and it was low on oil, so I put oil in and we
where back on the road, arriving without further incident (ouf!)
Not to mention that the engine does not take hills, mountains even if
they are not steep, we start at 60/65 m.p.h. and ended up doing below
20 m.p.h. by the time we arrive at the top, this is not loaded and not towing a vehicle, it does worst with towing.

This RV was a stress box, a anxiety package, it made a nervous wreck out of us when we arrived we where almost brain dead.

We hope that our experience will help other to avoid it to happen to them.

We must say also that the Bounder is not all bad, it has one of the best floor plans that we have seen, it is easy on the road to drive
we like the shape and all the comforts of home if not more, except it should be parked instead of driven or use it for very short trips flat driving and down hill.

Yours sincerely

RDG


Posted By: Canuck1 on 09/14/04 07:43pm

RV particulars: Triple E Signature 3607GW
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):300 Cat 7.2l MD3060
Miles: 23800
Year: 2002
Symptoms: Battery warning light appeared in the instrument cluster
Effect: The chassis batteries eventually went dead causing loss of all gauges and the ability to shift the transmission.
Cause: Exciter wire on the alternator broke
Outcome: The solution was to replace the alternator. Until this could take place I was able to continue travelling by running the onboard generator which kept the chassis batteries charged. To get started initially I used the "boost" switch to bring the house batteries online with the chassis batteries.



2002 Triple E Signature A3607GW
300HP Cat, Allison MH3000
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada


Posted By: altex on 09/14/04 08:33pm




Posted By: metalmangler on 09/14/04 08:42pm

CHOCOLATEART, and anyone else who read that Fleetwood Horror-story--I trust you've now got a grip on it, that a 10-hole 19.5x6 rim is *not* a custom or even terribly rare item. My project-vehicle wears 6 of them; my first experience with anything bigger than stamped-steel 16.5s. I learned to translate "That's a rare tire-size, you'll never find one around here," too. It's a tire-salesman-dialect expression, meaning: "I have none of those in stock."

For the rest--AAAAAARRRGHHH. (an expression of solicitude).


Posted By: G L Hallenbrook on 09/16/04 03:47pm

Was unaware that coolant is flameble. please tell me more. what type anti-freeze were you using? I was superintendent for tech services with the local transit system (342 diesel coaches) and thaught I'de seen it all.


93 30H Flair
P32 454
02 Saturn


Posted By: faucet1 on 09/18/04 09:05pm

RV particulars: Itasca Sunflyer 36L DP
Driveline (Engine, Chassis, Transmission): 5.9 ISB, Freightliner, Allison md3060
Miles: 31,000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Bell dinging as occurs when tranny in gear with parking brake engaged.
Effect: Alert Bell started to ding while traveling down highway and continued until parking brake was set and tranny was put in neutral.
Cause: Loss/Low Air Sensor (three wire sensor)
Outcome: Replaced sensor

* This post was edited 10/29/04 05:33am by faucet1 *


2002 Monaco Diplomat 40 PST Triple Slide
Toad-88 Ford Mustang GT-Stick
David and Jean


Posted By: lake on 09/21/04 07:09am

So far, thank the good Lord, I have not had any breakdown problems with my Winnebago Journey, but reading these posts really scares me to death. I am almost afraid to take my MH our of the storage facility. It has Michelin tires which I hear are subject to blowouts, has no spare so if I have a flat in a remote area or even in a not so remote area, I am really in serious trouble. My leveling jacks are very slow to retract which always causes a lot of anxiety.





Posted By: Queenie on 09/21/04 03:47pm

jeez there's some right horrer stories on here, we are planning to tour the us in april and i'm getting scared now.


Me and My site


Posted By: HappyCamper1954 on 09/22/04 01:34am

bobpie,
I have a Coachmen Sentara with a 2001 V-10, I could have written your post myself..... except Check Engine Light did not come on. You have saved me a painstakeing troubleshooting routine. Only in heavy rain, I would get the mometayr "hick-up".. started subtile, then would get worse..... thought I had bought bad gas first time experinced.
Thank you for your input - you saved me a ton of time!!!!!!


2000 Coachmen Santara F-53 V10 - Rick, Marie and Junior - The Wonder Dog (retired)


Posted By: ygohome on 09/27/04 10:09am

Were you ever able to follow-up on your plan to get a log or record of break-downs. Jean


Posted By: slobote on 10/01/04 09:18pm

Break down info,

In may 2004 going from Florida to California while climbing the grades to Amarillo the red shutdown light and buzzer went on and then went away. 40 miles later the shutdown light went on and shut the engine down in the truck lane. it started right away and since the temp and oil pressure was ok we limped into the cummins dealer in Amarillo. They could find no faults with computer testing and sent us on our way. When we started the grades into California the same thing happened several times. We went into to a cummins dealer in Arcata California. The computer told him that the engine had been derated and shut down 20 times since we left texas. they replaced the fuel injection pump under warranty for the cummins 350 ISC and we headed to the state of washington. Around 300 miles on the way the check engine light came on and we felt a pause in the engine power. This only lasted for a few seconds and we kept going. It kept happening more frequently so we went into the cummins dealer in coberg Oregon. We spent almost two weeks there while they replaced the ECM, the the engine wiring harness, the fuel filters, a 200.00 fuel sensor, and isolated the entire fuel system and found no air leaks. At this point we left, and 100 miles later the check engine light came on with the same loss of power for a few seconds. When we reached Ventura California we went into the Cummins dealer and they thought that they had fixed the problem and we headed to Florida. 200 miles later the same light came on and we continued to Kingman Arizona when the check engine light kept comming on every 20 miles. At this point we realized that the engine was being derated when the light came on and we had to climb the small hills into Kingman in Second gear at 2000 RPM. Great western trucking was not a cummins dealer but was authorized to do warrantee work. The computer indicated that the problem was the fuel injecter pump that had been replaced two months earlier in Arcata california. While starting to replace the pump they found a wire socket to the pump had become loose and was sending incorrect messages to derate the engine. Torqued it down to the proper torque and we were on our way to Florida. From Kingman arizona to where we are now (Fort Myers) the engine has performed as it should, getting an easy 8.2 MPG at 65 MPH+ while pulling a PT cruiser with a 40 foot Newmar Mountain Aire.

It sure feels good to be home,

BOB

* This post was edited 10/02/04 06:59am by slobote *


Bob and Mardel
2001 Beaver Monterey Trinidad DP
One well behaved cat (CC)
Fort Myers, Florida
Long Beach,California


"and ye shall know the truth and the truth shall set you free"

CIA motto


Posted By: bobpie on 10/03/04 07:39am

Quote:

bobpie,
I have a Coachmen Sentara with a 2001 V-10, I could have written your post myself..... except Check Engine Light did not come on. You have saved me a painstakeing troubleshooting routine. Only in heavy rain, I would get the mometayr "hick-up".. started subtile, then would get worse..... thought I had bought bad gas first time experinced.
Thank you for your input - you saved me a ton of time!!!!!!
Glad to be of help. My coach has run great since. Altough I have yet to drive in a very heavy down pour like that time.


Posted By: frac on 10/04/04 11:19am

Lil Truckr,

The same thing happened to me. Same symtoms and all. Our coach quit near San Antonio and started again before I came to a stop. This happened two more times. The forth time it quit I was at an exit an pulled off with a dead engine. I sat there for a minute and said 'well, we have Good Sam Road Care'. I tried to start the engine one more time and it started. Did not have a problem all the way to out destination Fort Worth. Turns out the a battery disconnect I had installed on the battery was intermittently losing contact. I found this out quite by accident but removed the disconnect and have not had any problems since. Driving a '99 Ford V10 gas banger.


Posted By: G L Hallenbrook on 10/04/04 09:58pm

Had your pinched front brake line twice, both on GM chassis. I won't tell you how many things I changed before I figured it out, you'de think I'de learn. They happened about ten years apart


Posted By: karel on 10/10/04 05:46pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 Cat, Allison Transmission
Miles: 21,000
Year: 2001
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Would overheat when climbing, never on the flat roads
Effect: Alarms would go off and we would have to stop and wait
for the temp to come down
Cause: A bracket had come loose that was holding an expansion joint causing hot air to spill out and be trapped under the coach
Outcome: We got it fixed.


A little more info: WE were told that there was a problem with the radiator collecting road dust from an oily discharge from the engine. It was a design failure. They told us just to keep the radiator clean and we would not have a problem. However, when we headed for the mountains, we would continually overheat. It finally overheated to the point that our hydraulic lines to the slides and the air hoses to our breaks melted. THe guy that was sent out for road side service shined a flashlight down into the engine and noticed the loose bracket. He said by the looks of the carbon built up, it was loose for quite a while. Since we got everything fixed, we haven't had ANY problem at all. Karel


Former:
27' Komfort TT
9' Artic Fox Camper
Presently:
2001 Itasca Horizon


Posted By: DoubleTap830 on 10/10/04 06:15pm

I am afraid I have to once again add to this thread. Nothing would make me happier than to stop posting here.

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser 33V
Driveline: 8.1 W-20
Miles: 3978
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Engine lost power topping a 7% grade, all the lights on the instrument cluster came on and all the alarms sounded. Went into reduced power mode and limped off to a stop on the right shoulder on US 66 between Kingman and Peach Springs AZ Sept 22, 2004
Symptoms: All dash warnings came on and power went away.
Effect: Had to pull over in an area with no cell service and stop.
Cause: Unsecured secondary grounding strap from the factory
Outcome: Turned off the engine and did a visual inspection of the engine. Everything looked fine including temperature. Started it back up, ran fine except orange " check engine " light stayed on. Kept driving another 16 miles watching gauges until I got cell service. Called my dealer "Range RV Victorville, CA" they were no help. Told me to have it towed to the nearest Workhorse service center 186 miles away in Flagstaff. Called the 800 number on my Workhorse card, they connected me with a technician. He had me crawl under the right front wheel and pull off the air cleaner cover and check for major dirt or blockage and mass air flow sensor connector wiggled loose. That wasnt it so he had me turn off the ignition for 2 minutes, then turn the key from dead off to start and back 5 times in 10 seconds. That reset the orange trouble light. He advised me to have fun on my trip and have my dealer download the trouble code history when I got home. No further problems that trip. which was 1400 miles.

I got back home and turned the rig in for service. They found a ground strap which was not bolted to anything. There were 21 trouble codes saved in the PCM which made no sense, so they dug deep and found the hanging grounding strap.

Waiting now to pick it up from service. 29th day in the shop in the first 9 weeks of ownership.

God Bless workmanship.

Workhorse says Winnebago must have disconnected the grounding strap during the coach build and forgot to reconnect it before roll-out.


Posted By: EngineerMike on 10/11/04 09:00pm

Rig: 96 Safari Trek on 95 (OBD1) chassis
Driveline: 6.5L TurboDiesel (GM) w/4L80E tranny, 23.5K miles
Symptom: started sputtering, then over next 300 miles, got worse till it wouldn't run reliably.
Troubling factor: we were 650 miles south of San Diego
Problem: electronic fuel injection
Problem getting a good diagnosis: GM service rep in La Paz stated elegantly, "We never sell dat chit down here." (He was referring lovingly to EFI, they have plenty of diesels, just not electronics).
Fix: return to USA to get OBD1 computer & spare parts; return to Mexico to try parts & read computer codes; return to USA to get new electronic injection pump; return to Mexico to install.
Moral: for 6.5L GM diesel, subscribe to TheDieselPage.com, and keep a good sense of humor well oiled. And of course, take spare EVERYTHING to Mexico.
See y'all in Yucatan in '06.


08 Alpine Coach 36FDDS The Ultimate DIY Project
425 Cummins/Allison


Posted By: captron33 on 10/17/04 06:22pm

I have a 2000 Mtn. Aire.ford v-10. About once a year I get the amber ck. eng.soo mssg. Does anyone have a fix besides going to ford to clear it???? Thanks Capt. Ron


Posted By: faucet1 on 10/24/04 09:09pm

RV particulars: Itasca Sunflyer 36L
Driveline (Engine, Chassis,Transmission): 275 ISB 5.9, Freightliner, Allison md3060
Miles: 31,000
Year: 1999
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Low air pressure
Effect: can’t drive
Cause: Air Dryer filter mounted under the spin-on filter disintergrated causing valve in bottom of air dryer to remain open.
Outcome: Replaced both spin-on and inter-filter located just under spin-on. Also had to replace the lower outlet valve. Total cost of parts about $180.

* This post was edited 10/29/04 05:29am by faucet1 *


Posted By: RCL on 10/26/04 06:47pm

You don't state what chassis you have, but my Holiday Rambler with a Freightliner chassis exhibited a similar problem. Turns out that there are 2 circuit breakers located just above the frame rail on the passenger side near the engine. When you draw too much current, these breakers heat up and open up. In a minute or so, they reset, leaving no trace of what happened. This happened to me about 4 times, and HR was at a loss. A call to Freightliner quickly resolved the problem. One of the breakers had gotten "weak" and would open up, cutting the lights, engine, gauges, etc. It happened at night the first time, and I coasted to the side of the highway. I replaced that breaker and the problem went away.

Hope this helps,

Dick Lucas


Posted By: boondockrookie on 11/08/04 01:04am

RV particulars: Foretravel FX350 Diesel Pusher
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 3208 Cat, Allison 4 speed
Miles: 144,000
Year: 1981
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: Overheated on Interstate. Temp guage topped out. Smoke & steam trail.
Effect: Immediate pull over & shut down situation.
Cause: Blown Radiator heater hose
Outcome: Lucky. Hose blew right next to radiator. After the engine cooled down I removed the hose at the radiator, cut off 4", (the part with the hole) and reattached it. Then filled the radiator with fresh water from my tank and I was back on the road. Oddly enough, I had just had the RV serviced and told them to replace any worn belts or soft hoses. At my first opportunity I replaced the broken (repaired) hose myself, and added anti-freeze/coolant. Good thing too, because the hose had another bubble that was ready to burst.


Boondock Rookie


Posted By: Mike Lutz on 11/13/04 08:31am

Please consider the truck stops and islands labeled "MH". In the island they dispense gasoline and diesel using the traditional "GREEN" fuel dispenser. The pump had 3 black and 1 green. The green nosel is traditionally for diesel! I accept full responsibility for my error in not checking. This cost $1400 (40 gallons or gas removed from diesel tank) to get service to have the fuel removed and re refined ! The service rep informed me it happends every day because people mistake the green nosel as a diesel dispenser!!! Pay close attention or pay a dear price.

* This post was last edited 11/13/04 08:45am by Mike Lutz *


Mike Lutz


Posted By: CMeyer on 11/18/04 11:00pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Safari Kenya, Cummins B5.9, Allison 4 speed, Oshkosh chassis
Miles: ~20k
Year: 1992
Break Down Description: We lost the power steering on our 34-foot Safari as we turned north from east bound I-86 onto I-15 at Pocatello, Idaho, in September 2000. We continued north towards Idaho Falls while trying unsuccessfully to locate a shop that was open on Saturday afternoon. Then when I stopped on the shoulder (to ask for help from a helpless state trooper), the automatic parking brake locked up and we were down and out. The Good Sam operator then dispatched Hendrickson’s Pro-Tow from Idaho Falls.
Ron Hendrickson and his son James arrived promptly, dropped the drive shaft, and towed us to Lake City International Trucks, Inc. in Idaho Falls. Ron even gave us his home phone number and told us to call any time, even at 3 AM, if we needed anything! We found an electrical outlet and plugged in to keep the batteries charged and waited for Monday.
Monday morning, Jeff Schow of Lake City International checked out the problem and concluded that an RV service center would more familiar with the system. He called Eagle Rock RV Service Center, which dispatched a mechanic to free the parking brake and guide us to their shop. Meanwhile, Jeff had our drive shaft reinstalled. He would not charge us for this or for the electricity we used, but said we would just have to charge it up to their good will towards getting us on our way!
John Henry, the owner of Eagle Rock, and his wife and staff treated us well, allowed us to stay in the RV inside the shop, and tolerated our dogs while waiting for the parts to arrive. John even let us use his brand-new pickup to go shopping! By mid-day Wednesday we were on our way again. Cost was slightly over $1000.
Breaking down in a strange place is not a pleasant experience. However, the people we encountered were nothing but pleasant and helpful. If you have to break down, Idaho Falls is a good place to do it! Good Sam’s Emergency Road Service came through for us too.

Symptoms: Lost power steering and after stopping, power brakes locked up.
Effect: Initially very hard to steer, then unable to move.
Cause: Power take-off to hydraulic pump stripped on both ends.
Outcome: Required 2 components, one available in Pocatello, the other had to come from Reno. The parts supplier in Reno despite charging for expedited service, didn't manage to get the part to UPS, costing an extra day down-time. Have had no further problems with this, but wonder if it was under-designed!


Seems like breakdowns fall into the catagories of bad luck, someone's screw-up, or possible systemic problems with a make, model, component, or the like. Can't do much about luck. The screw-ups, whether by owner or "service" people, can help up all to learn how to avoid the same problem, but generally don't relate to a problem with the particular rig. The biggest benefit of this effort might be to identify the systemic problems, which seems to be the original intent. Might be worth sorting the tales of woe into such catagories to make it most useful.

Colton Meyer


Posted By: OLD EASY on 11/20/04 12:04pm

BADEYE:::: AFTER READING ABOUT THE 1ST 10 PAGES OF YOUR POST I'VE COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT:: If I stay away from DP's GM's And Workhorse chasis and get a v-10 and not drive it in the rain I can get rid of my break-down Insurance,I check all the tires every time I start a trip also ck the oil for leaks and any wet spots under camper, also don't run tires over 5 years old they usually take out $1200 worth of fender well when they blow out Your post is worth it's weight in gold if your readers are smart, we all know they are because they are campers,"Just a little food for thought"


Bob, Jan & Lizzy(long hair doxie] 2000 Adventurer

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: HappyCamper1954 on 11/22/04 03:16am

Quote:

BADEYE:::: AFTER READING ABOUT THE 1ST 10 PAGES OF YOUR POST I'VE COME TO THE CONCLUSION THAT:: If I stay away from DP's GM's And Workhorse chasis and get a v-10 and not drive it in the rain I can get rid of my break-down Insurance,I check all the tires every time I start a trip also ck the oil for leaks and any wet spots under camper, also don't run tires over 5 years old they usually take out $1200 worth of fender well when they blow out Your post is worth it's weight in gold if your readers are smart, we all know they are because they are campers,"Just a little food for thought"


Badeye... LOL..... sometimes it's a "wing and a prayer", "seat of the pants" and/or "lady luck"... I love it.... life in a MH is plain and simple.... a different world..... Rick


Posted By: Toot Mc on 11/29/04 08:52pm

RV particularseaver Monteray
Drive line: (3129 cat 300 hp, Allison 6 sp.)
Miles: 34,000
Year:1997
Break Down Description: Friday 10/22/04 noon stopped for lunch on Natchez trace at miss./Tenn. Border Could not start Engine to go on to Nashville.

Symptoms: Engine would turn over at normal starting speed but would not start. Acted like it was not getting fuel but would not start. Called road side service but wrecker was too small to tow M/H. Mach held rag soaked in gasoline over intake, engine would start and run for a few seconds. (please don't try this trick as it looked very dangerous to me.) I found One in line Fuse holder From Chassis Battery's but it was good. engine would still not start.

Effectaturday 10/23/04 afternoon late Tow company sent big tow rig and towed M/H 150 miles to Nashville Fraightliner garage. Rig sat all day Sunday 10/24 Finally late Monday 10/25 after noon the tech started to work on M/H. Tried to start engine but would not start, Disconnected wiring Harness from engine computer Inserted cat shop diagnostic computer into Harness Engine starts and runs like brand new. Reattached chassis wiring harness and engine would start bur shop computer said it was getting very low voltage (about 7 to 8 volts) Shop Foreman was not satisfied they had found problem and I was not satisfied ether. I gave them Two Hours labor to see if they could find real problem.

Cause: Fraightliner M/H tech found Two more In line fuse holders that had fallen down behind Chassis battery's (if I had seen the holders I would have checked same) holders were full of water and fuse (15 amp and 20 amp) spades were corroded so bad that engine computer was getting low voltage. Fuse holders replaced new fuses and holders filled with dio-elect grease to keep water out in the future.

Outcome: Engine ran perfectly 2'200 more miles to get us back home with out a hitch.

Cost: Insurance tow 150 miles (Mad at insurance co because it took a night and 1 day to convince them we needed a big tow rig with a 10 ft reach to tow M/H to nearest shop that would work on M/H's.)
$731 parts and labor
$200 Motel bill

Update: Called Monoco "Beaver" Motorcoaches and they went back through there records and run me a copy of all the electric schematics for my coach. People at Monoco Company were very helpful and went out of there way to find schematics for my 7 year old coach.

* This post was edited 12/18/04 04:35pm by Toot Mc *


97 Beaver, 300 cat
2009 Lincoln MKX AWD
Airforce1 towd Brake system
2011 VESPA GTV 300
US Navy 1954->62, EM-1, USS Boxer CVA-21, USS Essex CVA-9



Posted By: BirdWoman on 12/06/04 05:19am

Hello Badeye,
Please add me to your list of interested RVers to receive Breakdown information. This is quite a task you have offered to undertake. We are in the process of purchasing our first MH (35' 1999 Winnebago Chieftian) and any information regarding breakdowns will be very valuable.

Thanks in advance for all your work!

Sandy & Aubrey


BirdWoman & Hubby
Jade & Mickey our feathered travelers
1999 Chieftian 35U V10
Banks System
2006 CR-V toad
WIT F356563 Good Sam
Rallies 3



Posted By: Big Katuna on 12/07/04 07:28pm

1998 Holiday Rambler Vacationer
Ford F53 460 V8
38,000 miles, bought in 2002 with 22000 miles
2004 Honda Element toad


1. Right front blowout on a five year old Michelin, properly inflated with no cracks. Replaced with G rated, 14 ply GoodYears. Will replace fronts every four years from now on.

2. Lost brake pedal in slow rolling, stop and go traffic; both fronts hot and boiled fluid out. Mobile RV guy recommended new Hydra booster and vacuum booster ($1400). I passed. Pedal returned after it cooled. I drove home re-bled with hight temp fluid, drove another year, no repeat UNTIL I got stuck in a bridge closing detour with SLOW ROLLING, STOP AND GO TRAFFIC. Both fronts hot again and boiled out fluid again. FORD Truck dealer blamed it on sticky caliper slides and replaces all four calipers $1200. Fine for another month UNTIL I GOT STUCK IN SLOW ROLLING STOP AND GO TRAFFIC AGAIN (sound familiar?) This time I caught it early. Both fronts hot again, ( I bought a Sears infrared temp gun heh, heh, heh) but I figure out the fronts drag for about 5-10 seconds after you take your foot off brake, so in slow stop and go traffic, they keep getting hotter and hotter. I searched this (wonderul) forum and replaced both front hoses, which seems to have fixed it, but every once in awhile, I can hear them drag for a few seconds when leaving a fuel stop. I am going to replace the master cylinder paying close attention to the piston rod spacing, as one contributer said there was a TSB on improper spacing.

3. Drove this coach for 10,000 miles before losing power, sputtering, backfiring, etc going up a mid size incline in SC. You could turn the key on and off and it would be OK for another hour, day, two days, etc. Got really bad the higher you went. Ford truck dealer in Philly wanted $4500 to replace gas tank saying filter was clogged, tank rusty. I told him to attempt aeronautical intercourse with a motivating pastry, limped it back to FL. Did a search of this (wonderful) site and diagnosed a bad fuel pump WHICH IS A KNOWN PROBLEM THAT ALL FORD TRUCK DEALERS HAVE RECEIVED A TSB about (TSB #97-23-9). I have a new pump and am trying to find a Ford mechanic that has done it a few times.

NON-SHOW STOPPPERS
4. Rear camera intermittent, found a bad solder joint on a PC board in engine compartment.

5. All four HWH jacks needed rebuilding at purchase.

6. Woke up about 6:00AM one morning to the sound of water running in the bathroom; washer machine valve (never installed) decide to cut loose. GLAD we were there for that one!!!

7. Right rear tag brake not working. Took apart and put back together and it works. I think the magnet was hung up on its slide. Greased and seems fine.

8. HWH jack controller went dead, no lights, power to control panel fine. Went to take cover off and as I started to unscrew the first screw the lights came on. There are spring loaded contacters that provide power to the LEDS and switches. I used a pencil eraser to clean, fine ever since.

9. Onan quit outputing at 750 hours. I bought troubleshooting guide from Onan, and narrowed it down to a bad rotor. I didn't have a garage then and you can't return it if that isn't the problem, so took it to dealer, who confirmed and replaced. $750 for rotor, $350 labor. SOlved.

10. A year later, at 1100 hrs. Onan starts surging and would sometime shut off, voltage probably out of spec. On a whim, I bought a can of carb cleaner. When I touched a wrench to one of the nuts holding on the carb, it was less than finger tight. Tightened and it was fine. Removed carb and cleaned anyway. Fine now at 1500 hours.

11.Right exhaust manifold repaired twice, broken bolt replaced the first time.

12. Kwikee step motor burned out and replaced. Suspect cruddy crimp job from factory a contributing factor. Works like it never worked before now.

13. Leak under kitch sink due to loose drain pipes. Dam rough roads!

14. Toilet valve developed leak. Could have replaced valve but bought new ceramic toilet which was one of my better decisions in a while.

15. Lots of other minor things that justify bringing tools along.
Replaced all hoses and belts within a few months of purchase. Bilsteins, new steering damper, etc. No leaks, no problems with slide, fridge, AC's, dogs or wife. Check engine light came on once. On the Honda, not the wife.

GOD, I LOVE MOTORHOMING!!!


Posted By: cwdavis on 12/09/04 03:43pm

Diesel tank leak!

particulars: Monaco Windsor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 275 6 sp Allison
Miles: ~72,000
Year: 1996

Break Down Description: A while after parking in a campground between Ann Arbor & Detroit, noticed a wet spot under the motorcoach, well away from the water compartment. It was diesel fuel, the drip rate was high, and this was a Sat evening! We had driven I77 north thru Ohio, possibly the roughest road we've ever been on. Went out to a Walmat, bought a metal pan & funnel, and spend the next 36 hrs pouring fuel back into the tank. On Mon, drove to a Cummins Service Center near Grand Rapids, which was near our destination.

Symptoms: fuel leak
Effect:
Cause: split seam on tank
Outcome: Spent 2 nights camping in the service bay while tank was pulled, sent to a local company to be rewelded, & reinstalled.


Bill & Ann Davis
1995 36' CC Intrigue
WHTAL!FE


Posted By: OLD EASY on 12/12/04 01:34pm

cwdavis... I know this too late to do you any good, but you could have stopped the leak if you could have seen the hole. just take a bar of soap, any kind and rub it into the hole it,ll stop the leak for hours and even while going down the highway, we used to use this method to seal off leaks in our gasoline tankers that would develop a leak to get us safely off the highway and unloaded before repairing it, I hope someone can benifit from this as that is a miserable and dangerous position to be caught in, you could have been injured very bad if the product runs over and gasoline is even a worse fire hasard and while fighting the leak you get wet from it and it,ll burn your skin just from being wet. This is not a repair but it could by you some time to find the right repairs with out having to let some one that knows you are in a bind and charge 3 prices....Haaapppy Holidays....


Posted By: mombum on 12/12/04 02:44pm

My feeling exactly, Old Easy. I'm a full-timer and those checks you mention are routine for me. So far no goof-ups due to inattention on my part.


Time's a wastin'

mombum
'00 Winnebago Journey DP
'02 Saturn
'00 Red Dachsie, Molly


Posted By: SteveRit on 12/13/04 12:00pm

Please add me to your list as well. I have posted some breakdowns with my old motor home, just bought a new one and no problem so far. Outside of a nail in a tire.

Thanks


Posted By: tuckerin on 12/17/04 01:09pm

Make: 92Country Coach/Magna/ 50K miles
Driveline: Cat/Allison
Headed North out of Nashville back of coach filled up with hazy smoke and an excited dear wife describing same. Did an immediate pull off with bad thoughts overloading the frontal lobes. The discharge line from the AC compressor came loose at the flare nut connection, obviously never properly tightened, lost the freon and blasted the hot motor with the oil entrained in the freon, lots of smoke but luckily no fire, shut off AC and finished the trip with roof air only. Have since lost two alternators and one set of belts to the hydraulic pump, am very happy with the overall quality of the coach.


Posted By: hoodbird on 12/20/04 04:04am

You need to check your dryer. I had the same problem and each time the mechanics told me it was the governor. After five governors, one showed me how to go around the dryer if it should happen again (and it did) so I rebuilt the dryer, no more problems. check the wet air tank to see if it has water in it. If it does (dryer) easy to rebuild.
hoodbird


Posted By: San Benito on 12/20/04 02:11pm

Nantra, I have had the same trouble, but it will eventully start. Where exactly is the relay and what does it look like. I thought it may have something to do with the shift lever and neutral switch.
1989 Southwind P30 chassis, 454Chev.
My Chev. has broken the serpintine type belt driving the water pump twice. This installation turns the water pump in the standard direction whereas the newer serpintine belts turn backwards from what we are used to. The problem seems to be that the contact only covers less than 45 degrees of surface of the fan pully. When the fan clutch engages the belt will slip and burn up.
I am installing Flexolite m/n 295 and removing the driven fan entirely. I hope the earlier chassis has the "V" belts. Jesse


San Benito


Posted By: San Benito on 12/20/04 02:35pm

Re: No start faulty relay, fan belt breakage, 1989 Chev P30 454 w/Quadrajet carburator, gasoline, Turbo 400 trans, 32'Southwind

Drivers, I have had the same trouble as nantra, but it will eventully start. Where exactly is the relay and what does it look like. I thought it may have something to do with the shift lever and neutral switch.
1989 Southwind P30 chassis, 454Chev.
My Chev. has broken the serpintine type belt driving the water pump twice. This installation turns the water pump in the standard direction whereas the newer serpintine belts turn the pump backwards from what we are used to. The problem seems to be that the contact covers less than 45 degrees of surface of the fan pully. When the fan clutch engages, the belt will slip and burn up.
I am installing Flexolite m/n 295 and removing the driven fan entirely. I hope the earlier chassis has the "V" belts.
Check list format is a great idea! Good Sam ERS has saved me twice. Jesse


Posted By: San Benito on 12/20/04 04:11pm

Same rig, plugged fuel strainer inside left frame near the door. This takes a half inch inline filter.


RV particularsouthwind 32-K
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):454-4bbl
Miles:48000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: engine popping and backfireing under load,( going uphill)
Effect: a pulsation feel in the coach and a popping sound while driving up some grades. Cause:never really found out. I did change all the plugs & wires, cap,rotor,ignition control module
Outcome:This did work for a while but the problem came back after about 2 to 3,000 miles. Also I did replace burned out #8 plug wire twice during this problem time frame. Traded in the coach with 52,000 miles

2001 suncrusier, V10, 32-v, dinning slide, 1 wife, 1 westie, life is good! 03 malibu toad sometimes,


Posted By: lharnage on 12/29/04 09:57am

Central california coast on a four day trip with daughter and son-in -law's 2003 Southwind 32 with 8.1 workhorse.
On two lane mountain road fourteen miles in from main highway and no cell reception oil light came on. stopped and checked oil stick, coach had just been serviced and had full oil. hopeing it was a sensor we babied it the last few miles to pay phone, lifters were rattling by then. Had towed to workhorse contract dealer in Lompoc. Three weeks later picked coach up with new engine on warranty and a few personal items that had been taken from the coach while at the dealers service center, of course their employees had nothing to do with the ripped out stereo and greasy foot prints on the bed.
cause of problem was a broken shaft in the oil pump, have read other posts of this same problem with the work hoarse but no recall as yet,it must be a corporate buisness decision.


Posted By: grm77979 on 12/29/04 06:55pm

RV particulars: Mountain Aire, 40’
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins, Allison
Miles: 100,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: Front left tire blew out
Effect: Pulled me into the left lane
Cause: Michelin
Outcome: Replaced with Goodyear


Glen

1997, 40' Mountain Aire DP, one slide
325 Cummins, 6 speed Allison

Toad - Jeep Wrangler


Posted By: HappyCamper1954 on 12/30/04 03:39am

I have been "caught" on this one before.... did you change the fuel filter????


Posted By: Little Jim on 12/31/04 12:21am

Bluebird Wanderlodge 33 ft.
534 cid Ford, Allison MT640
101,000 Original owner used coach on weekend jaunts to CA State Parks
1977

Stranded in rest area in NW Georgia (near Calhoun) Drove in - shut off engine - ran genset to power microwave - restarted drove 110 yds -
stalled - restart - stalled - restart ad infinitum. Called GA Highway Patrol, got referral for Cherokee Auto Repair. Mechanic and helper made repeated service calls - got engine to run long enough to get to his shop (used pre-owned ignition module).

Start/Stall/Restart
Coach could not move more than 30 ft. for 3 days
Aftermarket Electronic Ignition Failure (Magnapulse)
Shop installed current Ford OEM electronic ignition, had to fabricate new A/C compressor bracket because new distributor 6" taller. New coil and ignition module (spares provided) Milage increased from 3.9 mpg to as much as 6.4 mpg towing a 2000 Jeep Cherokee! Coach will run 70-75 mph but we employ an Audivox cruise control to run a steady 60 mph.


Little Jim


Posted By: texasreb on 01/02/05 10:18am

RV particulars: 1998 Country Coach Magna Fanfare 40'
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 hp Detroit Diesel 40
Allison 3060
Miles: 33800
Year: 1998
Break Down Description: Purchased coach from PPL in Houston as consignment vehicle. During initial trip to Dallas, experienced engine missing with blue smoke and loss of power after driving 200 miles.
Symptoms: Engine missing with loss of power and lots of blue smoke from exhaust.
Effect: Road service found fuel filter problem due to water in fuel (coach has no water/fuel separator).
Cause: Coach had not been used for some time and water condensed in fuel tank. My inexperience (my first RV) and PPL's lack of forethought caused the problem.
Outcome: Delayed four hours, cost $300 for service call, caused a lot of second thoughts about purchase. After having unit serviced and taking short trips, life is much better.


Bob & Elinor
1998 40' SSDP CC Magna 330 Detroit Diesel
2005 Honda CRV


Posted By: Rex10093 on 01/11/05 07:26pm

Hello

This is one of my more challenging trips. Our route, Mt. Vernon MO. to Paducha KY for the National Quilt show. We wanted to travel only secondary highways and enjoy the country side.
I emptied my auxiliary 40 gallon tank, and transferred to the main 60 gallon tank, oops, motor home engine quit, electric fuel pumps chattering, but no fuel pressure. Now the fun begins, we are driving on U.S. 60 a 2 lane with no shoulder. My wife quietly asks are you sure you filled ALL the tanks. Of course I had, when I exited the vehicle I could smell fuel, I looked under our motor home and ahhhh @# a large puddle of fuel under the rear of our vehicle, I asked Dee (my wife) to turn on the ignition switch. When switched on, the fuel gushes out from the top of the fuel tank.
Not only do I have a motor home which will not run, but I also have U.S. 60 East bound traffic blocked. We belong to Good Sam and I have their towing service, but no way am I going too just sit here and wait. My other choice is drop my toad (1996 Cherokee jeep) move it to the front, and attaching a tow strap from the jeep to the motor home, now that’s the easy part, trying to convince my wife to drive the jeep with the monster behind her is another story. But off we go blazing down the highway at approximately 8 miles per hour. About 2 or three mile down the highway I spotted an area I thought would accommodate our motor home; I called Dee over the CB and asked her to gently start moving off the road, in a gentle and calm her reply “ARE YOU CRAZY “, no I state the motor home should fit.
We are now off the highway, and the traffic is again moving at a normal pace. WOW the angle on the shoulder is a bit more than I had anticipated, but no problem.
My dear wife a little pale asks NOW will you call for a tow truck, of course not (that would be like me asking for directions). I disconnect the jeep and start driving, looking for an auto parts store.

I purchased 30’ if 3/8” rubber fuel line, an electric fuel pump and 50’ of 12ga. Wire. When we returned to the motor home I transferred 40 gals. of fuel from the main tank to the auxiliary tank.

We are now ready to hit the road, well not just yet, I now have a problem the motor home is now leaning a bit more than I anticipated and the left rear duals are not getting any traction, not enough weight on the axle and we are on wet grass. The look I received from Dee was enough, no comments were needed.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained, I again hooked the jeep to the motor home placed the jeep in 4 wheel drive (pleaded for the wife to help, so help me she has this thing about tow trucks), and with a little coaxing we were back on the road.

After the trip, I dropped the main tank, the problem very simple to repair. The hose clamps are made of spring steel and over the years had rusted away, with an electric fuel pump in the tank, coupled with a rough road, the main fuel line simply slipped off. All fuel lines now have new SS clamps.

Rex and Dee


Morgan
The Beast
1986 Itasca


Posted By: SEEKER II on 01/12/05 03:12pm

91BOUNDER
754GAS
68000MILES

COMPLETE ELECTRICAL SHUTDOWN ,COACH AND ENGINE, WHILE SLOWING FOR TRAFFIC.
DEALER FOUND NOTHING WRONG .STARTED UP FOR HIM. BEEN DRIVING EVER SINCE.

MY GUESS --BAD COMMON GROUND .


Posted By: Chuckf1 on 01/12/05 06:50pm

Hi Badeye,
Great idea - as a computer consultant we/I can add this info to a database. I'd be glad to set one up.

you can find number and description of breakdowns by motorhome manufacturer, by year, by category (elect, water, mechanical, etc).
Also, cost of the repair and by whom.
Just a thought...
Let me know what you think ??


Chuck and Jeanne (Almost Full-timing)

2005 Georgie Boy CruiseMaster 3600DS
Tow: KarKaddy 460SS W/2004 Honda Accord
Current Location

FMCA, Passport, Thousand Trails, Resort Properties, Int'l

Live life like it's your last day on earth!



Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 01/16/05 02:49pm

Rex10093-

Great rendering of your story! But why are you paying your ERS premiums if you don't think you need the service? We've used our AAA service numerous times over the years for various maladies and it on one occasion got us out of a pretty hairy situation on a high-speed highway where I couldn't get off to the side. Of course my rig weighs 7 tons and I don't tow a 4X4, so I might have been tempted I reckon. But for Dee's sake and sanity... I mean you pay for the ERS so why not use it. I can attest, except for tiny ego bruises, it really doesn't hurt a bit.


Posted By: griffith on 01/18/05 09:24am

2001 Damon Challenger 335 Workhorse 8.1 15,000 miles
12-7-04 Left Texas T RV park on I-65 in Cornersville Tn. 35 miles south engine quits just like key turned off, coast to shoulder and know I have big problems. After 15 minutes try to start and bingo it starts running. Drive south to Decator Al to Race Track Gas station about 30 miles get 5 cans of dry gas and a tank of fuel thinking water in gas. Go to start at the gas pumps and will not start. Crank starter on and off for about 10 minutes and it starts. Jump back on I-65 drive 135 miles to about 30 miles south of Birmingham Al and bingo engine quits again. It is now 11am and I am really frustrated. But thinking I am lucky it did not quit while going thru Brimingham, Al with all that traffic. This time it quit for good and would not start. Called Prattville Al, RV, the closet Workhorse Service center to my location which is about 55 miles north of Prattville. RV service center said very busy but will get us in asap which might be a couple of days. They send 82 wrecker service in Parttville to get us. Wrecker arrives 1:30pm Big Peterbilt. Very professional Owner who is also the driver and has one assistant. Hook up motorhome in very heavy Semi traffic, motor home shakes everytime one goes buy. Assistant goes under motorhome to unhook drive shaft. Suddenly load bang of metal hitting concrete. I look under motorhome and assistant is in convulsions with blood coming from nose, mouth and ears and he is not saying a word. Owner runs over and is in a panic. Wife calls 911 on cell for ambulance as this does not look good. Pull assistant out with assistance of owner and he is unconsious and has a very obvious crushed skull at forehead above nose. 6 First responders arrive, followed by two ambulances, two state troopers and a county sheriffs dep. Amubulance medics say this is not good and call for Medivac Helicopter from University of Alabama Med Center in Birmingham. 3:30pm Troopers Block off all southbound lanes of I-65 chopper lands in middle of southbound lanes. Doctor on chopper also agrees this is not good and spends two hours working on victim. Traffic blocked all this time. 5:30pm Chopper leaves for Birmingham and traffic was backed up all the way to Birmingham. Wrecker tows us to Parttville, spend two days waiting. Third day mechanic has it fixed in an hour. Crank Position sensor failed. Cost $264 for towing(reimbursed by GMAC Ins) $178 for crank sensor and $600 for driveshaft repair (pinion yoke and universal) Assistant with crushed skull after two brain surgeries and three weeks in intensive care is going to live but will have to learn how to walk and talk all over again. He has a wife, 3 kids and no insurance nice guy too. Alabama put him on Medicade. 82 Wrecker great people, Prattville RV excellent service at a reasonable price.





Posted By: mcracer on 01/20/05 01:44pm

I hope this doesn't get lost in all the good posts you are getting because this is a GREAT story for yucks. I road raced motorcycles for years & 1 of the things you had to take for the race bike was a battery charger for between races. On the way home 1 weekend the alternator failed on my '93 class c Tioga. Found out the hard way when we tried to re-start after fueling & nothing. We started the gen set, plugged the battery charger in inside the mh, sat it on the dash & ran the cables out the window, under the hood & to the battery. Set it on the 50 amp charge position, started it & headed for the house. Just made sure we never got low enough on gas to run the gen set out & did over 800 miles like that. After dark we would just run with park lights & tell a truck on the cb why we were so close behind him with no lights. They were very understanding & lots of help. Changed the alternator when we got home & went racing the next weekend. You got to do what you got to do. Hope someone enjoys this story & maybe help someone else someday.

Kert.


Kert and Cindi Maul, Karter (Golden Retriver) & Ruby (Yorkie/Maltese)
'04 Itaska 40AD 330 H.P. C-7 Cat.
Toad '01 Yamaha Road Star Warrior.
mcracer@iwon.com


Posted By: davel1942 on 01/21/05 06:58pm

Coming thru Tucson I felt a fuel starvation problem. Dieing at 50 mph. Limpt it to a RV dealer who diden't have time, They referred me to Simmons 4x4 who replaced the in line fuel filter. Oddly the filter was supposed to have been replaced 2x in the last year. Seems like the other RV outfits did not know there is an in line as well as a filter at the carb. Ran great all way to Mn.


You keep do'in what yo're do'in
You keep gettin what you got! States in '05



Posted By: Tobie105 on 01/22/05 11:54am

good topic hope we get lots of good information


Cedar Creek Rv Owners Club <<-- Come join The fun.


Posted By: jimmyrain2000 on 01/23/05 01:55pm

Thanks to all who have posted their experiences on this topic. We have had an Allegro 31DA Gas Coach for the last 2 years and had our share of times (both good and not so good) with it. We have just upgraded to a new coach and hope we will not have too many items to post here for now. Happy RVing!



Jim & Jeni


2007 Monaco Dynasty Squire LE

2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara Toad
Good Sam Life Time & FMCA Members
If you do not ask, the answer will ALWAYS be no.

jimmyrain2000@gmail.com



Posted By: jimmyrain2000 on 01/23/05 02:31pm

WOW! Your accounts of RV ownership sound a lot like the experiences we had with our first year of owning class A coach. Many major system failures and headaches. I must commend Tiffin Motorhomes though for their first rate customer service. had it not been for that, I too would have been a nervous wreck.


Posted By: musicearlyadopter on 02/02/05 12:26pm

What a great story- I admire your ingenuity, and even more, the swank photos of "The Beast". It looks great.


Gregg, Sandy, & daughter Tori
'93 Gulfstream Friendship 38', Cummins 300 HP Diesel on a Spartan chassis.


Posted By: Janeshure on 02/03/05 09:15pm

Several problems. Bought 1992 newmar in San Fran. Has 460 ford motor with 67000 miles. 37.5' long, very nice motorhome as compared to my 1983 winnabago 27' brave. Took off for Ia with toyota in tow. 2 days earlier we drove to S.F. with car. Motorhome ran flawlessly all the way to Ia. Murphy struck at the 50 mile marker on I-80. Motor quit running no power. Coasted to an off ramp. Restarted motor would only barely run if gas held to floor. Since I was driving a ford a brite light came on in my mind, I thought why not get wife to use car and push motorhome to nearest farm house. She agreed, got in car the @#$$%^ battery is dead, because I had to leave key in ACC position so steering wheel would turn. DUH, realized should have unhook battery. I walk to motorhome and notice that each of the coach's batteries were 12 volt. Since I was driving a ford another lite bulb came on in my head. Why not pull one of the batteries and put it in the car. Car started fine, while engine was running hook up car battery to charge and reinstall coach battery. I gave her instructions as to what signals I would give her when I honk the horn. I got in motorhome and started motor which will barely run. I yank it into gear and honk horn and we start rolling. All was well untill I had to turn onto a dirt road to go into the farm house, the road was up hill, the motorhome stop, the wife gun the car spinning the right rear tire like crazy, tire was smoking, she let off the gas, I heard a bang, What the hell was that I ask, of course she didn't know. I open the hood and found she had thrown off the fan belt which took out the other 2 belts. By this time another lite bulb went on, I realize we needed help, did I mention it was july and almost 100 degrees, I walk to the farm house and lucky me there was someone home. The woman look in the phone book and found some numbers for me to call. I called the first number and lucky for me said they would send someone right out. I told them to bring a fan belt for the car which they didn't do. Anyway the guy hook up to my motorhome to lift it, except his front end went up instead. OOPS. Truck too small. We decided to get out a chain and he could finish pulling the motorhome in the yard. Afterward he took off to get us a fan belt so I could drive the car the 180 miles to home. Thank god I thought to take some tools with me. The wife was in near total meltdown in what was begining to look a panic attack, I finally had to grab her by the shoulders and tell her in the most calming and soothing voice I could muster under the conditions, I told her, dear, it was not going to help me one bit by being hysterical, it would be more help if she stays as quite as possible and hand me tools as I need them so we can get out of this problem. Another piecie of luck, she actually listen to me. We drove the car home, next day I called another place to get motorhome, he had the same problem with his truck rasing it's front end, this was after I told hold him what had happen the day earlier, I had told him he needed a big truck. Anyway he couldn't help, so I called a third shop and explain to them what had happened, this person knew just what was needed and got the motorhome. The next day he called me and told me what the problem was, I thought it was a bad ignition system, after all it was hot weather. Murphy isn't done with me yet, The cat converter had plugged up and would not let the motor run, it would cost $600 for a new cat, I tried to talk him into just putting a piecie of pipe in and leave the @#$%^ cat off, he said no can do because of the @#$%^ government enviromental wackos. Following Fri he called and said motorhome is fit to run again, after I give him $1200 of my hard earn money. I drove 180 miles back the next day, hook up the car, drove motorhome to it's new home.

