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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/15/04 02:22am

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

* This post was edited 10/03/04 09:14am by an administrator/moderator *


1972 Mobile Traveler 20' Dodge B300 Class C
"The Kobayashi Maru" Trans- Prarie Land Craft
"Requiescat in pace et in amore..."


Posted By: denisondc on 08/15/04 04:52am

My 72 winny is a class A on the M400 chassis. Another durable chassis for sure! All of the travcos I have seen I believe were on the M300, M400, or M500 chassis. There are many winnies from the early 70s around on the M300 chassis. I dont know how many parts the B300 and M300 chassis had in common though. My impression is the class C RVs from the early 70s were fairly scarce.
I bought mine for $2500 in 91, and wouldn't trade it for any newer RV. It like its simplicity. Good luck.


72 Winnebago D22T


Posted By: RIPSAW on 08/15/04 06:18am

Me do Me do! check your mailbox


Posted By: bradyk on 08/15/04 06:49am

I am with you as well.
1976 Dodge Establishment with 360.
Great camping machine.
Have had it for 15 years and we keep talking time for new but it still
goes out every second weekend from May unitl October.


2001 Chevrolet 2500hd Silverado LT 4x4 6.0L/4.10
2005 KZ Outdoorsmen 2605PF
Equal-i-zer 10K WDH
Champion 4000W Generator
Champion 2000W Generator x 2
Ken & Sandra
Yugi Dog, Jet Dog



Posted By: groenlynx on 08/15/04 05:38pm

Howdy! You have inspired me to talk about my 77 Dodge with 440; it's a "Fireball" 24 footer. I would like to establish contact with you regarding the Dodge Rigs.


Elmer


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/15/04 08:28pm

Hello Everybody and Welcome!!!

I am amazed that there are more of
us- hope the number keeps growing!
I want to use my M/T for everything.
Hunting, fishing, arts and crafts fairs,
you name it. And I do admire it's simplicity
of design and quality of workmanship,
and strength and durability of material.

Leroy aka 1978_Dodge_Delta has one of
the sharpest old A-Dodge-io rigs I have
ever seen! I only hope one day to trick
mine out to look at least HALF as good
as his does!

If there is anything I can do to help anyone
work on, obtain parts for or just research
information for your B300 (and if I can, the
M series chassis/drivelines as well) I will
be delighted to be of service!

Why do I call them A-Dodge-io's? There is a musical
term (in Latin or Italian of course) "Adagio"
(which pronounces like my crazy spelling above).
It means "Slow". Which is exactly what the Redhead
thought one day following in the minivan (yes. I'm a
M/V ace!) while I was driving the Koby. Slow.
'Course, when I drop that 440 in and do a few other
hundred trillion neglected maintenance things an
old techie like me dotes on it'll really step lively.
Then I'll call it "Presto" which means in music-speak
means dang fast!

And I love the sound of the elusive Mopar Hummingbird!
So guys thanks for diving in and keep posting. They might
just constitute us to be a movement or something... or in
need of a movement of some form or another... and remember...

You might be an RVing redneck if:

Your RV is actually named and christened with beer
in the radiator...
Your wife's new hairdo sustained damage from a low-
hanging roof A/C trim...
You have ever actually tried using a PLUNGER on an RV toilet.
Your house's new main water line is the supply line you
bought new for your RV...
In a pinch you've substituted moonshine for RV plumbing anti
freeze...
Being "in the doghouse" means you'll be sharing the RV with
your oldest son and his wife and three kids...
You know exactly where on the roof of your RV to place a
lawn chair so you can see the movie real good at the drive in...
You've ever had animals other than a dog or cat get in your RV-
with or without you...
You've ever thought "Basement Stowage" meant the RV was parked over an unused service pit...

Jeff Foxworthy really needs to take a crack at this.

May the greasy side be down, the shiny side up, all your tires be round and rollin', the hills be short and the valleys long, the sun be smilin' down and the rain wait 'til night, the times be good and
the memories great,the gas cheap and may God bless!

the rednecks in the next lane over

Mark aka White Knight
the Redhead aka Fair Lady
Roly Poly the Coonhound
Pookie the French Poodle


Posted By: jcarew on 08/15/04 09:50pm

We own a 27ft Class C Xplorer Excursion built on a 2002 Dodge Cab-chassis Cummins 6spd. There were also quite a few built by Serro Scotty on Dodge Chassis thru the mid-90,s . This Scotty company had a fire and don,t know if they ever rebuilt. There also was a company in Houston I believe that built Class C to order on Dodge C-C . The story I heard was that rodeo people liked them for the power which allowed them to pull their horse trailer an gear. and the interior of the M.H. could be built any way you wanted it. Have seen quite a few in our travels. The most recent was In Utah last spring, We came out of a restaurant an their was one waiting to talk to us about our coach as for the Travco there are a lot of them on the road those things last forever. Good Luck with your Mopar endeavors. Those 440,s live forever. The only problem I ever had with them was the freeze plugs rusting out and losing the coolant. Replaced with brass marine plugs no more problem. Sorry for rambling on.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/16/04 12:03am

Please Jcarew-

Ram-ble on!


Posted By: Cdog on 08/16/04 09:43am

I fit this category. 360 engine.


22' 73 Diamond Class C
03 Crestliner LSi 2485
01 Dakota Quad Cab
63 Newman 17' being restored


Posted By: pugmaster on 08/16/04 01:56pm

'76 Dodge, Class C, 24 ft, 440 engine.
Bought it a little over a year ago and have been eyebrow deep in
repairs and reconditioning since, and LOVE IT! Spent months trying
to find just the right older model Dodge to give lots of TLC.
Had some major issues with mechanical and electrcal problems, but it's coming along great. I would love to share ideas, share the agonies and learn more from those who also have a fondness for the Dodge breed.

I must be a RV redneck! I christened it "Rosebud" with a toast of beer, then asked the Lords blessing in Rosebuds travels.


Posted By: groenlynx on 08/16/04 05:24pm

Hey, Dodge-ee-o's, glad to chat. How 'bout this deal: Hedman Hedders are available for the 318-360 engines, AND the 413-400-440 Big Blocks. basically, this could easily result in horsepower boost of from 25-50 extra horsepower, AND more Torque AND Better Fuel Mileage. Keep up the posting, and keep the faith.


Posted By: HiTech on 08/16/04 07:00pm

It was not a C, but I had a 22' A on a Dodge M400 chassis with a 360. The C's are far better - it was almost impossible and very expensive to get brake rotors for the class A.

Jim


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 08/17/04 12:51am

You can count me in also.
'78 RobinHood on a '77 Dodge Chassis (MB400).
Like Pugmaster I have been doing a lot of restoration.
Have had squirrels completely chew the engine wiring to pieces twice so far.
Absolutely love the vehicle. Had 2 chevy coaches prior to this (Class A and Class C) but they don't hold a candle to the 440 nor the Dodge chassis.
Plan on keeping it until I can't drive anymore.


-jc

78 Robinhood 23' Class C
97 Geo Tracker Convertible 4x4
87 Jeep Comanche Chief 4x4


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 08/17/04 07:09am

Count us in too, Dodge 440 24 ft!

According to my child, it's not a motorhome, it's "The Tioga!"



Rhonda & Scott
Tasia & her Barbie fishing pool
1978 Tioga 24'
2005 Stingray 185


Posted By: jcarew on 08/17/04 08:11am

Welcome to the group!!! That 440 should make that 24fter stand on its rear wheels. Have fun Jcarew


Posted By: ms_bondurant on 08/17/04 10:02am

Just purchased the first Dodge vehicle I've ever owned...now at age 48.

It's a 1974 Tioga with a Dodge 318. I have an obvious learning curve here. Would love to be part of a Dodge MH group!

Nancy


Posted By: pugmaster on 08/17/04 10:59am

How can headers fit the 440??
I barely get my fingers in to change the spark plugs on the drivers side and must either crawl under the cab on the passenger side or remove the pass. wheel to get to the plugs on that side. I owned a '73 dodge MH with a 360 several years ago and the headers that the prev. owner had installed fit so close I had to do some creative remodeling of the floorboard area and bottom of the doghouse to lessen the heat transfer to the passenger side.
Wanted to put headers on the 440,(huge MPG increase and less back preasure on the engine),until I got a good look at the clearances at the exhaust manifolds. Settled for changing the exhaust sys. form single to dual.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/17/04 07:31pm

Welcome Denisondc,Ripsaw,BradyK,Groenlynx,Jcarew,Cdog and
Pugmaster,HiTech,RobinHoodRV,RhondaK,MsBondurant,1978_Dodge
Delta!!!

Thank each one of you for your response to this post. It
really was my intention to locate and communicate with
anyone in RV.NET that owns an older Dodge "B" or "M" chassis
RV, and hopefully to form a network for our exclusive benefit.
After all our RV's are of the variety called the "Fixer-Upper".
This allows some unique creative license to make our RV's truly
"our own", rather than settling for a floor plan and options.
It is also my intent to "scrapbook"' if you will, of our efforts.
I would like to see galleries of older RV's that owners have restored to their specifications, be them what they may. Each is unique, like
snowflakes- no two are alike. And every story needs to be told.
Because each story is unique too.

We are also among an elite group of RV'ers who can proudly say
three words:

"It's paid for."

I'll never knock new stuff, I love it as much as the next guy.
But like I stated earlier I would rather have a vehicle that
I can do everything with, when I want to, and Heaven forbid, if
the world goes nuts tomorrow, the ol' Kobayashi Maru will "set
sail for the Promised Land" (more Trekkie speak- NE1 wanna guess
the movie that came out of? It's in the first four and Kirk says the line.)and me and the Redhead will do "Road Worrier" hee hee.

So let's keep this up and going. It's an established fact that there
is strength and safety in numbers, as well as a wealth of good ideas,
and a heckuva lotta good fellowship. In the meantime I'm discovering
just how many wasp nests I can run into cleaning out the Koby, so if you hear a buncha colorful metaphors bein' exhaled in rapid transit,
I'm bein' chased an' stung!

So, later on, God bless, and we'll leave the light on for ya!

your inflamed ol' friend

the Wasp Meister aka Mark


Posted By: tkahike on 08/18/04 02:55am

Hey all, we have a 1978 Dodge Coachman 18 footer. I will have to post a picture at some point. We love it. Small enough to get into places but big enough for the family. It has a 360 in it and runs great. I have done a lot of work to it in upgrades, more of my toys then anything else. The unit was in real good shape when I got it, so it wasn't that bad. I like to tinker, so in that sense it is nice, and best of all its paid for.


Its smarter to be lucky then its lucky to be smart!

1986 29' Corsair travel trailer with a 2001 Suburban 1500

My other favorite forum: www.MINIONREPORT.net


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/18/04 07:27am

Hello and welcome to the nut factory TKAHike!

You're exactly right about the manuverability of your rig!
The Kobayashi Maru is a tat bit longer than yours but I can get it in some places that just boggle some folk's minds... like in my driveway!!!

Keep on posting and get a gallery up- I'd love to see how you fixed your rig! I might even get some ideas...

TTYL

Mark aka White Knight


Posted By: pugmaster on 08/18/04 02:11pm

Yo, It's the Pugmaster here again.
Just removed the carter thermoquad carb from my 440, kicked it, shouted colorful language at it, let it lay there in the rain and mud for a few days as I awaited the arrival of my new Edlebrock carb.
It finally arrived and was I was shocked, surprised ! at how easy it was to install.
LOTS of hoses and other******that was required on the previous carb was sealed off or removed, not needed on the Edlebrock per the instructions.Plus a nice little sticker to apply stating that the carb met all emissions codes. Rosebud is purring now as never before!
VERY expensive carb,($560) but well worth the cost. Easier startups
smoother running, plus they claim a drastic increase in mpg and better response compared to the thermoquad. I'll find the truth of it soon. But, had to trash the original air filter housing. The thicker base plate put the carb height too high. A Edlebrock air filter unit does not sit as high as the orig air filter unit, so I purchased one for $29. Looks great and a perfect fit with a little space left to spare.


Posted By: tkahike on 08/18/04 05:25pm

Whiteknight001-Thanks I will we are going away this weekend, so I will get some pics up when we get back. It's a nice little rig. My wife and I both have been volunteers for over 15 years on the local ambulance squad, so she has no fear of driving of it. It's actually smaller then the one ambulance.

Next year I'm going to redo the paint since that is the biggest project that needs to get done. Enjoy this site lots of good info and good people.

Well heading off to the auto parts store, want to keep a spare belt handy, just in case.


Posted By: groenlynx on 08/19/04 10:03am

Pugmaster, I am well aware that the exhaust manifolds on a 440 (or 413 or 400) are Nearly Impossible to work on, due to Clearance Problems. That's the very Reason to Trash them, and get the Exhaust Headers. However.......... they are only available for 1977-1981 Class C's. I refer to Hedman "Hedders", Part # 79220 from Performance Automotive Warehouse for Aprox. $200 or less. (Also, for the small block 273-318-340-360 's there is the Hedman Part. # 79030, for Aprox. 150 or less.) AND, there are other Models for Class A Dodge MH's.


Posted By: pugmaster on 08/19/04 02:04pm

Really had my hopes up on those headers. Thanks for the info.
Guess I'll need to invent a tool for changing those spark plugs.Sure can't deal with the scraps and pain of how it has to be done.


Posted By: Cdog on 08/19/04 02:29pm

I need to check on those headers. I am going to have to pull the exhaust manifold on my 360 this winter because of a leak. If the manifold is bad, I may just go to headers.


Posted By: Slim & Retta's Pace on 08/19/04 10:39pm

Greetings! We are getting our 77 Dodge Tioga in shape for some good times. Have not used it in a couple of years. Have decided against upgrading until we have tried it once again. Heck, it was good enough while raising our children, should be good enough now that they are grown and we are retired and retiring soon.


Slim & Retta B


Posted By: Westwind on 08/21/04 08:57pm

I am brand new to owning a motor home. A good friend gave me a 1979 Dodge Brougham in very good condition. Don't know what chassis it is on, has a 360cuin engine, is 22feet, spent the summer cleaning and making small repairs. Put in a new rug and floor trim. Now I have to learn how all the appliances and gas and electric run features operate. Enjoy reading the posts here and getting what seems to be very reliable information about operating and owning a motor home. tdavis


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/22/04 08:38am

Hello Slim and Retta B., and WestWind!

Great to hear fom you! WestWind, just post and ask us
if you need help with your "new" RV, also check out
some info: "RV Repair and Maintenance Manual" by Bob
Livingston. I picked up a copy at Half.com and it's a
good solid read for anyone interested in RVing and keeping
one up. If yours has the front cab of a B300 Dodge van
it is a "C" which is what most of us have. If it doesn't
have a van or truck front cab, ie all a RV body then you
have the very durable "M" chassis Dodge. Either way, welcome!
You are among friends!

Slim and Retta B. welcome too!! Me and the Redhead wanted an RV
but were shut down by the cost of a new one. When I brought the
"Kobayashi Maru", our '72 Mobile Traveler, home, she had her doubts.
Until one day I found her inside it measuring for curtains and mini blinds... and telling me to buy another range and fridge... then I
knew she was O.K. with it. I figure by the time I'm done with all the mechanical and safety mods, and the interior re-do, we'll be into less than $3500.00 and we'll have a new old RV exactly like we want.
And best of all we can say: "It's paid for!".

I really like that. We both are 12 years away from retiring and don't want to wait 'til then. This is how we'll be able to live a little.
And I still don't knock new... I just prefer what I have. Wish you
both the best and keep us posted!

Happy trails!

Mark aka White Knight


Posted By: Fencepost on 08/23/04 01:27pm

1978 Tioga with 360 2 bbl on a M or B300 Chassis. Picked it up for $1500 knowing it needed an engine. Toyed with the idea of dropping a 440 in it when I got around to rebuilding it at 69000 miles. It had 68000 on it when I got it. Seeing what a tight fit the 360 was when I removed it I stuck with the 360. Didn't even put a 4 bbl on it. They wanted $5000.oo to rebuild it here in Cal so, I did it myself for about $600.oo. That's because I put a new RV cam in it, MSD ignition & coil & headers on it. Otherwise it would have been less. It gets 6 to 8 miles per gallon now & it doesn't seem to matter much if we are towing or not. It sure sounds good, it has a real nice lope to it & turns heads at idle. It's a 21 foot motor home & sometimes we tow a 22 boat. I know I'm letting the tail wag the dog here but it seems to work, so far. However I am wondering if that is legal here in Cal, or anywhere else, to tow a toad larger than your tow vehicle. I'm always working on this thing & probably have $10,000 in it by now, but everything works because it is new. We love it & are happy we started with it. Only 4 years later now, & we already want a newer class A. We heard that their holding tanks are larger. Seems we are always on "full" There are only two of us. I take military showers but I think the little missus still thinks she's at home. And, that's why she goes with me.


Be kind to your neighbor, he knows where you live.


Posted By: susan-y on 08/23/04 04:02pm

1978 Dodge Sportsman chassis. 21'American Clipper. 440 engine having it rebuilt. Exhaust headers ("dougs" not doug thorley.. guess his wife got the "dough thorley" line when they divorced?) Fell in love with the look and the twin exhaust made me smile, rather throaty. Decided it was worth some $$ to get it interstate and cross country ready! Should be home the end of the month. I do envy you who have the (whatever) to get in and fix it yourself. But hey.. someone has to keep the "living wage" jobs in Oregon. HAH!!!


Life looks better through a windshield.




Posted By: Fencepost on 08/23/04 04:11pm

Thanks Susan. Love the Great State of Oregon. If you don't mind saying, what did you have to pay for that rebuild? We are always up towards you in the Lake Shasta area. Our Motorhome says "Sportsman" on the side too. Ours has the bunk beds in the back which we use only as storage space. No kids here. Regards, Fencepost & wife.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/24/04 07:43am

Hello Fencepost and Susan-y

Welcome to the Mopar corner of the RV world!
Stay up with us- and if you get the opportunity
to post pic's, do so! Burnt orange shag and all!

your fellow Mopar land yacht captain

Mark a.k.a. White Knight


Posted By: susan-y on 08/24/04 03:55pm

Hey Fence.. 3000$ for the rebuild. Also new manifold, headers, balanced... whole bunch of other terms that I haven't the foggiest what they mean. It wasn't rebuilt inhouse, they sent it to Eugene. Who knows what the tally will be after they rebuild the A/C, heater core replaced, few other things.... I'll be the person begging beside the road, sign will read "My Clipper needs work, god bless you"


Posted By: Slim & Retta's Pace on 08/24/04 06:34pm

Thanks Sir White Knight. We used it this weekend, just for an overnight at the new site. Still serves the purpose and like you said, it's paid for! I do believe my hubby overpacked, cause he just got home today with the RV, I came back ahead, and he was unpacking most of the stuff that he packed, unused. We had everything with us except for a pair of tiny tweezers to get a splinter out of our grandson's hand. But we did have a good time! And yes, I already got the material for the curtains, now if I can find someone who can sew them. !!


Posted By: 79roadranger on 08/25/04 01:07pm

I have a 1979 Dodge Road Ranger.
It is old, but the criticals have been replaced (extra battery, newer fridge, awning, floor), etc.
Sure, I too would love to upgrade, but for the money it works for me!
I would love to find someone who has found a good deal on captains chairs for the passenger side -- would just give me an extra seat once we are settled.
Would also like a good deal on recliners, swivel chairs -- I have the party model -- no couch, just two swivel chair with a bar table between.
We have re-uphostered the cushioned, painted, etc; but the only engine item was an exhaust system and muffler. Way to go to Bucky's Transmission shop.


-- 1995 27' Tioga Montara Quad Bunk --


Posted By: mekola on 08/26/04 02:55pm

We have a '78 Dodge Sportsman Renaissance. I have sewed new covers for the cushions, made valances, put in shades, took out all orange shag carpet, put in black and white vinyl tiles, replaced the wallboard in the bathroom and kitchen area, new curtains in bunk area, replaced the dinette with custom built dog kennels that have seats on them (dogs won't be in them that much), took foam mattress out of bunk and bought an airmattress with sleeping bag that attaches to it for the bunk, rebuilt cabinets where refrigerator goes and have painted everything that needs painted. Now on to the other parts of this project...


1982 Starcraft Popup or a 1979 Dodge Renaissance Sportsman loaded with:
DH and I along with 2 kids and 3 mini schnauzers,
pulling a 16ft. trailer loaded with:
Honda 450S
Yamaha Grizzly 660
Polaris Scrambler 400 4x4
Honda 300 4x4
climbatv



Posted By: vacilando1105 on 08/26/04 10:33pm

Just came across the RV.Net site tonight.

I just bought a 1977 Dodge 360 Class C Minnie Winnie Lindy. The engine was recently rebuilt 12,000 miles ago. Chasis has 102,000 miles on it. It's a 19'. The Lindy has a lot of pep and goes really fast on the freeway.

I am looking for a manual on how all the appliances, etc. works since I am a newbie on owning an RV. I just picked up a book "RV for Dummies" and it probably will get me through the nuts and bolts of grey tanks and black tanks. I figure if the Lindy has made it since 1977 it can make it through a Newbie like me.

This Dodge 360 really cooks!


Posted By: knicka on 08/26/04 11:34pm

Just went out and checked, ours is a 18' Californian, built 9-1970. Tradesman 300. Lots of miles, several owners. Was given to me by a friend who said it needed a new engine. He had driven it home to strip for parts but thought there were a few more miles left on it. He had just driven it 30 miles to his home, with his head out the window because of the fumes, and he said the bottom of the 318 was coming apart, or so it sounded, and no oil pressure. I crawled underneath the front when he started it up for me. The fuel pump was squirting gas right on the exhaust manifold, and it sounded like the rods were about to come out the side of the block! After that, when I checked the oil level, the crankcase was full of gasoline. The fuel pump diaphram had ruptured and had filled the block with fuel. I put on a new (used) fuel pump and then we drained the pan, put in 4 quarts of oil, and started it back up. Oil pressure came up, engine quietened down, and I drove it home. Two weeks later we took it on a 200 mile round trip to Greyland, WA. (South of Aberdeen, on the coast) and had a great time... We are glad our friend is still with us, still wondering why that thing didn't blow and burn up. Oh, just before we got to Greyland, one of our daughters asked what a muffler looked like, just after the thump, and Blaaaaaap noise/roar rose up from under the floorboards. She saw it skid off into a field, as cars were backing off from our rear... What an adventure! Loved it


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 08/27/04 09:34am

Hello and welcome to you, 79RoadRanger, Mekola, Vacilando
and Knicka!!!


It's great to hear from you all!!! And Knicka, so far you take
the honor of having the oldest Dodge rig here so far- 09/70!!!
34 years young and still ripping up the road!!! Mine comes in
second- 08/72...

We are a unique group of RV owners- our vehicles are true "vintage"
rigs, built back in a time when metal was thicker, motors were stouter
and there was a true sense of pride and craftsmanship built in to every last rig.
This is why they are still going, and will be for a long time!

Because of what they are, and their age, we should band together and
support each other's efforts- like a special interest group. Not only
for advice but helping each other locate parts or services. I would
be honored to know that I helped someone keep their A-Dodge-io on the
highway by something I did or shared with them. If someone needs
a part, like 79RoadRanger was looking for captains chairs
(come to think of it I could stand a pair too), and Vacilando needed owners manuals for appliances, let's pool our efforts and try to help!
Maybe we can cook up a "wish list" of items we can help each other find at the best price. Or maybe we can lend a hand by helping someone fix a problem, like you name it- we've probably been there done that on some things, or we know of an honest, reputable someone who can.

We are becoming mighty upon the earth... hee hee... I read somewhere
that a group of less than a hundred determined former citizens of Great Britain formed what is now the greatest nation in this world-
the United States of America. And we're driving our own little bit of Americana... think about it...

It's easier to hang together than it is to hang seperately.

Mark a.k.a. White Knight


Posted By: Grand Slam 79 on 08/27/04 06:13pm

Hi all! I have one of these things, also. Mine is a 1979 24 foot Champion class C, built on a 1978 MB400 Dodge chassis, with the 360 engine. I bought it to pull the wife's horse trailer, and sometimes my enclosed race car trailer. Couldn't see having a newer rig to go to the mud, dust and dirt of horse shows and sprint car races. I really wanted one with a 440 in it, but after 2 years of looking, I never came across a 440 powered class C that I felt the camper part was worth saving. The 360 powered Champion I ended up with has a one piece fiberglass roof and cabover section and seems to have avoided all the water leakage problems that are so common on these machines. I decided I could modify the engine for more power easier than rebuilding a water damaged coach.

I've owned the MH for three years now, and after some pretty extensive modification/repairs, I can report it does what I expected it to do quite well. Since I've owned it, I've pulled the heads and done a valve job, replaced the 2 barrel manifold with a 4 barrel manifold and Thermoquad carb, and replaced the distributor with a 4 barrel version. I've also serviced the transmission, replaced the U joints, and had the pinion bearings in the rear axle replaced. To get the chassis in shape for towing I've had a leaf added to each rear spring, replaced the shocks, added air bag helper springs, had a killer hitch-frame extension structure welded to it, and replaced all six tires. To make the inside nicer, I've replaced the sagging headliner with short pile carpeting and replaced the front seats with junkyard Aerostar mini van seats. Future mods include replacing the carpeted floor with vinyl, for easier clean up, and installing a new, big bore, (like 3") exhaust system. Maybe someday the lower end of the motor will get a rebuild, with new pistons and one of those Mopar stroker crankshafts, to make it a 400 cu. in. engine.

While it's no speed demon, it will tow the horse or race car trailer at 55 to 60 mph on level ground, and it's so nice to have the camper once you're there. I have driven it to the Florida Keys and back from Chicago twice pulling a Hobie 18 catamaran, and found it averages 8.5 mpg at 60 to 65 mph. That's not much worse than the new MH's get. I like Thermoquad carburetors, having had them on other Dodge vehicles, but I admit it's nearly impossible to find anyone who knows how to make them work correctly. You pretty much have to learn to tune them yourself. I've had exhaust headers on vans, and will never put them on the MH, I don't want to deal with the rust out, heat and noise tube headers create. All in all, I'm very satisfied with the machine, and one of the best parts is IT'S PAID FOR!!


Randy Reed
Spring Grove, IL


Posted By: BobJoh on 08/27/04 08:10pm

Yes, Dodge 440-3 (That dash -3 is important in getting parts from NAPA to get the MoHo version instead of automotive.) For example the --3 thermostat is very different than a 440 in a car.) 1976 Coachmen Statesman 25ft actually 26+ft bumper to bumper. M500, 14,000gw Class A with 19.5" wheels. Also had to request special timing chain and sprokets as diff. than two row auto chain and was for racing but same as original extra one and replaced forward cam bearing as was not set deep enough in block so forward edge was multi chipped as it rubbed on cam sprocket. Used 3/4" bolt to pull bearing sleeve in with large washers on it.. and filed a slight low spot in its front edge so oil sprayed on timing chain. Didn't replace with RV cam but now wish I had. With heads off, sprayed WD40 in ports and saw only slight seep so didn't do valve job. Old main bearing had 74 stamped on backing and had crank reground -.010 as had one bad rod throw and had rods reground round as my brother said if bearing shells fall out easily on rod removeal the big end of the rod had been pounded by detonation and need to regrind circle to get good bearing shell pinch. Cyl walls looked OK and didnot have to use ridge reamer as only slight burr at top of ring travel. Had hard time finding rod bearing shells with that little notch for oil to squirt on cam and cyl walls thru grove in rod caps. Dodge Parts said not needed with the good oils we have now. Replaced all freeze plugs, new water pump, new fuel pump and had deep pan with HiVol oil pump with thick rotorgears. They said don't use HiVol oil pump with standard pan as may pump dry before it runs back down from valve covers. New fan clutch, new eng. and trans mounts, all new hoses and fuel inline filter. New both resistors in ignition and Accel Super coil RV9cl plugs replacing RV12 champs as too hot may have caused the pinging. MOPAR cast alum valve covers to be ridged enough to prevent leaks... ONe head wasn't true where gaskets seat and leaked badly on first test drive.. had to grind that raise ridge down some.. ground freehand what oily rag around valves to catch grindings. Also had to grind off bottom wide foot of valve cover to allow it to seat more over against the exhaust manifold as was half a bolt hole missaligned. Both exhause castings were warped and ground eyeball true with bench grinder and straight edge and now holds gaskets OK. Used double washers under all exhaust stud nuts to allow 'cushion' for heat expansion. Torqued them three different times but not too tight, to absorb gasket crush during each test run and heat soak. Original hot oil pressure was 4psi hot idle now is 15psi and hot run went from below 40 to 68-71 psi and no rod knock. This engine had 32,000 original miles.. had been in storage for 12 years. Does not overheat, and pulls the grapevine I 5 hills well at 40-45mph in second same going up to Big Bear. Did all the work with block in place and trans moved back and radiator removed. Welded up dual mufflers and crossover 2 1/2" pipes and exit forward of rear duals. Have dryer duct from above radiator to feed cool inpact air to carb. air cleaner. Happy to run at 62-64 mph and at times run 70mph to keep up with rushhour traffic in LA. 6-7Mpg but does use oil as I didn't replace the rings. Disconected cruise control box and run speedo right to transmission. Using Ford 'F'fluid in 727A transmission and has large trany oil cooler. Forward dinette seat flips forward or back or both go flat for twin bed and pulldown above driver and two cabinet beds above mid rig twin beds gives sleeping for eight if half are kids and has eight seat belts, driver plus four in dinete facing forward and two plus one sidewise on twin beds. Rear bath with five foot tub and shower. I took out the bad LP burner and just have a HotRod in water tank. 4kva Koller and AC on top for cooling enroute. 30+30+30 fresh and black and grey with 45gal fuel. With the fix to engine and all new tires and some roof leaks repaired it is a great pratical road warrior. Grandkids and dogs and fish and sand and spills and etc. all OK.


BobJoh


Posted By: 79roadranger on 08/30/04 12:54pm

Maybe the moderators will set up a forum for "CLASSIC rvs"?
"It's not old...it's a classic!"


Posted By: munkalido on 08/31/04 01:53pm

We recently purchased a 1976 Beaver Monterey built on a Dodge Sportsman with a 440. I know the chassis is a one tone but don't know if it's a b300 or what...

Repairs / upgrades so far:

Water heater
Water pump (5.7 gpm, now can take a real shower when not on city water!!)
exhaust (3" s/s, out in front of rear wheels)
front brakes
elec.fuel pump
carburetor (edelbrock)
complete tune up
upgraded the electrical to mopar performance
super coil
sun tachometer (from the 70's as well!)

It runs well but I have to re-route the fuel line as vapor lock has become a problem since replacing the carburetor (even with an elec.fuel pump!). The line now runs along the intake manifold (the old thermoquad had the fuel intake in the rear and the edelbrock is in the front).

My family loves it, the kids call it "The Beav". We've been out in it about 10 times. So far this summer we've been away in the Beav more than we've been home. It's our first MH and are probably going to buy a motorcycle and quad for next year to take with us.

I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have done most of the work myself. It's the first Dodge I've owned and so far are happy with it. I'm finding all sorts of little things wrong that the previous 3 owners have done and are fixing them.

It's all fun and we're making many memories for our kids who are 3 and 6. We keep it pretty stocked with most everything and it takes only about an hour to get on the road for a trip. While tent camping it would take most of a day!


Posted By: Tak on 09/06/04 06:16pm

My Tennant has a 64 Travco. 440 motor, "The orginal 318 replaced in 1977" and a modified differential. This is a Travco that can get up and MOVE!

http://www.uncia.com/nrasser/64travco/bus2.jpg
http://www.uncia.com/nrasser/64travco/bus3.jpg
http://www.uncia.com/nrasser/64travco/bus4.jpg
http://www.uncia.com/nrasser/64travco/bus5.jpg
http://www.uncia.com/nrasser/64travco/bus6.jpg

I've road Tripped in it, its an amazing thing.......

When its parked Next to mine, My little Toyota based Class C 1991 Warrior looks like a toy........

http://polaris.uncia.com/danawolfe/RV.JPG

"Taken when I picked it up in AZ this summer"


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 09/15/04 12:42am

Wow, found this forum while doing a google search. After 30 some odd years of tenting it I finally bought a MH. Picked up a 1973 Dodge Coachmen Elite 28' (including bumpers and hitch). Needs some cosmetic work done. Motor and chassis look excellent. Powered by a 440, with hedman stainless steel headers and exhaust, 3 1/2" tubes. Sat in a guys side yard for 5 years, daughter used it for a play house. Dumped 5 gal gas into tank, 1/4 cup down carb, threw an old interstate battery into it and the girl fired and ran on the 5th roll of the engine!!! The only thing mechanically wrong is I have to put a new front hydro vac on. Front discs won't release.

Didn't want anything expensive, because my wife and I prefer woods camping over campground camping. Have been out with it twice. Sure is nice not living out of coolers and bags!!! We called it the "Chuck Wagon" because of my open fire cooking hobby. Looking forward to exchanging Q&A's with you folks on needed info.


Here comes the "Chuck Wagon"


Posted By: Koldei on 09/15/04 12:53am

it aint a "C" but.....
(see below)


1972 Rectrans Discoverer25R
Dodge M300 Chassis w/413



Posted By: whiteknight001 on 09/22/04 08:39am

Hello Grand Slam 79, munkalido, Koldei and BobJoh!


Welcome to the Vintage thread here at RVNet! Koldei,
you've got one wild looking rig there! Would love to
see some more pix of that one!

Well folks, 79RoadRanger raised the question:

Posted By: 79roadranger on 8/30/2004 12:54pm

Maybe the moderators will set up a forum for "CLASSIC rvs"?
"It's not old...it's a classic!"

So, whattya all say? I for one will contact the RVNet forum
admins and moderators and ask... but I'd like for all of you
to chime in with your opinions- If there were a forum for us,
what would we consider? I'd venture to say all of us here are
Mopar folk, which means we are even more united in purpose over
a broader RV model base than other driveline manufacturers.

But I wouldn't want to leave someone out if they had a Chevy or
Ford based RV too... I think our main requirement should be:

Our RV's are at least 10 years old.
Paid for or nearly so.
Mechanical and maintenance done as much as possible by owner.
A willingness to share what we know, and a desire to help others
interested in older RV's.
Possibly later, a desire to grow into a realtime, offline group
that exists to meet, share and help its members in various ways.

So, if you guys would like to have a forum unto ourselves, here's
the opportunity- post to this thread and let the admins and mods
see how serious we are. We represent a very viable sector of the RV
market, and one rich in history as well. Now is our time to step
forward and shine!

Let's do it!

your fellow Classic RV nut,

Mark


Posted By: tkahike on 09/22/04 09:13am

I'm all for it. It should be opened up to anything older then 15 years. That brings things into the late 80's for models. I think a lot of us have purchased these units used. So there is always a little guess work involved. I've learned a lot from these forums.

Tkahike


Posted By: Koldei on 09/22/04 10:40am

I'd also love to see a little corner for to offer help and support.
I understand that we all also fit into (at least) one of the other
categories. but when spread out like that it's hard to have
vintage/classic solidarity.

I do think there is room for a community of classic owner's (and
those who have been there, or will be there.

I wave to every Rv/camper i see, but the older ones that have wear...
OOPS i mean "character" get the thumbs up!


this has been brought up before:


"re-newing" older motor homes
Older Class A Motorhome photos
How many owners of older rigs are here?




g'day
Robert


Posted By: munkalido on 09/22/04 11:14am

I like the idea of a "classic" section for all the reasons already mentioned. I don't have the dealer/service issues, I am mostly on my own when it comes to fixing/repairing and maintaining my MH. To have a forum with like minded people owning the same thing with similar issues seems great.


Posted By: mekola on 09/22/04 11:32am

I too would like to see a forum for classic RV's. Considering that we are in the process of remodeling ours, I am sure that this will be very beneficial to us as well as others.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 09/22/04 12:43pm

I would love a "Classic" forum as well, that would really be helpful when doing remodel projects for our 1978 Tioga. This year we replaced tires, the water pump to the radiator, all the belts, the truck battery, & the alternator was replaced just before we got it. We also bought allot of stuff for camping.

We wouldn't be taking it out again until next spring, we will be spending time working on it:

Change all fluids and filters, check all the belts and hoses, redo the upholstery on the side dinnette(and yes, we want it done in 70's style!), and we would like to redo the insulation in the cab(my husband complains of hot feet!). We also need to replace the clock that came with it(daughter broke it!), and are getting one of those Tote Along Tanks for next year, as there are no sewer hookups where we camp.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 09/23/04 08:33am

hey mun, check the website of the brand of MH you have. They may have a listing for manuals. I found one for my 73 on coachmans website still available. took the guesswork out of a lot of things for me, especially being a first time owner.


