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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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stevegriffith22

the pass

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Posted: 05/14/12 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey guys got a question for you. I rebuilt the rear wall of my sportsman. I don't really care what the back of it looks like. I went to the recomended RV repair place to purchase siding. They wanted 5.99 a sqare foot. I get that there is a cost for everthing, but I can't swallow that. I have thought about everything from 3 tab to fiber glass! This rig is for fun, its mechanically sound I have done all the work my self. So do you all have anythoughts of what do do with back of the rv. now the framing and ply is up, I have just to insulate and cover it. I was thinking of flat steel roofing? thoughts?

sg

rehoppe

Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else

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Posted: 05/14/12 06:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STeve

You might check out what a sheet metal shop has to offer?

I've seen thin aluminum and steel plate at Recycle Metal place,,, they sell metal by the pound.

Also seen 'used' siding at RV recycle place.

For that matter steel or vinyl siding might work as well. You'd need to secure it well, since that is a vacuum pocket in the back.


Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT

Jer&Ger

Kuna, ID.

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Posted: 05/14/12 09:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you use steel, be sure not to let the aluminum and steel touch, Electrolysis (sp?).


Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis

stevegriffith22

the pass

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Posted: 05/14/12 10:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All right, thanks, suggestions on how to keep them seperate? AT the top the will be touching for about a foot. I understand the elctrolysis, how would you seperate them?

sg

stevegriffith22

the pass

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Posted: 05/14/12 10:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also, got a buddy that got me metal roofing flat galvanized in 8x10 sheets. I'm going to use that. I know it won't look pretty, but were not going for looks this is going to be a surfing rig with a rhino lined floor. Dry and mechanically sound is our priorty.

sg

vaxination

california

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Posted: 05/21/12 12:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Guys, I got done repainting my living room area of the rv (dodge sportsman chassis 75 tioga) Its pretty much a full remodel inside compared to the original layout, theres a gallery of pics at
http://vaxrv.com/2012/05/new-coat-of-paint-for-the-living-room/

you can click blog at the top to see other posts about projects I'm working on. I figured I might as well keep a record of what I'm doing with it since its an epic project of sorts. So far I've painted both the outside and inside white, I'm debating trim colors at the moment but I had to get it to at least base white so it didnt look that 70s brown outside or hippy swirl inside. much better!

I think next its time to do some engine work, it runs good it I just need to source out the cause of the black smog she puts out and maybe try to cut down on that, I also need to reseal the dog house and some other small stuff. Do you guys think adding a cleaner to the engine oil next time I change it out would be a good idea? I know old engines sometimes end up worse off if you put something too abrasive in there, but I'm sure there is buildup from years of grime that would likely be good to flush out. I'm open to your suggestions, thanks guys!

Drew (vaxrv.com)


1975 Dodge Sportsman 360 double barrel v8 500 watts of solar, 2k onan gennie the never ending project ; ]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.

Trish Davis

eastern Ohio

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Posted: 05/22/12 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't add an "engine cleaner" to your oil. Use 10W30.
Not synthetic 5W, use good Valvoline or Castrol 10W30.

You will have to change your oil and filter at least 3 or 4 times over the period of 1 month to shift the 'old oil' dirt.

Make certain to change the filter every time because the dirt gets caught in it and, if you don't, you'll end up with the problem you have --old oil dirt circulating inside your engine block.

Change oil & filter, drive 20 miles. Do this everyday for 1 week.
Then, change the oil and filter again.
Once your old oil comes out the color of honey, you have eliminated all the years of dirt.

Again, DO NOT add things to your oil. Unless you know why and, at this point, you don't.


Add 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to 1 tank of gas, ~15 gallons.
Add Marvel Mystery Oil at every fillup and use an octane booster.
DO NOT put MMO in the oil. Put it in the tank.


Is your tailpipe black on the inside? (Probably.)
This means your engine is running rich, or, too much fuel-to-air mix.

However, you need to change one thing at a time to figure out precisely what is going on with your engine. Do not tinker with the idle screw on the carburator. Really, don't.


After 4 oil changes and 2 tanks of gas + MMO, you will see a marked improvement.
Then, move on to a full tune-up.



vaxination wrote:

Next its time to do some engine work, it runs good it I just need to source out the cause of the black smog she puts out and maybe try to cut down on that.

Do you guys think adding a cleaner to the engine oil next time I change it out would be a good idea?

I know old engines sometimes end up worse off if you put something too abrasive in there, but I'm sure there is buildup from years of grime that would likely be good to flush out. I'm open to your suggestions, thanks!

Drew (vaxrv.com)


Griff in Fairbanks

Alaska

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Posted: 05/22/12 11:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Trish is on target ...

However, I used to add the MMO to the crankcase engine oil ... now I use Seafoam SF16. One pint added to the new oil when I change the oil and filter ... and the other pint to the gas tank.

Is it black smoke or blue? Like Trish said, black smoke or soot in the tailpipe indicates it's running rich. Blue smoke indicates it's using oil. One older Mopar LA engines (the small blocks), the valve stem seals tend to disintegrate and cause oil to be sucked pass the valve stems into the combustion cylinders. (Many people -- myself included -- have done unnecessary valve jobs when replacing the valve stem seals would have reduced or eliminated the excess oil usage.)

I don't know if big blocks (383, 413, or 440) have the same problem with valve stem seals but I'd definitely try replacements before going deeper into the engine.

Always, always, ALWAYS change the filter when you change the oil.

And -- change the air filter. A plugged up air filter can cause an engine to run rich.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis ... no engine or tranny (yet)


rehoppe

Denver & Nathrop Colo or somewhere else

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Posted: 05/22/12 11:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would Highly suggest doing some diagnosis, before you do Anything.

A compression check would be one of the first steps.

Does it use oil?

Is the PVC valve stuck?

When you open the 'oil fill cap' does it push out of that?

Does it smoke on acceleration, on deceleration, or all the time?

Get or read a good manual on your engine application, as to 'engine smoking'.

You may hane any one of a multitude of problems. Eliminate/narrow the possibilities, hoping that it Not rings. It May be as simple as plugged oil gallery drainage ports/passageways. And a good engine cleaner is all you need.

As a general rule I don't like engine cleaners because most of them 'clean' by breading done deposits, which also reduces the viscosity of the oil. And that ain't good! When I do injector cleaner, I like to change the engine oil within 3 tanks of gas later, cause some of that stuff could get by the rings and into the crankcase..... I like to Not damage my bottom end with poor viscosity.

vaxination

california

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Posted: 05/22/12 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys, great advice, I've got a chiltons on it, and I'll try the suggestions, I'd rather eliminate the relatively easy tune up stuff first rather than diving into the more expensive stuff blindly. its black in the tailpipe so its running rich, the question is, is it running rich for some other reason, like maybe they had it running rich so it wouldnt die when idling etc.. shes old, i'll have to take my time figuring it out, thanks for the place to start

vax

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