The next time we decided to go somewhere it was christmas 04. Wife and I and her relatives who came from russia, did I mention she is from russia, we decided to go to L.A. by way of las vegas. We get to the heritage museum in western Nebraska, I notice the motorhome was leaning on its left rear. I thought maybe it was parked in a hole where I park after all the parking lot was unlevel gravel. Next day we stop in colorado for gas, I thought damn this motorhome is leaning more, but dismiss it as the ground wasn't really level there either. Did I mention I was having electrical problems with AC outlets on the slide. We had an elcetric heater plug into the ac outlet on the slide. Wife plug in a hair dryer and blew out the electric ac. I thought no problem I will just reset the breakers, murphy again strikes, still does not work, tried reseting the GFCI breakers, still no luck. I still have this problem as I write this but there is too much cold and snow to bother with it now. Anyway back to the trip to L.A. We finally get to Las vegas and we decided to stop at circus circus campground. By this time the motorhome was really leaning on the left rear and when driving over bumps on the road I would hear scrapping noises. By this time another lite comes on, after all I was driving a ford chassis wasn't I, I HAVE A PROBLEM. I take it to an RV service shop to see what the problem was, they found that the mor ryde rear suspension was going out. There is 4 rubber pads which looks like big engine mounts which were tearing apart. Guess what, they couldn't handle this problem, so they sent me to another shop, which sent me to a truck shop, in the city of las vegas no less, and I don't know the city. I luck out this time and the truck shop knew exactly where I should go which was only 3 miles from where I was camped at. They gave me the phone # and had me to call this shop right there. I told him what the problem was, and he says "OH YES, YOU HAVE THE MOR RYDE SYSTEM", I say the what, and just what is that. By this time it is late afternoon, he says to bring it in 1st. thing in the morning and he would take a look. Next morning I, not so brite eyed and bushy tail, gets there, He says "yep" and walks to the phone and calls Indiana for the parts and has them to overnite the parts to him. A little history, this guy has done so many of these @#$%^ mor ryde systems he is on a first name basis with the guy in indiana. After he is done talking to the guy he gives me an estimate on the damage. The price was to be in the mid $900 range and it turn out to be $963. He said come back brite and early the next day and his crew would get right on it, and he promised it would be done before quitting time which it was. I was glad I pulled my car so we had a way to get around while it was being worked on. After we got the motorhome we continued on our trip, I notice another potential problem. The oil pressure is slow to come up when cold, by cold it is around freezing or lower. When the engine is warm, it seems to be ok. I don't know if the previous owner put too heavy oil in or if the sending unit is bad or an inpending oil pump failure. I will look at it when it gets warmer and the snow is gone. I hate these @#$%^ iowa winters.

So far I am batting a 100% rating, two big trips and two major problems and I have only had it since july. I learn more things about mor ryde than I care to know, I do not have a good opinion of mor ryde either. The only reason I haven't decided to sell it is because it is in good condition inside and we practically stole it for a song.

Will

janeshure@yahoo.com

* This post was edited 02/04/05 04:44am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: mustangman on 02/04/05 12:08pm

there was a recall 94b37 regarding your catalytic,for that year91-92
you could of had it replaced for free call 1800-4443311 ,maybe ford will reimburse you,,,not knowing what viscosity oil you have could be damaging your 460,don't be stupid and change it,,now you should worry about your fuel pump going bad,there was problems with them,also try to get some headers,problems with 460 exhaust bolts,,,,good luck,you have a good motor baby it,thanks for your post


Posted By: Janeshure on 02/04/05 03:31pm

I wasn't aware of any recall at the time. I had own this motorhome a grand total of 3 days when the converter pluged on me. I will give the # a call but to be truthfull I really don't expect much to come of it. As for the oil the motorhome has been sitting not moving, I am still a working stiff, Too old for a paper route, too young for social security, and too damn tired to have an affair. It has been sitting ever since I parked it in December, I don't intend to start it untill the weather warms up a good bit. As for the exhaust, it has the Banks power pack system on it which I beleive already has headers. Yes I am comcern about the fuel pump now that I have heard about it, I look through the service records the owner gave me, I do not recall the fuel pump ever being replaced. Another ticking time bomb I see. So far this ford chassis is living up to its name "fix or repair daily". You would think after the terrible beating ford took in the 70s and 80s with shoddy production they would have gotten their act together in the 90s.


Posted By: map40 on 02/07/05 05:47pm

Until what year was the recall and the fuel pump problem? I got a 1997 F53 chassis with a 460 also. What about the exaust mainfold bolts? Where can I get more information on this?


2007 Majestic 28A
Life rocks when your home rolls


Posted By: NorthBound on 02/09/05 06:03pm

1999 Gulfstream
47,000 miles
450 Cummins

3 weeks before our maiden voyage 2/7/05 I go out and start up the coach. before I realize whats happening I burn off the alternator belt. I figure we just have a hot spot and it needs to be spun. So i loosen it up with a ratchet and replace the belt. Today I go out and crank her up to get get some new tires on the back (after reading some tire posts on this board I realized my rear tires are 7 years old and not in sooo good of shape)and a bearing lets go and man does it make an awful racket. So of to the reman shop we go.

Just glad it happened now and not on the road. But it definately made me understand why people carry extra belts and tools.


Posted By: tjtheoneway on 02/11/05 12:58pm

1998 holiday rambler cummins 275 isb diesel pusher. started to lose power goin down the road. truck driver behind says you are really smokin back here! let off and it stops smokin and gains power up to a certain point,half way down on foot feed its alwright,anymore and it starts to lose power and smoke. call son which is comin from las vegas in his semi, imheadin to lv so we meet in mcgill and we change the filters ALLWAYS WITH A DIESEL CARRY EXTRA FUEL AND OIL FILTERS AND IF YOU CAN GET AN EXTRA GOVENOR FOR YOUR AIR COMPRESSOR BETTER YET. ANYWAY TOW A TRAILER FULL OF TOOLS,EXTRA ENGINE,no just kiddin but it shore helps


Posted By: philepler on 02/11/05 01:59pm

TO: Lil Truckr
Senior Member
North Fort Myers, FL. USA

Re: complete electrical shut down

It happened last spring to us, with our, then 2000 Pace Arrow Vision. The Rv would just stop dead, no electricl power. First check of battery connection looked good, Note these were the original OEM batterys. RV would then restart after minutes or hours. We had it hauled to an electrician, who couldn't find a problem. Took it to a Ford dealer after the third occurance, he thought he found a loose connection. After the fourth occurance, I changed the Chassis battery and had no further problems. I had some suspicion that there was likely a broken plate/terminal inside the battery, as one of the terminals had some slight side to side movement. The problem gave no warning, either instrumentation or performance. Possible a combination of a battery beyond its normal service life and or an internal failure, that was exacerbated by a heavy jolt or vibration.

Have someone check the battery under load to see if that is the cause. Hope it's as simple as that

Phil

* This post was edited 02/11/05 02:06pm by philepler *


2005 Winnebago Journey 32T
2005 Honda CR-V EX
Henderson, NV

Make a Fast Friend, Adopt a Racing Greyhound





Posted By: Friday's on 02/27/05 08:05pm

Kudos and a Request:
philepler on Page 32 did a great job referring to name (lil trucker) and message heading (Complete Electrical Shutdown) he was responding to!

But, unfortunately, most people do not do it that way. For those of us who follow this thread, not necessarily on a daily basis, it is very difficult to figure out which message you are responding to if you do not mention Name and Caption.

Thank you in advance!


Michael & Susan

'06 Winnebago View 23H
'05 HR Neptune 34SBD
'96 Fleetwood Flair 22D


Posted By: UtahEd on 02/27/05 10:28pm

'77 Winnebago Brave, Dodge 440 engine
A727 transmission
Refused to start.

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I were in Nevada (Wendover). We had been there two days. I started the Whiny Beggar every morning, because she was new (to us), and I didn't know just how good the inverter/converter system was. No problems. She started up.

When we were ready to leave, I pulled up to the office to pick up a minor cosmetic part. When I came back, she refused to start. So, I went back in the store and purchased a can of starting fluid. After half a can, she finally started.

We wended our way across I-80 to Salt Lake City. No problems (other than the winds I was fighting). The next morning, she started up with no problem.

We finally made it home (Ogden, UT), and used her a time or two more, but with some problem in getting her started. The starter would groan, but eventually kick her.

Eventually, it turned out that the problem was the starter motor. The one in her was original. (We had to take it out with a hammer. Once the bolts were out, the motor wouldn't even budge.)

In the meantime, I had replaced the starter relay, the voltage regulator, and various sundry other parts.

What fooled me is that she WOULD start on occasion. Just sometimes she wouldn't, and it didn't seem to matter what the temperture was, the humidity, etc.


EdOld Ed Brady


Posted By: ted stiles on 03/03/05 05:24am

I had 9 failures just like yours.

No doubt you have found the problem.

Mine was a 150 smp 12 volt breaker attached to the frame back after near the engine/rear axle.

Let me know, if you can, what happened with yours. Oh yes, mine was intermittent and I could tell it was back inline by the four way flashers coming on (I was outside).

Cheers


Ted Stiles 2003 37' Coachmen Cross Counrty 5.9 cummings, 260 hp, Allison 5 spd 97 Saturn toad[b]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Winnebago Warrior on 03/03/05 01:02pm

Last year I had my first breakdown resulting in a tow to Poulsbo RV in the Seattle area. My owners manual said to grease the wheel bearings every year or 12,000 miles. Well shame on me but I "justified" skipping the maintenance because I had only tallied 12,000 over the past 4 years combined. It was on my radar for later that year. So anyway, there I am in Des Moines on a sunday afternoon with the drivers side wheel bearing smoking while I ponder my fate in a mall parking lot. My own fault, no question.


When you leave this earth the only things you will take with you are those things you've given away.


Posted By: aldenwebb on 03/13/05 10:33am

I have a 1996 Allegro Bus with a Cat Engine,Allison Trans.and Freightliner chassis.
Yesterday, while on a family outing, after about an hour of normal driving there was a loud bang in the rear and immediately the engine temperature started rising. I exited at the next interstate exit and stopped in a safe place.
The engine fan belt had broken. Luckily I had a fan belt on board and "The Good Sam" service mechanic had us up and running in about two hours from breakdown to back on the road.
Lessons relearned: Carry extra belts with you and it helps to have emergency service insurance. Also, scan your instrument panel at reguler short intervals.


'96 Allegro Bus
1 wife
4 grandkids
0 dogs and cats



Posted By: noRVtoheaven on 03/21/05 12:36am

Quote:

Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.

Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.

All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.

I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.

I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.


Had a problem something like yours only coach would not start after fueling. Towed, started at repair shop, they could not locate problem. another time one year later same problem but started after setting. two years later it became more frequent. Cummins west finally got it to duplicate problem. Was a wiring connection where wire was short of normal causing a connection that would pull away and not make contact. They lenghend wire and no problem since. I would bet on a connection that had no contact temporarily and caused your problem.


VERITAS PRAEVALEBIT


Posted By: noRVtoheaven on 03/21/05 12:56am

Quote:

Date of incident May, 2003
RV particulars: 2000 Country Coach 40'   
Driveline Cummins ISC 330, Allison 4000   
Miles:11,000
Break Down Description: Engine Quit

Symptoms: Everything stopped, all gauges went to zero, no warning lights, power steering, all indications of ignition key being turned off.

   Effect: Fortunately we were on a private road to our church parking lot. We were going only about 10MPH so we pulled over without incident. Could have been dicey anywhere else.

   Cause: This was the first time we had driven the MH with cats on board. Being new to this environment, the cats hid in the bedroom closet and only came out when things were quiet. When I started up the engine and started moving, they stayed in the closet until we went over the first speed bump on the road to our church. This, along with clothes falling on them and cans crashing out of the pantry, caused them to race to the front of the MH and away from the noise. One cat, an 18 lb Main Coon, had previously discovered a safe place under the dash to hide to which she made a beeline. In the confusion and turmoil of the speed bump, neither of us knew she had gone there, but in her dash to safety, she pulled the wire harness away from the ignition switch.

   Outcome: After checking out the chassis battery and other electrical connections that might have been ignition related, the absence of any wires attached to the ignition switch was discovered. Reconnecting the harness fixed the problem. After an additional search, cat was found hiding in the vacant area behind passenger side dash panel.

Solution: 1) Safety wired harness to ignition switch, 2) cardboarded and duct taped underside of dash to prevent cat entry, 3) put cats in cage in dingy when underway.

Postscript: As cats became accustomed to travel, they now ride in the motorhome, unsupervised on the bed, most of the time sleeping while underway. The engine now seems to have a calming effect.

Oh yeah, and I now drive very slowly over speed bunps.


Cats are not compatable with your Cummins engine only a CAT engine. You shoukd have known better.


Posted By: jd7703 on 03/27/05 07:01pm

I was north bound from El Dorado, Ks, made about 35 miles and my wife smelled fuel. The number 5 fuel injector line on my 1999 275 cummins, split, resulting in a delay of at least 3 days, happened on Easter weekend, cannot order part until Monday. Is this a common occurance of fuel injector lines splitting. Drove trucks in the oil fields in the 70's never had this kind of problem.

John & Susan Dudley
Andy, the English Springer Spaniel
1999 Coachmen SportsCoach
275 Cummins, 6 speed Allison
Master Tow dolly, with surge brakes


Posted By: mrwebman on 03/29/05 06:20pm

1993 Gulfstream Tourmaster
(39 foot Class A Diesel Pusher)
Spartan Chassis, 300hp Cummins, Allison 5 speed

The engine just died while driving. Felt like someone turned the key off. Was able to pull over on the side of the road where I inspected the ignition switch and battery compartment area.

After about 5 minutes I got back in and it cranked up like nothing had happened. I didn't like the fact that it 'fixed' itself so I done a thorough inspection of the front electrical compartment being sure to touch every item in the compartment.

I found out that the Run Relay was extremely hot. I continued on home, not using dash A/C or headlights which let the relay cool somewhat. The next day I replaced the relay with a new one from NAPA. Never had the problem since. The relay looks similar to the old Ford starter relays but it's designed for continuous use - buy the correct replacement. I now carry spares, not only this relay but also one of every type of circuit breaker and relay (there are dozens).

Cheers,
Dennis


Posted By: billyboy on 03/30/05 04:37am

98 454 vortec, 31k miles, august, 2004, 90 degree day 3pm afternnon,prince george, british columbia, engine bogging down at 50 mph, wouldn't excelerate, ran of in cooler weather, unusal whinning sound coming from rear end of mh,pulled tank and replaced fuel pump, then ran ok.


08 33 windsport 22k towing 06 saturn ion


Posted By: Smokyjoe on 03/30/05 05:07am

testing


Smoky's Den
2001 KSO1 Travel Supreme
PT Cruiser Toad
Wheaton Terrier dog



Posted By: FLMOHOMER on 04/02/05 08:00pm

03, Fleetwood Discovery, Freightliner chassis, Cat 330HP. On trip from Florida to Arizona, I was less han 100 miles from home when the low batery light came on. I pulled over as soon as I could and wedged a tooth pick in the emergency start switch. This tied the house batteries [4 six volt] to the chassis system and the light went off. I stopped later at a large parking lot and checked the alternator belt and it was OK. I decided to continue the trip using the house batteries to furnish electrical power. When I got the low battery light again, after running several hours at night, I started the generator and continued the trip. We completed the roundtrip of over 4,000 miles by using this method. We would charge our batteries in the campgound each night and only run the generator when both battery banks got low. Once I almost waited to long to start the generator and was barely able to get it to start on the low battery. I saw in previous posts that others had run home on generator. I was able to keep the generator off for the majority of trip by using the emergency start feature. After we finished our trip, we returned the coach to our dealer and had the alternator replace under warranty since it had only 11,000 miles when it failed. I had called Fleetwood to report the failure before I reached 12,000 miles and they stated that I could have the work done under warranty when we returned to Florida. Doug Ray

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


MOHOMER
2003 DISCOVERY 38T
2003 TRACKER


Posted By: map40 on 04/03/05 08:08am

[quote=FLMOHOMER]03, Fleetwood Discovery, Freightliner chassis, Cat 330HP. On trip from Florida to Arizona, I was less han 100 miles from home when the low batery light came on. I pulled over as soon as I could and wedged a tooth pick in the emergency start switch. This tied the house batteries [4 six volt] to the chassis system and the light went off. I stopped later at a large parking lot and checked the alternator belt and it was OK. I decided to continue the trip using the house batteries to furnish electrical power. When I got the low battery light again, after running several hours at night, I started the generator and continued the trip. We completed the roundtrip of over 4,000 miles by using this method. We would charge our batteries in the campgound each night and only run the generator when both battery banks got low. Once I almost waited to long to start the generator and was barely able to get it to start on the low battery. I saw in previous posts that others had run home on generator. I was able to keep the generator off for the majority of trip by using the emergency start feature. After we finished our trip, we returned the coach to our dealer and had the alternator replace under warranty since it had only 11,000 miles when it failed. I had called Fleetwood to report the failure before I reached 12,000 miles and they stated that I could have the work done under warranty when we returned to Florida. Doug Ray[/quote] I always wondered if this could be done (use the emergency switch to provide power to the chassis in an alternator failiure). Any other side effects? I would agree that you could run the batteries down, but running the generator would not sacrifice them that much, right?

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: FLMOHOMER on 04/03/05 06:49pm

MAP40,
Using the Emergency start switch to tie the two battery systems together did not cause any other damage or problems. The house batteries did not suffer any unusual damage since as soon as I got the low battery light on the dash, I would start the generator to re-charge, maintain the batteries. This also charged the chassis batteries since they were still tied to the coach betteries. Also the batteries did not fully discharge since the warning light comes on when the voltage drops a small amount. I am not sure what the level is, but it is still high to start the generator or even the engine if needed within about 30 minutes of first seeing it come on.

Doug


Posted By: jimraysr on 04/03/05 10:56pm

By replacing the emergency start solenoid wt. a battery separator (Shure Power, Inc., 100 amp, $75) makes the whole situation much easier in such a failure and makes every day operation and storage easier. The separator closes when the voltage raises to 13.1 volts on either the chassis or house side, thus regardless of the charging source, all batteries are charged.

When in storage and connected to shore power all seven of our batteries are maintained by the three stage converter/charger.

When dry camping, running the generator, likewise will charge all batteries.

When on the road, again all are charged without the voltage drop normally introduced by the isolator.

Wt. the alternator out, you would still have to do as you did in order to back feed the chassis when the generator was not running.

Jim

* This post was edited 04/03/05 11:13pm by jimraysr *


Posted By: didi on 04/04/05 06:12pm

Driveline: Workhorse Custom Chassis, 340 HP
Miles: ll,640.
Year: 2003 Airsteam Land Yacht
Breakdown Description: pull over for gas fill up, shut off engine
Symptons: never restarted, no power to key or instruments
Effect and Cause: to much of a amp load on the harness to the key. Workhorse overnighted the ignition switch kit
Outcome: This was a trip to a ill family member in Indiana, a 12 hour trip. With this breakdown it took me three days to arrive at our distination.


Posted By: JerryKelly on 04/04/05 08:08pm

Freightliner XC Chassis, Cummins 350 ISC

Problems: Exhaust brake not working, coach surging at 66 - 70 mph.
Diagnosis: Exhaust brake not recieving power signal from the instrument panel. Surging was caused by fuel distributor in fuel pump.

The exhaust brake was diagnosed and fixed on the 2nd day. Fuel pump problem was suspected as the cause of the surging, but the Freightliner dealer was told to first diagnose the problem using Freighliner or Cummins software. It took 2 days to load the diagnostic software onto their laptop. Then Cummins took 2 more days to authorize the Freightliner dealer to work on the Cummins engine. Cummins would not ship the part until the authorization was complete (day 4). This was all due to a Cummins shop down the street. Cummins protects the turf of Cummins dealers. Freightliner could not expedite the process. Due to my Freightliner warranty, I could not go to Cummins first unless I was willing to cover the diagnostic costs in the event the surging problem was not a cummins problem. I was not told about the Cummins issue until day 4. My engine brake repair was a freightliner issue, not cummins. I got my coach back at 5:00 pm on day 5. Just in time to drive back home.


Jerry & Kelly[/blue] Cleveland, OH[blue][/blue] 2006 Newmar Mountain Aire 4304

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.



Posted By: mustangman on 04/05/05 02:28pm

JerryKelly wrote:

Freightliner XC Chassis, Cummins 350 ISC

Problems: Exhaust brake not working, coach surging at 66 - 70 mph.
Diagnosis: Exhaust brake not recieving power signal from the instrument panel. Surging was caused by fuel distributor in fuel pump.

The exhaust brake was diagnosed and fixed on the 2nd day. Fuel pump problem was suspected as the cause of the surging, but the Freightliner dealer was told to first diagnose the problem using Freighliner or Cummins software. It took 2 days to load the diagnostic software onto their laptop. Then Cummins took 2 more days to authorize the Freightliner dealer to work on the Cummins engine. Cummins would not ship the part until the authorization was complete (day 4). This was all due to a Cummins shop down the street. Cummins protects the turf of Cummins dealers. Freightliner could not expedite the process. Due to my Freightliner warranty, I could not go to Cummins first unless I was willing to cover the diagnostic costs in the event the surging problem was not a cummins problem. I was not told about the Cummins issue until day 4. My engine brake repair was a freightliner issue, not cummins. I got my coach back at 5:00 pm on day 5. Just in time to drive back home.



sounds like a lot of Cummins breakdowns,alot of diesel breakdowns,i can't work on them wish i knew how,thats why i trust my 460 to death ,it won't let me down knock on wood,,,want to learn diesel have to hit some books,,thanks for posting everyone,,good forum topic


Posted By: daybreak 2001 on 04/09/05 08:32am

we had a ignition switch problem .we couldn't start the MH. after 3hrs and a towing to a garage we were on our way to get back home.






Posted By: Hyrolr on 04/09/05 08:44am

Badeye:
This is a great thread. Hope you haven't bitten off more than you can chew, though.
Thanks,
...........................Tim

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse Vortec 7.4
Miles: 12,000
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: Three of four bolts (there are two on each side) holding the sway bar to the A frames broke. Were supposed to be grade 8 according to the markings. I called Workhorse and they said they had never heard of the problem. We have never abused the coach and it's never been off-road (use the four wheeler for that).

Symptoms: Sloppy driving, diving in corners

Effect: Made my wife nervous; then she made me nervous

Cause: Still unknown

Outcome: Out of warranty, so I talked to my neighbor (he owns a precision machine shop). He told me that they could have been foreign bolts and not really up to grade 8 standards. He gave me some new, all-american made grade 10's. I installed them and haven't had a problem since.

* This post was edited 04/10/05 04:43pm by Hyrolr *


Tim and Christine

In loving memory of:
Greta the totally spoiled Lab
and family's best travel companion
(March 1993-July 2005)

2000 Itasca Suncruiser
2002 Chevy Trailblazer toad w/Brakebuddy

........."Life is a Highway"


Posted By: jakcheese on 04/11/05 09:48am

Re: bolt failure...we have 2002 Itasca 30' Sunrise. We have complained about, but replaced same bolts ourselves with other than "grade 8" from Workhorse...Same scenario, no off-roading etc. The bolts we installed have so far been fine!
While we are talking about Workhorse...ours is in the driveway with the 2nd melted ignition switch. We are 4 months out of factory warranty, but had it replaced 7/5/04 in warranty. I am awaiting a call from the dealer to see if Workhorse will step up and provide "updated" switch w/relay. Is there anything else I should do?
Jakcheese


Jackcheese and Motlah
2006 Dolphin LX 6320 W22 Workhorse chassis


Posted By: windman2 on 04/13/05 11:18pm

05 Newmar KSDP
Traveling southern Illinois on 57 where it changes to 24, I thought you guys need to spend some money fixing these roads. Drove for another 10 miles until I could'nt take it anymore. Pulled over to take a look and found my mud flap on the ground. After further review I realized I had no air in my rear end, and a threaded rod, with no nut dangled from underneath the center of the rear end. Spartan techs told me to slip it into a plate and I'd be good to go. Knowing better, I went to the closest hardware store, picked up a 11 cent lock nut and 2 washers and permanently fixed it. By the way, the rod had already come out of the bracket by the time I got to the hardware store, go figure.


Posted By: FredC on 04/20/05 06:05pm

We recently completed a trip from Cincinnati to Harlingen, TX where we spend almost six weeks. We then went to Big Bend National Park for a few days and then started out on I10 for Escondido, CA. We were between Fort Stockton, TX and El Paso when we had a blow out of the inside dual on the passenger side.

Good Sam had a tire guy to us in forty five minutes, which I think is pretty remarkable. Even though we had a spare, it was unusable because of its position under the RV and uncovered. So, it was struck by everything passing under the RV. LESSON: If you have a spare, and it is under the RV, cover it with something to protect it.

As a result of the spare not being good, the tire guy drove 75 miles to El Paso to pick up a new tire. Naturally, Good Sam would only pay for the cost of the guy to get us off the road. It was almost 10:00 PM when tire was finally mounted and put on the RV. We spent the night in a dirt field behind a Mexican Restaurant. The next day, we drive to Las Cruces, NM and stayed in a campground/RV repair shop named RV DOC. This shop kindly performed temporary repairs quickly so we could get back on the road.

These tires were only four and a half years old, covered when parked, inflation checked every other day when traveling, and inflated to the proper pressure. It is just one of those mysterious that happen on occasion. I did,however, buy five more tires just for the satisfaction of safety. They were Michelin XRV's 235/80/22.5.

THEN, while pulling from a fuel stop in Alpine, CA the "low water" light came on then went out. I added a little coolant, but when in Las Vegas, I noticed a drip on the parking pad. A visit was paid to the Freight Liner Oasis there and a broken radiator was found. That visit cost an extra three days and two nights in a hotel , plus a substantial repair bill.

However in seven years of RV'ing, this was our first real trouble on the road. We are home now, and by the way, I don't want to give the RV away anymore.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/23/05 01:51pm

For everyone with a Dodge gasoline, especially older models:

Carry a spare ballast resistor. Most are rectangular white ceramic, roughly 1" wide and 4" to 5" long, with two electrical connectors and a single mounting screw. Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, ballast resistors are not grounded and may be mounted on nonconducting material such as plastic.

The ballast resistor reduces voltage to the coil, thereby increasing sparkplug life. The starting circuit bypasses the ballast resistor, resulting in a hotter spark when starting.

Symptoms of a bad ballast resistor: Your vehicle fires while you hold the key in the start position (because of the bypass) and dies as soon as you let go of the key (because in the run position, current is supplied to the coil through the ballast resistor).

I haven't bought one in a while but I seem to recall that my spares were less than $20.

As an emergency fix, you can connect the two electrical leads together but doing so will shorten the life of your sparkplugs and other ignition components.

I first encountered this problem on my '77 Dodge B200 van, purchased new and well maintained. My 1970 Explorer motorhome, on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis, also has a ballast resistor but hasn't needed a new one yet.

The bad ballast resistor kept my van from going anywhere and frustrated me because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. (I'm a fairly good mechanic with extensive knowledge of the electrical systems in older vehicles - I can draw most of the typical wiring diagrams from memory.) A friend suggested I check the ballast resistor, saving me the expense of a tow. (I bought him a case of his favorite beer in thanks.)

I've heard of enough similar experiences from other people to convince me to always carry a spare. I haven't heard of any going out while the vehicle is moving although I imagine it's possible. All of the cases I've heard of showed up while trying to start the vehicle, leading me to believe a current spike during shutdown or starting cause the ballast resistor to fail.

Hope this helps someone.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis ... no engine or tranny (yet)



Posted By: CrabbyCamper on 04/24/05 11:27am

RV particulars: 1997 Fleetwood Bounder 28T
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 454
Miles: 35,000
Year: 2004

Break Down Description / Symptoms: Going up the hill out of Yreka CA the engine started making this sound like air was popping out of the cylinder with each stroke. Then there was a pop and it sounded a lot louder.

Effect: I pulled over to the side and called for assistance.

Cause: One of the spark plugs had come loose and popped out.

Outcome: It didn’t take the threads with it, so they put a new sparkplug in and I was back on the road.


Posted By: IIAFFI on 04/24/05 06:24pm

Thursday, April 14, 2005 I took my '95 Bounder to our mechanic and asked him to change all the belts on the motor (Chev 454) "I am headed to Vegas thru the desert next week and don't want any surprises". Done.
April 17, 2005 while driving to Vegas from Los Angeles on I15 at Yermo, no power steering, no alternator voltage, etc) pulled off the freeway and (SURPRISE!) found the alternator belt broken. $391 to tow it to Barstow, $120 to replace the belt and a seven hour delay in my trip to Las Vegas -- it was Sunday afernoon and I figure I was lucky to get it fixed even if it did take 7 hours.
I'm contemplating doing NO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FROM NOW ON.




"I Do Not Intend To TipToe Through Life
Only To Arrive Safely At My Death"




Posted By: Billdh435 on 04/24/05 08:44pm

I guess the old saying was true in this case; if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


Posted By: buchrob on 04/25/05 03:24pm

RV particulars: Safari 38 foot 1996
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat 3126B / Allison 6
Miles: 61800
Year: 1996
Break Down Description: High-pressure injector pump blew an oil system O-ring.
Symptoms: Engine stopped dead by control computer after spraying 19 qts of oil out the back radiator over a leisurely few hours.
Effect: Dead in the water, but no major damage.
Cause: A 29-cent piece of round rubber went bad, causing $3200 worth of expensive diagnostic and preventative work.
Outcome: Back in service, but now paranoid about oil and other fluid levels.


'99 Glendale Royal Expedition 24' Class C
2003 Subaru WRX wagon as toad.



Posted By: metalmangler on 04/25/05 04:18pm

IIAFFI wrote:

Thursday, April 14, 2005 I took my '95 Bounder to our mechanic and asked him to change all the belts on the motor (Chev 454) "I am headed to Vegas thru the desert next week and don't want any surprises". Done.
April 17, 2005 while driving to Vegas from Los Angeles on I15 at Yermo, no power steering, no alternator voltage, etc) pulled off the freeway and (SURPRISE!) found the alternator belt broken. $391 to tow it to Barstow, $120 to replace the belt and a seven hour delay in my trip to Las Vegas -- it was Sunday afernoon and I figure I was lucky to get it fixed even if it did take 7 hours.
I'm contemplating doing NO PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FROM NOW ON.


I noticed you've already been told "if it ain't broke--don't fix it." I respectfully beg to differ. To my untrained ear this sounds more like a case of "you get what you INspect--not what you EXpect."

I have read it opined here (by many) that doing the belts on a 454 in a MH isn't an entry-level job. That may be. But, it's obviously a job there's a way to do *right* and several ways to do wrong (while taking somebody's money for it anyway). Might it pay you to acquire the proper tools and educate yourself how to do this one right, yourself? I wish you success in straightening it out--tools in hand or otherwise.


Posted By: Fishreed on 04/25/05 09:58pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

For everyone with a Dodge gasoline, especially older models:

Carry a spare ballast resistor. Most are rectangular white ceramic, roughly 1" wide and 4" to 5" long, with two electrical connectors and a single mounting screw. Unlike voltage regulators and starter relays, ballast resistors are not grounded and may be mounted on nonconducting material such as plastic.

The ballast resistor reduces voltage to the coil, thereby increasing sparkplug life. The starting circuit bypasses the ballast resistor, resulting in a hotter spark when starting.

Symptoms of a bad ballast resistor: Your vehicle fires while you hold the key in the start position (because of the bypass) and dies as soon as you let go of the key (because in the run position, current is supplied to the coil through the ballast resistor).

I haven't bought one in a while but I seem to recall that my spares were less than $20.

As an emergency fix, you can connect the two electrical leads together but doing so will shorten the life of your sparkplugs and other ignition components.

I first encountered this problem on my '77 Dodge B200 van, purchased new and well maintained. My 1970 Explorer motorhome, on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis, also has a ballast resistor but hasn't needed a new one yet.

The bad ballast resistor kept my van from going anywhere and frustrated me because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. (I'm a fairly good mechanic with extensive knowledge of the electrical systems in older vehicles - I can draw most of the typical wiring diagrams from memory.) A friend suggested I check the ballast resistor, saving me the expense of a tow. (I bought him a case of his favorite beer in thanks.)

I've heard of enough similar experiences from other people to convince me to always carry a spare. I haven't heard of any going out while the vehicle is moving although I imagine it's possible. All of the cases I've heard of showed up while trying to start the vehicle, leading me to believe a current spike during shutdown or starting cause the ballast resistor to fail.

Hope this helps someone.


Those new platinium plugs can take a lot of juice. Have you tried a new set of Bosch's plus 4 platiniums?


TravelMaster 1986 23ft, Chevy G30 5.7 TH400 Tranny. 350M V-8 295hp and 360 ft lbs torque, Mobil One Synthetic, Tru-Cool Tranny(4490) and Engine Coolers (M7B), Bilsteins shocks on the front. Monroe 555 HDs on the rear.


Posted By: CA Traveler on 04/29/05 10:47am

RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 330 Cummins 04 Pegagus Engine, Allison 3000
Miles: 12,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Lost all power on a downgrade, black smoke pouring out of exhaust. Idle OK. Pulled over to side and limped 2 miles to rest stop. Decided it was the Pacbrake and wired the air cylinder open. After this I learned that I could just turn off the Pacbrake and proceed.
Symptoms: Power loss and black smoke
Effect: Safety issue as the first time it happened in heavy Interstate traffic with almost no shoulder.
Cause: The cause is the Pacbrake, either the physical Pacbrake itself or the electronics that controls the Pacbrake or possibly the air solenoid (Pacbrake said this was unlikely).
Outcome: Intermittent problem that Cummins could not find (just tested the Pacbrake). It failed 3 more times in the next 600 miles. Then I added temporary wiring and a voltmeter to isolate to an electronic failure or the air solenoid/Pacbrake and it has not failed in the last 500 miles since adding the voltmeter. Incidentally this is not a Cummins part or warranty item. Monaco installed this part with the full cooperation and agreement of Cummins and Allison but it is a Monaco warranty item.

I also learned that the Cummins Medford, OR shop is not trained to test the Pacbrake. They failed to do a major but very easy test, namely disconnect the air cylinder and physically move the butterfly valve to check for binding. They also billed Monaco for almost 3 hours for a 15 minute test. OK, I'd give them a hour as I repeated all of their tests in under a hour at home.

* This post was edited 04/29/05 10:57am by CA Traveler *


2009 Holiday Rambler 42 Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
2004 Honda CR-V

Bob



Posted By: mrwebman on 04/29/05 08:01pm

RV particulars: Gulf Stream Tourmaster
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 300HP Cummins, Allison MD3060
Chassis: Spartan
Miles: 49,000
Year: 1993
Break Down Description: Allison electronic shifter control went blank and the engine would not restart after being shut off.
Symptoms: Self-shifted into neutral when going down the road then the shifter's digital display went blank
Effect: Stranded on the side of Interstate 95 in extremely heavy traffic causing $950 tow job and parts replacement that extended warranty company would NOT pay for.
Cause: The transmission Electronic Control Unit (ECU) became intermittent. It was mostly blank but would occasionally flash. The ECU is powered by dedicated positive and negative wires all the way back to the battery. Those wires were checked, batteries were changed (long shot), the ignition switch was changed (another long shot), the two fuses in the Vehicle Interface Module (VIM) were checked.

I found a place on the internet called TKT Sales and called them. The owner, Ted Keating, was extremely helpful - walking me through checks on the ECU with my voltmeter. Because battery voltage and ignition voltage were present right at the ECU but yet the ECU was blank, I ordered a used ECU from him and it fixed the problem. It cost me $900 versus the $2500 plus $500 programming fee that a local shop wanted for a new one.

If you have an Allison transmission be sure to write this info down now in case you need them beside the road somewhere like I did. His e-mail address is ted@tktsales.com or you can contact him through his website at http://tktsales.com. Tel: (267)716-7332.

And by the way, I have nothing to do with TKT Sale except being a happy customer!

Please note that if you have extended warranty coverage through Interstate StarRV, then you basically have no coverage. They say they would cover my transmission but they will not cover the ECU. They cover the wiring harness but not the ECU. Their contract is worded such that there's probably no way they'll have to pay me for anything.

I also learned something else. If you have a Class A diesel pusher and you have a chassis problem it's almost impossible to get assistance in many places throughout the country. Those RV service centers that you see everywhere will NOT be able to help you - they work on toilets and window shades, etc. And, even if you have an extended warranty, you had better keep about $5,000 or more on reserve for emergency repairs! Our last trip cost us a little over $3700 in repairs, parts, and towing expenses alone!

Cheers,
Dennis

* This post was edited 05/04/05 12:28pm by mrwebman *


'93 Gulf Stream Tourmaster
Jeep Overland toad



Posted By: gullbreezer on 05/11/05 02:46pm

to FredC. What Rv do you put those 235/80 tires on? Do you still carry a spare, and what do you cover the spare with? Mine has traveled about 4,000 miles hanging from the frame rails, just behind the fuel tank and in front of the rear axle. It looks like new, and in fact, is.


Posted By: GotTheBug on 06/03/05 02:05pm

1994 Coachman Santara
190 Cummins
Hard to start.
Chassis battery's runs down.

Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)

Outcome: secondary fuel filter ( the small one) is hard to get to, who ever put it on must have pinched the gasket and was leaking.

Just bought this unit


Posted By: metalmangler on 06/03/05 11:40pm

Quote:

"...Chassis battery's runs down.

Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"


Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.


Posted By: Herb40 on 06/05/05 03:43pm

RV particulars: 1996 Beaver Monterey
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): CAT 3126 300 hp, Allison 3060
Miles: 40,000 or so
Year: 2003
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: clanging noise from right rear
Effect: MH still drove OK and brakes worked. Slowed down and drove to nearest city (Forrest City, AR). Parked at Wal-Mart (Sunday). Called Good Sam ERS, and agreed to wait until next day for assistance. They sent rep. from White Motor Co. We drove MH to White's shop.
Cause: They found bolt holding right rear disk brake assembly in place had sheared off.
Outcome: White drilled out broken bolt and installed replacement. Bolt and repair kit (shims, etc.) had to be ordered out of Memphis. That took one more day. Total cost: $363.20, plus motel.


Posted By: mrscaintex on 06/07/05 01:23pm

RV particulars: National Tradewinds Founders Edition LTC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 Cummins Diesel
Miles: 9 k
Year: 2002
Break Down Description/Symptoms:

Break down #1: Starter went out 2 weeks after purchase. The engine would not turn over at all but made a clicking noise. Had towed to Austin and repaired by Freightliner.

Break down #2: 2 months after purchase rv started sputtering while on the highway. Had the pedal pushed all the way to the floor but could not get past 30 mph. It acted like it was not getting any gas. We pulled over and turned off the RV and waited (while trying to decide what to do). We tried cranking it again and it turned over and worked like nothing happened.

Effect: Originally told it was the fuel filter was clogged.
Cause: Unknown if it had caused any other damage.
Outcome: Fuel sensor went out.

We found out the original owners of the RV had to have the fuel pump replaced while in their posession. Don't know if that would have any effect on the fuel sensor or not.

Anyone else who owns a Founders Edition experience any problems?


Posted By: mombum on 06/08/05 01:52pm

Changed coaches. RV particulars: 275HP Cummins, 4 sp Allison. '00 Winnebago Journey, 24K miles. Engine starting sometimes erratic (got coach 10 May 05 in Huntsville) thought it batteries since they wouldn't hold a charge. (There were other little irritations too that should not have been present in a coach just off the dealer's lot. Caveat Emptor is alive and well!). Went to Charlotte for NASCAR, 05/30; left there going South on I-77 and stopped for lunch at Cracker Barrel north of Coulmbia, SC. Engine wouldn't turn over, plenty of battery fire.
Spent two days on parking lot (long story) before being towed to Cummins Atlantic in Columbia. Diagnosis: loose ignition switch shorting out starter. Some mentally handicapped employee didn't see the need to tighten the switch at the dealership. Won't be returning to nor recommending them to anyone. Along with my time and anguish I spent $886 including tow. I'm asking for it to be reimbursed but not holding my breath; will keep you informed.


Posted By: calibrator on 06/15/05 11:14am

During this last Easter Break, Gramma and I (Gramps) decided to take our 7 year old grandson (lives with us) to Disney Land as a surprise and reward for doing so well in school. just prior to cresting the Grapevine (I-5 in So Cal) I got a red warning light that said "Engine Warning" followed shortly by a yellow caution light that said "Shut Engine Down Now". Being a professional pilot I regarded the lights and my location and decided to push on at a slower speed looking for a good place to pull over. It's lucky for us that a good wide shoulder was available right away, so I pulled over as the engine quit on it's own. Did I mention this was our first real outing in the Leviathan (gramma does not like the name I gave it so I refer to it as Levi now)After sitting there quietly for a minute to contemplate our fate, I then checked all the fluid levels and looked for leaks. Finding nothing obviously wrong I did what every good pilot will do and tried to restart the failed engine. The restart went well, no warning lights, pressures and temps good. So we pulled back out into traffic and remained in the right lane. About 30 seconds later the lights reappeared and I headed for a Truck Break area. I now knew I had only 30 seconds to shut the engine off or the engine computer would do it for me. We made it into the off ramp for the area before the engine shut down. I waited for a few seconds and restarted the engine and limped at 5mph into the parking area. Called the dealer who gave me info on the closest Cummins repair location (Ventura) and GS ERS. Three hours later a big red big rig tow truck pulled up. Other than a four hour ride in the tow truck to the Cummins lot (no suspension in the back seat area) the rescue went relatively smooth. We spent that Friday, Sat and Sunday in the Cummins lot. We had called them with our problem and they were very accommodating. Gave us the combination to the lock on the gate, had a 50amp hook up and water bib for us to use while we waited for them to open on Monday. We left there Tuesday at 1:00pm headed for Disney Land.

Well that's the story minus some details of vacationing in Ventura. So here are the particulars:

'02 CC Intrigue 40' TS, TAG
370 ISL, Allison Trans
8400 miles (like new)
ENG WARNING AND SHUT ENGINE DOWN NOW LITES
ENGINE POWER DECLINE AND ENGINE SHUT DOWN
LOW PRESSURE SWITCH FAILED (telling eng comp that there was low oil pressure)
REPLACED $18 SWITCH WITH UPGRADED SWITCH AND WIRE HARNESS (still under warranty, thank God)

Made it home without incidents, had a great time at Disney Land


Posted By: bisgaard on 06/23/05 04:41pm

RV particulars: National RV Tropical T370 on a Freighliner Chassis
Driveline: Caterpillar C7, Allison MH3000
Miles: 8600
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Motor stalled while in motion & would not re-start
Symptoms: Freighliner info center on the dash called out loss of communications with the engine, trans, & ABS ECUs (Electronic Control Units)
Effect: No motor, transmision, ABS, or power steering (off or not working)
Cause: Broken wire from battery to relays powering motor/trans/ABS computers
Outcome: Just after cresting the Grapevine on northbound I-5, we lost all power to the coach & came to a grinding halt at the bottom of the Frazier Park Rd exit. The Freightliner dash readout told a tale of lost communications between the various computers that run the show & gave me that sinking feeling I was in for a long evening.

After a call to a very competent Coach Net operator, she had Jim’s Towing of Bakersfield with an appropriate rig to tow me the 60 miles or so to Freightliner’s Bakersfield Truck Center. The tow truck arrived within the 30 minutes allotted by California Highway Patrol for vehicles blocking critical off-ramps.

In Bakersfield, the Freightliner mechanic zeroed in on the relays that feed the transmission/motor/ABS computers & traced the relay’s wire back to the chassis battery where he found a break under the insulation. He popped a new lug on it & we where on our way to Yosemite, only losing one day off our schedule.

It’s a little disconcerting that all it took was a minor electrical break to effectively shut down the motor, transmission, and ABS. And although the airbrakes worked, power steering also stopped when the motor did!

Check your battery connections, it doesn’t take much to completely kill your rig’s systems & possibly leave you muscling it to a stop on a twisting road!

Kudos to Coach Net, Jim’s Towing, & Bakersfield Truck Center for minimizing the pain on this trip


TJ & Cindy, FMCA F363139
04 National RV Tropical T370
350Hp CAT-C7 3000MH
07 Honda Accord 5spd toad


Posted By: aemmett on 06/28/05 01:00pm

This looks like a good place for my question. My husband and I will be leaving soon for a two week trip. I just opened my mail and found that my insurace on the motorhome is being canceled because the company no longer writes these policies. We were careful to get a plan with breakdown coverage. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what company we should try next?


Posted By: NYCFive1 on 06/29/05 01:19pm

I have Progressive Insurance Company. I have seen othe MH owners who also use them.


NYCFive1


Posted By: metalmangler on 07/02/05 11:40pm

aemmett wrote:

This looks like a good place for my question. My husband and I will be leaving soon for a two week trip. I just opened my mail and found that my insurace on the motorhome is being canceled because the company no longer writes these policies. We were careful to get a plan with breakdown coverage. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what company we should try next?


Sounds like a typical low-blow from the 'Gecko.' They pretend *you* failed to inform them your MH has Duals, perchance?

If you aren't comfortable telling us who pulled the rug out from under you--I hope one day you reconsider. Poor, persecuted insurance companies that suddenly wish to be relieved of the burdens of RV coverage have feelings, too. The more of us who know them, the faster they can be given what they asked-for.