Posted By: Koldei on 09/23/04 11:04am

FWIW;

I had e-mailed to forum@rv.net
and received as a reply
***
At this time, we are not planning to add any new forums. However, I will forward your request to Admin to be considered when we do add new forums.
*****


Posted By: VAIrishGrl on 09/23/04 05:37pm

I am in Virginia Beach, VA, and thinking of buying a 1972 DodgeXplorer sight unseen photos only). I am having difficulty trying to determine how to offer a fair price as the seller knows (or pretends to know) nothing. I am basically buying the frame as the engine does not run. I am trying to figure out how much it will cost to have it transported @ 600 miles and the best way to do so. I don't know if the (Onan propane) generator works and he does not know the model number (he thinks it is original) so that I can get a price on repairing/replacing if that is necessary. He indicates that it has a full bathroom...shower, sink, toilet; holding tanks for fresh water (28 gal) and 24 gal for waste water; an interior airconditioner in the rear bdrm., 11,000 BTU gas furnace, Thetford Electra Magic Stool recirculating toilet, and a Norcold 3 way refrigerator. I have only his word and the small photos to verify these facts. Does anyone know if this is the standard equipment. I tried to get info from Onan in case I need to replace the generator and need the dimensions to know if that is feasible. I LOVE THE LOOK 7 SIZE OF THIS VAN!!! It is exactly the right size for an adventurous 'fifty something' single woman and her two Chinese SharPei. I would completely refurbish everything to my taste and add a microwave and tv/dvd/cd player and speakers. Would the original generator (should it work) support those items? Is $2300.00 a fair price (not including shipping) for a frame in great shape..no rust nor damage? HELP!!! All input appreciated as I have to act quickly ) or lose my chance. I have looked for years for a Travco 21 ft, and this is a similar set up. I want to just jump on it, but need to buy wisely. Any info or advice. I love this site. Thanks P.S. In case I decide against this motorhome-any leads close to VA for something comparably sized. I would love to park in my garage.


Posted By: munkalido on 09/23/04 07:48pm

Quote:

hey mun, check the website of the brand of MH you have. They may have a listing for manuals. I found one for my 73 on coachmans website still available. took the guesswork out of a lot of things for me, especially being a first time owner.


I did contact the MFG of my coach and they sent me a generic manual. I'm now acquiring manuals for the equipment on the coach (refr, water heater, etc...) and have purchased a Chilton's for the chassis. I finally figured I have an MB400 van!

It's a lot of fun tearing apart something, making it better and then taking the family out to enjoy it. There's not much that can go wrong with this coach that I can't fix myself. With the age (28 y/o) all the surprises are worked out of it and I don't have to worry about emissions when I tweak the engine.

In our fist 3 months we've put over 2K on it already! Still have at least one more trip this year to do (this weekend), the Oregon Coast.


Posted By: munkalido on 09/23/04 07:52pm

VAIrish, $2300 seems like a lot to me for a rig from 1972 which isn't running. Were I you and want it as much as you seem, I would fly there and check it out. Or find someone on these boards who lives close to it and politely make a request to them to go check it out and verify what works and revert to you their findings....


Posted By: VAIrishGrl on 09/24/04 09:59am

Thanks for the suggestion, and I had reached the same conclusion myself. The man selling the Dodge was not at all forthcoming with info and would not let me send someone over to examine the van, so needless to say I decided to forget trying to buy it. I want something that will fit in my garage, and that one would. It was 19 feet long and the height of a standard van. I live in a very private little spot with only 4 other homes and lake and trees all around us. I respect my neighbors love of the natural views and would not want to park a camper in my yard. I also liked the fact that it would be easy for me to drive, park, etc. Oh well. That door was closed, maybe a window will open. At least I found this site and it will help to educate me.

Thanks again. Cayce


Posted By: lamont on 09/24/04 11:35am

I still have a 77 Dodge class C sportsman-Mobile Traveler with a 360 on the road---
add me to the list---


1998 Bounder 34'
Lifetime Good Sam
Saturn SW2
navy lifer
Viginia


Posted By: 79roadranger on 09/24/04 03:21pm

I am 79roadranger and I agree with the 10 year old age limit for a "classic" rv site. DOn't know that the "paid for" is important, but I would hope with the older ones that they are paid for -- we need our money to fancy 'em up (notice I didn't say FIX 'em up). Moderators, what do you think?


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 09/24/04 07:37pm

Well folks,

No matter whether we have a forum just for us or not,
we can keep this thread alive, and add each other to
our "Buddy List" for Private Messages (PM's). And hello
and welcome Cayce and Lamont- glad you're here. Cayce, don't
give up yet. There are many of these venerable old rigs out
there and if I, or anyone of us, can be of help to you in
finding one, let us know what you need and we'll do our best!
Everyone here is very welcome to PM or email me through the
forum, I'll try to respond asap! Will happily share or locate
stuff too.

Y'know, if we keep this thing going, they might think we've got a movement goin' on...After all there's more than two of us!
Maybe then, a new forum will pop open. There's a lot that can be
said for persistance. As long as folks keep posting I'll reply and help however I can! Thanks for your posting here, it means a lot
to me 'cause I really believe in what we're doing. RVing on our own
terms, in vintage rigs we maintain and make our own. How unique is
that?

Pretty darn unique, I'd say. Until later, like Hues Corporation "Rock
The Boat"- rock on wit' yo bad self and happy trails!!! Love that
burnt orange shag- groovy, man...

the redneck in the next lane over...grinning hugely

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: Jay -n- Lori on 09/25/04 12:06am

I just purchased a "new" one in August to replace my "old" one. I currently have a '77 Pace Arrow on the Dodge M400 frame with a 440 engine. In my opinion, it's the best MH i've ever been in. My old one was a Sportsman on the B300 frame with the 318 motor. I loved that old girl but we just outgrew it

Having a place like this to discuss things with other owner's of the same kind is invaluable. Fortunately, before I knew this place existed, I had a friend that used to sell and service these things when they were NEW so he was able to help with just about anything I needed to know including OE part numbers, and what would have been installed originally by the coach manufacturer. He has a ton of paperwork on these things, and I will be happy to share any info I have and ask him if I don't have it.

These were built like a motorhome should be built so let's keep them on the road!!!

Jay


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 09/25/04 08:13am

Hey Jay -n- Lori!! Welcome!!

I'm glad you're here! Jay, you may wind up being the
Forum Archivist- in fact, it'd (!) be interesting to
see just how much info all of us could pool together...
and your old B300- dang bud, I wish I'd known about
you lettin' it go- we could've found a home for it
among our ranks! Cayce aka VAIrishGrl was looking for one.
I'da sent her your way, man!

Stick with us close- there's a few more surprises to come,
and some of the best association to be had on the 'Net!!!
BTW if you get a chance to check out the Roll Call post
here in Class C, hang a shingle and let us know you're in
our l'il convoy hee hee!

This is more than Class A,B or C- this is Vintage/Classic!
Once again Jay and Lori, welcome and please stick around.
It only gets better!

your l'il fat buddy

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: EdgarTheBear on 09/25/04 10:08am

WhiteKnight001 : Glad to read that our Dodge-based Thread has gotten such a following. My 1977 Dodge "MB300" Class C 24-footer has been parked in storage for a while, awaiting my rebuilding of the 440. I would sure like to hear from other folk, who have done repair/rebuild on the majestic "RB" Block 413/440 engines.


Edgar


Posted By: grousehunter 61 on 09/25/04 10:34pm

Our coach is a 1974 Dodge Fireball, 24'. 360 motor. We replaced all the carpet. reupholstered the couch, replaced the mattress, rewired the lights, rebuilt the motor, trans, rebuilt the carb, window dressing etc. We get 13mpg on the road at 55 mph.
It's called the party model as it is open all the way back, makes it look a lot larger then it is.




Rodger & Teri

1985 Sportcoach / crosscountry
1983 Camaro / 1971 Chevy 4x4
chessie's named sonny & choc and a red setter named star
http://sportcoach.blogspot.com/



Posted By: munkalido on 09/27/04 03:17pm

I found mine is a MB400. Anyone have any idea what the differences are between an MB400, M400, B300, etc...?

My MB400, Sportsman is a 1976 Beaver Coach, 24' Monterey model. Sleeps 4 adults (two over cab, 2 on converted dinette). There are two lounge chairs next to the dinette.

I've replaced the front brakes, water heater and pump (5.7), carburetor, coil, wires, exhaust and a few tune up items.

I was wondering if there are headers for these and are they worth it? My exhaust manifold has a pin leak in it and I'm afraid they are on their last leg. I've been told that the 440 can really benefit from headers and free flowing exhaust.

I'm also contemplating putting a new intake on it. Is this worth it?

I have so many ideas and projects in mind I'm going to create a matrix in Accel and list them by priority, cost, effort and efficiency gained (if any). It will be fun bouncing these projects off you folks here on this board and help with direction.


Posted By: Jay -n- Lori on 09/27/04 08:50pm

Munkalido,

The difference between the B300 and the M300, M400, and M500 is pretty simple, the B300 is a van frame, class C type. The M300,400,& 500 are class A frames, I am not sure what the MB300 is.

As far as headers and free flowing exhaust on the 440, I noticed more of a HP improvement over an MPG improvement. I had custom headers built for my 440 and found a remarkable increse in powerbut only gained abou 1-1.5 MPG fuel savings.

Jay


Posted By: lyon1976 on 09/28/04 02:58am

I'm Alicia. My father in-law recently moved a dodge "persuader" into my backyard. I think it's a cute rv and i have never been interested in these things until now. I have searched high and low on the internet for any info about dodge rv;s and can't find a single thing. I would love to convince my husband to repair the vehicle but we can't afford to much at one time. Anyways, the only thing even close is a damon? escaper model. I saw the interior pics and it looks exactly like it! I think I was seeing things but i would love any help. The condition is grim. The only good thing about this rv is that it RUNS! the interior is pretty beaten up and all the windoww have been busted by kids etc. i haven't the courage yet to climb the rickety ladder to look in the roof box. i hope you're happy to hear there's one more out there.
Thanks, Alicia.


Posted By: hurseygirl on 09/28/04 04:33am

we have a 76 champion class c 20ft motorhome on a dodge sportsman chasis.It was completely restored inside and out when we bought it.Man who redid it did a great job.we haven't used her as much as we thought we would .just having trouble finding the time.It has a 360.Not sure what kind of gas mileage.Would be interested in finding out what a average mpg is for a rig of this kind.


Posted By: tkahike on 09/28/04 06:36am

Hursygirl I'm running close to yours, and I get about 8-10mpg depending on load and weather.


Posted By: EdgarTheBear on 09/28/04 09:22am

As for the Letter Designation of Dodge Based MotorHomes, here is what the Factory Official Dodge Service Manual says : B300 can be a Van, a "Wagon", a "Maxi-Van",or a Maxi-Wagon".
MB300 is a "Front Section", which is the Incomplete "Van Chassis" that is purchased by the Varied Coach Builders, from which they produce the finished Class C Motorhome.
A CB300 is a Category for Chassis that are destined to become the "Ryder" or "U-Haul" TYPE of Hauling Truck with a rectangular "Box".
(In Later Years, the "300" is Re-named to be "350".)


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 09/29/04 09:13am

Hello EdgarTheBear, Grousehunter61,lyon1976 and Hurseygirl!

And Welcome!!! Edgar, you and I share a common thing- my
tribal name is Standing Bear. And we are becoming numerous.
All I can say guys and gals is "Don't stop now!!!" And thanks
Edgar for the post on the various chassis designations. We need
more guys like you! Keep it coming, man!

Alicia, stick around, ask questions, and get your husband
online, maybe even your father in law too. Me and my wife
are working on our 1972 MB300 based 20' Mobile Traveler as we go,
and I for one would be happy to help you guys locate stuff
for your RV, if you decide to go that route. Either way, I'm
happy you're here.

Rodger and Teri- I'd love to see some pix of that Fireball!
Do you have some in a gallery? Turn 'em loose on us!! And
that goes for you too Hurseygirl- I'd love to see your rig!

We'll either get them to pop open a forum for us or I'll start one.
Once again, welcome and please, stick around, post and let's keep
rolling here. We may be the ONLY group of our kind on the 'Net.
Think about it...

your greasy compadre...

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: munkalido on 09/29/04 03:04pm

Has anyone tried to calibrate their own speedo? Mine is all over at low speed, bouncing between zero and 20... and about 7-10 miles high when doing 60 (says 69) and gets worse the faster I go. I keep a GPS handheld with me when I drive to know what the facts are:>


Posted By: Grand Slam 79 on 09/29/04 04:54pm

The speedo needle bouncing all over the place is probably caused by a dry and/or bad speedometer cable. I'd try lubing your existing cable first, with that dry, graphite powder stuff. You disconnect the cable from the speedo head, pull the inner cable out, coat it with the lube, and slide it back in. It's usually the upper cable, from the cruise control unit to the speedo head that gets sticky, but it could also be the cable from the trans to the cruise control. Does the cruise work? If it does, the lower cable is not the problem. See if that solves the problem, or at least makes it better. If it helps but doesn't fix the problem, you could try replacing the cable. I kinda save that as a last resort, 'cause getting the right replacement cable seems almost impossible.

If lubing the cables doesn't help at all, then the speedo head must be going south. Trying to find one of those for an old Dodge will be a real treat. I'd look in junkyards that specialize in old Mopar parts. (Maybe on the internet, if there's nothing locally.) Here in Chicago, the normal junkyards won't have anything that old. Obviously, the speedo for a Dodge class B or C MH will be the same as one for a van.


Posted By: grousehunter 61 on 09/29/04 09:20pm

[url=http://groups.msn.com/MotorHomeRefurbishorRestoration/shoebox.msnw] Hope this will get you to some photos of the Fireball, go to pictures , our is the 5th one down.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Chicknnhead on 09/30/04 07:37am

I'm looking at buying myself a 76 dodge 360v8 class C
i posted my questions the begining RV section, so i won't post them again here, but this site and especially this thread is great
hope to talk to you more as i actually purchase the RV
which hopefully will be this weekend
thanks
Mick


Posted By: Pollyfire on 09/30/04 10:07am

Hello Class C'ers. My husband and I own a 1971 Dodge Fireball that is 20 feet long. We have recently discovered that at one time it had a fire. It needs a lot of love and care(not to mention replacing things.)We would really appreciate all the tips and hints you all can give us. I have had no luck with finding an owners manual anywhere. Not much info on Fireballs at all. Please help.Thanks.


Posted By: grousehunter 61 on 09/30/04 04:27pm

Pollyfire, What are you looking for? I have some of the manuals that went with my 74. Where was your coach made? Most were made in Boise Idaho. PM me with any questions.

Rodger


Posted By: Cdog on 10/01/04 09:50am

The subject of having a forum just for restoration of old motorhomes is intriging. The only problem I see would be keeping things active. It might be best to have a section on older motorhomes and travel trailers. Something like Restoration Projects, or RVing Projects.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/02/04 08:00am

Hello Chicknnhead and Pollyfire!

And Welcome! I'm glad you're here! Grousehunter, those pix
of the Fireball look great! I know you must be proud. I hope
mine will look half as good- and the 1959/1958 boat/motor
pair was sharp too! And thanx for your offer to help Pollyfire
with the other Fireball. This is exactly what we are all about.
Most of us can't call a manufacturer or sales rep for our needs.
We have to share resources. So, scan the posts, and if you can
help someone, chime in! You'll definitely get a big Thank You!
from me! As far as a BBS/forum, I'm workin' on it. More later,
film at eleven.

Mark


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 10/03/04 12:06am

Well I just realized that I am a Class A motorhomer with my purchase (first time owner). I hope you all don't sanction me because of that!!! This thread is great!! The first time I read through everything after being directed here by Google, I thought "wow just what I'm looking for". Even though I don't have a Class C. I hope you will all let me participate with the discussions, just for the simple fact that I am redoing an inexpensive purchase. Actually I thought the thread was missing an "I", ClassIc Dodge Motorhomes

Also if anyone may be interested, there is a Class C for sale in my area for $2000. I have not looked at it, but I would guess it is based on a Dodge Tradesman van type frame. Guessing it is about 16 to 18 foot. If anyone is interested I can do some digital photos for you.

Okay now for an opinion on my deranged inventive ideas!!! Someone prior to me piped in a heater core to the furnace from the engine radiator. I was thinking, if I disconnected the lines to the furnace heater core and put some quick disconnects, could I use an outside wood fired water heater to supply heat to the MH? I have in the past done winter camping in a tent in my area and I am planning to do the same in the "new" MH. As you can see by my location, we do set the Nation low for temps in the winter. I would also need to purchase another two Samoyed Huskys to make it a "three dog night"!!!!!!

Also to Edgarthe bear, you seem to have alot of info on chassis, if I relay the info could you hep me out on my chassis figuration?

Mopar = More Power!!!!!!!


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/03/04 03:42am

Hey Unionguy

No way we'd sanction you- Munkalido has a Class A too.
What we have seen here is mostly class C but what it
all boils down to is this- We own older motorhomes that
are mostly out of the '70's, built by various manufacturers,
some of which are no longer in business. And nearly all of
our RV's are built on the very durable and dependable Dodge
MB van or M series truck chassis. So please, feel welcome
among us- we all own and maintain classic RV's whether they
happen to be A or C class. This makes us a unique group.
While we like the new stuff we prefer to RV on our own terms.

BTW I'm doing something similar to what the previous owner of
your rig did- it's called "hot water" or "hydronic" heating.
The Koby has two heaters- the regular cab unit and a second
floor unit located under the dinette. Some 12 pass. and school
bus B300s came with this option, I removed it from my parts van
and grafted it into the Koby's circulatory system. This gives us
backup heat while running the engine. Do a search under "hydronic
heating" and you'll find a page by a man named Jim Phyphers. He
describes a system I'd like to incorporate in the Koby instead of
a conventional propane-fired furnace. Should keep you nice and
toasty without the fumes. Tried using my Coleman PowerCat catalytic
heater, had some wicked headaches plus you have to crack a window somewhere too. Not good.

The system I'm cooking up will use a 6gal propane/electric water
heater with direct spark ignition and a small 12VDC circulator pump,
two truck heater cores arranged in "A" coil fashion, and a plenum chamber with a variable speed blower, and thermostat control. That
way I'll use the electric hotrod to heat the water when on shore
power, propane if I'm out in the sticks and don't want to fire up
the Onan. Your idea for outside wood heat will work. Just make sure you've got a good bed of coals for the night,though. Instead of the
water heater just substitute the wood heat unit. Much better especially if you're gonna be somewhere for a while!

This is why we need a forum. We're doing stuff that could not
be done without great expense to a new RV, and some of this stuff
is really quite ingenious. Has anyone else tried the idea of water
heating? If it works up in the cab, it might be good. Dive in folks.
Lets hear some opinions on this.

Mark


Posted By: Nannycmc on 10/03/04 08:08pm

Glad to find this post. I just was given a 1977 Dodge 22' Motor Home three days ago. I do not know a whole lot. It looks perfect inside no wear anywhere. Sat in a barn for years has 50K miles and has faded due to sun while it was outside its last 4 years. I have drove it and find nothing wrong except leak around roof vent. Its rooted wood holding up the vent. Very little rust underneath. Ordered a new owners and shop manuals yesterday. I know nothing about RV'ng. Im a single Christain female who hopes to be on the road the day after Christmas for the rest of the winter. I have it all to learn from scratch so any advise on what to buy, learn from, do, not do, consider as a must, will help. $$$ budget is a major ???? How much, for what, and what to pack ect. ect. I have to find someone who knows how to get it ready to go, then how to hook up, and how to unhook. Thanks, NAnnycmc


Posted By: EdgarTheBear on 10/03/04 09:30pm

The Dodge Van-based MH's called "Class C" are the Subject of our attention to Engines V-8 (273/318/360/400/413/440), and Mostly Dual-Wheel Rear Axle chassis, with a A-727 "Loadflite" Version of the "Torkflite" Chrysler Automatic Transmission. Of course, there is a Heavier Frame that is suitable for the "Class A" Dodge-based MH's. Many of the components of the Drivetrain, including Brakes, Engine,and Electrical Systems are shared between the various Models.
I have been studying the possible Upgrades for much of the Standard Equipment applicable to Dodge MH's. For example, I have developed a Cooling System for the front Disc Brake Rotors, when the benefits of air-cooling are compromised by operating in Slow Traffic. I have also developed a Super Heavy-Duty Back-Up Lighting System, for those situations After Dark.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/04/04 05:31am

Hello Nannycmc and welcome!

Stick around and keep asking questions- we'll help all we can!
Seems the first order of business is to get the roof leak fixed.
Can you get to the inside of it and remove as much rotted material and wood as you can? Then it's not so hard to fix. And with all the
old stuff out of the way you can use a garden hose and watch to see where it's coming in at. Work for sure but not hard. Just "labor intensive". Besides, you may decide to change a few things while
you do the repair. There is a fella named Ripsaw in our posts that
is redoing the whole interior of his rig, custom cabinets and all.
I'll PM him and ask his help. And anyone else here- if you've had to do repairs like this, chime in and help; I thank you in advance.

The rest is pretty straightforward. Make sure to check your engine
and drivetrain, change fluids, belts and hoses as the situation demands, have your plumbing and appliances checked for possible
leaks. Just go through and make sure that things are working like
they should. If you can get help from the former owners this is very
good too. They might be able to give you a lot of insight on how they
used the vehicle too. Sounds like you have something really good.

Once again, welcome to our little corner of Cyberspace. Stick around.
This can be a lot of fun.

Mark


Posted By: Chicknnhead on 10/04/04 10:18am

Well i bought a 1976 dodge brougham(sp?) 21 foot yesterday
pretty nice, now i need help getting some parts, it needs tires bad
looks like they are 8X16.5, can i get any bigger, what is the best brand?
i have a ton of question so i can take this in another thread if better or exchange emails with someone, mick@roseint.com
thanks and i look forward to the fun we are going to have
Mick


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/05/04 10:17pm

Hey Mick

Mine were the 8.00 X 16.5 too, went to 9.75 X
16.5 with no problems. Check on both sizes
through large chains, mine were Cooper brand.
Not bad for a heavy truck tire. While you're
at it check out your wheels for rust/corrosion
and trueness. I opted for a pulloff set of
stock steel wheels from a Dodge dealer when a
buyer wanted mags on his new Dually. If they are
OK, then a good cleaning and some paint will make
them look new. Stick with us, it'll come together.

your fellow old RV nut

Mark


Posted By: DUD on 10/08/04 03:09pm

I have a 1972 Dodge B300 Chassis with a 20' Tioga Body on it. I bought it in January, used it twice this year. I will spend this winter doing some remodeling. It has some Iowa rust in Drivers door, but found replacement for $50.00. Probably going to swap seats out of the van the door came off also. It cranks from the seat, and it's mine. Bill


Posted By: grousehunter 61 on 10/20/04 03:36pm

Pollyfire, You still with us? I sent you a PM but haven't heard back from you.

Rodger


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/24/04 11:18pm

Hey Dud

Where is Etowah? Welcome here, man! Mine cranks from the seat and it's paid for too.

WhiteKnight


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 10/25/04 05:58am

Keep your eyes open, folks. Something's coming
down the pike- check your PM's for one from me!

Mark


Posted By: Koldei on 10/28/04 09:22pm

so... I'm looking into getting a grill/brush guard. I'm under the assumption that my front bumper/frame is the same as any circa 1972 1 ton mopar.. any ideas where i might look? (when did the styles change, btw ??) [on edit looks like 68-80 1 tons were the same] thanks Robert

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* This post was edited 10/29/04 09:38am by Koldei *


Posted By: Pollyfire on 10/29/04 06:58am

Hello grousehunter 61, Yes we are still here. Ive been under the weather.I will be writing you back soon. Thanks Pollyfire


Posted By: DUD on 10/29/04 05:36pm

Etowah is about 50 miles from Memphis, mostly rural delta flat land. Bill


Posted By: Mrducks on 11/06/04 09:33am

Howdy all,

I recently bought a 1976 Dodge Explorer, 21', 360, B300. Seems I got lucky on the appliances, the guy said he didn't know if they worked so I assumed the worst. To my surprise I was able to get everything working, water heater, roof air and heat, furnace with wall thermostat, Fridge - gas and elec, water pump, range, all lights, etc. The toilet valve leaks while filling, at $35. (lot of money for a plastic valve) I may replace the whole unit. So far it looks like he was one of those rare people - an honest man. It sat for 2 years without use and smokes unburned gas. I haven't changed the plugs and wires yet, am hoping that and timing does the trick. Any other suggestions? No generator, (missing) so I'll be looking for an inverter for now. The interior is in amazing shape, all cabinets and counter tops are perfect. They took out the orange shag and put in blue Berber, UGH. All in all it is a well planed layout with plenty of room for a guy and his dog. Anyway, I'm sure you all know where I coming from, I'm excited, and pleased to find this site. Whiteknight, I see your in OK, are you far from Tulsa, I'm behind the mall at 41st and Yale?

-Dave


Harry, Fido and MrDucks
Harry - My 20lb Pom and the best darn dog in the world
Fido - My cosmetically challenged 1976 Dodge Explorer, 21 ft. class C
Mrducks - That's me...Dave

" If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went."
- Will Rogers



Posted By: lenrough on 11/07/04 05:58pm

Whoo hoo! Others who know the thrills and agonies of owning a "classic" MH.

1981 Executive Industries Pronto 25' Class A, M400 chassis, 440-3 powered. Since purchasing last February have replaced the fridge (ouch), alternator, house batteries, radiator hoses, water pump, fuel lines (dry rotted and leaking), LP regulator, TV antenna control rod, and control valve for HW heater (fire in the access panel). We've had some engine temperature issues that new radiator caps, thermostat, and a good flush seems to have cured. Needs a new power steering pump. USES a little oil, but doesn't seem to be burning any.

On the up side we've put 13,000+ miles on it at somewhere around 7.5 to 8.5 MPG (Edelbrock carb installed by previous owner). That depends mostly on loaded/unloaded and 55-60 vs 65-70. But hey, when we're in the RV and it's fully loaded, there's really no rush to get anywhere right? An installed electric Holley fuel pump seems to preclude the vapor lock issues I was warned about when driving in and around the Southwest (NM, AZ, NV, and CO).

We keep talking about getting a toy hauler for the motorcycles but I just can't stomach "payments" for 20 years. She's taken us to both coasts from New Mexico and we're gearing up for a trip to Daytona Beach next year for the '05 Bike Week. I'm totally confident in her ability to haul two Harleys "there and back again".

A final thought... At the same time we bought our "classic", our friends bought a brand new Class C Ford powered something or another. It's never parked at home... it's off getting the floor fixed or the leaking gas tank fixed or the improperly installed sinks remounted. They got all that for $50,000.

Long live recycled RVs!!!


It's paid for!


Posted By: broadview50 on 11/08/04 01:29pm

Hello Everyone, We got one of those dinousaurs. 1978 Shasta on a Dodge chassis. WE LOVE IT. We need some help and actually found this site looking for it! We have a coleman furnance that we need lighting instructions for. It is a presidential series. If anyone could help with a website or dealer where we could find this, we sure would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 11/08/04 04:34pm

Hi Mrducks, Lenrough and Broadview50

Great to hear from more folks. Will be PMing you guys soon
about another website for older RV's and the folks that love
'em and use 'em. Stick around. The fun is just beginning.

the loose nut behind the Koby's steering wheel,

Markola aka Whiteknight


Posted By: tocmom on 01/03/05 12:04am

Hello!

I noticied the photo of the Dodge that tkahike has and thought "WOW! That Dodge nose is identical to ours!" We have a 23' Class C Fireball on the Dodge Sportsman. We recently had a complete engine rebuild and are very happy with it.

Has anyone had to replace the furnace? Ours is now DOA and the shop redommended that we not even try to light it, it is a fire hazard. Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.

Glad to have found you folks!

Janet Toc Mom


Janet & John and Toc The Orange Cat)
Toc's Mom
Class C 1976 22' Dodge w/Fireball Coach


Posted By: xcursion on 01/03/05 11:19am

Count me in. It's not a classic yet, but it is a Dodge. I have a new Class C 2005 Xplorer Xcursion 22.5 foot. Dodge 3500, Cummins, 4x4


2005 Xplorer Xcursion 22.5 ft Class C
Cummins diesel
4x4


Posted By: Odd_Couple on 01/03/05 11:51am

Hello everyone. I stubbed my toe on Google and stumbed into this forum. We have a 1972 Class C, "Melmar" 19 feet on a Dodge B300. We bought it about 10 years ago from a family that had used it for family camping. The interior was in great need of refurbishing. We reupholstered all the cushions and changed to carpet from the '70's colors and fabrics. We have since painted the dark cabinets and changed the handles, replaced carpet with linoleum squares, replaced the stove and refrigerator and converted the over the cab bed to a great storage area since we're too old to climb up there to sleep. We recently registered the RV in Mississippi and the clerk suggested "Antique" plates. Now we all match...Richard and I and our RV. We just need to add an S to that plate!


Richard and Sandra


Posted By: Odd_Couple on 01/03/05 12:08pm

It seems I should have responded directly to you whiteknight001. My Spam Can is a 1972 "Melmar" class C on a Dodge B300. Have put way too much money and elbow grease in it but have gotten more out of it. Now that it's an "antique" it will get more respect from now on. Our major problems right now are a gas leak and a fuel gauge that doesn't work. We were told that the gas tank sending unit was no longer available. Any ideas? If anyone knows how to get more than 7-8 miles per gallon out of this engine I would love to know it too. With gas prices as they are, we aren't going very far.


Posted By: munkalido on 01/03/05 05:03pm

Hello Odd_Couple. My 1976 C-class 23' Beaver also had a partially inoperable gas gauge when I purchased it. It read full to half then dropped to empty... not too comforting when getting, as you said, 7-8 mph!

I usually do most of the work my self but this job I gave to the mechanic (didn't have the guts to drop the tank with all the gas in it). He said the sending unit is a wire wrapped rod with a float. The wire had broke half way and for this my gauge only worked full to half. I'm sure yours can be repaired. If you have a generator, make sure they run the three lines coming off the tank properly (1 to the engine, 1 to the gen. 1 as breather) as they ran the breather to my generator (thus no fule to gen.) causing me another trip to the mechanic!!

Kind regards,
Mukalido

* This post was edited 01/03/05 05:20pm by munkalido *


Posted By: RoadRanger_Al on 01/04/05 03:44pm

Hello to Whiteknight and gang!
This is a great forum!
We love our 22' Class C 1978 RoadRanger mfg. by Kit, would much rather have this compared to a new one. It's on a Dodge MB400 chassis, 440 motor and has purred on our two trips to Yosemite/Death Valley and Yellowstone. I keep it in Utah at my brothers place. Have done quite a bit work to make sure all is well... helps that he is an auto mechanic!
Does anyone know of a source for heavy duty radiators? I've searched online and with a parts store with no luck. Radiator differs from a standard Dodge van, both hoses attach on the passengers side. Original (2-row light duty) part number is 4039 032. Motorhome has aftermarket dashboard air conditioning and needs a 4 row core. No luck finding a proper upper hose either.

Thanks,

Alex


Posted By: WannaWinnie on 01/05/05 12:45am

Hi to all of you. I own a 1972 Winnebago Brave on a Dodge M-300 Chassis. I also belong to the Classic Winnebago Motorhome forum (do a google search or I will post a link if needed, believe its www.classicwinnebagomotorhomes.com). The first generation Winnebago's largely used Dodge M-300, 375 and 400 series chassis, so we all have the same mechanical issues etc. The folks on the Winnebgo site have posted a number of topics under the Message Board link which you might find useful.

Note I've considered purchasing a vintage Dodge Champion or Concord rig..but didn't think there was any support out there.

Fuel gage sending unit: I think JC Whitney sells a universal unit for $13....a couple of people have used them with success on the Winnie applications.

R/John


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 01/05/05 06:27am

Hello Tocmom,Xcursion,Odd Couple,RoadRanger Al
and WannaWinnie!

Gee I hope I didn't miss anyone, been working a bunch
here lately. Thanks Munkalido for diving in to help!
I had to check a couple of salvage yards for my sender,
mine was the same as the B series vans, so it wasn't a
hard search. That 4 core might be a bit harder to locate
though. Especially a good used one. Any ideas guys?

I have a site in the forming stage. Email me for the
website address, it is exclusively "oldie". This thread
has been here since 08/15/2004, and has gone from my initial
"Hello, is anybody out there" to eleven pages and at last
count, 104 posts. My site is dedicated exclusively to serving the interests of those like us, no matter what our reasons. Whether
it's because we can say "it's paid for" or we are starting out
in RVing and considering something "entry level", we all have a common thread- our vehicles. And our experiences.

If we put our heads together this can be great- for everyone!

Hope to hear from you all soon,

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: Snakeman on 01/13/05 02:26pm

I just purchased a 1978 Robinhood 24' and it has the 440 Dodge engine.
We are still finding out what does not work like the funace. My wife (Tracy) and I have two teenage girls who love dirtbike riding that is why we got our rig. A friend of mine just got an Establishment 1980 I think, so we will be traveling together out in the desert. This weekend will be our maiden voyage.

John


1978 Robinhood 24' Class C with Dodge 440


Posted By: BT Call Home on 01/18/05 01:45am

This is FANTASTIC! I thought I was a nut case for being so proud of my vintique. 1979 Tioga I believe it's a Dodge. DH takes care of the engine (wish you guys had been here last summer to give him some advice) and all moving parts. I take care of every thing else. Just got this thing last May and I am like an addict. Can't wait for Spring. Don't think I'd up grade even if I could afford to. IF only I could get rid of the squeak in the over cab area I would be in heaven. Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks Sir Knight for starting a wonderful thread. Bernie


Posted By: tyndalelady on 01/19/05 11:52am

I am officially post #109. We just bought (yesterday) a 1973 Fireball on the dodge chassis. I dont know what size engine...lol....havent even raised the hood. One of the older couples here in the RV park were upgrading to a monster 5th wheel and we couldn't stand to see them trade this thing in.

We got it for a steal of $2000 and EVERYTHING works. We took it for a trip around the block last night and she purrs like a kitten.

We do need to eradicate the green shag carpet and work around the avacado appliances and paint the dark wood and get the cigarette smell out and recover the cushions......you get the idea.

This will be too much fun.

Missy


SKP# 83686
2001 Dodge Quadcab 8.0l V10 --- Miles
95 Royals International --- Betty
97 Lance Squirelite 195 --- Tex


Posted By: wooper on 01/19/05 01:59pm

hello there
I just bought a 1977 Dodge Cruise Air 21 footer I think .
dodge 360 motor with 76000k.
seems to be in not bad shape and I drove it home- OVER 900 MILES and no probs at all--even though the temp outside was around - 18 all the way.
Took a lil getting used to driving it---the crosswinds and all but WOW --it was fun..
but now---I need help-----I dont even know all the stuffit has----I keep opening doors and finding things.
here what I've found so far.
( Coleman powermate 8 HP 4000watt generator )
( big mag wheels all around )
( Hydro Flame #7220 heater )
( roof air )
Does anyone else have this heater unit or this generator and if so-a manual or--an explanation of how to start or test them ?
also anycounsel on this motor or things to look out for would all be appreciated.
Wayup in COLD COLD COLD CANADA

thx

Mike


Posted By: old joe on 01/19/05 02:09pm

I have 1973 Starcraft Starcruiser on a M375 Dodge with a 413 cu bought 3 years ago for 300 dollars.today I would not sell it or trade for a new one.Have a lot of time involved getting it road ready,it is now inspected an ready to do some movining on.


ROBERT ALLEN


Posted By: JoeMac1000 on 01/22/05 01:56am

I have a 72 Minnie Winnie, The DMV calls it a 73 because it was first sold in 73, whats a years among friends.

It has a strong running 360 Good old Dodge Motor.

whiteknight001 will e-mail you for your site address.

Joe


JoeMac1000
73' Minnie Winnie, 360.
Still up and running strong.
A bad day of fishing sure beats a good day at work!


Posted By: HiTech on 01/22/05 10:07am

This is very common in Class C motor homes. The chassis is built in one model year, the remainder in the next. In all cases the standard in the RV industry is to consider the MH to be the year of final assembly, just as a car with an engine from the year before is considerd to be the year of its final assembly.

In some states, the registration goes by the year of the RV. In others it goes by the year of the VIN on the windshield, which will be the year the chassis is built.


Posted By: skills4lou on 01/31/05 02:51pm

Hello all! I just bought a 73 Banner Class A on the dodge chassis. Has the 440-3 motor. I started it this morning, it ran for about two minutes then died. Now I can't get it to do anything. Battery power is to the starter, but nothing going through the key. The heater fan doesn't work either. Any ideas on where to look? thanks

Also, I need a new engine oil dipstick. Thanks!!

* This post was edited 01/31/05 09:03pm by skills4lou *


I'm not an expert, but I play one on the internet
"Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly"

98 Chevy 3500 CC 4X4
'76 Kit TC
'99 Prowler 5th wheel


Posted By: Cali_Cole on 02/02/05 10:56am

I have the original shop manual for the Dodge M350 and M375 Chassis with the electrical schematics. I have a 1974 Commander built on the M375 and had to replace the entire electrical system so I know your pain! If you give me an e-mail address I can scan the schematics and send them to you. On another note there are 4 or 5 wires that are located on the back of the ignition switch that come lose. Look under the dash at the back of the switch and push those back on, the are marked “B’ for battery, “I” for ignition, “S” for starter and so on. There is also a fuse block under there to your left. You can use a voltmeter to check the various positions of the ignitions switch and see if it is supplying power. If it’s the ignition switch e-bay has one for about $30.00.
Cole


Cole's 72 Commander


Posted By: EdgarTheBear on 02/02/05 05:53pm

HiTech : the issue of whether a chassis is called one Year or Another, has Nothing Whatever to do with Class C's ; it can have to do with ANY MOTOR VEHICLE made since 1896.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 02/02/05 08:31pm

BT call Home,

We also have a vintage Tioga, we have all the manuals as well. The old motorhome was my parents, now it is ours(never any other owners). If you have any questions let me know, if I don't know the answer, my parents may.