Posted By: JanLiz on 07/05/05 11:20am

Well, here we are in Ypsilanti Michigan at Wolverline Frieghtliner. Our saga started Sunday July 3rd when halfway through the Pennsylavania Turnpike the Cat C7 started "pinging" mysteriously after filling with diesel at a turnpike rest stop. Drove another fifty miles to a rest stop and called Freightliner Hot Line and was told a number to call. This being Sunday night the closest road service had to come from two and a half hours away. Bob arrived at around eleven p.m. and claimed fuel may have been contaminated, so not having the proper replacement filters, he emptied out the secondary engine mounted filter with diesel conditioner. We added motor oil, settle up [$466] and we bunked for the night. Sunday we start our trek to Michigan and the noise was still there, called the road service shop and were told bad fuel has to "work its way out". On we went and the noise continued to get worse. We're now waiting for a determination from the folks here. Will keep you posted.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Jan & Liz
2005 FW Expedition 38N Cat 300
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
The Great Outdoors, Titusville, FL
Villas, Cape May County, NJ
Rupinski Blog


Posted By: Herewego on 07/09/05 05:32pm

Issue:
After traveling approximately 4 hours, tranny felt like it "slipped" into neutral.

Pulled over, put into park, shut down engine, and waited five minutes. Started engine, put into drive and pulled away. Drove another 350 miles with no problem.

Next morning, drive approximately 45 miles, downhill on I-77 from Va into NC, and same thing happens.

Towed to Piedmont Ford in Greensboro, NC.

Solution:
Scanner immediately gave two codes, pointing to solenoid A. After two days of testing at Piedmont Ford, they replaced the solenoid. Continued on to Orlando, and back to NY with no further problems.

2003 Ford Chassis, 4R100 tranny.

The folks at Piedmont Ford did an outstanding job, getting me in right away and diagnosing the issue. They also looked for other potential causes to rule out.

All covered under warranty, as they occured at 10,265 miles.

Good Sam tow was there in 25 minutes. Awesome job.



2004 Coachmen Aurora on a FORD V-10 Chassis
2004 Jeep Liberty
Don't take your organs to Heaven. Heaven knows we need them here! Dave has a dog named Muffy and Mike owns a Cockapoo!







Posted By: JanLiz on 07/12/05 09:37am

Well, came to be a bad #5 injector. People at Wolverine were great. Got us in right away on Tuesday, and we were out by 5:00. Covered under warranty. Questions: Should I ask Freightliner for reimbursement on the Road Service call [$466]? What would cause a bad injector and could it have been prevented? Thanks!

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Posted By: Mussad on 07/13/05 02:28am

Cruise Control, I was on I-79 cruise control was set at 65mph and it disengaged causing a loss of power no motor, brakes, steering. When I rolled to a stop, I put it in park and it started right up. This happened twice, I finally realized that something was wrong with the c/c and it was causing a complete engine shut down. I did NOT use after the 2nd time and everything was fine.. Any comments ?


Posted By: starchase on 07/13/05 06:51am

Freightliner issue. We lost our volt, water & temp. gauges along with our speedometer & tachometer while driveing down I-680. In addition, the transmission stayed in 2nd gear. We were towed to Freighliner in Omaha & when we got there everything worked fine. After checking some thngs they did not find anything wrong. We left and made it home with out further incident. We called Freightliner in SC who authorized some parts replacement that was done at their Grand Rapids, MI. shop.
4 days later the same problem occurred outside KC, MO & after waiting 1 wk to get into Freightliner's OASIS dealer in KC they did find some loose wires in a harness. We left KC and in less than 100 miles the problem occured again!! Our coach is currently at Freightliner in Columbia, MO. where they will try to get to it by next Monday, July 18. All of this occurred in the last 30 days. We are new to this forum & are wondering if anyone else has had these type of problems? If so what was the solution? Also, can anyone suggest what we can do to get Freitliner's attetion so they will do more than tell us to have it towed to the next service center & they will look at it? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Our coach is still under warrenty.


Posted By: munkalido on 07/13/05 10:43am

RV particulars: 1976 C-class 23' Beaver - Dodge Sportsman (MB400)
Driveline (440-1 / 727 tranny0Miles:

Year: 1976 with 48K

Break Down Description: Engine backfired, stumbled and eventually just died. Seemed like vapor lock and it's done this before

Effect: During hot driving or in traffic, the engine sputters then stalls. Should I give it gas during this time it will initiate HUGE backfires. Last year while doing this it blew apart the muffler.

Cause: While dead on the side of the road and believing it was vapor lock, I attempted to bleed the air from the fuel line. I noticed the coil was next to the fuel line and very hot so I moved it way. Engine would not start so I check the coil to see if I had messed something up. I noticed the wire going to the dist. was split so I replaced it (i had spare). Still not spark so I hitched a ride to get a new coil. Worked fine. BTW, I now carry a spare coil

Outcome: Haven't driven it enough yet to see if my problem persists but I'm hoping to solved a persistent problem. I'm contemplating moving the coil to an area that has much more air flow.


Posted By: metalmangler on 07/14/05 05:57pm

On that '76 Dodge, look for the ballast-resistor somewhere near that coil. They usually open, but if something has shorted yours (or some hammer-mechanic has eliminated it), that could be what's making your coil run hot. That resistor is not hard to find and not much money to buy, so you might just want to have the new one in hand and look for the thingie in your engine-bay that looks like it only older. If you find you've been feeding your coil the full 12V up 'til now, you might want to replace that after you've corrected the resistor-issue. It's probably toast inside; failure-any-mile-now, maybe with fire included. Wish you success.


Posted By: munkalido on 07/16/05 01:31pm

metalmangler wrote:

On that '76 Dodge, look for the ballast-resistor somewhere near that coil. They usually open, but if something has shorted yours (or some hammer-mechanic has eliminated it), that could be what's making your coil run hot. That resistor is not hard to find and not much money to buy, so you might just want to have the new one in hand and look for the thingie in your engine-bay that looks like it only older. If you find you've been feeding your coil the full 12V up 'til now, you might want to replace that after you've corrected the resistor-issue. It's probably toast inside; failure-any-mile-now, maybe with fire included. Wish you success.


Sounds good. I'll do that. thanks.


Posted By: binary1 on 07/16/05 09:35pm

[quote=starchase]Freightliner issue. We lost our volt, water & temp. gauges along with our speedometer & tachometer while driveing down I-680. Starchase, we had same experience (and have heard of several others) with our freightliner several years ago. The problem turned out to be the the electronic control module (ECM in technical talk). We had it replaced and never had a problem after that. I understand that sometimes getting the module wet can cause similar problems. The fix seems to be an acrylic box over the module to protect it from water. Anyway, after ours was replaced (they tried lots of other things first. . . guages, wires, stuff and more stuff) we traveled over 50000 miles and nearly 5 years without further incident. Hope this helps in the diagnosis. As far as getting freightliner to do something, try your coach manufacturer. I never had much luck with freightliner as they were always too interested in the big trucking companies where the million dollar contracts were. (I once waited for 26 hours at a BarloWorld for an oil change) Bob

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: ArtDude on 07/22/05 11:55am

Hey BadEye...now that you've got some good info on this topic, how about posting a summary of the number of negative hits for each Manufacturer? That would be good info.


Me, The DW & Curly Sue
34' Winnibago Adventurer


Posted By: cascabel3 on 07/27/05 11:16am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 5.9L 230 Cummins/Allison 6Spd
Miles:82,000
Year:93
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)

Symptoms: Stalled on incline Effect: Wouldn't start again
Cause: Sucking air with less than 1/4 tank.
Outcome: Filled tank and used manual pump

The dealer told me never to do two things in a Diesel:
Don't go over 3200RPM....which the 6 speed Allison won't allow anyway, and never run out of fuel. After picking her up, drove 50 miles to Pasadena and noticed gauge below 1/4 tank, pulled off FWY looking for Diesel. Goin up a steep incline (Lowell Ave) the rig stalled. Unable to start I postulated and prayed that due to the incline the pump was sucking air. AAA guy brought a mere two gallons, but advised me on the re-start to look for a manual pump by the Fuel pump. Friend brought ten more gallons of fuel, and after donning my headlamp and finding the pump, and having someone turn of over the engine while I pumped like madman, the engine came back to life. This process took twenty minutes. I now realize that I could have just pumped for a while to fill the fuel filters and she would have started right up. My first diesel lesson.

* This post was edited 07/27/05 11:22am by cascabel3 *


1977 GMC Conversion 8V71 DD 3 spd Allison Jake etc



Posted By: CA Traveler on 07/27/05 11:34am

cascabel3,

Confirm the 3200RPM with the engine mfg. That is much higher than most diesels, mine 330 Cummins is 2200RPM.


Posted By: jack092 on 07/28/05 01:51pm

On the last day of February, my wife and I were traveling across Oklahoma on highway 412, or the Cherokee Turnpike. As we entered into Arkansas I flipped my exhaust brake on. At the bottom of the hill I could only run in 1st gear. I have a Cummins/Allison power train. I got it off the road and got my book out. I reprogramed the transmission and everything worked. We proceeded East on 412 to about 10 miles West of Alpena, Arkansas. As we went down a three legged hill I flipped the exhaust brake on again. At the bottom of the hill I could only run in 1st gear. I got off the road and fooled with it, finally giving up. I called Good Sam, they sent a wrecker which pulled the motor home back to Springdale, Arkansas. The Freightliner place found that the switch that controls the exhaust brake was defective, which they replaced. The wrecker bill was $700, which Good Sam paid and the repair bill was 265, which I paid. My point is this - the money I paid Good Sam for breakdown protection ($95) saved me a lot of money. I am thankful for the quickness that Good Sam gave to my need. Jack092


Posted By: cascabel3 on 07/28/05 04:23pm

I can't believe I just read all 38 pages of this post. What an awesome post no less. It appears to me that a lot of incidences happen from mere bad electrical connections and sensors, and filters. This tought me what to carry as spares, fuses, connectors, wiring, voltmeter, belts, filters etc....


Posted By: PaulNWAS on 07/28/05 10:46pm

90 Southwind 454 Chevy P30 Chassis 98 Windstar in toad 4 down
Last November 7Pm 55 miles West of Sheridan Wy on I90 going up a hil at 70MPH hear loud "Bang" with total lost of power. Immediate;ly thought "Oh &*% I've blown the tranny"" Coasted to stop. Crawled underneath with flashlight surprized to find tranny intact, but discovered last segment of drive shaft missing! Contacted Good Sam (thank goodness I had reactivated my coverage before leaving on trip) Got excellent service and was towed into Sheridan campground. Of course being Friday night knew was stuck for several days. Fortunately there was truck service shop needby. They came out and measured for new drive shaft and early Monday got us on the way. No more problems on that trip and returned home.
However, in prepareration for another long trip east this summer, took unit for complete service (belts, fluids, lube, etc) discoverd lt rear springs. shocks were falling off, entire rear axle about to come out and tag axle supports broken!@
Upgraded to 99 Safari Zanzibar with 300 cat & 6 speed allison. 8400 miles trip completed in much more comfort than with Southwind!

Paul


Posted By: ToBNamedL8r on 07/29/05 08:40pm

RV particulars: 97 Yellowstone Capri Bunkhouse
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Big Chevy V-8 auto tranny
Miles: 29,000
Year: Mar 05
Break Down Description: Engine stopped running when leaving campsite to go to dumpstation
Symptoms: engine died - tried to start and would run for a few seconds and stop then would not even do that after about 5 tries
Effect: Not able to move
Cause:Fuel pump died
Outcomead fuel pump replaced($1100)



kb
2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD D-Max/Allison Crew Cab Long Bed
Jordan Ultima Brake Controller
PullRite Super 5 hitch
2005 Jayco Eagle 325 BHS

You can live for many causes. You can only die for one. Choose wisely.



Posted By: dlloyd on 08/03/05 09:20am

2004 Holiday Rambler Scepter
ISL 400
13,000 miles
Exhaust Brake solenoid failure.
Exhaust brake would not release.

Had to manually (with a wrench) break the air line to exhaust the air from the cylinder and then drive without the exhaust brake (not recomended, but I was in the middle of nowhere on I77 in WVA). The brakes heated up enough to smell pretty strongh. Cunnins shop replaced the defective part (solenoid) under Monaco warranty but I was deadlined a week waiting for it. (I now carry a spare) Note: the solenoid manufacturer is ISO certified and has few failures.


Posted By: askfwe on 08/05/05 07:57pm

'93 Allegro Bay
Sudden loss of throttle control
Driving down the LA freeway system pulling a toad. The accelerator pedal went to the floor and stayed, the engine went to idle and the speed decreased accordingly. Turned out to be a broken throttle cable. Opened the doghouse and wrapped a line around the carburator linkage and pulled on it to apply power. Drove about five miles to a service center who replaced the throttle cable. Glad the CHP wasn't there, they would have probably objected.


'93 Allegro Bay 28', '02 Saturn Toad.
Fulltimers


Posted By: Golfingene on 08/05/05 11:18pm

Sorry to qualify for this forum, but here goes, it happened Mon 8-1-05.
RV particulars: 2004 Winnebago 39K Journey
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)at 7, 330hp, Allison 6-spd
Miles:17500
Yearuilt 12/03, bought new 4/04
Break Down Description: Suddenly Overheated, after cooling restarted, drove 1 mile overheated again. Had to be towed 40 miles to Sparks, NV.
Causeorton Fan Hub failed. Bolts, bearings, failed and it separated from engine.
Outcome: Still in Caterpillar Shop in Sparks, awaiting parts (7) coming from 5 different areas of US and Canada.
THE CATCH IS...Kenworth (through NHTSB) issued a recall for this same engine and fan hub combination in APRIL 2004! Had it been recalled by Caterpillar or Winnebago, I could have avoided this costly breakdown. BEWARE Other C-7 Cat drivers...


Golfingene and Mary Lou
'04 Winnebago Journey 39K DP
Toad: '99 Grand Cherokee w/
Blu Ox Aventa II, Brakemaster Air Brakes


Posted By: Lyman on 08/08/05 05:08pm

Well I'm not sorry to qualify; learned a lot from reading those problems, and from having my own. I'll get to those in a moment, but a couple notes responding to others:

RDG: On your Bounder starting a hill at 50 and ending up doing 20 or less at the top - I think you'll find my post informative.

GotTheBug: On your Batteries not holding a charge although they've been there less than a year - you too may find some good info in a moment.

ToBNamedL8r: 1100.00 for a fuel pump on a gas engine? Next time, send me a round trip ticket. I'll fix it and show you how, and you can pay me with a 12 pack of beer. It'll be cheaper and quicker, I'm sure, lol.

So on to my stories:

1st MH was a 1979 Pace Arrow on a GMC frame; 27' with a 454 under the hood. Acquired it used in 2001 from a dealer since it had roof a/c and an over the driver/passenger compartment pull down bunk, and was cheap. It was in seemingly good shape mechanically and appearance wise, so ok.
I live in Colorado Springs, we (my then wife and her son) go camping about 4 hours away a couple times, and I notice and attend to some wiring problems, and not much later she decides to visit her aunt in Buffalo NY. Get her all packed up and off we go. No real problems other than the gas gauges don't work - and we don't know exactly how much fuel we can carry, but I'm one of those crawl under/over/around/through everything people, so we get it pretty well figured out on the way there, and what documentation I can get from GMC and Fleetwood on schematics (water and gas only, no electric available) and how many/what gal tanks we have I've received. Get there (Buffalo), step up on her porch, look back to the unit, and to roof has peeled back about 2 feet. Hmmmm. Wonder if that affected gas mileage any (ya think? lol). Off to the local RV store. Buy some roofing tar, some tape, and some putty. Roll the roof back down and tape and tar the sides. Up front I putty, tape, and tar the thing. That roof isn't going anywhere now, trust me. We're there a week visiting, and I occassionally get under her and trace this wire and that one and pull the ones that the guy before added that go nowhere (our belief is he broke things on the road and temp wired them to something else because he wanted a reason to not have to listen to his own she who must be obeyed at home, and be the hero on the road when he suddenly fixed something (that he broke in the first place)). Must have pulled about a mile of wire, and even there are some stories. My favorite? Been running fine, no problems. One morning doesn't want to start. Cranks. No start. Need gas, fire, air. Check for spark, and notice a wire running from the tach side of the distributer should go the the cruise. Pull it off. Starts. Hmmm. Let's see if it acutally goes tot he cruise....Uh-uh. Not here, buddy. Runs to the fuel solenoid that switches which tank you are running on. Just isn't right, you know? YANK!! (well, unplug from here, unwind from there). Suddenly, low and behold, the gas gauge works when the selector switch is in either tank feed position. Hey. I'm a genious, he's an idiot, lol. Never did fix the cruise, by the way. What for? So I can go to sleep driving? Nope.
So it's late and we're on the way back in Nebraska, wife and son asleep, about 2 a.m. and we've been tag team driving. About a mile from a rest area I'm rounding a right hand corner on I-70 and BANG!!! (Ever notice that every time something in a motor home goes wrong, it's always accompanied by a loud BANG!! and dust suddenly in the air???) I holler an expletive and I'm suddenly trying to hold onto the wheel and she dives to the left and crosses into the left lane and heads for the median. The BANG!! and sudden lurching wake up the wife, she grabs her son and braces for impact. It's a wide median, and down I go, trying to keep from flying into the oncoming lane, fishtailing, and ended up with all the drawers open, stuff everywhere, and not spinning or rolling the RV. Whew. We clean her up, do a walk around, and find nothing. Wife says I fell asleep, I tell her, well never mind what I told her. Ended with fine, you drive to the rest stop. She does get her to the rest area and we spend the night. Another walk around in the morning. Still can't figure it out, but it is pulling to the left while driving once in a while. All the linkage looks good and we get home safely though, just have to fight the wheel a little.
So I check all the tire pressures, they are good, and I check the air bags which are front only. I put in air, I hear it coming right back out. Hmmmm. I climb under and the although it was hard to see until I was under there, the air line for the bag had come off the fitting. There's my bang!! and the reason for the subsequent behavior. Falling asleep at the wheel, my ***. This was a violent jerk for those of you who haven't experienced it. At 65 mph, this is not something that you want to experience. I couldn't keep her on the road if I didn't to roll her. Had to go into the median and make a semi controlled skid in the direction I needed to keep her headed in mud and wet grass to get her under control and stopped. No way to match the right hand corner when she pulled left.

Always keep two hands on the wheel.

We make 2 more 4 hours trips in her, I've fixed the wiring on about 20 more things now, and she's pretty solid (the rv). So I'm headed to Lake Havasu for a biker rally towing my 2003 Indian Chief. Just as I'm leaving town on the freeway, I get a BANG!!! and dust fills the cockpit. Left driver side rear outer tire is flat. So I drive her about 2 miles to the next exit, turn her around and head for the truck stop. They can't change it, but keep promising they can for 4 hours. I go down the street, he has the tire and gets it done in 20 minutes. I pay for it as he sits down and puts the lugnuts on. Something really tore that tire up, sure didn't see anything.....fade to about oh, 45 miles later. I'm hearing a definite rub and smelling burning rubber every time I am in a left hand corner. But not in the right hand turns. Ok. Off the freeway we go, into Pueblo, CO. Find the closest place out of the way and pull in. Start looking and each tire. Hey look. If I sit down my the tire that was just changed, I can see what's left of the tail pipe wedged in above it. Now why didn't the guy changing the tire see that? Must not have looked up, huh? SO I get out the jack to take some pressure off the thing and find me the biggest guy I can find. WE start moving it around and finally manage to push it completely through the hole it had made into the interior of the RV through the wheel well. I store it, give the guy 1o bucks which he won't take, duct tape the wheel well inside and off I go....fade to about 12 miles north of Las Vegas, NM on I-25.
You guessed it. BANG!!! Engine is running fine and the throttle responds, but she's steady slowing down. I pull to the side and pull the doghouse. Linkage looks fine, it's working. Shut her off, restart and move the lever. I'm going nowhere fast.
Ok. Shut her off. No signal on the cell phone but ***NOTE*** I know that dialing 911 will connect with whatever carrier has a sattelite in the area. That's a federal law to deal with emergency situations where your carrier doesn't have a signal.****
I call 911. New Mex Hwy Patrol gets a tow truck headed my way, and the guy knows I'm towing a bike and I'm a 27 foot class A to begin with.
Tows me into Las Vegas to the Diesel mechanic's shop (These guys are awesome - I recommend them highly!!!). I stay in the rv, and I'm in the garage in the morning. They know the problem in 20 minutes. Now I've been dealing with what seems like dieselling in this engine for about 2 years when I hsut it off. Not all the time, but when it acts like that, just hold the accelerator down, and she'll finally die. These guys in 20 minutes determine that the last bolt hold the flywheel to the torque converter has sheared. AHA!!! And they will go to the local salvage yard to look for the converter and the flywheel for me to save me 2 days waiting for Albuquerque to drive the stuff up there. 900.00 and about 6 hours later, I'm on the road.
Great rally, let's get back. Going uphill, I'm suddenly only able to maintain about 5 mph. Once on the level I can do 65. Ok. I pull over on a hill and leave her idling on the rear tank. A little 10-100 and back to the driver's seat. Put her in drive, hit the gas and she starts dying. Flip the tank switch to the main (which is full and has no pump - the electric pump is on the rear tank which just went dry), and not enough vacumn to pull the gas into the engine. I'm contemplating how I'm going to do this since I can't get to the tank gas line connection, and finally pull over a guy in a pickup, hoping he he has some gas or a siphon hose. I explain the problem. He says, don't you have gas in the bike? I slapped myself in the forehead so hard I shoulda had that V8 and we both start laughing. I'm on the road 20 minutes later, but still can't get her going any faster uphill, whereas on the trip to Havasu everything was fine.
Get home, and walk into a divorce, I get the bike and that motorhome, she gets the house and the 92 Pace Arrow. Ok, I take it to get emissions for the new title, she's running ragges. Turns out 4 of the 8 cylinders weren't firing. 4 plug wires had gone bad. What the heck??? First time for everything. Replaced wires, rotor and plugs. Plenty of power now. And she passed.
Lived in her in a RV park for 8 months. Traded her in for a 2000 Pace Arrow Vision 36' with 2 slides, a real bed and washer/dryer. Been living in her since then, and still in the same RV park. I'll finsih in my next post.

* This post was edited 08/09/05 12:08am by Lyman *


2000 Pace Arrow Vision, 36B, 2 slides, Ford V10
2006 Audi A4 3.0L Quattro Cabriolet
2003 Indian Chief
Patriot Guard Rider
Iron Indian Rider
Indian Riders Group
American Legion
USAF, Retired


Posted By: Lyman on 08/08/05 05:17pm

2000 Pace Arrow Vision. Less than 12000 miles. Parked, but lived in all the time. Only 2 companies will insure if you live in them full time, did you know that? Anyway, she's covered.
Winter, I don't even think about draining the ice maker connection, and pop goes the weasel. Come home from work, water and ice outside the unit. I find the problem and turn it off, but have multiple problems inside. Heat works but blows the circuit breaker. Lights don't want to work. Finally locate the house batteries (under the steps) and they aren't getting a charge, even with the generator or solar panel. Check every fuse in the RV and out on the pole. Have to replace a few (HEY PEOPLE!!! BE SMART!!! KNOW WHERE ALL YOUR FUSE BOXES ARE LOCATED. You can check that it isn't that before you call someone who charges 65.00 just to show up and replace a fuse) fuses. Still, no charge. OK. I know it's the inverter. Call the mobile maintenance guy, and 600.00 later I have a new inverter and climate control unit (all under the fridge - guess where the water was leaking to inside?). Common problem with Fleetwoods - Turn off that water and blow that blue valve out every winter, folks). Batteries work fine now, although I did have to add distilled water to every cell. NOTE TO SELF: Check water level once a year and unplug and run batteries almost down to nothing before plugging back in.
I do have some stories from people that have limped into the park, I see about 90 rv'ers a day from all over. But I'll get to some of those later.

* This post was edited 08/09/05 12:13am by Lyman *


Posted By: metalmangler on 08/08/05 08:36pm

Lyman, you're doing just fine here! Hope to read (& learn) more.


Posted By: Lyman on 08/08/05 11:53pm

Thanks, metalmangler. Latest problem from someone in the park? Hmmmm.
2002 Newmar Dutch Star Cummins Diesel on a Spartan chassy. Has a decent 4wd toad. Driving through Colorado, someone tells him to pull over. His connector to the toad has come loose and is dragging on the ground. Ripped it up good and the connector end is gone and the wires are damaged from dragging the ground. No diodes, the dealer ran wires from the front of the toad to the back and put in extra light bulbs, so he replaced the cord and all is good there. (For those of you with toads where you have diodes in the lines from certain dealer installs -- if you are connected to the RV and turn on the headlights (and some other systems) in the toad, you create a feedback loop. Burns out the diodes and will do very weird things to your RV electrics. Make sure you unhook that connector before doing anything involving electricity with the toad or no lights on the toad and some very weird issues that could end up being Electronic Control Module related).
Anyway, he's back on the road. About 40 miles from here, his gauges suddenly go bonkers. All read wrong. He pulls in here (Fountain Creek RV Park in Colorado Springs) and calls a mobile maintenance man (who we that live here have never seen before - he'd just dropped a business card in the office - the normal guy we see is really good and does have all the testers. But being a biker couldn't be reached and is probably at Sturgis for the big bike rally). Anyway, no ODBC tester; he just starts checking some mains and fuses and relays. A couple relays he replaces. After 2 hours, no fix, but gives up. Charges 90.00. His neighbor and I have no ODBC tester either, but we are both pretty good with electrics (prior military jobs and I work for HP) and know from watching the maintenance guy that he didn't bother to check all the fuses. So the search is on. Guy doesn't know where his dash fuse box is. Look everywhere and can't find it - inside and out. Ask him about the cover on the top of the dash, he says the dealer told him it's an airbag under there (hey, they're making advances all the time, who knew?). We exhaust every possibility; turn off the battery disconnect, wait 2 minutes and reset. Same problem. Unhook toad, same problem. Check every fuse and circuit breaker we can find with a ohmmeter, mainly checking for continuity; find a cuple bad and replace them, same problem. Finally he pulls that cover on the top of the dash. Lo and behold!!! Fuse board. Every fuse is good, all the relays check out, but can't get the ignition (F9) relay to budge. Likely burned inside and fried itself to the contacts. Not going to break the circuit board (I work computers - doesn't pay to ruin circuit boards for nothing) by prying it up with a screwdriver; suspect that's what caused his other 2 relays which deal with the ignition to go bad. For the record, all gauges point straight up (although sitting still, for instance, the speedo reads 40 mph and he has 1/2 tank of gas when he knows he has under 1/4). Sure, pull a couple relays (I don't recommend this, the maintenance man did it and I just shook my head- good way to fry other systems; got the feeling the so-called maintenance guy didn't know squat; but I'm not going to interfere - some of those guys get pretty upset when you do and the Dutch Star owner was paying for this and didn't want to upset him either) while the engine is running and either nothing on the dash, just red lights everywhere, or the gauges are working, or going crazy. That's how he came to replace 2 relays under the hood maintenance man figured they were fried so replaced them and said that's all I can do, got paid, and left. Twit. Quit for the night, this guy's had a hard day and at least he had SOMETHING to check on. Went online and printed out his recalls from NHTSA (3 - one for fumes, 2 for brake systems) and the Newmarcorp.com recommended service centers, one of which is 8 miles from here. And point him to a decent restaurant so he and the wife can eat.
After dinner, we sit down and have a beer, and then off to bed (after all, I have to work in the morning and he has some calls and decisions to make).
In the morning, he calls Fleetwood (authorized Newmar service center here) and they can't get to him until Thursday. He calls Spartan. Their service center is closer and can get him in tomorrow, and while after an hour they agree it may be the relay, they want to make sure (and if they break the board, they have to pay for it). Then he buys us each a 6-pack for our trouble. We (his neighbor, who I ride motorcycles with) say thanks, 'twerent nothing and we'd do it for anyone. So his neighbor and I invite them to dinner and a local (awesome) German restaurant and pick up the bill, letting him take the tip. He balks, but we remind him we've both been places where stuff goes wrong and all of a sudden something happens and money starts going up in smoke (my trip to Havasu, his neighbor's trips to bike rallys in a class A towing the bikes where he had to pay for an engine one trip, a tranny another, and on the last an air conditioner). He acquiesces at that point, we come home, give him directions on how to get to the maintenance center Spartan told him about, and we all sit down and have a couple beers and about an hour worth of really good conversation. Nice evening. We'll see what happens at the maintenance garage, and I'll keep you posted.

Oh, and by the way. I did relay a couple of the experiences people on here have posted (took 5 hours to read through 38 pages, but I enjoyed it), but not all. Didn't want to turn the guy and his wife into people just waiting for the other shoe to drop. He has Michelins. Does check his pressure before moving that thing. Knows now to get and keep spare fuses and maybe some other parts. Laughed that I immediately thought of Utahans when I read She Who Must be Obeyed. Laughed about the wife towing the RV with the 4wd when you have coverage to get towed (laughing with you folks, not at you - it's all a learning experience). Knows he can (did you know?) talk to Newmar and Spartan and Cummings and order manuals (parts, service, and user) and schematics, although he may have to pay for them. The manual with the RV is good for some things, but has no real schematics (doesn't even say where the fuse boxes are),and he knows a darn sight more now about his rv than he did (like dealers may not know what they are talking about when it comes to air bags in an rv), talking to us and a couple other neighbors (one of which has of all things a 2003 Dutch Star who just happened to pull in 3 days ago for a week stay). I know the service center he's going to will have the right ODBC unit (after reading these posts and living in a park, I'm going to buy the whole kit(odbc1, 2, and the foreign one complete with code manuals for all makes and models 1983 through 2007) for 299.00 off of a website I found. Would have loved to have been able to isolate the exact cause for him, and I've used those items before, just never bought one.
I'll keep you posted on the results of his problem.
And just in case...anyone know how to turn off that annoying air pressure alarm they have on those Dutch Stars? Until there's enough pressure, the thing goes off after the engine is started. Dang that's annoying. Also, if he hits a hard enough bump on the road, one of his jacks will evidently drop an inch or less, but enough to activate the jacks down light and alarm. Scares the bejesus out of him and the wife. He stops immediately every time and verifies the jack is indeed up, but that alarm......he'd love a way around that. I advised he ask the maintenance shop tomorrow, but thought some of you would have an idea as well. Seem like a pretty smart group of people here, and I've certainly gained a lot of information from you as well.
As a final note for now, he and the wife are dropping off the rv in the morning, taking the cog railway to the top of Pike's Peak around 1 p.m., and spelunking in Cave of the Winds tomorrow. Always make the best you can of what seems like a bad situation and learn to laugh. At yourself, and at what others have gone through. Commiserate with them too, as we did with all of you. Sure makes life in an rv more bearable. For instance; the guy and his wife who got pulled over by a new highway patrolman in Arizona for not wearing seat belts. Class A, older one, say late 70's early 80's. Those didn't have shoulder belts, just lap belts (which they did have on but the cop could only see that no shoulder belts were being worn and presumed....). Had to invite him inside and show him there weren't any holes for them so they hadn't removed them, they were just not installed back then. At least the cop got an education and a cup of hot coffee and a sandwich out of the deal. He won't be pulling over any more Class A drivers for that, although he's likely learned also that the newer units do have shoulder belts. They are friends of mine and we all laughed our rear ends off over that one. As I expect you are right now.....lol. And as you are online, check your vehicle's recalls using NHTSA.com. Especially as if in this case, you've bought it used and aren't registered with your parent company - they don't know how to tell you there may be a problem with your unit if they can't find you. He's going to have those recalls checked tomorrow too.


Posted By: mtrumpet on 08/15/05 10:55am

Great stories Lyman. Some eye-opening info in them too.
Keep 'em coming!


Mark & Cherie (& Chloe)
2002 Newmar Dutch Star DP 3872, Cummins 350 ISC, Spartan Chassis



Posted By: larryabramson on 08/16/05 11:49pm

2001 DutchStar Class A, W22 Chassis

We had our brakes worked on (new calipers and abs sensors) twice before the recall. After the recall work, we drove it about 50 miles and the brakes were smoking again. Took it back to the dealer and again, they replaced the calipers and abs sensors. Left on a trip, got about 350 miles and the abs light came on, then I lost ALL brakes. Managed to get it to a campground, then called Workhorse the next morning (2001 W22 chassis). They agreed to tow it for repair, even though it was out of warranty (actually, they have covered all the work so far even though it's now 1.5 years out of warranty) to a different service center after we finished our vacation. It's been there 2 weeks and they checked everything and told me they would replace everything, if necessary. So far, they have replaced the rear calipers, the bad master cylinder, 4 brake hoses (3 tested bad so they replaced all) and the caliper guide pins.

Tomorrow (well, actually today..08/17) will be the test. The VP of Workhorse is picking it up and driving it back to us and will test the brakes, determine if it's porpoising, etc. We shall see!!

Larry


Posted By: rickbpdq on 08/22/05 01:27am

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevrolet 454, 4L80E
Miles: ~28000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: I was getting ready to hit the road, and I stopped by my nearby grocery store to get some provisions. After storing my purchases the coach wouldn't start, just heard click-click-click from the starter.

- Tried auxiliary start: no improvement
- Tried auxiliary start with generator running: nothing
- Tried manually jumping the coach and chassis batteries, no dice.
- Tried jumping the chassis battery from my dinghy.
- Thoroughly cleaned connections and battery posts: nothing.

Now I'm beginning to suspect a failure with the starter. Went to Auto Zone and bought a new starter, and installed it myself. Exact same symptoms: just clicks when I turn the key.

I called by brother-in-law who knows a lot more than me. It turns out there was some corrosion and buildup between the copper battery cable and the circular connectoids on the end.

We removed the positive battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter, and we took it to an auto parts store. The auto parts store removed the old connectoids, and crimped on new ones. Unit cranks fine now.

We purchased additional eye connections which we installed on the negative cables on-site.

I'm lucky this occured just a few miles from the house, my dinghy was available, and I had a strong cell phone signal. Had this happened in the middle of nowhere I'm sure I would have been on the hook for an enormous towing bill.

I find it odd that I had the problem with such a young, low mileage unit. I'm sure if I would USE the darn thing more the corrosion wouldn't have had a chance to build up.

It turns out the original starter wasn't bad, but I keep it on-board in case of a future starter failure. The starter is very easy to change on this unit.

After this debacle I also cleaned the connections where the negative battery cables connect to the chassis.

Also, I've purchased spare a battery cable which I keep inside the MH so, if the alternator fails, I can wire the house and chassis batteries together, rather than having to jury-rig the auxiliary start switch.

* This post was edited 08/22/05 01:43am by rickbpdq *


Posted By: Lyman on 08/22/05 11:32am

Ok, finally got an update for you on that Dutch Star problem. Had to call the shop, since they left right from there. They finally got into the shop on the 10th, and were gone later that day. Shop replaced a Horn relay (missing), and ABS relay (blown), and the dash gauge problems were caused by a faulty Interface Module, part # 00-41217. There you go.


Posted By: Golfingene on 08/24/05 12:08am

Boy is my face red, it seems that although the problem was the Fan Hub and had to be replaced, IT WAS NOT A HORTON FAN HUB. Seems this was a Catapillar part. Cat replaced it and it works fine. Sorry, Horton.


Posted By: Bella on 08/31/05 02:55pm

I was on a trip to Canada this month and had the following happen just south of Calgary, Alberta.

RV particulars: Winnebago Brave 34D
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse
Miles: approx. 10,000
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Reduced Engine Power
Symptoms: See above
Effect: See above
Cause: Wire under the dash came loose
Outcome: Engine power went down to almost nothing while going uphill. The LED readout on the dash stated "Reduced Engine Power" so I said No S**t, now tell me WHY. The "Check Engine" light came on at the same time. I pulled over and called Workhorse Emergency Road Service. The sent a tow truck and hauled me back to Calgary. Diagnostic showed a wire under the dash came loose. The computer didn't know how much power I was applying so it reduced the power. I got the service guy to show me where the wire was. Away I went. Two days later, while driving through Wyoming, going uphill, I lost engine power AGAIN. Same readout on the LED. This time, while pulled to the side of the highway, I risked my driver's door and my A**, half crawled under the dash and made sure the wire was connected. Gave it 15 minutes and it started with full engine power. The "check engine" light was on but I continued truckin. The next morning, when I started it, I had full engine power and no fault light. I will be having a discussion with Workhorse. This is the second wire that's "come loose" under the dash. Last time was a few months ago. I pulled into a campground and couldn't put my jacks down or my slides out. I still have the problem of my entire dash going out for no reason while I'm driving. I had the cluster software upgrade installed. Guess that didn't help.


Single rv'er? Check out MSN Groups Open Roads Singles

Donna & The Girls
Bella, Chisai & Keiki (cats)
2004 Winnebago Brave 34D
2003 Pontiac Sunfire


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 09/01/05 10:26pm

Bella,
Check that the wire bundle(s) under the dash all have enough slack so that normal things like temperature changes, road vibration, or movement caused by the 'tilt' feature of the steering column don't cause strain on the wiring bundles, which over time could cause wires to pull loose from their connections.


Posted By: dlloyd on 09/05/05 10:50am

I wrapped the air pressure buzzer with plastic tape to attenuate the sound. Did not want to completely eliminate it. It is not so loud now.


Posted By: Roadster20 on 09/07/05 06:17pm

Excellent. I am not a first time buyer but I sure found it informative. How can I cut and paste to word program to pass to some friends?


Posted By: captainblue18 on 09/08/05 11:22am

I need some advise, please. I have a '74 Superior Coach 2500. I'm afraid I might have blown the engine. I was driving along, heading for the campground, when I lost all power, was all I could do to coast into a gas station parking area. I have since gotten it restarted, but not without slight backfiring, and it blew off my oil cap, lots of white smoke. I can start the rig, but it really doesn't have any power (compression). Is very hard to keep running. Any ideas???


Posted By: munkalido on 09/08/05 11:30am

captainblue18 wrote:

I need some advise, please. I have a '74 Superior Coach 2500. I'm afraid I might have blown the engine. I was driving along, heading for the campground, when I lost all power, was all I could do to coast into a gas station parking area. I have since gotten it restarted, but not without slight backfiring, and it blew off my oil cap, lots of white smoke. I can start the rig, but it really doesn't have any power (compression). Is very hard to keep running. Any ideas???


Check the oil? What does it look like? Pull the plugs too. What do they look like?


Posted By: Mushroom on 09/08/05 02:09pm

Cap'n Blue, white smoke is water. Best case is blown head gasket, worst is cracked heads. Both fixable.

You probably now have coolant in the oil so do not drive it. You don't want to wash the bearings and have it sieze up on you.

74 was about due for a rebuld anyway.


1994 Vectra DP
230 Cummins / MD3060 Allison Trans
Banks Stinger / Improved Injectors
US Gear Exhaust Brake
Towing 1989 Ranger / Unified Tow Brake



Posted By: metalmangler on 09/08/05 07:09pm

Captainblue, unless by chance you've added a driver's-side door and a fire-suppression system, approach that troubleshooting with care. Lot to like about those, but old Mopar 8-holers have open fuel-systems even when they're right & tight--and there's only one way out of an old Superior unless you've fixed that. I wish you success.


Posted By: metalmangler on 09/08/05 07:19pm

Roadster20 wrote:

Excellent. I am not a first time buyer but I sure found it informative. How can I cut and paste to word program to pass to some friends?


I just open a new Word doc from the "Start" menu. Then I go back to the window where I have the Open Roads Forum up. Using the mouse I highlight the text of a post only (takes a little practice but it's worth it). When I have it highlighted I "right-click" on it and select "Copy" from the drop-down menu. Then I go to that new Word document and left-click on the little 'clipboard' icon at the top. Hope that works for you.


Posted By: DocScottWesterlyRI on 09/10/05 06:08pm

Gasser-Chev 454 in 1985 Heritage 2000 class A.
Engine coughing and bogging down going up hill.
  • Replaced fuel filter in carburator...No fix it.
  • Had carburator rebuilt...No fix it.
  • Replaced rear fuel pump...No fix it.
  • Removed connection to mechanical pump and connected form front elec pump to carburator...No fix it.
  • Bypassed front elec fuel pump and filter...No fix it.
  • Reconnect front elec fuelpump and filter...Same.
    Disconnected fuel linein rear of rear elec pump and filter, blew compressed air back into gas tank with the gas cap off, reconnected line and put on cap...Jumping cow patches, It ran great for about 50 miles.
    THE SOLUTION----Remove gas tank get the******out and throw away the strainer in the tank. NOW THAT WAS EASY, IT ONLY TOOK TWO YEARS TO FIGURE IT OUT!!!!!

    I sure hope this info will help someone!!

    Good Topic Badeye. Keep up the good work.

    All the best,



Posted By: jimervin on 09/13/05 06:37am

Filled up with gas in Wildwood, Fl on trip to Thomasville, GA from Frostproof, Fl. Drove to first traffic light and stepped on brake which went to floor. Local chevy dealer had serviced my cars for 2 years when I lived in area so they agreed to work on it.

They found locked caliper on left rear, 3 others damaged beyond repair, cystaliized pads, replaced master cylinder and rear rotors and refinished front rotors. Total was $3500.00, partially covered by Good Sam CSP.

This is a 99 Damon Daybreak bought used in April with 40,000 miles. Prior owner was a snowbird who left it outside in Wisconsin, damage due to neglect. Dealer had assured me that unit was well maintained, but was sold as-is. My fault for trusting. If I buy again, it will be a certified Good Sam unit. Thirty years in various RVs and still learning.


jim


Posted By: lonnor1 on 09/14/05 12:13am

After a 600 mile trip through the North Cascades I pulled up in front of the house and the engine in my 97 Ford PSD started missing badly. I backed the 31' Alumalite into the yard and called Ford dealer for an AM appointment. On the way to dealer the high pressure oil hose burst, pumped 10 quarts of oil in the street and the truck died. Had the truck towed to Ford: High pressure oil pump and hose replaced also replaced camshaft position sensor. $1,100.00 lighter now, truck runs fine. Just thinking about where that hose could have broken makes me a lucky guy.


Posted By: mtrumpet on 09/14/05 01:49pm

jimervin wrote:

Filled up with gas in Wildwood, Fl on trip to Thomasville, GA from Frostproof, Fl. Drove to first traffic light and stepped on brake which went to floor. Local chevy dealer had serviced my cars for 2 years when I lived in area so they agreed to work on it.

They found locked caliper on left rear, 3 others damaged beyond repair, cystaliized pads, replaced master cylinder and rear rotors and refinished front rotors. Total was $3500.00, partially covered by Good Sam CSP.

This is a 99 Damon Daybreak bought used in April with 40,000 miles. Prior owner was a snowbird who left it outside in Wisconsin, damage due to neglect. Dealer had assured me that unit was well maintained, but was sold as-is. My fault for trusting. If I buy again, it will be a certified Good Sam unit. Thirty years in various RVs and still learning.



What engine/chassis set up do you have on that rig?


Posted By: jimervin on 09/14/05 05:58pm

99 Damon is a chevy chassis with 454 vortec, 31 ft long, and a 4.10 axle, 4 speed trans. 4 wheel disc with ABS.


Posted By: ka3ohl on 09/14/05 06:44pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):Ford V10 Thor WindSport
Miles:8,400
Year:2005
Break Down Description: Engine would not turn over. No clicking from starter senolid.
Effect: Engine would not start
Cause: Starter relay - front of engine on frame.
Outcome: I had a volt meter and found that 12 volts was not passing through relay when inginition switch was turned to start position. Jumped relay to start went to Ford dealership where the replaced relay in about and hour. No charge.


Posted By: Wilky on 09/15/05 08:16am

Just a quick thought, or maybe I read pass it. This is a GREAT post but maybe if from here on we could add manafacturer, or maker of M.H.? Just a idea. Great work ALL!!


Posted By: treecounter on 09/15/05 05:16pm

We broke down this spring on the way home. WE were just out side of Zion NP. When we lost oil pressure. We were in our 1 ton dully Dodge Diesel pulling a 35 ft. tith wheell. WE were toed back to town where it was determined the only thing wrong was the sender. With a manual Gage we had 80 lbs. of oil pressure at idle. We had to drive to St. George about eighty miles to get the part. One day delay. Cost for part was $120. Thanks to good Sam road service no tow bill.


Treecounter


Posted By: geomerc on 09/25/05 09:02am

RV particulars: Itasca Sunflyer
Driveline 454, carb, th400
Miles:62,000
Year:1989
Break Down Description: Lost power after driving 2 or more hours

Symptoms Engine popping through exhaust and carb

Effect had to camp on side of road

Cause: This problem had several causes drove me crazy. During test drive we noticed engine popping under a load at 60 mph. Previous owner had new wires and plugs and cap and rotor put on, next test drive good so we bought it. Several short trips it started acting up again. Pulled the engine cover to have a look a round. Mechanic didn't bother to route the wires the way he should have several laying on manifolds and they didn't fit in the heat shields properly, they kept falling off on short trips. So replaced with NAPA truck wire with ceramic boots routed correctly. Test drive good. Went on longer camping trip started pulling hills started popping sounded like running out of gas. Had partner pure gas down carb as I tried to keep it running to get to a spot we could get off the road(we were at elev 6700 ft). Next day added in line fuel pump cause I figured tank one was bad and kept on camping. On way home after several mountains started acting up again only we were able to go 15 mph up hill and it got hot. On flat land ran good. Got home dropped the gas tank and looked inside. Looked like a big rusty cow pie right under the pickup. Took to radiator shop and had cleaned and coated for 150.00 tested the fuel pump, it was dead, so bought a new one and put it back together. Also had radiator recored while it was down. Just got back from 4600 mile trip had no problems!
Outcome clean fuel tank and replace in-tank pump. road test good


Posted By: Bob D on 10/02/05 11:50am

Just registered and was hoping I could get some helpful information regarding the tail lights on my 2003 Fleetwood Discovery. Bulbs are good fuse is good but the tail lights are not working. Thinking maybe a short. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this dilemma on the road. No Fleetwood dealers anywhere in my area. Help!


Posted By: Ciaoyall on 10/02/05 03:55pm

Roadster20 wrote:

Excellent. I am not a first time buyer but I sure found it informative. How can I cut and paste to word program to pass to some friends?


Roadster20, I have copied your message by highlighting it and then pasting above. To copy and paste to a Word program, an e-mail or something else, just hi-lite what you want to copy by holding down the left button on your mouse and drag across whatever you wish to copy. Once you have it hi-lited, right click on it and a flag will pop-up...click on "copy". Now open whatever you want to copy it to and left click on the document. Now, right click and again you will get a pop-up..click on "paste".
Now you just proceed with completing your document and send or file, etc.

Oh yes, if you want to copy and paste the "complete" document to send, etc; just right click on the document (you don't have to hi-lite) and when the pop-up appears, click on the "select all". Now just as above, paste it to your document for sending.

Just do it a few times and you will find it is very simple.