Rhonda


Posted By: tkahike on 02/02/05 09:09pm

TOCMOM: Our heater was bad to. We removed it and capped the line. Then I bought a portable heater with a CO detector built in. That little thing cranks out the heat and I can place it anywhere, since I like it a little cooler, and like to keep the kids warm. I can also hook it up to a 20lb tank if I want to, or of the little 1lb tanks.


Posted By: pugmaster on 02/03/05 01:35pm

I need to get creative on the seating/bed in my '76 class C.
The long seat slides out into a bed but is a royal aggravation haveing to lift it slightly in the center front, aggressively pull it out,layout the mattress, then push back a little since the two piece mattress isn't the full size of the bed. Someday I'm going to injure myself fighting that thing!
The gen compartment and the storage/battery compartments are under the thing so I can't put in a typical RV sofabed. I would like to create something simular with hardware that will fold out and back up as a sofabed does, but I haven't found any kind of hinged and sliding hardware that could work. I could probably design and build such, but I hope someone might know if such a thing exists before I make the insane attempt to build it.

Anyone have any ideas, suggestions?


Posted By: new v'er on 02/03/05 02:25pm

We are starting our first year of actual camping with our rig. We had one 1500 mile trip at the end of the season in MICH. Spent 6 months getting it into travel shape.

I told her "But honey it was such a good deal at $500" She was not impressed, but LOWES, MENARDS, HOME DEPOT, half a dozen local RV dealers and every RV place I could get into in the Elkhart area, and the heavy vehicle mechanic were amazed and awed that one man could be so devoted (stubborn - according to a certain very beautiful woman)to his motorhome that he would spend money like a drunken sailor on shore leave.

While the restoration is largely finished and there is no payment book. As far as the blonde is concerned "It ain't payed for".




Just kidding. We both love it.


Regarding your LOT in Life: Build something on it ... or park your Dodge on it.
Bill & Laurie
1976 Dodge Sportsman Midas Mini 226


Posted By: 77lindy on 02/04/05 06:06pm

We have a 1977 Lindy 20' perched on a Dodge B300 chassis with the 440 cu in motor and automatic transmission. She is currently undergoing a full mechanical service bow to stern. When we get her home we will probably add headers as I understand they increase horse power and mileage. Any other recommended changes?


Roger
undwtrexpl@aol.com


Posted By: denisondc on 02/05/05 08:45pm

77lindy; My impression is that headers wont help miles per gallon or power, unless you are running the engine above 4000 rpm. And of course you would need to have the rest of the exhaust system match the flow rate of the headers. But since the engine in my m400 chassis is only turning about 3000 rpm at 60 mph, (and the driveshaft speed is only about 2780 with the 4.55 rear axle ration), I dont need headers.

There is an MSN group for fix-up old RVs of whatever make. It is still small: http://groups.msn.com/MotorHomeRefurbishorRestoration.
For the vintage dodge based motorhomes, the url www.classicwinnebago.com leads you to the classic winnebago motorhome crowd - which includes other makes, even includes the occasional chevy P30 chassis under a winnebago.

There dont seem to be any Bad vintage RV groups, its all in what the reader likes. I like them all.


Posted By: Sound Choice on 02/06/05 08:09pm

Hey Gang,
I don't know if you want to hear from any Class A's...but mine is an old Cobra MH on an m-400 chasis...440-3-engine. In general there's damn few of us MOPARs left. There is a FMCA chapter called "The Durable Dodges" Just FYI


"...bases are loaded and Kc's at bat...
taking it play by play!"
Kc & Barb
'74 Cobra Dodge 440(on the mend)


Posted By: new v'er on 02/08/05 08:13am

Is this group out of gas?

Hellooooooooo.


Posted By: Koldei on 02/08/05 10:13am

mostly a headcount for mopaRV's


Posted By: new v'er on 02/08/05 11:45am

Well here's a question.

What is the best way to detremine if the gas gauge is bad at the meter, or the sending unit, or if there is a broken circuit?

Any thoughts on repairing cracked rotocast (Plastic) grey or black water tanks?


Posted By: Koldei on 02/08/05 02:22pm

so i've been looking for a brush guard.
no luck yet.
any ideas?

'72 M300 chassis
stock dodge bumper/grille there HAD to be grill/brush guards for teh pickups somewhere

ideas on where to look?

Robert

(PM maybe? probably not a lot of public want for this info?)


Posted By: Koldei on 02/15/05 09:44am

so it's been 2 weeks since groundhog's day,
and officially a month to go before spring..

I for one, am happy that the midwestern groundhogs had a nice, overcast day. they forcast an early spring, and while it's been cool and wet, it hasn't been freezing and icy.

lately I've had way too much time on my hands, and I do beleive i'm way overdue for a good roadtrip

tryin' to shake the winter blues, in favor of the colours of spring!
robert


Posted By: skills4lou on 02/15/05 09:22pm

There was about 3 inches of snow this morning here. I'm still planning a trip starting this saturday. I just plan on not using the water system. Should be lots of fun, since this'll be my first trip.


Posted By: 77overland24 on 02/17/05 09:50pm

Hello, I've just recently found this forum after purchasing my first RV, with the one easy payment method. It's a 1977 Overland 24 footer on a Dodge Van MB400 chassis, with a 10500lb GVWR. Look forward to corresponding with everyone!


Posted By: tkahike on 02/18/05 08:59am

Koldei,

I've been looking at getting a brush guard for my beast also. The two things I have done, is measured the frame and width. I've been to a couple of custom shops, to look at brushguards. I have found 1 that kind of fits. I'm really thinking of making my own. Either out of black pipe and then weld a U to it, or just keep looking. I have seen Dodge vans with them, and since dodge really hasn't changed that chasis in years, you could make it work. I mean they have had the same dash board, for what 20 years.

And also I have been getting the traveling itch also. Winter is just to cold for the little ones. I think about another month and I will go out. Heading out to Dayton OH in May.


Posted By: Birdsong on 02/25/05 11:35pm

Count me in - 1978 Chinook Futura, Dodge van chassis, 400 2-barrel, 727 auto. 67K mi., some systems tweaking and it's ready for some road trips! Can be seen here. ~Scott in TX


Scott & Jamie
Wimberley, Texas

78 Dodge Chinook Futura

"Not all who wander are lost."


Posted By: ksalmond on 03/05/05 05:27pm

hi, pug, i have the same problem... a $90 tent from surplus herbie's solved the problem


ksalmond

*1976 dodge tioga c class
*16 ft edson travel trailer that the gf took over as a studio
*old f-150 that's been running on 5 cylinders for 3 years
*dodge caravan that will never run again but i can't part with
*two cats, a plymouth voyageur the gf took over as her travelling advertisement
*and o, ya, a gf : ))


Posted By: ksalmond on 03/05/05 05:48pm

hi, i bought an old fbi stakeout van (1976 dodge) in cincinatti, ohio, in 1980... the fuel gauge never moved off 1/4 tank... i got rid of it 15 years later... and the day i did, a fellow in a gas station said... stuck on 1/4 right? i said right... he said, but it will never quit... you gonna have to give this baby away : ))


Posted By: ksalmond on 03/05/05 06:02pm

edgar... they (veh reg) couldn't verify my registration even by sighting the vin... bc/canada law asks for 2 sights... my 76 did not have it... but it went throught because previous registration had been approved... but heaven forbid i cross national borders


Posted By: keep'n busy on 03/06/05 01:17am

Recently purchased 1st motorhome. Basket case 18' 1977 Dodge 360 Chinook not abused but very neglected. Paid the owner to drive it the 200 miles over a mountain range to my home as I was afraid to put it on the open road! Well it made it but I don't know how. No emegency brake, oil and transmission dipsticks barely had oil on them, gages did not work, exhaust fumes inside would gag a cockroach and the back door was tied shut.The interior is comparable to the above discription also. But I like a challenge and this old girl will be put back on the road before the end of this year. Would appreciate hearing from any other "vintage" Chinook owners out there as I'm certain I'll be looking for suggestions on how-to???


Posted By: new v'er on 03/07/05 12:27pm

Hi Birdsong.

I see that you have the Firestone ride right air suspension.
Did you add it to your rig? If so how was the installation and what did you notice after the fact as far as handling etc.?


Posted By: Cdog on 03/08/05 03:03pm

Just finished replacing some 110VAC wiring and fixtures in the old gal. I have just pulled the floor out of the overhead and it was shot. Most of it was rotted out on one end and some mouse nests. I am going to pull the lower sidewalls and front wall next and then rebuild it. The good news was the fiberglass was in great shape.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/09/05 03:46pm

Cdog
Isn't it great how the old rigs give us so much fun without leaving the driveway? I spent near every weekend and evening in the spring and summer getting Harvey ready. The knuckles on my left hand have finally settled down from the repeated bashing during the tear out phase. Ants in the thousands were eating the wet wood and burrowed into the foam insulation

All the work really was worth it on the first solid and problem free trip. I can't say for sure but maybe its like childbirth?

This year I'm pulling all windows, hatches and doors to re-butyl or re-putty tape them. It's easier than I thought it would be.


Posted By: Birdsong on 03/09/05 05:41pm

Hi New V'er, the Ride Rite bags were on when I got it. I just had to get it home, fix the hose ends and air them up. I can't even begin to describe the difference in handling & stability with 60 pounds in them. I have some installation instructions I'd be happy to copy for you if you want to see what's involved. Just get me an address to send them to. Current project is to fix the rotten floor under the water tank - I had to tear the whole kitchen out. That's ok - a great time to get rid of the white counters and fit a bigger cooktop & deeper sink.


Posted By: Birdsong on 03/09/05 05:45pm

... also, Keep 'n Busy feel free to contact me - I'm no expert in these things but I'm already into my '78 Chinook a ways. Is yours a Chinook Futura? ~Scott in TX


Posted By: Odd_Couple on 03/09/05 06:38pm

Odometer on our 1972 Class C Melmar on a B300 chassis with a 360 Dodge engine just turned 70,000 at the end of our 1100+ trip to Georgia. What's the highest reading anyone has on an original 360? Hope we can make it to 100K before we need an overhaul!


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 03/09/05 09:29pm

OK need some opinions. Going to re-caulk all the windows in the "chuck wagon". For those that have done this, what do you suggest, silicone, butyl caulk or soft pliable caulk.

Also any ideas on where I can find a tank to carry potable water. Our camping is done in the middle of the woods on National Forest here in Pa., with no hookups, grey and black water tanks are good for 10 to 16 days but run out of fresh water. Looking for something to put into the back of my pickup to transfer to main tank in MH. Just trying to avoid pulling out and driving 12 miles to nearest water source. Did that last year and some inconsiderate camper took my spot. What made me really mad was he also took over my pile of firewood and laid claims to my firering.


Posted By: Cdog on 03/10/05 09:39am

Got the windows pulled. The caulk was holding so hard, I thought the thing still had screws in it. The lower wood was the only rotted area and the windows frames are in good shape. The wood backing for the joint seam is in fair shape and I will probably go ahead and replace it. My wife wants to pull the trim strip to polish it anyway. With the front window out, I plan on using it to access almost everything for removal and rebuild.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/10/05 03:20pm

Union guy:

When pulling out the window etc. go slow and take care you don't damage your siding there is adhesion of the tape and suction at play here. I found a dull lineoleum knife gave me the best leverage and had a small footprint on the siding.

I've checked it out and this is what I found from Professional RV repair folks. Windows are butyl tape doors are putty tape the hatches look to me to be butyl. The Pros said they likesd putty tape for all of the applications. Also the suggested that small peices be cut the size of the dips in the aluminum siding and applied to the cleaned siding then an unbroken strip of tape either butyl or putty is applied to the cleaned frame of the window etc. and then fitted into the opening.

CAUTION: Use a plastic knife when trimming the excess so you won't hurt your siding.


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/11/05 08:18am

My 77 Allegro class A had a problem.The fusible link between the starter relay which is mounted on the frame on mine to the switch circuit burned out. The previous owner did a little creative wiring on his own. causing her not to start. can i use a maxifuse in it's place and how big? the link was gone and a 16 gauge wire rigged up in it's place.I also need some 17.5 tires if anyone knows where to find em! good to see there's more people out here like me,now i won't have to sneak around those new prevosts, ha!

* This post was edited 03/11/05 08:46am by Scruffy5 *


Scruffy 1977 25'Allegro


Posted By: xchawk on 03/11/05 11:44pm

Hello, New here but already learning lots. 1978 Dodge B300 360 engine 20' Leisure-Craft 51,000 miles. We just bought this last fall and very happy with it. Everything works and the engine runs great. Only problem is rear main seal leaking, about a quart every 100 miles. Is there a easier way to fix this, without pulling the engine apart?

Thanks


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 03/12/05 03:54am

Hello all. I recently purchased my first RV...a 1977 Dodge Sportsman F-40 with a 22' "Diamond" coach. I am having one h*&l of a time trying to locate information on it.

Can anyone explain to me what the difference between the B300, A200 and F40 chassis? Also, the kick-down linkage is missing on my engine. The actual kick-down rod is there, but the linkage connecting it to the throttle, etc. is gone. If you have a 1977 Dodge Class-C with a 440ci engine, and would be willing to take photos of the left side of the engine (looking out the windshield), specifically the linkage connecting to the kickdown rod, I would be HUGELY, MASSIVELY, INCREDIBLY grateful! Also...if anyone knows where i can get info on my Dodge F-40, please let me know!

THANKS!!!!!!

Jon

frizfry@trackedaggression.com

* This post was edited 03/13/05 02:59pm by an administrator/moderator *






Posted By: Bmwslim on 03/12/05 06:28pm

I have a 72 Starcruiser, owned for two years, love it. Have lots of info.
Have only seen one on the road. Know of about 6 of us.


Tim Glagola
1972 Starcraft
Star Cruiser
Wilmington, Ill


Posted By: westtexus on 03/13/05 04:38am

I have just spent some time reading all of this thread. My old rv is a 1976 Kings Highway, 440. I have had it for 5 years. It has been very enjoyable and dependable with only two problems. One is vapor lock, which I got plenty of tips on in an eariler post, which I am presently working on.

The other is that somethimes it will not start, no fire at the coil wire. If I use a jumper wire to ground from the negitive side of ignition coil to engine, it makes a spark and then starts as soon as I turn the key. New ignition module, coil, rebuilt distributor, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor. If anyone has had this type of problem, any help would be great.

Also, I need to reseal my windows, RV is fiberglass with aluminum frame. If anyone has reasealed windows in a similar type of RV, please let me know what to use as sealant, and procedure.

Thanks in advance


Westtexus 1976 Kings Highway


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/13/05 08:23am

Westtexus welcome, i'd say your ballast resistor is on its way out. to check it,unplug the leads and use an ohmeter to check the resistor.i don't know what the values should be,maybe someone else would have those for you on here.I'd just replace it there cheap and easy to come by or they were.If you haven't got one of these little porcelain gidjets they use a risistor wire in it's place.check it


Posted By: truckerger on 03/13/05 08:28am

Mine is a '73 B300 Monaco. It was in bad shape when I got it but the interior and all the appliances now look good and work. Its a bit ugly on the outside and I was wondering if anyone out there knew where to get new fender skirts? Thats the only thing I need other than paint to complete this awesome coach. Thanks TG


Posted By: Odd_Couple on 03/13/05 08:30am

Just a note on our 1972 "Melmar" on a 300B chassis. I'm wondering if anyone else has an aluminum exterior. Ours is basically coated siding that had oxydized to the point that it was showing patches of bare metal. We finally decided to try painting it ourselves rather than pay the price of a professional job. After sanding the surface to remove any loose or chalky material, we used the Original Kilz (alcohol based) and then painted it with high quality Behr house paint. It turned out great and has held up perfectly for over 2 years and several thousand miles. Anyone else tried painting their rig?


Posted By: new v'er on 03/14/05 12:18pm

Hi Truckerger,
These two sites may have what you are looking for. You may need to sit down when you see the price the fenders command.

http://www.all-rite.com
http://www.edmontonrv.com/

Good Luck


Posted By: pugmaster on 03/16/05 12:27pm

We painted our "76 dodge ourselves. She has a aluminum skin that had lost most of the paint. As you did, we did a lot of light sanding, but we used a industrial grade primer and then painted her with 3 coats of Rustoleum high gloss paint. We applied each coat very lightly allowing plenty of drying time between coats.We got a beautiful smooth finish and very easy to clean and wax. Been almost 3 yrs and she still looks like a she was just painted.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/16/05 03:11pm

Odd and Pug
Thanks for sharing the tips on painting. I'm toying with the idea as well. Any things to watch for in the process? Did you use spray guns?


Posted By: pugmaster on 03/18/05 12:51pm

We bought an automotive spraygun set with a the 1gt sprayer, 1pt touchup gun and an airbrush. Already had an air compressor. Been looking often at that airbrush, considering attempting a little fancy decorative work on the sides and back end. Gotta practice on some scrap sheet metal first. Never tried airbrush work. Be glad to offer advice on your painting project. Took a while to get up the nerve to
attempt it, but once I got started I really enjoyed it.


Posted By: LadyCat1947 on 03/18/05 01:02pm

We just bought a 1976 Minnnie Winnie 20RG (don't know what the RG stands for) Right now we are fixing it up, making it our own:-) Dan is in charge of the mechanics and I am in charge of decorating.. Dan says the emgine and transmission etc are in great shape, so that is very good news:-) The inside isn't bad just very dreary with all the dark paneling and brown curtians. The cushions are ugly so my first order of business is to get them reupholstered:-)

This is our very first RV (I am 57 Dan is 62) and we just love it (it hasn't even left the driveway yet.lol)

Cat and Dan in Ohio:-)


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 03/18/05 01:08pm

If your "kitchen" is in the rear, I would bet that RG means "Rear Galley"....being that "Galley" is a common word used in the boating community (and perhaps the RV community?)


Posted By: new v'er on 03/18/05 01:24pm

Pugmaster,
Thanks for the tips. Did you paint indoors? Did you tape off parts or remove them first. What was the sanding and prep process?
I know the temptation at the graphics. Been there with two boats.

FrizzleFried,
Welcome. We kind of went through the same process except I had to tear out the entire roof/ceiling. We installed FRP(the white bumpy fiberglass)paneling on the walls and ceiling. Gluing the stuff to the ceiling nearly lost me my religion. While I had the rig tied up Laurie painted all of the cabinets with a cranberry paint and stensiled and painted Loons in one corner of each of the doors and drawers. We then applied satin waterbase polyurethane for duability.

The whole color scheme resulted from some fleece material with loons.
While the rig was topless we installed new carpet and dropped in a sleeper sofa to replace the jacknife sofa.

Best wished to you both.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/18/05 01:29pm

LadyCat 1947, Welcome. I meant to reply to you but FrizleFried got caught in the crossfire.

Have fun with the rig.


Posted By: YukonDoug on 03/20/05 09:55pm

I have an old 1975 Fireball on a Dodge chassis. It's a 24 footer and has needed some TLC. We bought it to give me a place to live while building a house. I'ts only been on one trip (Labor Day weekend to Kusawa Lake, Yukon), but my wife tells me I was camping all summer.

I did have to reframe the sleeper because of a leaking front window. I gave it the proverbial lick and a promise because of time constraints but am planning to finish the job later. I do have a few things left to take care of, including a blocked furnace pilot orfice and blocked gas tube in the oven, a leaky intake filler line to the water tank, and some serious doubts about the integrity of my transmission. It's only showing 68,000 miles (it's a US model so no kilometers) but, hey, who knows how many times it's gone around.


Doug Rutherford
Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada
1975 24' Fireball


Posted By: new v'er on 03/21/05 12:59pm

Welcome YukonDoug.

There must have been some industry standard practices back in the mid '70s. That's why we stop by here frome time to time. We have many of the same issues which may or may not be resolved. Putting our heads together seems like the RAM kind of thing to do.

Keep us informed on how you worked out the heater issues. Remember, it could be a silent killer.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 03/21/05 06:19pm

I was poking around the motorhome last night when I decided to pull all the camping gear out of the back storage area next to the toilet just to take inventory (the guy I bought it from at last minute decided to leave all the camping equipment with the RV!)...low and behold, besides the wealth of camping equipment (2 propane lanters, propane stove, lantern mounts, etc.), which I knew about, was a box of papers...including:

Many mechanical receipts up to 2001...it appears that the owner prior to the guy I bought it from was maticulous about keeping receipts...from oil changes, to parts replaced...unfortunately, it seems that the guy I got the RV from wasn't so meticulous (or didn't buy much) as I have nothing from 2001 on.

Many "coach" receipts, also up to 2001...including purchase of my stove in 1995, refrigerator in the late 1980s...the two captains chars in 1995...etc....more good stuff indeed.

Also included, to my surprise, was the ORIGINAL OWNERS MANUAL for my 1977 Diamond RV. It surely is flimsy and doesn't provide much specific information, but it is just damn cool to have the original owners manual. I also have the original owners manual for the 2.7kw Onan generator (not sure how old it is...but the manual looks old), air conditioning, etc.

All in all it was one helluva find! This being my birthday, I couldn't ask for more!


Posted By: LadyCat1947 on 03/21/05 08:12pm

Dear FrizzleFried:-) My galley in on the side of the RV so that doesn't work.lol thanks for responding though:-)

Cat


Posted By: LadyCat1947 on 03/21/05 08:14pm

Thanks for the welcome new'vr:-) I tried to thank you the other day but the website was giving me fits..

Cat


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/22/05 01:06pm

Anyone know anything about these Carter Thermoquad carbs?Mine was leaking gas onto the intake i think through the throttle linkage and when i changed oil she was a little overfull needless to say the lower end should be good and clean.i bought a carb kit for it and i am in the process of putting it in.Question,the fuel bowl is made of they say phenelic resin and on the bottom of the bowl there's two wedge type caps that used to be glued on,but there not.is this where my flooding is coming from and what kind of glue can i use to reattach these babies?thanks for the help Scruffy


Posted By: Sound Choice on 03/22/05 05:24pm

Hey Scruffy5,
I don't KNOW a great deal about the Thermoquad, but I do have a great deal of experience...ALL OF IT BAD! Barb & I have a '74 Cobra/Dodge 440-3 engine for 5 years...it has had a Thermoquad Carb on it, to our, and our mechanics, consternation(thats constipation of the brain). (I should point out that Larry, our mechanic is an ex Dodge Truck Division Chrysler guy and no matter what he did at my request to "get us by" the T-Quad will not hold an adjustment, floods or starves, or will not properly choke on starting. Larry says it was because Chrysler used non-metalic (cheap) parts and with age and wear were not very good for very long. Even Chrysler came out w/a Bulletin reccommending conversion to a Carter AFB carb, which we are doing as of this writing. In about one-weeks time I will give you a more detailed report on the conversion. There should be others on this thread with even more experience than I who may respond also.
In addition to the Good Sam folks there is also a "Durable Dodge" chapter with FMCA which share great info etc.


Posted By: westtexus on 03/22/05 05:52pm

I put an Edelbrock performer series on my 1976 440, and with proper adjustment, it runs great, starts properly in cold weather. I have had a problem with vapor lock, but have taken steps to fix that. Don't know if it is fixed yet, but I will soon. I should point out that my Edelbrock was new in the box, but the float level and drop, nor any part of choke function was adjusted. Nor would the rear butterflies open. The instruction manual did have very good instructions, for the most part, on how to make adjustments.


Posted By: pugmaster on 03/23/05 01:12pm

Hi Scruffy5
Get rid of that Thermoquad!
I faught and struggled with the Carter Thermoquad and beat
my head against the dash in frustration. Even when it's adjusted
"perfect" it still won't be right. I too had to drain the oil then air out the engine for a few days due to filling with gasoline.
I finally got smart after spending a fortune on trying to keep the
thermoquad adjusted: I removed it, hammered it into new forms, made it into an interesting pile of scrap metal, then ordered a Edlebrock carb. An Edelbrock is expensive, but considering what it will save you in the future it's very well worth the cost. Installation is very
easy and Edelbrock makes a carb specificly to replace the Thermoquad.


Posted By: Airmon on 03/23/05 02:49pm

Hi all,
I'm joining the Dodge club. We just bought '79 Beaver 25' Class C, we go to pick it up in a little over a week. I'll post pictures once we have it and let everyone know how the trip went. We're very excited to move from a TT to a Class C and eager to play with our new/old camper. It's the perfect layout and has virtually everything that we wanted.


Eric
2003 HR 29RBD/2006 Liberty CRD
Big Pine Key, FL
www.jenericramblings.com


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/24/05 05:30am

Okay I'm convinced,I've been checking the local parts stores around here,they can get me a Edelbrock,but can't find a application for a 440.all they come back with is a replacement thermoquad!how big and what carb# so i can say give me this and that and how much of the quad linkage do i save?did you go performer 600cfm like Westexus or 750? thanks and how big of a hammer did you use?


Posted By: westtexus on 03/24/05 06:26am

Measure the primaries on your thermoquad, one inch is 800 cfm, 1 1/2 inch is 850 cfm, and the 1000 cfm is marked performance series. As I understand it only these sizes were made. I ended up with a 600cfm because I did not know this at the time and trusted the guy behind the counter. Although I have read on a carb web site that 600cfm is good for engines up to 300 HP.

Edelbrock tech support told me they no longer make a direct replacement, requiring an adapter from spreadbore to squarebore.


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/27/05 04:07am

Hey where did everybody go?Iposted this somwhere but in the wrong forum probably! einstein i'm not.I must be the only one left with a Dem Old Dudes Go Everywhere


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/27/05 04:13am

Does anyone know where i can find a replacement wheel cover for 17.5 budd wheel? i lost one somewhere!


Posted By: JoeMac1000 on 03/27/05 09:19pm

Scruffy5...
Try E-Bay, under the automotive section. Search Hub Caps or Wheel Covers.

JoeMac


Posted By: new v'er on 03/28/05 12:38pm

What is the difference between a 16" or 16.5" wheel and "Budd Wheels" of the same size and will I be able to tell the difference by just looking at th ones on my rig?


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/28/05 09:56pm

Mine on the inside of the rim where the tire meets rhe rim it says budd and then a wheel number.I didn't no that until 2 weeks ago until i started shopping for replacement wheels.Budd wheels like mine have a bump on the hub and a line up whole in the rim,what for i'm not sure.Also orignally i guess budd wheels were a two piece wheeland you couldn't use tubeless or radial tires just tube type.Mine have tubeless tires on them and sometime this week new radials put on.hope this helps,if i'm wrong maybe someone can help us both out.by the way Budd wheels was actually a co.and they been out of business for a number of years.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/29/05 06:14am

Thanks Scruff


Posted By: travcojim on 03/29/05 03:53pm

Just a short note to say Hello, I have a 67 travco that has been gone thru top to bottom and runs like a new rig, It now has the 440 with a new tranny and a Dana rear end. Glad to see so many dodge fans out there. I am in Northwest Arkansas.

* This post was edited 03/29/05 10:04pm by travcojim *


Posted By: new v'er on 03/29/05 03:57pm

Welcome TravcoJim, You great big Jellybean


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 03/30/05 10:59am

:BHey everyone it's Christmas!My new 750cfm Edelbrock showed up today!Now it's raining:(The manual tells me other then looking for loose packing[supposed to be pre run and calibrated before it left the factory]new fuel line and filter,and check all old vacumn lines for wear.anything else? also are the 440 distributor full vacumn or timed?thanks now I'll go and admire it.Wish I had a pretty Chrome Air Cleaner now, Neah!

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Mr Jim on 03/30/05 07:45pm

Has anyone installed a Gear Vender overdrive in there old Dodge? Or any ideas that work to lower the revs on the Highway.

Winne
1978 Winnebago, Chieftain 440 Dodge. 23ft.



* This post was last edited 04/03/05 05:26pm by Mr Jim *


Posted By: rlm98253 on 03/30/05 08:15pm

1974 Winnebago Expo, D-24, RM300 chassis, LA318-3 engine, A727 transmission...

Currently a restoration/reconfiguration in progress.


Currently rebuilding a derelict 1974 Winnebago Expo.
(I love a challenge.)



Posted By: tim-n-nikki on 03/31/05 11:39pm

We picked up our (new to us) old Doge chassis, 24' Citation tonight.


More about Nikki & Tim is one click away at:
Tim & Nikki's site.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 04/02/05 07:09pm

Hi All,

I see several questions asking what Edelbrock carburetor is used to replace the Thermo-quad. I also saw one posting stating that the Edelbrock is no longer being produced. I checked with the local NAPA store and they can still order it. It is Edelbrock's model #1905. It states it is a Thermo-quad replacement and is 795cfm.

Here is the web link to the description on Edelbrock's website:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/carb_qjet.html
(scroll down to the bottom - it is the last carb. on that web page)

Hope this info helps,
-jc


Posted By: new v'er on 04/10/05 08:54pm

RobinhoodRv

Thanks for the helpfull post.

Scruffy5
How'd the installation of the new carb go?


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 04/11/05 05:16am

Well I thought maybe this thread passed on!Edelbrock Carbs are super.Anyone interested,Edelbrock #1411 750 cfm ,#1932 spread bore to square and lastly #1481 chry throttle adapter. grand total $333.10 shipped to my door,had it in 4 days,online from Performance Parts Express.Straight forward installation! Of course I took mine apart to check float level etc,but i just wasted my time.they say there preset at the factory and there not lying,Took me longer to change the spark plugs then to do the carb install.Anybody still using the old thermoquad this conversion I highly recommend!

{Edited to remove for sale item}

Have a great day!

* This post was edited 04/11/05 07:39pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: new v'er on 04/12/05 11:00am

Thanks Scruffy.

I found the Edelbrock #1905 to be around $600 new and a rebuilt around $430.
Your $333 looks good.


Posted By: Me,Her, and the Mutt on 04/12/05 11:11am

Have a 24' 1977 Travelcraft, class C. She has a 360 c.i.d. V-8, 51,000 miles and is all mine, paid in full. She is a beast, but I would be hard pressed to get ride of her for something different.
I have been turning wrench on these old Dodges for 15 years. Any questions, give a shout. Happy to assist.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 04/12/05 03:03pm

Has anyone had to replace the turning signal cover on the side on your motorhome?(Not the brake lights on the back) We have a 1978 Tioga, one of the turning signal covers is damaged, we want to replace it. I searched several websites, with no luck, we haven't been able to find the part at any autostores by us either.

Most of the replacement parts we have bought have been very easy(and cheap) to find, thought this would be too.

Thanks!


Posted By: Me,Her, and the Mutt on 04/12/05 09:18pm

You may want to try the parts department at a local truck garage (MACK, Peterbilt etc). A lot of these rigs use lighting components that are in common with the big boys. I have had a lot of luck in this way for these kind of items.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 04/13/05 07:58am

Didn't think about that, and there is a repair and parts store near our house. Thanks.


Posted By: Chicknnhead on 04/14/05 12:03pm

i have a 76 dodge brougham and the turn signal covers on the back corner were the same as on the basic van of that year, maybe that is the same as a 78 van? never know look for one at a salvage yard


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/15/05 07:16am

Hello,
New member here who owns 78 Dodge Class C American Clipper with a 440 engine. love to see all of the posts hear about the older dodges as I have been doing a ton of work on my home, nice to see that I am not alone. I have rebuild the 440 a few years back an just last week replaced the Dana 60 rear end which was set up with 4.11 gears to a Dana 70 with 3.73's. I am looking for that extra MPG if that is at all possible. I Will check out the old posts for some questions I have. Great web site. Love the spell check here. boy do I need that!!
Rodney


Rodney
Visit my website
1978 American Clipper 21 ft. 440 Dodge.



Posted By: Me,Her, and the Mutt on 04/15/05 09:59am

Rodney,
How does the new ratio seem to be working? I have been thinking of doing the same thing for the same reason, but was concerned that it would "lug" the engine to much.
Rob.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/15/05 12:46pm

groenlynx wrote:

Hey, Dodge-ee-o's, glad to chat. How 'bout this deal: Hedman Hedders are available for the 318-360 engines, AND the 413-400-440 Big Blocks. basically, this could easily result in horsepower boost of from 25-50 extra horsepower, AND more Torque AND Better Fuel Mileage. Keep up the posting, and keep the faith.

If you are in the market for a GOOD set of headers not made by them Chebby guys give Doug Thorley a try!! I installed a set on my 78 Class C 440 engine a few years ago. Extra thick flanges an they are plated to prevent rust. the fit was good but I did have to trim 1/4 in from the right side lower control support right next to the collecter this was no big deal and could be something strange with my home. I have been trying different carburators on to get the best mileage and preformance since the thermo quad was leaking fuel in the crank case. I just took a holley 750 off which was working ok but I wasn't impressed with the mileage and mid range power. now I have an Edelbrock 600 installed and the first test drive is very promising..
the low end and mid range power is much better, now to check the MPG.
well back to reading all the posts in this GREAT thread.
Love my Clipper & couldn't really afford a new one anyway.
bfnR


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/15/05 12:52pm

Me,Her, and the Mutt wrote:

Rodney,
How does the new ratio seem to be working? I have been thinking of doing the same thing for the same reason, but was concerned that it would "lug" the engine to much.
Rob.


So far so good but I wouldn't recommend it with a small block engine IMHO. I have a fresh 440 with and RV cam, headers & is running strong.
Also with my swap the tires I got from the parts home which went on mine are a little taller so that moved the gear more in that direction. I have no problem with lugging the low end power is good. If I were to be doing a lot of towing I may be a little concerned.
My Clipper weighs in at 8500 lbs.
Rodney

* This post was edited 04/17/05 02:54pm by Mr.Mopar! *


Posted By: Me,Her, and the Mutt on 04/15/05 09:40pm

Rodney,
That's about what I thought. The smaller engine size and tire combo were my concerns as well. My beast tips the scales a touch over 11,200 lbs. as well. Probably not the best of ideas. I am thinking of a propane conversion though..... Things to ponder.


Posted By: new v'er on 04/17/05 12:40pm

Since many of us are in the same boat, so to speak, (and the definition of a boat is a hole in the water where you throw money)I need some suggestions.

I just removed the gray and black water tanks. At first I was going to use Versachem patch but the damage was too severe in both. I need to replace the ROTECH T-1907 H-11 tanks. It seems that that manufactured is not in business.

Have any of you blazed this trail? Does any one know if the Elkhart, IN RV part retail shops have the older tanks in stock?

Tanks in advance


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/21/05 04:01am

Got a 1970 Explorer class A on 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with a 318 cu. in. engine. (It's a "split year" vehicle, which explains the chassis vs body date difference.)

It was running well when I bought it in 1995 and we used it quite a bit, including living in it for the summer after I retired from the Air Force. For reasons too lengthy to go into here, I left it sit in a field for eight years. After replacing the starter and rebuilding the carb I was able to move eighteen miles to my new home.

Interestingly, the battery, a new Sears DieHard, was in good condition and only needed a little recharging, even though it sat through seven Fairbanks winters, with our usual spells of 40 & 50 below zero temperatures.

I again left it sit for a year and a half before I tried starting it again. After replacing a rotted fuel line it start right up, although the torque converter appears to be slipping due to age and neglect.

It's worth noting that, out of six vehicles, it was our only operational means of transportation. (The others are a mid-70s Mustang II, 1980 Bronco, 1987 F-150, 1990 van, and early 90s Escort.) The reason for the abundance of non-functioning vehicles is another vvveeerrryyy lllooonnnggg story and has nothing to do with the fact that they're all Fords.

Anyhow, the fact that the motorhome pulled through for us has caused my wife to decide she likes the old beast and wants to keep it. Even better, she said I can tear it apart and do a complete restoration and rebuild, something I've wanted to do to a motorhome/camper/whatever since I was in high school.

Currently, I've started tearing it apart and planning the rebuild, working around our lovely spring weather. (It snowed several inches over the weekend and then hit 50 degrees today.)

Oh yeah, the van is running and I'm working on the F-150. The Mustang II and Escort belong to my daughter and I'm leaving those to her to fix. (She's an okay shadetree mechanic for her age.) The Bronco is a jealous and vengeful thing and I'm afraid of what it's going to do because I'm spending all this time on other vehicles. (It's fits of revenge are lengendary and everybody's afraid to ride in it, let alone drive it.)

I'm hoping to write some magazine articles as an outgrowth of my research and experiences on the motorhome project.

Gotta run. It's 2:00 a.m. and I've spend most of the day banging around the Internet looking for info for this project.

Griff


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis ... no engine or tranny (yet)



Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/21/05 10:29am

I haven't read through all of this thread so please forgive me if I'm rehashing something. However, I have seen enough that I think I have info others may find helpful.

I have seen listings for headers to fit Dodge 440 engines in Class A's and B-model van as far back as the late 60's. Their kinda hard to find so try googling headers dodge 440. Adding the chassis type seems to cause more misses than hits.

Finding headers for a 1969 M300 chassis with a 318 engine was harder. Most sites assumed a 1969 Dodge Class A would have a 413 or 440. I was able to find three manufacturers that listed headers for that year/model/engine. Heddman was one of course and for $155 was the cheapest. Doug Thorley was another and an outfit in the Seattle area was the third. The last two listed their headers in the $400-500 range but both also used heavier tubing (14 ga.) and thicker flanges than the Heddmans.