Posted By: BabyBear on 10/14/05 05:48pm

1984 Fleetwood Southwind
454 Chevy with carb

Went to pick up my first motorhome in Georgia last Wednesday.I bought it from EBay,and the agreement was the guy was going to have the oil and filters in the engine and tranny replaced,the MH greased,oil in rear checked,brakes checked,etc,etc,etc in order for it to be ready for the 600+ mile trip home,and I would pay him when I got there. When I get there and asked him about it,he tells me he didn't have time,"but everything is ok". I get in it to check it out,and the first thing I spot is the brake light in the center of the dash shining at me. Brakes feel spongly but stop it ok,so I figured they just needed to be bled. I was wrong. I discovered this going into a town called Wren,Georgia when I was barely able to stop at the red light. They had worked fine for the 100 miles,and the light had even gone out.

Here is where the adventure begins. As I am stopped at the red light,I see a Goodyear tire store across the intersection. I was under the impression they do brake work,so I pulled off over there to get them to fix the brakes. I was told,"We don't work on stuff like that. We only work on cars and trucks. You need to take it to the diesel truck repair shop about 200 yards behind us." No matter how many times I told them that brakes were brakes and that it had the same brakes as a Chevrolet big truck,they just wouldn't listen. I go back out to drive over to the diesel truck shop,and my MH won't start. Battery is weak from bad wiring. Go back inside the Goodyear tire store and ask for a jumpstart,and they refuse. "We don't work on stuff like that". They tell me to walk to the diesel shop for a jump,even after I explain to them that I am handicapped and have trouble walking. The guy just shrugged and walked away.

I walk to the diesel shop,and the guy there tells me,"We don't work on stuff like that. We only work on diesel trucks." He agress that "brakes are brakes",but says he doesn't care because he still won't work on it,"and even if I did agree to work on it,it would be the middle of next week before I could even get started." He was nice enough to take his pu and give me a ride back to the MH and jump start it for free. He also told me my best bet was to drive it to Augusta,Georgia because that was the closest place to get it fixed. He said,"It's only about 30 miles."

I head out of town and spot the Chevy dealer. I thought I really had it made then,but was wrong once again. The service manager told me,"We don't work on stuff that big,and don't even know HOW to get parts for it!" I reminded her that it was a Chevrolet,and that Chevrolet had plenty of parts at the same phone number she called to order parts for other Chevies,and then she told me,"We don't even have the books to order parts for 1-ton Chevy trucks because we never sell anything any bigger than a 2500." I aked her,"You mean if I lived in Wren and came in wanting to buy a new 1-ton Chevy pu that you would refuse to sell it to me?",and she said,"Yeah.". Amazing!

I stopped at the NAPA store on the way out of Wren and bought a 1,000 CCA jumper battery pack for $85 so that I will be able to start the motorhome again if I have to cut it off for any reason. No big deal,since I consider these things a essential option for a motorhome that runs off batteries. It's just a good thing to have. I just wish I had been able to get to a discount store and bought one of the $35 ones.

The 4-lane road was practically empty,and since Augusta was the next town I came to,it wasn't that bad driving there because I went slow. Stopped at the first motel I found and got a room because it was after 5 PM by this time,and everybody was closed. Got up the next morning and called around maybe 8 or 9 places before I found anybody who would agree to work on it before the following week. Some just refused,including the Chevy dealer who also sold motor homes. He said they only do house work,not mechanical repairs. Can you believe that crap?

Anyhow,I found a garage in a northern suburb of Augusta who told me,"If you get it here today I will start to work on it today.",so I called the Good Sam Travel Help 800 number for a tow. This was at about 9:30 AM Thursday morning. I told them I had found a guy in north Augusta who would work on it today and that I wanted it towed there. They told me they only tow to the closest repair facility,and that any tow beyond that point was up to me. It ended up that they had me towed to this guys shop anyhow because nobody under contract to the Good Sam Club was willing to tow it that morning because it was raining and they said they were all too busy. Good Sam ended up calling the guy who said he would work on it (I had given them his name and number) to see if he knew anybody who would tow it,and he gave them the number of a guy close by who agreed to do it. This meant that he was the closest repair facility to the tow company. I found this out at 11:30 AM when I called Good Sam back and asked them where the tow truck was. Even then,this guy didn't show up until around 1 PM,and he was so stupid it took him a hour and a half to figure out that if he didn't have the right size wrench he couldn't take the drive shaft off. He kept trying different 13mm,1/2,and 5/8ths wrenches when he needed and didn't have a 9/16th wrench. He would get out from under my MH,go to his truck,and get a different 13mm or other wrench and climb under it again,to once again be amazed that it didn't fit any better than the other 13mm wrench he had been trying.

He finally gets me hooked up with the driveshaft still in it and the motor running in neutral,and gets me to the repair shop at about 3PM or so. Too late to work on it Thursday,but at least they get to look at it,figure out what it needed,and order the parts so they could work on it Friday. These are nice people,and they even give me a ride to a motel and then picked me up the next day when my MH was ready. They had it ready for me Friday afternoon,and I get out of Augusta at about 5:30 PM. They did good work and they did what they said they would do. I can't recommend them too highly. I get no money or anything else from recommending them. I am just putting this out here in case any of you who travel through Augusta ever need any repairs. You know that this guy won't jerk you around,do inferior work,or rip you off doing unneccessary repairs.

Quality Car Center
4293 Triangle Industrial Drive
706-651-8631

The next 500 miles went smoothly,and the MH is sitting out in my yard right now while I try to figure out what is wrong with the wiring.

* This post was edited 10/14/05 06:01pm by BabyBear *


Posted By: ygohome on 10/15/05 09:11am

WELCOME TO THE REAL WORLD OF FLEETWOOD. ACTUALLY HAD THOUGHT THE PROBLEMS OF REPAIR WAS BEHIND MH OWNERS, HOWEVER, SINCE OWNING A 1990 1/2 "PACE[LEMON]ARROW" THERE ISN'T A STORY LOGGED IN THAT I COULD NOT TOP. RECORD OF NEVER HAVING TAKEN A TRIP SINCE PURCHASED(1990)WITHOUT SOME SORT OF REPAIR. EACH TIME YOU THINK THAT EVERYTHING HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF AND NO MORE PROBLEMS. TOO AFRAID TO START OVER WITH ANOTHER. STUPID THOUGHT,~BUT NOW TOO LATE. DO NOT EXPECT TOO MUCH SYMPATHY FROM DEALERS/FACTORY, EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE THE DOCUMENTATION TO PROVE NOT JUST SOUR GRAPES. MY WAIT FOR GOOD SAM ROAD SERVICE WAS 24HRS AND THEY KNEW I WAS IN A REST AREA (COULD WRITE A BOOK ON THE LIVES OF SOME TRUCKERS THAT WOULD SELL). I DID HAVE WORK DONE TWICE LAST YEAR & NOW HAVING MORE PROBLEMS WITH GETTING IT STARTED. WILL NOT DISCOURAGE YOU ANYMORE. TRAVELING BY MH IS STILL THE BEST. THANKFUL FOR HAVING THE EXPERIENCE IN TRAVELING MH FOR 35 YRS. HAPPY TRAILS.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.

* This post was last edited 10/15/05 09:27am by ygohome *


Posted By: BabyBear on 10/15/05 11:03am

ygohome wrote:

WELCOME TO THE REAL WORLD OF FLEETWOOD.


This has nothing to do with it being a Fleetwood and everything to do with it being 21 years old and having been sitting for the last year or so. Master cylinders will go out on any of them.


Posted By: firemanmn on 10/23/05 12:32pm

RV particulars: 1997 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser
Driveline Cummins 8.3, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 42,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: I stopped at a traffic light and noticed the high rpm at about 1100.

Symptoms: After shifting to neutral I could not shift to forward because of the high rpms.

Effect: Towed to a nearby Target parking lot, got the ok to park there from the store manager until Monday (it was Sunday late in the afternoon) to have it towed to an Allison service center. After a while and trying to look up the error message on the shift key pad, I hit the power button on the cruise control and the rpms dropped to idle range. I drove the rest of the way home and had to turn the cruise on and off every time I slowed or stopped at traffic light.

Cause: The ECO Cruise malfunctioned and intermittently would set the rpms to 1100.
The company is out of business so I am in the process of replacing it with a new one from Cruise King.


Posted By: firemanmn on 10/23/05 12:49pm

RV particulars: 1997 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser
Driveline Cummins 8.3, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 42,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: Big Foot levelers acting erratic.

Symptoms: RR leveler would run on after it was retracted. LF and LR would continue to extend after I would stop extending on the control panel.

Effect: I manually tripped the 120 amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment and parked as level as I could for the last part of the trip.

Cause: Solenoids sticking on.

Remedy: I made a call to Quadra Manufacturing for some info and the tech was very helpful. He suggested I change the solenoids on the three levelers that were malfunctioning. I couldn’t find the exact replacement solenoids. I eventually found an after market solenoid from “Stens”. The terminals were 90 degrees offset from the original part, so I had to drill a new hole and resize the buss bar that connects the two solenoids on each leveler. It took about an hour for the first one and half that for the next two. It’s good to level again.


Posted By: tartan23455 on 10/29/05 07:56am

RV particulars: 1997 Mountain Aire
Driveline Cummins , Allison 6 speed
Miles: 34,000
Year: 1997
Break down Description: Coolant leak.

Symptoms: None - Green coolant all over everything

Effect: Stranded until fixed

Cause: Plastic sight glass in reciever tank blown out

Remedy: Installed plug in hole

On first trip, decided to stop at roadside vegetable market on way to Cape Hatteras NC. After stopping and as I was doing a walkaround check, found coolant all over toad and engine compartment. Found the "PLASTIC" sight glass on the coolant reciever tank was blown out. After much searching of auto parts and hardware stores within 20 miles was able to get a tap large enough and a brass pipe plug and tap out and plug the hole. The site glass is threaded in but is a bastard thread and could not find anything that would fit it. Now I must take the cap off and stick my finger in to check coolant level BEFORE engine gets hot, or wait till it cools down as the reciever tank is mounted too high to see into.


Rick & Gail Davidson
1997 MADP
1996 Jeep GC Toad


Posted By: PrairieGirl on 10/31/05 04:34pm

2003 Discovery 330 Cat Allison tranny
Our leveling jacks have recently developed a mind of their own. Sometimes they work, sometimes not. I have discovered that going through the gears (on the touchpad) I can eventually get them to extend or retract. Seems their is something NOT connecting in the neutral switch. Does anybody have any info on this kind of failure?
Ray in Oklahoma


Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of breathtaking moments we have.


Posted By: aaron lloyd on 11/05/05 06:34am

You cannot plan for all that can happen on the road as the MH has many areas it,s a home on wheels but you can stock some repairs,,carry replacment belts,hoses,fuel filter,fuses,some ele tape,,mechanics wire,,if you have a gas engine stock a spare throttle cable,,you may not be able to install the parts but having them on hand is over half the battle...ll


Posted By: CA Traveler on 11/05/05 11:47am

Quote:

Now I must take the cap off and stick my finger in to check coolant level BEFORE engine gets hot, or wait till it cools down as the reciever tank is mounted too high to see into.
Buy a small round wooden dowel and use it to check the tank level.


Posted By: Bunnz on 11/06/05 09:55pm

Had an incident this summer that was a real surprise. We were driving our 2000 Trek in Washington State on a rather steep pass with the outside temperatures in the low 100s. After about 40 minutes of slow continuous climbing, the engine quit! No engine temperature increase (based on gauges), the temp would increase, fan kick in and the temp would drop. But no excessive engine temp.
After sitting for about 90 minutes, the engine started and we completed the climb over the pass and down into the valley. Following morning I had a shop replace the fuel filter and check the engine codes with only a voltage drop being indicated. Fuel filter did not appear to be plugged. Engine has run fine every since, including pulling some good passes while pulling our Toad.
Particulars: 2000 Workhorse P32 chassis,
7.4 L Vortec gas engine,
32,000 miles,
lightly loaded, ie: fuel, water, holding tanks 1/2 full.
Fuel pump in fuel tank... sure seemed to be vaporlock but this is not supposed to occur with pressurized fuel lines.

add this to your stats wherever it might fit.


2006 38' Monaco Camelot PDQ
2006 Honda Accord (4 down)
Roadmaster Falcon tow bar
Lowrance iWay 500C
Lifetime Good Sam
FMCA F125604


Posted By: czookeeper3 on 11/07/05 09:59am

we have a 2006 Damon Tuscany motorhome w/ Cat engine, Allison transmission, 6,000 miles. lots of problems from the start, but yesterday on I70 west of Denver, CO, the engine died and the thing had to be towed. Definitely not out of diesel, mechanic not able to restart, so far do not know what the problem is. We are also experiencing leveling problems, and my favorite: the windshield is threatening to fall out at any moment. Any thoughts?


Posted By: hotjag1 on 11/13/05 04:02pm

I finally read all 42 pages.
This is a very enlightening thread.
No official tally of problems has been done yet, but from memory, there seemed to be a higher percentage of rigs running good up until shutdown for a short period of time (at rest stop or refueling)and then not restarting. Seemed odd to me.
Any explanations for this?
Don


hotjag1
2003 Allegro Bus, 3 slides, 400hp 8.9 liter Cummins



Posted By: munkalido on 11/15/05 11:20am

czookeeper3 wrote:

we have a 2006 Damon Tuscany motorhome w/ Cat engine, Allison transmission, 6,000 miles. lots of problems from the start, but yesterday on I70 west of Denver, CO, the engine died and the thing had to be towed. Definitely not out of diesel, mechanic not able to restart, so far do not know what the problem is. We are also experiencing leveling problems, and my favorite: the windshield is threatening to fall out at any moment. Any thoughts?


Sounds electrical. Don't know what to say about the windshield apart from ensuring it's sealed to avoid water damage. How's it going with the dealer/mfg?


Posted By: czookeeper3 on 11/15/05 02:57pm

Turns out our first breakdown was a fuel pump thing the freightliner guys called a "Huey" (sp?). That was fixed. Then yesterday another breakdown. It's in the shop as we speak. Not sure what it'll turn out to be this time. First indication is that one problem is a computer malfunction, but that apparently is not the whole issue. As for the windshield, we had a temporary repair done at La Mesa in San Diego. When the second breakdown occurred we were headed for the Damon factory in Elkhart, IN to have the windshield issue and hydraulics repaired. What's next is anyone's guess.


Posted By: czookeeper3 on 11/19/05 07:59am

An update on my last post. Now the mechanics, Freightliner, Cat, and Damon have agreed that a new engine is needed. Our main problem with this is that the engine was new when we took delivery on the coach in the first place. We don't have a lot of confidence in Cat or Freightliner at the moment. Also, we have to get back to the east coast (we're in CO now) and can't wait for the thing to be done. We are trying to figure the best way to accomplish that w/ 2dogs, 3 birds, and a trailer.


Posted By: juro on 11/20/05 07:19am

I think this is a wonderful idea.
We bought our Coachman and after a very short time, (after being on the road long enough for it to warm up) when we would slow down, it would try to die. I would change the fuel filter and then it would run okay.(by then it would have cooled down). I stoped at a stop sign on a busy sunday in St. Louis and had to be towed. I did not know where to get help without spending a lot of money at a dealer. I found out from other RV campers that I was having fuel pump problems. I changed the fuel pump myself and that fixed the problem.

Hope this might help someone else that is having this problem and thanks to the ones that put me on to the fuel pump problem.


Posted By: Jackjagt on 12/04/05 02:33pm

PrairieGirl wrote:

2003 Discovery 330 Cat Allison tranny
Our leveling jacks have recently developed a mind of their own. Sometimes they work, sometimes not. I have discovered that going through the gears (on the touchpad) I can eventually get them to extend or retract. Seems their is something NOT connecting in the neutral switch. Does anybody have any info on this kind of failure?
Ray in Oklahoma


Hi Ray, this type of problem usually is a LOW VOLTAGE problem. This in turn is often cause by a POOR Ground. Best bet is the clean the ground on the pump. Also check 12V conections. Use "corrosion block" liquid to keep the current flowing.. Jack


Life's a Trip!
Greyhead & a cute Brunette
07 Safari Cheetah 36PPD
02 red VW Jetta TDI toad
FMCA F226315,
Ontario OverLanders
Michigan Knights
Skype "merrieyacht'


Posted By: Merlefitz on 12/22/05 06:29pm

We have had many breakdowns, It all started with our first gas Class A. 454 GM lost a sensor in the transmission, we drove in first gear about 100 miles before we got it to shift, then 500 more miles before we could get it fixed. Then at 38,000 miles it broke a piston at the wrist pin. GM didn't want to hear of helping in any way. $900.00 later we traided for another class A. Diesel this time, that had a call back on a fuel line that would break off from viboration. Well it did and it left me on the side of the road with about 10 gal. of fuel all over my new toad. Cummins half fixed it and it continued to leak for another 1,000 miles before I could get to a cummins garage.
Then the gagues all stopped working, another thing that they knew could happen and didn't fix it before they sold it to me.
Then the pitman arm wore a hole in a front air bag and I fit the pavement on the front end. An other call back that they knew of before selling the rig.
A lot of small things and then the big trip back to the factory up in Indiana and a list of about 10 things had to be fixed, one actually got done, the called me and said it was ready, I drove two days to get ther and they sais the problems were all fixed, I ask about each one, they didn't know about any of the problems on the list, they fixed the TV antenna that had just been replaced.
The big one was last summer, we saw a notice of a call back on NorCold fridges, we called and they assured us ours was not on the recall list. So on the way fron Ga. to Me. we got in a camp ground in upstate NY and at 2:30 in the morning my wife woke up caughing. We discovered there was a lot of smoke inside seeming like it was coming out of the convection oven but was really the fridge on fire. I held it down with the fire extingusher from outside but if we had not gotton out when we did another minute or so we wouldn't have had time.
NorCold came good for the fridge buy we had a mess of smoke damage and wes set back three weeks before we got under way again.
Lets just say I wont be going to any Golf Stream Rally soon.


Posted By: Merlefitz on 12/22/05 06:33pm

Sorry I couldn't get spell check to work the usual way.


Posted By: Merlefitz on 12/22/05 06:52pm

Also see the petition in these forums, I signed it because the dealers and manufactures will not fix things under warrantee and put out a lot of trash and expect us to turn the other cheek and stop complaining so much.


Posted By: garyrb3 on 01/04/06 07:37pm

our new class a diesel pusher (99)was the trouble free answer to fulltime rving,NOT!!! at 8000 mi a fuel line broke, cummings knew of the problem but no recall, had to be towed from rufus,OR to pendleton, OR. 100 mile!! 3 days later on the road again, or next problem happened after leaving laughtlin nv. a hi pressure injector line broke while we were climbing up from the river and could not stop till igot to the top. wife smell diesel but no where to stop till we reached a service station. buy than there was fuel every where, wish it would have caught fire!!! found out after getting tow to vegas that a support for #4 injector line was broke, all was fixed under warranty,, and thank god for good sam emergency road service, they paid the tow

99 georgieboy 36ft.crusiemaster,275 cummings 6sp,99 dakota pickup tow.


Posted By: jimnbonnie on 01/11/06 05:40pm

2004 Georgetown with Triton V10. Lost power steering on Pacific Coast Hiway near Eureka, CA. Seal ruptured at top of pump. Entire pump replaced. Under 12000 miles. Runs fine, but it was scary for a couple of minutes.





Posted By: Ozarkwoods on 01/16/06 07:00am

Excellent Thread! If I would suggest one thing though is to remind the members that post to list the information as the author requests, that will give us all a data base and a results that is easier to analyze. This way when this thread gets huge and it will, it will be easier for us to search by it's symptoms, make, engine type etc. Thanks for the thread.

A brand new newbie,
Randy


Full timing since June 2013
Randy and Annie
2005 Tiffin Zephyr
Cummins ISM
Spartan K2
2009 Wrangler unlimited Rubicon towed



Posted By: Yosemitebobr on 01/16/06 12:16pm

RV particulars:


Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Work Horse 8.1, Allison

Miles:28,000

Year: 2003

Break Down Description:
Ran over a several pieces of a tire in the highway from some vehicle, presumably a truck.

Symptoms:
none at all just decided to pull over and check the tires.

Effect: a gash on the inside rear

Cause: tire remnants in highway

Outcome:
Had to replace the tire. If I had not stopped and checked it out I would be paying for a lot more than just the tire and change.

BobR


YosemiteBobR (Bob) GoodSam Club Life Member
Keystone Cougar 311 - TV is 2013 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, with 6.7 Diesel
24' Sea Ray bow rider,
Two Labordoddles one white one brown
My DW the co-pilot/navigator

GROWING OLDER IS MANDATORY, GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL


Posted By: Fulltimers on 01/30/06 10:42pm

RV particulars:


Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison

Miles:
12,000

Year:
2003

Break Down Description:
Stopped for lunch, took 3 tries to start. Next stop at campground, took 3 tries to start.

Symptoms:
Took at least three, five second tries to start. Ran great after starting

Effect:
None

Cause:
Plugged Fuel Filter causing low fuel pressure at start. Took 3 tries to build enough pressure to start engine.

Outcome:
Replaced fuel filter. Also replaced fuel pump for good measure. 3,000 miles later, No problem since. All done under Warranty.


Fulltimers
Fulltimers Weblog
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W-22 Workhorse
2001 Saturn SC2 (Mr. Toad)
Photos




Posted By: Fulltimers on 01/30/06 10:53pm

RV particulars:


Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison

Miles:
1000
1500
10000

Year:
2003

Break Down Description:
Engine Missfire

Symptoms:
Rough idle, low power,

Effect:
None

Cause:
#5 spark plug boot burnt

Outcome:
1000 miles, replaced plug wire
1500 miles replaced plug wire, added Workhorse vent kit
10000 miles replaced plug wire with new design from Workhorse, directed vent kit outlet directly at #5 plug per Workhorse’s instructions. 5000 miles later, no failure.


Posted By: mowmunny on 02/05/06 06:59pm

2004 bounder, 300 cummins, 10,000 miles. Near Ft Myers Fl. Bounder would only go 30 mph. Check engine light on. Towed to cummins in Ft. Myers. Checked out engine with no results. Installed new fuel pump and sent us on our way. Went to Naples Fl. On our way home we made it to tampa with the same problem reoccuring. Towed to Tampa cummins dealer. Checked engine and found no problem Installed new fuel pump and sent us on our way. Near the Fl./ Ga. line same problem occured. we made it to Albany Ga. to the Cummins dealer. (cummins southeastern). In about 30 minutes they discovered an in line fuel filter between the fuel tank and the regular fuel filter. The in line was clogged with what looked like bad fuel.(varnish). We were finally on our way to Indy with no more problems. We had taken 3 weeks vacation and most of this was spent in cummins dealerships. Thank you cummins in Albany Ga. This is a group that is courteous and apparently the most knowledgable diesel mechanics in the south.


Don
2004 Bounder
300 Cummins ISB
Freightliner
2003 Alero
FMCA # 363891/Coachnet


Posted By: Jackjagt on 02/09/06 12:33pm

RV particulars: HR Imperial 94
Driveline: Cummins 8.3C, Allison World
Miles: 125k
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Sudden power loss, no steering assist
Symptoms: Hot dash A/C wiring
Effect: hot wires heated the resetable ignition circuit breaker causing engine shut down unexpectedly.

This would happen on damp rainy days when I would run the winsheild demist setting on the dash heater/AC. Sudden power loss was traced to curcuit panel under heat vent under dash.

Avoided problem by relocated panel to cooler location and moved the "hot curcuit" from below the ignition curcuit.

Now refrain from using the winsheild demist setting until I figure out whats causing the dash AC to draw so much current that it heats the wiring so much. Dash AC no longer operative.


Posted By: au_ee on 02/09/06 04:33pm

RV particulars: 1994 Winnebago Brave on P30 Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy, Chevy
Miles:~35K
Year:2000
Break Down Description: How is this different from Symptons?
Symptoms:Transmission shifted down to 2nd gear and stayed there.
Effect:Limped to nearest exit on interstate.
Causehift transducer needed replacing.
Outcome:After transmission repair ran normally.

RV particulars:1994 Winnebago Brave on P30 Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)hevy, Chevy
Miles:~38k
Year:2000
Break Down Description: Driving near Mt. Rushmore, going down a hill and engine cut off. Pulled over to a pullout and parked.
Symptomsngine just stopped running and would not restart.
Effect:Luckily there was a convenient pullout and we werent' going very fast. If happened 1/4 mile later we would have been on much steeper decline and could have been a bad day.
Cause:After being towed to Rapid City chevrolet dealer and much trouble shooting, the mechanic found that a wiring bundle which was routed over the intake tube for the air cond. compressor had an over wrap that gaped open. A wire inside had the insulation rubbed off and exposed wire shorted to the a/c compressor intake tube.
Outcomee-insulated the wire, fixed the over wrap and MH ran like new.


Posted By: masfae on 02/13/06 10:26am

Badeye, you sound like my husband (a PhD.) I think it is a wonderful idea to collect any type of data! It is good of you do give your time and I am surely one who will appreciate reading your results. Thank in advance.


Posted By: WeBrzn2 on 02/13/06 04:18pm

RV particulars: Western RV Alpine Avalanche

Driveline: Cummins ISC 350 and Allison MH3060

Miles: 4,500

Year: 2004

Symptoms: Noticed considerable diesel fuel contamination on toad and back of motorhome after climbing 6% grade.

Break down description: No actual breakdown, just concern for fire hazard and paint condition on toad.

Remedy: Took the unit to Cummins facility and found, after considerable troubleshooting that the high pressure fuel lines (could not determine which one due to fogging) were leaking only under significant load. Cummins replaced all high pressure fuel lines and cleaned the engine and radiator. Issue has not recurred.


2004 Alpine Avalanche DP
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
2005 Mini Cooper S
2000 Vette FRC (for the track)


Posted By: charlesdrex on 02/22/06 05:58pm

I just joined the forum and I'm glad to have read your article being a first-timer. Your experience, information and thought is very helpful.


Posted By: jkill2001 on 02/25/06 09:02pm

RV particulars:

Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
ford 460

Miles:
27,00
Year:
1996
Break Down Description:
pulled off to the side of the road with trailer in tow and put flashers on. left unit for 1 min, passenger inside told me that smelt like wires burning. come to find out flasher fried
Symptoms: couldn't shift out of park cause blew a fuse for the brake signal
Effect:
flasher fried no turn signals and couldn't shift out of park cause blew a fuse for the brake signal
Cause: too many lights flashing off of a 2 pin mechanical flasher
Outcome:
had to end up getting towed after paying 800 bucks to find out it was a fuse that i had in the coach. replaced fuse and replaced flasher with a 3 pin electronic flasher. now that motorhome is being traded in.


Posted By: wilderness walker on 03/02/06 06:05pm

RV Particulars: Winnebago Sightseer
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
ford 6.8 liter V10
Miles: 26,666
Year:2003
Break Down Description: Engine wouldn't fire, battery power good, gas tank full, fuses good.
Cause: self-tapping screws used someplace under the bed were screwed into fuel pump wiring harness eventually breaking through wires.
Outcome:
had to get towed 75 miles, watching repair shop drain 90 gallons from a supposed 75 gallon tank, they dropped the gas tank to get at the fuel pump (we originally thought it was the fuel pump) and found the exposed and broken wiring. This is the 3rd instance we've had with Winnebago and their self-tapping screw problem. They fall out all over the place (causing 1 flat tire). I just have to wonder if they have any idea what they are screwing into when they build their bodies!


Walker girl


Posted By: mibearbait on 03/06/06 11:00am

I had a breakdown this year along I70. I had to call for service using the Newmar Club service. The vendor they sent was able to assist in getting the unit started and I drove it to the nearest truck stop. The truck stop replaced the fuel filter, but this didn't resolve the problem. They checked the computer code, which was a 164-2. They stopped at that point, as the vehicle is still under warranty, they were not authorized to work on Cat engine. We set there for two days waiting for the Cat parts store and service center to open. The local cat dealer determined that the problem was associated with a sensor telling the computer that the engine was having erratic oil pressure, causing the computer to shut the engine down. Sensor was replaced and problem appears to have been resolved.


2004 Newmar Dutchstar
Grand Cherokee Toad
Garmin 7200 GPS

Always remember that you are unique, just like everyone else.



Posted By: craigpiette on 03/06/06 03:13pm

1996 Monaco Exec. purchased used 7/03
no start ... short in ignition wire ... bypassed to battery drawer ... now I have a surefire anti theft device:attery drain while driving and died as we coasted to a spot of safety ... thought it was alternator ... many hours, new alternator, new batteries, head scratching time later ... the "Isolator" was burnt ... 50 cent piece of wire later it was bypassed and I was headed down the road ::after successful fishing trip deep in Canada rig started to buck then died ... thought it was dirty fuel filters ... after a $1500 tow, diagnosis fuel pump ... 2 days later it arrived ... on down the road

Thats all folks!


Posted By: Fulltimers on 03/06/06 10:34pm

RV particulars:

Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Work Horse 8.1, Allison

Miles:
12000

Year:
2003

Break Down Description:
Hard Start

Symptoms:
Took 3 tries to start

Effect:
Once started motorhome ran fine, no power loss, no missing or bucking

Cause:
Plugged Fuel Filter

Outcome:
Engine takes 55 psi fuel pressure to start. First try fuel pressure was 30psi, second try fuel pressure was 40psi, third try finally enough psi to start. Once started psi was high enough to run fine.


Posted By: jmbarber on 03/07/06 08:23pm

I recently broke down in Mazatlan. The problem was an overheating engine. It turned out that radiator fan stopped working. After several phone calls to Freightliner, I was advised to drain the Dexron III ATF in the hydraulic reservoir, flush the lines and replace the ATF with 15-40 motor oil. It worked! It seems that, in some applications, ATF is a little too thin to turn the fan properly. In my case, the fan stopped but I was able to get it to run again by starting it by hand. It would then run but only at about half-speed...not enough to cool the engine properly. After changing out the ATF for 15-40 engine oil, the fan ran like a wildcat. It seems that some applications need a slightly thicker hydraulic oil to work properly.


Jerry


Posted By: mattpoland on 03/10/06 10:41pm

RV particulars: 2003 Fleetwood Expedition 38N
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Freightliner, Cummins ISB 300hp, Allison 3000
Miles: 24500
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Starter failed on my first trip at 24500 miles. This also happened to the original owner on his first trip. My coach has the 3rd starter in it and has less than 30k miles.

Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause: Freightliner says failure both times was from trying to start the motor while the engine was running. Freighliner mechanic says this is common on the ISB's and that the starter is too light duty. Giant RV Murreita delivered a coach with a starter on its last leg twice... Freightliner tried to say it was driver error but so far has paid for it under warranty.
Outcome:


Posted By: JoeT on 03/11/06 10:39am

RV particulars: 2006 Tiffin Phaeton 40 QDH
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): CAT C7 350hp, Allison 3000mh
Miles: 5426
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: started engine to leave campground. pressed button to retract jacks and heard a loud sound like air escaping. could not get front air pressure to come up with jacks retracted. lowered jacks and front air came up to 120 lbs. retracted jacks and lost air again.
Symptoms: low front air pressure with jacks retracted.
Effect: air bags would not inflate
Cause: quick connect air hose blew off of right front air bag.
Outcome: called Coachnet and they sent truck service who reconnected air hose.


Joe & Loretta
2012 Winnebago View24M



Posted By: millikeg on 03/16/06 10:02am

RV particulars: 2005 Coachmen Cross Country DP

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Freightliner XC chassis, Cummins 300HP ISB, Allison 2500 (5 speed)

Miles: 19,000

Year: 2005

Break Down Description: Last used MH in mid-January. No engine problems since we purchased it new. Early February, MH in driveway, preparing to leave that afternoon for FL. Engine would crank but would not start. No problems of any sort since acquiring new. Called ERS for assistance. They showed up within an hour. Field tech from authorized Freightliner repairer pulled code for "Low Fuel Pressure". He tried for two hours to determine problem. He advised fuel wasn't getting to top of engine and suspected fuel injection pump. Left MH and drove SUV to FL with 6 people in vehicle that night. Upon return from vacation, was towed to repairer's shop. Tech was correct. High Pressure fuel injection pump was replaced. All costs taken care of through warranty.

Symptoms: Engine would crank but would not turn over. Check engine light came on. Field tech advised code was for "Low Fuel Pressure".

Effect: Had to be towed.

Cause: Replaced high pressure fuel injection pump under warranty.

Outcome: Everything covered under warranty. Service and level of response from Tri-State Truck in Shrewsbury, MA (authorized warranty shop for Freightliner) was outstanding!

* This post was edited 03/16/06 10:10am by millikeg *


2004 Coachmen Sportscoach Elite 402 TS



Posted By: richardp3 on 03/16/06 04:09pm

1997 Monaca Dynasty, Cummins 8.3 325hp, 59000 miles. Heading down the road last week to Glen Rose my tach started acting eratic. Pretty soon the tach stopped working altogether. Volt meter reading was just below 12v. I don't know much, but I do know the tach works off the alternator. I knew it wouldn't be too long before the engine used up the batteries. I had the wife crank up the genset and turn on the inverter. This kept us running to our destination and all the way back after the trip was over. Haven't had it fixed yet.


1997 Monaco Dynasty Baron III 38'
Me, Her, 3 kids,a dog and a cat.



Posted By: mattpoland on 03/28/06 09:21pm

RV particulars: 03 Fleetwood Expedition 38N
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): ISB, 300hp
Miles: 31500
Year: 03
Break Down Description: This is a triple slide unit with the Fridge mounted to the inside of the slideout. The fridge is mounted in two places, the front top and the back bottom. The front top mount came undone, pulling the cabinet away from the wall.

Effect:
Cause: Poor design. Insufficient mounting hardware to handle the weight of the fridge.
Outcome: This is a common problem, however, as a second owner Fleetwood will not repair it. The bid to repair to orignial specs is $1000. I am going to take it to another shop or try to find someone to create a better mounting system because I do not want this to happen again.


Posted By: lonestarfl on 03/31/06 03:24am

Jackjagt wrote:

RV particulars: HR Imperial 94
Driveline: Cummins 8.3C, Allison World
Miles: 125k
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Sudden power loss, no steering assist
Symptoms: Hot dash A/C wiring
Effect: hot wires heated the resetable ignition circuit breaker causing engine shut down unexpectedly.

This would happen on damp rainy days when I would run the winsheild demist setting on the dash heater/AC. Sudden power loss was traced to curcuit panel under heat vent under dash.

Avoided problem by relocated panel to cooler location and moved the "hot curcuit" from below the ignition curcuit.

Now refrain from using the winsheild demist setting until I figure out whats causing the dash AC to draw so much current that it heats the wiring so much. Dash AC no longer operative.


I would look to see if the AC compressor is on its last leg. My Beaver coach kept tripping the 30a breaker everytime I would turn on the dash AC. Everything look OK on inspection, so we replaced the circuit breaker. Then when the electric clutch on the compressor would engage the wires got warm..pulling in excess of 20a. Once the compressor was replaced the loads went back to normal and the dash air was cold again.
Lee


Posted By: milesmotorsinc on 04/03/06 11:08pm

I'm a small used RV dealer and drive many different RV's every month 450 miles back home. I plan for the worst and hope for the best but when your buying RV's with out the option to drive them first so times you get stung. I have most experence with gas powered 1989 - 1999 RV's It's great your doing this research and I hope my info can help.

Most to least common problems:

Tires - Used RV's tires are used and I have found over or under inflation as well as driving to fast to be the number 1 problem. Soulution buy new tires at least fronts/

Hanging brakes - Chevy bad brake hose or hoses. Ford sticking caliber

Ford fuel pumps on the fuel injected units mostly 1996 model RV's

Ford loss of power burnt up plugs or wires

1994 Fleetwood Flair sheered distributor pin ( I don't like Flairs)

No one likes to break down the stress level is off the chart and all at once. Just remember to stay calm relax and think. Most of the time what seems like a major problem is not and you can save time and money if you go at it alone.

Thats all for now tires and sticky brakes mostly. I'm just glad I drive them this far and deal with these common problems so my customers don't have to. There's a good tip when buying used ask the sales man, "How far did YOU drive it".


Posted By: ygohome on 04/04/06 02:42pm

Thank you for the information. This is so impressive that as a dealer you have taken the time to help us beware of possible troubles.
Only wish you were in this area. The best known dealer has been the most difficult to do business with after the sale. Fact known by many RV owners.


Posted By: toetagger11 on 04/04/06 08:22pm

Badeye...super Idea!!02 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 330 Cummins ISC 3000MH 6 speed Allison,15000 Miles. After fueling drove home and fortunately while in front of my house.The Check-trans light came on and the touch-plate shifter was not lighted. Unit would not shift into reverse,or anything!!! shut it off while in drive. Could not get it started afterwards. Spent 4 days trying to find someone that had a stinger long enough to reach the front axle,(another story). Had it towed to authorized Allison rep and learned that the ECU ( electronic control unit) the "brains" of the transmission was electrically burned up and had shorted out. Allison explains, sometimes "IT" happens. No charge,under warranty @ Allison and finally Good Sam decided to pick up the tow tab after 4 days of them trying to locate someone that knew how to tow a 38' diesel pusher. Hoping "IT" doesn't happen too often, cause we're leaving for Alaska this summer.


Posted By: gearhead-ken on 04/09/06 01:20am

RV particulars: 31 ft 1986 Crosscountry by sportscoach, P-30 chassis

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 454, Turbo 400 transmission

Miles: 48,000 +/-

Year: 1986

Break Down Description: Transmission failure. My wife, grandson and myself left San Diego for our trip to Lake Tahoe, we took hwy 395. I was towing my jeep wrangler and the transmission temperature gauge (that I had installed several years earlier) started to climb a little but it was within operating limits. I noticed that when starting from a stop I had to manually place the transmission in 1st gear to get it to start in first if I did not, it would start in second gear. We decided to stop for the night in a little town called Lone Pine at a RV park. The next morning the transmission would not shift out of first gear at all. the transmission overheated and was disabled in a turnaround on hwy 395. I let it cool off and was able to limp it back to Lone Pine to a auto repair and towing facility. the transmission was toast and I had to order a remanufactured transmission from AC-Delco. 3 days and $2,500 later we were back on the road to Tahoe. We had an unplanned 3 day stay in Lone Pine.

More history about my rig: the transmission that failed had been rebuilt twice already, the first time by the original owner at around 25,000 miles right before I purchased the rig, the second time when I owned the rig at around 37,000 miles, 2 years prior to the failure at Lone Pine. The transmission shop that rebuilt it at 37,000 miles guarantied it for only 12,000 miles or one year, the breakdown in Lone Pine happened 2 years after, so it was already out of warranty. I was very careful taking every measure to keep the transmission running cool. When I first purchased the motorhome I installed an external transmission cooler (I could not believe that it didn't have one) with an electric puller fan mounted to it. Later I installed a second transmission cooler with another electric fan. I changed the transmission fluid and filter much more frequently than recommended.

My opinion is that my rig was just too heavy and pulling my jeep was just too much. Although the transmission failed before even before I started to tow my jeep.


Posted By: JohnMB on 04/17/06 05:31pm

The rig is a '99 Dutchstar/ Freightliner/ CAT 3126B

31,000 miles

Drove from Indio, CA to El Paso. Pulled into the Flying J at Anthony to overnight. As I parked, the dash panel went dead and the engine died. Would not restart although engine would turn over with the starter. Dash panel showed no sign of the ignition being on. It was late so I went to bed. Got up next morning and the dash came back to life. Stopped at Freightliner on the way out of town and bought spare relays for the ignition system.
Next day was pulling into a Louisiana rest area at mile marker 2 on I-20 when the dash panel went dead again and the engine died. Checked everything I could think of and went to bed, planning to get a wrecker the next day. Next morning it was alive again so I drove on. Got 230 miles further East and was passing a truck while going 70. Panel died, tach and speedometer dropped to zero and I got it to the shoulder. Crawled under and on it for four hours with a test set with no solution. Got a wrecker and a Loadall to carry to Empire Freightliner in Jackson, MS. They got on it 24 hours later and, again, it started up.

I have a 135 amp main breaker on order 'cause every "teck" at Gaffney says that is what it sounds like but I know they are wrong. I put a test set on that breaker while it was dead and, anyway, the starter would have been dead if it was open.

Plan to drive for eight hours next week never getting over 20 miles from Empire Freightliner. I have the shop foremans phone number on speed dial in my cell phone.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,

John Brewer


Posted By: texasreb on 04/19/06 06:58pm

Burned up coach wiring after having inverter/charger replaced with a Xantrex RS3000. After installation, I was driving from Lewisville to Richardson, Texas in mid December 2005. Generator was on. Smelled burning wiring. Shut off gen and all electrical power and limped into storage facility. Disconnected batteries and all electrical and called Xantrex the following Monday. This was my second RS3000 in three months. The first had continual faults that Xantrex finally admitted were due to bad software. Xantrex finally agreed to replace the first unit with another one which had even worse problems than the first unit. They would not pay anything significant for repair to my coach even though Buddy Gregg, their service rep, agreed that the inverter had caused the problem. Overall it cost me about $6000 dollars and seven months of lost coach use to get the problem resolved. What a nightmare!

1998 CC Magna
Xantrex RS3000 inverter (POS!)
Replaced with an Prosine 3.0 (has worked for two weeks??)
36K miles


Posted By: methomas on 05/18/06 02:02am

Is it common for Class A Winnebago Sunrise to have problems with the hydraulic stabilization units... leveled OK but stabilization unit defective. [ended up we found a leak quickly]

Dealership replaced with a big apology and a few other very minor things on warranty, also, we convinced them to give us an extra 4 hours of brand new owners classes no charge. (brand new off lot as of 4/2006)...

[Mantanace man, Randy, said this was very uncommon especially on a Winnebago Sunrise.]

Very happy with the attitude of "we want to make your buying and maintanace needs no problem." E-mail me if you want a recommendation on who to buy from. DFW, TX area...


those who move often, get instruction on how to be friendly


Posted By: Roark Family on 05/30/06 07:26pm

This is a wonderful thread. Badeye, I'd love to get the section dealing the Thor/Four Winds Hurricane. Pulsar brought up a good idea. The NHTSA, how did I search their database for rv specific recalls? I just tried and came up with the current month list and it covered all recalls. Other point, with all the repairs that I have read about, why aren't the manufactures making solutions/recalls for all of these common problems? I'm supposed to take delivery of my first MH and now I'm starting to have second thoughts.

I don't want to be a part-time mechanic while I'm trying to be on a relaxing family fun vacation. Can someone please help me understand?


Four Winds 2002 Hurricane 33SL
Family of 7
Husband, wife, 2 kids
2 dogs, 1 parrot (solomon island eclectus, male)


Posted By: UNYboater on 05/30/06 08:05pm

RV particulars:'94 Coachman on a Spartan chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 230hp 5.9l with a 6-sp Allison
Miles:40,000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: Shut off engine with the key & it kept running.....and running! I called the shop that does my maintenance & they put my mechanic on the line. He had me check the solenoid to see if it was stuck; he also suggested that I pull the connector that powers the solenoid if it wasn't 'stuck'.
Cause: Spring return for fuel solenoid missing & solenoid wouldn't close.
Outcome: Found solenoid & moved it closed by hand.


Posted By: GoinPlaces on 06/04/06 03:38pm

We've just bought our new motor home (2006 Newmar Scottsdale) and drove it home (a 150 mile trip one way), parked it in the driveway, and began planning and packing for our first vacation. We were to leave tomorrow morning, but now we can't because our automatic leveling jacks won't come down. They're stuck. We had driven it only to gas up, then returned home with it, and now can't get the jacks to come down. We've called the manufacturer of the leveling jacks for help. They tried over the phone to walk us through some things to see if it would work, but NO luck. Now, we've got to postpone the vacation, and make the 300 mile roundtrip back to the dealership for them to work on it. I'm having major anxiety attacks about what we have gotten ourselves into. We're not even out of the driveway yet! At least it is fixable, we think, and it is drivable. When our friends heard we bought a new RV, they all have said, "Oh, you're going to have so much fun!". I am beginning to seriously wonder if the fun will ever happen!


Posted By: kboyt on 06/04/06 06:21pm

On a trip to Cypress-Black Bayou Park out of Bossier LA., We had been on the road about 30 min when my coach started downshifting. I pulled over and the transmission shifted ok and I started traveling again, I had traveled about 5 miles and downed shifted again. I pulled over and checked the fluid leave in the transmission, ok, started up again and drove about 40 miles trouble again, this time an error code appeared,after slowing down I was able to return to speed limit and drive to United Engines in Shreveport. The tech read the Allison code and said I was losing electrical power to the transmission control unit. After 4 HRs of searching and repairing, we found that the mfg. had routed the main start battery cable and a bundle of control wires through a rubber covered bracket at the top of the motor under the bed. The rubber had rubbed off and cut into the wires and had burned some of the wires into. Looked like someone had burned the bundle with a torch. 2002 36' Foretravel with 400 Cummings and 6 speed Allison. 30,000 mi at time of tbl. This fire was only 14" under the bed, lucky we did not have a coach fire, No help from Foretravel. Coach was out of warranty in Jan. and this occurred in May.


Posted By: Roark Family on 06/05/06 05:36am

GoinPlaces wrote:

We've just bought our new motor home (2006 Newmar Scottsdale) and drove it home (a 150 mile trip one way), parked it in the driveway, and began planning and packing for our first vacation. We were to leave tomorrow morning, but now we can't because our automatic leveling jacks won't come down. They're stuck. We had driven it only to gas up, then returned home with it, and now can't get the jacks to come down. We've called the manufacturer of the leveling jacks for help. They tried over the phone to walk us through some things to see if it would work, but NO luck. Now, we've got to postpone the vacation, and make the 300 mile roundtrip back to the dealership for them to work on it. I'm having major anxiety attacks about what we have gotten ourselves into. We're not even out of the driveway yet! At least it is fixable, we think, and it is drivable. When our friends heard we bought a new RV, they all have said, "Oh, you're going to have so much fun!". I am beginning to seriously wonder if the fun will ever happen!



Being a 1st timer my self, we've heard that buying a brand new MH is like buying a brand new house. There will be kink and quirks that need to be worked out at the begining. Then everything should be fine and only regular maintenance is all that is needed. Accepting that expectation will calm you down.

Unfortunatly it's not like buying a new car. Because we're so used to buying new cars and expect them to be perfect, we approach the brand new MH with the same expectation. It's just not that way. I believe it should be that way, but I can't change an entire industry.

Just keep a positive attitude and you'll be able to rack up those life long family memories.


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 06/05/06 02:14pm

GoinPlaces wrote:

We've just bought our new motor home (2006 Newmar Scottsdale) and drove it home (a 150 mile trip one way), parked it in the driveway, and began planning and packing for our first vacation. We were to leave tomorrow morning, but now we can't because our automatic leveling jacks won't come down. They're stuck. We had driven it only to gas up, then returned home with it, and now can't get the jacks to come down. We've called the manufacturer of the leveling jacks for help. They tried over the phone to walk us through some things to see if it would work, but NO luck. Now, we've got to postpone the vacation, and make the 300 mile roundtrip back to the dealership for them to work on it. I'm having major anxiety attacks about what we have gotten ourselves into. We're not even out of the driveway yet! At least it is fixable, we think, and it is drivable. When our friends heard we bought a new RV, they all have said, "Oh, you're going to have so much fun!". I am beginning to seriously wonder if the fun will ever happen!


The failed jacks shouldn't stop your trip. Even those of us who've been spoiled by jacks know some boards under the tires will do the job... just a little more hastle. I'd have taken the trip, then returned to dealer on the way home. You'll likely find more glitches on the trip anyway, and the dealer can take care of them, saving another 300 mile round trip later; though eventually you'll have to have scheduled service anyway.

You made no mistake with your purchase, esp. buying a Newmar product. So quit fretting. The anxiety will ruin your experience if you let it, and you'll eventually see that it is unfounded. Like the previous commentor implied, these rigs are complicated bundles of components, any one or more of which will go haywire. It is not the end of the world - just get the glitches fixed under warranty after heavy first season's use to ferret them all out. As long as you don't let constant worry get in the way, you'll have a rig full of fun in the process.

* This post was edited 06/05/06 02:22pm by 1/2 Canadian *


Posted By: marbilupton on 06/10/06 10:01pm

We have a Winnebago Voyage on a 2006 Ford V10 chasis. It has just over 2000 miles on it. Stayed at a KOA last night and pulled out of our space this morning and went to the dump site to empty our tanks. Getting ready to pull out, the engine wouldn't crank. No matter what I did, it was just dead. Called our emergency road service and they sent a wrecker. The guy asked me what was wrong and I told him. He said he would like to check because it may be better to try to fix it than tow it to a Ford dealer. After about thirty minutes of crawling around under it, he discovered a wire that was dead. He said it ran from the starter to the battery. He shorted out the wires for the starter somehow and it cranked! Once he got it started I drove it 50 miles to the nearest Ford dealer who could service a big rig and left it. They will look at it Monday and let me know what the diagnosis is. Hope it isn't anything complicated because we were on our way to Ohio when this happened. Stuff Happens!!


Retired Navy, 39 Years
2005 Winnebago Voyage 35D
2006 Honda Crv
Blue OX Alexus Tow Bar
Brake Buddy


Posted By: jandcr on 06/14/06 05:59pm

Just about on topic, but I thought I would update on something. The issue of roadside assistance changing the inside dual. I know there have been some discussions on this in the past. I talked to my AAA rep today and she researched. AAA standard coverage DOES cover the inside dual - at least Oregon AAA does. Deleting roadside coverage from our Progessive insurance thru AAA for a nice little saving was the right thing to do. It is noted on our AAA membership data in writing. She also said if anyone ever does charge we should just keep the receipt and they will reimburse when we get home.


Posted By: fhalasz on 06/22/06 09:35pm

All RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins ISC 350, Allison 3000MH
Miles: About 35000 (then); 43000 (now)
Year:2001
Break Down Description: Erratic gauge display, engine stumble.
Symptomspeedometer would flick up to maximum, then back to correct road speed, at irregular intervals (generally less than one minute apart.) At the same moment, engine would stumble, but recover to full power.
Effect: Disconcerting but driveable.
Cause: Unsure (see below)
Outcomeorrected itself after several miles at low speed during a detour.
Recurred several days (and many miles) later. Took it to Cummins in Albuquerque on return home; they could not duplicate the problem (but charged for trying.)
Eventually I crawled under the coach and inspected two wires connected to tranny where illustration indicated the speed sensor output might be. Wires looked good; disconnected and re-connected them anyway. The problem has not recurred.

BTW, where is the compilation of all these problems? It's a lot to read through!


Posted By: RV CONUS on 06/24/06 08:04am

January 2006

Fifty miles from home in a class c, A Flat
200 miles from home A Blowout
250 miles from home Fuel Filter Failure.

Took 6 days to go 500 miles.

June 2006

Engine timing sensor failed. Power Steering, warning flashers failed. An RV dealer (reputable?) improperly installed a controller for a tow dolly. Positive wired to the solenoid, negative to the frame. Can't prove it caused the failures, Go Figure. OBTW the RV dealer is out of Panama City, Florida. At first he agreed to reimburse for the full labor to fix the problem, then agreed to 2 hours labor reimbursement. However, after he talked to the tech, the tech said he did not wire it improperly and someone changed the wiring during the 1200 miles I had travelled. Makes since to me, I stopped at a Texas Rest area to use WIFI, got bored went out and changed the wiring. Will Never See a Dime. Will Carefully refer customers to him every opportunity I have. It is my sincere desire that his 14 year business thrives. Or, maybe he can retire buy a MH and have his Tech install a controller on it.

Not bad after 33 years of minor RV problems, with one prior fuel filter failure in 2004.


2006 Allegro 34WA, Workhorse W20, Allison 6 speed
2013 Chevrolet Sonic LTZ
TST 507RV TPMS
2009 Blue Ox Aventa LX
2009 Brake Buddy
Swagman XC-2



Posted By: Puddin12 on 06/27/06 02:23pm

1992 Winnebago Minnie Winnie
7.5 L EFI engine, Ford E-350 Chassis
45,000 Miles

Spring of 1998, when first purchased this used motorhome, had a flat tire on the right outside rear. (Not Michelins) Didn't know about tires aging out. Put new Michelins on, LTX 225/75R 16E A/S. (Came with 16Ds) Just replaced those with the same, except M/S, seventh year, with 29,000 miles on them. Excellent service with Michelins.

In April, 2003, On I-40 West of Nashville, left front brake smoking. Pulled in trouble lane. Called highway patrol. After letting it cool, he got me 2 miles up the road to Rest Area. Let it cool some more, and drove the 30 miles on to my destination (camp ground). Brake company came out and said it was a caliper or line, and the only way to know, was to replace one or the other, and see if it happened again??????? I had them replace the calipers and lines on both front wheels. Who wants to chance that in the mountains????? I might mention I had the front brakes redone just before I left, but they didn't do calipers and lines. All of the brake work totaled $1,600. My son thinks I got ripped off, but near Nashville, they had to special order parts, as they were heavier duty than a Ford E-350 truck.

The next April, with about 46,500 miles on it, transmission went out coming home from Bristol race. Had it rebuilt, and no problems since, with about 20,000 miles on it, mostly mountains.


Posted By: mngolfer on 06/28/06 11:28am

We had a 1989 E350 RV and had problems with the brakes hanging up. Finally figured out the flexible brake hoses from the chassis to the calipers were acting like a one way valve. They had deteriorated internally. Replaced both hoses and that fixed the problem


Posted By: Puddin12 on 06/30/06 10:22pm

I have read several posts where people incidated they had to have their rig towed, and much it cost. Doesn't everyone have roadside service with their insurance? We have Progressive, and I also have U. S. Rider, because Progressive will not tow my trailer with the horses in it, and U. Sl. Rider will.


Posted By: jag70r on 07/02/06 03:19pm

I would like to add my two cents regarding overheating in a class A Motorhome. A couple of years ago while driving on I-5 south bound near Bakersfield CA suddenly I discovered the heat gauge went off the scale,steam everywhere. What led up to this was the fact that the old familiar noisy radiator clutch fan had been silent for a few miles and the heat was building up in the engine and it blew an over looked rubber hose that goes from the water pump to the intake manifold just a little hose that appeared to be o.k. when all the others were replaced it wasn't.I did not look for the obvious and I assumed it was a freeze plug because the steam and water seemed to come from the side of the block.I had us towed in and it was just a big mess all around with loss time and etc. Lessoned learned is obvious. Those clutch fans are a nuisense when they come on because they are so noisy but watch out if they don't. This was on a 454 engine by the way and the second clutch I went thru in three years.


Posted By: GBMcruisair on 07/06/06 08:43pm

2000 Georgie Boy 32' Pursuit
7.4 Workhorse 4 speed
trouble description: wouldn't shift, lost dash gauges, quit.
Coming home from 80 mile trip, everything was running fine, had to stop for a stoplight, when getting back up to speed wouldn't shift past second. Since I was only 10 miles from home I thought I'd limp home. After 5 miles gas gauge, ammeter, and oil pressure gauges quit, in another mile tach and speedo quit and then finally the engine quit. Rolled to the side and started checking wires, found gauge fuse was blown. Replaced the 20amp fuse and MH started right up and ran normally. Still can,t figure out why things failed in sequence and not all at once. DW thought she smelled hot wiring, will check ign switch next.


Kip & Judy
2000 Georgie Boy Pursuit, 2001 Cherokee toad
1951 Pontiac with 400cu GTO running gear
1964 Corvair Monza all original



Posted By: schwalme on 08/09/06 09:12am

RV particulars: Safara Sahara
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ummings Diesel with an allison 6 speed tranny
Miles: 78,000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: I was driving South on I-5 after a week-end at a LaConner Campground while climbing a slight incline near Everett Wa. The outside temperature was the high 80's. I had just had the normal service done to the engine by Cummings NW. The engine just cut out on me with no warning. I shut it down restarted it and got off to the side of the road. It would idle however when I put it into gear it would quit. I waited for an hour the was able to drive another 40 min. Freeway driving and stop and go in places before it quit again once again on a small incline two block from my house. I immediately re started and drove the two blocks and parked it.
Symptoms: No previous simptoms.
Effect:
Cause:unknown purged the water seperator no water. Stabalizer was added before the trip. Coach goes to shop tomorrow.
Outcomeoach goes to shop tomorrow.


Posted By: tothelight on 08/11/06 12:02pm

This breakdown info is a great idea, I see mention of a summary of these breakdowns and fixes, where could I find this?

Also thinking of buying some spare parts for common breaks on a diesel pusher motorhome like fuses fan belts etc.. does anyone have something like this?

I am about to buy this diesel pusher within two months can anyone steer my in the right direction as far as manufacturers? I read JohnnyT's info and many responses, great info, but a little mind numbing?

Limited funds will make my choices easier,I will be full timing/working in the coach and have been looking at older coaches 95' to 00' with atleast a 8.3 cummins (some without a slide)as I will be loaded down and towing a suburban (2 humans and 1 weimoraner),

also looking at more expensive models, by this I mean the Flettwood American coach line versus discovery or bounder, hoping like the boating industry they would put a little more effort and better core materials into the product which would hopefully translate into less problems, still this is an assumption.

Is anyone running biodiesel in their rig to save money?

Lastly, looking for the names of the directories that list all camp sites, state parks etc.. and costs for hook up, heard of Woodall's are there any others?

Thanks much,

ToTheLight


Posted By: Donhembree on 08/12/06 10:15pm

Test

* This post was edited 11/20/06 05:36pm by Donhembree *


Posted By: dualsport on 08/19/06 08:45am

RV particulars: Fleetwood Flair
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):GM 8.1 not Allison Trans
Miles:22K
Year:2002
Break Down Description: Auto Park Brake applied while driving

Symptoms:Auto Park Brake warning light came on to indicate the resevour was low. Brake warning light came on when hydraulic pressure dropped.
Effect:Auto Park Brake, at rear of transmission, was applied.
Cause:Leak in body of valve that supplies pressur to Auto Park Brake.

Outcome: Stopped along side of the road for 21 hours until I could get towed. Had to remove drive shaft to tow. The first dealer disconnected the linkage so I could drive to Workhorse dealer 100+ miles away. Workhorse dealer found leaking valve (pin hole in valve body) and I had to wait two days for part to arrive.


You're Never To Old To Learn


Posted By: englishmick on 08/20/06 07:55pm

I'm new to Rving,& to the USA,so after being here for 2 months(relocated to 'Vegas from Chester/England) I decided to buy a motorhome.
I started looking at under $10k motorhomes,but they were pretty tacky,so we upped our budget to $20k(I've gotta be careful with my money 'till it starts "working" for me!)& still they weren't very acceptable to us.
We then went up to $26k & looked at mainly class "A"s in 'Vegas,still not happy with what some owners recon that good conditioncan mean cupboard doors hanging off,generators not kicking in when you go to view,& one had such bad steering/brakes,it shouldn't have even been on the road!
Well after a month of looking in the 'Vegas classifieds,& travelling what seemed like hundreds of miles across the city,Dawn was going to a friends house not more than 5 miles from where we live in NW LV,& she saw a nice looking m/home with a for sale sign on it,& a price tag of $15k!!!!!!
So we went around to view it,the owner was a very nice guy called Tony who used to work at K-Mart,& was the 2nd owner from new.
It's a '93 Frontier Flyer by Damon with 46k mls on the clock,perfect interior,everything works,& the Chevy V8 sounds as sweet as a nut.

NOW,here comes the bit you've all been waiting for!
Off we go to Utah,Bryce Canyon to be precise,all the way there,no problems,all thro' Bryce,great!,then we park up down a real long lonely track at Red Canyon,& settle down for the night.

So I think I'll start the generator so we can watch a bit of TV(or "telly" as we call it in England!)
Now we have had the genny running before,so we didn't forsee a problem,& as you will later read,it wasn't the gennies fault.

Just as I press the genny starter button,there's a slight "pop" from the dashboard/engine area,& all the lights go out!

Nothing,nada,nowt!!!!!!

Bloody hell,what're we gonna do now?

Start the engine & get back to civilisation!(it's 8pm on a Saturday night)

Will the engine start.......................NO!!!!!!!!

There's NO power anywhere to anything!!!!!!!

Oh dear,break out the candles.

I checked everything I could find,fuses,trips,cables from battery to battery,I wiggled,poked & prodded things..........still nothing!

Oh well,good job we joined the GOOD SAMS BREAKDOWN SERVICE 2 days ago,we'll give 'em a call in the morning.

Along comes a nice guy from Bryce Canyon Towing,has a look,says there's nothing he can do,& puts us on the back of his truck,& takes us back to the garage,& places us by a 110volts mains supply.
"There'll be no-one to look at it 'till Monday mornin'" he says.

So we plugged in,put on the air con,& phoned around to tell people we'd be a day or so late gettin' back to 'Vegas.

Well,our next door neighbour(English spelling!)John says he'll just pop up(250mls)& have a look for us(he used to own a garage in Cal

So he gets up there 4hrs later & we talk things thro',& he says well lets listen to if there's any clicking from the battery(flat batt; symptom)................


Guess what,IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!

He was somewhat dismayed at this as you can imagine,as he had not only travelled all that way,but he wanted to find a fault & repair it.

So we both go to fill up at a gas station just in front of the garage,& when I come to start it again......IT WON"T...start that is!

So he now has a chance to put his mechanical skills to the test,& within 5 minutes he's found it.........


...........A FAULTY GROUND.......................


It seems it only started before because it had just come of a mains supply & that had 'warmed it up' a bit,but as soon as there was a hint of a load on the system,nothing!

So he used his jump leads not only to test the battery output to the starter solenoid etc;,but also as a temporary ground lead to get us back to sunny 'Vegas.

1st of all many many thanks to the best neighbor(Yank spelling)in the world,but also to Sams Club Breakdown Services.

& the last word to you all out there is...................

..........maintain your vehicle,I know there's always the unexpected(fuel pumps etc,but if I'd been more aware of my new vehicle,maybe I would have spent a bit more time gettin' a bit of dirt under my fingernails!

Happy & safe RVing you guys!

Mick'n'Dawn Moores.


Posted By: ddwillis on 08/20/06 08:58pm

Decided to take our 1990 Winn from South Carolina to Iowa on a trip. Did what you are supposed to do: tune-up, check-up and had roadside assistance. 2nd day I was in the corn fields of Iowa when started backfiring and stopped. Called roadside assistance and was told that I was too far for them to respond. Had to find my own tow. Found out that the problem was that when I had the tune-up they left out the ground wire. Finished the trip. Actually the wife and I had a good time...lots to talk about.


Posted By: englishmick on 08/21/06 10:53am

These ground wires/cables seem to be a problem.

Can nobody come up with a foolproof solution to this problem,other than the obvious?

ie;weld the groundwire permanently to the chassis.
or....have a special non corroding form of connection.
or............is this already out there & nobodies told me yet!!!!


Posted By: winbarrows on 08/25/06 05:36am

Ours was a fuel line fitting/washer combination into the injector pump on a 8.3 liter 300-hp Cummins, Alison 6 in a 1999 Newmar DutchStar with 58,000 mi. We stopped for fuel and a fellow (who works for Cat) pulled up and said we were spraying fuel out the back. We got towed to Diesel Injection Service in Windsor, WI who said the problem is a documented one with this pump/engine and there is an upgrade fitting/washer combination. Parts were less than $100 but the labor (it was tough to get to) and the steam cleaning was another $600. Incidentally, that fitting/washer is a one-time use. Remove it and replace the same one and it leaks twice as bad!


Winston and JoAnn and one feline
Newbies as of 6/2006
1999 Dutch Star 38'
Mystic, CT and the road, somewhere


Posted By: Castor on 08/25/06 08:16pm

I could contribute to this thread weekly for my rv and daily for my brothers RV


Posted By: Dynopeg on 08/26/06 01:02am

New member, just bought first motorhome, still have to go pick it up in Atlanta. Did alot of research on web first, really wanted Workhorse chassis 2001 or newer with 22.5 wheels, but could not find one with features we wanted within our budget. After "settling" for a Ford V10 chassis, I came across this thread. Had also considered older diesel, but because I have had no experience with them and not wanting to go through hassle of getting air brake endorsement on my licence, decided to stick with gas for now.
49 odd posts so far and very few posts on V10 problems, other than minor issues like shroud air intake to counteract heavy rain! Workhorse complaints abound! I'm feeling I may have made the right decision. Was worried about V10 because of horror stories about spitting out spark plugs.Lots of these complaints documented, but what are the real #'s? If 200,000 of these engines have been built, (have no idea how many manufactured between 98-04)did 200 have this problem? I'm sure atleast some are caused by improper r and r.
I'm willing to take the gamble. Plugs will probably be the least of my worries!

Best of luck to all


DYNOPEG Winnipeg Canada
2001 Fleetwoood Southwind
THE MIGHTY V-10



Posted By: bratpenny on 08/26/06 04:01am

1994 Winnebago 454 motor chevy chasis problems starting put in new altenator, batteries and solenoid and still nothing not even a clicking noise when you turn the key just dead silence, checked all the fuses and connections and still the only way it will start is husband crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver while I turn it over does anyone have a clue as to what may be wrong?

* This post was edited 09/02/06 10:23pm by bratpenny *


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 08/29/06 09:40am

bratpenny wrote:

1994 Winnebago 454 motor chevy chasis problems starting put in new altenator, batteries and solenoid and still the only way it will start is husband crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver while I turn it over does anyone have a clue as to what may be wrong?


I think that the only thing left is either a dirty/misaligned/unplugged connector or the start switch itself. You should probably have an electrical shop debug it, or if you have one, use a voltmeter on it and trace out the starting voltage from the strart switch on...where does it stop?

Also, check the fuses under the dash, you might have a blown start fuse (they can weaken with age or whatever).


Posted By: TeeTime7am on 08/29/06 09:43pm

Looks like a great topic, We'll keep a close watch here, we are just starting to travel with our new rig


Robert, Jackie & Tootsie
2006 Discovery 330 Diesel
2006 Expedition
Mission Tx



Posted By: SuperXRAY on 09/02/06 06:34pm

Hm...can't say of any breakdowns at this point. 1984 Itasca 34ft. Windcruiser. Bought it used a couple months ago. Other than fixing the dash air and getting (still under diagnosis) the generator functioning correctly, I've had zero problems. It had the normal water leak on the roof, which I fixed just a few days ago. However, I've had it out twice now and simply loved it. Has a almost 75k on the odometer, rides like a dream and has plenty of juice. It's based on a Ford chassis with a 460 engine.

I haven't been traveling long distances with it yet, but my general trip has averaged a little over 10mpg...yes that's 10mpg! Last owner said he didn't get over 9 in it, but a new air filter, plugs, timing adjustment, etc...and she runs like a champ. Overhead air works wonderfully, both front and rear bedroom. However, I have NOT flushed the winterizer out of the water tanks, so I'm still in need of doing that. Last owner took decent care of the unit, so I'm assuming all is good. I'll let everyone know when it breaks down, if ever!

After hundreds of trips camping with my father, who is passed away, I decided to buy this to go back to my youth! Although it isn't the same without him, it helps me remember (and I'm not that old...) the good old days. We had a truck bed unit for years. It's great...


Posted By: Xpltivdletd on 09/02/06 11:37pm

Castor wrote:

I could contribute to this thread weekly for my rv and daily for my brothers RV


Sounds like a good plan, to me. Chances are good your contributions will be read by somebody here who has been-there, done-that, and learned a few things about it (so you won't have to learn them all the hard way). Chances are also good, your contributions will be read by someone about to make a mistake you save him or her from making. That's the ORF at its finest.


Posted By: hnolen2000 on 09/03/06 11:11am

We have 2005 Travel Supreme Envoy at 16000 miles the u-joints went out . I had it repaired
and the same thing happened 1500 miles later this time it came loss and fell to the road, not a fun ride!! The rig is in the shop now getting repaired, I hope far the last time.

Got the motorhome back today 9-12-06 .The problem was some how the ride got out of adjustment which put the drive line in a bind.

* This post was edited 09/13/06 09:08pm by hnolen2000 *


Posted By: the whip on 09/04/06 01:25am

I just brought a fourwinds 34 ft Hurricane.
Last week took a trip from Fl to NJ.
first the backup monitor went out, then next day flat tire.
was on our way home and started to rain heavy and the wiper went flying off. The unit is at the dealer. I hope this is the last of this for awhile. I do like traveling.


Posted By: calibrator on 09/05/06 10:43pm

Country Coach Intrigue with tag axle
370 isl, allison 3000
12304 miles
2002
air bag deflated while driving
smoke from right rear tire well
HWH computerized leveling system
outcome tba

Driving down I-5 south of Sacramento, Ca, saw smoke coming from right rear tire well. Pulled over and smoke stopped. Noticed on leaving RV that the right rear airbag light was on and drive light was off. Inspection of right rear tires disclosed that the airbags had deflated and that the outer tread on the outboard tread on the dual tire had been worn off 1/4 inch. Did the Good Sam thing, they know me by name these days. This occurred on 9/2/06. After 40 calls GS found a company that was willing to come to my aid. After numerous calls of my own to CC, GS tech support and my Salesman at Guaranty RV in Junction City we manually inflated the bags and crepped to the RV park we were headed to. The repair technician arrived at 7:30 at night and after an hour of trouble shooting decided that all the valves worked and that there were no leaks. Three hours later after working on his back in the dark with a flash light this saint and magician from HEERs Automotive and Diesel from Yuba City, Ca. figured out how to by pass the faulty controller and run lines from the left side controller. We were able to finish the week and drive home to Yuba City without incident. The gentleman from Heers drove over 130 miles one way, worked under our rig for fours hours in the dark with a flash light and was able to get us road able. It is too early to finish the story. I still have to get the rig to a service center. Will the extended warranty cover the fault, will Drive Ins cover the damage to the tire and unknown system damage..stay tuned.


Posted By: responder19101ff on 09/10/06 12:15pm

driveline - G.M.C. 454 3 speed a/t
fleetwood Pace Arrow '81
over heating on the way home from private sale
cause - fan belt broke
replace fan belt with pr of panty hose (yes it worked to get it off interstate)
actually drove it about 17 miles like that - replace the belt and it works fine.... (sorry honey - I will buy you a new pair)
I now carry a full set of spare belts!


Posted By: Pelleyboy on 09/12/06 02:58pm

I noticed that a few others with a 2007 Spartan K2 chassis were having issues with the fan belts coming off. I too experienced this with my 2007 Newmar Mountain Aire which resulted in a tow. I found out from the Spartan repair center that there is a service bulletin out from Spartan addressing this issue. The fix is a five hour rebuilding and reconfiguration of the pulleys on the fan clutch. Apparently there are some serious alignment issues. Anyone with a new K2 should check to see if this bulletin applies to them. Don't find out the hard way like I did.


Posted By: Berjmobile on 09/16/06 04:01pm

In seven years of running - only two breakdowns - both without any warning. First year was a brake failure. Cause: defective master cylinder. Seal broke and master cylinder could not pressurize the wheel calipers. Towed to Cummins and master cylinder was replaced. No trouble since. Second break down was just last month. Coach would not go into gear. Towed to campground. Cause was a broken throttle return spring which caused the engine to idle too fast for the Allison to engage. Manually held the throttle lever back to hold the engine RPM down and the coach went into gear. Drove home and new springs were installed. I believe that both breakdowns were, at least in part, due to age. Don't see the need to carry a spare master cylinder or extra throttle return springs. Inconvenient breakdown? Yes indeed! Sufficient cause to quit RVing? H*** no! Jim.


JAG
1993 Pace Arrow Diesel
2004 Saturn VUE V6 AT
El Cajon, CA 92019


Posted By: rebelsbeach on 09/17/06 09:54pm

Pelleyboy wrote:

I noticed that a few others with a 2007 Spartan K2 chassis were having issues with the fan belts coming off. I too experienced this with my 2007 Newmar Mountain Aire which resulted in a tow. I found out from the Spartan repair center that there is a service bulletin out from Spartan addressing this issue. The fix is a five hour rebuilding and reconfiguration of the pulleys on the fan clutch. Apparently there are some serious alignment issues. Anyone with a new K2 should check to see if this bulletin applies to them. Don't find out the hard way like I did.


Brand new coach....my second three hour wait for wrecker was TODAY for this fan issue...

First time the side cooling fan had come off, that was in late July...


2007 London Aire Diesel Bus
2005 ATC 24' Stacker Trailer
'07 Hummer H3 and Custom golf cart inside
Idirect F2 on 93W


Posted By: Patty98311 on 09/22/06 08:09am

New owner

1994 36' Allegro Bay DP cummins 5.9(40k miles) w/ 6speed Allison Transmission

Purchased unit from private individual in MS drove home to Ar(300 miles) with no problems, two weeks later drove to Mo(250 miles) camping no problen during road trip. Set up and tried to move next morning jacks come up, engine started, transmission would not engage or light panel. Had just signed on for GSC(w/ERS) the day before they responded on site in about an hour with service truck, could not find problem called tow rig which was on site in about 2 hrs from original call. Will conectingtow rig to unit, unit was started to straighten wheels and everything started working. Tow was cancelled, cause has not been identified. Unit has operated normally since but have been afraid to use levelers as this is what the technician suspected was the problem but could not verify.


2000 Country Coach


Posted By: lv2golf on 09/26/06 04:30pm

New Owner - Just bought a 1997 Beaver Marquis and tow vehicle (2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee) from a nice gentleman in Carson City, NV. Great coach and you can tell he really took care of everything. We signed the papers and headed out of Carson City going northbound on Hwy 395. Approx 30 mi north of Susanville, CA, coach warning alarm started sounding. Very irritating noise so my husband pulled over on the shoulder (in the middle of nowhere!!). The alarm was "leveler down" but after checking the coach all jacks were in the proper position. Since we are new to rving (always tent camped), we had no idea what was going on. The coach looked like it was sitting down too low to drive (the mud flap behind the front tire was on the ground). He immediately called the previous owner and he was very helpful trying to resolve the problem. (lowering jacks, checking air, etc.) Nothing seemed to work.

Next step was to call Beaver Service Center in Bend, OR. They also had several suggestions which weren't resolving the problem. In the meantime, contacted AAA and they contacted a towing service. Unfortunately, our AAA coverage did not include RV towing!!! Just great!! Welcome to rving!!

We finally talked to a towing company out of Susanville and the gentleman was very helpful and suggested we needed a service truck instead of towing. (of course, it couldn't be 'towed' since it was practically sitting on the ground, and he would have to get a permit to put it on a flatbed due to height restrictions.)

In the meantime, talking to Beaver, etc., determined the problem was in the air suspension system. The previous owner called several times and insisted that he drive up to where we were (2 1/2 hours from his home) to see if he could help. The service man arrived after we had sat for approx 5 1/2 hours and shortly thereafter the previous owner arrived.

The service man determined it was a front air suspension valve that had failed and caused the air hose to break away. He did not have the type of valve needed so he drove back to his shop in Susanville to rig something up that would get us going again. In the meantime the previous owner arrived with his wife and dog to help. They sat with us for 2 1/2 hours while the service man was gone and was just about to leave upon our insisting that all was okay, when the service man arrived. So he had to find out exactly what he was going to do to by-pass the valve. It was a very clever rig, running a longer hose from the broken valve up to the front of the coach under bumper. Simple open/close valve that my husband could manually operate to get the air suspension up so we could travel.

All work was completed after 8 hours on the road side, and the previous owner paid for the service call. We got back home the next day which is just 15 miles from the Bend Service Center. Of course, I immediately got online and signed up for GSC with ERS.

We talked to Beaver about our new valve setup and they determined the coach would be okay to use over the weekend. The next day we drove 200 miles to a fishing tournament on the Columbia River in Boardman, OR, and camped at the Boardman RV Park and Marina (very nice park, right on the river and large paved sites). No problems going or coming on this trip!!

Took the coach into Beaver service center on Tuesday the following week and had the front valve replaced. One of the back air suspension valves was also leaking and the other one looked worn, so replaced those also. Had the coach "PDI'd" by Beaver and they repaired the cab A/C, serviced the aqua hot, and did a little seal work on the entry door. Other items listed were minor and can be repaired by us.

All in all, we love the coach and have just done a winterization but will use again in October for ten days and then winterize all over again.

Hope this helps someone out there who has an air suspension problem.

Sandy in Oregon


1997 Beaver Marquis Opal Edition 40'
Toad 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Sandy and Terry Brown
New to rving



Posted By: Borrego Ed on 09/29/06 12:46am

Two years ago I bought a ten year old Monaco Dynasty from one of the biggest RV dealers in the U.S. thinking I'd be fairly treated, NOT. Picked the unit up in Fl. in the Tampa area, drove it as far as Baton Rouge when the starter went. Then in Texas punctured a rear tire, which was my fault. The first three trips it broke down and had to be towed twice, thank goodness for Good Sam Emerg. service. To make a long story short, found the Cummins' 300 turbo had been overheated by previous owner which was the source of the major problem that of not starting. We had to resleeve one cyl. replace the piston, the head and exhaust manifold. In addition had to replace the alternator, starter, starter solenoid (twice), fuel shut off solenoid valve(twice),inverter and rewire some mickey mouse wiring tapped into the starting circuit. The bottom line was $8,300 later I think we have a pretty good rig, but the grief getting there was awful. We had all the work done by authorized Cummins' shops, and when they first put the new head on hadn't torqued it properly so our trip to Oregon was cancelled as we lost five gallons of water in 500 miles. But lucky for us the Cummins' shop in Sacramento knew what they were doing and redid the head job right. But we had spend a week of our vacation getting the repairs done, lucky for us we had friends in Sacramento. I really kick myself because I noticed a little milky color in the breather pipe when I was in Fl. but because the crankcase oil was clear I dismissed it as being the result of the damp weather in Fl. This was my really BIG mistake and I'm convinced the dealer knew there was a problem, but saw me coming. Oh well I guess I'm not to old to learn, but oh my the price. The turkey that owned it before and had traded it in had the nerve to came by when I was picking it up in Fl. and I thought he was going to cry when he started telling me what fun he and his wife had experienced in this RV. The R.V. Dealer did send me a check for $750 said thats all they would pay. Hope this story gave someone comfort seeing their problems weren't as bad as they thought, if so my time hasn't been wasted writing this story.

Borrego Ed

* This post was edited 10/19/06 12:32am by Borrego Ed *


Posted By: Ritaboland on 10/02/06 11:10am

I see that there are 50 pages for this topic. Was there a complete report consolidaton etc done on this topic? I'd love to see if there is because it's taking me awhile to get thru all 50 pages.
Thanks


Posted By: detomasop on 10/09/06 02:12pm

Cummins 350, Spartan Chassis

Problem: Coolant tank "sight glass" (actually plastic) broken.
This empties about 1.5 gal of coolant. Lucky I found this shortly after it happened. Quick fix to get you on the road: 1. use nylon drain plug from the water heater to temporarily plug the hole. 2. somebody also had the problem and used a "boat drain plug"


2001 American Dream
2000 Harley Heritage Classic
1974 Detomasop Pantera


Posted By: Techie on 10/10/06 06:24pm

Finaly happened to me -- heading north of Barstow, CA on the 15 and the engine stop light came on with the computer telling me low oil pressure.

Pulled off as soon as possible and stopped -- pressure on the gauge was down to under 20.

Oil was pooling underneath the coach and looked like it poured out.

Got all over the underskirt and still managed to spray the toad.

Had it towed (Coach-Net was great but the tow truck managed to damage both of my mirrors!) and just received a call that the problem was a failed line and will be fixed tomorrow under warranty.


2011 Airstream Classic Limited 34'
2011 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax/Allison SRW
Follow our adventures



Posted By: Wannafulltime on 10/24/06 04:35pm

RV particulars: 36' National RV Dolphin with Mor-Ryde Tag Axle
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Triton V-10 (has Banks Ram-Air added on)
Miles: 33,000+ (had 28,000 when we purchased it in April, 2006)
Year: 2000
Break Down Description: making a right turn when heard loud noise; thought we hit something or were dragging something
Symptoms: loud road noise
Effect: wheel fell off
Cause: wheel bearings in right tax axle seized up
Outcome: burnt up brake and scored brake drum, had to replace all parts & brake drum had to be re-turned.

We had come from Branson, MO down US 65 and decided to get gas before we hit I-40. There was a Wal-Mart there (Conway, AR) with good price, so we decided to turned in. As we turned in, we heard a loud noise and we thought we had either hit something or were dragging something. We pulled to a stop, got out, and found out that our right tag axle wheel had come off. We went into Wal-Mart and called around for a mobile RV service. We found one and settled in to wait for them. While we waited, we called our extended warranty folks to find out what we needed to do. It seems the service person would have to call them and get an authorization number before doing any work. When the service guy called, he was told that he had to send an itemized list to the warranty place and they would let him know what to do. However, they wanted to have us towed to a service facility, even though this guy worked with several big RV companies doing roadside service. The tow would cost at least $700, but more like $1000, because we would have needed a flatbed towtruck. Since we had no idea whether or not the warranty place would pay, we declined and decided to have the guy fix it there and he could argue with the warranty place. Long story short, they would not pay for anything except $30 for bearings. Since the service guy was sent the wrong part and it would have been an additional four days sitting in the Wal-Mart parking lot (he needed a four hole brake assembly rather than the five hole he was sent - mind you he had sent pictures to show what he needed) we had him reassemble the wheel without the brake assembly (to the tune of $621.00!) and came on to Florida. So now we have a tag axle without the brake assembly and we need to have the rest of the work done. I am so disgusted with extended warranty companies. One pays through the nose for these warranties to keep from having such problems, and all one gets is stonewalled right and left. I am still going to speak with someone from the company to see if I can get them to come up with any money on the repair. I believe we are due it because the bearings (which they pay for) caused the problem! I had the service man check the other wheel on the tag and it was lubricated just fine! GRRRRRR!!!!


2000 Glendale Golden Falcon
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 HO Dually


Posted By: Roark Family on 10/24/06 04:42pm

What is the company you use for your extended warranty?


Posted By: horibajim on 10/24/06 08:00pm

2005 Winnebago Journey
Freightliner Chassis
5.9 liter Cummins engine
Towing 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Me, Wife and 2 cats (cats have 15,000 miles)

Traveling south on I-75 to Florida through Tennessee. We felt a vibration when we climbing hills. We made it all the way to Florida but now we get vibration when accelerating from a light. The coach has 15,000 miles. At the 5,000 mile mark, had the oil changed according to the mfr specifications (Freightliner Service Center). They also lubed the chassis (at least according to the piece of paper). I took it to a Freightliner service center in Orlando. They very quickly found a bad universal joint. That was the good news. The bad news, they said, because it was not lubricated properly, it was not covered under warranty. I don't know how they can tell, the parts were in such bad shape. Cost me $389. The Florida service center called the place that did the original lube job but got no where.
So extended warranty companies are not the only guilty. I'm not really thrilled with original equipment (Freightliner) manufacturers.


Posted By: J-Rooster on 10/26/06 02:17am

I've only had one breakdown on the road, and it was 7 years ago, and at that time I owned a Class C 31 foot Jamboree. The breakdown was caused by my slideout, sliding out about 18 inches,and of all places it was that narrow steep grade that you drive up before you get to Yosmite National Park. It was the dining room slide on the driver's side. What I did was drive on the shoulder on the passenger side of the road (this caused the coach to lean toward the passenger side preventing it from sliding out to the driver's side anymore) until I got to the top of the hill, and pulled into a gas station. There the wife and I were able to push the slide back in and secure it. The cause was I ran over a flat object (a thin paper book left on the floor by the Grandkids) while, retracting the slide-out shearing off a pin, which caused the slide-out to freely move in or out (with this pin sheared off, I couldn't use, extend or retract the side-out using the hydrolic's). John


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 10/28/06 01:22pm

RV particulars: 37' Fleetwood Bounder, Diesel Pusher.
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 5.9L, 190HP, Allison 4 speed.
Miles: 126,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: Alternator would not charge chassis battery, dim lights.
Symptoms: Dash voltage meter went high for about an hour or so before failure, then into discharge and stayed there.
Effect: Had to cross wire house batteries to chassis (starting) battery and run genset to stay on road. (Genset set up to charge all batteries using the 120V to 14V converter - shorted the 'Aux' switch on the dash so the batteries were crossed with a relay used for starting the rig with a low chassis battery).
Cause: Bad alternator.

Called Freightliner and found my alternator is a Delco 21 SI @ 100 amp. They asked $470 before shipping. Called several places but eventually found a local auto parts store that had them at $162 total (after core return), includes tax and $10 for them to swap the pulley. Difficult part was the part number mis-match between the Freightliner p/n and the Delco generic p/n.

Although this alternator was caked with dirt and road debris, it performed it's job for over 126,000 miles. I found one of terminals on the internal voltage regulator was so corroded it fell off when I moved the connector.

Good job Delco.

Outcome: Replaced bad alternator, dress up wiring, back on road. Three hours plus part chase time.


Posted By: 03FatBoy on 10/31/06 12:10pm

Roark Family wrote:

What is the company you use for your extended warranty?


You name one, they're all pretty much alike! I could tell a similar horror story to the one above. When I got home I immediately canceled my extended warranty. They not only are expensive, but the pay back from these folks (or at least getting them to) is pathetic!


Melissa & Steve (MNC USNR retired)
FMCA F335327, GS
'05 HR Ambassador 36PDD, Saturn Vue Toad
8.3L Cummins w/ 6sp Allison


Posted By: The Poopster on 10/31/06 02:21pm

We had taken delivery of our MH the week before when we left for a weekend trip with our two grands. We were on a two-lane road in the rain just as it got dark. All of a sudden, the engine quit, the headlights went out and the emergency flashers did not work. Luckily, I was able to coast off the road.
After being towed to a service center at around 3am, The technician, who was still working at that hour, found that the ground cables on the chassis batteries were so loose the battery management system shut the whole thing down.
The pre-delivery inspection the week before obviously left something to be desired, although I will take part of the blame for trusting the dealer.
Icing on the cake. A state trooper was following us when this happened. He stopped and gave me a warning ticket for driving without lights.


Fulltimer since 2004
2003 Revolution 40C
2003 Ford Explorer Sport-trac


Posted By: Teach 2 on 11/01/06 07:05am

This summer we had a weird experience:

Driveline: Cat C7 350hp, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 7,400
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Engine would not shut down
Symptoms: Turn ignition off, remove key, engine still running
Effect: I think you've got it
Cause: Bad ignition switch
Outcome: Freightliner CS sent us to Enterprise Truck Sales near Jackson, Mississippi where we were treated extremely well while the problem was diagnosed and fixed.


Gary
2006 Excursion, 39S
Freightliner, 350 Cat C7
2003 Liberty, F366040
Caterpillar RV Engine Owner's Club



Posted By: HOKIEME on 11/14/06 02:56pm

I have a 1999 Winnebago Adventurer Cummins ISB engine 123K miles.

About a year ago the engine would not shut off when the key was turned off. A call to Cummins said probably a diode burned out in line to alternator allowing back feed to fuel shutoff valve keeping it open. Immediate solution was to pull the five fuses in battery compartment which shut engine off

The diode was burned out, I had a larger capacity one so replaced it and has worked fine.


Posted By: fuzzbutt on 11/17/06 12:32pm

RV particulars:
Drivelinehevy 454
Miles:24000
Year:1994
Break Down Description: No electrical power.
Symptoms:Voltmemter was reading 10 volts
Effectngine totally shut down while driving down the road
Causead alternator
Outcomeut a new chassis battery in it on the side of the road. I was told to take it to Camping World which I had just enough power to get there, only to find out that they don't do engine repairs. I had 3 people refer me there. Luckily I was able to get it fixed at a small garage only about a mile away.

* This post was edited 12/03/06 08:27pm by fuzzbutt *


John, Sherry & Sabrina
+ Mowgli (Keeshond) Shane (Border Collie) Sunny (Sun Conure) & Lily (Cockatiel)
94 Winnebago Adventurer 34'
04 Nissan Murano
05 Acura TL
92 Honda Gold Wing
Now.....bring me that horizon.


Posted By: billsteinberger on 11/18/06 09:22am

Where to start..1st a broken injector line caused by the injector line bracket breaking. Fixed by replacing line and welding bracket. Next year, guess what, bracket weld failed and you guessed it, same injector line broke. Ever see what diesel fuel does to a toad's finish? Next, sudden overheating. This time replaced thermostat, problem solved. Same trip woke up at 2:00 AM, coach is shaking and sounds like someone running a single cylindar generator. Got up to check, It was our coach! Gnerator was trying to start..no I don't have auto gen..burned up starter motor on generator..smoke pouring from front of coach...control unit bad. Finished trip by disconnecting generator battery wires, so still had 12V in coach. When generator checked, also had a magnet that had disintegrated. Also an oil leak in front of engine and oil pan, both spotted when getting generator fixed.

Good news! Heritage extended warranty covered everything. Service manager at Charlibois Freightliner Service center said they were the most professional and easist warranty company he ever dealt with. Best investment I ever made!


W . P. Steinberger


Posted By: ConnieAndMike on 11/18/06 10:53am

Tag Axle Bearings are a service item and should be repacked and inspected according to MFG spec. Probably every 20K miles. Or when you have the front axle bearing serviced.

Not picking on Wantfulltime but a neglected service item probably should not be covered. I also suggest that the other side be serviced at your earliest convience.

If you buy a used MH and not sure about the bearings being sereviced, bite the bullet and have the service done, for your piece of mind


Posted By: Teebucket1313 on 11/19/06 03:45pm

We are new to the Motorhome life. I wasn't going to join Good Sam RV towing, but a little voice told me I should. It's the best $78.00 I ever paid. My daughter's husband is a fighter pilot in the Air Force stationed at Columbus Mississippi. We where heading there to help them move into their new home. We where going to take care of our two grandkids 2 and 3 so mom and dad could get things put away. We had a break down on Sunday morning. We have a 1996 Pace Arrow Vision. We had a pressure switch on the auto park fail. We were heading down the ramp when it slammed on the auto park brake, right now. We were down for almost two days before we where able to get it fixed. The best part about the break down is that we got to meet a lot of really nice people. The Good Sam Towing service was the best. The first thing is that Good Sam was concerned with was our safety. They wanted to make sure both the vehicle and we were in a safe place. They got a wrecker out there ASAP and gave us a choice of where we wanted to be towed. We had them tow us back to our campsite that we stayed the previous night in Hayti-Portageville, Mo. The people that run the KOA there where great. Even offered us the use of their car. WOW!!! Then on Monday I called Good Sam and they had Todd's Towing service tow us almost another 100 miles to a repair shop to fix our motorhome. The driver Allen was great and also gave us a local history lesson. When we arrived at Coad Chevy the service manager Jeff just bent over backwards to help get back on the road. Even through we lost two days of our vacation away from our grandkids, we met the best people. We still love our motorhome.

Dennis and Sheri Dickinson
1996 Pace Arrow Vision
Called Papa's bus.


Dennis & Sheri
2006 Sportcoach Encore
Good Sam Life Time Members
FMCA member F399328
Car Dolly
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport
2011 Chevy Tahoe


Posted By: Skytraveler on 11/22/06 04:41pm

billsteinberger wrote:

Where to start..1st a broken injector line caused by the injector line bracket breaking. Fixed by replacing line and welding bracket. Next year, guess what, bracket weld failed and you guessed it, same injector line broke. Ever see what diesel fuel does to a toad's finish? Next, sudden overheating. This time replaced thermostat, problem solved. Same trip woke up at 2:00 AM, coach is shaking and sounds like someone running a single cylindar generator. Got up to check, It was our coach! Gnerator was trying to start..no I don't have auto gen..burned up starter motor on generator..smoke pouring from front of coach...control unit bad. Finished trip by disconnecting generator battery wires, so still had 12V in coach. When generator checked, also had a magnet that had disintegrated. Also an oil leak in front of engine and oil pan, both spotted when getting generator fixed.

Good news! Heritage extended warranty covered everything. Service manager at Charlibois Freightliner Service center said they were the most professional and easist warranty company he ever dealt with. Best investment I ever made!


Not saying that you are an employee of Heritage but members should also condition their opions with a quick google on company click here
Sounds like you might just be an exception rather than typical with this company.


Posted By: RAMBLERS202 on 11/23/06 06:36pm

Motorhome - HR Endeavor
330 Cummins, MH3000 Allison
Year - 2002
67,000 miles

We full time, therefore frequently on the move. I take my maintenance seriously and also perform frequent inspections, looking for abnormalities. I have never experienced a breakdown on the road.
I also do most of the maintenance and repairs.