Headers have a tendency to wear out/burn out over time. If this is a problem for you, stick with the stock cast iron manifolds. If your willing to have to eventually replace them, then choice boils down to how long you want to go before replacing them and how much your willing to spend. Heddman headers have been around a long time so they must be providing a reasonable product for the price. On the downside, Heddman caters more to the hot rod crowd with designs that favor high rpm power rather than the low end torque needed by most RVers.

Thorley has also been around a long time and is known for providing a solid product, albeit at a high cost. Also, Thorley headers are targetted more towards street preformance, with an emphasis on maintaining or improving low end torque while improving economy and performance at legal street and highway speeds. Also, I have reason to believe Thorley will work with you if you have a unique application.

I have not verified it but the third outfit appears to be more of a custom fabricator with jigs and schematics for different types of headers. As such, they probably best for odd applications or unique requirements. Designwise, their headers are similar to Thorley's.

For myself, I want the headers to be a "fix and forget" installation and I'm will to pay more for that. Also, a trusted mechanic friend has a set of Thorleys on the 460 engine in his F-250 and he loves them. He uses the truck to tow his boat between Fairbanks and Valdez, a distance of 350-400 miles. A couple of things worth noting: His boat is a big saltwater rig and his truck is almost too small to be towing it that distance. (He really should have a F-350 or -450 for the job.) As an experience mechanic, he barely tolerates the stuff he finds on most vehicles and only really loves his wife and his tools. For his to praise a truck part is significant.

On this basis, I intend to go with the Thorleys because of Doug Thorley's reputation, the heavier tubing, and the thicker flanges. However, I'm going to look into having them made with even thicker flanges. (I hate exhaust leaks and thicker flanges are less likely to warp.) Also, Thorley only lists back to 1970 and I'll need to make sure the headers will fit my 1969 chassis. (They should, research indicates the 1968 to 1971 M300 chassis were identical.)

If the Thorleys won't work or I can't get them with a thicker flange, I'll check with the outfit near Seattle. (I have their address somewhere, I just can't find it right now.)

If neither of those pan out, I'll look into the Heddmans by comparing the idle to 5000 rpm curve with the stock manifolds.

Hope this helps.

Griff


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/21/05 05:08pm

Hello Griff,
I have been running a set of the Thorley Tri-Y headers for a couple of yearss now on my 78 clipper with the 440 engine. thou I haven't put a huge amount of miles on my rig I feel they are worth the money.
nice heavy construction and they are plated for futher rust protection. I did have a small issue with fit on the Rt header down where the flange gose past the lower A arm rear support bracket. I needed to cut about an inch form the bracket. The cut didn't affect the bracket as far as a safety stand point. This could have been something strange with my Clipper? The engine runs cooler and the power at low end is good. they sound pretty good too.


Posted By: new v'er on 04/26/05 08:51am

Mr. Mopar

I just picked up a set of Doug Thorley tri ys. I have the 360 small block.
I was planning on using a 2.5 inch dual system with crossover. I'm considering Flowmaster, Dynaflo or Thrush mufflers.

I heard that its bad for valves to keep the backpressure too low. Would you know if this proposed system is efficient without causing engine trouble?

Also headers radiate more heat than the cast manifold. Did you have to shield or protect engine components, or the dog house?


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/26/05 11:28am

new v'er wrote:

Mr. Mopar

I just picked up a set of Doug Thorley tri ys. I have the 360 small block.
I was planning on using a 2.5 inch dual system with crossover. I'm considering Flowmaster, Dynaflo or Thrush mufflers.

I heard that its bad for valves to keep the backpressure too low. Would you know if this proposed system is efficient without causing engine trouble?

Also headers radiate more heat than the cast manifold. Did you have to shield or protect engine components, or the dog house?


Running bare (or no) headers is the usual cause of "back pressure" problems which is typically a case of cold air hitting the hot exhaust valves and warping or breaking them.

Low back pressure can also be called exhaust scavenging which is good. Large pipes and a crossover are important to a efficient exhaust system and your set-up is exactly what i intend to go with.

Yes, higher heat is a problem. I'm planning, at a minimum, to insulate the starter and sparkplug wires. I'm considering a friend's idea, which is to put in ductwork and a fan to pull hot air out of the top of the engine compartment. He says his setup made the engine run better and seemed to improve power and economy.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/26/05 01:41pm

Hi guys all good things to consider when installing a set of headers.
I feel that getting the cast iron manifolds off the engine and installing the headers have made for better heat disapation rather than creating more heat. in the case of the 440 instalation and the configuration of the tri y headers I did nothing for extra heat sheilds starter or other wise and so far things are working fine. I tried the ducting work and had 2 fans to try and pull the hot air from the dog house but didn't see any real difference?? I my have given up to soon and could have tried some other locations for the duct work but there just isn't room to do much modifications. what I do if when I stop after a long haul is simply open the hood to let the heat escape.
I do think an electric fan in front of the radiator may be a good idea after the rig is stopped to push the hot air from the dog house area but from my personal experence the electric fan didn't keep the engine cool enough and a good clutch fan and the fan shroud works best. the big problem with the electric fan is again not much room to install it and I don't like to use the zip ties which go thru the radiator as they will in time work loose and damage the radiator core.
I would use a good muffler designed for a motor home or truck to handle the extreme back pressure. a muffler made of light steel will not last and will colapse in a short time.
A person could have the headers ceramic coated or you could wrap them with a heat tape called cool it but the tape I have found will cause the headers to rust and rot faster than with out them being wraped.
after I rebuild the engine in my home I left the A/C and all the components off of the engine and left the condenser off as well for better air flow I feel this both has helped keep my Clipper running cool. keep us posted on your progress.
Rodney


Posted By: new v'er on 04/26/05 02:55pm

Thanks to Griff and Mr. Mopar

The info is good stuff.

Doug Thorley folks state something like wrapping a header is like wearing a coat in the heat of a desert. They say it voids the warranty due to hot spots.

The electric fan is an issue. A mechanic stated that there is a way to increase fuel mileage by removing the engine fan and install electric fans.

I hear in your comments that this may prove out to be inadequate.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 04/26/05 02:57pm

From what I got from my friend was the intake for the duct work needs to be at the top engine compartment just behind the carburetor. The idea is to draw out the hot air that collects up there and to pull cool air past the carburetor and intake manifold. He said it's biggest impact is when your sitting still and idling for extended periods, such as in heavy traffic. (He claims it improves his city mileage.) He also said it doesn't have any real effect when you're moving and he turns off his fans on the highway.

He did say it was much more important to have a cool source of air for the intake, be it carburetor, EFI, or TBI. He said that adding a snorkel from the front of the vehicle to the air breather helps a lot if your vehicle doesn't already have one. Just make sure it won't accidentally direct rain into the intake.


Posted By: new v'er on 04/26/05 03:45pm

Griff

Do you have any contact with the Camp LIWA youth camp folks in Fairbanks?


Posted By: raindad on 04/26/05 06:28pm

We are newbie RVers and we have just purchased a luxurious 1977 Winnebago Minnie Winnie 23ft with a Dodge 440 motor. I have yet to read this entire thread but I find it very comforting to know that there are so many knowledgeable people here on this forum.

Raindad


Posted By: new v'er on 04/26/05 06:51pm

Welcome Raindad.

This is good bunch. There is a faithfulness to this group. Just like we have for our rigs.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 04/26/05 07:23pm

new v'er wrote:

Thanks to Griff and Mr. Mopar

The info is good stuff.

Doug Thorley folks state something like wrapping a header is like wearing a coat in the heat of a desert. They say it voids the warranty due to hot spots.

The electric fan is an issue. A mechanic stated that there is a way to increase fuel mileage by removing the engine fan and install electric fans.

I hear in your comments that this may prove out to be inadequate.


hi all!

what I had for and electric fan mounted on the inside of the radiator and had the original fan removed. the electric fan was 16 or 18 inches I don't recal? which covered 2/3's of the radiator which was to be big eouugh according to the manufacture. it just didn't push the air like the good clutch fan. A clutch fan when working properly will free wheel when not engaged this will save horse power.
I wouldn't be concerned about the HP And MPG savings the 440 has plenty for what it is intended to do.

dose anyone have to pass emmisions with your motor home?


Posted By: HiTech on 04/26/05 07:58pm

A fine point, but low back pressure is a large and open exhaust path, scavenging is the venturi effect of one exhaust pulse passing over a DIFFERENT exhaust header tube, and drawing out extra gasses thru the open valves. They are 2 different effects that can be achieved individually or in combination, depending on the headers used.


Posted By: sandman41 on 04/27/05 03:56pm

Count me in as one.
1975 Travel Queen
needs a lot of TLC, but lovin it.
water heater works
stove works
roof air (coleman Mach 1) works
some of the wood interior needs help..(LOL)
but am really really really wanting to take this (have yet to put a name to her, but will soon)out for a trip.

Thanks


Never say never, Just say, that will take a little longer.



Posted By: new v'er on 04/28/05 01:51pm

Welcome Sandman41
Sooner or later we will have questions, answers, or tid bit of inspiration to share. Glad your here.


Posted By: new v'er on 05/02/05 08:26am

Sandman,

I used white FRP panels on the interior. Boy did that brighten things.
Hanging fiberglass panels on the ceiling will test the best of marriages.

What's your first project?


Posted By: mbwalshmpls on 05/02/05 11:03am

Hey, great thread and some great people. I have a 1980 Cruise Air on a Dodge M500 Chassis with a 440-3 and a torqueflite 727 transmission. Some advantages of these rigs over the newer are that I just had the transmission rebuilt for $800.00. The trannie on my Dakota cost over $2000. Sure, she can't blow down the road at 80 mph, but only a fool would want to. A little slower on the steep hills but that is OK, I am on vacation anyway. I love this old rig. Been working on updateing and restoreing, just put in a new toilet (China bowl and everything). Next is to replace the paneling on the kitchen cabinets. OH yeh, I also hope to get the gen-set working sometime.


Posted By: david_42 on 05/02/05 06:57pm

I have a '79 Monarch with a 440 and dual glasspacks. It's a total money pit & I've never had a trip without a major breakdown! [I'm talking sleeping in the repair depot's parking lot two nights a week EVERY trip] Drinks oil like a Texan. Electrical problems (two alternators in three years, voltage regulator, all outside lights have failed at one time or another, lost all cab power four times due to connector problems), suspension problems ($3700 worth), the attic basically fell off due to dryrot. Now the engine is acting up, any dumb big-block lovers here? PS Forgot to mention the fan clutch replacement & exhaust manifold that will NOT stay tight! Heater failed on my second trip. And the cab A/C hasn't worked since the test drive. By the way, the local Dodge dealer doesn't carry parts for anything over 20 years old.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.

* This post was edited 05/02/05 07:04pm by david_42 *


Posted By: YukonDoug on 05/02/05 07:35pm

david_42 wrote:

I have a '79 Monarch with a 440 and dual glasspacks. It's a total money pit & I've never had a trip without a major breakdown!

...

By the way, the local Dodge dealer doesn't carry parts for anything over 20 years old.


Ouch. I know I've had to spend a few bucks on mine. I guess it's the result of being old (actually, both of us are starting to qualify).

I suppose that it comes down to the idea of whether it's cheaper to keep it or get something newer. It sounds like you might want to take the second choice.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/03/05 02:32am

[quote=david_42]I have a '79 Monarch with a 440 and dual glasspacks. It's a total money pit & I've never had a trip without a major breakdown! [I'm talking sleeping in the repair depot's parking lot two nights a week EVERY trip] Drinks oil like a Texan. Electrical problems (two alternators in three years, voltage regulator, all outside lights have failed at one time or another, lost all cab power four times due to connector problems), suspension problems ($3700 worth), the attic basically fell off due to dryrot. Now the engine is acting up, any dumb big-block lovers here? PS Forgot to mention the fan clutch replacement & exhaust manifold that will NOT stay tight! Heater failed on my second trip. And the cab A/C hasn't worked since the test drive. By the way, the local Dodge dealer doesn't carry parts for anything over 20 years old.[/quote] Ah, that's tempting. Just the kind of vehicle I love. It is a bit tricky getting one of these older vehicles into good running condition, especially if previous owner(s) neglected maintenance. (Save a penny now, pay a dollar later.) The ones that really try my patience are the vehicles whose previous owner(s) engaged in "creative" maintenance. Unfortunately, the wife would kill me if I took in another orphen without finding homes for some of the ones I already have. BTW - Schucks, NAPA, etc. usually have the parts you're looking for and they often cost less than the dealer. (The folks at Schucks swear I sit up nights thinking up questions to confound them.)

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/03/05 07:33am

hi David 42,
if you brake down in Central oregon look me up I have lots of 440 parts.
I have found most of the drive train parts on the shelf at the local parts store. yes the dodge dealer doesn't carry much in the way of older parts.
I paid 5000k for my 78 a few years ago and have had to replace the engine, swap the rear axel, brakes, fix the electric control center for the coach, recarpet,
new paneling and the list goes on. I have done this over several years to spread out the cost of repairs. I could never justify buying a newer home that I could not work on myself so the older Clipper is a keeper for me and I do see the end of the repairs {I hope} soon. I do the repairs myself or would have never considered a project like this and I have been able to build it the way I want it. I have a good builder 440 out of my motor home if you need a builder let me know. glad to help.
bfn Rodeny


Posted By: AnRvee on 05/05/05 08:19pm

Hi,
I am looking at purchasing a 73 Dodge Diamond Class C motorhome.
I notice that CDog says he's got one. I want to know what have been your problems, rants and raves about this machine, hopefully before I take the plunge. Please respond as soon as possible. I may buy it tomorrow. Please email me at AdamKris@aol.com.
Thanks.

AnRvee


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/05/05 09:15pm

AnRvee wrote:

Hi,
I am looking at purchasing a 73 Dodge Diamond Class C motorhome.
I notice that CDog says he's got one. I want to know what have been your problems, rants and raves about this machine, hopefully before I take the plunge. Please respond as soon as possible. I may buy it tomorrow. Please email me at AdamKris@aol.com.
Thanks.

AnRvee


Hi AnRvee,
good luck with your purchase if you go for it.
What I would suggest & I am sure you already know this.
look closely and ask questions about the maintaince of the entire home.
if it is a Valley rig {or any where really} pay close attention to water leaks, which would show as water stains around roof vents A/C unit windows ect. and check for mold in closed up areas.
make sure the fridge, heater, water heater holding tanks for leaks. plumbing and all are in good working order. if the home has a trailer hitch on it check to see that all of the framing and mountings are solid and have not compromised the frame of the home from abuse or poor construction.
take a close look at the engine and drive train for mechanical problems. oil leaks ect. Drive the home to see that the engine pulls strong and the trans shifts smoothly and is responsive. Brakes in good working order.
let us know how it goes for you
Rodney


Posted By: new v'er on 05/06/05 12:41pm

Welcome ANRVEE.
I say an amen to MR.Mopar.
Complete R&R of the entire roof structure including new vents and fantastic fan,wood around windows, subflooring in the back corners, new fridge, gray and black water tanks, hotwater tank, carpet, sleeper sofa and two new captain's chairs, fiberglass reinforced paneling, new tierod ends, master cylinder, transmission cooler, new brakes, radiator and hoses are just beginning to make me think about the $500 original price tag for the rig. Headers are next.
But you know, I really got a kick out of making the old new. I have no payment book. I feel it's paid for. My sweetie says "Oh you think so!!!"

Enjoy the journey if you take it. Otherwise, save your money and get one in newer and possibly better condition.

I know what's up with mine. The one ten years newer still has questions.


Posted By: Cdog on 05/10/05 01:40pm

I really enjoy my Diamond, but I have to admit there are times when I ask myself "What the bleep have I got myself in for?" Right now I am rebuilding the front frame because of a water leak that rotted the wood. With a MH this old, camping is not the hobby. Restoring the MH is the hobby and camping is a side benefit.


Posted By: new v'er on 05/10/05 06:23pm

Way to go CDog.
I never knew the hours of entertainment I was going to have right in driveway! It beats reruns of Raymond.


Posted By: blapoint on 05/11/05 09:57pm

Im onboard with a 77 dodge 23 foot sportsman on an M400 frame.


Posted By: new v'er on 05/12/05 01:31pm

Just got the buggy back from the shop where they installed the new waste tanks. Should have seen the bill. I reall prefer to do my own work but this was a system I did not know. It took the pros 8 hrs. I don't have the time for that plus the learning curve.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 05/12/05 02:17pm

Hey Cdog...you get any photos of your Diamond yet? I am still looking to see what she looks like. I have yet to see one other Diamond on the road nor in pictures...


Posted By: munkalido on 05/16/05 03:39pm

Wow! This thread has lived a while. Mr. Mopar, we camp from time to time at the Cove. Perhaps we'll see you there sometime?

I just today went to start getting my MH ready for the summer. My alt gauge is in the D area... decharge? Alt not working? I'll follow some advice I saw on another post to trouble shoot that one.

I've replaced my thermoquad with the Edl-1905. One problem that came up is it now runs rich (625 to a 795 cfm) Wonder if adding an aftermarket air cleaner, open all the way around would help? Also considered putting a hose on my current snorkled air cleaner to draw fresh air from the grill but there isn't much room to run the hose.

Another problem with the new carb. is the fuel intake is in rear of the carberator (vs. front as is on TQ) and now I'm experiencing vapor lock! I have to reroute the fuel line away from heat to see if this helps. I have a electronic pump towards the tank and the mechanical and still have the VL...

Today I took all the information on my Onan 4 so I could tune it up. It has 1200 plus hours on it and runs rough.

I'm still debating weather or not to add headers. I've already put new exhaust on it... big stuff dumping out before the wheel. It's a bit louder but I'm a bit of a motorhead and like the sound:>

My grey water tank seems to ooze when it's about 3/4 full... it's made of some kind of plastic and I can see the stress cracks all along it. Anyone ever replaced the tanks before? If so, where do you get them?

One last thing is we're going to replace the rug in the bathroom with tile. Ours has a tub and the kids splash around, get the rug wet and it makes the whole coach smell musty.


That's all for now.

"Munkalido"
1976 Beaver, 23'Monterey
C-class Dodge 440


Posted By: sandman41 on 05/16/05 08:26pm

new v'er wrote:

Sandman,

I used white FRP panels on the interior. Boy did that brighten things.
Hanging fiberglass panels on the ceiling will test the best of marriages.

What's your first project?


I got rid of the Green capet down the center and replaced with tile. Much better. Next will get rid of the green carpet by the overhead bunk. Am using Kilz to get rid of ceiling stains after fixing leaks and plan to paint ceiling in off white. Have replaced some molding with matching (the cabinets and some walls) new. A lot of work. Am getting the bug to at least get it shape to go out for a weekend without being self-concious about the old girl. (the MH) LOL. I don't have a HW..LOL AM working on a suburban funace problem at the moment.

thanks


Posted By: Shaggy-360-Dodge-RV on 05/16/05 11:22pm

Bought a 1977 Dreamer today that has a 360 2bbl with 40,000 miles. Everything seems to work but it needs a little TLC as it's been in storage since 2001... Later, Shaggy.


Posted By: xchawk on 05/17/05 09:30am

Hi, we are the proud owners of a Dodge class C 1978 and are enjoying are first year as we make the needed repairs to keep her on the road. We pull a 8x16' trailer and the set-up works well. the problem is now that the weather is starting to warm up so is the engine. In the evening or on a cool day we go down the road with the engine at 180 degrees, add a hill or some head winds and that climbs to 200 degrees quickly, and now that the weather is getting warming we are finding that the temp climbs quickly and I'm worried we will end up with overheating problems. It has a 360 engine, does anyone have experience with this and what would be my best solution? Can I install a bigger radiator? or will a transmission/oil cooler help? I would like to solve this before we end up stranded or damage the engine so any help would be appreciated.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 05/17/05 09:53am

We have a 1978 440, it has a transmission cooler on(it had problems running hot). I can't imagine having it without.

* This post was edited 05/17/05 11:39am by Rhonda K. *


Posted By: HiTech on 05/17/05 10:39am

If it were mine I'd start with a backflush of the radiator and an inspection - it may not be cooling as it should.


Posted By: Mr Jim on 05/17/05 11:25am

xchawk wrote:

Hi, we are the proud owners of a Dodge class C 1978 and are enjoying are first year as we make the needed repairs to keep her on the road. We pull a 8x16' trailer and the set-up works well. the problem is now that the weather is starting to warm up so is the engine. In the evening or on a cool day we go down the road with the engine at 180 degrees, add a hill or some head winds and that climbs to 200 degrees quickly, and now that the weather is getting warming we are finding that the temp climbs quickly and I'm worried we will end up with overheating problems. It has a 360 engine, does anyone have experience with this and what would be my best solution? Can I install a bigger radiator? or will a transmission/oil cooler help? I would like to solve this before we end up stranded or damage the engine so any help would be appreciated.



I have a 1978 Class A and had a similar problem. You need to check timing and thermostat. If you still have the problem it's probably cooling. Mine turned out to be a clogged radiator. It had 19 years of scale on the bottom. I replaced it and when I took it out it weighed a ton. I dropped it on the ground and Rocks came out (Scale). I had it re-cored. And now the needle never leaves the bottom of the warm zone.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/17/05 01:31pm

xchawk wrote:

Hi, we are the proud owners of a Dodge class C 1978 and are enjoying are first year as we make the needed repairs to keep her on the road. We pull a 8x16' trailer and the set-up works well. the problem is now that the weather is starting to warm up so is the engine. In the evening or on a cool day we go down the road with the engine at 180 degrees, add a hill or some head winds and that climbs to 200 degrees quickly, and now that the weather is getting warming we are finding that the temp climbs quickly and I'm worried we will end up with overheating problems. It has a 360 engine, does anyone have experience with this and what would be my best solution? Can I install a bigger radiator? or will a transmission/oil cooler help? I would like to solve this before we end up stranded or damage the engine so any help would be appreciated.


Yes check all of the basics.. timing, good thermostat, belts ect.
you didn't say how much the trailer you are towing weighs? you may be asking a lot of the 360 engine. What I found when chasing the over heating problem with my 8000 lb Clipper with a 440 engine was several things.
One was the fan shroud was gone I didn't have one at all.
2 the clutch on the fan was old and in need of a new one.
3 the radiator was OEM and needing a rebuild and when I had it recored I had the largest thickness core installed and dimpled tubes. the dimples are to aid in cooling so I went for that as well.

an aftermarket trans cooler is also a must but I do plumb it in series with the radiator.
I also have installed a larger transmission pan for more oil capacity in the transmission.
good luck and let us know how it works out for you.
Rodney


Posted By: new v'er on 05/17/05 02:28pm

First thing I did when I got our rig was to change ALL fluids, new radiator, hoses, thermostat and install a transmission cooler. She stayed at 170 regardless of terrain.


Posted By: Cdog on 05/17/05 02:44pm

FF, I do not have a host site for my pictures and this forum does not allow for hosting pics. Most of the forums I deal with only allow posting for their forums any more. I will say that mine looks a lot like yours, but missing the front overhead right now. If I get a time to find a good host, I will be sure and take some pictures and post them.


Posted By: HiTech on 05/17/05 02:47pm

Stay tuned...


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/17/05 05:59pm

Cdog wrote:

FF, I do not have a host site for my pictures and this forum does not allow for hosting pics. Most of the forums I deal with only allow posting for their forums any more. I will say that mine looks a lot like yours, but missing the front overhead right now. If I get a time to find a good host, I will be sure and take some pictures and post them.


give this one a try
http://photobucket.com
it works for me 15 mg an its FREE
Rodney


Posted By: westtexus on 05/17/05 06:49pm

Is a 1976 440 supposed to take a 180 or a 195 thermostat? I thought 180, but at the auto parts store they say it calls for a 195.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 05/17/05 07:05pm

Google "free image hosting" and you will get a SLEW of options...I use either photobucket as above, or Imageshack (www.imageshack.com).


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/18/05 02:43am

Update on 1970 Explorer rebuild:

Removed front and rear endcaps. (Yes, it's a Class A but I prefer the company here in the Class C forum. Besides, it's only 23 foot so it's closer to a Class C than most Class A behemoths.) Shook left (street-side) wall...wall collapsed onto the ground in three large pieces and many smaller pieces.

Having a blast, even if I am measuring progress in terms of how many dumpsters I fill.

Found many interesting things...some of the "bass-ackwards" engineering is truly a sight to behold...radiator could not be removed without removing entire endcap...large areas did not have any insulation, not even the scant R3.75 that was in most areas...plumbing system was awe-inspiring...haven't seen so many twists and turns since Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.

Still working on website.


Posted By: xchawk on 05/18/05 09:47am

Hi, thanks for all the great idea's. So far I have flushed the radiator, all belts and hoses are good. I am in the process of adding a Transmission cooler today, have blown out the radiator fins and moved the front lic plate which covered about a 2" x 10" part of the lower radiator. I'll let you know if any of this helps. If not my next two items to check are the fan clutch and radiator core.
Keith


Posted By: munkalido on 05/18/05 12:42pm

xchawk wrote:

Hi, thanks for all the great idea's. So far I have flushed the radiator, all belts and hoses are good. I am in the process of adding a Transmission cooler today, have blown out the radiator fins and moved the front lic plate which covered about a 2" x 10" part of the lower radiator. I'll let you know if any of this helps. If not my next two items to check are the fan clutch and radiator core.
Keith


You know, after reading a few of these messages, I've noticed my MH does warm a bit while climbing hills. It already has a trans and oil cooler so perhaps I'll also clean out my radiator. My front plate could also be moved out of the way. What do you have to remove to get at the radiator? Grill only?


Posted By: xchawk on 05/18/05 02:42pm

Yes grill only gives good access to the front of the radiator.


Posted By: munkalido on 05/18/05 05:22pm

Did you remove the radiator of flush it in place?


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 05/18/05 07:38pm

Hi all, just got a chance to read over all the entrys. Did some remodeling over the winter on the MH. New ceiling, double check that roof leaks were fixed, some minor fix-its. Was ready for a shake down run. Got together with some of my fellow officers of the Moose Lodge and went on a Moose hopping trip. The old girl run flawlessly. The 440 pulled many a hill at 45 to 50. One of the guys on the trip restores classic cars. All through the trip he keep opening the window nearest the exhaust and kept saying, "Oh my that 440 sounds sweet and strong." One of the other guys could not believe I only paid $800 for the rig last summer, and offered $3500 for it. Had to tell him "not for sale." The governer wanted to know if we can consider this our first annual trip.

Getting the girl ready for labor day. The Mrs. and I never enjoyed campground camping so we take the MH about six miles back into the National Forest. Can't wait. Taking it out on 5-25 and returning 6-4. Keep the constant flow of info coming. It sure is nice to read about the problems someone else encountered on some fix ups so that you don't make that same error.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 05/18/05 07:44pm

Perhaps you have mentioned it somewhere throughout this thread...however, could you please tell what "she" is? Year, length, etc...

Nothin' quite like the "barrel" sound of a big block dodge motor....

MMMMM...MMMMM...Good!


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/19/05 07:48am

I love this thread!!! Keep it up and pretty soon we'll have the Fords, Chevys, DPs, etc. jealous.

Had to take a break from working on motorhome...opening night for latest (last) Star Wars movie...wife and I have made to opening night of all six. (Don't laugh, my kids don't know how close they came to being named Luke and Leia.)


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/19/05 07:59am

http://www.madras.net/~gcycle/78_clipper.htm

here is a link to a page I started for my American Clipper and when I find the time will post all of the work I have done to her on it.
May the {MOPAR} Force be with you!!


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 05/19/05 07:52pm

Hey Frizzle, posted the specs when I first joined but will repost for some of the newer members. 26' Coachman Sportsman model sleeps 8 (24 if u stack em properly) Powered by Dodge 440 with Doug Thorley headers feed through a 3 1/2" stainless steel exhaust. Sat in guys side yard for 5 years. His daughter used it as a play house. Day I went and looked at it we put 5 gal gas in tank, 1/4 cup down carb, threw an old interstate battery in her and she fired and run on the 6th roll of the engine. Very next day I was offered $1000 for the motor. Did about $1200 of mechanical work, much not really needed but grandpa always taught me a little prevention saves alot of aggrievation. Anyhow dont owe a nickle on it and already have gotten more enjoyment out of her than what has been spent. Bought chains for the back tires and drove through 9" of snow, 2 mile back dirt road, day after Thanksgiving to my favorite hunting spot and didnt return for 10 days. As you may guess, I didn't buy the girl to let it set tarped over the winter up here in Pa. Got down to 15 degrees and furnace had no prob keeping inside warm. Used less than 20# gas over this 10 days.

Yep I know its a Class A, but still powered by MOPAR


Posted By: HungarianDude on 05/22/05 05:02pm

Hello all.

My name is Andy Illes, proud owner of a 21' 1976 Dodge Sportsman based American Clipper Class C, and the Conkles turned me on to this site through their post about you in our AmericanClipper.com website, which you're all welcome to visit. Nearly all Clips (built from '75 to '81) ride on a Dodge Sportsman chassis, with a few Chevys after
Dodges got scarce. Most are 21', a few 24's, and are all-fiberglass and extremely well built, so most are still on the road and in use. The Dodges have either 360s (mine) or 440s - all with T-727s, while the Chevys are 400s. Like I see here with you guys, most of us do our own maintenance.

Glad I found this site, and hope to both gain and contribute info.


Posted By: munkalido on 05/22/05 09:53pm

This week I'll be finishing un-winterizing (summerizing??) my Beaver and will take a bunch of pictures of it and post them. I recently figured out photobucket and found it easy as can be to post pixs, so...

Has anyone put a storage container (yakima/thule, etc..) on top of their coach? I was thinking of doing it for those things I always carry but don't want inside (artificial turf, extra garden hose, axe, tiki torches, etc...) and was wondering how difficult it is... and the worries about going through the roof with screws and finding trusses and such..

happy memorial day!
munkalido
1976 Dodge sportsman 440, 23' Beaver Moneterey


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/22/05 10:26pm

Hi Andy glad to see you found this place...
lots going on here, enjoy.

munkalido
I don't personally have a storage unit mounted on the roof of my Clipper but have done quite a bit of repair to my roof and inner ceiling caused by leaking of the vents and where a TV antenna was mounted. The roof on the Clippers are fiberglass but I would guess if yours is tin you would want to take the same precautions to not create any leaks. The RV supply store has a coupe of different types of caulk for sealing vents and places were you want to make sure no water will get inside. Be sure to seal all mountings where your storage container mounts and mount it to solid supports on the roof and you should be good to go. Just the other day I was following a motorhome which had a Yakima on the roof.. I noticed it because it was mounted right behind the A/C unit and the thing hung out past the rear of the roof at least 18 inches?? this looked a little strange but it got the job done.
good luck and let us know how it goes.
Rodney


Posted By: dongizmo on 05/23/05 06:55pm

I picked up a 76 Travelcraft 23' last August, (it has the 360 engine) I am currently repairing the main fuel tank, it is a 36 gal plastic, the guy I bought it from told us he thought the change over valve was bad
, (he said the orig owner told him) what I found is a 6" crack in one corner of the tank, and another 3" one along the side. I am taking it in tomorrow to a plastic shop to see if they can weld the crack.
(I found out during my discussion with the welder he has a 75 MH)
Now to figure where all the hoses go that were disconnected.....
I hope to have the tank back by this weekend so I have a extra day to install it
Don



Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/23/05 07:38pm

I would be looking for a new or good used tank if it were me Don. If there are that many cracks, their may be more to cause you greef down the road.
good luck


Posted By: dongizmo on 05/23/05 07:49pm

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

I would be looking for a new or good used tank if it were me Don. If there are that many cracks, their may be more to cause you greef down the road.
good luck

I'm considering that also, I am taking the tank in, if the welder says he can do it, and the price is right, the shop I am taking it to is a plastic fabrication shop, if they say scrap it I will. here is where I am taking it:http://stellarplastics.com/

I have searched on line for a replacement tank and have not found a suitable replacement.
(there are lots of 22 gal. steel tanks )
Don


Posted By: xchawk on 05/25/05 06:50am

Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/25/05 07:27am

xchawk wrote:

Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith


when you say over heating is the coolant boiling out of the radiator or is the temp just increasing to the top end of the gauge?
are you pulling anything when overheating and what is the outside temperature when this occurs?
what parts are you having to get that that fit the 400? are you sure of the engine you have? small blocks have the distributor in the rear of the engine while the big blocks are in the front.

I just inspect the clutch fan for leakage in the front area of the clutch. the fan should turn with some restriction when cool and when warm should turn a bit harder. I don't know of any way to accurately test the clutch on the fan. I have seen a guy drill and put a bolt right thru the clutch to lock it up but I sure wouldn't recommend doing that. it also make quite a roar with the thing locked up like that.
Rodney


Posted By: xchawk on 05/25/05 01:04pm

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

xchawk wrote:

Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith


when you say over heating is the coolant boiling out of the radiator or is the temp just increasing to the top end of the gauge?
are you pulling anything when overheating and what is the outside temperature when this occurs?
what parts are you having to get that that fit the 400? are you sure of the engine you have? small blocks have the distributor in the rear of the engine while the big blocks are in the front.

I just inspect the clutch fan for leakage in the front area of the clutch. the fan should turn with some restriction when cool and when warm should turn a bit harder. I don't know of any way to accurately test the clutch on the fan. I have seen a guy drill and put a bolt right thru the clutch to lock it up but I sure wouldn't recommend doing that. it also make quite a roar with the thing locked up like that.
Rodney


The parts I needed were gaskets, and the distributor is in the front of the engine so it must be a 400. Doesn't or hasn't boiled over yet, Pulling a 16x8' trailer and the hotter it is outside the hotter it runs. "gauge climbs in upwards of 220 when normally down around 170 to 180 degrees on the gauge. Hill's, Head winds and trying to drive faster then 60mph all cause the gauge to climb. When I slow down it cools right off.
Thanks


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/25/05 01:27pm

I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.


Posted By: xchawk on 05/25/05 02:00pm

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.



So it's a 440 and not a 400? the parts store keeps saying 400 so is there a difference? The Air cleaner is clean, I'll check the plugs and timming before the next trip.
Thanks
Keith


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/25/05 06:52pm

40 cuibic inchs!!
the difference between the 400 and 440, the stroke is more, 3/16 I think?
both are great engines but I would what a 440 I a motor home.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/25/05 09:39pm

xchawk wrote:

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.



So it's a 440 and not a 400? the parts store keeps saying 400 so is there a difference? The Air cleaner is clean, I'll check the plugs and timming before the next trip.
Thanks
Keith

Only sure way to know is to check the numbers stamped in the block...usually coated in harden grease and dirt (known technically as gunk). Second best way is to look at the manufacturers plate...assuming a previous owner didn't swap engines, which is unusual in motorhomes. It's also possible to decode the serial number, which usually has the original engine encoded...I don't have the decode charts handy but I'll try to look them up.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/25/05 09:54pm

xchawk:

Back around page 24 of this thread, you said your MH was a 1978. If so, look at the the 4th or 5th number of your serial number. (Some Dodges in that era had a single letter model identifier at the beginning of the serial number...others had two letter model identifiers, thereby pushing everything else to the right.)

A - 440-3
D - 440-1
J - 400-1
R - 413-3

My guess is you'll find an A or R...most motorhomes had the -3 engines.

BTW - The 5th or 6th digit should be a 7 or 8, for the year. (Your motorhome maybe a '78 built on a -77 chassis.) The third or fourth digit should be a K or C, which designates the GVW.

If none of the above fits, let me know and we'll try harder to figure it out.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/25/05 10:08pm

looking at the engine from the front of the home to the right of the distributor {about 1.25 inches} cast in to the block will a flat area about 1.5 in X 2.5 just in front of the valley tray. this may be covered by A/C or brackets but if that flat spot is there it is a 440 the 400 and 383 engine's don't have that boss in that location.
btw the boss on the 440 is where informaion was stamped when the engine was built along with the stamp 440. also as Griff said on the side of the block looking from under the vehicle will be the cast in large numbers the size of the block. and the date to.


Posted By: xchawk on 05/26/05 06:34am

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

xchawk:

Back around page 24 of this thread, you said your MH was a 1978. If so, look at the the 4th or 5th number of your serial number. (Some Dodges in that era had a single letter model identifier at the beginning of the serial number...others had two letter model identifiers, thereby pushing everything else to the right.)

A - 440-3
D - 440-1
J - 400-1
R - 413-3

My guess is you'll find an A or R...most motorhomes had the -3 engines.

BTW - The 5th or 6th digit should be a 7 or 8, for the year. (Your motorhome maybe a '78 built on a -77 chassis.) The third or fourth digit should be a K or C, which designates the GVW.

If none of the above fits, let me know and we'll try harder to figure it out.


Thanks for the information. the 5th letter in is a J and I found a universal tag on the valve cover with a punch mark through the 400-1. So I believe it is a 400. The 6th digit is a 7 so again it must be as you said a 77 chassis. Now I'm hoping that a 400 makes a good long lasting motor for a motohome. 55,000 miles and going strong, just get it to run a little cooler on the highway and all should be great.


Posted By: xchawk on 05/26/05 06:37am

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

xchawk wrote:

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.