Posted By: jmcgilvary on 11/26/06 10:04am

On return trip from buying my 40' 1992 Bunder, Ford 7.5l, EFI engine.
Southbound I-75 to Fla. Turnpike from Dothan, Al to Miami, Fl.
Ran great, bought gas in Orlando, after the first half of my 600 mile trip.
We stopped to pay a toll in Delray Beach, 60 miles from home.
Bus stalled, and would not start for a while.
Finally managed to get it started, and could only accelerate VERY, VERY slowly.
We are still trying to find service fror it here in Miami to help diagnose the problem.
Have had 2 mechanics look at it. One says fuel pump, one said exhaust back pressure, now say timing chain (after removing all exhaust componets.


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/08/06 10:53am

My first RV experience was last night on the way home from the dealership. I purchased a 1992 Allegro Bay Diesel Pusher with a 230hp Cummins and 4spd Allison. About 15 miles southbound on I-35 the bus lost almost all power and the RPM's dropped from about 2200 to 1400. This limited top speed to right under 40mph. I took the first exit to see what was going on and when I let off the accelerator the bus stalled. I managed to steer it to the side of the road and stop without the engine running, and it started right back up. You could feel the turbo spool up until about 1800rpm's and then it would start dropping back down. Also I noticed that the longer we drove, the more the engine coolant temp. decreased. We would pull over, let it warm back up and take off again. Called the dealer and they told me to bring it back.... but I wonder what is wrong with it. Any ideas ?


1992 M34 Tiffin Allegro Bay Pusher '34
41,000 Miles
190HP Cummins, 4spd Allison
6X10 Pace Journey Enclosed Trailer



Posted By: Jackjagt on 12/08/06 03:02pm

outsider1924 wrote:

My first RV experience was last night on the way home from the dealership. I purchased a 1992 Allegro Bay Diesel Pusher with a 230hp Cummins and 4spd Allison. About 15 miles southbound on I-35 the bus lost almost all power and the RPM's dropped from about 2200 to 1400. Any ideas ?


Maybe your air cleaner collapsed and restricted engine breathing.....


Posted By: victorydave1 on 12/10/06 06:36am

Been 32 years since I owned a MH and it was a Dodge Xplorer with the floor cut out, you know the one made in Brown City MI. Dodge had a resistor that would pop, you couldn't see it (it was out of sight above the openning of the van hood)Took 2 minutes to change, it killed the motor. After that I started carring a spare resistor + a full set of belts, a jumper battery, fuel filter, Hose repair kit (tape works here too), 1 gal coolant, trans fluid, engine oil (2 qts each) and a few tools. Not much room in that MH but used most of above at one time or another.
When I buy my class A I will ask a service tech what have you seen in common break downs with this unit? If it's under a grand total and I think I can change it, I will carry it! Might even buy parts that I can't change out myself if dealers don't normally carry it .(I'll ask a few dealers in my travels if they have that part in stock) ..... Yeah I know it's not nice to ask a Mechcanic to install my parts but if they don't have it in stock and I do they shouldn't refuse. I will buy/carry a spare tire and think everyone should!
That's my think'n anyhoot ! victorydaveAnyone that owns a diesel MH that doesn't carry a spare full filter(s) and the tool to remove it is asking for it in I.M.H.O.

* This post was edited 12/10/06 06:54am by victorydave1 *


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/10/06 12:55pm

I drove it back up to the dealer yesterday morning. It is about a 50 mile drive. I let the engine warm up for about 30 minutes before I left. Everything was great for about the first 15 miles of the trip. Lots of power, no stalling. Even got up to 67mph at one point!!! Then it began to trail off, first you are lucky to get it to 55mph, then to 50mph and by the time I got to the dealer it was topping out at just under 45mph @ about 1600rpm's. It stalled twice on the way there. It stalls whenever you let off the accelerator.

Before I left, I checked to make sure none of the intake hoses were collapsed or anything obvious........


Posted By: Patty98311 on 12/13/06 07:39am

Patty98311 wrote:

New owner

F/U Problem below repeated after short trip to Hot Springs, Ar. Was able to get Mid-South Cummins of Little Rock to look at it(seems no one in Ar will work on anything > 5yrs old, " its not worth our time") after 10 days of diagnostics and ording parts, transmission computer was replaced w/ all associated wiring harnesses that were burned and damaged cost $3900.

1994 36' Allegro Bay DP cummins 5.9(40k miles) w/ 6speed Allison Transmission

Purchased unit from private individual in MS drove home to Ar(300 miles) with no problems, two weeks later drove to Mo(250 miles) camping no problen during road trip. Set up and tried to move next morning jacks come up, engine started, transmission would not engage or light panel. Had just signed on for GSC(w/ERS) the day before they responded on site in about an hour with service truck, could not find problem called tow rig which was on site in about 2 hrs from original call. Will conectingtow rig to unit, unit was started to straighten wheels and everything started working. Tow was cancelled, cause has not been identified. Unit has operated normally since but have been afraid to use levelers as this is what the technician suspected was the problem but could not verify.



Posted By: ke4648 on 12/17/06 12:09pm

Yes my Clas B was well maintained. But....there are just too many things to go wrong. I had just had my gen worked on by a certified dealer in Sikeston Mo. $958.00 for new carb, exhaust and oil change and so on. One month later, same problem with the carb. And before that it was my fuel pump in my gas tank, kapput! Now we know what it cost to replace those also. And I could go on with a nice long list, but we all know that this list is almost on any MH you buy. Even the new ones have way too much trouble. You are right though when you say many do have less problems than others. But my maintenace was good, on time and always someone "certified" but that did not seem to help that much. Just too many things to break down on a MH and that is my whole point. I guess when you try to put so much and so many different things and systems in a moving object you have more break downs. But as I said, kudos to you that can keep on pouring good money after bad into these money eaters, lol. I still liked the travel in one, but have come to the conclusion it is not for me. But enjoy yours, it can be fun, and makes for some great vacations


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/21/06 08:40pm

I picked my RV back up from the dealer tonight... They claimed they had fixed the problem by replacing the fuel filter. It ran great for about the first 15 miles, but then began to slowly lose power. By the time I made it to my house (50 miles away) it was dying everytime I let off the accelerator. Also, while cruising on the highway, you can feel the power surge about every 15 seconds. The motor will slow waaay down to about 1400rpm's and then it will jump up to about 2200rpms for about 15 seconds, then slow back down... and over and over. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, so I stopped and put 20 gallons of diesel in and the problem presisted... The dealer is very unhelpful, does anyone have any ideas ?


Posted By: ElieC on 12/26/06 05:42pm

Just returned from a 3 week trip down to quartzsite, and slab city. all went well till on the way home to Santa Cruz Ca. I pulled into a rest area on I10 and at the same time my throttle cable and my shifter cable both gave up the ghost. what are the odds of that happening?/? I called good sam and was told that they couldn't send anyone till the next day ( monday) They send out a mechanic who assessed the problem and charged me 90 bucks the that info. and tried to get me to pay for his trip back to his shop. after another call to good sam, they told them that they would be paying for that trip. then 5 hours later a tow truck shows up and after about 3 hours of getting ready we finally took off to Colton Truck where they hadn't recieved any call from Good sam that we were coming. By wed, they told me that Freightliner told them that they didn't make those cables anymore??? I had to have them made 550.00, by friday I was on the road again after a bill of 11oo.00, only to have the new throttle cable to sieze up just as I was getting close to home. This has not been one of my better trips.
94 Fleetwood Flair Diesel Pusher


Posted By: lazybear on 12/27/06 10:18pm

I have broke down twice in the last 8 weeks. Both times, I blew a head gasket, and had some bad injectors. I have a 2005 Tiffin Phaeton with 7,041 miles on it, with 170 total hours on the Cat 350 engine.I bought the unit new 16 months ago. It is in the shop now awaiting word from a Cat Supervisor as to weather they will repair it again, or install a new engine. The 1st time they installed a new block and head. This time they say the head is bad. I am very disappointed in the treatment Cat supervision is treating me.
Thanks, Jack


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/28/06 08:37am

lazybear wrote:

I have broke down twice in the last 8 weeks. Both times, I blew a head gasket, and had some bad injectors. I have a 2005 Tiffin Phaeton with 7,041 miles on it, with 170 total hours on the Cat 350 engine.I bought the unit new 16 months ago. It is in the shop now awaiting word from a Cat Supervisor as to weather they will repair it again, or install a new engine. The 1st time they installed a new block and head. This time they say the head is bad. I am very disappointed in the treatment Cat supervision is treating me.
Thanks, Jack



Holy cow. Two blown head gaskets on a motor with 7k miles... Maybe it overheated the first time, warped it, and they didnt resurface the head correctly before they put it on the second time... Why did it overheat in the first place ?


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/28/06 08:39am

outsider1924 wrote:

I picked my RV back up from the dealer tonight... They claimed they had fixed the problem by replacing the fuel filter. It ran great for about the first 15 miles, but then began to slowly lose power. By the time I made it to my house (50 miles away) it was dying everytime I let off the accelerator. Also, while cruising on the highway, you can feel the power surge about every 15 seconds. The motor will slow waaay down to about 1400rpm's and then it will jump up to about 2200rpms for about 15 seconds, then slow back down... and over and over. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, so I stopped and put 20 gallons of diesel in and the problem presisted... The dealer is very unhelpful, does anyone have any ideas ?


Texas Kenworth in Dallas took care of the problem for me. The vent on the fuel tank was clogged. Runs like a dream now.


Posted By: ygohome on 12/28/06 08:41am

Sorry~ Please do not make the mistake we made on our first long trip in 1991 with a Fleetwood Pace Arrow manufactured in June, 1990.
Talk with patience to the manufacturer & insist on a replacement.
After thinking all the problems had been addressed by Fleetwood Factory in Decatur, Indiana, we NEVER had a trip without problems. Had good service in Indiana where they did find many things wrong by original oversight. INSPECTIONS??? Hadn't even completed reinforcing the floors or allowing for the electric step to open out fully. (Minor, compared to following troubles, have print-outs as proof).
Do not have the time to even discuss problems found under the hood over the years. Some record, and in time, very expensive. Can not even sell "As Is". Waited, sentimental reasons and also mistakenly thinking each time we had a better rig.
Please, do some research in connection with the dealer attitude, relate there also. Hopefully this will help.
Still a wonderful way to travel & see the U.S.. Good luck!


Posted By: lazybear on 12/28/06 06:48pm

It did not overheat the first time. I checked on it today and they advised that the head has grooves in it, and that is the reason the second gasket blew. They took a new head out of a crate and it has groves in it too. They are sending it back to Cat to have it milled. I may get it back someday. Bad service from CAT for sure. Very disappointed in the company. Lazybear


Posted By: outsider1924 on 12/29/06 08:33am

lazybear wrote:

It did not overheat the first time. I checked on it today and they advised that the head has grooves in it, and that is the reason the second gasket blew. They took a new head out of a crate and it has groves in it too. They are sending it back to Cat to have it milled. I may get it back someday. Bad service from CAT for sure. Very disappointed in the company. Lazybear

I still dont understand... How did it blow a head gasket the first time ?


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 12/29/06 01:10pm

Hey, Guys. Please keep in mind the original format of this thread. It is not for carrying on discussions; do that in the Class A general forum, or a Technical forum. And look at the original post by Badeye for the correct method of posting in the Breakdowns thread:

12/10/03 05:42am Link | Quote | Print | Notify Moderator

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 01/01/07 08:13pm

1/2 Canadian wrote:

Hey, Guys. Please keep in mind the original format of this thread. It is not for carrying on discussions; do that in the Class A general forum, or a Technical forum. And look at the original post by Badeye for the correct method of posting in the Breakdowns thread
Edited for brevity.

I have to agree with 1/2 Canadian on this one. My impression of this thread from the start was that it should be a pure collection of RV failures and solutions...impartial, non-judgmental, concise. So the OP does not have to wade through a lot of 'noise' in order to create a practical and useful spreadsheet of RV failures (that caused a vehicle to stop on the road), which I thought was the original intent.

There isn't any reason a poster can't start another thread if s/he wants to cuss out a certain dealer or repair shop while they post the pertinent facts here. I'd be happy with the posters laying it all out, warts and all. But not in this thread.

I hope the moderator comes by and deletes all these useless posts to help clean this thread up.

JMO.


Posted By: billy1 on 01/06/07 08:13pm

Summary, Many are asking for summaries. Here's mine. Regarding Deisel only.
1. Breakdowns more common with rigs less than 5 to 7 years old

2. Most often filters, electrical, and grounding wires

3. Rigs 10+ yrs old; fewer posts by far, mostly aging electrical
parts or wires

Best prevention seems to me to inspect carefully during annual service ALL OF THE ENGINE COMPONETS & WIRES. Those posts indicating no on the road breakdowns are suggesting they do this religiously.

I would like to see other summaries also.


93 Safari DP 36ft
97 Ford Ranger



Posted By: brian62 on 02/06/07 07:56pm

Getting us back on topic 3 breakdowns to report, both on the same rig: 1998 Southwind Storm 34S 7.4L Vortec Chevrolet (before the workhorse) 16,500 GVWR 1st. breakdown 46,000miles Dec. 24 2005(yeah I know great day to have problems) After traveling 450 miles the day before got up in the morning to leave turned key and nothing..not even a click tried emergency start switch and still nothing. tried jump starting and still nothing gave up and call AAA. When tow showed up truck was way too small to tow rig, tow driver tried jumping us also still nothing, tow driver asked if i could put jacks down and he would crawl under and have a quick look, ended up being a wire loose on the starter tightened it up and away we went no further trouble. 2nd breakdown 47,000miles Oct. 26 2006 About 150 miles from home (less than 20 miles to campground) Auto Park light would come on and go off but the brake did not apply (having heard of the the woes of the system i had already done some research on it) got to campgrounds got under the coach and found the pressure maintance switch was leaking (aka RGS(rotton green switch)) was not able to get one, finished our weekend and limped home stopping to check Auto Park fluid and the brake itself(to be sure it was not hot) did this every 30 to 60 miles. got home ordered switch replaced it and all was well untill...... 3rd breakdown 51,000miles Jan.13 2007 After traveling 300 miles the day before got up to leave,started coach put in drive could hear AutoPark disengage (pump running) break disengaged pump shut off but light did not go off, got under coach found nothing leaking system was operating normally so we drove to the nearest chevy dealer(they were no help) so we continued on, checked it every so often for leak\overheating\pump running after about 390 miles i discovered another pressure switch was leaking (not the green one this one was\is gray) switch was not availabe in the area, just so we could get home (we were on our way from florida to ohio problem 1st started in south georiga buy the time it started leaking we were in tennesse) workhorse in tennesse keeps the green switches in stock but not the grey ones, so i bought one of the green ones (the green and gray switches are exactly the same except for the plug and the function) and put it in place of the gray one just to plug the hole so we could get home. got home ordered proper switch and all is working normally again..... My point of posting these is this...just because we have a motorhome don't mean we have money falling from the sky on us..none of these repairs\fixes was more than $60.00 per occurance in parts and some time and research on my part (thanks again Rodger) if i did not have the knowledge\ability to do these repairs myself the last 2 repairs alone would have cost over $1000.00 each with loss of use of MH hotels rental cars ect. if you have a chevy\workhorse with a yellow knob to apply the parking brake you have some form of the Auto Park system..you may want to get to know the system..i'm sure glad i did..saved me and AAA a bunch of $$$...and i think i have looked at all 54 pages lol Brian 98 Southwind Storm 34S (no toad)


Posted By: Oldman on 02/23/07 12:38pm

RV particulars: American T
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): ISC 8.3 cummins, 6 sp Allison
Miles: 50k
Year: 99
Break Down Description: Shut off for 4 hours and when started ran bad and black smoke. I was close to home so got it back in driveway.
Symptoms: Runs very bad and lots of black smoke.

I scanned it with 2 different units both say "Injection control valve bad. I replaced the valve 408.00 but still runs same. I check
all the pins on the computer and looks good. Did a continuity test to most sensors, changed both fuel filters. I don't want to take it
to Cummins, but may have to. I hate to say it, but it's the worst engine I have ever owned. Im afraid to leave home with it.

Anyone got help?


Posted By: JohnnyT on 02/23/07 04:38pm

Generally when you are producing black smoke the Turbo is the culprit. Since the black smoke is an indication of incomplete combustion.


Posted By: Oldman on 02/24/07 06:20am

Hi Thanks for writing.
That's true when running down the road, but this is at 600 rpm, idle.
No boost at idle, big puffs of black smoke at idle. I can't see how it
can be fat and still run at 600, since if you add fuel it picks up the speed.
If I give it throttle it will run up to the governor just fine, and lots of black smoke as well. I wonder if the computer is retarding the whole injection
cycle.
note, I have the air filter and soom of the ducting off and I can hear the turbo just going like gang busters if I run it up.


Posted By: snowman99 on 02/26/07 12:17pm

I'm a fulltimer since 2000, but new to the forum. My breakdown was a Cummins 400 ISL, 21K, '06 Dynasty and maintained properly. Driving down the road, 60 MPH, catastrophic engine failure. A wrist pin failure allowed the rod to puncture the right side of the block with a 3" X 8" hole created. Also put a small hole on the left side and a hole in the oil pan.

* This post was edited 02/28/07 01:58pm by snowman99 *


Posted By: Oldman on 02/27/07 06:29am

I think I found the problem... there is a diode (cummins calls it a transient suppressor) in the wiring harness. It's part of the harness and has no plug connector, but can be bought my it's self.
It's connected across the wiring to the Injection Control Valve, that's way it triggers the code for the ICV. This thing is bolted to the block next to the starter, hard to get to. I'll let you know if it fixes the beast.


Posted By: garry1p on 03/03/07 08:45pm

1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite
454 throttle body injection.

Fast idle (1200+ RPM) required extra effort for stopping and hard on transmission when putting in gear.

Found bad gasket under the throttle body by spraying WD-40 on base.
Replaced gasket $2.40 and all OK.


Garry1p


1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport



Posted By: Oldman on 03/05/07 07:16am

Well, I ordered the part and installed it. No joy, still runs
bad. I'm about to give up and call Cummins.


Posted By: craigm on 03/08/07 01:40pm

RV particulars: 1983 Pace Arrow 29’
Driveline: 454 dual fuel – gasoline or propane
Miles: 45,000
Year: The coach is an ’83; it happened in 2004
Break Down Description: A seven-year-old right rear inner tire blew on I-15 at 55 mph, 30 miles from home.
Symptoms: Whap-whap-whap of the tread destroying the wheel-well area of the RV.
Effect: No loss of control; had to pull over.
Cause: I was a newbie at class-A RVs, and had no clue about retiring tires that were older than 6 years. The tires were old Michelin X’s, made in 1997, with a good deal of tread but also a good deal of checkering and cracks. The tread separated and lashed out with every revolution of the wheel.
Outcome: The flapping tire chopped off the end of the tailpipe, severed the filler hose to the gas tank and ripped the gas cap assembly off the side of the RV. It cut a bundle of wires going to running lights and cut the fuel line to the generator.

Then it ripped out the metal underfloor, the rigid foam insulation above it and pushed up a section of plywood floor about 3 inches into the coach (it was in a storage area). In the storage area I had two tool boxes, one plastic which now is full of cracks, and the other metal which now has an inward dent in the bottom.

The vibration caused existing cracks in the very old rubber fuel line to the engine to begin to leak. But I didn’t notice that until we got home and wondered why gas drizzled off the frame whenever the engine was running.

My undercarriage inspection also revealed a broken shock mount bolt on the rear, opposite the damage. Don’t know how long that’d been like that.

Being a do-it-yourselfer (you have to be with a 25 year old RV) I have since repaired the damage; I replaced the filler hose and exhaust tip, dropped the gas tank and replaced all the rubber lines, repaired the shock mount bolt, salvaged a gas cap assembly from an old Chevy Suburban, and fixed the floor and insulation of the RV.

And I got six brand new tires.


-Craig & Joan and kids
1983 Pace Arrow 29'
and two Honda ATV's


Posted By: TrailTJ on 03/25/07 09:39am

RV particulars: 2007 Country Coach Tribute

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cat C9 (400HP), Allison 3000

Miles: 4,339

Year: November 22, 2006

Break Down Description: Coolant hose from engine to trans cooler chafed through, causing loss of all engine coolant

Symptoms: Engine warning, then engine shutdown lamp.

Effect:Unable to drive vehicle further (the electronic controls really work)

Cause:Chafed hose allowed all engine coolant to be pumped out of the cooling system.

Outcome: Warranty repair. Coach was towed to local CAT dealer where the hose was replaced, the tranny cooler mounting bracked was ground for clearance, and a broken radiator mount was replaced.


Sam

2009 Haulmark 282DS, Freighliner M2
2013 Toyota URJ200
2004 Trailer World trailer
or
2011 CanAm Spyder RT-S in a Horton Hauler trailer

States visited in current rig (Updated July 2013)



Posted By: rondi on 04/07/07 10:41am

RV particulars: 2005 Tropi-Cal 351, F/L XC
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)AT 300hp, Allison 3000MH
Miles: 17000
Year:2005
Break Down Description: Radiator blew, lost all coolant,
Symptoms: Low Coolant light came on, then Engine Protect light which shut the engine off.
Effect: Disabled
Cause: Hole in radiator in upper right (looking from the rear)
Outcome: Replace CAC & Radiator. Took a week and $3800.

This happened on I15, south of ID Falls, after driving for 2 hours in the morning. It took over 4 hours to get the tow truck out, and this was only after 3 calls from the ISP. I had it repaired in ID Falls by Tranes Diesel Service, a F/L shop. They decided it was a small rock (pea sized) which blew through the CAC and lodged in the radiator, and gradually wore a hole in the cross channel. My insurance, Farm Bureau, will pay for the replacement as Collision coverage. Coach Net decided since it was a Road Hazard, not a breakdown, they would NOT pay for the tow. $3800 was the full bill. IMHO, Freightliner is fully responsible for their non protection of the radiator, and the picking of debris up from the road bed.
ron


Posted By: Oldman on 04/08/07 07:31am

I had the rig towed to Cummins in Orlando. They called me the next day and said the new part I installed was no good and they would replace it and no charge. Wow, that would be nice. A few days later they called back said the new part did not fix the running problem, and they still did not know way it ran so bad. I think they started to just plug in new parts until it ran ok. Any way a few days later they called and said the computer was the problem and it was putting out bad codes and leading us to trying to fix the wrong problem. New computer and code for it plus labor $1888.00. Seems the computer comes with no code info in it. I must say I have little faith it this engine, every time I turn the key I hold my breath. END


Posted By: escaper1 on 04/11/07 12:33pm

Well it happened our first real serious breakdown...We were on our way home from the Keys and where with in 200 miles of home(Thank God).

We were coming north on I-75 on Sunday 04-08-07 and just north of the London exit I lost power steering ( what a shocker it will wake you up real quick)we were in a construction zone. I then notice my temp climbing really fast. I knew then that I had lost my pump or a valve got it off the road and let it cool down and disconnected the tow car and went back to London to get AW-32 Fluid and oil rings before I dropped the priority valve. Unfortunately that was not the problem it was the pump. So what I did was had the wife take the car and her Mother and four of the kids on to Dayton and the oldest boy stayed with me. I was going to have a wrecker pick it up and have it towed home. But when talking to my Dad in Louisville he came up with a real good idea to get me home with it. I could drive with out the power steering just not without the cooling fan. He left Louisville and drove across KY. and picked up two box fans to set in front of the radiator to blow air across them. We tied the electrical cords to a plug and ran the generator to get them to work. With it being a side radiator job the area between the door and the intercooler was large enough to sit the fans and close the door. Had it been a rear radiator I would have been okay because the fan is attached to the engine, but anyway. They could not keep up with heat of the engine but it was a cool night and it would let me drive about 40 -60 miles at a time before I needed to pull over and let it idle down and go again. He followed me all the way to Dayton to make sure it got home. Thanks again Dad!!!!!!! I have now ordered the pump and should be back in commission by the weekend.

Doug.


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 04/18/07 08:44pm

Beaver Monterey
400HP Cat, 3000HD Allison 6 spd
5400 miles
2006 model year
Description of Symptoms and Effect: On the way down I-5 to Monaco's service center to have the windshield replaced under warranty, the Check Engine and Engine Warning lamps come on. I pull over and idle down. They go out. I go another half mile, they come on again. I pull over and they go out. I scratch my head, and drive another half mile, whereupon the lamps come on again, and I pull into a proximal Rest Area and shut down. I call Monaco's Coach Net support and the helpful tech suggests low coolant, i.e. - down below the expansion tank's sensor. How about NO coolant. An inspection shows an empty expansion tank and a jagged crack in the hose under it. The next morning Coach Net has me towed to Monaco's Service Center.

Cause: Techs say the radiator hose was cracked in 5 places along its 6 foot length, and looked old. They surmise that the original hose was probably switched out by dealer to quick repair another coach, and replaced by a hose from an older rig instead of waiting for a new hose.

Outcome: Monaco ordered and installed a new (actually upgraded) hose, and the tech reconfigured the straps that hold it so that hose and others cannot rub against chassis frame members as he noticed the factory had arranged them.

If only Monaco's factory was as efficient as their Service Centers.


Posted By: dontdoit on 05/10/07 01:22am

RV particulars: Tiffin Phaeton
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 C7, Alison
Miles: 4,000
Year: 2007 (less than 5 months old)
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: bottom of pass slide grinding across tile floor
Effect: can barely open slide
Cause: came from factory like this
Outcome: still being worked on

Symptom: Engine check light and protect light came on
Effect: engine shut down
Cause: Caterpillar does not know
Outcome: Cat told me to shut off engine and restart and OK to drive

Symptom: Extremely loud brake squeal on right front
Effect: pulls to right
Cause: out of round brake drum and.....
Outcome: Freightliner still does not have an answer

Symptom: Bunched up fabric covering over driver's slide out
Effect: slide will not retract fully
Cause: improper installation at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in shop

Symptom: Water leak behind connection panel
Effect: fills bay with water
Cause: improper installation of hoses at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in the shop

I won't bore you with the smaller problems. Thanks for the forum.


Posted By: lmrii on 05/10/07 07:11pm

Hi Badeye:
I totally agree with your comment about doing a list of the various components that can frequently break down. I would love to see that done. On our last trip to Fla. we broke a drive axle on rv..was stranded for almost three weeks. Of course there was no way to know axle was going to break. I will be looking to see if your idea develops, and I certainly will do a post of my problem areas.

Robie


Posted By: parkerwarrior on 05/20/07 06:46am

Another tire issue, but is was a brand new Michelin xps rib spare tire, always covered, no weather cracking, looked brand new so I put it into service and made it about 70 miles before I had a blow out-bad experience! Are new old spares known to do this?


Posted By: map40 on 05/20/07 12:36pm

parkerwarrior wrote:

Another tire issue, but is was a brand new Michelin xps rib spare tire, always covered, no weather cracking, looked brand new so I put it into service and made it about 70 miles before I had a blow out-bad experience! Are new old spares known to do this?

How old was it? The 5 to 7 year rule applies to spare tires also.


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 05/20/07 02:30pm

We assume what you mean is that your spare had never been used, but in actuality it wasn't new. It is accepted within the industry and in RV circles that 7 years is the age you want to change your tires, whether they have 30,000 miles or 0. Some say 5 years. I have gone much longer than that by having the tires inspected annually and keeping them minimally exposed to the sun, but there is a limit, and it sounds like your spare reached it. It likely shouldn't have been used any farther than it took to find a tire store and a replacement.


Posted By: kennyc on 05/28/07 06:39am

I had a problem similar to the problem Lil Tucker described. The coach was a new Winnebago Vectra with a 330HP Cat engine and Allison transmission. The coach would not start sometimes. Turn the key several times and it was as though the the batteries were disconnected. Finally, it would start and run fine. I took the coach to Frieghtliner and they worked under the dash for 2 hours looking at the ignition switch, relays, ect. and found nothing. They presented me with a bill for 2 hours of labor. When I protested stating that the coach was new and this should be a warrenty item, they removed one hour, but I still had to pay for one hour. They said it was because they could not find a problem. I left Frieghtliner and stopped at the Flying J to fuel up. Guess what, the engine would not start after fueling. I called Frieghtliner and they sent a mechanic right out. It took him 10 minutes to diagnose the problem and fix it. It was a loose cable connection on the starter. He tightened the connection and that solved the problem. Oh by the way Frieghtliner refunded the money for that hour of labor they charged me after I requested it since they did find a problem.


Posted By: ronnie48 on 05/28/07 09:37am

RV particulars: American Eagle by Fleetwood on Spartan Chassis

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.3 Cummins NON ELECTRONIC, MD 3060 Allison 6 speed

Miles: 104K

Year: 1994

Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)

Symptoms: Took for first quick trip before big trip this weekend and made a stop and now Transmission won't shift after start-up
Effecturrently broke down have Allison coming tomorrow. Have another post going on this but this post is a great idea and wanted to contribute.

Cause: appears to be ECU but will post update tomorrow

Outcome: wasn't the ECU but a loose wire in the plug in the back of ECU, added jump wires to force loop closed in future if it happens again. Saved a costly repair bill

UPDATE: WASN'T LOOSE WIRE BUT A BAD ZERO THOTTLE SENSOR SWITCH AND CABLE ON THE NON ELECTRIC CUMMINS ENGINE, THIS FED WRONG INFO TO THE VIM WHICH INTURN FED THE ECU. PULLED PLUG OFF SENSOR TO LIMP HOME AND WILL CHANGE SENSOR AND CABLE ASAP

* This post was last edited 06/05/07 10:13am by ronnie48 *


Posted By: 1/2 Canadian on 05/28/07 02:07pm

Ronnie-
Good luck tomorrow. Allison people know their stuff and should expedite a fix, but it likely will cost ya a bit. We'll look for your Outcome report. And thanks for following Badeye's reporting parameters in his Breakdowns thread; not everyone does.


Posted By: dontdoit on 05/29/07 04:52am

dontdoit wrote:

RV particulars: Tiffin Phaeton
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 350 C7, Alison
Miles: 4,000
Year: 2007 (less than 5 months old)
Break Down Description:
Symptoms: bottom of pass slide grinding across tile floor
Effect: can barely open slide
Cause: came from factory like this
Outcome: still being worked on

Result: missing 3 bolts that secured cabinet to frame. Frame was not square.

Symptom: Engine check light and protect light came on
Effect: engine shut down
Cause: Caterpillar does not know
Outcome: Cat told me to shut off engine and restart and OK to drive

Result: Injection accuation error. Cat said there was nothing they could do about it.

Symptom: Extremely loud brake squeal on right front
Effect: pulls to right
Cause: out of round brake drum and.....
Outcome: Freightliner still does not have an answer

Freightliner denied any problem. Said it was Tiffin's transport driver, then they said it was because Tiffin didn't align coach, then they said it was in spec so they weren't going to do anything to fix it. Funny thing, there was another 2007 Phaeton at the Freightliner dealer at the time my coach was there with the same problem.

Symptom: Bunched up fabric covering over driver's slide out
Effect: slide will not retract fully
Cause: improper installation at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in shop

Result: Slide topper was not put on straight at the factory.

Symptom: Water leak behind connection panel
Effect: fills bay with water
Cause: improper installation of hoses at tiffin factory
Outcome: still in the shop

Result: missing clamp

I won't bore you with the smaller problems. Thanks for the forum.



Posted By: outsider1924 on 05/29/07 07:32am

RV particulars: Tiffin Allegro Bay
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 190HP Cummins 5.9L, 4spd Allison AT542
Miles: 52,000
Year: 1992
Break Down Description: Driving 70mph up I-65 in south Alabama, notice the temp guage start rising, then raises real fast past the red. Then the coolant light came on. Shut the engine off, drifted to the shoulder. Waited 30 minutes for it to cool, drove it a 10th of a mile, turned off, waited another 30... and so forth. Eventually I made it to an exit and parked it in a Shell station parking lot.

Symptoms: Coolant light on, Engine overheated (instantly i might add), gallons of collant all over the roadway

Effect: Engine overheats hotter than the core of a nuclear reactor and quick.

Cause: broken pulley bearing on water pump. (bad water pump)

Outcome: put on a new water pump in a gas station parking lot and hit the road!




Always carry your tool box!!!


Posted By: dontdoit on 05/29/07 07:37am

You bet!


Posted By: buckhorn on 05/30/07 05:54am

!988 Gulfstream Class "C"
350 chev. auto trans
Trans puked 40 miles east of Butte MT
4 days in Butte, the longest month of my trip.
Never saw a town roll up the sidewalks before.


arts@crcom.net


Posted By: Algrayson on 06/05/07 02:05pm

Our tow vehicle, a 1987 Ford E150, blew its water pump. Standing at the parts house, another customer overheard me and offered to help me fix it in his old car restoration shop at his house. Put the wife and kids up at his house and we worked all night air-hammering the water pump off the timing cover - it was corroded about solid with the cover! He wouldn't take a cent for working all night on our rig! The Ford is still going strong 7+ yrs. later. [Sent him a $100 money order as a token of appreciation.]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 06/07/07 11:05am

RV: 1994 Fleetwood Bounder
Engine: 190HP, 5.9L, 6BT5.9
Tranni: Allison 4 speed
135,000 miles

Description of symptoms: Began hearing a strange noise from the rear of the coach that got louder then the radio. Pulled over at a rest stop and put my hand on each hubcap. Found a hot one on the drivers side rear of the coach. Also smelled something strange near that wheel. Allowed wheel to cool then slowly (under 45MPH) drove 20 miles to where I could deal with the problem, made a few calls and got into a shop near my home town.

Problem: The left rear bearing failed, probably caused by hitting a speed bump in Mexico the month before at 55MPH. The spindle had cracked and a leak of differential oil had ruined the brake pad.

Solution: The bad spindle had to be sawed off, a new one machined and then welded in place and further machined with a neat milling machine that hangs right on the axle & spindle assembly ($1300 just for that job). Replaced bearings on both sides (rear). Replaced brake pads both sides (rear).

Cost: $2500


Posted By: skhpa on 06/10/07 07:58am

Hi - we're new to rvs and found this post. What a great idea! Have you compiled the results yet? If so, please let me know where I can review them.

thanks
sharon


Posted By: frankv on 06/15/07 07:46am

We had the flywheel (flex plate) brake on our ford chassis in granite city missoui, went to local ford dealer there and it was repaired in about 6 hours. Very nice and helpful mechanic there. Was only charged for labor as fly wheel was under some kind of warrety.


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 06/15/07 11:16am

RV: 1994 Fleetwood Bounder
Engine: 190HP, 5.9L, 6BT5.9
Tranni: Allison 4 speed
135,000 miles

Description of symptoms: On a cool day and during a short drive, noticed engine temp was up near the red zone on the gage. Since it didn't appear to be heading for the red, drove a couple more miles and parked.

Problem: The belt had broken.

Solution: Called a mobile service company and they replaced belt.


Posted By: nydino on 07/03/07 03:15pm

Great idea, however, consider logging if they are covered by a maintenance plan and with who.


Posted By: macira on 07/03/07 09:10pm

Chevrolet 7.4 Vortec 4l80e transmission
65000
1999
moving along at 60+ engine died, would not restart
MH was towed to Amarillo,Texas (130 miles)
Replaced fuel pressure regulator, 8 fuel injectors, 8 Spark Plugs, Distributor cap and Rotor. $3400
Fuel presssure was only 20lbs and 4 injectors were leaking. Cap and rotor just needed new ones.
Now it runs!!


Mac USAF retired
2001 Seaview 32 ft model 8311
Ford f53
2007 HHR
Brake buddy
Falcon2 Towbar


Posted By: mike2wheels on 07/06/07 10:29am

We recently broke down in Newport, Oregon, the marina RV park.

Driving a Rexhall Rolls Air on a Spartan chassis, Cummins 6CTA8.3 engine. As I was checking the coach prior to pulling out on a Friday morning I noticed an oily film on the ground next to the left front tire. It seemed that the oil in that hub was a little low so I removed the red plug to check. When I reinserted the plug the plastic window broke and pushed into the hub cavity, dumping the hub oil.

I called Good Sam ERS, who contacted Newport Diesel, who called us back. Newport Diesel said it would be Monday before they could obtain and install a new hub seal. However, one of their guys showed up in the early afternoon and removed the hub cap to take it back to the shop where they would replace the plastic window. Late that same afternoon another guy returned with the rebuilt hub cap and we were ready to go by 5 pm. We paid for labor and parts; Good Sam ERS paid for the service calls.


2005 Honda Gold Wing
2010 Dodge Ram 3500 QC Cummins
2013 Cedar Creek Silverback 35FL


Posted By: joyjohnr on 07/09/07 05:33pm

First breakdown in our 2000 Holiday Rambler Imperial. Cummins ISC 350 with 47,000 miles. On our way home and two lights erupt on the dash. WARNING and STOP ENGINE. Obviously I stop the engine . After looking for anything obvious, I restart the engine. WARNING and STOP ENGINE light again. Not overheated, shows good oil pressure, everything seems O.K. but lights persist. Call Good Sam ERS and instead of a tow to a competent service center, I get a service call from totally imcompetent provider. After 48hrs (Yes 48 hrs.) they replace the oil pressure sensor. Warning light persists. I am forced to call Cummins service assistence as these clowns can't even tell me if its safe to drive. Suprise, its now drivable but needs to go to Cummins to be reprogramed to run properly.
Moral of the story. Insist that you be towed to a shop with certified and competent diesel mechanics.


Posted By: JudMcLn on 07/11/07 10:45pm

RV: 2006 Allegro Bay 34XB, Jeep Grand Cherokee toad, 8300 miles, GM8.1 on a W22 Workhorse Chassis.

Driving at 60mph on I75 15 miles north of Tampa with extremely heavy traffic, lost all power steering,engine light illuminated and an almost immediate engine overheat occurred. Luckily we were traveling in the right lane and were able to safely bring the coach to a stop. Called Workhorse, they sent one of those huge tow vehicles and within two hours had been towed to a Workhorse Service Center. The serpintine belt had broke with only 8300 miles, cause was unknown.

Workhorse did a great job getting to us as fast as they did and took care of everything under the warrenty with no questions asked and no outlay of cash needed on my part at any time.

Things happen real fast when that belt breaks. Steering that monster without power steering takes a huge amount of effort. If we had been in the center or left lane we could have had real problems getting off the road safely considering how heavy the traffic was.


Posted By: abba12210 on 07/18/07 09:42pm

[quote=fhalasz]All RV particulars: Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins ISC 350, Allison 3000MH Miles: About 35000 (then); 43000 (now) Year:2001 Break Down Description: Erratic gauge display, engine stumble. Symptoms:Speedometer would flick up to maximum, then back to correct road speed, at irregular intervals (generally less than one minute apart.) At the same moment, engine would stumble, but recover to full power. Effect: Disconcerting but driveable. Cause: Unsure (see below) Outcome:Corrected itself after several miles at low speed during a detour. Recurred several days (and many miles) later. Took it to Cummins in Albuquerque on return home; they could not duplicate the problem (but charged for trying.) Eventually I crawled under the coach and inspected two wires connected to tranny where illustration indicated the speed sensor output might be. Wires looked good; disconnected and re-connected them anyway. The problem has not recurred. ** I had same problem with an ISC / Allison 330, Would like to see that summary / count.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: summerwinds48 on 07/20/07 12:21pm

To Abba,
Had a similar problem last year with my 1994 P30 Itasca. The speedometer system is electronic. Problem started when the speedometer was zooming up to 90mph+ while doing about 50mph. Engine idled down when this happened, but recovered when I slowed to below 47. Eventually the speedometer was always showing double the speed and the odometer was recording double mileage constantly. Could not exceed 47 mph. Talked to a speedometer shop, and they wanted to start with the control head, then work backwards. Nuts, WOuld have cost megabucks. So, I started with the speed sensors on the tranni. Replaced both the speed sensor and the ABS sensor. No change, then after researching, found the cause was a small elecronic board under the dash. It's the buffer board, the electronic equivalent of gears in mechanical speedometer system. Removed, and tracked down a replacement through Delco. Cost, $70. Installed, and now works perfect, both speedometer and odometer.


Posted By: dajablock on 07/26/07 07:32am

Just found your post on speedometer problem . Same thing happened with me on our 95 adventurer. Also I have narrowed it down to the buffer and have not been able to find a source to buy it other than my chevrolet dealer ordering it to the tune of $175.00 Could You give me your source?
dajablock@lowcountry.com
David Blocker 843-835-2173


Posted By: irish2fire on 08/22/07 06:58pm

RV Particulars:Fleetwood Discovery, 275 Cummins, Allison 6 speed tranny.
Mileage: 34,000
Year: 2000

Getting ready for trip from NC to Fla. Two days prior had M3 (full service) on chassis. Loaded and ready to go. Engine turned over but would not start. Checked around coach smelled diesel fuel. Looked under engine and found fuel water seperator leaking. Tightened it , but engine still would not start. I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He said there was probably air in the fuel lines. He talked me through switching the ignition switch on and off at intervals to "fool" the fuel pump into thinking that the engine had started. It worked much to my amazement.

On my way from NC to rally at San Antonio, Tx. Just outside Austin, Tx
yellow check engine light came on. I immediatly pulled over and went around coach and could not find anything wrong. All gauges working properly, nothing unusual around the engine compartment. Again I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He advised that if everything was working normally that it was probably something minor. He recommended I go to a Cummins dealer in San Antonio after the rally. I did, and they found a wire broken at the intake heater. A quick fix.

Even though these were not on the road breakdowns, when something happens its good to know that someone has the knowledge to help you.


Posted By: Dave Magnusson on 08/22/07 09:43pm

Although I have been a member for a few years we have only now have an class "A" and are serious about being snow birds; I look foward to your summary.


Posted By: PF&PM on 08/24/07 05:02pm

8.1 litre, in a Workhorse. Driving along just fine at 60mph..engine light comes on and warning says "Low Engine Power"...struggle over to a turn out shut it off, check fluids, all OK, restart every thing is OK..???Wadda..? Few days later in rain step on gas up hill engine coughs spits surges..let off gas and all OK...Wadda..?


2005 Newmar 34' Kountry Star, 8.1L W22, Blue Ox 10K, Honda Pilot, Bijon Shitzu (Sassy) dash dog, Two teenage boys..we get around ! Nine Provinces, Two Territories, 47 States, Northern Mexico... so far..


Posted By: Mike Wilson on 09/21/07 01:52pm

RV particulars: Alegro Bay
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse W22
Miles: < 8K
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Brakes sticking.
Symptoms: Apparent loss of power.
Effect: Stranded on one ocassion in southern Kentucky, had to tow RV 250 miles to Knoxville, TN.
Cause: Replaced front rotors.
Outcome: Initially no cost for the first time this happened.

Brakes stuck again, 6 months out of warranty. That is when it REALLY COST ME. Workhorse said tough luck, so after 4 new rotors, calipers, wheel sensors, and other misc stuff, it cost me $4200 out of pocket.

The dealer told me the original calipers were junk and the pistons had seezed up in the bore, causing this issue. They see this very frequently. They told me Workhorse knows it, but because it was out of warranty they would not stand behind it. Pin slides were well greased (which is what Workhorse requires annually).

I loved Workhorse prior to this. Now I will never own another Workhorse chassis, and I will make sure everyone I have the opportunity to speak with knows of my Workhorse experience. I paid the bill and imediately traded the otherwise great coach in for a deisel pusher on a Freightliner chassis.



pulsar wrote:

RV particulars: 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V – Workhorse W-20 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.

Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.

Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA

Tom



Posted By: threedogtrip on 09/23/07 07:45pm

Cummins ISB 5.9L
Allison 4 Spd

Friday:

ISB Overheated: Temps rose. High temp light on. Check engine light on. Power loss. Shut down in parking lot. Coolant blew, along with soft plug and overflow tank.

Conclusion: Water pump belt broke. Belt replaced. Added coolant, new overflow resevoir, added coolant, brought to temp. Temp stable.

Saturday:

Same symptons. Pulled onto scenic pull out.

Conclusion: Water pump probably failed (impeller?)

Will report on the rest as known.

Moral: Always carry spares belts!

Conclusion:: Water pump gone. Replaced along with thermostat.

* This post was edited 09/28/07 08:31pm by threedogtrip *


Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.
--- Philip K. Dick


1999 Gulfstream Sunvoyager
(Our Gulfstream Home Site)
2006 Jeep Wranger
Doberlady
German Shedder Dog
Rescued Gentleman (In Spirit)



Posted By: sheba516 on 09/29/07 03:59pm

>>

We have a Ford V10. We were loosing power when it rained. The first time was about 3 years ago when we were near Denver going up a hill and hit a downpour. The next time was last fall when we left NH heading for work in FL. It was raining, going up a hill when we lost power. We struggled along staying on flat roads as much as possible since the problem did not show itself then. After spending the night in a parking lot and running out of flat road, calling 'mechanics' in the FMCA membership book, we finally called Camping World back in Wilsonville, OR. Art spoke with the guy we dealt with there all the time and it came up with the problem which we had forgotten about.

Ford knows there is this design problem with their big engine: water sprays up off the road into the air filter. Mechanics even recommend you build a 'box' under it to help prevent this but we have not figured out how to do it.

When Art opened the air filter, sure enough the filter was full of water. He dumped it out, shook water out of the filter as best he could, then we were able to go. We made it from MA down to VA to my brothers praying for no more rain. When we were going thru Hartford, CA it was raining. Once we got thru town we found a shopping mall where we spent the night. The next day we made it to VA where Art bought a new filter and threw the wet one away.

This sounds like your problem. We try to avoid driving in rain, especially heavy rain although regular rain can cause the problem too.

Good luck


Posted By: gettinright on 09/30/07 11:46am

I just experienced a Fuel Pump Problem with the 330 Cat in my 2004 Discovery. Finally they got it repaired properly.

Would like to know if anyone else has had a Fuel Problem with CAT?


Posted By: Nelly1052 on 09/30/07 05:40pm

1995 Holiday Rambler Navigator with 8.3, 300 hp Cummins. Intermittant problem with turning over but won't start. We're sure its not getting fuel. After it starts, sometimes it stops even going down the road. Checked fuel solinoid. WE think it may be the fuel pump but we don't know if its electric or manual. Not sure where it is. Fuel filters have been replaced. We're on the road but not sure what to do. Owner took it to dealer for problem but worked perfect while there. Anybody familiar with this problem?


2004 38N Bounder DP
2004 Honda CRV toad

M&G Braking System


Posted By: gettinright on 09/30/07 06:06pm

I just spent 10 extra days coming back from California to Georgia because of a similar problem with a 330 CAT and it was the fuel pump.

They put a new injection pump and fuel pump on in LA and worked on it again in Phoenix and put another new fuel pump on in Albuquerque, NM and it has been great since CAT replaced the fuel pump the second time.

We were towed three times at a very high cost. Fortunetly we had insurance and Freightliner and CAT did the repairs under warrant and paid to have it towed one time.

On our unit it has no primer pump. If your has a primer pump you may start it that way.


Posted By: outsider1924 on 10/01/07 01:02pm

Nelly1052 wrote:

1995 Holiday Rambler Navigator with 8.3, 300 hp Cummins. Intermittant problem with turning over but won't start. We're sure its not getting fuel. After it starts, sometimes it stops even going down the road. Checked fuel solinoid. WE think it may be the fuel pump but we don't know if its electric or manual. Not sure where it is. Fuel filters have been replaced. We're on the road but not sure what to do. Owner took it to dealer for problem but worked perfect while there. Anybody familiar with this problem?


I would bet on an electrical problem to the solenoid or the fuel pump. Like an exposed wire grounding out.


Posted By: poodlesuzieq on 10/10/07 09:17am

PICKED UP BRAND NEW TIFFIN ALEGRO WITH WORKHORSE CHASSIE AND ALLISON TRANSMISSION GOT 10 MILES FROM DEALER AND LOST POWER. ENGIN RUNNING OK BUT SPEED DECREASING. 2 HRS LATER TOWED BACK TO DEALER STILL HAVE NOT HEARD WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. ALWAYS HEARD GREAT THINGS ABOUT THIS ENGIN AND TRANSMISSION


Posted By: gettinright on 10/10/07 07:49pm

330 HP Cat 3126, Freightliner Chassis. Engine shut down I-10 LA, CA had to be towed. Got it repaired at LA Frt in Fontana, they installed a new Injector Pump and Fuel Pump Assembly. Drove to Phoenix and it shut down again and was towed to AZ Freightliner and repaired. Drove to Albuquerque, NM where Wagner Cat worked on it and got it running and we drove to Santa Fe, NM and had to be towed back to Wagner where they installed a new Fuel Pump and it made it back to Georgia.

We lost 10 days and paid our dues waiting in the dealerships. They were very helpful but really had a serious problem getting it fixed.

The story is a lot longer than this, but this is the general situation. Why the original pump went out and then the new one they replaced it with also went out is a mystery to me.

Freightliner Chassis folks and the CAT Folks were very helpful and repaired the 2004 Fleetwood Discovery under the Warranty.

I would highly recommend that you folks who own Motor Homes be sure to have towing insurance.

This is the first time we have been towed since 1964. It definitely was a new experience for us.

Clyde & Gloria Smith
2004 Fleetwood Discovery 39s
Freightliner Chassis
CAT 330













folks were very helpful. The repairs were done under the warranty.


Posted By: Gadget Guy on 10/23/07 08:07am

2003 34 ft Knight. Just returned from our cross Canada trip over the worst highways I have ever seen. Broke down half way between Thunder Bay and Sault St Marie. Right rear trailing arm snapped off while doing close to 60 MPH. Lucky to be alive as this immediately put us into the oncoming traffic, but lucky that at that instant no one was coming. I must say that my Safe-T-Steer did the job. Regained instant control. Called Good Sam for help and I must say they did try and find a suitable low trailer to load us but unsuccessful. A local person stopped and put me onto a good Truck shop some 25 miles down the highway. He came out and we pulled the axle back in place and temporarily secured it enough to slowly travel to his shop. Called Monaco and even though well past warranty they sent new trailing arms and paid for the installation. This had been a recall issue and I had taken it in to our local dealer for inspection but was informed that mine was OK so the replacement ones were not installed. Confirms my belief that most dealers don't have a clue when it comes to MH repair. We spent 10 days waiting for parts because the parts got hung up in Canadian Customs because the agent didn't like the paper work and the description written on them After 4 days we finally got the parts released. Walford Truck and Tractor did an excellent job on the repair. Just the owner and his son and they did great work and made our 10 day stay as pleasant as possible. Monaco's first question was if I had acted on my recall. As soon as they determined that I had, warranty was not an issue. They did say that less than 50% of MH owners pay attention to recalls, so my advise is make sure that you pay attention to recall notices and have them done by hopefully a competent shop which is what let me down. We thank the good Lord that we are alive and did not kill some one else, it could have been a terrible accident.


Posted By: gairef on 10/26/07 03:39pm

1997 Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser-36 Ft.
250 8.3 Cummins
Allison Trans.

Anyone have any problems with diesel fuel supply line leaks?


Posted By: catscratch on 12/15/07 02:59pm

RV particulars:
97 Monaco Dynasty 40' Pusher
Driveline 350 Cummins - Allison 3000 World Transmission - Kingcruise throttle and cruise control
Miles: 36,000
Year: 1997
Break Down Description: Throttle would not work - intermittent problem. Would come and go without any indication of why.
Symptoms: Transmission ECU display showed "service" under Mode indicator light. Would shift into D and R, but no throttle.
Effect: Stuck - could not move.
Cause: Loose or dirty connection in 12v hot and/or ground wire between cruise control computer and coach 12v supply/chassis.
Outcome: Unplugged all electrical connectors to cruise unit and throttle position switch; cleaned with spray electrical contact cleaner and reconnected several times.
Helpful resource: King cruise web site. SEE my other post on the Tech forum for details for thi smust have free publication for troubleshooting the King system. Feel free to contact me if you have same problem. I fixed it in 5 minutes with the guide's help.


Posted By: zmotorsports on 12/21/07 07:50am

We were traveling with some friends a few years ago in our 30" gasser going through Seattle on I-5 when I looked in the rear view mirror and saw smoke pouring out from under the motorhome. Pulled over and found a transmission cooler line had fractured right where the farrel is going into the transmission. We unhooked the Jeep and drove to the nearest grocery/auto parts store(no joke) and bought a 18" lenght of 3/8" rigid line and spliced it in. Added a couple quarts of Dexron and away we went. All of this in afternoon/evening rush hour traffic.
Then the following year with the same couple of friends going to Mt. Rushmore when we were pulling into Custer, SD his Itasca decided it didn't like the 100 degree temperatures and quit running. We unhooked our Jeep and pulled it to a wide spot in the road. We fired up our generator and A/C and let everyone hang out is our coach while we worked on his. Found the ignition coil was going south on him. It had too high resistance. I packed some ice around it turned the hair dryer on cool and cooled it down enough to bring the resistance down enough to go the next 10 miles to the campground we were staying at. When we got camp set up we got a new coil and all was well until three days later going into Sheridan, Wy when his motorhome started acting up again. This time as we were coming off the freeway about 300 yards from the KOA entrance. Again unhooked the Jeep and towed him into the campground. Found a bad fuel pump so the next morning we proceeded to drop the fuel tank and change out the fuel pump with the updated Ford unit. The rest of the trip was uneventful and when we returned home he put it up for sale. He was done with RVing. I tried to tell him that this is part of it but I don't think he believed me.
Last February with our new coach we were about 1/2 mile from home just leaving for a weekend shakedown run with the new coach and it died. We coasted to the side of the road and started to troubleshoot. After about an hour and a half of diagnosing and testing I found the wire that goes to the front television lockout was shorted and kept tripping the circuit breaker for the main power soleniod. I unhooked it and off we went. By this time it was pitch black outside and I was frozen, my wife was sitting in the nice warm coach reading a magazine and I asked her if she still wanted to go and she said hell yes we are on vacation(even though I could have thrown a rock and hit our house). So off we went and had an enjoyable weekend. I guess you take the good with the bad. Still wouldn't give up my RV. Mike.


2003 Monaco Dynasty/ 26' Haulmark Edge trailer
2011 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon



Posted By: pkunk on 12/28/07 08:40pm

metalmangler wrote:

Quote:

"...Chassis battery's runs down.

Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"


Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.


I stopped buying interstate batteries because they die within a year.
Want a good RV battery? look into Optima.


1999 Coachman Mirada 34 ft.V10-F53 chassis
12ft.LR slide-2 gp31 AGM 12V @220AH



Posted By: younchem on 12/30/07 10:22am

pkunk wrote:

metalmangler wrote:

Quote:

"...Chassis battery's runs down.

Outcome: Replace battery's (less than a year old, Interstate batterys, would not hold a charge.)"


Batteries less than a year old not holding a charge? That's a symptom, not a cause, even if it caused something else in turn. You'll be doing this in about a year (or less) again, unless you can isolate & correct what causes it.


I stopped buying interstate batteries because they die within a year.
Want a good RV battery? look into Optima.


If you are killing Interstate batteries in a year then something is incredibly diffrerent with your setup or usage/procedures. The variables here are many.

I've used almost every type of Optima battery in many different settings and can tell you that Optima batteries are not a magic pill, either. They sound good and work well in high vibrational situations but I think that for RVing are an over-kill. Wet-cell batteries--used and maintained properly--will last as long as AGM batteries and vise-versa.

On the other hand, due to your habits you may be drawing-down the Interstate battery too much and killing it so an AGM battery, more forgiving in this area, may be for you especially if your habits/usage/procedures do not change.

Based on your situation you probably didn't have enough wet-cell battery capacity to begin with. And sometimes its impractical to try to add additional cells.


Posted By: krisfrank on 12/30/07 05:31pm

Great idea Sticky

RV particulars: 2006 Kountry Star
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ummins 350, Allison 6 speed
Miles: 3,000 +/-
Year:2007-break in trip, Oregon to Wis.
Break Down Description: Back of the coach covered with oil spray
Symptomsame as above
Effect: Whoa-what do we do now?
Cause: Dip stick tube laid against turbo exhaust and melted through.
Outcome: Towed 50 miles, temporary repair by the great crew at Ed's Truck Sales and Service in Fort Pierre, South Dakota. Very reasonable charge as we paid it ourselves rather than wait for warranty authorization-we were already running late.
Later a new dip stick tube.

Thanks for getting this started.


Posted By: just_loafin on 12/30/07 09:25pm

We left Northern California for New York in Sept this year...While in North Carolina one morning the Coach was hard starting...After two attempts it started up...I thought because it was cold outside that was the reason....Heading about ten miles down the road we came to a small town with a stop light after stopping the motor stalled..After starting it up we got thru the light and I looked around to see if I could find any problem...My fuel gage was at 1/2 tank??? I just fueled up that night...Knowing now I had a serious problem I could not find a place to pull over.. kept going till we hit another small town...Was able to pull off next to a vacant building...When I go out I found a trail of diesel fuel following me in...
Lifted bed what a mess fuel everywhere...Had the engine turned over while I looked ...Found the metal fuel line snapped completely off at the banjo fitting on the engine it self..
Drove to Greensborough in my toad and picked up a new fuel line..The new one has a damper installed in the middle to prevent the line from breaking...5.9 Cummins...1996 Endeavor....40,000 miles
If you have one of these just change it...I had read about the problem and determined it was older coaches than mine having this problem...I inspected mine and thought no way this line could break it was mounted in there solid....Wrong....If you do not have one with a break in the line where a damper is installed...better replace the line or at least carry a new updated one....
just_loafin


Posted By: Normph on 12/31/07 04:58pm

Driveline: ISL 350 Allison 6
Date of breakdown: 10/29/07

We were driving east on I 10 between Phoenix and Tuscon when we heard a loud pop coming from the rear of the coach. Smoke was pouring out of the rear; the stop engine light came on and a warning buzzer sounded. We stopped without incident (fortunately). Oil was splattered all over the rear of the coach and the entire toad.
We had a blown rod.

Our engine S/N was within the recall sequence.

Two months earlier we had the recall performed (pressure sensor istalled in valve area which was to trigger an alarm after which engine shutdown was required to prevent engine damage. The alarm and the engine failure occurred at the same time.


Norm FNorm F


Posted By: LandYachtRevival on 01/02/08 10:04pm

RV particulars: 2004 Fleetwood Revolution 40C
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ummins DP 350HP, Allison 3000
Miles:64,000
Year:2004
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: 1. Squeeking noise from engine compartment 2.- Low Collant Level Alarm 3. Overheat Alarm and temp gauge reaching 230 degrees
Effectngine Overheat
Causeerpentine belt broke as a result of belt tensioner lockup.
Outcome:
Good service from Coach-Net tow (2 hours after call)
Excellent service from Empire Truck Service in Gulfport, MS. Had tensioner in stock and got belt locally. Fixed same day!!!!!
Cost $139.50 labor; $172.00 parts.

Only problem - tower did not want to reinstall driveline as his wenches were failing so had to pay truck service but Coach-Net says they will reimburse.

Lesson learned -- I should not have left CG after noting squeeking noise after starting engine. Got stranded 400 miles from base.

Joe


Revival
2004 Fleetwood Revolution 40C
2012 GMC Terrain
KE5LU



Posted By: FSTEDYRV on 01/06/08 09:36am

Badeye wrote:

After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.

What do you think?



Posted By: FSTEDYRV on 01/06/08 09:47am

RV particulars: 2002 dutchstar
Driveline (cummins 3oo isb):
Miles:1400,15000,18000
Year:2003 & 2004
Break Down Description: no power , fuel dash light 3 separate times
Symptoms:no power
Effectax speed 30mph
Cause:low fuel pressure light
Outcom;removed several sensors on fuel sensor, finally cut wires on fuel filter & reprogram engine software.


Posted By: FSTEDYRV on 01/06/08 10:46am

RV particulars:2006 presidio
Driveline330hp cummins-allison
Year:2006
Break Down Description:NO start @15k,18k &20K intermittently
Symptoms:no start intermittently
Effectestart on house batterys problem then goes away sometimes to return later.
CauseOOR engine ground
OutcomeNgine GROUND cleaned and and tighted. Impossiple to see from outside.


Posted By: foxriverguy on 01/11/08 12:34pm

Badeye

I think you idea has lots of merit. I also suggest you post it on the Escapees Forum. In my opinion this the most read and most active forum on the www.

Good luck


Posted By: ranger7 on 01/16/08 11:36am

Put my 33 ft. Fleetwood in for a repair at "RV Sales and Service" on I-24 in Smyrna Tennessee. I told the Shop foreman that it was "NOT" winterized as we stopped from a trip to have it worked on an were going to proceed after service was completed. I asked them to either winterize it or to please turn on the furnace. The next week had the coldest nights of the season. They didn't do anything.

I picked up the coach and proceeded to New Orleans, our next destination. I noticed the fresh water tank was empty and stopped at a rest stop and started to fill the tank to 1/2 full as I usually do to help with road side emergencies.

When I turned on the water, water sprayed from under and in the coach from every where. They had let the system freeze and destroyed the water piping in most of the coach.

So far I have not received a "sorry" or a apology from anyone at RV Sales and Service.

BEWARE!! of their "Service"

enuf said!!


Posted By: corgi-traveler on 01/19/08 07:45pm

RV particulars: 1988 Fleetwood Bounder 32K

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460 --Deere chassis
Miles: 29K
Year:1988
Break Down Description: Going up a hill engine began to backfire, then sputter, then died. Once the engine died, could not get any power to restart.

Symptoms: On the surface it appeared the battery was dead, nothing at all happened when you turned the ignition, not even with the auxiliary start.

Effect: A perfect storm of electrical problems and fuel delivery problems. Also using the aux start ran our house batteries down, and we blew a fuse in the converter. Don't know if that was part of the same issues, or a coincidence.

Cause: A) the gaskets on the fuel filters did not fit. Had been replaced the day before our trip, had not seated correctly, and were sucking air into the fuel line instead of fuel.

B) loose wire powering the fuel pump... bad connection that was shorting out.


Outcome: replaced gaskets, re-spliced wire and we appear to be running OK. Also put on new spark plugs and wires just for good measure. (it was still running with the originals)

* This post was edited 01/20/08 10:14am by corgi-traveler *


Samantha (the poster)
Tim, spouse and driver of the Corgi-Bus
Buddy, Diva, and Pippin - Pembroke Welsh Corgis



Posted By: Luv To Fish on 01/20/08 06:18am

Great Information.


One Beautiful Wife
Two Great Dogs
2007 Fleetwood Revolution 40 LE
Someday Has Come....
COMMON SENSE, NEVER LEAVE HOME W/O IT !


Posted By: MonacoRon on 01/21/08 08:05am

1998 Monaco Dynasty 38'
45K miles
325 Cummins/Allison

While traveling I-55 in MS heading toward Memphis, I noticed a loss of power condition which seemed to come-and-go. Assuming fuel filter problems, I stopped in a rest area and after a diesel bath, I was back on the road. The intermittent problem continued. When we pulled in to a campground for the night, the engine would not cut off (I had previously noticed a short, 1-second delay when switching the key off but thought it was my imagination). Turned out that the fuel shutoff solenoid bracket had broken and the solenoid had finally dislodged. It was hanging by the wiring and had shorted internally. We had to raise the bed to stop the engine for the rest of the trip and went through four more of the $397 solenoids before I traced the problem to a relay whose contacts were sticking closed. (BTW: A "certified" Cummins repair facility did the replacements and a mechanically-challenged owner was finally fed up enough to solve the real problem.)

My advise is to know where your shutoff is located on whatever diesel engine you have. I can testify that a cardboard box over the air intake on a turbo charged Cummins is NOT the way to shut the engine down. :-)


Nawth AlaBamma


Posted By: DeweyClawson on 01/22/08 10:53am

Driveline (Engine, Transmission)P
Miles:N/A
Year:N/A
Break Down Description: Bought 7yr old dp from boat dealer as is. It had sat at FL marina for 2 yrs. Fuel gauge read empty so the sales man got a jerry can from his shop and I got ten gals of diesel from the marina. Drained the fuel/water sep iaw coach label. motor would no longer run. Called mech and he tried to help over phone but was not able to get out for 2 days, mfgr also very helpful. Back to trouble shooting 101. "When something doesn't work- what was the last thing I touched."
Symptomsngine would not start.
Effect: Learned how fuel system works.
Cause:Air getting into lines at water sep drain. felt tightened but was previously cross threaded and very hard to turn.
Outcome:New water sep filter and plastic bowl when I got it home.


The fool learns from his own mistakes.
It is the wise man who learns from the mistakes of others.


Posted By: detilebug on 01/22/08 07:31pm

After sitting for a few hours, days, or weeks I have this problem with the Motorhome. It is a 1999 Dutch Star Diesel Pusher, made by Newmar, with a 300 HP Cummins engine, six speed Allison transmission, Spartan Chassis, Mountain Master suspension.
As I start out, the transmission will shift, it seems very hard, from 1st to 2nd and on up to 4th gear. By hard, I mean the Rpm's go higher then when it shifts normal. The RPM goes all the way up to 2100 or sometimes 2200 RPM before shifting. Then when it gets into 4th gear it will not go any higher, I have tried up hills, down hills, load, no load, and it will not shift any higher. I also know it is not going to shift because the display number changes to "4" and will not change until slowing down, at 15 miles per HR, it will change back to 6. When it shifts correctly, the display always shows "6" and does not change. When shifting correctly, it will shift at about 1500 to 1600 Rpm's.
To get it to shift correctly, I have discovered that if I stop, shut the engine off, wait a few seconds and restart, it will shift correctly. I have taken the motorhome to a Certified Allison transmission Dealer and a Motorhome Certified Dealer. They have each charged me a lot of money and have not fixed the problem. To me it is like rebooting a computer and everything works fine. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doane


Posted By: kjames90755 on 01/27/08 05:07pm

Oooh boy! This is gonna be fun!

1. Got our rig in June 2006, used from a dealer, who checked and changed all fluids fresh, oil, coolant, etc., as part of a pre-delivery Good Sam Used RV Dealer Checklist.
2. Made 4-5 short trips.
3. Was headed for Laughlin, NV, on I-40, east out of Barstow. Climbing the grade to the Ludlow turnoff we started overheating, and so pulled off the road at that exit. Called Good Sam Roadside Assistance and were advised to let engine cool down 45min-1hour, then we'd be able to get back on the road.
4. Got about 1.5 miles East the I-40, and were stuck on the side of I-40 from 4:30pm, until 7:30am the next morning before a flatbed trailer tow arrived.
4.a. Good Sam couldn't locate us on the computer when we called, even using GPS Co-ordinates. (This was their Emergency Roadside Assistance) Finally got located with I-40 and name of the road for the Ludlow exit.

Did I mention that I was driving, my partner was co-pilot (a wheelchair user who had to be carried from his seat to the bed/bathroom and in/out of the rig, a friend of ours was going with us, and we were taking my 86 year-old grandmother and her 79 year old friend (who uses a walker) to the Avi, and that we had our two dogs with us as well?

5. Won't go into what this tow driver's shop told us...but if you ever break down near Bartow, CA, PAY TO HAVE YOUR RIG TOWED TO EITHER NEEDLES OR BACK TO CALIFORNIA! It cost us $900 to tow back to Orange County, but the repair savings was $13K, and 9 weeks. (Cost us $5K and 3 weeks)
6. Our tech in Orange County found so much rust in the radiator and coolant that he said, "could not be accounted for by the amount of time you've owned the rig. If the coolant had been changed, this water would be yellowish-green, it's bright orange." We told him to replace the radiator, hoses and engine.
7. He replaced the engine and hoses, but not the radiator. Our next trip to SFO pointed that out to us...but we didn't count it against him--he had still saved us a bundle. So we replaced the radiator at the Radiator Dr. in San Jose. This new one is 4x thicker than the old stock radiator.

While our tech replaced the engine we also had him do the interior carpet--we picked out from a friend in the wholesaling business, and after all was done we got 6 new tires.

Total cost of engine, radiator work, carpet & tires? $12K. A lot less than just the engine at that shafter in Barstow.

So:
Yr.: 2000
Make: Winnebago
Model: Adventurer 32V, 33.33'
Chassis: Workhorse P32
Drive: 7.1L (if I recall the manual facts), allison 5 spd a/t.
Replacement engine: Jasper

Symptoms: Overheat.
Effect: Engine stall.
Cause: Radiator fluids not changed by dealer prior to delivery, overheat caused valves to stick-losing compression.
Outcome: Replaced engine, replaced radiator.

Current Operation: Engine developed sticky lifter at 1,000 miles of use, being replaced under warranty at this time (Jan., '08).

RV'ing...whether you make money at it or not, it sure is interesting!

* This post was edited 01/29/08 01:03am by kjames90755 *


2008 Itasca Meridian 37H, All. 3000MH (6-auto), Freightliner XC Chass., Cummins 6.7L Turbo, (Sweet! Delivery 03/12/08). Tow: '07 Dodge Gr. Caravan, Me, Him; Sugarbear, Apr. Toy Poodle; Pepe, Blk Toy Poodle; Hero, fat Siam.-mix polydactyl cat/Alarm Clock.



Posted By: ch47pachyderm on 02/05/08 01:48pm

RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Endevor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummings 400hp,
Miles: 18,360
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Failure of front leveling jack seal.
Symptoms: Loss of hyd. oil
Effect: No leveling ability
Cause: Large gouge in jack piston, which damaged seal over time. The 1st owner had a similar failure when the coach was new and fixed under the warranty coverage.
Outcome: Factory is replacing the jack with a new unit as it is still has warranty coverage.
Update:Power Gear sent a "new" jack which was installed. When the QC inspector powered on the levelers the new jack promptly blew a seal. Now I am scheduled to return late in April to have another "new" jack installed. Lazydays has been great in the way they treat me. I just wish Power Gear would produce a fully functional product.

* This post was edited 03/31/08 07:07am by ch47pachyderm *


Posted By: gettinright on 02/05/08 04:17pm

What company made the Jacks?


Posted By: ch47pachyderm on 02/07/08 11:06am

Jacks were made by Power Gear. FYI there was nothing in the jack cylinder that could have damaged the piston. Jack must have been assembled with damage at the factory.
Carl

gettinright wrote "What company made the Jacks?" in reply to msg from ch47pachydrem's msg: Posted: 02/05/08 03:48pm
RV particulars: Holiday Rambler Endevor
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummings 400hp,
Miles: 18,360
Year: 2006
Break Down Description: Failure of front leveling jack seal.
Symptoms: Loss of hyd. oil
Effect: No leveling ability
Cause: Large gouge in jack piston, which damaged seal over time. The 1st owner had a similar failure when the coach was new and fixed under the warranty coverage.
Outcome: Factory is replacing the jack with a new unit as it is still has warranty coverage.


Posted By: 47etep on 02/18/08 08:43pm

Solonoids and relays can be one of the major problems. If it is the main power solonoid nuttin even makes a noisewhen you turn on the key. If you can figure out where it is, hit it with a hammer (a small one) a couple of times. They tend to get corroded inside. Then buy 2 new ones, one for a spare. You can use the same one for several different jobs in a pinch.


Posted By: Bev&Dan on 02/21/08 07:44am

WORKHORSE BRAKE FAILURE On February 7/08 we left Lazy Days in Seffner, FL, drove North about 55 miles to our destination - an RV park in Port Richey, FL. We drive a 2004 Pace Arrow 37C towing a Malibu Maxx with a Brake Buddy. A few miles before our destination we started smelling something (smelled like melting plastic to me), wern't sure if it was something outside or coming from the coach. A couple of miles later ABS light came on and brakes went to the floor. We managed to get into the park by pumping brakes. Diagnosis was left rear caliper locked up, causing master cylinder fluid to boil over onto radiator, abs sensor melted, heat caused damage to hoses, pads,wheel bearings, rotors and differential fluids. All was replaced on both rear.
This coach had only 22,000 miles on a Workhorse 22 chassis. Searches on this and other forums show this to be a serious problem and there is an open investigation by NHTSA. If you have had a similar problem, please report it.


Bev & Dan
Kookie (Awsome Toy Aussie), Frankie (Senior Lilac Siamese)
2004 PACE ARROW 37C Workhorse 22
Blue Ox and Brake Buddy towing a
2005 Malibu Maxx


Posted By: kjames90755 on 03/01/08 03:41am

zmotorsports wrote:

Last February with our new coach we were about 1/2 mile from home just leaving for a weekend shakedown run with the new coach and it died. We coasted to the side of the road and started to troubleshoot. After about an hour and a half of diagnosing and testing I found the wire that goes to the front television lockout was shorted and kept tripping the circuit breaker for the main power soleniod. I unhooked it and off we went. By this time it was pitch black outside and I was frozen, my wife was sitting in the nice warm coach reading a magazine and I asked her if she still wanted to go and she said hell yes we are on vacation(even though I could have thrown a rock and hit our house). So off we went and had an enjoyable weekend. I guess you take the good with the bad. Still wouldn't give up my RV. Mike.


Sounds like my grandmother...we told her we were looking at motorhomes and she said, "You don't want to buy one of those things, they'll nickel and dime you to death."

But when we told her we were buying one (no longer looking) her words turned into, "Will you take me camping with you??"


Posted By: RVPappy on 03/01/08 11:01am

Bev&Dan wrote:

WORKHORSE BRAKE FAILURE On February 7/08 we left Lazy Days in Seffner, FL, drove North about 55 miles to our destination - an RV park in Port Richey, FL. We drive a 2004 Pace Arrow 37C towing a Malibu Maxx with a Brake Buddy. A few miles before our destination we started smelling something (smelled like melting plastic to me), wern't sure if it was something outside or coming from the coach. A couple of miles later ABS light came on and brakes went to the floor. We managed to get into the park by pumping brakes. Diagnosis was left rear caliper locked up, causing master cylinder fluid to boil over onto radiator, abs sensor melted, heat caused damage to hoses, pads,wheel bearings, rotors and differential fluids. All was replaced on both rear.
This coach had only 22,000 miles on a Workhorse 22 chassis. Searches on this and other forums show this to be a serious problem and there is an open investigation by NHTSA. If you have had a similar problem, please report it.


I'm curious... have you ever had the wheel positions weighed (4 corners)? Somewhere I read that with ABS brakes the weight distribution of the chassis must be well balanced for the ABS to function properly. If the coach is overloaded or out of balance on one side or the other, I am wondering if that would affect brake function.

For years the tire manufacturers have been blamed for tire malfunction when the culprit was/could have been an overweight axle at a wheel position.

DennyM


Posted By: SEEKER II on 03/03/08 03:49pm

454 chevyengine--Backfired and quit while traveling at 60mph on us90 traveling thru South Carolina.Would not restart.Assumed out of gas(because of offset in tank and gauge readings).Added gas still no start.

Good old boy mechanic replaced ignition control module and we were on our way.

I never even knew I had one of those thingies.

Matt


Posted By: Phred42044 on 03/08/08 08:13pm

2000 HR Endeavor DP 46000 miles.
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.


Posted By: jtessnm on 03/13/08 10:00am

1995
Newmar Mountain Aire
21000 miles
Cummins c8.3
Spartan chassis
Problem. Shift lite inop, Tail id lites inop. Found worn broken wires in the harness that connects the instrument panel to the front electrical box. When the left headlite assembly was installed the harness was pushed and pinched against the air fitting on the front air manifold. Travel vibration caused the harness to wear through the harness wrapping and two wires causing the problem. The broken wires were spliced, the harness rewrapped and repositioned.


Do not confuse me with facts, my mind is made up.
There is a difference between stupidity and ignorance: ignorance can be cured.


Posted By: newxmar on 03/14/08 10:11am

2003 Winnebago Adventurer on W-22 Workhorse chassis belonging to neighbor:

Tried to start after sitting for two months in an Arizona RV resort.
Nothing!

Found 2 black boxes under the dashboard with "reset fuses" on them. Pushed both reset fuses. Started fine and still starts fine. Had tried many things, don't know what these black boxes are or the reset fuse deal, but for some reason this worked.


Posted By: kjames90755 on 03/15/08 02:07am

Phred42044 wrote:

2000 HR Endeavor DP 46000 miles.
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.


The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...


Posted By: Old Cape Codder on 03/16/08 06:34am

Lil Truckr wrote:

Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.

Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.

All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.

I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.

I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it.

I also had a similar problem, Started my coach to warm it up before a trip. After 3 or 4 min, it shut down no power to any engine or fuse panel. Coach batteries were OK so tried to jump it with no luck. Then I got my volt meter out, Should have done that first but it was in my other truck at home. Anyway found a dead short in + cable to ground. Traced out wire and found underside of coach most wires and hoses run on frame members but on my 95 Vectra the positive wire from the inverter to the batteries j block is run on the bottom of the floor panel with 2 1/4" screws clips that came loose after hitting a bump in the road the previous day . Here is the kicker it was laying on the drive shaft, so while I was moving it would bounce on and of but when I put it up the night before, it welded itself to the drive shaft, DEAD SHORT. So I lost the engine battery but it could have been worst. If I had moved the coach it would have riped the cable out of the inverter. I will have to get a longer cable to run along the frame members the way it should have been done at the factory but for now I installed new clips and more of them


Posted By: RVPappy on 04/06/08 08:55pm

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins 275 hp, Allison 6 speed
Miles: various
Year:1997 Fleetwood discovery
Break Down Description: I had several fuel lines break on my old Discovery over a 4 year period. Finally, in El Paso, tx one night, a young hispanic mechanic, who spoke no english, was able to show me that the engine was missing the brackets/clamps that held the fuel lines on the engine so the engine vibration wouldn't break the lines. There should have been several brackets, and all were missing. Four years of grief, with 28 warranty claims on the engine for broken lines or related issues, like fuel damaged gaskets, oil seals, fuel soaked turbo sensor, etc.
Effect: much disgust...
Cause: poor engine assembly/mechanic error.
Outcome: After four years, problem was solved with the fuel line clamps.


Posted By: barney42 on 06/04/08 06:32am

Coach: 1998 Country Coach Magna w/ DD Series 40 engine
Date: May 2008
Location: US67 near Cleburne Texas
Problem: Engine lost power and began to smoke very badly. Smoke was white. Engine continued to run at idle but had no power. Any increase in RPM generated hugh volumes of smoke.
Resolution: Had coach towed to local diesel engine facility. They diagnosed problem as failed turbo. Replaced turbo, replaced all injectors and changed oil and filter. Problem resolved but at major cost.
Cause: Coach sat for extended time in early 2000,s and turbo was evidently rusted from lack of use. I purchased vehicle in 2005 and had driven it regularly since then for 15K miles. Failure happened at 47K miles.


Posted By: jdewellz on 06/19/08 03:47pm

speaking of breakdowns.......... have had good sam emergency road service for about 5 yrs. 2 flats and one stuck in sand..... great response and service. have become aware of coach-net road service. any opinions about difference in these two co's and their service? thanks.........


Posted By: firecoach on 06/28/08 09:54pm

After being on our trip for several days and riding over some of our country's finest highways we lost the throttle pedal. Engine would go to idle and that was it. Or in our case as when I quickly tapped on the pedal it would resume normal operation or at least we thought. Oh did I mention this was during a down pour with winds gusting to 40 mph. We made it to our camping area but decided to call GS as we continued to have the same problem. If you let off on the pedal you did not know if you would have power or not when you stepped back on it! Roadside mechanic showed up what a waste of hard earned cash 30 min. of trouble shooting and 60 min. of BS. per his suggestions stopped in OK City which we were passing through to have repairs. A day and half later we left with a new computer and headed into another storm with tornado warnings. After 4 days of camping left for Yellowstone and made it north of Denver same problem except now it did it regardless of whether we were under power or not. Not sure if we could make it to a garage which we located about 9 mi. from where we were, so we called GS after waiting 45min for call-back we were told it would be 1-1/2-2hrs for tow truck. Yes we opted to limp along the interstate for 9mi this only took us 45 min. After another day and half camping at a garage a young mechanic found that 2 wires that go to the foot throttle had worn through and were causing a short. Which is what the engine computer was trying to tell them. Over 2500 miles later and no problems. Thanks to Charles at Transwest to troubleshoot the problem the right way.

2003 Newmar Dutch Star with 24000 miles 350 hp ISC Cummins


2003 Newmar 40' Dutchstar, 2008 Jeep Liberty with a Roadmaster all terrain with blue ox base plates using a Air force 1



Posted By: shooer2 on 07/17/08 01:22pm

we've had two breakdowns in the past 10 years. One a rear tire blowout in Maine. A second breakdown last week in South Carolina at the intersection of I-20 and I-95. It was during a terrible thunderstorm driving along and the engine quit running. I had been driving in rain all day. In both cases I used Camping World road service and it was excellent. I had the motorhome pulled to a KOA in Florence South Carolina. They referred me to an onsite mechanic who found my problem to be an air filter that had turned into a sponge. Problem fixed and on to Myrtle Beach.


Posted By: Edouard on 07/17/08 05:16pm

Only 1 breakdown in over 11 years with a Class "A". On a return trip from New Jersey, we were warned by a passing pickup that the left front driver tire was going soft.

Stopped on the side of I-87 in northern NY and checked the situation.

Still had reasonable air left in the tire, and the next rest area was in view, so limped into the rest area. We do have roadside assistance, but decided to see if I could do it myself and possibly save some time.

Dropped a couple of 2x6 planks under both front jack's, and raised it up partially, broke all the lug nuts loose, then lifted the front wheels off the ground, removed and replaced the wheel/tire combination with the spare. It was a 19.5" unit, not certain if I could handle the larger 22.5" tire/wheel combo's today, and most units don't come the the spare anyway.

That's it, in the 11 year's of Class 'A' ownership, not bad, knock on wood....


Eugene & Stella
08 Dolphin DL35C, WH-24, Allison 6 Spd.Tranny.(FOR SALE)
2013 Kia Soul 4U.Automatic, Rental Tow Dolly for now.
FMCA 318247


Posted By: ssands on 07/25/08 03:06pm

Onan Generator problems:
6.5 NHE-FA/26100 P
S/N; G980768473
Emerald Plus 6500

RV particulars: 1999 Winnebago 37G
Driveline: Ford V10
Miles: 61000

Break Down Description: This generator will run for about 10 minutes or so and then the RPM will start to fluctuate and the unit shuts down.

Symptoms: It use to seem to only happen while driving so I disconnected the remote control function just to be sure. No change. Recently as I just drove from the campsite to the dump station and while I was occupied with my "duties" it went unstable and shut down. Generally it will not immediately restart. You have to wait 10 to 15 minutes and then it might restart. My DW tried to restart it after about 5 minutes only to have it start but it never stabilized and just shut down.

Parts changed: Control board, voltage regulator, ignition coil, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil and oil filter.

Cause: Fuel pump.

Outcome: Well I gave up and took it to a shop. $250 and a new fuel pump later we're fixed. Apparently the fuel pump would heat up and quit. Once it quit, the mechanic removed it and hooked it up to a battery. It was DOA. Ran it all the way home including a few stops along the way, about 1.5 hours, and it didn't miss a lick.


BTW... I want to say how well we were treated at the shop. ATI Machine in Lancaster, Ohio.

* This post was edited 07/25/08 03:17pm by ssands *


"My reading of history convinces me that most bad government
results from too much government."

"No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms."
--Thomas Jefferson



Steve,Sharyl and Fritz
1999 Winnebago Adventurer 37G
2009 Saturn Vue



Posted By: Badeye on 07/28/08 05:29pm

RV:2005 Sportscoach Elite 401TS
Engine: Cat C7
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Application of exhaust brake and service brake would result in a warning light and a message that said, "Brake Fuse 5.6 volts" "Below Threshold 7.0 volts." Exhaust brake is equipped with Brake Switch controller.

Exhaust brake did not activate and transmission did not down shift. Exhaust brake light on panel did not come on.

Found later that brake lights were not coming on either.

Actions: Called Coach net and they put me in touch with Freightliner Oasis facility in LaCrosse WI, about 80 miles away. Since service brakes were working I could drive there. They were open even though it was Sunday but they could not get me in as it was about 2:30 when I arrived. They got me in 7:00 on Monday morning and finally isolated the problem to a shorted wire going to the Brake Switch module. Took the Brake Switch module out of the circuit till I get home and can find the short and all is well. Four hours trouble shooting time, etc for a total cost of $517.


Posted By: pfunk on 10/28/08 07:19pm

RV:2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
Engine: Cat 3126
Transmission: Allison 6 Speed

Symptoms: Release of all air pressure when releasing park brake
Found park chamber to have broke spring which ripped the diafram and upon removal corroded fitting/line

Actions: tried to cage the brake and the rod was off center with the spring, next day after getting a ride home I found a truck shop that had the chamber I needed (2430 long stroke) taking off the old one took a bit of guts since the brake couldn't be caged and had to release the chamber from the bracket still attached to the slack arm. It didn't move much since the spring was broke (told the wife to dial 91 and keep her finger over the 1) noticed a line was cross threading and upon inspection the threads nerled over when I removed it,, went to Travel America and they had a line for me and a new fitting,, it was getting late and since I wasn't that far from home (and had to work today) I plugged the lines tied em up and took it home. I still have to install the chamber (measure and fit (cut) the pushrod to the other side since I couldn't cage the original),, But I don't have to be in a rush to do so (paying another day)
Total Cost = 121
2430ls from Southwest brake in Hamtramck, mi $63
Airline and Fitting from TA $58 (I think is overpriced, but they were a couple miles away)
Having a brake job like that done with flat tow would probably be 1500 or more


2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor
300 Cat 6spd Ally


Posted By: my49packard on 11/13/08 10:43am

my49packard wrote:

my49packard wrote:

JDelauter wrote:

RV particulars:
Driveline Cummins 275 Allison 6-spd
Miles: 37000
Year:1999 Coachmen Sportscoach
Break Down Description: Driving west on I-10, 150 miles from Houston. Engine overheating. Coolant level fine. Slowed to 60 m.p.h. and stopped dash a/c. Made it to California to a Cummins dealer. Split exhaust manifold. Turbo shot. Hole in turbo exhaust pipe. Engine side of radiator blocked with gunk because Freightliiner does not install the road exhaust tube to prevent oil blow-by after moving the radiator to the rear of the engine. Total cost to me: $4300 out-of-pocket. Story gets better as I am headed home (Florida). Bottom line: $7300 from me, zero from extended warranty or Cummins.
Symptoms: Overheating
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome


I am 59 and my wife a little younger. We are getting ready to go RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV.
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave


My wife and I hope to be going RV ing full time as soon as we sell our home and get us into an RV. We are looking at a 36 foot Rexhall Rose Air for our first RV. We also like Gulfstream but found this Rexhall that we love in Florida.
I am sorry to hear that you had such problems with your RV
We are new to this forum, it's part of our RV life style research before we get in the RV living world. This is a great site about break downs and solutions to read and learn what possibilities are out there for problems.
Thanks for sharing your breakdown expierence with us. I hope your Rig is running tip top now. I would hope that a newer rv would not have as many problems as yours and others do. Thats a mighty big expense out of pocket while your on the road.
Your first paid $4300, but by the end of the trip you spent $7300. What was the other $4000. spent on ? Another break down ?
Dave P in NC
PS: I hated spelling in school so when you see my mispelled words, oh well, I tried to get it right. Ha Ha. Dave

* This post was edited 11/13/08 02:36pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: my49packard on 11/13/08 07:47pm

kjames90755 wrote:

Phred42044 wrote:

2000 HR Endeavor DP 46000 miles.
Cat 300 HP w/ Allison 6 Speed Tranny.
Problem: Driving along and engine was losing power. Would idle and sometimes get up to full power but would ultimately "chug chug" down the road. Finally made it to a rest stop and got some family to come help me. Chugged it to the nearest diesel mechanic who immediately diagnosed the problem as a fuel separator (filter?). Changed separator and the thing ran like a champ. The mechanic said it is good practice to change the fuel separator once a year under normal driving conditions as diesel fuel is mighty nasty stuff. He also mentioned that when taking off the old filter there was visible trash in and around the filter. I got off luck with a $20 filter and $75 in labor.


The fuel separator is actually a filter to separate water from the diesel oil fuel...when they get full, the water has to be released, and the filter changed--most engines mfrs. recommend doing this whenever you have an oil change at a minimum, whether it needs it or not--you don't want water in a diesel engine...

You would think the people who change your oil would automatically change the fuel separator. I am glad I read this post. Thanks for the tip. Dave P.


Posted By: my49packard on 11/13/08 08:03pm

campingshadow wrote:

RV particulars: 2002 Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): W22 w/ Alison 8.1
Miles: 8,000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Key will not turn in ignition, unable to shift gears while parked
Symptoms: Cannot turn key - cannot move vehicle
Effect: Total lock up of steering wheel and ignition
Cause: loose fuse
Outcome: After being towed 200 miles, fuse was reseated and all worked fine after that.

I pulled into a gas station and turned off the engine to fill the tank with gas. When I went to restart the engine, the key would not move. The gearshift lever was locked solid. The steering wheel was locked solid. Was under Warranty by Workhorse so called for repairs. They towed me 200 miles (back from where I had come from) to nearest W repair facility. Spent the night at the repair facility and next morning repairman came out and checked fuses under the hood AND under the dash by left foot. One fuse was loose (in box by foot). Pushed it in and everything worked perfectly. Resumed trip with no problems.
Very expensive fuse....tow bill alone was $1500....paid by Workhorse.

Shadow

Wow what a crazy expense for a loose fuse. Your lucky Workhorse paid the bill. Lesson I learned here is that I should know the different kind of fuses that are used on my rig and carry extra ones. I also learned that you could not turn the ignition key if the fuse was blown. I never knew there was an electricial connection for the ignition key to work. Dave P.


Posted By: my49packard on 11/14/08 08:40am

Dick A wrote:

RV particulars: Rexhall F-53 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Ford 460, E40D transmission
Miles: 32,000
Year: 1994
Break Down Description: (2002) Engine stalled on warm day at St. Charles, MO
Symptoms: engine popping and backfiring, no power.
Effect: Engine hot and stalled - symptom was like vapor lock.

Outcome: Let engine cool. Engine then started and made it to RV park (Sundermier). Stayed a few days, checked all fluids, changed fuel filter on frame rail. Continued trip. Would run ok as long as we were at highway speeds. Would stall sometimes when pulling off to fuel. Managed to get home a week later after a stop in Wyoming. We had the thermostat changed there, but no help. I had ordered a full Banks system before leaving for trip. During subsequent installation, found radiator plastic tank seal broken. Replaced radiator. Also, several exhaust manifold bolts broken, causing excessive heat in the engine area. Probably causing vapor lock problems. Replaced one head with broken manifold flange, had all valves replaced on both heads, water pump, hoses, fan clutch, etc. Changed all fluids to synthetic, added B & M extra capacity transmission pan and transmission temperature gauge. No problems in 2003 traveling over 8500 miles. Preventative maintenance before 2004 trip: Replace in-tank fuel pump known for early failure.

Problems with your 2002 Rexhall? I would think that it being not that old that your manifold bolts should not have been broken, unless someone tightened them down too tight at some point in time.
Also your fuel pump being replaced as a preventive maintanince action is a good thought. Would that have been a factroy recall thing that they would cover the cost ?
We are getting ready to buy a 2003 Rexhall Rose Air. Is the fuel pump on the 2003 model something that I should ask the present owners about ? Was that a big expense to replace ? Good luck with your RV. Sounds like you've taken all the precautions to prevent any future breakdowns. Thank you for your story. It is one that we will not forget because of our soon to be Rexhall owners. Dave Packard


Posted By: my49packard on 11/16/08 01:22pm

SNUFFYSMITH wrote:

RV Particulars:
DSDP 38'
Driveline 3124 CAT
300 HP Alison 3060
Mileage: 63000

Breakdown description: Pulling into a rest stop, shut engine off. About 40 minutes later, while pulling out of rest stop, pouring the coals to the MH to get out into traffice,lost all power, big back fire. Check engine light came on and a couple more lights came on for an instant. Then power came back, but it was scary out there. If I take off slow, it's okay, but dangerous.

Outcome: Primary fuel filter fuel line that goes to engine has very soft rubber - it goes over the engine computer on its way to the engine. Power cables coming from battery compartment go over the fuel line and smashes it almost flat. Solution: Rerouted fuel line - so far, so good.

al

So where was the back fire noise coming from ? Dave P


Posted By: mdbass on 11/22/08 06:26pm

How do I make this short? We own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with a B series Cummins. While having a PM performed the shop found a fuel leak emanating from the front half of the vehicle. A local shop said the fuel tank had to be dropped and couldn't handle it. We ended up traveling 50 plus miles to a diesel repair facility located off of the interstate. As it turns out, $700 later the tank was dropped and the fuel lines to the generator; which were dry rotting, were replaced. Here's the rub and somehow it's all connected. While jostling the tank, apparently all kinds of gunk was loosened in the process. Also, there was a loss of fuel pressure somewhere down the line. Things then failed in progression over a 4-6 week period. We lost the fuel solenoid shutoff valve and then the lift pump. Along the way we replaced three fuel filters, including the lift pump filter which failed on the trip to check everything out. The moral of the story is to regularly treat your tank with a good quality biocide and fuel treatment and to have pm's performed regularly. As older coaches become more affordable, more people are going to have these problems. If you buy one have a mechanic thoroughly inspect the coach; you'll be money ahead.