Intake was tight, but carb bolts were very loose. Still checking plugs. I'll let you know after my next trip if this helped.
Thanks


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 05/26/05 07:13am

That's good you know what engine you have, there are many parts interchangeable between the B and RB engines you have the B the RB stands for Raised block {added stroke}. Tbe water pump and housing, timng cover, oil pan and pump, heads and valve train {execpt pushrods} all interchange. the intake and valley tray are smaller on the 400.
I build a 400 engine for my 66 coronet a few years back using the 383 rods and crank since I had them {steel crank and the rods are a little lighter}. This is one of the best engines I have ever built, the 400 has the same stroke as the 383 the extra cubic inches come from the larger bore. the pistons in a STD 400 are larger than in a 440. It's a sweet combination.
A few other things to take a look at if you haven't already is the vacuum booster for the brakes... they operate off the vacuum of the engine and if totally shot and leaking can cause a lean condition. if the engine is idling smoothly you proabbly don't have an air leak but you can take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the intake and carb flange with the engine running.. if you notice an increase in RMP or any change in the engine you may have a leak. You can also with the engine running and the air cleaner off take a rag and slowly cover the top of the carb,, this should slow and choke the engine. if the engine picks up RPM you have a vacuum leak somewhere. The reason I am concerned about vacuum leaks are the 400 and 440's use a steel shim gasket for both the intake and the heads from the factory. after time they will rust, and cause leaks. my clipper had the oem head gaskets and when I was running for long periods after shutting the engine down it would boil over. this was due to the old head gaskest leaking coolant between the cylinders and water passages. The only fix for this were new gaskets and to have the heads milled.
good luck


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/26/05 01:20pm

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

That's good you know what engine you have, there are many parts interchangeable between the B and RB engines you have the B the RB stands for Raised block {added stroke}. Tbe water pump and housing, timng cover, oil pan and pump, heads and valve train {execpt pushrods} all interchange. the intake and valley tray are smaller on the 400.
I build a 400 engine for my 66 coronet a few years back using the 383 rods and crank since I had them {steel crank and the rods are a little lighter}. This is one of the best engines I have ever built, the 400 has the same stroke as the 383 the extra cubic inches come from the larger bore. the pistons in a STD 400 are larger than in a 440. It's a sweet combination.
...snip...

Mr. Mopar knows more about the big blocks than I do. I had a '66 Dodge Polara with a 383 in it. Loved that engine. Sounds like the 400 is an upgraded version.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 05/27/05 06:23pm

A new tank from Dodge shouldn't be TOO expensive being that it is plastic. I have the same 36 gallon plastic tank on mine...


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 05/27/05 06:25pm



Hey...I dig that "spoiler" that you have on the bottom under the front bumper...mine is mysteriously absent and looks like it is missing something...gunna have to try to figure out where i can pick one up...


Posted By: jssussex on 05/27/05 08:20pm

MH with a Dodge title says 1981 dodge sportman. RV was made by Mobile Traveler with a MH # F44CD9V726590 - what does that tell me. The engine is a 440.

Second question - the roll out awning is showing pinhole wear in the UV cover. Is there anyway I can lay another layer of material over this to reinforce this before it fails. The rest of the awning looks fine.

This is our first motor home and we are excited about modifying and decorating it to our liking.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/28/05 02:43am

jssussex wrote:

MH with a Dodge title says 1981 dodge sportman. RV was made by Mobile Traveler with a MH # F44CD9V726590 - what does that tell me. The engine is a 440.

Working backwards from the rightmost character:

726590 = Sequential serial number
V = Warren assembly plant
9 = 1979 chassis model year
D = 440-1 series engine
C = 10,001 - 14,000 pound GVW class
F44 = Unknown (my books don't show those letters/numbers but those are usually the model and body type.)

Important Note: Federal law states that the model year for title purposes is designated by the final manufacturer, even though the vehicle identification number (VIN) is designated by the chassis manufacturer. The result is what is known as "split year" vehicles. In my case, the MH manufacturer said it was a 1970 model, even though it was built on a 1969 chassis, so 1970 is what the title says. The serial number, assigned by Dodge, definitely says it's a 1969 chassis.

In your case, it appears that Mobile Traveler used a 1979 Dodge chassis to build a MH that they identified as being a 1981 model. (That was about the same time that various manufacturers started engaging in "model year creep")

What does this all mean? Not a thing until it's time to buy parts for the chassis, engine, or drivetrain. Then, it avoids a lot of confusion and incorrect parts to know the chassis model year.

I don't have a clue about your awning. Might want to ask a better fabric store or a drapery shop.

Enjoy your motorhome. They're frustrating, aggravating, annoying, etc. but they're essential to creating some wonderful memories. (In other words, it's the best money I've ever spent...and spend...and keep spending. But, I've gotta get it in shape for the grandchildren.)


Posted By: bcovey on 05/28/05 03:11am

Any Dodge Motorhome Chassis owner is welcome on the Travco email list; we have owners from the 1959 models onwards!

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/travco/


The Travco Motorhome Mailing list, for owners and enthusiasts of the Travco, and Dodge Motor Home from 1959 on. Learn about the Dodge Motor Home Chassis, trade tips for service and find parts. All Dodge Motorhome Chassis-based motorhome owners are welcome here. Foretravel built Travco/Avco motorhomes are also supported here

We have 284 members and can usually answer any question you may have regarding any Dodge-based RV.

Please mention your DMH interest when you apply as membership is moderated to prevnt spam.

Brent Covey
Vancouver BC


1977 Chevrolet C20 3+3 Deluxe Camper Special 8200 GVWR, 454-THM400-3.73 axle


Posted By: jssussex on 05/28/05 06:19am

How do you lube the aluminum awning tracks. I'm sure there is a trick or some sort of dry slide. I'm a woodworker so if no one suggests anything I'm going to try the johnson paste wax (the plain old stuff) It works great on the tables in my shop for sliding and corrosion.

I'm having a similar problem with the grey water sliding gate vale for the drain. It sticks and slides poorly although the Black water valeve seems fine.


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 05/28/05 07:51am

I used silicone spray on my awning rails and also when i replaced awning fabric. worked good


Posted By: HungarianDude on 05/28/05 04:59pm

Jsussex... Sun will kill the Johnson's.... use silicone. Do you know what brand dump valves you have? Most have the handle stem enter through a recess-mounted rectangular plate that's held by 4 ss screws.... the whole valve assy then just pulls right out (AFTER dumping and flushign with bleach!!! lol). You'll see an o-ring around the plate... good idea to replace it. Pay CLOSE attention to the paddles as they come out... they look the same, but have an in/out side. Clean the valve paddles and stems real well, then coat 'em with silicone grease.

For maintenance, once in a while, wipe the stems clean while they're open for dumping and spray with silicone... you'll never have a sticky valve again.

Good luck.... Andy


Posted By: A100 on 05/30/05 06:59pm

My American Clipper ran hotter than I liked but like your's would cool down when I slowed down.
Pulling my race van to a race in Rockingham NC I did a back to back test under similar weather conditions with WaterWetter. I knocked 12 to 15 degrees off running temperature.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 05/30/05 10:31pm

jssussex wrote:

MH with a Dodge title says 1981 dodge sportman. RV was made by Mobile Traveler with a MH # F44CD9V726590 - what does that tell me. The engine is a 440.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Working backwards from the rightmost character:

726590 = Sequential serial number
V = Warren assembly plant
9 = 1979 chassis model year
D = 440-1 series engine
C = 10,001 - 14,000 pound GVW class
F44 = Unknown (my books don't show those letters/numbers but those are usually the model and body type.)


The F44 is the model and body type.
Here is what it breaks down to:

F4 = MB400 - model number
4 = MB4 Hi Line Cab - body style


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/31/05 01:29pm

RobinHoodRV wrote:

The F44 is the model and body type.
Here is what it breaks down to:

F4 = MB400 - model number
4 = MB4 Hi Line Cab - body style


Figured it was something like that, just didn't have the books that specifically stated such.


Posted By: munkalido on 05/31/05 07:40pm

Mine is a MB400 (as the vin is F44CD6V1xxxx) and the Chilton I bought to help with repairs is for full sized vans, but doesn't include MB400.

Is there a repair manual, generic like the Chilton, available?? Or is it close enough? (Chilton's #20420, Chrysler Full-Size Vans, 1967-88 repair manual)...


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 05/31/05 08:36pm

munkalido wrote:

Mine is a MB400 (as the vin is F44CD6V1xxxx) and the Chilton I bought to help with repairs is for full sized vans, but doesn't include MB400.

Is there a repair manual, generic like the Chilton, available?? Or is it close enough? (Chilton's #20420, Chrysler Full-Size Vans, 1967-88 repair manual)...


That's about as close as you're going to get, unless you're willing to get one of the professional shop manuals. There are a couple of places that have reprints (or CD-ROMs) of unique older manuals. Try a google for MB400.


Posted By: 78Dreamer on 06/01/05 01:13am

hi all the wife and i are in the process of buying a dreamer class c 25 footer wich has a dodge 360 not sure of the chassis though it is in really good shape for a motothome that is almost 30 years old lol. so we will be doing the payment thing for awhile but she is well worth it it is the only class see i have seen yet that has a step up into the kitchen wich we love it also has all tinted windows and what we call bay windows this must have been top of the line for 78 good to see a place for all of us to get help and talk


Posted By: scorpicus_1 on 06/01/05 12:35pm

Hello all!:

I bought a 20 ft.1977 Dodge MB400 Lindy that sleeps six (Over cab bunk, and two tables that make into beads) here in Cedar Rapids, Iowa for $400.00 about a month ago. It didn't run,(wouldn't even turn over) and had to be pulled down our alley to our house. The next day I had it running though. Aparently the people who had it had messed with the main power cable that runs from the Starter relay to the battery,lol.
I had to rebuild the bunk above the seats. Fun,let me tell you. Then I had to replace the manifold gaskets. One was leaking, and they had put the other one on backwards.ROFL!!.
Funny part is that I had it running before replacing the Manifold gaskets, but it wouldn't stay running once ya put it in gear. But now that The new gaskets are in, it stays running but the starter is going out. So I'll buy a new starter.
Ya know, finding a manual for one of these things is impossible! I've even looked all over the web for one. But since they are'nt made anymore I can't find one. I wanted to find one that had wiring diagrams for the MotorHome section, cause the people I bought it from mangled the wiring and plumbling systems while they were trying to fix it themselves. Is there anyone out there who has a manual for the Motorhome part?
I've got some pics of mine that I can show ya!If I can ever figure out how to add them here...Here is the url though. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/scorpicus_1/album?.dir=b255
I thought about trying to make a canopy/ awning for mine since it was missing when I bought it, but really need to see some pictures of how the original looks close up before I'll know where to begin.
But luckily the cranking TV antenae still works and there are no leaks! And it has the bathroom with the toilet,shower,and sink all in one,lol. You can sit on the toilet, take a shower and wash your hands all at once. That's pretty unique in my opinion!
Money has been tight since I just finished recovering from a Broken neck,shattered ankle and heel.(Now have artificial ankle and heel). But am seriously thinking about trying to come up with my own design for an easy to make Awning for a 20' motorhome. You know the old saying, "Jack of all trades....." Since the injuries I can't do the same field of work. So I went back to the old trusty ones. I build ,repair, and program PCs at home now. And my boy and I are trying to get our Lawn Mowing service back in operation here in Cedar Rapids,Iowa.
Maybe we'll see ya out there some time soon!

* This post was edited 06/03/05 01:28pm by scorpicus_1 *


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 06/01/05 10:03pm

munkalido wrote:

Mine is a MB400 (as the vin is F44CD6V1xxxx) and the Chilton I bought to help with repairs is for full sized vans, but doesn't include MB400.

Is there a repair manual, generic like the Chilton, available?? Or is it close enough? (Chilton's #20420, Chrysler Full-Size Vans, 1967-88 repair manual)...


I purchased one of those service manuals on CD from:
www.moparmanuals.com/mopar/main/home.asp

It is better than the Chilton but only covers the Dodge section. The motorhome section will not be included since it is built by a 3rd party and NOT Dodge. It does cover the cut-away cab (used by the MH builders).

I have used it to rewire the entire engine compartment twice now (pesky squirrels) and had no problems.

By the way, the part number for my MH was 81-370-7012 which covers "1977 Dodge Compact & Plymouth Voyager"


Posted By: munkalido on 06/02/05 02:03pm

Thank you, Robinhood. I'm going there now to see what I find!


Posted By: meffordfamilyproject on 06/03/05 06:28pm

Hello fellow dodge motorhome owners!!

Our family is the proud owner of a 73 class A, Dodge Swinger motorhome with a 318 engine!!! The "moose" (Big, slow and ugly..but not for long) as we call her is currently being torn apart in a grave attempt to salvage her beauty and restore her usefullness. Does anyone know where to get parts for these classic motorhomes?? We took the large rear window out since we need to repair the wall and then realized that the inside window molding may be difficult to replace?? It is about 2-3 inches wide and presses into the channels on the inside of the window. Anyone who has made major reconsrtuction attempts and would like to share some tips, please do so. My spirit is warmed to see so many others who love these old creaures.

We are going to replace the 318 engine with the marine heads?? with an 87 318 to remedy the inability to find a replacement radiator that outlets on the proper side for the water pump... 2 years of looking and we could not locate a radiator. So we are putting in a newer engine and keeping the high performance heads so we can find replacement parts.

Tootles


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 06/03/05 06:58pm

sounds like great fun you have going there. Any good radiator shop should be able to recore your radiator with no problem.. they would use your tanks so everything will fit as before. if I were to got to the trouble of repacing the engine I would go with a 360 ci in or better yet a 440 but that would take replacing the transmission and some other parts to make it fit. if going to a newer engine be sure and make sure the engine is balanced correctly. the 360's are balanced externally not sure of the newer 318's this means there are counter weights welded to the tourqe converter and the harmonic balancers are also weighted.
have fun..
Rodney


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 06/03/05 07:35pm

My vin# is F44CD7V007116...

According to some info above, the 5th character being a D indicates it is a 440-1, as opposed to a 440-3. What is the difference?

Also, what other information can I get off this VIN? I am sorry to ask, but I just can't bear going through all these pages looking for the "chart" someone was kind enough to post.

What I DO know is:

(a) Manufacturered 9/76
(b) Dodge 440 with a 4 bbl carb...though it appears that it was converted from a Holley 2 bbl carb at one time. I have a receipt for both, including one indicating labor for converting from 2-bbl to 4-bbl Carter

Looking at the above VIN, I my best GUESS is that though manufacturered 9/76, it is a 1977 model...??


Posted By: Shaggy-360-Dodge-RV on 06/03/05 09:22pm

FrizzleFried wrote:

My vin# is F44CD7V007116...

According to some info above, the 5th character being a D indicates it is a 440-1, as opposed to a 440-3. What is the difference?

Also, what other information can I get off this VIN? I am sorry to ask, but I just can't bear going through all these pages looking for the "chart" someone was kind enough to post.

What I DO know is:

(a) Manufacturered 9/76
(b) Dodge 440 with a 4 bbl carb...though it appears that it was converted from a Holley 2 bbl carb at one time. I have a receipt for both, including one indicating labor for converting from 2-bbl to 4-bbl Carter

Looking at the above VIN, I my best GUESS is that though manufacturered 9/76, it is a 1977 model...??


FYI, 440's never came with a 2bbl only a 4bbl carb.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/03/05 09:56pm

Shaggy-360-Dodge-RV wrote:


FYI, 440's never came with a 2bbl only a 4bbl carb.


Are you sure? I've seen a couple of Mopar big blocks with two barrel carbs. Not very common but they did exist. I had a 383 with a two barrel on it.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/03/05 10:05pm

FrizzleFried wrote:

My vin# is F44CD7V007116...

According to some info above, the 5th character being a D indicates it is a 440-1, as opposed to a 440-3. What is the difference?

Also, what other information can I get off this VIN? I am sorry to ask, but I just can't bear going through all these pages looking for the "chart" someone was kind enough to post.

What I DO know is:

(a) Manufacturered 9/76
(b) Dodge 440 with a 4 bbl carb...though it appears that it was converted from a Holley 2 bbl carb at one time. I have a receipt for both, including one indicating labor for converting from 2-bbl to 4-bbl Carter

Looking at the above VIN, I my best GUESS is that though manufacturered 9/76, it is a 1977 model...??

I don't know what the difference between a -1 and a -3 engine. Been wondering that myself but haven't had time to research it yet...Mr. Mopar, can you enlighten us?

Yup, it's a 1977 model...at least that's what the serial number says...mid-70's was when manufacturers started model year creep...kinda like the fact that I can buy the July issue of Classic Trucks magazine in late May.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 06/03/05 11:41pm

I dunno...all I can say is that I have documentation from 1988 showing work done to a 2 bbl Holley carb...then there is documentation showing that the owner at the time bought a 4 bbl Carter and paid for parts and labor for a 2-bbl to 4-bbl conversion?


Posted By: jssussex on 06/04/05 08:01am

Hi,
Would like some suggestion on fixing some of these problems.

1. the findow gaskets have shrunk, what are my options? They won't go back and stay in place.


2. The Frig gasket is shot at the bottom and I can't find anyplace that carries a replacment. Any suggest or alternate solutions.


3. The decorative striping on the truck has that beautiful crackle design and my wife would like me to paint over it. None of it is pealing, but is this possible.



Thanks for any suggestions


Posted By: jssussex on 06/04/05 08:11am

Oh I guess I should at least show you the whole RV. This site sure has great information - especially this group.

1979 Mobile Traveler Dodge Sportsman with 440 engine


This is a great locking storage unit added to the back.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 06/04/05 08:24am

http://www.hehr-international.com/contacts.htm

The windows look simular to what are in my clipper you might check with them
I was able to replace all of the seals and lock strip for about 80 $
nice looking home.
Rodney


Posted By: dongizmo on 06/04/05 09:52am

FrizzleFried wrote:

A new tank from Dodge shouldn't be TOO expensive being that it is plastic. I have the same 36 gallon plastic tank on mine...

Frizzled,
on a whim I took a look under my 95 ram b250, it has a 35 gal plastic tank I think with a little engineering on the fuel lines will work, now I wonder what was the last year that used the mechanical fuel pump? the tank on my 95 has the electric fuel pump in it, if I can cross to a year/model that has a mechanical pump, the connections for the fuel lines should work.
now, what about the gauge........


Posted By: Poi Dog on 06/06/05 11:58pm

Hey Scruffy5! I'd like to order the Edelbrock carb, linkage adapter & the spread bore to square thingy. Found all but the last one with the part# of 1932. Where'd you find that? I need to get rid of that Carter thermo quad so's I kin pass DEQ here in Orygun. Found the Parts Express web site... nice!

C'mon Good Buddy... In need of yer help.

thanks...... PD


To go where everyone has gone... before!


Posted By: new v'er on 06/07/05 09:50am

Just got back from our first outing of the season. Things are running fine and just about everything is replaced or covered with a monogrammed one thing or another. I'm getting a faint but nagging propane smell. I've checked the connections with a match (just kidding)really I used the soapy water method and all of the connections appear leak free.

I have two suspicions. 1. There are a number of copper line/frame contact points without any hint of padding. 2. The outer surface of the original tank is very pitted.

Do these tanks begin to leak? How long will four burners stay lit after the main valve is shut tight with approximately 12 feet of 3/8 line?

Thanks in advance.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/07/05 03:41pm

new v'er wrote:

Just got back from our first outing of the season. Things are running fine and just about everything is replaced or covered with a monogrammed one thing or another. I'm getting a faint but nagging propane smell. I've checked the connections with a match (just kidding)really I used the soapy water method and all of the connections appear leak free.

I have two suspicions. 1. There are a number of copper line/frame contact points without any hint of padding. 2. The outer surface of the original tank is very pitted.

Do these tanks begin to leak? How long will four burners stay lit after the main valve is shut tight with approximately 12 feet of 3/8 line?

Thanks in advance.

Most propane dealers won't fill a tank if there's any doubt about it. Plus, the tank walls are fairly thick so it's take deep rust to create a leak. The tank valves will sometimes develop a slight leak.

Take the tank to a reputable propane dealer and have them check it. I'm talking about a propane wholesaler or large dealer, not the places with a fill-em-up sideline.

BTW - if you pick up a used tank that has weird, usually blue-ish colored, corrosion around the valve, get rid of it...the corrosion might mean the tank was used by a meth lab to hold anhydous ammonia...which is very corrosive and has probably weakened the tank...most dealers have been alerted to keep an eye out for the tanks but not all pay as much attention as they should...(Oh, yeah, if it did hold anhydrous ammonia, the police would probably be interested in it...and where you got it.)

The same propane dealers can do a leak test on your propane system. My dealer did a test on my home system when they installed my big tank.

With those propane lines, your burners will keep going several minutes (5? 10?) after you turn off the main valve.

Does your stove (or other appliance) have a standing pilot light? Do you have to use a match to light the stove burners? If yes to both these questions, then you may have a partially plugged pilot light orifice...enough to keep the pilot light from staying lit but not enough to close off the gas.

Do-it-yourself leak test: Close main valve and wait at least six hours. Without opening the main valve, try lighting a stove burner. If the burner lights and initially burns as strong as when the main valve's open, you're probably okay. (I'd still get the system professionally checked at least every other year.) If the burner doesn't light or burns weakly, you've got a leak somewhere.

I know this is long...hope it helps.


Posted By: artwin on 06/12/05 07:54pm

Hello out there!
My wife and I just bought a 1976 Dodge based Class C Empire. I believe it is the B300 series on June 10th. 1 Ton chassis with Full floating rear axles. It has a 360, needs new exhaust, tires,brakes are not quite right, big cleaning, the roof a.c. does not work, nor does the cab a.c.
Just found out the fridge may not be working. Although we may be doing something wrong with setting the controls. We'll find out.
I have 1 question about tires:
It has 16.5 inch wheels, with 8.00X16.5 radials. After stopping by a few tire stores, it seems that while those tires are available, they are not as readily available as are the P metric or LT metric series with another rim size such as 16 inch. Has anyone changed over there old dodge to the 16 inch wheels or other size, and if so, what size tires did you go with? I'm concerned about the duals rubbing in the back if I go with something too wide. The 8 inch tires would translate into just under a 205 MM width metric tire.
Thanks in advance and let's all enjoy the summer RVing! We hope to here, we'll need to after working on it !
Art in N.C.


Posted By: Shaggy-360-Dodge-RV on 06/12/05 08:45pm

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Shaggy-360-Dodge-RV wrote:


FYI, 440's never came with a 2bbl only a 4bbl carb.


Are you sure? I've seen a couple of Mopar big blocks with two barrel carbs. Not very common but they did exist. I had a 383 with a two barrel on it.


Mopar probably made millions of 2bbl big blocks, but they didn't build 2bbl 440's for passenger cars and trucks. I have been told that 2bbl RB 383's and 440's were built for irrigation pumps and other industrial applications so one of those manifolds could have found it's way onto the 440 in this rv....


Posted By: Koldei on 06/13/05 10:00am

WHEELS..

I'm wondering if anyone had advice as to what years/vehilces (one-piece) wheels would fit on a 1972 Dodge M300 that has splits.

*seems* older dodges
and many years of fords?

might anyone be able to narrow that down for me

lookign for "economy" replacements, hopefully take-offs froma junkyard

thanks
Robert


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/15/05 08:37am

artwin wrote:

Hello out there!
My wife and I just bought a 1976 Dodge based Class C Empire. I believe it is the B300 series on June 10th. 1 Ton chassis with Full floating rear axles. It has a 360, needs new exhaust, tires,brakes are not quite right, big cleaning, the roof a.c. does not work, nor does the cab a.c.
Just found out the fridge may not be working. Although we may be doing something wrong with setting the controls. We'll find out.
I have 1 question about tires:
It has 16.5 inch wheels, with 8.00X16.5 radials. After stopping by a few tire stores, it seems that while those tires are available, they are not as readily available as are the P metric or LT metric series with another rim size such as 16 inch. Has anyone changed over there old dodge to the 16 inch wheels or other size, and if so, what size tires did you go with? I'm concerned about the duals rubbing in the back if I go with something too wide. The 8 inch tires would translate into just under a 205 MM width metric tire.
Thanks in advance and let's all enjoy the summer RVing! We hope to here, we'll need to after working on it !
Art in N.C.

May I suggest you pose your question to Goodyear at www.goodyear.com. My 1970 Explorer class A (1969 Dodge M300 chassis) has H78-16LT tires on it. The tires also have "Replaces 7.00-16LT" on the sidewall. Goodyear said LT215/85R16 is an appropriate replacement.

I posed my question to several tire manufacturers plus the Tire Rack. All except Goodyear either didn't respond or responded with a glorified shoulder shrug.

Converting older system tire sizes is tricky and I'm verifying Goodyear's answer before buying new tires. (I may even buy new rims to get rid of the existing split rims and make sure everything fits.)

I will not make any recommendations as I am still digesting a lot of technical info on tire sizes. I do know that finding the right tire is more than simply finding a tire that will fit the rim.

Staying with tires that are the same diameter is important to maintaining speedometer readings. If you change tire diameters, you will need to change speedometer gears to keep your speedometer accurate. In my case, the old tires are 29.5" in diameter and are correct for the 36 tooth gear I have. The LT215/85R16 tires that Goodyear recommended are 30.5" in diameter and I'd have to change to a 35 tooth speedometer gear to maintain accuracy. (The formula to figure the correct number of teeth is not complex but does require that you know your rear axle ratio.)

In your case and mine, the fact that we have duals raises an additional concern. With dual tires, the tire's section width compared to the rim's setback becomes an issue. If the tire's section width is too big, the duals may rub against each other and tear themselves apart at the sidewall. Even if they don't rub, they may be close enough to allow road debris to become trapped between them.

I know this raises more concerns than helps but it's worth knowing ahead of time. Good luck.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/15/05 08:47am

Koldei wrote:

WHEELS..

I'm wondering if anyone had advice as to what years/vehilces (one-piece) wheels would fit on a 1972 Dodge M300 that has splits.

*seems* older dodges
and many years of fords?

might anyone be able to narrow that down for me

lookign for "economy" replacements, hopefully take-offs froma junkyard

thanks
Robert

I basically answered your question in my previous reply. I've looked into replacing the split rims on my 1970 M300 and the only place that seemed to be able to help me was a trailer supply house here in Fairbanks, Alaska. i couldn't find a web site for them but I can get you their number is you want to talk to them.

The few junkyard rims I found would cost almost as much as I was quoted for new rims. (Within $5.00 each)

If you do replace your split rims, would you be interested in selling one of them? I may stay with my splits and would need a spare if I do.

I'm turning on Email notifications in case your respond to this post.

P.S. I almost forgot to mention: In case you're considering it, I'd stay away from junkyard take-off's for tires. They're hard to find and, even if they have enough tread, they're probably too old to reuse. If you still want to try them, I'd decode the manufacturing date and pass on any that are more than seven year old. (I just threw away what appears to be a perfectly good tire because it's twelve years old, even though it's obviously never been used.)


Posted By: Koldei on 06/15/05 09:35am

G>The few junkyard rims I found would cost almost as much as I was G>quoted for new rims. (Within $5.00 each)

I'm looking at ~$100 per wheel new, I'd *assume* a chicaoland junkyard would have used ones for less, but i'm having a time trying to find what years/makes will swap out. basically what will fit on an 8 lug 6.5" circle

G>If you do replace your split rims, would you be interested in G>selling one of them?

i'm interested in selling them all actaully 7 split rims (mounted) and one single wheel (mounted)..unless i keep that one for *my* spare

I'm turning on Email notifications in case your respond to this post.

G>P.S. I almost forgot to mention: In case you're considering it, I'd G>stay away from junkyard take-off's for tires.

yeah i want to go with all new rubber, but the cost of new rubber AND new wheels is 50%+ of what i paid for the whole RV


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/15/05 10:00am

Koldei wrote:

G>The few junkyard rims I found would cost almost as much as I was G>quoted for new rims. (Within $5.00 each)

I'm looking at ~$100 per wheel new, I'd *assume* a chicaoland junkyard would have used ones for less, but i'm having a time trying to find what years/makes will swap out. basically what will fit on an 8 lug 6.5" circle

G>If you do replace your split rims, would you be interested in G>selling one of them?

i'm interested in selling them all actaully 7 split rims (mounted) and one single wheel (mounted)..unless i keep that one for *my* spare

I'm turning on Email notifications in case your respond to this post.

G>P.S. I almost forgot to mention: In case you're considering it, I'd G>stay away from junkyard take-off's for tires.

yeah i want to go with all new rubber, but the cost of new rubber AND new wheels is 50%+ of what i paid for the whole RV

Six Roblees quoted me $79.00 each for new steel "Ford" solid rims that will fit my motorhome and take a LT235/85R16 tire. I think the price for "Dodge" rims (LT215/85R16) was the same.

In either case, you're going to have to change the speedo gear. If you decide to tackle that yourself, contact me and I'll walk your through it, with pictures. (It's not difficult, just involves crawling under the vehicle and getting greasy.)

If you're interested in pictures of my project, go here:

http://forum.eastwood.com/showthread.php?p=2954#post2954


Posted By: fourthclassC on 06/16/05 08:37pm

Hi, I gotta tell you, I have had the fever for Mopar based RV's for a long time. I used to have a 73 Gladding del Ray 20' I spent my honymoon in mostly crusing the outer banks of NC. Both were on MB300 chassis with 360cid 2bbl engines. I call the 73 the Alfa Romeo of motorhomes because it is so nimble. It has a solid state isolator and 100 amp alternator. It also has a grey water tank with common termination valve like modern motorhomes.(orginally it did not have a grey water tank, back in 73 draining grey water on the ground was not such a big deal) These motor homes are great and substantially higher quality then many new rigs. I have alot of background with these and would be glad to answer any questions.

{edited to coform to the Forum Rules -Jim}

* This post was edited 06/17/05 10:33am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: ssvette on 06/18/05 03:04pm

I own a 24' 1978 establishment Dodge 440, sat for 12 years with the pervious owner before we decided to take her on for 200.00. Well I replaced the Carb with the Edelbrock which was a great move replaced the cooling system-Fan-Radiator-water pump. Then went after the interior new carpets and covers which we did ourselves, new tires last. She passed smog here in California no problem and we have done two trips at 1000 miles each. Problems we me to fix steering still to loose and now have a surge under heavy loads any suggestions?


ssvette
http://community.webshots.com/user/ssvette


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/18/05 03:44pm

ssvette wrote:

I own a 24' 1978 establishment Dodge 440, sat for 12 years with the pervious owner before we decided to take her on for 200.00. Well I replaced the Carb with the Edelbrock which was a great move replaced the cooling system-Fan-Radiator-water pump. Then went after the interior new carpets and covers which we did ourselves, new tires last. She passed smog here in California no problem and we have done two trips at 1000 miles each. Problems we me to fix steering still to loose and now have a surge under heavy loads any suggestions?

May I suggest posting your questions about steering and surging at www.mopartruckworld.com. A lot of experienced Mopar fans hang out there and the General Truck Help board is specifically for questions like this.

I'd put your question up myself but it'd be much better to cut out the middle man and go there yourself.


Posted By: dongizmo on 06/18/05 05:56pm

WooHoo!
I found my fuel tank! I spent a couple hours searching a old junk yard and came across a Dodge chassis! I pick up the tank on Monday!
Don


Posted By: Poi Dog on 06/24/05 05:22pm

Scruffy5 wrote:

Well I thought maybe this thread passed on!Edelbrock Carbs are super.Anyone interested,Edelbrock #1411 750 cfm ,#1932 spread bore to square and lastly #1481 chry throttle adapter. grand total $333.10 shipped to my door,had it in 4 days,online from Performance Parts Express.Straight forward installation! Of course I took mine apart to check float level etc,but i just wasted my time.they say there preset at the factory and there not lying,Took me longer to change the spark plugs then to do the carb install.Anybody still using the old thermoquad this conversion I highly recommend!

{Edited to remove for sale item}

Have a great day!


Well, I just installed this combo. Runs ok. If I slow the RPM's via the idle screws it gets rough. After calling the Edelbrock HELP line I found out this is not a direct replacment for the Carter ThermoQuad. I know, it was never said it was. I also found out this is not an emissions legal carb due to its lack of vacuum ports.

It did go on quite nicely tho. Sure hope I can get this thru DEQ!

Just an FYI for y'all out there.

..........b


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 06/25/05 11:52am

Does any one have a suggestion on where to find some parts for repair. Was out this past weekend and had a gust of wind bring a 12 inch diameter oak down onto the motorhome. Having a hard time finding a new refridge roof vent and new corner edge seal. Damage wasn't to bad. Have to go in and replace a couple roof rafters and some side wall studding. Probably a total fix for less than $200. Thanks in advance for any info.


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 06/26/05 07:55am

Poi Dog wrote:

Scruffy5 wrote:

Well I thought maybe this thread passed on!Edelbrock Carbs are super.Anyone interested,Edelbrock #1411 750 cfm ,#1932 spread bore to square and lastly #1481 chry throttle adapter. grand total $333.10 shipped to my door,had it in 4 days,online from Performance Parts Express.Straight forward installation! Of course I took mine apart to check float level etc,but i just wasted my time.they say there preset at the factory and there not lying,Took me longer to change the spark plugs then to do the carb install.Anybody still using the old thermoquad this conversion I highly recommend!

{Edited to remove for sale item}

Have a great day!


Well, I just installed this combo. Runs ok. If I slow the RPM's via the idle screws it gets rough. After calling the Edelbrock HELP line I found out this is not a direct replacment for the Carter ThermoQuad. I know, it was never said it was. I also found out this is not an emissions legal carb due to its lack of vacuum ports.

It did go on quite nicely tho. Sure hope I can get this thru DEQ!

Just an FYI for y'all out there.

..........b
The 795 cfm I beleive is the one for replacement but the money difference is a lot.sure glad I live where I do!


Posted By: new v'er on 06/27/05 03:40pm

Hi Unionguy,

I picked up my fridge vent at a Camping World Store. I see them in the catalog as well. The "Corner Edge" item? Is that for the side to front or side to back applications? If so the extrusions for my 1976 class c were out of production.

I picked up some 1X3 aluminum angle and formed it to the position with several relief cuts and then overlayed extruded flat molding that receives a vinyl screw cover. The angle was purchased at at a local metal supply and the other extrusion was purchases at a RV service/parts center. The extrusion was predrilled and easy to form over the angle aluminum. The two together look very similar to the original.

If the "Corner Edge" is the top/side extrusion that has a chanel for an awning, your rv parts/service store may have it in stock.


Posted By: munkalido on 06/28/05 02:16pm

Scruffy5 wrote:

Poi Dog wrote:

Scruffy5 wrote:

Well I thought maybe this thread passed on!Edelbrock Carbs are super.Anyone interested,Edelbrock #1411 750 cfm ,#1932 spread bore to square and lastly #1481 chry throttle adapter. grand total $333.10 shipped to my door,had it in 4 days,online from Performance Parts Express.Straight forward installation! Of course I took mine apart to check float level etc,but i just wasted my time.they say there preset at the factory and there not lying,Took me longer to change the spark plugs then to do the carb install.Anybody still using the old thermoquad this conversion I highly recommend!

{Edited to remove for sale item}

Have a great day!


Well, I just installed this combo. Runs ok. If I slow the RPM's via the idle screws it gets rough. After calling the Edelbrock HELP line I found out this is not a direct replacment for the Carter ThermoQuad. I know, it was never said it was. I also found out this is not an emissions legal carb due to its lack of vacuum ports.

It did go on quite nicely tho. Sure hope I can get this thru DEQ!

Just an FYI for y'all out there.

..........b
The 795 cfm I beleive is the one for replacement but the money difference is a lot.sure glad I live where I do!


It is the replacement (#1905) which I bought ($509 @ Summit Racing). Now I have problems when it gets hot "loading up" and dying. This actually only happens when putting along in traffic or backing up to park, but it is nerve racking! I'm going to call Edelbrock to see if they got a solution.


Posted By: Poi Dog on 06/28/05 04:53pm

munkalido wrote:

Scruffy5 wrote:

Poi Dog wrote:

Scruffy5 wrote:

Well I thought maybe this thread passed on!Edelbrock Carbs are super.Anyone interested,Edelbrock #1411 750 cfm ,#1932 spread bore to square and lastly #1481 chry throttle adapter. grand total $333.10 shipped to my door,had it in 4 days,online from Performance Parts Express.Straight forward installation! Of course I took mine apart to check float level etc,but i just wasted my time.they say there preset at the factory and there not lying,Took me longer to change the spark plugs then to do the carb install.Anybody still using the old thermoquad this conversion I highly recommend!

{Edited to remove for sale item}

Have a great day!



Well, I just installed this combo. Runs ok. If I slow the RPM's via the idle screws it gets rough. After calling the Edelbrock HELP line I found out this is not a direct replacment for the Carter ThermoQuad. I know, it was never said it was. I also found out this is not an emissions legal carb due to its lack of vacuum ports.

It did go on quite nicely tho. Sure hope I can get this thru DEQ!

Just an FYI for y'all out there.

..........b
The 795 cfm I beleive is the one for replacement but the money difference is a lot.sure glad I live where I do!


It is the replacement (#1905) which I bought ($509 @ Summit Racing). Now I have problems when it gets hot "loading up" and dying. This actually only happens when putting along in traffic or backing up to park, but it is nerve racking! I'm going to call Edelbrock to see if they got a solution.