Mark Bass


Posted By: admiral0647 on 12/08/08 02:08pm

In late July, on returning from a 1,200 mile trip, I noticed my F53 rear axle seal leaking, badly. Oil coating all over RR Duals and rear of camper. The unit was purchased new last fall and has 5,500 miles on it. We live in east central Illinois. I called Ford Assistance for guidance since our local car dealer did not want to look at it. (38ft long, 12ft high). I finally got through to Ford RV Warranty Service, (800) 444-3311, and they suggested other Ford dealers within 30 miles. I called each of them and no luck. Ford then said If I paid an independent repair shop up front, I could submit the bill to Ford. The independent needed to use authorized Ford parts and procedures. Ford said a 2 hour job.

August 5th the MH went in to a big truck independent (with a good local reputation). I had discussed it with the owner, and he had inspected the unit. They had spoken to Ford and ordered the parts (seal and brake pads). I kept the parts that were replaced and I submitted the bill to FORD. I even took a couple photos.

Update:
I had the independent shop do the repair to the leaking axle seal in August, and I sent the claim for reimbursement to Ford as directed.

Today, December 8, 2008, I received a check for the full amount of the rear axle repair from FORD Motor Co.

I am very happy with the results on this warranty repair claim on my motor home.

Ford RV Assistance is (800) 444-3311


I started with nothing... and have most of it left.

Damon Challenger 377c
Toyota Yaris Dingy
Scottish Terrier



Posted By: rdcoop059 on 01/16/09 10:50am

Rock guard;

We have a 2008 Fleet wood Providence 40E. The dealer install a rock guard on the coach. We drove it home and discover the rock guard had bent and damage the underside of our coach. This is a fleet wood design rock guard for the providence. We were told the reason it was not install because this rock guard would damage the coach . It is a standard manufacture item. Have anyone had a problem with rock guard damage on a fleet wood motor homes.


Posted By: E_d on 01/26/09 09:48pm

being an owner of a '97 ford class A and having the stall problem several years ago, Heck of a vacation. You can probably search for the fuel pump problem and see myself and several others who have experienced this issue. Anyway, It was the fuel pump, in the fuel tank. It cost around $850.00 about 3-4 years ago. They can do a fuel pressue test at the dealer and let you know if it's the fuel pump. It makes things easier if your tank is empty or as close as possible when they work on it. Get it fixed now, don't wait until your on a trip and you have all kinds of problems and pay more to have it fixed.


Posted By: pianodan on 02/13/09 07:52am

A year ago, February: Got the m/h out for a trip south and west to Wadena (about 2 hrs), while it was warming up in the driveway, my wife attempted to back it up-no reverse gear!! I did all the troubleshooting, called Allison, confirmation that the reverse gear was toast (96k mi. on m/h). I called and web searched for an affordable replacement, Mills Big Truck/Ford in Brainerd, MN was able to get me a factory rebuilt w/12 month warranty for $1500.00 plus tax and shipping. I spent a good part of May (and around $1800.00)in the r/r of the unit.I also did a complete brake job and replaced a few tires at this time, so my final bill ran about $2900.00 on completion.
For everybody that has an Allison 542, be aware that if you hear a funny noise in reverse, you'll lose the reverse gear (mine took about 6k mi. after the noise before it was gone). Allison no longer makes or rebuilds the 542 series due to this problem, the 545 which I now have is the direct bolt in replacement, it was an option when the 542 was installed, but most m/h manufacturers as well as school bus and trash truck mfg all went the cheap route with the 542. The reverse gears are smaller on the 542 (less meat on the teeth etc.),so with the heavy loads required to move, eventually all the teeth strip, and you have no reverse.


'91 FRED 35' Oshkosh Journey ('89 chassis)
'93 6BT5.9L Cummins 230 HP TC wastegated/intercooled,Allison 545 4 speed
'74 Jeep CJ6
'80 Suzuki GS850L
FMCA F326065
Pine River, MN
BT1(SW)USNret '95




Posted By: Hbuie on 04/28/09 02:05pm

Sorry to be posting to this thread, but....
!996 - Bounder; 34'.
Chevy P30 chassis with 454 engine and 44k miles.

Driving North on I75 just past I275, and I, thankfully, had cleared the construction zone, and it just died! No electric, no nothin'. I coasted to the side of the road. Called for a tow. After about an hour and a half, I heard a clicking. It was the emergency flashers. I then turned the ignition key and it started right up. Cancelled the tow and continued on home. Taking it back to the dealer for a checkup in a week and a half (earliest appointment I could get). Don't know cause, but using the emergency power button didn't help. Weather was light rain and I had headlights and wipers on. We'll see what it was, I hope...


Posted By: Mainship on 05/26/09 01:15pm

6 years and 64 PAGES of problems and still no summary.

After reading all 454 gas breakdowns, it seems to be a common occurance to be sensors telling computer to shutdown engine for preservation. My question is which sensors can be bypassed to keep engine running until it is convenient to repair.
1999 Chevy 454, still trying to workout 2 engine shutdowns, NO error codes in the computer, first time after two hours at 55mph, no power coasted to side of road. It restarted after checking all fluids, second time again after two hours of driving but at a traffic light on proceeding into intersection, power was limited, it was running enough to make it though intersection, pulling to side of road, turned of key and restarted, drove last mile to home and parked.


Posted By: efenclau2077 on 05/27/09 07:19pm

May 14th 2009 Fredricksburg MD , 2000 Damon Challenger Workhorse P32 chassis, 7500 miles, after going through heavy traffic brake pedal went to floor when pushed. Pumping brake pedal gave limited brake action. The pedal felt as though there was a leak in the hydraulic line. Examination by mechanic showed that calipers did not release completely and overheated. Calipers, rotors, hoses, and pads replaced.


2000 Damon Challenger P32 Chassis 32 ft no slides


Posted By: DocScottWesterlyRI on 05/29/09 09:18pm

1985 Heriitage 2000 P30 workhorse chasis with chevy 454 engine; Headed out on a trip and 26 miles later it looses power and sputters and bucks and stops running. It would turn over and over but not start. Gas pumps are ok. Got towed home. The next day it started right up, drove it up our long driveway and it died halfway...No more start! I previously replaced the inline electric fuel pump, drained the gas tank, replaced the fuel lines, cleaned out the tank.
However unlikely, the final diagnosis after about 3 years of this intermittant problem was; The coil, located in the distributor was intermitant. Replaced it and it's been Happy Motorcoaching since then.


Posted By: DaveRsi on 06/10/09 12:48am

02' P32 8.1L: being the 3rd vehicle off a ferry, RV just shut down at traffic light as I was coming to a stop. Fellow ferry people not Happy. six cop cars later, we tried to push 18,000 with no luck. Jacked all 4 off the ground all tires spun. Tried a to give it a pull, no dice!!!
Had to drop drive shaft, get wrecker.
Turns out when I used the brake at the light, the GREEN socket
on the steering column melted. Bad timing. Apparently this is a common problem with p-w chassis. There are service notes. Any workhorse dealer can add the relay system that prevents the ignition socket from overheating. Seems to be the heaviest red wire, which engages a seleniod for batteries. When it fries, the trans will lock-up?


Posted By: sundancer268 on 06/23/09 07:55pm

1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser, Spartan EC2242 Chassie, Cummins B5.9 Engine, Allison 3060 Transmission.

US-2 Between Ashland Wi. and Iron Wood Mi.

Smelled funny oder and the low coolant light came on. Looked back into the bed room and saw fog. Pulled over and stopped MH and Engine. Lifted the Rear Engine cover and found the serpentine belt had broken and allowed the Anti-freeze to boil out. Was on a fringe area for our cell phones and took several hours to arrange tow back to Ashland Next evening $1018.00 lighter for new belt and belt tensioner we were on our way. Most expensive belt change I ever had done.

I am changing the Anti-Freeze and all the radiator hoses this weekend to prevent any problems from that side of the cooling system. Will also change the defective temperature sender unit for the idiot light and gauge that did not work when I needed them.


U. S. Navy (RETIRED) 1993
1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 34' Diesel Pusher Cummins B5.9 12 Valve Engine, Allison MD-3060 6 Speed Transmission.
TOAD: 2005 Ford Focus Automatic Station Wagon
Road Master Sterling All-Terrain


Posted By: jtovosr on 07/07/09 09:41am

I recentley posted this incedent on FMCA but it is well worth repeating.
Returning from Charlotte I was just north of Birminham on I-65 after hitting some terribly rough road the exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo broke off, this was because the hanger clamps rusted thru, I was lucky to be near a rest area so I pulled in & tied up the muffler & started back on I-65 looking for a repair shop. I didn't go 5-miles when I lost all the air & the suspension dropped.
I found several air lines & electrical wires all in a loom running across the frame about 5 feet from the turbo burnt thru. I un-hooked my car & was able to find a parts store for air lines & fittings, I was able to repair enough of them to get to the next exit & into a Cracker Barrell (by the way the management here where great!)once I was able to get the lines repaired I was able to find a repair place to replace the exhaust.
When I got home I purchased several yards of fire proof insulation & steel band clamps & wrapped the looms running across the rear beams & cut 1" wide stripes & wrapped all the main air lines that are near the exhaust.
I never thought about how hot the exhaust would be & I am actually luckey it didn't catch fire.
You can buy the insulation & clamps at Pegasusautoracing.com this preventive maintenance could save somebody a real serious problem.
My coach is a Monaco Windser with a 400 Cummins


Posted By: howdy35 on 07/10/09 10:49am

Two things. 1st Loss of power going up hill and died eventully at the top. 11:00 pm Called affinity road service and local mechanic came and replaced outside fuel filter. Limped into Abilene and went to local Cat dealer. "Let me look at the coach", he said. Raised the bed and asked if that fuel filter had been replaced. Sold me a new one and I put it on. Problem solved. 2nd. Engine heating up on hills. Buddy of mine noticed the oil exhaust line (WHAT DO YOU CALL IT) was located right in front of the rear radiator and oil and dust had clogged the bottom third of the radiator. Re-routed the line out the back and washed the radiator out at the local car wash with water and engine degreaser bought at Walmart. Rear radiator Cat people check for this problem. Easy fix can save you a headache


1999 National Tradewinds
2001 Honda Odyssey--Toad
Fulltime Wanabee


Posted By: gettinright on 07/10/09 11:47am

Reference to breakdown and repair in Albeq. NM. I had a problem there with a 330HP Cat. Wagner CAT fixed it finally after it had been repaired twice by Freightliner. If you have a CAT they are a really good shop.

I sold the Cat and now have a 400 Cummins. No problems with it.


Posted By: Boblou on 07/17/09 09:47am

I had not heard of this one before. A friend was traveling in a mountainous area and when he got into town his brakes gave way. Pedal went to the floor. RV specialist drained the brake fluid and put new fluid in system and everthing worked fine. RV spccialist said when the brakes got hot from riding them down hill, your4 brake fluid boils away. Have since reseach and called local RV repairs and they said this was true. So in order to prevent and occurance on my RV i took a turkery baster, sucked out a lot of brake fluid and put new in. I hope i took out any brake fluid contaminated with water vapor.


Posted By: kiloo9 on 07/19/09 10:28pm

If your battery positive post has the additional fuse link connection that feeds power to the main fuse panel, it could come lose with vibration and you would loose all power just like if you did not have a battery, it would make connection again and everything would work again until it happens again. this loose connection would create heat which in turn corrosion eventually losing the connection. Ensure all battery connections are thigh and secure. You could apply a tide wrap on the positive cable and the fuse link wire thus preventing vibration. All this happen to me on a trip out of Houston TX. Hope it helps.


"Freedom is not Free"
Ask a Veteran




Posted By: Planocat on 07/21/09 02:45am

Just picked up motorhome from local generator repair place. Another generator breakdown. Ever tried to find service for a generator while on the road? Good luck!

This year while on vacation, after day 1 the Generac Generator (3 years ago it was the generator fuel pump that went out) would run but wasn't putting out any electricity to the coach. Turns out the drive belt from the generator motor to whatever it is that makes the electricity had broken. The kind of repair you hate as the belt was $23.80 but the generator had to be removed to change it. 6 hours labor total so the bill was over $500 to replace a $23 belt! Ouch.

Also on day 2, the water pump quits working. Switches won't activate the pump. RV repair place in Minnesota manages to spend 5 hours discovering he couldn't figure out what was wrong. Runs jury rigged wiring under the bed to the pump and installs a switch on the bed frame. In spite of the exposed wires, at least we now have water.

Last year it was a chasis problem - '97 460 Ford just quit running while going down the interstate. Towed to Iowa small town repair facility who diagnosed the problem as a fuel pump. Had what I thought was plenty of fuel pressure, but not according to the mechanic. Being Saturday, no pump to be had. Sat in parking lot of repair facility until pump arrived on Monday. Didn't send adaptor needed for fuel pump retrofit. So, that arrives on Tuesday. Puts everything back together and unit still won't run - just cranks and cranks. Then figures out it is a bad coil. Replaced the coil and it starts right up. Most likely the problem all along.

Mechanic managed to turn what should have been a 2 hour / $200 repair into 4 vacation days and $1,000 plus! Oh yes, and all the cranking of the motor with a bad coil filled the cylinders with gas that drained into the crankcase thinning out the oil and triggering a check engine light when we did finally get on the way. Returned for diagnosis and he said I needed the oil and filter changed which he did for $65 (the Ford dealer had just done it for $29)!

Some vacation. Ah, the joys of motorhoming and being at someone's mercy when you break down on the road a thousand miles from home. Wife informed me today she has taken her last vacation in this motorhome. She says: "Sell it if you want to celebrate a 42nd anniversary with me and next year we are renting a cabin!"

4 major breakdowns on the last 6 vacations has put her at the end of her rope. Told her I'd put it up for sale as soon as I had the electric steps and hydraulic jacks that also quit working this trip repaired - though it may take a while before I can accumulate the money to have it done! You'd never know I am a "preventative maintenance" kind of guy would you?

Planocat

* This post was last edited 07/21/09 03:37am by Planocat *


Posted By: Puddin12 on 07/24/09 04:12pm

I'm so sorry to hear of all your problems. We have a 1992 Winnebago Class C, and had to put a new transmission in four years ago (but I know I did a number on it pulling my horses through the mountains, so don't count that). We had to put a fuel pump in the generator, a cooling coil in the refrigerator about 8 years ago, and have had the furnace worked on twice, and it still doesn't work, but other than these things, it has been a great RV. Considering its age, I think we have been lucky. We, too, do preventive maintenance. Good luck.


Posted By: 2ND HME on 07/25/09 02:48pm

This is the scariest (and most helpful) thread on any RV website I visit!

I've always felt it very important to be self-sufficient on the road to be able to fix any problem I might encounter. I've studied every manual that came with the coach, nearly memorized the electrical schematic, and I stuff one of my basements with every tool, connector, wire, lamp, plug, glue, grease, and "magic helper" I can find. Usually two of everything. I carry oil, filters, specialty wrenches, and unusual items that I've read about. Still we pay GS ERS each and every year as a backup.

We love our coach and the adventures and, fortunately, we've been relatively void of serious problems. Last year was the worst.

On a trip to Bloomington, IN we were on the outerbelt south of Indy. It was a bright, sunny day. As a car passed on my left I noticed she had her wipers on. After making a snide comment about the stupid driver I noticed the next car to pass had his wipers on as well. I immediately knew something was up and scanned my gauges. My temp was starting to climb and, at about that same instant I noticed the steering was getting really stiff. I was two lanes from the berm but managed to drift off without incident. It was a hot day and I spotted an overpass up ahead so, in my wisdom, I allowed the coach to coast under bridge to keep us out of the sun (mistake number one). My wife had that "What's going on?" look and didn't know if I was stopping to pee or if there was a problem. I said "We have a problem. I'll be right back" and headed for the door. When I got back to the truck in flat-tow I saw that it was covered in oily goo. I went around to the road side - about 2 feet from the white line with traffic wizzing past at full speed - and laid down to look under the coach. Red fluid all over the road and the underside. Hydaulic. Ouch. Can't do this myself.

Broke the news to my wife and we called GS ERS (GREAT service!). They said it would be about 60 minutes before the repair truck would arrive. In that time I unhooked the toad, cleaned off a spot on the windshield, and stuck my wife and kids in to get them off the busy highway. They headed to Bloomington to meet our appointment there. Once they were gone and safe I pulled out the manuals to re-read how to tow such a beast, just in case some grease-monkey showed up who'd never towed before.

The big diesel tow came right on time and as soon as he greeted me I promptly launched into a speech about what the owners manual said to do to tow (mistake number two). He eyed me as I spoke and when I was done he said "I do this for a living. I'll tell you what, if there's a problem when I'm done THEN you can tell me how to do my job." Ouch, and boy did I deserve that. I apologized as best I could and he did his masterful job. Firstly, once he got the hook under the front axle, he pulled me forward out from under the bridge so he could climb under the coach without being run over (another lesson for me!). He had to drop the driveshaft but in about 1/2 hour I was sitting in his cab with our dog in my lap as we chugged down the highway. To my complete surprise he took the first exit about a mile away, made two quick turns and dropped us into the able hands of PFM Truck Care Center.

PFM was great! Wonderful people who assured me that they'd get me back on the road in just a few hours. I called my wife who was already at Bloomington but she decided to drive back up to Indy to meet me in case I was stuck for the night.

The primary hydraulic hose that controls power steering and the radiator cooling fans had blown and they had to make a new one, which was the easy part. Getting the old fittings to break loose was much tougher and took the better part of two hours. The repair guy was able, quick, very nice and enjoyed talking about what he was doing (while I reminded myself about my lecture to the tow truck driver!). When he saw my interest he made a point of saying I should NEVER try a hydraulic repair myself because the pressures are so high. About $1000 and 5 hours later we were on our way and made the campground south of Bloomington just before dark.

I've learned how to fix most things on the coach, from the cruise, to the steps, to the fridge and hot water tank, fuel, oil, filters, electrical, etc. But what I learned most on that trip was to be a better judge of what I say, and to know when I'm in over my head.


'95 Country Coach Intrigue
'02 Dodge Dakota
Falcon Towbar and Unified Brake
Wife, two kids, and a dog


Posted By: 2ND HME on 07/25/09 02:53pm

Oh, and I forgot to say that the tow bill for the roughly two miles we went was $500 (!) all paid by GS ERS! My cost of the $1000 total repair was $470.

Love GS ERS!!


Posted By: Puddin12 on 07/28/09 08:09am

Is that Good Sam Emergecy Road Service? How was you rcost of the $1000 only $470?


Posted By: 2ND HME on 07/28/09 02:33pm

Yes, it's Good Sam ERS. The total cost, including the tow, was $1079 but the repair was only (!)$470. The rest was the tow, which Good Sam paid.


Posted By: 2ND HME on 07/28/09 02:43pm

RV particulars: Country Coach 40' Intrigue
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Gillig, Cummins 300, Allison 6
Miles:39000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: Engine running, guages fine, no power
Symptoms: very little response from gas pedal; RPM response normal
Effect: Slowed to crawl up hill, no power response, confusion
Cause: snapped threads on air inlet line to turbo
Outcome:$1.49 part replaced at Cummins, Columbia, SC. All fine now!


Posted By: Mainship on 07/29/09 09:32pm

Boblou wrote:

I had not heard of this one before. A friend was traveling in a mountainous area and when he got into town his brakes gave way. Pedal went to the floor. RV specialist drained the brake fluid and put new fluid in system and everthing worked fine. RV spccialist said when the brakes got hot from riding them down hill, your4 brake fluid boils away. Have since reseach and called local RV repairs and they said this was true. So in order to prevent and occurance on my RV i took a turkery baster, sucked out a lot of brake fluid and put new in. I hope i took out any brake fluid contaminated with water vapor.


This month I drove MH from FL to Ohio. After all the hills and mountains on return trip, MH brakes failed when No hills or mountains flat land for 20 miles and normal city driving just before getting to CG. after entering CG in Kentucky stopped normal at gatehouse, started to go to site and at first speed bump tried to apply brakes and it went to floor. slowly manuvered to site and checked all wheels temps, found rear drivers side was 300 degrees while rest were about 150. Bled cylinder, when mechanic showed up from GS's he bled passenger side and helped jack drivers wheel up to check rotation and stopping, gave it his ok to drive. Checked it in cg, cautiously drove and braked all was normal.
Used about pt of brake fluid, fluid I removed from system was black looking actually dark green on pouring.
Side note, most parts on chevy chassis are american, brake bleed valve needed 10mm metric.


Posted By: gbsw378 on 07/31/09 02:41pm

One handy trick that worked for us was when we stopped at a fair on our trip. When we returned, the engine (rear diesel, class A) wouldn't start. In fact, we got nothing, not even a click or a moan. BCAA couldn't find us so we were on our own. A older guy (older than me...) came by, took his hammer and banged our starter. Bingo, we were up and running again. Apparently this was fairly common in the "old" days, esp for farmers. He said a rock or anything heavy will do. Haven't had any problems with it since but he suggested it would need to be replaced at some point.

Gary


Posted By: namvet on 07/31/09 07:11pm

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline: Workhorse 8.1L, Alison Transmission
Miles:36500
Year:2001
Break Down Description: While driving along highway the "Auto Park" light began blinking on and off. I could hear the hydraulic pump cycling as though it was trying to release the parking brake. The default position for the brake is "applied", which could have resulted in a 'catastrophic' event.
Symptoms:"Auto Park" light blinking; hydraulic pump cycling
Effect: Loss of hydraulic fluid from auto park brake reservoir
Cause: End of hydraulic ram had loosened allowing fluid to spray out when pressure was applied to release the brake
Outcome: Removed access cover, tightened end of ram as tight as possible, and refilled reservoir. Suggestion : Keep a regular check on reservoir fluid level


2001 Itasca Suncruiser
2 Cor 1:8
"We Were Soldiers Once....and Young"


Posted By: jermaregoolsby on 08/01/09 08:19pm

need advice on fogged windows on 98 bounder 36s how to get to top screws
thanks


Posted By: edalegsd on 08/02/09 07:26am

Int' will not start
1994 GulfStream Sun Voyager
Cummins 5.9
Allison 6 sp

Turns out that the "NEUTRAL SWITCH" in the Tranny was starting to fail.
Symptoms = turn the key and the engine would not turn over.

Quick Fix? - by pass the neutral switch on the tranny ;-)


1994 Gulf Stream Money Pit ( Sun Voyager )
B 5.9 Cummins 6 sp Allison Tr
Stuart & Sharon & way too many German Shepherds ;-)
Tofield, Alberta Canada
www.edalegsd.com



Posted By: Livin Good on 08/02/09 05:54pm

jermaregoolsby wrote:

need advice on fogged windows on 98 bounder 36s how to get to top screws
thanks


Wrong thread...re-read the rules.


Posted By: Danielwin92 on 08/03/09 08:17pm

i have the same problem with a winnebago 1992..

how do you make the repair..

Daniel







namvet wrote:

RV particulars: Itasca Suncruiser
Driveline: Workhorse 8.1L, Alison Transmission
Miles:36500
Year:2001
Break Down Description: While driving along highway the "Auto Park" light began blinking on and off. I could hear the hydraulic pump cycling as though it was trying to release the parking brake. The default position for the brake is "applied", which could have resulted in a 'catastrophic' event.
Symptoms:"Auto Park" light blinking; hydraulic pump cycling
Effect: Loss of hydraulic fluid from auto park brake reservoir
Cause: End of hydraulic ram had loosened allowing fluid to spray out when pressure was applied to release the brake
Outcome: Removed access cover, tightened end of ram as tight as possible, and refilled reservoir. Suggestion : Keep a regular check on reservoir fluid level



Posted By: hhornig on 08/12/09 12:34pm

I can't believe that I read the whole thing. Sixty seven page, over approximately 6 years. Still no summary, but I can see how difficult it would be. It would help to break it into gas and diesel for one thing.

My stories and I am sad to say they are plural go back to when I first bought the coach on consignment from a dealer. Unfortunately the low mileage was due to the coach sitting a lot while the owner was on various assignments around the country. It helps to drive these babies as they are made for that. Most of my problems have appeared here before so I won't go into great detail, suffice it to say that it was very traumatic at the time. I have met several small shop diesel mechanics who are really a great breed. The following is my expierience since 2004 when we bought the coach:

RV particulars: Monaco Dynasty, Roadmaster Chasis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission)ummins 8.3 325 HP, Allison 6 Speed
Miles:30,000
Year:1997
Break Down Description: First trip after purchasing it used. Pulling a flatbed trailer with SUV on it. Stopped for fuel and engine wouldn’t turn off. Finally found a fuse to pull which shut off the engine.
Symptoms: Engine won’t turn off.
Effect:
Cause: The RV dealer installed a trailer wiring kit which did not have a solenoid disconnect and the trailer break away battery fed back into the coach.
Outcome: Disconnected the trailer plug every time I stopped during the rest of the trip. Never did fix it since I switch to towing 4 wheels down shortly afterwards.

This particular problem has been experienced by another forum member who I was able to help via the internet while he was on the road experiencing the problem.


Miles:35,000

Break Down Description: After camping in the rain for a few days the engine would not start.
Effect: Fuel solenoid would not open shut off valve.
Cause: Corrosion on wire connector.
Outcome: I hot wired the valve with a fuse and switch to get home.
Seems like every owner should know the ins and outs of their particular fuel shut off valve since this appears to be a frequent problem.


Miles:35,000

Break Down Description: Alternator was not charging.
Cause: Broken wire.
Outcome: Ran on battery until it dropped to 11 volts then stopped and charged battery off of generator.


Miles:37,000

Break Down Description: Fuel fogging the toad.
Cause: Loose injector
Outcome: Found a truck shop and mechanic tightened the injector-$20. Cost $30 to clean toad and engine.
I am going to check fuel lines and injectors more frequently since this appears to be a common problem.


Miles:40,000

Break Down Description: Lost power due to low turbo boost
Cause: PacBrake cylinder pivot mount broke and causing butterfly to block exhaust flow to turbo.
Outcome: Because mechanics thought the turbo had blown they suggested the mh be towed to a truck shop. Mechanic checked out turbo and then found the problem with the PacBrake. He wired it open. Cost tow $680 covered by insurance, mechanic diagnosed problem with temporary fix and re-install drive shaft $65. I fixed the PacBrake for the cost of a new cylinder $78.


Miles:42,000

Break Down Description: Engine high temperature light and alarm went on while gage indicated normal engine temperature.
Cause: Suspect faulty sensor.
Outcome: Cooled the engine to ambient and restarted. Alarm was still on while gage indicated a cold engine. Disconnected the sensor and carefully monitored engine temperature gage. Have not fixed it yet.


Posted By: PittsburghDave on 08/25/09 10:29am

I was crossing Rt80 in Pennsylvania at the end of June with cruise control set for 60MPH and was just at the top of a slight rise when the speedometer went from 60 to 0 a couple of times then the cruise control turned off, the digital mileage display turned off, the tow/haul light came on and the transmission dropped into third gear. I continued a short distance to a truck plaza and when I pulled off of the exit the transmission stayed in third gear. I shut the engine off and started it again and when I put it in gear it was still in third gear. Reverse worked ok but only third in forward positions. Called Ford Service and they arranged storage locally until today when we attempted to tow it to a local Ford Garage. When the tow truck arrived I had to move the rig to hook up and found that everything worked ok. Ford said it was the speed sensor on the output shaft on the transmission but could not get it to reoccur and sent me on my way with instructions to call if it happened again.

Well it did happen again this time 1200 miles laer as I exited the Kanas turnpike on Rte 35. Ford sent me to Enid OK. (Stephens Ford) and they replaced the speed sensor on Friday, the altanator on Monday, ignition coils (two at a time) on Tuesday and then determined it was the Powertrain Command Module. They had to order that from Pennsylvania. They replaced the Powertrain Control Module after it arrived by UPS at three in the afternoon on Thursday and I went with them for the 50 mile road test. The situation did not occur so I packed up and headed north. Two days and 1200 miles later I made it home with no problems. They said Ford felt it was a bad PCM that kept reading a bad speed sensor when the sensor was ok. It sure kept me on edge all the way home waiting for it to happen again. Sure was glad to get out of Enid Oklahoma after spending a week there. I will be going after Ford for some compensation for hotel rooms as it happened under bumper to bumper warranty to first time making it a recurring incident. Stevens Ford in Enid were great to deal with and went out of their way to look after us while we were there. Great to be home.


Dave and Judy
2006 Fleetwood Bounder(32W)w/(Scan Gauge)
Pressure Pro TPM)(Clean Dump Macerator)
2003 Tracker ZR2 w/Blue Ox Aventa II Tow Bar,
Base Plates and SMI 4 wire Stay and Play Brake System



Posted By: diceman4848 on 08/25/09 11:01am

We all need a good extended maintenance program for break down's and I though I had one in Good Sam. I had a air compressor go out along at the same time no flow in the air dash. So I was submitting 2 claims.
Good Sam denied both claims. They said because a seal went bad which caused the compressor to leak and seals and gaskets are not covered they will not pay for the new compressor. As I explained to them that this wasn't caused by a seal and according to the invoice it was a leak and there was a bad O-Ring which caused the break down they will not pay for this part of the claim. Almost 1200.00 dollars. After going back and forth with them they send me a check for 531.00 saying they where giving me a good jester payment. My point to them was ok if you are giving me a good jester payment which is saying I'm guilty and here is some I'm guilty money, why not paid for the whole thing.
No such luck. Next part of the claim is they won't pay for the flume because of an alignment problem and alignment in not covered in the policy. Now here is a part that worked for 7 years and broke never to work again and they called it and alignment problem which didn't even read that in the invoice. 1700.00 down the toilet.

Keep in mind that your RV is pretty much made up of seals and gasket's and including the engine so if you have a Good Sam Extended Maintenance Policy you may want to re think it.
I did find another company who will cover seals and gaskets and read all the fine print and hope they will up hold the policy on my next break down and I'm sure I will have another break down along the way.

I'm not saying all of Good Sam is bad as I had good luck with there road service in the passed but now my life time membership doesn't even feel like a friendship.

Thanks for listining and happy motoring


Posted By: BudParrish on 08/27/09 02:02pm

My 2 cents from August 8, 2009:

RV particulars: Monaco Diplomat SFT, Roadmaster Chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Cummins 8.9 400 HP, Allison 6 Speed World Trans
Miles: 9,000
Year: 2008
Break Down Description: Houston TX to Marietta GA. 2nd day, on I-285 West approx 1/2 mile prior to Exit 18, thought I hit something even though road was clear and traffic light. Immediately "ALTERNATOR FAILURE" light came on. Presumed the fan belt broke.
Symptoms: Alternator Failure light blinking, alarm sounding. Engine Overheat Light and alarm shortly thereafter, "LOW BATTERY" light and alarm.
Effect: Engine overheating.
Cause: The fan belt pulley bearings failed, causing/allowing the fan and pulley to tilt forward and down. The fan (plastic) hit the crankcase pulley and shattered all 8 blades almost to the base. Shards of the fan cut the fan belt. More shards were thrown through and into the radiator. Some of the fan pieces even penetrated the heat shield and there were deep dents/cuts into the floor base in the master bedroom area.
Outcome: Towed to Cummins Power South. This is a Motorhome specific Cummins Service Center. They were terrific, fixed everything in a timely fashion. Bill Thomas, Cummins Service Advisor, arranged the tow after offering three different tow companies. The repairs were covered under Cummins warranty. The tow covered under Good Sam ERS. Fan and radiator had to be ordered from Monaco (YIKES!!!). We were back on the road in 6 business days, most of the delay due to getting parts from Monaco.

Bud


Posted By: jerrit1 on 09/01/09 01:15pm

RV particulars: Fleetwood Southwind
Driveline (Engine, Transmission) Chevy 454 4bbl gas, 3spd auto
Miles: 75,000
Year: 1983
Break Down Description: Engine would not start after shutting it off.
Symptoms: Engine would turn over but not start.
Cause: After determining there was no fuel getting to the carb I replaced the mechanical fuel pump...still didn't work, I then replaced all of the steel fuel line from engine to rubber hose exiting the top of the gas tank. Still didn't work. I then replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric fuel pump and mounted it on the chassis just after the fuel tank...still no fuel. I then removed the rear queen bed and cut a hole in the floor above the fuel tank and replaced the rubber fuel hose. All working now.
Outcome: The engine runs now.


1983 Fleetwood Southwind 28'



Posted By: J.W.T. on 09/10/09 01:04pm

Hot June day in Texas on I-45 between Houston and Dallas. Cruising with the traffic flow when a tremendous crunching and metal rending noise emaninated from the dog house. We pulled over on the side of the road and after cooling off crawled under to assess the damage. DW said it sounded like the fan blade came off. (What do they know) Yep it was the fan blade. 1/2 of one blade had broken clean off and had traveled down to the balancer where it was stuck and making the horrible noise. I pulled it out and found no other damage so we slowly made it to the next town and a repair station. The break was a cvlean one with no cracks etc. We did not hit anything or have anything bounce up off the raod. We had checked this item when we checked the belt tension before we left. We had made no adjustments so it was a big mystery why the blade would fail as it did.


Posted By: Fulltimers on 11/29/09 07:51pm

RV particulars: 2003 Rexhall 3550BSL
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): 8.1L gas, Allison 5 speed, Workhorse Chassis
Miles: 35000
Year: 2003
Break Down Description: Loss of power
Symptoms: Running along fine, sudden loss of power then resumes running along fine.
Effect: loss of power
Cause: Crankshaft Position Sensor
Outcome: Replaced sensor an no further problems

We were running down the interstate when the motorhome lost power for less than a second then resumed to running fine. Happened 3 times during a 300 mile trip. An engine scanner found codes p1518 and p0336. Apparently the p0336 caused the p1518 code because once the crankshaft position sensor was replaced all codes were gone. Drove another 300 miles with no problem so far.

Update 10/27/10: Over 42000 miles and still running strong.

* This post was edited 10/27/10 10:41pm by Fulltimers *


Posted By: GWFULTZ on 11/30/09 01:11pm

2003 Dolphin

I guess I belong here. I've had 4 Air Conditioning compressor failures as well as other A/C failures since we bought this coach new. Workhorse says it is not a continuing problem even though we had 3 compressor failures in the first 2 years. I'm sure glad they stand behind their product.


Just the two of us


Posted By: islandvagabonds on 12/12/09 10:15pm

2003 Discovery Cat C7 330HP. Diesel began idling roughly at stop lights in Hermasillo Mex. Stopped at Pemix just south of hermasillo to check ful filter for water but none there. Diesel would not start again. After towing to a service location turned out to be a bad oil pressure sensor. I highly recommend the tow company Gruas Garcia in Hermasillo . They took great care of me and the coach.


islandvagabond


Posted By: mobilefleet on 12/15/09 05:00pm

I've had AAA and Allstate in the past and got bad service- found a better motor club that apparently is veteran owned...www.usa-roadside.com. Used them once and they were pretty quick

* This post was edited 12/15/09 05:24pm by mobilefleet *


Posted By: Dutch_12078 on 12/15/09 05:38pm

mobilefleet wrote:

I've had AAA and Allstate in the past and got bad service- found a better motor club that apparently is veteran owned...www.usa-roadside.com. Used them once and they were pretty quick

USA Roadside's RV towing is limited to 10 miles, and your other non-RV vehicles are not covered. At $99/year, the feature list is very short compared to Coach-Net or Good Sam.


Dutch
1995 Coachmen Catalina 322QBXL
F53 chassis, 460 V8, TST TPMS
Quadra Bigfoot EZE Levelers
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate



Posted By: Jackjagt on 12/25/09 09:03pm

We were in Phoenix,filling up on Diesel when I noticed some coolant dripping under the back of my 06 Monaco Safari Cheetah Diesel pusher. The hose from the low point to the header tank had a leak near the low point where it did a 180 degree curve under a frame member. I was unable to buy a replacement hose, so I loaded up on extra antifreze and pressed on Eastward.
We were driving thru Kansas on a windy and very cold day when I noticed that the dash heater was not putting out heat! Why? I found out 15 minutes later when the low cooling fluid light can on. I pulled over and found the back of of the RV was wet with cooling fluid. The cause was the hose from the header tank to the low point had split where it made 180 degree turn under a frame member.
I limped to the next service station and made temp repairs by cutting off the degraded part of the hose and routed it more directly to the low point and clamped it. We bot enough antifreeze to refill the cooling system.
On the way home we stopped for warranty service in Elkhart,IN and added this problem to the list. When the defective hose was replaced I rescued the hose from the garbage and dicovered that it was "zero pressure Marine exhaust hose"!
This is the same Monaco that later went Bankrupt and my waranties are thus usless.


Posted By: sd1209 on 12/26/09 11:04am

2006 Gulfstream 30' Class A, Ford V-10, 6000 miles.....

Problem: MH running fine then all of a sudden immediate overheat indication, then immediate drop back down to normal....

Going up the 405 thru LA and overheat gauge goes rapidly to max for a few seconds, then drops back to normal....Does this every few miles...I knew it was not overheating, engine was normal temp and coolant was full....Heading to a repair facility when gauge goes to max and stays there....After about a minute, engine goes in "fail safe" mode, operating on 5 of 10 cyls......Really fun in LA traffic...Pull off and engine feels normal, coolant fine, so I know it is some type of false overheat.....Engine off and on re-start operates fine....Get to a GREAT Ford dealer in Arroyo Grande, Ca (Mullahey Ford) who diagnose the problem as "false overheat", covered by Ford TSB.....They fix the problem and all is now fine after another 1000 miles.....

This Ford dealer knew we were just "passing through" but treated us great.....


Steve and Liz
Elko, Nv
2014 Newmar Dutch Star
2010 Jeep Wrangler


Posted By: chcgm on 02/18/10 02:29pm

MH2004 Monaco Knight

problemear trailing arm

We are currently in Slidell,La. Our mh is sitting at Empire Truck Sales.We left Foutainbleau State Park in Mandeville,La.,heard a noise that my wife said came from the rear of the coach.Stopped & looked around,didn't find anything but suspected a bad u-joint.Called Coach-net & they had it towed to Empire Truck Sales(they are anauthorized Freightliner repair facility).Been sitting here since Mon. the 15th.All I can say is don't break down around New Orleans around Mardi Gratime &don't have a Monaco.I called Monaco & they said it wouldn't be covered under the recall because my mh was made in Elkhart,In. & not in Or.,& they wouldn't cover it anyway because Monaco went belly up & weas taken over by Navistar.Now we're out $$$$ because of this thing,oh well,It's been pretty good up until now,considering we're fulltimers.


Posted By: kdk on 03/03/10 11:00pm

Own a 2006 Holiday Rambler Ambassador with Cummins 330hp and Allison. Left home in Mi. on 26 Dec 2008 with snow on the roads. Arrived in Pensacola, Fl for 6 weeks then on to Sebring,Fl. for 3 months. When returning home I discovered the Pac Brake would not come on. After arriving home and some troubleshooting I found the Pac Brake shaft to be frozen solid in the open position. Extended service contract paid for a new upgraded PRXB and installation. Cause was from corrosion and not getting proper lubrication. After the new Pac Brake was installed, I called the manufacturer if it would be to rotate the brake so the shaft would be vertical and allow the lubricant to run down the shaft. I also installed a double throw toggle switch in the engine compartment so I can manually actuate the Pac Brake while lubricating it. So far this year I have checked it and it is still working OK.KDK


06 Holiday Rambler Ambassador
11 Buick Lacross


Posted By: CruisinJ on 03/30/10 10:58am

Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 350 with T400 trans
Miles:59,000
Year:85
Break Down Description: Would turn over, but not run. would sputter if I held the accelerator to the floor, but still not run.
Symptoms:Flooded carbs/cylinders
Effectpark plugs not producing spark, getting fouled
Causexcessive fuel in cylinders
Outcomeeplaced plugs, allowed cylinders to dry out. starts and runs perfetctly.


Justin

1987 Winnebago Elandan 34RU - Good shape, runs great!
2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 - I need an enclosed trailer for this...
2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer - 6.0 Diesel with 190k and climbing
Not all who wander are lost...



Posted By: inspectorudy on 04/25/10 05:47pm

I am learning a lot to help down the road if problems come up. Who ever thought this discussion up was brilliant. There is one thing that I have noticed from reading almost this entire forum, and I don't mean to step on any toes but it seems like there are as many diesel engine problems as there are gas. I sort of had the idea that because diesels are so much more expensive than gas MH's that there was an inherent understanding that they were more reliable. If they are both prone to fail about equally what is the big reason for diesel? I have never owned a diesel and would like to hear from some of you who own them.


Posted By: newxmar on 04/27/10 03:08pm

I have had gas engine units for 10 years, have analyzed the same gas vs diesel question when I purchased. My thoughts are:
1.Rear radiator in diesels leads to overheating problems---if not properly manintained.
2. Fuel/filter problems lead to many diesel engine problems.
3. Accessory items seem to fail on diesels, believe the basic engine is long life, but some of the many switches, etc. seem to fail or cause problems.
4. With a new gas unit I could pay cash, but a new diesel costs quite a bit more and I did not want to borrow $$$$$.
5. Maintenance costs (parts and labor) seem higher. Believe with a gas engine you are dealing with automotive/individual type of charges vs industrial/corporate type of charges with a diesel.

Now, if you want a big (over 38 foot), heavy, powerful, smooth riding coach, diesel is the only way to go. Also I now only put on about 8,000 miles a year and half time it, so the justification of a diesel is very difficult. Coach is sitting and being lived in most of the time.

Selection depends on your own situation, use and thoughts.


Posted By: snakesvt04 on 04/27/10 06:15pm

RV TYPE: 1993 WINNEBAGO BRAVE
i am new to this sit and i have no idea if anyone can help me but if you can that would be great. We just got this class A RV and i try to turn the generator on and it kills all the power in the motorhome i checked all the fuses and nothing was wrong with them the generator isn't even making any noise when i push the start to turn it on. it was working last week i used it now nothing and info will be great thanks


Posted By: MickeyBrennan on 04/30/10 08:13am

We had to stop to get out the duck tape. The new windshield came loose! I kept telling her that the door was not closed tight! Sorry hun!


Blog


Posted By: shonrt1 on 05/07/10 09:42pm

2001 National Caribbean 35' DP - Allison Transmission
260 HP Cummins ISB
Overheated about 100 miles into trip.
Made it to a Cummins Repair Shop
This was our first trip in the used DP we purchased in December.
Cummins shop found charge air cooler was shot and filter was clogged.
Asked shop to replace CAC and filter, change coolant, change thermostat and clean and flush radiator.
When degreasing radiator, fins started to fall out. Radiator was corroded from road salt (purchased from individual in Chicago area).
Radiator had to be replaced.
RV nows run beautifully.

Do not rely on CAC air gauge, which is supposed to show when airflow is becoming restricted. Our gauge, which I checked regularly, showed all was normal. My CAC was so clogged, I'm surprised the RV would even start. Cummins tech told me they see this all the time, RV'ers rely on the gauge without checking the filter in the CAC and they've seen cylinders scorched because of dirty air reaching the cylinders.


Posted By: SNOPRO711X on 05/12/10 06:34pm

This was the trip from hell a few years ago.
I bought my brothers 1992 Tioiga Class C from him. Before we went on our first trip that summer I discovered that the refrigerator did not work, replaced the refrigerator. Went into the local tire shop and asked them if it was time for new tires, they said I was good for another year. We decided to travel from Mn to an area South of Butte MT then back to MN via the Big Horn mountains. On the second day of our trip the motor home lost power and quit near Columbus MT. The temperature was about 100 degrees, I got towed back to Columbus by the local body shop/wrecker company. Since it was a Sunday he towed us to his shop and got us plugged in to power for the night. The next morning the motor home started just fine. The wrecker operator told me that I probably needed a new fuel pump and that the Ford garage in town would tell me that I did not need one. He was right, the Ford garage said the only problem was the fuel filter and they sent me on my way. I made it as far as Bute MT before it quit again. The local Ford garage wanted nothing to do with fixing a motor home. I convinced them that I needed a new fuel pump, they agreed to farm the job out to a truck repair shop. I got the MH back the next day and everything worked great for the rest of the trip until we were on our way home. I then had a blow out on the inside right rear dual tire. We were in the middle of no where but I did have a jack with me and was able to change the tire. Naturally the fender liner, exhaust pipe and storage drawer under the refrigerator were destroyed.
The next Summer I took this same MH into the shop because it was making a noise from the drive train. The mechanic could not find anything wrong. I figured it out 700 miles later in the middle of Montana, bad U-joint on the drive shaft. I was able to limp into Sheridan WY and find a shop that could fix it that day. The repair was very reasonable and I gave the mechanic a nice tip for his prompt service.


Posted By: Scrooge39 on 06/20/10 08:09pm

RV: 2000 HR Ambassador DP, Cummins ISB engine with Banks Power System.

Symptom: On a 6700 mile trip out west, about ¾ thru the trip had dash “WARNING” light, loss of Exhaust temp. gauge and Boost gauge, engine went into “derate” mode (fastest I could go was about 45mph). Above symptoms occurred intermittently then went solid broke.

Cause: Fault code posted was 123, which is Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor circuit malfunction. When the Cummins computer detects problem in the above-mentioned circuit, it goes into “derate” mode in order to protect the engine. The Banks Ottomind is in circuit between pressure sensor and Cummins computer. Cabled around Ottomind black box and was able to make it back home with full power. Upon removing cover of Ottomind, discovered all sorts of road dirt on the circuit board. This, I feel, caused the demise of the black box.

Resolution: Replaced Banks Ottomind black box (not cheap either).

A word of caution to those with the Banks System installed on their units: check the location of the Ottomind box. Mine was located in the engine compartment (about 2 feet above the road) where it was exposed to moisture and road dirt. I installed the new box inside the coach under the bed where is free from moisture and road dirt.


Posted By: rm23956 on 07/03/10 02:01pm

1989 Allegreo
Chevy 454 engine
75,000 miles
Long story short-Fan belt broke and engine overheated and before I caught it, it threw a rod. Had motorhome towed 300 miles home to Atlanta and I replac