According to the guy I spoke to at Edelbrock, they do not have a direct replacement for the Thermoquad. He was not very forth coming with info... kinda had'ta drag it outta him! His total answer was "take it to a shop, they should be able to make it work!"
Not the answer I was looking for.....

......b


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 06/29/05 06:54am

Thanks new v'er, the edge molding is the front to back. Being a 73 the local rv place (very small, other than everyday items everything special order) could not find any type of molding in any of their books. Hopefully over the weekend I can get to a large dealer about 80 miles away and check. Your suggestion will be highly considered.

As far as the fridge vent, I was able to scam a temp controlled 12v fan at work. was thinking of possibly installing a forced air heating vent into the sidewall rather than a roof vent. This way when I go winter camping I would be able to close the vent to prevent heat loss. Can you foresee any problems I may have with this set up?


Posted By: new v'er on 06/29/05 07:46am

Unionguy wrote: was thinking of possibly installing a forced air heating vent into the sidewall rather than a roof vent. This way when I go winter camping I would be able to close the vent to prevent heat loss.

Glad I could help the first time, but I don't have a thought on your plan. My idea of winter camping is RV'n in the Keys.

I'll try to send you some photo of the moldings I put on.
Bill


Posted By: munkalido on 06/29/05 08:39am

Poi Dog wrote:


According to the guy I spoke to at Edelbrock, they do not have a direct replacement for the Thermoquad. He was not very forth coming with info... kinda had'ta drag it outta him! His total answer was "take it to a shop, they should be able to make it work!"
Not the answer I was looking for......


Well, they used to market the 1905 as a direct replacement. Perhaps they stopped due to problems... same problems I'm experiencing now. I wish I would have just went to Napa and bought a refurb. Thermoquad and been done with it.


Posted By: TravellinTs on 07/04/05 12:12pm

Just brought home our brand-spanking-new 1975 class C and thought I'd say HELLO. (Okay, so it's not 'brand-new' but sure feels like it to my daughter and me, having just moved up from a 1971 13' Boler trailer.) :-)

It's a Dodge Sportsman with a Bendix Corsair 22' 'house' on the back. Compared to the Boler, we now feel like we're living in the lap of luxury! It's spacious and airy, with all the amenities we need (bathroom with shower, hot water tank, oven, stove, etc.) The furnace is broken, but we live in a fairly mild climate here on Vancouver Island, so I'm not too worried about it, though I'll probably get a new one down the road. (The previous owner said he was told no parts were available for the Coleman furnace that's in it.)

Anyhow, just wanted to say hi to all -- am looking forward to making some memories in our new 'little house.'

Terry (a 'she', not a 'he')
and daughter Tiana

** The Travellin' T's **


Terry (a 'she', not a 'he')
Daughter, 11 yrs
Cranky Kitty (passed away July 17/05)
Lhasa Apso, 1 yr

1975 Dodge Sportsman / 22' Corsair



Posted By: HiTech on 07/04/05 12:17pm

Welcome. A plug in electric heater powered by the genset or shore power if plugged in can kick out a fair amount of heat. The the fan for the furnace still works, it can help distribute the heat.

Jim


Posted By: TravellinTs on 07/04/05 12:27pm

Thanks for your suggestion, HiTech.

The furnace fan doesn't work, but there is a small fan in the back vent. I presume that would probably just suck the hot air out in a hurry though...

Most of our camping will be at forestry reserve campgrounds with no hookups, and our MH doesn't have a generator yet. (Not sure if I'll buy one down the road or not.) If we get chilly, I do have a small catalytic heater, or can always turn on the stove and boil some water - that seems to warm it up in a hurry.

Terry (a 'she', not a 'he')
and daughter Tiana

** The Travellin' T's **


Posted By: hwguru on 07/08/05 11:11am

Well, here I am, another one of the silent majority it seems. I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair 19' built on what i believe is a 1978 MB300 chassis with a Dodge 360 2bbl. I had previously owned a Sportsman 200 van with the same engine, and had no problems with it at all, ran like a top. In fact, that experience was the largest factor in me buying this MH. I got arround 13MPG on the freeway, and about 8 arround town, but I also got about 11MPG while towing. With this unit, I am having all types of overheating problems. I replaced the thermostat with a 160 (it had a 180 in it when i pulled it) and i dropped the radiator cap down to a 7# from the 16. this seemed tio help SOME but it STILL runs considerably hotter than i like when pulling a hill or in warmer than 65 degree's. in hot weather, I'm lucky if on the freeway it stays at about 1/3 of the way on the guage, and when pulling a hill in that type of weather, I'm lucky if it doesn't overheat, and get vapor lock!

Since owning this unit, I have not given it a complete tunup, but I have pulled the plugs cleaned and inspected them. I think I'll do a complete tuneup with points, condensor, rotor and cap then adjust the timing.

anyone know what the timing SHOULD be on this vintage engine?

Thanks in advance,

Phil


Posted By: eric_blair on 07/08/05 01:47pm

Well, you can add us now too. I just never liked trailers because it is so nice to have the convenience of the space and amenities right there while you are driving.

We just picked up a beaten up Dodge Fireball - 1977, MB400 360 engine.

Who said they were slow? The previous owner said the vibration goes away at 70 mph, but I found 55 pretty comfortable too.

After close examination of the engine (and much cleaning of the engine), I am amazed that it works at all. Most of the vaccuum lines are disconnected, pluged or connected wrong. The electrical looks like a puzzle that was solved wrong.

There also appears to be some water damage all the way out to the fram on the rear left 1/4 over the sink/stove area.

But the drivetrain is very powerful. I figure no matter the cost of renovating or replacing the living quarters, we have a good deal.

And it is a blast to drive. Sort of like a one car parade....

Take Care,

Eric


Posted By: Poi Dog on 07/08/05 06:31pm

eric_blair wrote:


Who said they were slow? The previous owner said the vibration goes away at 70 mph, but I found 55 pretty comfortable too.


And it is a blast to drive. Sort of like a one car parade....

Take Care,

Eric


I have a 79 class C Beaver. It vibrated when I got it. Told the mechanic to replace the carrier bearing. He said it didn't need replacing. After crawling under the home (with him) I grabed it & proceeded to move it all around. Then said "Please replace it"...
No more vibration!

.......b


Posted By: eric_blair on 07/08/05 08:45pm

Poi Dog wrote:

eric_blair wrote:


The previous owner said the vibration goes away at 70 mph,


I have a 79 class C Beaver. It vibrated when I got it. Told the mechanic to replace the carrier bearing. He said it didn't need replacing. After crawling under the home (with him) I grabed it & proceeded to move it all around. Then said "Please replace it"...
No more vibration!

.......b


I'm starting with lubing up the drivetrain. I doubt it has been done in decades. I will probably try rotating the drive shaft 180 degrees as well. Supposedly the transmission was rebuilt and possibly it was reinstalled wrong. Along with whomever rewired the firing order.

I noticed there is about 6 inches of exposed spline in the driveshaft where the rear connects to the front. That doesn't seem right to me. Should at least have a cover on it.

Take care,

Eric


Posted By: markit63 on 07/16/05 05:31am

I purchased a 78/79 Dodge Grand Slam 22' and to my amazment everything works but required a little minor repaire to get some of the stuff up and running. The MH has 61k miles and the drive train
is in exelent running order, I had to replace the header gaskes on both ends and do a oil (Mobil 1 Syn)change. Next will be a gear oil change on the rear end and seal check (as suggested by mechanic). The refrig will have to be replaced, i have removed the old one and
have a sorce on a good used one. I'm happy so far, I payed 2k and for the most part lucked out on everything working even the Kohler
4.5 Gen but it needs some repair to the starting circut as my mechanic has set up a manual start button and you have to manualy ignite the feild (this wouldnt be fun in the rain.LOL)


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 07/16/05 03:37pm

Welp...the wife and I just made the decision to KEEP the old rig and bring it with us when we go to Idaho in March. We were considering selling the thing, but we have put so much time and effort in to it that we just couldn't do it. I have a feeling that when we are ready to upgrade, it is going to be a difficult thing to part with this, our first RV.


Posted By: fourthclassC on 07/16/05 04:17pm

My best RV ever. 73 Tioga 19'. Same layout as a 98,000$ chinook. Sleeps 5 and fits a regular parking spot. Many updates and much better quality then my new 94 Tioga 24D. Too bad Dodge stopped supplying cutaway vans to the RV industry. I have a lot of Mopar info (mostly MB300) and would be glad to share.
Thank you

{Edited to conform to the RV.net usage policy}

* This post was edited 07/16/05 04:33pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: taomom on 07/17/05 04:10pm

Hi!

We just bought (on Ebay) a 1977 Dodge Brougham Sportsman...360 engine, I think. We drove it from Dallas to Tampa and experienced some minor issues: the windshield wipers quit in the rain, but we just had to replace that little plastic piece and that was fine; we discovered that the gages stopped working when we turned the headlights on, but that seems to come and go at will; the dash a/c is not working, but the seller said he'd pay to fix that; and the water is stinky, but I got help here on another forum and hopefully that will be OK soon, too.

It has about 85,000 miles but the preevious owner replaced the engine just 7,000 miles ago. It's got air shocks so that makes for a gentle ride and oh, yeah, it still has some of the orange shag carpet around the top bed!

Does anyone have an owner's manual they could sell me or tell me where I can buy one?

WE LOVE OUR MOTORHOME!!

Angela B

Angela and kids
Puppy, our Great Pyrenees guard dog
1977 Dodge Brougham Sportsman (blue and white)


Posted By: taomom on 07/17/05 04:11pm

I also wanted to ask...I've seen around these forums that some parks don't allow older vehicles. Have any of you run into that?

Angela B


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 07/18/05 12:50am

Welp....went camping this last weekend....at Vale Lake in the Temecula Valley, California. Hot was the order of the day, and, unfortunately, my A/C decided to stop working after about 2 hours. I do believe it ran out of freon, though I am not 100% sure. It is the original unit and is 27 years old, so I guess I can't complain all too much.

I am going to have the freon checked...depending on the results of the "once over" I will decide whether to have this old unit worked on or just purchase a new unit. I can get a new Carrier 13.5K BTU unit for about $500 shipped via ebay. My current unit is a 11K BTU model so I am sure a 27 year newer larger model will cool my 22' rig quite handily. I am a LITTLE concerned that the portible PowerWise 3500 generator I just purchased WOULDN'T fire up a 13.5K unit...though I am pretty confident it will considering that it fired up that 11K OLD ass unit without issue and I would imagine that power consumption has dropped in these units over the last 27 years?!?

We shall see. Bottom line is that $500 is $500 and considering that I need to drop some new meat on the rig ASAP, things could start to get expensive ...especially for a $3,900 dinosaur desert rig.

So, of course, I am hoping it is just the freon...


Posted By: HiTech on 07/18/05 11:12am

After 2 hours? I wonder if it iced up.


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 08/02/05 10:04pm

Hi folks, I just bought a Dodge 440 Sportsman 1976 (38,oo K original miles) as my first RV and took a trip to MOAB and Leadville. Only problems I encountered were broken AC and alternator belts.
I have significan smell of Propane which seems to be coming from the cooking range. Any suggestions how to install a propane detector and which one is the most cost effective?


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 08/02/05 10:10pm

Sorry, another question. Is there a way to power the overhead AC without a generator on the road. The installation is suggested at over 1300 dollars?? which I obviously do not want to spend

Thanks


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/02/05 10:17pm

Sportsman76 wrote:

Sorry, another question. Is there a way to power the overhead AC without a generator on the road. The installation is suggested at over 1300 dollars?? which I obviously do not want to spend

Thanks

An large enough inverter should work, provided your engine alternator is up to the task. You may need to upgrade your alternator also.


Posted By: HiTech on 08/03/05 07:30am

The inverter, batteries and alternator to do this might cost more than a genset.


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 08/03/05 07:32pm

Thanks for the info. When you said this is going to cost more than a gen set did you mean more then approximately 1500 dollars as they are quoting me a price for 3500 Gen at 299 and approximately 12 to 1300 dollars to install it?

Can you also elaborate on the set up that will accomplish this ie inverter, batteries and the alternator?
Thanks


Posted By: xchawk on 08/04/05 06:22am

Hey great thread, we have a 1978 Dodge class C that's in good shape with a new fridge, and everything working. It's our second Motorhome and since we can't drive two we are thinking of selling this one. It has about 56,000 miles, a 400 engine and a newly rebuilt transmission. Does anyone have a idea on what it might be worth?

Thanks,
Keith


Posted By: markit63 on 08/04/05 08:20pm

FrizzleFried wrote:

Welp....went camping this last weekend....at Vale Lake in the Temecula Valley, California. Hot was the order of the day, and, unfortunately, my A/C decided to stop working after about 2 hours. I do believe it ran out of freon, though I am not 100% sure. It is the original unit and is 27 years old, so I guess I can't complain all too much.

I am going to have the freon checked...depending on the results of the "once over" I will decide whether to have this old unit worked on or just purchase a new unit. I can get a new Carrier 13.5K BTU unit for about $500 shipped via ebay. My current unit is a 11K BTU model so I am sure a 27 year newer larger model will cool my 22' rig quite handily. I am a LITTLE concerned that the portible PowerWise 3500 generator I just purchased WOULDN'T fire up a 13.5K unit...though I am pretty confident it will considering that it fired up that 11K OLD ass unit without issue and I would imagine that power consumption has dropped in these units over the last 27 years?!?

We shall see. Bottom line is that $500 is $500 and considering that I need to drop some new meat on the rig ASAP, things could start to get expensive ...especially for a $3,900 dinosaur desert rig.

So, of course, I am hoping it is just the freon...


Did you check the filter? If you do end up getting a new unit try to get the one without the rotery compressor, luckly mine came with the
reciprecating type compressor (mmmmmmmmmuch longer life) I would have to look at it to see what make and modle it is though. i know its not a carrier and as a A/C contractor I dont hold that co in high reguard as far as quality.lol


Posted By: sandman41 on 08/04/05 09:50pm

Am I like some of the others here? I have a 1975 Dodge Travel Queen that every things works. I have spent a lot of time just making it (for lack of a better word "to my liking"). I think it will be hard to sell it and go to something newer. In my opinion the newer rigs aren't built like the older ones. Maybe I am wrong. Just seems that way to me. Any body else out there that are attached to the older rigs like I am.

Just asking


Posted By: HiTech on 08/05/05 12:00pm

A 30 amp inverter with a high peak start can run >$2000. You'd need something like 300 amps at 12 volts to run it. I don't think you can get an alternator that big so you'd need the biggest one you can get, and many many batteries so the AC did not cook them with the high draw - maybe 10 or more? Even then you could not run all day. Plus that's a lot of weight, space and maintenance. So say maybe $1000 in batteries plus $1000 to get them mounted and all wired in? Plus some kind of charge distribution system. Plus the price for a heavy duty alternator installed.

You might do better to get a non RV genset, and plug into it with your shore cord. Some people have done this successfully driving down the road. 3000 watts will run most RV AC's. 2000 will run some. I do not know all the pros and cons of this approach, only that it has been used by some.


Posted By: regal5575 on 08/05/05 12:07pm

Hi, Jerry & Diane checking in as "Dodge Based RV owners". We have a 1970 Dodge Travco that we inherited from my Parents. It has been a pretty good Motorhome, the parents bought it new and were only going to keep it for a few years. Well they fell in love with the lifestyle and sold their summer cottege instead of the motorhome. It travels from Mi to Fla and various side trips. It is 27 foot long Class A, with a 318-3 engine and about 140,000 miles.

* This post was edited 08/05/05 08:44pm by regal5575 *


Jerry & Diane



Posted By: HiTech on 08/05/05 12:48pm

Nice to get a one owner home that was wonderfully maintained!


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 08/05/05 11:18pm

Thanks for the reply. By your estimates it would be unwise to try the non Generator approach. I think I will stick with the non RV generator


Posted By: Noodleman on 08/08/05 11:59am

I JUST bought a Dodge Delta RV. The data plate on the door jam says it's based on a 1979 Dodge F 40. The previous owner didn't know engine size or much anything else about the rig. We liked the way the inside was layed out and took it. I've just about got the multiple switches figured out but I'm having a hard time with the fridge and a mystery switch on the wall between the kitchen and dining areas.
Question, how level is level? I've parked it in my driveway while a rip out the SHAG carpeting and it's ppinted downhill. I plugged it in, but the fridge isn't getting cold.


Posted By: Southernsuzy on 08/08/05 03:22pm

Hi we have a 1978 Dodge Free Spirit... Love it....... Suzy


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 08/08/05 09:02pm

Hi Noodleman, I am a very new Dodge 1976 Sportsman owner as well. I had similar problems. I had to have it very, very leveled indeed before I got the fridge to cool. It cooled the best in one of the RV parks where it actually froze the food (very level ground). It takes about 12-18 hours of constant plugging in before it actually cools well enough. Another tip is to keep the food that needs more cooling at the back of the fridge.


Posted By: Noodleman on 08/09/05 01:08pm

thanks for the info on leveling the RV. The name on my rig is a Delta, but when I search for it I can't find any info. Maybe it's me, but the big DELTA letters on the side made me believe that would be the name to look for? I'm getting sucked into the "fix me up" vortex. I can't walk by the thing without going in and dinkin around with something.


Posted By: Old Bob on 08/09/05 05:10pm

Hi All
Iam glad to find this site. Got a 1978 Lindy 28 ft Dodge.Had it for 2yrs but didn't go anywhere cause it needed tlc a lot of tlc, Had a water leak at the back window so took it out and found a lot of bad wood .The window was not the problem,it was the roof and the side molding. Took out all the wood from the back, pealed off the skin and found lots of rotten wood. It looks like the roof needs something done to it. When the back was taken off the roof developed several other leaks way up front. So to replace the roof is it better to use one sheet of aluminum or try to save the one that is on now? This rv has 66000 mi on it . The engine and trans run great. My carpentry skills are measure 5 times cut once and still get it wrong. Wood putty is my friend.I am retired but limited on funds. The rv we liked cost $68000. It's either fix this one or stay home. Sorry if I talk a lot but I need some advice. Thanks for any help


Posted By: jrceo on 08/10/05 01:23am

HI ALL DODOGEets. Im a newbie to this world.. im 27,male,,5'7'' 130lbs, green eyes ,slim lean n tight, clean cut, with no MISSING teeth.& single ,im searching for a blonde around my stats, blue eyes, white/yellow blonde hair only , that wants to rv this awesome country of ours- USA.okok..
l love the idea of owning MY first 1975 dodge sportsvan(NO SMOG NEEDED in california--YESSS ),make: dodge fourwind, VLF class: AB bodytype model: MH ,MP:G,MO:LV, type veh: 12J.. 19ft. 360 V8 MOPAR enigne,im the 3rd owner, i bought it last month on the 22nd of july ,I had it towed from malpitas california to santa rosa ,ca(93.6miles),using my tripple AAA card, boy did it come in handie, the motorhome had an exhuast leak, this dry powder black smog would kill any human in 5minutes flat.. dam dodge exhuast stinks... that my brother and I could not bare to have in our lungs.thanks tripple AAA.

Its a very clean ,small enough to creeep into a parking space comfortably and long enough to do back flips in.l live in califronia ,northwest.,50miles north of sanfrancisco , in the city of santa rosa, county of sonoma. BEAUITFUL place to rv through.. highly recomend it toall. ok. I just bought mine and I just can'nt figure out what class my rv is, is it an A,B, or C class. umm it says class AB? Im thinking of needing warmth and quiteness when I begin to rv through the union, how should I stay warm? What should I put on the walls to keep the outside noise down? what tools ,handtools,protection aginist thiefs, everyday tools, would you dodge MHers recomend me carring by my side at all times? umm. I do have a AAA card, 100mile tow in either direction to start. thanks all I LOVE this site.
P.S. if any of you guys now of a single blonde-with NO kids or missing teeth. ,please send her my way. thanks all.jrceo.


Posted By: sandysz on 08/10/05 10:42am

Hi all, Newbie here. I have a 1979 Jaymini 2300. It has a 440, but do not know if it is a 4bbl or not. Before my tuneup I was getting 13-15 mpg sometimes. Now I am getting 8mpg, and have been told that I need to get my carb rebuilt. Plus I now have an intake leak. But that is not my question.....I turned on my wipers and they made 2 passes and quit. I went to Advance Auto parts. Took the new wiper motor and attached the connector. Made sure that the casing was grounded. It did not work when I turned on the switch. The switch is off, low, high, and you push it to the side for wash. I can hear the wash motor, plus when checking the lugs on the connector with the switch on high. The white and purple wire lugs are hot. Please, does anyone have any advice. The connector looks like a "P" shape. The white is on the bottom of the "P" and the purple is on the bottom of the curved part. It is 4 lugged. Thanks, Sandy


Posted By: sandysz on 08/10/05 11:19am

Hi, Yes my Dodge 440 Class C is a 4bbl. The side plate in the driver's door says that it is a Fargo, but in my glove compartment are the Sportsman plates that go on the sides of the van front end. To get parts I usually tell the person to check under the CB300. That usually works. forgot to add this in my above post. Thanks, Sandy


Posted By: Noodleman on 08/10/05 05:29pm

OK! found out, using some grease cutter and a LOT of rags, I have a Dodge 440 with a Thermoquad(sp?) carburator. The carb is the shiniest thing on the engine. Deal for purchase included getting it smogged. rebuilt the carb. I crawled around underneath looking at things, no leaks to speak of. did notice as I was driving it home that when i dropped it into low it complained in a high pitched SQUEAL. I thought it was the fan belts, but they look fairly new.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 08/10/05 05:49pm

Noodleman wrote:

OK! found out, using some grease cutter and a LOT of rags, I have a Dodge 440 with a Thermoquad(sp?) carburator. The carb is the shiniest thing on the engine. Deal for purchase included getting it smogged. rebuilt the carb. I crawled around underneath looking at things, no leaks to speak of. did notice as I was driving it home that when i dropped it into low it complained in a high pitched SQUEAL. I thought it was the fan belts, but they look fairly new.

The belts still could be loose. (I've found that new belts, especially less expensive ones, sometimes stretch, requiring a retightening shortly after installation.)

That 440 puts out a lot of umph and those bigger tires put a lot of strain on the power steering pump. It's easy for the pump to generate enough resistance to cause the belt to slip in the pulley, especially if the pump is low on fluid.

1. Make sure the power steering pump is full.

2. Make sure the belts are tight.

3. Turn off the dash air conditioning.

4. Turn off everything electrical that you can safely.

5. Make sure the squealing is coming from the front of the engine. (Most likely is but it doesn't hurt to make sure.)

6. Try a better grade of belts.

If none of this works, you may have a more serious problem.


Posted By: Southernsuzy on 08/11/05 03:31pm

Hi all we have a 1978 Dodge Free Spirit class C , does anyone out there have one or know anyone withone........ would like to chat on repairs... Suzy...


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 08/11/05 07:22pm

Old Bob, as far as replacing the metal on the roof, I would suggest looking into having a qualified roofer give you a price on a rubber roof. Most times you cannot by any aluminum sheet long enough to cover in one piece. If you noticed while take your roof off, about every eight feet there was a joining crimp. Unless you or a good friend have a metal brake, the rubber roof may be a less costly installation.


Posted By: Old Bob on 08/11/05 08:18pm

Thanks for the info Unionguy 1019. I climed up on the roof and you are correct, there is a fold every few feet.Going to check out the rubber repair. Put in the side windows but had a hard time finding the caulking. Got some from the rv dealer a few miles from here, he had one roll of buytal? and another place had a roll of tape putty. The buytal was not thick enough so had to double it. 20 ft did one window.The tape putty worked great(grey looking caulking stuff)Found a place to get it now. The guy that had this rig before was a worse carpenter than me ( unbelieveable but true) He screwed the roof down in the back through nothing but the insulation. No wonder it has leaks.You live in a great part of Pa. I had a camp in Barney town Huntington county and got up your way lots of time. I'll keep you posted on the roof. Thanks Again


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/11/05 08:34pm

Southernsuzy wrote:

Hi all we have a 1978 Dodge Free Spirit class C , does anyone out there have one or know anyone withone........ would like to chat on repairs... Suzy...


Hi Suzy.
what you got a question about? there is a lot of good help here.
I don't spend enough time here myself but I will try and check back from time to time. This thread has really GROWN since I was here last.
TTFN
Rodney


Posted By: sandysz on 08/11/05 08:53pm

Mr. Mopar.....Hey.......My windshield wipers did 2 swipes and then quit. I took a new motor and plugged it into the connector and grounded the casing. It did not work. but when the switch is on high the white wire and the purple wire lugs are hot. on low the white wire and brown wire lugs are hot. is that the way that it is supposed to be? does that mean that it is the wiper motor??? Thanks for the help..........Sandy


Posted By: gmantwo on 08/12/05 05:44pm

Hey all, just bought my first motorhome. A 1974 dodge with a 2500 mile 318 on a 1 ton frame. Most of the interior has been redone except for the dinette cushions. Has new paneling, AC, small apartment style electric fridge-new, carpet and a new water tank. A newer generac generator has been set in place but isn't completly hooked up. I'm pretty handy so I hope not to have too much trouble getting it going. Can I run the generator going down the road? The only AC is the roof unit. Should you run the propane water heater while moving? I've ordered a shop manual, but it only covers the chassis. Anywhere I can find a manual on the camper section. Hope to enjoy this thing for a while and am VERY anxious to get going. Greg


Posted By: gmantwo on 08/12/05 09:08pm

One other thing, the skin on the left and right side of my camper, right where the overhang above the cab starts, has splits going up towards the top. I'm thinking that's from wind pressure against the overhang, but I'm not sure. They are caulked, but if wind pressure is doing it, I'm wondering about anchoring the overhang to the cab or bumper in some way??Greg


Posted By: jrceo on 08/13/05 08:11pm

hi , my mechanic ROBBED my $$.. $100 hr for labor at 10 hrs. dam what a ripp off.. he didnt even get my rv fixed.. the problem is this. when I connect the negative batter cable ,it want to start? why., i changed the risitor and the starter relay. so I dont now what could be the problem maybe a wire along the way??? help. the starter has just been replaced.. what should I be looking for? help. thanks jr


Posted By: donran on 08/14/05 12:45am

We just bought a 1976 Dodge Sportsman with a Surveyor on the frame. I find it just facinating besides being old and worn, everything seems to work, so far.

What I was curious is is how strong they are. How much weight can the roof hold. Are the various shelving on the inside part of the structure that holds up the walls. Can you strip stuff out, or do the walls fall down?

It came with a manuel for the Dodge truck and its 360 engine. It appears it will need a lot more inspecting and care then a car, and is mush less forgiving of maintenance ignors then a car.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/14/05 07:02am

sandysz wrote:

Mr. Mopar.....Hey.......My windshield wipers did 2 swipes and then quit. I took a new motor and plugged it into the connector and grounded the casing. It did not work. but when the switch is on high the white wire and the purple wire lugs are hot. on low the white wire and brown wire lugs are hot. is that the way that it is supposed to be? does that mean that it is the wiper motor??? Thanks for the help..........Sandy

if you are getting power to the motor and the motor is grounded properly and the motor doesn't work I would try another motor.
When my wipers were giving me the same problem I found that the ground thru the bolts to the cowl weren't making contact so I ran another ground wire from the case to the cowl an haven't had any more problem. you might give your old motor another try and be sure your grounds are completing the circuit.
Rodney


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/14/05 07:13am

jrceo wrote:

hi , my mechanic ROBBED my $$.. $100 hr for labor at 10 hrs. dam what a ripp off.. he didn't even get my rv fixed.. the problem is this. when I connect the negative batter cable ,it want to start? why., I changed the resistor and the starter relay. so I don't now what could be the problem maybe a wire along the way??? help. the starter has just been replaced.. what should I be looking for? help. thanks jr

Sorry to hear that after all your expense it's not fixed. why did you pay him if it was still had the same problem? is this intermittent or does it try and start every time you hook up the cable?
Check the wires going to the starter relay for any hot spots or or where they may have been spliced or repaired. sounds like you have fused wires in contact all the time. I would also check the ignition switch and wires and plug connectors to it for melting and fused wires. what year home do you have?


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/14/05 07:31am

donran wrote:

We just bought a 1976 Dodge Sportsman with a Surveyor on the frame. I find it just facinating besides being old and worn, everything seems to work, so far.

What I was curious is is how strong they are. How much weight can the roof hold. Are the various shelving on the inside part of the structure that holds up the walls. Can you strip stuff out, or do the walls fall down?

It came with a manuel for the Dodge truck and its 360 engine. It appears it will need a lot more inspecting and care then a car, and is mush less forgiving of maintenance ignors then a car.


I sure wouldn't change to much interior supports to the roof panel unless you compensate for the support in another area. From my experences up on the roofs they are made of 1 x 1's or a little larger and the tin is laid over the top and the interior panels are install. That's not much support unless there is support holding up from the inside up. When I am on the top of my home I try an walk on the edges and stay away from the center as much as possible. You sure don't want to break any seals and create leaks that could be prevented.

Yep your home has all the maintance of an auto and a home on wheels. you need to take care that your holding tanks are in good shape, you should have a 12 volt battery for the coach that needs to be kept charged and inspected from time to time. I found my battery was being boilded dry when I had the home plugged in to 110 power. it took me 2 batterys to figure out the electric control panel which has a 12 volt charger built in it for the battery was over charging. an easy fix after I relized what whas going on. you shouldn't run any propane and have the valve at the tank off when driving. this is a law in some states. you need to take care in colder weather that you don't freeze up your H2O lines and tanks. got to drain everything even the hot water heater and I will blow air thru the lines to make sure all is clear before storing it for the colder seasons. this is just a few things that come to mind, I'm sure others can add to the list.
Rodney

* This post was edited 08/14/05 07:44am by Mr.Mopar! *


Posted By: donran on 08/14/05 10:12am

Thanks, that answers the support problems. Today I start playing with the garden hose and anywhere water should run in the RV. I hope when I open the dump valves and run water in i'm not surprised in a bad way. I think there must be an isolation circuit someway. The alternator was charging something for about 6 hours during the 400 mile drive home and the lights all work on the inside. I found some batteries in the outside cubby holes. I wonder if there is a built in charger, doubt it, but I had better check, and battery levels.

The underbelly propane tank has rust all over it, I figure to clean the rust of and paint it with black rustoleum.

This is a situation where somebody tried to save this RV by spending some good money on it (engine valve job, custom carburator and intake manifold, new gas tank and lines, new hoses and heater valves), but it ended up sitting for some time, maybe a year then they traded it in on a car and I bought it.

Some times when vehicles sit for a very long time the tempered glass windows just shatter. One of the over cab small side windows did that. The dealer replaced two of the duel rear tires, because of bubbles in them and one went flat. While the previous owner did the heads, the mains and rings look bad with low oil pressure and oil usage. The automatic tranmission works great but looks old. I had to unbolt the seat to get it to back enough to drive it home. This is probably the most serious problem, since the shower and toilet are right behind the drivers seat. Perhaps removing the back of the seat and using the shower compartment as a back stop will be enough..need to test.

Still, for my first try at owning an RV I'm happy.


1976 Dodge Sportsman, Suveyor rig, "rustic" condition.



Posted By: hwguru on 08/14/05 10:24am

Hey Mr. Mopar!

I've got a question:

I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair, that did not come with a rooftop A/C unit. I have come across one that i can purchace cheap that does work. Am I going to need to build a frame in the roof to support the weight of the A/C unit? or should there already be one there, and i just need to remove the middle roof vent, and cut out enough rooof material for it to fit?

thanks


8.5 MPG, regardless of what RV I drive.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/14/05 06:08pm

hwguru wrote:

Hey Mr. Mopar!

I've got a question:

I have a 1979 Fleetwood Flair, that did not come with a rooftop A/C unit. I have come across one that i can purchace cheap that does work. Am I going to need to build a frame in the roof to support the weight of the A/C unit? or should there already be one there, and i just need to remove the middle roof vent, and cut out enough rooof material for it to fit?

thanks

when I removed my a/c unit cuz I didn't really think I needed it. I was able to buy a vent to fit the hole no problem. you will have to see how it measures up. you just need to pay attention to the support around the area you are mount the unit see how the extra weight affects the roof. pay close to the the new seal you will be using that it truly is sealing the roof to the A/C unit
Good luck
Rodney


Posted By: Noodleman on 08/15/05 01:36pm

Godd advice Griff, I'll look at that soon as I'm ready to take the beast back out on the road. My wife has me working cosmetics at the moment. Did discover one interesting thing when i took the dog house out to look for motor size. There is a HOLE in te transmission housing on the top. It's cut, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be there, I'm just wondering if it shouldn't have a plug in it? I can look down intot eh innards of the transmission. Not sure I should be able to do that.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/15/05 01:48pm

Noodleman wrote:

Godd advice Griff, I'll look at that soon as I'm ready to take the beast back out on the road. My wife has me working cosmetics at the moment. Did discover one interesting thing when i took the dog house out to look for motor size. There is a HOLE in te transmission housing on the top. It's cut, so I'm guessing it's supposed to be there, I'm just wondering if it shouldn't have a plug in it? I can look down intot eh innards of the transmission. Not sure I should be able to do that.


That hole in the bellhousing area of the transmission is where you would aim your timing light to time the engine. This is assuming the torque converer has not been replaced with with one without the timing marks in it. I have seen this happen many times on older Vans and motor homes. I have never seen a plug in the hole and shouldn't really be nessassary.
while you have the dog house off you might take a look at all of the vacuum hoses and line for crakes and brittle areas and if there is any rubber lines going to the carb really check this out good for fuel leaks.

Rodney

* This post was edited 08/17/05 09:58pm by Mr.Mopar! *


Posted By: gmantwo on 08/17/05 07:53am

Can anyone tell me why there are cracks in the outer skin running up the left and right sides where the cab overhang is? Should I try to secure the overhang to the cab or bumper of the cab? Can I run my generator while driving? Greg


Posted By: klingzi71 on 08/17/05 09:40pm

Saw this post and decided to join. We have a 1978 Dodge Jamboreee with a 360 for a motor, 89k miles. Works great in Colorado. Had it for a year and we love it.


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 08/17/05 10:00pm

klingzi71 wrote:

Saw this post and decided to join. We have a 1978 Dodge Jamboreee with a 360 for a motor, 89k miles. Works great in Colorado. Had it for a year and we love it.

Welcome glad to have you aboard


Posted By: landrovercamping on 08/17/05 10:16pm

I purchased a 1975 Dodge Tioga m.h. 3 years ago.Manufactured 11/74 22'on a sportsman MB300.It has a 360 2 barrel carb and runs very strong.I would like to improve my handling in the wind and wondered if air bags would help.I've done a fair bit of repairing and am leaning towards a newer model but still like the Dodge chassis. If any one can help with better handling in windy conditions please post or contact me.,Thanks


Posted By: mavereik on 08/19/05 08:32pm

Hi all, I have a 1976 Dodge Sportsman Built by Jamboree Industries...360 motor
I am having charging system problems at the moment...only had it for 2 weeks though


Posted By: donran on 08/21/05 08:54pm

Today was a facinating day with my 1976 dodge sportman surveyor, about 21 feet.

Went to the local RV place (Sunland California near Tuxford and Lankershim), they wanted $35 for a telescopping brush to clean the RV with, screw that went to Empire Hardware got a much weaker model for $8. I found RV's are actually big and have 4 sides. Then it was time to explore the dump valves for the first time. Naturally since the RV been sitting about a year, I imagin it is mainly empty or at least dried out. Little run off from the grey tank...hossed it out, not much different from the water I washed the RV in...Valves all look good, now the black tank..Maybe some dried something or other in the tank...EEEEKS brown liquid, I'm outa here. I would cost $15 to dump at a place about 10 miles from me...trying to figure some other way to clear this tank without stuff running down the gutter or flying over the freeway. That's what I really want to do is be sitting in the middle of Los Angeles with a tank of sh*t.


Posted By: Noodleman on 08/23/05 12:20pm

Man! I put my Delta into the shop to see what it would take to get it road ready. Ouch. The previous owner didn't give it much TLC. As things broke he just stopped using them! We're doing fluid changes, tune up, shocks all around( they were rusted out, i was driving on the springs i believe)and various other "stuff". total hit around $1100. Then they checked the rear brakes. Rear brakes were siezed up. I didn't have rear brakes. add in approx. $550. Doing new tires next week to get it ready for labor day. The old tires had set for so long they had cracks and basically were splitting themselves apart. far as I'm concerned, the more you use your RV the better it'll last. At least it BETTER last!


Posted By: tulsajohn1 on 08/23/05 12:42pm

I got a 77' dodge 360 Tioga 2 17 ft. It runs good but needs tlc. I am taking it to santa fe next month. Pray for me.......


Posted By: donran on 08/25/05 08:43pm

Well Noodleman you got more repairs that I need. My "previous owner" tried and spend money but got overwhelmed. He probably just got a new one.

Tires seem to be extremely important, lot of stories around here about the blowing out. My major problem is a lose part somewhere in the steering. This adds to "uncertainty" in steering.

I got "RV repair & maintenance manual" from Trailer Life dated 1980. Got it on Ebay for $12.00 bid plus shipping/handling. Very interesting, well worth getting if don't know much about what's going on doing with your RV.

Mean while my support vehicle (suppose to follow the RV around with generator, gas, water, tools) has a burned valve and looking at least $700.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 08/28/05 06:13pm

Well we just returned from our 2nd time out with the "chuck wagon" after repairs from the arguement it had with an oak tree the 2nd weekend in June. Had a good rainstorm last nite, no leaks could be seen. Would have stayed longer but the holding tanks were almost over flowing from the fri. nite party. Made a pot of camp stew, (love to cook over fires, hence the chuck wagon name), had 12 quarts made with 1 1/2 qts left over. Nobody went home hungry. Along with the camp pot also had roasted corn, burgers, dogs and snuck in some game birds from hunting. Got about another 2 months before we will have to chain the tires to go out in the woods. Didn't buy it to set in driveway over winter.


Posted By: Noodleman on 09/06/05 12:29pm

Well, new tires, just finished putting new tile in, getting "The Delta" cleaned and ready for our first trip. Two challenges left. The fridge and the generator. Tried our fridge on gas. I can get an initial light off, then the flame dies. Found a blown fuse, wonder if that coulda caused it? Not being level is the other issue. The generator turns over but it's seen better days. Looks like the fuel lines are dry rotted and will have to be replaced. I'll probably end up either re-doing everything or biting the bullet and dumpin some more cash into having it done for me. Keepin the economy hummin!


Posted By: Mollywood on 09/08/05 04:37pm

I just picked up a 1976 Dodge Sportsman Brougham in very good condition. It has a new rear end, gas tank, and other stuff.
Starts up fast and runs well.
Dodge 380 8cyl.
Though she can stall abit if your too fast on the gas pedal. But I'm hoping once she gets driven regularly she'll be alright.
Just a little 'puddle jumper' for a family of 4 (counting the hound)

And I know very little about this stuff. Any pointers on where get smart quickly on suich a topic please let me know.


Posted By: fourthclassC on 09/08/05 04:41pm

Typical charastic of that vintage dodge 360 2bbl. Even with excellent carb reuild, my 73 360 still had a tendency to stall out after cold start. Learn to feather the gas pedel until its all warmed up. Check the base of the carb for vaccum leaks also.


Posted By: Mollywood on 09/08/05 04:46pm

fourthclassC wrote:

Typical charastic of that vintage dodge 360 2bbl. Even with excellent carb reuild, my 73 360 still had a tendency to stall out after cold start. Learn to feather the gas pedel until its all warmed up. Check the base of the carb for vaccum leaks also.




Thanks much!
The original owner said essentially the same thing.
As a former MG and VW man feathering the gas is my specialty !


Posted By: donran on 09/09/05 05:58am

The previous owner of my 1976 360 Dodge Sportsamn installed the Edelbrock's Performer Series caruretor which was "calibrated and factory flow tested". Also installed the Edelbrock intake manifold and performance cam shaft and lifters. It still stalls when its cold unless you work the pedel to keep it running.


Posted By: Amberbunny on 09/09/05 12:18pm

Mom has a 97 ROadtrek on the DOdge chasis and she wants a Coach House circa 2000 on DOdge 3500. ANy owners with insite on this model please advise.


\Documents and Settings\stephen.kunich\Desktop


Posted By: jrcaneva on 09/09/05 10:26pm

Hello Hello. I just bought a nice 78 440 Dodge Itaska with 80,000 miles and all original. Just need to work out the bugs. What about headers or duals for this is it worth the trouble?


Posted By: donran on 09/10/05 11:50pm

There is some kind of bed in the back of my rv. Kind of looks like it would swing down and set on the table or something. But it doesn't move. I cant seem to find a latch or anything. Anyone got an idea what this is and how it works.


Posted By: munkalido on 09/11/05 12:18pm

jrcaneva wrote:

Hello Hello. I just bought a nice 78 440 Dodge Itaska with 80,000 miles and all original. Just need to work out the bugs. What about headers or duals for this is it worth the trouble?


Doug Thorley THY-109Y-C... Ceramic coated headers $499 @ Summit Racing. You can get them cheaper if you don't get the ceramic coating, which is to help keep the engine compartment cooler.


Posted By: donran on 09/11/05 02:04pm

It was just a shelf that lets down that needed some oil. The bed is pulling the table of some pipe, setting the pipe aside and inserting the table to make the bottom support of the bed.


Posted By: GypZ on 09/11/05 04:44pm

My first Dodge and it's a 1977 Tioga Sportsman 24' with a 440. I'm new to RVing and this one was given to me by my grandpa after it sat for several years. Guess I'm gonna have to hire a handyman to help me get her on the road again. Anyhoo, hello all. Julie


Posted By: donran on 09/12/05 05:52am

What a trip, put water in the RV, no leaks things actually worked. Few flushes and what looked like a dirt bowl flushed down, cleaned itself and sealed. Little weird when your family lines up to use the RV toilet. Found some sanitizer, 8oz does 40 gallons. Of course no one is happy because they don't have hot water, propane is next. The weight of 40 gallons of fresh water (320 lbs) really presses down on the rear duals. Got to find a way to check pressure and fill tires. The dealer put two new tires on the back because one of them went flat and the casing cracked. I found out I don't have an inverter, just an ac inlet that connects to a simple 20 amp charger with a 12.7 output voltage. Think I'll just by a small inverter for the 19" TV. The only generator I have is a 6500 watt Coleman Powermate that is the second loudest generator ever made and known for throwing cranks. Needs a tractor muffler and a spark arrester. When you can actually wash and poop in your RV it makes you feel kind of good.


Posted By: HeatSeeker on 09/17/05 05:49am

Hello everyone, and yet still another one, this one coming out of Northwestern Ohio. 76' Dodge Rockwood with a 360v-8 and only 67,000 miles on it, haven't been able to use this year like had planned don't know whether to keep or to let it go in hopes someone else can get to enjoy.


1976 Dodge Rockwood edition,67,000 miles



Posted By: new v'er on 09/17/05 09:25pm

gmantwo wrote:

One other thing, the skin on the left and right side of my camper, right where the overhang above the cab starts, has splits going up towards the top. I'm thinking that's from wind pressure against the overhang, but I'm not sure. They are caulked, but if wind pressure is doing it, I'm wondering about anchoring the overhang to the cab or bumper in some way??Greg



Wow!! I can't believe all the new folks that signed on ths summer!! Hi to you all.

We've been out with the rig every chance we get. The michigan farmers hate the drought but it makes for GREAT camping. Zero problems with the old girl.

Greg, I'm not sure but if ther is signs of water damage on the panneling on the inside area where you see the splits and or wrinkles in the siding, you may have wood rot in the structure at the top and bottom of the overhang. The overhang may beginning to sag. Try not to overload the loft until you can replace the supports.

Long live summer!!!
Bill


Posted By: donran on 09/19/05 12:34am

Ive been trying to figure what forces are causing my the shrouding on the rear corners to come off and the walls to open. Since the back is not straight but pointed in the rear my conslusion is its downword pressure and the ceiling lowing. Ther are several sources of weight on the real including a spare tire on the outside and a long swing down shelf supported on the wall. I am not sure what is under the paneling for major support but I have heard its 1" x 1".


I think the structual solution is to run a cable from either side under the paneling with a turnbuckle and plates at the end to pull the side back in to the center. This would provide a stetchable support and allow the edges and the shrouding to be resealed and eliminate future strain.


Posted By: Noodleman on 09/23/05 02:28pm

Ugh! we FINALLY got the water situation figured out, the city water connector had been ripped out. Hooked up the hose, turned on the water, had good flow from the bathroon sink, marginal at the kitchen sink and some flow from the shower. I made the mistake of pushing the pedal to fill up the toilet! It filled up, but i couldn't get the flap to release so it would flush. Needless to say it LEAKED! I was able to get the bowl to drain by forcing the flap open a bit. Who thought up the mounting screws for RV toilets? The front bolt is behind te flush pedal. depress the pedal and there it is, in 25 years of whatever that stuff is that collets in there. The rear bolt requires an access cover to be popped off on teh bowl, a 12 inch ratchet extender and a swivel adapter for the 1/2 inch socket. Oh what fun.


Posted By: xxgearxx on 09/23/05 09:26pm

Just got an old Dodge based motorhome..1971.
Does anyone have any info about these?
I plan to recondition it..and one of my first priorities is adding a house battery.
I noticed it has an alternator with an external regulator.
I'm thinking of buying an isolator to charge 2 batteries.
I've seen diagrams on how to fit an isolator, but was wondering if I come off the regulator, or directly off the large terminal of the alternator to the isolato-or from the regulator to the isolator?
I need to know how to do this.
Any info or web-sites that might be helpful?
Also any info about reconditioning these would be a big help.


Posted By: Scruffy5 on 09/24/05 08:43am

Off the battery terminal of the alternator


Posted By: donran on 09/24/05 01:47pm

Finally got my propane, 11 gallons at $2.95 a gallen here in Southern California.

Got hot water, nice. Even the refrigerator works. The one side of the RV continues buckle. I'm goint to have to start to look at what is suppose to be holding it up. whether the cabinets have somehow disnengaged from the floor or the bracdes are all wet and bending..This is what makes these old RV so excitiing and gets the grade 'rustic'.


Posted By: monymon on 09/27/05 09:36pm

munkalido wrote:

Poi Dog wrote:


According to the guy I spoke to at Edelbrock, they do not have a direct replacement for the Thermoquad. He was not very forth coming with info... kinda had'ta drag it outta him! His total answer was "take it to a shop, they should be able to make it work!"
Not the answer I was looking for......


Well, they used to market the 1905 as a direct replacement. Perhaps they stopped due to problems... same problems I'm experiencing now. I wish I would have just went to Napa and bought a refurb. Thermoquad and been done with it.


I just replaced the Thermoquad on my 1979 Mobile Traveller with an Edelbrock Performer carburetor. A square bore to spread bore adapter; Edelbrock P/N 2696 and the associated gasket is all that it took.


Posted By: proceed_net on 09/27/05 11:45pm

Hi, This is my first post. So don't look for past postings. I have a 1977 MB400 Sportsman. I have the Shop Manual (for the B300 chassis) and will scan the whole thing as jpg's. I will post it, any submissions, and any news that I have on a site: www.rvhelp.net. If you want to help, send anything (RV related help) to fruition@lycos.com.

p.s. I don't have the owners manual that explains the camper part of the vehicle. I know nothing about the gray/black water system. My toilet bowl gets only a very small amount of water into it after each flush!
Thanks, Scott


Posted By: HiTech on 09/28/05 10:59am

Welcome Scott.

There are probably 2 levers on your toilet. When you flush them both together you get just a little water after the flush. You probably need to hold the second lever until the water is at the height you like. It is not like a residential toilet where it fills to a pre-determined point.


Posted By: Scrubs5685 on 09/28/05 11:22am

Hello. Just found this site. Thought I would join. Just acquired a 1979 Dodge
Honey with 50k miles. Needed some roof work done due to pooling of water but has been repaired and now I am ready to hit the roads for some fall outings.
Hope to see many more join in on the topic of Dodge based RV's


Posted By: proceed_net on 09/28/05 07:21pm

Thanks, HItech
The john has a single knob. I mean to go out and try more than just one twist and release. It may fill if the release is slow (or paused). The only thing I can think of, is that the knob once released slowly to fill the bowl and has since worn out and just snaps back to close. (thus allowing only a very short time for refill.)


Posted By: donran on 09/28/05 09:29pm

My wife left the pump and shower on till it overflowed. So it was like no water, grey water overflowing, house battery near dead and the rug wet.


Posted By: Dannbo on 11/01/05 10:51pm

Wow! I have just read all 42 pages of this thread. Where is "White Night " these days? I have learned allot in a short time. Very quality reading.
I also have purchased a "new" motorhome this year and already have had great memories with the family. As far as I know it is a 1973 Emperor (as registered at motor vehicle board). I have never heard of this make, nor has it turned up in my searches.
This is what I know so far: It looks like an Empress of the era.Class A, 26ft, 17 1/2" wheels, Dodge chassis with a 440. The coach was mad by HaiCo in Lethbridge Alberta Canada.
Some of the things I would like to know: How many ton chassis?Does this refer to an M chassis #, Transmission, rear end ect..My tag reads:

Dodge Fargo De Soto
Make: Dodge Model: R40
Vin: R40CA4S028275 Ton: B2995324
GVW: 12000

The motorhome has had allot of work done to it, with a bit left to go. See profile. I'm looking forward to hearing from anyone that can help or who has any comments that would help.
Of course I realise this is the class C forum, but I'm triing to cover all bases.Thanks

* This post was edited 11/01/05 11:37pm by Dannbo *


Posted By: Sportscoach on 12/05/05 08:59pm

Wow did'nt know there were that many of us. Just purchased a 1978 Sportscoach M500 chassis. There has been quite abit of work done on this unit but still needs work. 440 engine is overheating, the water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat have been replaced. but it still overheats if you feel the radiator it is very hot on top and much cooler on the bottom, it has been chemically flushed could it still be plugged and in need of replacement If you have any answers let me know as this is my home away from home in Las Vegas and would like to get him repaired before I return. Thank you in advance for your reply!!


Posted By: Toyota4x4crazy on 12/05/05 10:28pm

Bought my 79 Dodge Sportsman 21' Georgie Boy class C about two years ago to tow/camp my 85 Toyota 4Runner. It has a 360 4BL. My wife and I recovered all of the cushions and made new curtains. Thats about all it needed, it's in great shape for a 1979 MH. Have only camped in it for one weekend but everything worked great. I had the carb rebuilt and it runs good. I have been thinking about a newer MH but I love the layout of this one and ITS PAID FOR. Are there any pictures on this site? Still reading all the posts but wanted to be added to the list.


Posted By: donran on 12/06/05 07:50am

Overheating in my 1976 dodge 360 was a great problem for the person who owned it before me. It has a new readiator, waterpump, thermostate but he never got it right. I think the problem is in a burned valve dumping hot gases that exchange heat to the head. Not a superficial fix. But I could be wrong.


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 12/07/05 08:08am

Dannbo wrote:

Wow! I have just read all 42 pages of this thread. Where is "White Night " these days? I have learned allot in a short time. Very quality reading.

Of course I realise this is the class C forum, but I'm triing to cover all bases.Thanks



Hello Dannbo and everybody!!

I apologize heartily for being away so long. Much has changed
for me employment-wise, but things are finally getting stabilized.
I'm nothing short of dumbfounded- what started as a thread that I
NEVER expected would be responded to now is what? 42 pages and growing?


I'm humbled beyond words. And grateful. Not only for confirmation that
I'm not the ONLY loose cannon rollin' round on the deck as far as older RV's go, but for all the sharing and cameraderie that seem to
be one of the strong characteristics of this group. Thank all of you
for being a part of this, and standing up to be recognized. I have always thought that the used RV owners sector of the market was one not to be taken lightly. Just the sheer number of our pages and posts show this. We are a force to be reckoned with.

I also hope that this post of mine finds all of us well, happy, in the
company of our loved ones and in good health and spirits. I also beg the "Father of all lights, in Whom there is no variableness, nor shadow of turning" His rich blessings and His watchful, loving care upon all of us now, and in the days yet unborn. I still entertain the hope of meeting everyone here someday in real time. I happily remain...

The one who started all this mess...

Mark a.k.a whiteknight


Posted By: new v'er on 12/07/05 12:54pm

GypZ wrote:

My first Dodge and it's a 1977 Tioga Sportsman 24' with a 440. I'm new to RVing and this one was given to me by my grandpa after it sat for several years. Guess I'm gonna have to hire a handyman to help me get her on the road again. Anyhoo, hello all. Julie


Hi Julie.

Based on the rebuild zen of the older rv you might consider marrying the handy man. It might prove less expensive.

We truly enjoyed doing the work we could and bit the bullet for the bigger items. Our new exhaust was put in the day before the big snows came to Michigan. The Doug Thorley headers were an ebay steal at $50.00 and $30 for the gaskets. The mechanic put in the headers and duals with crossover for $700. I figure it was worth it. It's not a driveway job if you know what I mean.


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 12/15/05 05:34am

Woohoo! Great thread.

I recently purchased a 1973 Dodge Superior 23' Class A with the Dodge 440 and 727 transmission. It came with manuals for all the bells and whistles but I have no information about the base chassis. The seller thought it was a M400. I'd like to get more info to figure out whether or not it's rated to tow my Jeep.

My VIN# is 23H22002016 if that helps.

It drove great on the 100 miles home. 1st "issue" is that I only have 12V cabin lights if I either run the generator or plug into my home AC. I do have a well charged house battery. The house battery is "connected" because it gets charged when I hook up AC. I also show voltage on the gauge on thh electrical panel inside the RV w/o hooking up AC or running the generator. So I have 12V at that panel but not anywhere else.

I appreciate all the information folks have shared on this thread. It's our first RV and I figured I would get something old and cheap to try it out but heck, the 1st one might be a keeper. :-)


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 12/15/05 07:07am

Congrats on the new purchase.
Dose the home have a receiver or hitch on the back for towing? if so crawl under there and see that it is solid and that you would want to tow with it.
my Clippper is rated @ just about what the thing weights {don't remember the numbers} That didn't stop me, I made sure the hitch and frame work was in good condition and towed my race car on a trailer all over Oregon and beyond. A good set of trailer brakes are a must to be able to stop.
The electric control box should make the switch from 12v to 110 of shore power as the seasoned RVers call it. you might take a look in the box once you located it and check all of the connections and fuses and breakers.
I had to rebuild my control box and was not that difficult after I got the semantic from the manufacture, they were quite helpful.
good luck
Rodney


Posted By: Mr.Mopar! on 12/15/05 07:24am

donran wrote:

Overheating in my 1976 dodge 360 was a great problem for the person who owned it before me. It has a new radiator, waterpump, thermostat but he never got it right. I think the problem is in a burned valve dumping hot gases that exchange heat to the head. Not a superficial fix. But I could be wrong.

you could be right, a blown head gasket will cause overheating and coolant loss. The 360's are prone to cracked heads and blown gaskets if abused, there is a check that can be done if you have the equipment to see if gasses are getting in the cooling system. or simply remove the radiator cap when cool run the engine and see if you are getting any unusual bubbling some time you can get a clue this way.


Posted By: HiTech on 12/15/05 02:53pm

OldDodgeJohn wrote:

1st "issue" is that I only have 12V cabin lights if I either run the generator or plug into my home AC. I do have a well charged house battery. The house battery is "connected" because it gets charged when I hook up AC. I also show voltage on the gauge on thh electrical panel inside the RV w/o hooking up AC or running the generator. So I have 12V at that panel but not anywhere else.


I'm confused - the only lights built into my motorhome are 12V lights.


Posted By: Dannbo on 12/16/05 12:53am

I think eleven number vins are pre 1973. My 1973 manual for Dodge motorhome chassis refers to a thirteen number vin. Who knows?? I have spent many hours on the search for things. Try to google VIN search and go from there narrowing down as you go.

Quite often I'm told that the chassis were purchased from the manufactures one or two years ahead of the actual build. You could check with some of the experts on this site, but I think vin numbers changed from whatever??? to thirteen numbers around this time. Good luck in your search.

* This post was edited 12/16/05 01:05am by Dannbo *


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 12/16/05 07:46am

HiTech wrote:

OldDodgeJohn wrote:

1st "issue" is that I only have 12V cabin lights if I either run the generator or plug into my home AC. I do have a well charged house battery. The house battery is "connected" because it gets charged when I hook up AC. I also show voltage on the gauge on thh electrical panel inside the RV w/o hooking up AC or running the generator. So I have 12V at that panel but not anywhere else.


I'm confused - the only lights built into my motorhome are 12V lights.


I'm confused, too. How the heck can all the 12V lights work when I have generator running or AC plugged in but nothing when just using the battery. And the battery shows voltage on the volt meter in the RV. Something's disconnected somewhere. :-)

Also, thanks for the VIN # help.


Posted By: new v'er on 12/16/05 10:36am

Hi John,

My Midas had similar problems. I made sure my fuses (in the converter)were ok by replacing or testing them vs. just looking at the element inside. Next I checked all the established connections around the converter. I noted that there is a automatic switch that has a part in charging the house battery when the motor is running. That had some corrosion. I found that the battery was questionable and replaced it. Lastly there were some connections near the house battery box under the counter cabinets. I replaced the connectors to no avail. Lastly, I found the 12v circuit that supply's the fridge and tapped in to the + side of the circuit and ran a wire back to the house battery with a fused line and a switch to charge the battery when on shore power. Everything works now. I may have bypassed a bad connection somewhere.

I'm just a shade tree mechanic and not an electrician. So take my info cautiously.

Good luck


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 12/16/05 11:22am

Thanks for the support. I'm getting closer. In further checking out the panel I discovered something. The water pump works fine off just battery. There are two 15 amp circuits in the panel, one for the water pump and one for everything else. So I've got it narrowed down to that. Kind of like you did, I could just run a new line to run the 1/2 that's not working but I'll find the problem if I keep at it. I bet the one side isn't connected or has an inline fuse somewhere. A day piddling on the RV beats a day at work for sure!


Posted By: huskyhauler on 12/16/05 04:02pm

Sportscoach wrote:

Wow did'nt know there were that many of us. Just purchased a 1978 Sportscoach M500 chassis. There has been quite abit of work done on this unit but still needs work. 440 engine is overheating, the water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat have been replaced. but it still overheats if you feel the radiator it is very hot on top and much cooler on the bottom, it has been chemically flushed could it still be plugged and in need of replacement If you have any answers let me know as this is my home away from home in Las Vegas and would like to get him repaired before I return. Thank you in advance for your reply!!


chemical flushs do very little. what needs to be done is to have the radiator boiled and rodded. it takes a small amount of calcium to plug a radiator. i always used distilled water - anti freeze mix, never tap water in my shop. if you are getting combustion gases in the cooling system, it will constantly over pressurize and pop coolant into the over flow or on to the ground. i would do a simple block test, and have the radiator boiled, in that order. call your local Napa and they can supply you with a " Block Test Kit". it will come with instructions, and is easy to do. a competent radiator shop can handle a "rod out" on the radiator. be advised if the radiator is real bad, it may need a re-core, or replacemet, either case is often a pricy one..


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 12/18/05 11:24am

Hi All,
Finally got time to sit and give a story of my winter camping trip. Took the Chuck Wagon up on the hill Wed. before Thanksgiving, come back out on 12-04-05. The area we go is owned by a local timber company, they allow camping during the deer season when they open the gates. The only amenities here are what you bring!! The place I had it parked is 1 1/2 miles as the crow flies from the nearest paved road. Had to put the chains on to get up the hill. Got at site about 6:30 pm just kinda got set up for the nite. Thur. am set up the site with firepit, canopy and pallets to walk on. Snowed 10" overnite. Cooked a Deep fried turkey for thanksgiving dinner. Fri my son and I cut about 2 cord firewood for the week. Had a few adult carbonated beverages in the evening. Sat got the camp stew pots fixed up. Kept them on the fire until we left. Must of been good, with all the visitors we had off and on 3 gal beef pot was totally gone and only about a gallon of chicken pot left out of 6. We went up for the Pa. deer season. Mrs is not a hunter but she had a ball during the week. The only misforntune during this trip was on Sun. leaving to come down. A chunk of ice kicked up and pulled the transmission cooler line apart. Didn't know it until rig wouldn't move anymore. Fixed line and had son run to town and pick up ATF. Filled tranny back up and had no problem. Even took it for an extended ride home on some hills and the highway just to see if it shifted alright. So far so good. Below is a link to view some photos of our trip, after looking at them let me know who is game to go with me next year!!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/unionguy10.........dir=/b8a6&.src=ph&.tok=phNjEHEBpPRsjz5C


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 12/19/05 06:07am

unionguy1019 wrote:

Hi All,
Finally got time to sit and give a story of my winter camping trip. Took the Chuck Wagon up on the hill Wed. before Thanksgiving, come back out on 12-04-05. ....


Great story! I'd call that camping. Far cry from parking at an RV resort.


Posted By: donran on 12/19/05 06:43am

I have a unit that looks like a charger, but when it receives AC a relay cuts out most 12V devices from the house battery and supplys power to them thru a transformer. The water pump is not cut out and stays on the house battery. This isolates the battery so it can be charge from a seperate battery charger. This charger was missing when I bought the rig and I spent lots of time trying to figure out why the battery didn't charge when the rig was plugged into the AC. Testin the water pump with isolation and non-isolation revealed it just work better when isolated, which is what the rig manufacture intended.


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 01/04/06 09:03am

donran wrote:

I have a unit that looks like a charger, but when it receives AC a relay cuts out most 12V devices from the house battery and supplys power to them thru a transformer. The water pump is not cut out and stays on the house battery. This isolates the battery so it can be charge from a seperate battery charger. This charger was missing when I bought the rig and I spent lots of time trying to figure out why the battery didn't charge when the rig was plugged into the AC. Testin the water pump with isolation and non-isolation revealed it just work better when isolated, which is what the rig manufacture intended.


I found a spec sheet for my "converter." It has two separate 12 volt circuits. I'm guessing I've blown a fuse on one. Thanks for all the help. I've been working on a more pressing problem, kingpin replacement. Fun, fun, fun.


Posted By: proceed_net on 01/12/06 11:08pm

More than one, whiteknight! I'm begging to scan the entire manual in for the B300 series @ http://rvhelp.net. It's far complete, but I anyone needs I'll skip to the chapters they want. And, don't worry, I'll have a better method of page loading (for dial-up) in a few weeks. Ummm, the real reason I'm here is that I don't have an owners manual for my 1977 M40 (MB400) that's on my B300 chassis. I don't know how to use the water heater/ forced air / refrig. etc... Any help would be welcome. Scott in Denver


Posted By: proceed_net on 01/12/06 11:30pm

OldDodgeJohn wrote:

donran wrote:

I have a unit that looks like a charger, but when it receives AC a relay cuts out most 12V devices from the house battery and supplys power to them thru a transformer. The water pump is not cut out and stays on the house battery. This isolates the battery so it can be charge from a seperate battery charger. This charger was missing when I bought the rig and I spent lots of time trying to figure out why the battery didn't charge when the rig was plugged into the AC. Testin the water pump with isolation and non-isolation revealed it just work better when isolated, which is what the rig manufacture intended.


I found a spec sheet for my "converter." It has two separate 12 volt circuits. I'm guessing I've blown a fuse on one. Thanks for all the help. I've been working on a more pressing problem, kingpin replacement. Fun, fun, fun.


Can you post the Schematic to the Converter? Thanks, Scott


Posted By: new v'er on 02/09/06 07:17am

Helloooooooooo Anybody out there? This is a good thread. We Dodge oldie owners know where to go for dedicated info for our rigs. Is the thread worth preserving?


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 02/09/06 03:43pm

New V'er

You betcha. We're up to 44 pages- that's gotta be
a near record somewhere...

Mark aka whiteknight

{modified to comply with the no advertising rule}

* This post was edited 02/09/06 06:38pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 02/15/06 11:11pm

Any one have any ideas to help me out? Took the heater out of the MH to clean the burners. Only about half of them worked during my Dec. camping trip. Since reinstalling, I now have a problem with the unit backfiring and blowing out the pilot. It will cycle 6 to 8 times before this happens. Have tried cutting down the air and also have increased the air to the burner. I was thinking that maybe the main gas valve was leaking to the burner and letting the propane build up to cause this backfire. Shut system down and purged with the blower. Let it set about an hour. Then run a sniffer inside burner chamber, no gas detected. Other than this backfiring the unit works very well in getting the MH heated. Fired it up last week with temps outside at 18 degrees, took 20 minutes to heat up interior, thermo cycled unit 6 times over next 2 hours, small backfire and blew pilot out.

Any ideas?


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 02/17/06 11:21am

proceed_net wrote:


OldDodgeJohn wrote:

I found a spec sheet for my "converter." It has two separate 12 volt circuits. I'm guessing I've blown a fuse on one. Thanks for all the help. I've been working on a more pressing problem, kingpin replacement. Fun, fun, fun.


Can you post the Schematic to the Converter? Thanks, Scott


Hey, I hadn't checked this thread lately.

http://www.amplepower.com/apps/converter/

That site was the best explanation I've seen of what a converter does. The sheet that came with my motorhome just shows how to wire it up, not what's going on inside.


Posted By: cajundog on 03/06/06 07:45am

I just bought a 76 Delta, not sure of the length,maybe 20 or 22. Big motor 440. New air and I just got the fridge working, old fridge didn't have 12 volts going to it. Are others like that? My understanding is that you have to have 12 volts are they won't cool. My inverter doesn't work so I will be fixing that next. STill have a slight leak on the roof so that needs to be looked at. I am installing new wood floors and carpeting and a new stereo. My only complaint is it didn't come with an engine run A/C. Just the AC powered one. And no generator! I guess I'll have to let one ride piggyback. SO far it's been fun to work on. We'll be camping soon!


Posted By: new v'er on 03/06/06 12:56pm

Welcome Cajundog.

I too found the joy in working on my rig. You can see the levels of repair I've undertaken. Beware of the leaky roof. My caution is one of experience. Make an in depth assessment of the water damage, which needs to include any wooden structure below the leak (as water runs down hill). My small leaks resulted in significant wood replacement in the floors due to carpenter ants' desire for wet wood, the complete R&R of the roof/ceiling structure as well as the frame work in the front corners and the right rear. The good thing about the roof off condition allowed me to drop in a new sleeper loveseat to replace the jackknife sofa.

I've said this so you don't invest in expensive items too early.

I wish you well. We enjoy our rig and know that it is very sound now.

Bill


Posted By: new v'er on 03/06/06 12:59pm

My next next move is the air suspension add on. This is the class c with duals configuration. Any one with previous experience on this install? It looks straight forward.

Thanks
Bill


Posted By: truckerger on 03/06/06 06:52pm

Dannbo wrote:

I think eleven number vins are pre 1973. My 1973 manual for Dodge motorhome chassis refers to a thirteen number vin. Who knows?? I have spent many hours on the search for things. Try to google VIN search and go from there narrowing down as you go.

Quite often I'm told that the chassis were purchased from the manufactures one or two years ahead of the actual build. You could check with some of the experts on this site, but I think vin numbers changed from whatever??? to thirteen numbers around this time. Good luck in your search.

I don't know much about VIN numbers and the dates making a difference in the length of them, but mine is 1973 Monaco and it has a three digit VIN.


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 03/06/06 07:08pm

truckerger wrote:

Dannbo wrote:

I think eleven number vins are pre 1973. My 1973 manual for Dodge motorhome chassis refers to a thirteen number vin. Who knows?? I have spent many hours on the search for things. Try to google VIN search and go from there narrowing down as you go.

Quite often I'm told that the chassis were purchased from the manufactures one or two years ahead of the actual build. You could check with some of the experts on this site, but I think vin numbers changed from whatever??? to thirteen numbers around this time. Good luck in your search.

I don't know much about VIN numbers and the dates making a difference in the length of them, but mine is 1973 Monaco and it has a three digit VIN.


Mine is a 1970 Explorer on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis and the serial number (VIN) is ten digits.

Serial numbers (or VIN) changed several times, ending with a federally mandated format sometime in the 70's.

Encoded is the VIN is the place of manufacture, date, original engine size, etc.; usually the last five or six digits are an actual serial number and the preceding is encoded information.

The serial number is what actually told me I had a "split year" motorhome, in which the vehicle model year differs from the chassis manufacture date. (Mopar changed format between 1969 and 1970.)

In short, the serial number is assigned by the chassis manufacturer but the model year for registration purposes is assigned by the final manufacturer.

(In the older Mopars, part numbers also contained an encoded date that indicates when that particular part was put into service ... although a given part might be used for many years, it does indicate some of the history.)

Griff
Griff's Custom Classic Motorhome Projects (www.riffgan.com/motorhome/)
A forum containing a section just for Do........torhomes (www.wildmopartruckcountry.com)

* This post was edited 03/06/06 07:19pm by Griff in Fairbanks *


Posted By: Dannbo on 03/06/06 11:37pm

Sounds to me a bit more investigation is needed. A three number vin would not allow for much information to be delivered to the customer. Post a pick of your info plate and see if anyone can help you out. Or just type out exactly what it says.


Posted By: truckerger on 03/07/06 08:34am

Dannbo wrote:

Sounds to me a bit more investigation is needed. A three number vin would not allow for much information to be delivered to the customer. Post a pick of your info plate and see if anyone can help you out. Or just type out exactly what it says.

I'm not worried about the VIN being only three digits. It was first registered in CA. with this VIN # and still is. I was only letting you all know that there are some weird numbers out there.


Posted By: cajundog on 03/07/06 12:58pm

Thanks for the warning on Roof leaks, I have already gone in and replaced all the damaged supports and wood from the front bed area. That was quite involved. The leak at this time is very minimal and only obvious during one of our famous Florida downpours. I will get this taken care of. Probably a coat of white coat will seal it up good. One more cabinet to replace and all the wood will be new.


Posted By: slowlybutsurely on 03/12/06 01:42pm

Yep,A Dodger here myself.Gotta 77' Midas motorhome on a dodge b300 chassis with the blazin fast 360 w/ 62,000 miles.You name it I have just about replaced it, rebuilt it, or fixed it on this rig.Can't wait to take it out for the first time this spring.Hey anyone know where to get a deal on a new DOT approved, horizontally mounted propane tank?????


Relax...Were almost there!


Posted By: tulsajohn1 on 03/13/06 11:42am

I have a small Tioga 2 1977. I have been working on it.It camps well and I am going to live in it for 3 months this summer. Just me and Chica my Chihuahua.


Posted By: new v'er on 03/20/06 02:01pm

Cajundog, it sounds like you've paid your dues. As for the roofing material I invested in TPO roofing material. It is the same material used in boat flooring. It has more stiffness and higher tear resistance than a rubber membrane. It went on easy.


Posted By: mnoeltne on 03/26/06 08:30pm

We've got a 1976 Lindy by Skyline on a Dodge Sportsman chassis. 360 V8. My parents gave it to us after purchasing a much newer class A motorhome 1-1/2 yrs ago. They gave it to us at a time when money was a bit tight, so we haven't yet licensed it and taken it out. We're working on it now to get it ready for inspections, and hope to take it out by May.

I know it's going to need some new steering parts to pass the state safety inspection. Are parts like that still pretty readily available from NAPA or other auto parts stores?

Mark & Joyce Noeltner
and our Chihuahuas Chico and Cricket


Mark & Joyce Noeltner along with Cricket the Chihuahua
and memories of Chico the Chihuahua (Sept 2002 to Sept 5, 2013)
2005 Fleetwood Fiesta 26Y
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport


Posted By: new v'er on 03/27/06 03:03pm

mnoeltne wrote:

I know it's going to need some new steering parts to pass the state safety inspection. Are parts like that still pretty readily available from NAPA or other auto parts stores?


My '76 Midas needed the work done as well. We did not have difficulty in getting parts. Don't skimp on the steering. Ours is nice and tight and we appreciate it each time the wind blows on the freeway or when a Semi passes. Air bags on the rear are the next add to the rig.

Welcome to the Forum.


Posted By: mnoeltne on 03/28/06 04:24pm

new v'er wrote:

My '76 Midas needed the work done as well. We did not have difficulty in getting parts. Don't skimp on the steering. Ours is nice and tight and we appreciate it each time the wind blows on the freeway or when a Semi passes. Air bags on the rear are the next add to the rig.

Welcome to the Forum.


Thanks! I plan on replacing every steering component that needs it, as I like going the direction I point the wheel. I drove this one home, about 300 miles. It did OK, and wasn't much worse than some of the old farm trucks I've driven, but I know tight steering will make it safer and more comfortable to drive.

Anything beyond needed essentials will have to wait. I suspect that we won't keep it real long if we like RVing. The sleeping positions in this model leave a lot to be desired. My DW has already picked out a couple of possible replacements. And I learned long ago that what DW wants, DW gets! It makes life so much more pleasant!

Mark & Joyce
along with Chico & Cricket the Chihuahuas


Posted By: new v'er on 03/29/06 10:27am

I know what you speak of. While the lid was off I dropped in a sleeper love seat. That's better by degrees. We've added the air mattress to deal with the dreaded sleeper sofa bar in the back syndrome. We even have room for the Boxer to join us. It's all rather womb like.


Posted By: AlohaMan on 03/29/06 05:59pm

Add me to the list. Purchased sight unseen 1976 Mobile Traveler 318. Live in Hawaii but going to Colorado to retrieve it in May. Get it mechanically sound and off to Mexico for the summer (I hope).


Posted By: Jer&Ger on 04/05/06 10:44pm

add me to the list. Dodge, 1977 Brougham 360. As I've seen so far, I'm doing the restore thing too. Still have a few things to figure out.


Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis


Posted By: timmac on 04/07/06 11:05pm

add me to, 1979 xplorer 23 ft class c, 440, added holley tbi fuel injection, new upholstery, new fridg, new toilet, new carpet, this rv has steel frame not wood, fiberglass ext, 1 3/4 inch floor, large 1 piece fiberglass bathroom, these rvs were built with high quality and life time paint, would like to here from other xplorer class c owners. timmac121@netzero.com


Posted By: munkalido on 04/12/06 11:44pm

timmac wrote:

add me to, 1979 xplorer 23 ft class c, 440, added holley tbi fuel injection, new upholstery, new fridg, new toilet, new carpet, this rv has steel frame not wood, fiberglass ext, 1 3/4 inch floor, large 1 piece fiberglass bathroom, these rvs were built with high quality and life time paint, would like to here from other xplorer class c owners. timmac121@netzero.com


How does the Holley FI work for you? I have a similar rig (Dodge 440, 23') but opted for the q-jet replacement of the thermoquad. Gas milage is about 7 mpg while running at 60 mph or 8-1/2 gallons per hour while idling


Posted By: timmac on 04/14/06 12:41am

The Holley 2D TBI Fuel injection is great, had a eldenbrok carb on for a while but used to much fuel, with tbi I can get around 8-9 miles per gal at 60-65, starts with no need to pump gas pedal, runs smooth, sounds better, with carb only best gas mileage was 7 1/2 at 55, Holley TBI has 5 controls on computer for fuel/air ratios, put my computer at dash for easy change of controls for using E-85 fuel or any blend, changed all fuel lines for ethanol, advance timing 4 degrees, added MSD ignition control box, high volt coil, now my RV is a full flex fuel RV, runs great with E-85, runs cooler, quieter, cleaner. E-85/Bio-Diesel/Hydrogen is the fuel of the near future.. are you ready...


Posted By: QualitySnowman on 04/14/06 02:10pm

Add me too! Actualy, this is my first post on RV.net. I have a 1979 Skyline Lindy 24' that is built on a 1978 Dodge Sportsman chasis w/ the 360 V8, 727 TorqueFlite, and Dana rear end. I'm 23 and "officialy" bought it last year. My parents were the second owners in 1986. It has lived in shelter (except on dry, summer, weekend use) in a barn built just for it on my grandparent's property. It still lives there today. It is in EXCELLENT condition. Early on it developed the usual manifold leak. It went long enough that it torched the exhaust side of the heads. I took it down to the block last summer (and lost use of it for almost 4 months) and rebuilt the entire top end myself. I put on new manifolds, metallic racing quality gaskets where applicable, and a completely new exhaust. I also re-wallpapered the kitchen, put up new modern window blinds, new cushions throughout, and a custom stereo and entertainment system. It has only 72,000 miles, and runs EXCELLENT now. I love it, but do plan to upgrade to about a 28'C eventualy.

Being 23, I use it for camping, just as I have all of my life, but I have a lot of friends (The Crew) that like to have it at outdoor parties at their houses, because it makes a great "rolling tavern" with the awning, fridge, and all. Glad to see there is this much following out there!

Some pics of it at a party 2 years ago. (I'm in white)


~82 Brian "QualitySnowman" Snowden

~06 Ram 2500HD Quad 4x4 Laramie 8' Cummins 5.9 - 5" w/o Muff or Cat, Prog, 35's, Intake.
~13 Streamlite 27RKS 32' Champagne Ed.
~07 Honda Rancher 420 EFI 4x4 - 2" Lift, ITP 212 Alloys & 26" MudLite XTR, 2.5k Winch, Camo



Posted By: mike77leprechaun on 04/16/06 09:19pm

This Topic was started when I first Joined... Just keeping it going for the Mopar Guys


Current Rig: 2011 Salem 29QBDS Towed with a 2010 GMC Sierra z71 Crew 1500 .

"You should really invest in a Diesel 1 ton to properly tow that popup"


Posted By: new v'er on 04/18/06 02:45pm

My brother-in-law and sister-in-law just returned from a winter in Dulac LA. They were helping the folks down there with storm damage. They were showing us some of their video of the destruction. Substantial homes were just blown apart. In one scene was a lime green and white Dodge class C looking just fine.

These old buggies are tougher than the the bad girls of the south.


Posted By: FrizzleFried on 04/18/06 04:30pm

It's been quite some time since I posted....about 8 months or so I figure. In the 8 months since my last post a number of things have transpired in regards to the "DOOOD"...my 1977 Diamond 22 footer. Lets see...my last post I was considering purchasing a new air conditioner. I managed to find a brand new Carrier unit online and had it installed. It works like a charm! My PowerWise 3500 (Chinese) generator even pushes it without much issue (I do have to slowly crank it on...no direct to high or it REALLY pushes the gen).

I have developed a really small leak where the prior owner installed a CB antenna. No worries...once the weather clears up for a bit I am going to pull the antenna off the rig, add some Eternabond tape...and then I plan on adding a fresh coat of Plast-A-Coat.

When I last wrote, I was writing from sunny San Diego California. In late March we moved from San Diego to Nampa Idaho. I was a little worried about the trip....the funny thing is that the Dodge made it without issue...the 2004 Budget Rent-A-Truck with 32,000 miles on it broke down in Las Vegas!

For the trip, I had a number of things done to the rig. I had new shocks installed all the way around...AMAZING is the only word I can think of when it comes to the effect it had on the ride of the rig. Things were MUCH less mushy...especially toward the front end. I had new brakes done up front. I installed new belts, performed a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, rotor, cap, etc). I replaced the majority of my fuel line...and because my tires were about 6 years old, I replaced the meats all the way around.

Now the "DOOOD" is sitting next to my new house in it's very own RV pad instead of some rented spot in hell-hole El Cajon California.


Posted By: travcojim on 04/19/06 07:37pm

hello all, its been some time since I have posted anything. I have a 67 Travco in tip top shape. I am over here in Northwest Arkansas, the Springdale area. The first weekend of May I am taking her out camping to a large area about 40 miles away, Anyone want to do some boondocking come on over and join us. Whiteknight is close by and I know some others are around the Tulsa area.


Posted By: munkalido on 04/24/06 10:25am

timmac wrote:

The Holley 2D TBI Fuel injection is great, had a eldenbrok carb on for a while but used to much fuel, with tbi I can get around 8-9 miles per gal at 60-65, starts with no need to pump gas pedal, runs smooth, sounds better, with carb only best gas mileage was 7 1/2 at 55, Holley TBI has 5 controls on computer for fuel/air ratios, put my computer at dash for easy change of controls for using E-85 fuel or any blend, changed all fuel lines for ethanol, advance timing 4 degrees, added MSD ignition control box, high volt coil, now my RV is a full flex fuel RV, runs great with E-85, runs cooler, quieter, cleaner. E-85/Bio-Diesel/Hydrogen is the fuel of the near future.. are you ready...


I am worried that adding a hotter spark to my system will just make me run hotter than I already do. Oregon doesn't have e85 fuel yet, at least that I can find on the net. I am interested in the Holley TBI FI however, especially if I can get 2 more MPG! One question is what RPM are you running at while driving 60mph?


Posted By: timmac on 04/24/06 09:21pm

munkalido : I just removed the msd ignition box but left the high out put coil, just could not get the msd box to work right it caused timing to miss at 50-65 miles per hour, also found out that about 15% of people who use the msd ignition box have similar problems, did not notice any change in performance any way.. my rpm is 3000 at 60 mph..the holley tbi is a great buy, you will like how it runs and starts..


Posted By: munkalido on 04/26/06 12:21pm

Is this it?

Holley TBI


Posted By: timmac on 04/26/06 04:09pm

Yes that is it, holley 2d tbi system, thats also a good price, go for it you wont be disappointed, take your time and get the wires correct and you might need to run a return fuel line to tank, my 79 dodge did not have one to begin with so i made a adapter at fuel hose inlet where you pump gas, made a tee for fuel line return into this pipe instead of removing tank...


Posted By: munkalido on 04/26/06 06:41pm

Did you change your intake or use the factory? I know you probably don't have to change but I also know the factory isn't as good as an aluminum aftermarket.... and do you still have your EGR?


Posted By: timmac on 04/27/06 07:53pm

I have same factory intake, if you change intake do keep the EGR, I don't know how emission tests is in your state but here in Las Vegas they check for EGR at each test to make sure it has not been removed.


Posted By: proceed_net on 04/29/06 12:22am

Been a while. Got the manual for the 77 Dodge Van B300. It's at rvhelp.net. I only drove the 77 Sportsman once last year. When it got warm the tranny slipped. Had to let it cool to get home. Parked it and didn't touch it until this week. Changed the tranny fluid, gasket, and filter. Seems some ass had put oil in it! When hot the fluid would foam and slip! Works fine now. I'm in Denver and I don't know if it'll pass emissions. I see no cataletic converter or EGC, nothing. Hope I'm not in for trouble. Any comments?


Posted By: HiTech on 04/29/06 05:32am

Probably no trouble with emissions since it is a truck and not subject to many emissions laws in 1977.


Posted By: timmac on 04/29/06 07:48pm

Catalytic converters were note used on 70"s rv, my 79 has EGR but don't know if a 77 had one, if its missing one just buy one any where and stick it on and put a vacuum hose on and put vacuum hose under wires to hide, it don't have to work to pass it just has to be there, mine is frozen, wont move so I plugged vacuum hose, it still runs fine no problems and passes emissions test fine.. I don't plan to buy a new if I don't need it.. also put a 1/3 or more of E-85 fuel in your tank before emissions test and drive it till its warm and you should pass test without a problem...


Posted By: Sportsman76 on 05/15/06 08:24pm

HiTech wrote:

Probably no trouble with emissions since it is a truck and not subject to many emissions laws in 1977.


Hi

Do you own a Sportster Model or something different?


Posted By: proceed_net on 05/20/06 04:12pm

Thanks, HiTech You were right! Went in for the emission teat and "flew" right through. Shocked me! (now i have to learn how to work the gas, hot water, fridge, crapper, and everything electrical!) I have the complete mechanical manual, for the Van part, of my 1977 Dodge Sportsman. However, I have no clue on all of the RV parts! Did it come with an owners manual and, if it did, where can I find it? (ps The Van manual is available if anyone wants to see it.)


Posted By: Dannbo on 05/20/06 07:57pm

Write down all the names and model numbers of your fridge, furnace, toilet ect and start your search on the net. I found all information on these and more. If the existing companies didn't have the manuals on the internet they sent me to the right spot to find them. I printed them out and put them in clear covers in a binder. Sure makes for a nice book that travells with my motorhome at all times. And you can add to it at any time. Also I searched out and found Dodge chassis manuals on Ebay. The company was Bu****o Reproductions. I'm not sure the spelling is correct on that, but would be glad to look back in my records for you if interested. One of the manuals was an original which is kind of neet and the other two are good photo copies with excellent bindings.

I have a 1974 Dodge Emperor with 440-3 motor that we are restoring. Take a look on my profile if you like and see the project. It was torn down to the frame and all walls,floor and roof are new. I know it's a class a but I feel I have allot more in common with this group of people in this forum than the 36-40 class A guys. Not that there is anything wrong with that!


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 05/21/06 12:36am

Hey Dannbo, how can you tell you have a 440-3 and not the more ordinary 440-1?

The 5th digit of the VIN for a Class C is for the motor. For a 440-1 it is a 'D'. I cannot find any informaton that a 440-3 was ever offered in the Class C (cut-away van). Maybe it was only offered in the Class A coaches!?


Posted By: Dannbo on 05/21/06 04:19am

RHood

Many changes were going on in the early seventies. Cerial numbers were just starting to get organised. The fifth number of the 1974 code was engine. "A" designates 440-3. You can also see just by a visual.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 05/21/06 02:49pm

OK, can you explain some of the visual differences? Would really appreciate it!
Thanks in advance.


Posted By: new v'er on 05/22/06 01:00pm

Just got back from the first outing of the season. Wow. Why wow?

I had Doug Thorley Tri-Y headers and dual exhaust installed last fall day before the first major snow of the winter. The rig went into storage. We took her out of storage to have the Ride Rite air bags installed. I really did not have her on the road to make a fair assessment.

This weekend, however, I found out how these two modifications were so needed. The 360 can breathe and with it is a major improvement in power, start up and MILEAGE. We crossed the 9.5 MPG into the 10.7-11 mpg range. I'll have more reliable averages as the season progresses. The exhaust system has the restrained sound of Detroit muscle.

The air ride was a real blessing. We had stiff wind all weekend and the drive to and from was greatly improved in the overall stability and handling of the rig. The body roll was greatly reduced as well. The cosmetics of the suspension improved as well. Looking at the rig as we sat eating some fast food, we noticed how much more "sound" she looked with a level stance. She appeared way more youthful.


Posted By: 89southwind on 05/22/06 01:44pm

mine is a 30ft southwind 1989 and I'm only 37 years old like to travel every time I get a chance I do like new MHS but mine is paid off


Posted By: Rusty Shackleford on 05/25/06 07:20pm

RobinHoodRV wrote:

OK, can you explain some of the visual differences? Would really appreciate it!
Thanks in advance.


Look on the passenger side of the engine block just below the cylinder head and towards the back. You should see IIRC a casting #, casting date, and 440-3.


Posted By: munkalido on 05/26/06 05:52pm

Dannbo wrote:

RHood

Many changes were going on in the early seventies. Cerial numbers were just starting to get organised. The fifth number of the 1974 code was engine. "A" designates 440-3. You can also see just by a visual.


My 24' Beaver Monterey, build on the Sportsman is a 440-1. thought all m/h were 440-3 but i's wrong...


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 05/31/06 12:09pm

Hello Everyone,

Just wondering if anyone else has dealt with this.....Thursday we were ready to go camping, my husband started up the Tioga, (it's a 1978 440). It was fine, then backfired, and got loud. We cut it off, looked underneath, and the muffle was blown. Here's the problem: the Tioga has always been in the South, except for 2 years in Indiana, where it stayed outside during the winter. Not a drop of rust on it, until the year before we got it(we got it last year). We need to stop the rust.

Has anyone else dealt with rust? Our mechanic recommended another mechanic to replace the exhaust system. (we aren't doing that). I wasn't sure if we could fix the rust problem ourselves. We are pretty handy, and have my parents as references.....

I would really hate to retire the Tioga, it's paid for, and the interior is like new. We've replaced the tires, belts, water pump, installed smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and some general upkeep. Eventually we will get something newer, but we love not owning any money on it!

Any suggestions are appreciated,

Thanks,
Rhonda K.

Also, the engine and transmission are in very good shape. The current engine has around 33,000 miles on it, no leaks. The tranmission also was replaced.

* This post was edited 05/31/06 12:19pm by Rhonda K. *


Posted By: Bordercollie on 05/31/06 05:41pm

Your post is not clear about what has been damaged by rust. If the muffler was original equipment, or old, they do rust out and need replacement eventually. If there is other rust damage in process, you could have the underside cleaned and treated with Naval Jelly rust remover, etc., and then undercoated. Our '04 Tioga was undercoated by the factory, don't know how well though.


Posted By: fourthclassC on 05/31/06 06:46pm

Some exhaust maifolds on Dodge engines, have a plug in the rear of the manifold that rusts out and blows suddenly. I had this happen. I got a 3/4" pipe tap. (I think that was the size) tapped the hole and installed a steel pipe plug. No more leak. Check out that location on both sides.


Posted By: HiTech on 05/31/06 07:54pm

Why not just replace the muffler and spray off the under side? There are lots of products that will stop rust, but if you remove any residual road salt I don't see why it would rust more unless you are driving it to the ocean or something similar.


Posted By: Rhonda K. on 06/01/06 07:00am

The exhaust system has been replaced before, but it's been at least 8 years ago, if not more.

I haven't dealt with rust before-not a problem in the South. I guess my concern was once it started rusting, it wouldn't stop.

Thanks,
Rhonda K.


Posted By: regal5575 on 06/05/06 01:50pm

Rhonda K. wrote:

The exhaust system has been replaced before, but it's been at least 8 years ago, if not more. . .

Thanks,
Rhonda K.

Rhonda,
If the Motorhome was started and not driven long enough to really heat things up, condensation (water) will form in the muffler. That water after a period of time will cause the muffler to rust from the inside out. Eventually it will rust a complete hole through the muffler or just weaken it enough so when you start the engine it will blow a hole through the weak spot. No salt is needed, just the condensation and time.
Jerry


Posted By: jojoe on 06/05/06 10:00pm

count me in 1978 dodge tradesman ralley jamboree 20 footer, 360 cid 2 bbl, 70 k miles.

life is GOOD !


1978 Dodge Tradesman Jamboree Rallye class C M300 360 2 bbl. 727 TorqueFlite trans. 20 FT.


Posted By: ssvette on 06/07/06 07:58pm

I found a new product that many of us with older RV's may be interested in. I have an issue with my refrigerator not getting cold on really hot days this man has developed a new product for this issue, it is affordable and a great idea. I will update the forum with my results and here is a link to check it out.

http://www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com/index.html


Posted By: new v'er on 06/08/06 03:07pm

jojoe wrote:

count me in 1978 dodge tradesman ralley jamboree 20 footer, 360 cid 2 bbl, 70 k miles.

life is GOOD !


Hey Jojoe,

Welcome aboard. This thread has been going for a while now. The folks here know their Dodges well.

Life IS good


Posted By: QualitySnowman on 06/08/06 05:06pm

Just wanted to throw this out there...

I just got back from my grandmother's property where the barn is that holds my 79 Lindy. I am soooo pleased at how well this thing runs. I gave it an entire overhaul last year primarily to rid it of the dreaded exhaust manifold leak inherent to the 360's (my friends knew it as "The Rackel-Kackel" or "Flame Thrower"). Anywho, it did not need the work for drivability puroposes. It's been a strong runner since my parents bought it back in 85 and now I'm lucky enough to own a great Dodge powered RV myself.

Tomorrow the carpet goes in. $275 to do all but the cab and bathroom didn't seem bad. I'll take it either way. For some reason, around here, no one want's to do carpet/tile work to them. So, I'll take what I can get.

See you all on the road in NE Ohio...


Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 06/12/06 07:12pm

Wow, I have been reading and posting on this site for quite a while, but I never saw this thread before. It took me 3 nights of reading to get through it!

Whitenight, way to go! This thread is awesome!

I am going to be on my second bout with the same old MH. It is a '76 Dodge Jamboree that I owned up untill a couple of years ago. We bought a '98 sportsmen TT and sold the Jamboree to my sister. Well we decided that the TT was not for us and sold it after 1 whole season. Now I just found out that my sister had the Jamboree for sale also. I have already hatched the plan to get her back but have yet to fill my wife in on said plan. She loves to camp but I could tell she was happy to see the old girl go down the road, while I was left with a small tear running down my face. It will be a big surprise to my wife when she comes home from work one day this week and the beast is parked there in the driveway just like she never left. I hope she doesn't resent me too much. Of course by "she" I mean the jamboree!


Our Camping History:
Variety of tents
'72 Lionel pop-up(SOLD)
Back to tent
'76 Dodge Jamboree MH(SOLD)
'98 Sportsmen 28' TT(SOLD)
Back to tent
'76 Dodge Jamboree MH (Bought her back)(Sold it again)
'93 Coachmen Catalina 23.5 ft 5th wheel



Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 06/12/06 07:13pm

wooo hooo 50 pages!!!!!


Posted By: ksmoscanner on 06/13/06 12:27am

We just bought our first RV on Friday. It's a 24' 1978 Dodge Sportsman "Far West" 440-V8. She's in rough shape but we look forward to fixing her up. Engine runs but needs an overhaul and there's lots of nasty bugs inside the interior. Some famous Kansas hail added design to the whole driver side and looks like there are a couple leaks as well. Is a camper like this worth some TLC or did I waste my $1500?? Kids sure love it and the wife and I are really fond of the idea but I'm having trouble taking the next step in actually fixing it up. Any opinions out there??

Gregg and Lauron Hohl
Leawood, Kansas


Posted By: HiTech on 06/13/06 04:19am

It's worth the $1500, but you will not get out the extra money you put in to make it perfect. Either write off the money you spend to fix it up, or keep a very low repair budget to minimize resale loss.


Posted By: new v'er on 06/13/06 08:03am

This is a dicey area. If you are handy and have time and resources in space, materials, tools and friends you may find that the process is going to take you deep into the coachwork. The bugs proabably carpenter ants are feeding and nesting in the wet wood of the framework and also borrowing into the foam panels of the rig. I actually saw this in my own rehab project.

What looked like a couple of leaks resulted in 80% of the wood being replaced around windows, floors (water runs down so what is wet on top may have leaked below), corners of the coach, ceiling and roof. The ceiling and roof were completely removed and I found only two 2x4's untouched by rot. I stayed the course and I worked on it with every spare moment two springs and summers ago. We were able to enjoy the rig for a week vacation in late October.

The carpet, wall paneling, refrigerator, hot water heater, black and gray water tanks, exhaust system, steering, brakes, air lift springs, roof air, and a sleeper sofa were replaced (approx. $3500 in parts and some labor).

We know what we have and we enjoy the rig. Would we go the same route again? We would do as the moderator says, Keep the repairs minimal. Probably try to sell the rig and look for something in better condition. Get an experienced rv'er or someone who works on them to check it out before you buy.

The enjoyment and passion rving gives can cloud our objectivity. So can trying to make previous expenditures more reasonable by putting in more cash. I've done that. On the tail end of the journey we have a sense of accomplishment that we restored an old girl.

Maybe its because we hope to find the same compassion when we become the "old boy or girl".

If the family can take this on as a project and take part in the design and decoration etc. and grunt work, the fun may begin before you leave the driveway.

Blessings


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 06/13/06 09:29am

[quote=D&Sluv2fishandcampMN]Wow, I have been reading and posting on this site for quite a while, but I never saw this thread before. It took me 3 nights of reading to get through it!

Whitenight, way to go! This thread is awesome![end quote]



Dang! It took me longer!


Hello D&Sluv and new v'er and everybody!!!

I NEVER dreamed this'd (a proper english word) go this far. We're
still working on the Kobayashi Maru little by little, she moves
under her own power now thanks to a rebuilt 360 longblock. I'm saving
for the Holley F.I. system next, the thought of being able to run
unleaded/E85 appeals to me greatly. Got the ol' Onan CCK genny up and running like a champ. Plumbing it's muffler was interesting though.
Out of it all I've learned a LOT from all of you here. And 50 pages is really a statement.

Do you think after 50 more they'll open our own "Classic Class A and
C Motorhomes" forum?!? That'd (another proper english word) be RIGHTEOUS! Now that things are slowing down more for me I can keep up better with the posts, so I'll be chiming in more often. Thanks to all
of you for making this thread what it is. And may God bless!

still crazy as I always was...

Mark (whiteknight001)


Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 06/13/06 09:05pm

I am looking forward to getting the old girl back. She is in ok shape, everything works on her. When I had her last I replaced the camper water pump, tires, battery, alternator, exhaust and probably a few other minor things I am forgetting.

Does anyone know of a place to get aftermarket accessories for these old vans? I mean like chrome pieces, wheel covers and a spoiler like the one someone posted on here, and other misc?

I am also missing the outside cover for the fridge guts. Anyone have any ideas of what to use to make another one or to buy a replacement?

I bet this thread makes it to 100 pages easy.

LETS SEE SOME PICS OF THESE OLD BEASTS!!!!!!!


Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 06/14/06 08:55pm

bump


Posted By: jims333 on 06/15/06 01:35pm

I was just given (for free) a 1978 Keystone Sprinter 26' Class A.
It's a Dodge m400 with a 440 in it. Is there anything I need to know about this RV that's special.
It has been sitting for the last 10 years so the worst thing about this is the smell but I plan on pulling the carpet anyway (1970's yellow brown shag). It has 24,000 miles on the engine and maintenance before it was stored was top notch (10 year old oil in the engine still looked and felt new).
By the way this is a great thread.
jims333


Posted By: ssvette on 06/15/06 02:03pm

Installed the Ride Rite air bags this weekend on my 1978 dodge establishment class C boy what a difference. The rearend lifted a couple of inches and the stability of the rig going down the freeway is 100% better. I just put 50psi in both so I have not played with it much, it did take a while to get the air lines from leaking but the installation was a breeze really engineered good. Next will be the fridge cooling coil kit which came today.


Posted By: new v'er on 06/15/06 02:44pm

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:



I am also missing the outside cover for the fridge guts. Anyone have any ideas of what to use to make another one or to buy a replacement?



RV Surplus in Elkhart IN or Bontragers RV in Three Rivers MI.

There is a list of RV surplus folks floating around on the net. I'm not sure where my copy is but I'll post the link when I get home.


Posted By: Sound Choice on 06/19/06 09:36am

Oh no, He's back!!!
Haven't posted since '05 but I've been reading...Hello to new folks from Ohio (original home) and K.C. MO. (current home).
Mine is a '74 Cobra 26' class a, M-400 chasis, 440-3 engine.
Like ksmoscanner, bought mine for only $2500...it was a mess!!! Since '01 Barb and I have been working on it bit by bit. New roof, new furnace,generator,frig,floor,interior, etc. etc. We did much of the work ourselves as time and MONEY was available and have loved every minute of it. I'm sure we have more in it than we could sell it for...but we don't plan on selling!!! It's been to GA, OH, AL, and most parts in between. It "bagged" a deer in Indiana and walked away gracefully. It always starts and has never refused to go where we wanted, even to all home Chiefs games. Whether we are working on it or traveling in it...IT'S GREAT and we LOVE it. The old Dodges just keep on rollin'.
I agree, we Mopars should have our own site as we are both "C"'s and "A"'s and welcome input from all Dodge owners. I also agree we should be posting pictures nad will do so as soon as I learn how if we are allowed by the Moderator. But I truly love all the stories, advice, suggestions, how-to directions, and even the plain old bragging about these great old beauties.


Posted By: Sound Choice on 06/19/06 09:52am

Note to ksmoscanner:
DO IT>>>DO IT>>>DO IT>>> fix it up. It's a great family project that the whole family can do something on. Be sure and take it places as you can while it's under repair...you'll have some great stories to tell and it will tell you what to work on next. You can do a little work on it and take the family out even if it's only to Lonvgiew Lake or down to the Ozarks for the weekend and enjoy your work-in-progress. Have fun!!!


Posted By: pazzaz25 on 06/22/06 10:59am

Hi I am getting a 1977 dodge mitchell 440 class c to do full timing workcamp in, the outside is a little rough, but only has 5k and a new rebuilt tranny, any suggestions on how to paint cheaply, or any other info I would love, am a 50 year old female going it alone with nepew would love to hear from anyone


Posted By: Dannbo on 06/22/06 03:07pm

I'm running a 440-3 in a 1974 26' with a Dodge chassis. I know they all ran on leaded fuel back then, but what about now? Are we to use a lead additive?


Posted By: DtommyD on 06/22/06 09:53pm

Well finally! I found you guys. I have searched high and low for a group like yours - hey, Ours.
1976 Class C Dodge Sportsman - 25'(?) 318 engine(?).
paid $1800 - Sleeps 6 - pull out couch- table goes down and above the driver. full bathroom.
I've had it for 3 years and have done the basics
replaced the water pump
changed the oil and wires and plugs
antifreeze
The real basics, as far as engines go, I'm not too good. But the wiring and solar I'm pretty good at.
I have had problems with the engine when it gets hot. You pull into a campground and check in. I go nuts because I know it's heating up as the person in front of me tells the clerk about a fish or something. the engine gets real sloppy. I have to press the gas to keep it going.
I have thought about a 12v secondary radiator fan just for those times. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is it. New antifreeze and everything. The current fan works. Is it a water pump thing? How do I know?

replaced the carpet with some 12" x 12" hardwood looking tiles. I actually splurged a bit and bought some expensive stuff since I only needed 2 boxes - well not even. It looks great with the rest of the wood in the RV. Plus it just took a few hours. Highly recomend.
I just turned 31 and my RV is 30 years old. I've searched the internet looking at different models and can't find a floorplan I like as much as mine. Perfect (for me and my daughter) - Wife is now ex so I get to camp more anyway.
Never have tried the gas though - take that back - I wanted to use my 20# tank so I got all the fittings. turned it on breifly and heard a leak in back of the stove. So I'll look at it at a later time. when I need hot water for a shower I just heat it on my coleman stove and use a battery powered shower thingy. Not too often so not a big problem.
I'm going to be moving in the spring of 07 and I think I'm going to live in the RV for a summer. The Ex would never let us do that so...
Anyway - I have painted the ceiling and brought the interior into the year 2000 I guess. I do want to paint the outside 1 foot wide golden stripes(its like a rough metal) that goes down both sides. It makes me feel a little too much like a pimp so I wonder if spray paint will work. Just a simple silver. The RV has had 30 years for the Gold stripes to come back into style and it just makes me feel a little funny. Maybe next year.
I'm also going to put in some track lighing on the ceiling (duh) as I am blowing bulbs and don't like 12v lighting stuff that it came with. I'll replace the 12v stuff but I just am allways hooked up to 110 or solar/12v with the power inverter.
Sorry about the longwindednessess.
Anyway - Happy to be here


Posted By: new v'er on 06/23/06 08:56am

DtommyD wrote:

I have had problems with the engine when it gets hot. You pull into a campground and check in. I go nuts because I know it's heating up as the person in front of me tells the clerk about a fish or something. the engine gets real sloppy. I have to press the gas to keep it going.
I have thought about a 12v secondary radiator fan just for those times. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is it. New antifreeze and everything. The current fan works. Is it a water pump thing? How do I know?


I just bit the bullet and replaced the radiator on the 1976 Dodge 360 and added a trans cooler even though the mechanic said it was not necessary. I'm thinking a 30 yo trans needs all the help it can get. My temp guage stays in the low normal range.


Posted By: new v'er on 06/23/06 09:04am

In regard to the painting question. I know that the boating industry has some self leveling high-luster paints that can be applied by brush and roller "Allgrip and Interlux". They supposedly don't leave brush or roller marks. If this is true would the finish be durable enough? Will it work on aluminum?


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 06/23/06 12:43pm

new v'er wrote:

In regard to the painting question. Will it work on aluminum?


New V'er

I did this to an aluminum jon boat I wanted to camo paint. The
paint stuck so well you could put duct tape on it and peel it
off with no damage. Get a product called "vinyl wash primer"-
most big paint store chains carry it, like Anchor or Sherwin
Williams. You won't need much, and it's a two part product.
Before you paint the aluminum surfaces, wash them thoroughly
with a degreaser, rinse completely and lightly scuff the surface
with fine steel wool. If there are any deep scratches, scuff them
all the way down. Use clean cloths to rinse the surface with
lacquer thinner before applying the vinyl wash primer. Apply the
primer per package instructions, and let it dry thoroughly. Then
you can prime, paint and clearcoat over it and it'll stay.

This works on any bare aluminum surface wonderfully. A friend of
mine who works for a seamless guttering company gave me the secret.
If you do this first you can paint the gutters to match the trim
perfectly. Good luck, my friend! Have fun! I'm painting mine too.
And I'm doing the exact same thing. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers!

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 06/23/06 01:13pm

DtommyD wrote:

Well finally! I found you guys. I have searched high and low for a group like yours -

I have had problems with the engine when it gets hot.
I have thought about a 12v secondary radiator fan just for those times. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is it. New antifreeze and everything. The current fan works. Is it a water pump thing? How do I know?

Sorry about the longwindednessess.
Anyway - Happy to be here


Hello DtommyD!!

I'm glad you found us. Stick around, we've got a movement goin'
on here! The Economically Enlightened Anti-Debt Consortium of the Militantly Proud Antiquated But Lovingly Maintained Travel Vehicle
Owners Association. Coming to a rearview mirror real soon!! A veritable Flotilla of highway gypsys, kindred folk and cranky old screwballs like me who decided that while new RV's and other associated vacation and pleasure land craft were just great, "paid
for and carefully maintained" is the better way. We get to go more
places because guess what we're not paying for anymore? The RIG!!

Depending on the original condition of your rig before you replaced
things, and what you replaced, is a good place to start. If you've
"done due diligence" and replaced the hoses, belts and thermostat,
have a coolant overflow recovery tank and correct radiator cap on it, then I'd probably suspect the radiator. If you have a radiator shop nearby ask about having your
radiator flushed or boiled/rodded out if it's in good shape. They may be able to flush the engine block/heater core out too. It's an investment but worth it. If you have a bugcatcher screen behind the grille to keep all the bird and frog food from getting in, get rid of it and pressure wash the outside of the radiator. Unless the water
pump is leaking ("weeping" coolant from behind the pulley and fan
through a small hole made for this purpose) or making noise I'd leave
it. If you have everything flushed, it's a darn good bet to replace it
just for the sheer peace of mind.

Auxilary fans are OK but check your coolant system first. Just my two cents though. Do what you think right, and remember- an ounce of prevention is worth more than five pounds of "cure" or repair.

Never feel like you are longwinded- just speaking for me I can say
that I enjoy reading the posts, and the more there is to a reply,
the better! Besides, I'm a real longwinded type! Welcome DtommyD- you are among friends!

Cheers!!

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001

* This post was edited 06/23/06 01:22pm by whiteknight001 *


Posted By: DtommyD on 06/24/06 09:39pm

Hey I have a dumb question.
when you measure your RV for length do you go bumper to bumpber or what. I've seen my same RV (or real close)listed as 15'. Do I measure from in back of my drivers seat on back to the bumper? Seems to me bumper to bumper right? (and no I'm not talking those 3 foot bumpers for extra gear)
And speaking of that - I want to make (because I'm cheap + want it customized) a bike rack for 2 bikes and also a bigger rubbermaid. I have a tire mounted on back but could move that to the roof(?) and use that mount. Anyone tried to make their own? My rear bumper is the 4" square basic bumper.


Posted By: new v'er on 06/26/06 07:59am

DtommyD wrote:

I want to make (because I'm cheap + want it customized) a bike rack for 2 bikes Anyone tried to make their own?


Tommy D, we all are in this for the cost avoidance and the sheer joy of splinters and blue fingernails. I purchased two THULE brackets that attach to the forks of the bike. They bolt with four 1/4 inch bolts. My system is two treated 2x4's covered with a 4x4 white composite fencepost(cut in two lengthwise.) Each half covers the 2x4.
I attached the Thule brackets to each drilling through the white composite veneer and the 2x4. I used two 2 1/4 squared bottom "u" bolts to attach each unit to the 2" receiver bar of the "Valley" basket/rack. I use ratchet straps to further secure the bikes.

Works well.

Hey White Knight,

Might there be any interest in regional rallies or get togethers?


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 06/26/06 02:54pm

Hi All,

Finally took the "Chuck Wagon" on a long run. Left the hometown and went to Raystown Lake. This was a 340 mile round trip. I have had a fan belt squeal since purchasing the MH. Changed belts, tightened them, even tried belt dressing. Well the shake down run pinpointed the problem. Shortly after getting off I-80, she started squealing something awful. A quick check of the gauges showed the alternator not working. Lo and behold the Patron Saint of Vintage Motorhomes was on my rig. 2 miles down the road sat a salvage yard. $31 and 40 minutes later we were rolling with the "Big D" under the hood churning out the power. I think the old girl enjoyed the chance to stretch her legs on the concrete pastures. She thanked me by increasing the gas mileage from 5.2 to 6.6

Had a comical incedent. The spouse was sitting in the passenger side with the window open and I was pouring the coal right to the 440 powerplant to build up speed for a long upgrade. About half way up encountered some road construction. Well the Doug Thorleys with a 4" exhaust echoed off the concrete barriers. She jumped and said "what was that noise?" I said "That's just Big D under the hood." She then said, "I'm not a motorhead but now I know why everyone including our son wants this motor. It sure did sound sweet with the rumble I heard."

White Knight, If you are taking votes for a regional and/or national gathering of us folks count us in for 2!!!

P.S. Here is an address to see the "Chuck Wagon." Let me know if you can access it. I think I have it set to be viewed by all.

http://photos.yahoo.com/unionguy1019

* This post was edited 06/26/06 03:09pm by unionguy1019 *


Posted By: sailpwr on 06/26/06 07:31pm

What a great thread. I just got a '77 Minnie Winnie with a 360cid. Its got a few age related problems- mainly from sitting, including a roof leak which I just fixed on the outside. My question involves the inside- what is behind the ceiling panels? The one that is sagging seems to have a vinyl coating, then at least a couple layers of luan, is there insulation under that between 1x2's? (I'm not anxious to pull it out to see what's in there until I know I can get time to do the repair.) My last rig was a Titan that was steel framed. I'm guessing that's not the case with the C. Has anyone found a replacement product that can be bought cheaply and looks good for ceiling panels? How about pulling the cabinets out & replacing them after ceiling repairs? Any experiences or advice would be greatly appreciated!


Posted By: IdahoJamboree on 06/26/06 10:37pm

Hello, I am newbie to your group. I found your postings by doing a google search for a problem I am having with my motorhome. I have a 1981 Dodge class "C" 21 ft. Jamboree with the the 440-3 engine. I purchased it late last summer and was in the process of moving so I never really used it. I could tell it needed valve cover gaskets by the oil burnt oil smell when I test drove it. I got it out and replaced the gaskets this summer. What a nasty job. I have replaced a few valve cover gaskets in my day and this was the worst I have seen. They were burnt to a crisp. I installed new FelPro gaskets and used the gray sealant. This got the leaks stopped.

It had a small exaust leak, but the previous owner had the crossover pipe replaced. I thought maybe a loose bolt. Not so, I changed the oil and filter checked it over and made a 400 mile trip a week ago. By the time I got home it was leaking exhaust out the right manifold quite badly.

Anyway as I said I found that my problems are not just mine by finding your posts. I need help on what to do with that exhaust manifold. I checked the bolts and the one on the rear of the manifold was just rattling around loose. I can not seem to find anyone who know where to find a replacement manifold bolt. Would welcome your help. If any of you know where I could get a manual for my Jamboree I would be grateful. Sorry about the long post.


Posted By: 1976_TIOGA on 06/27/06 10:10pm

I have a 1976 Fleetwood Tioga. I have owned it for a week and have already replaced the aging carpet for new Vinyl and I am in the process of getting new foam and upholstery done to freshen the look of this great little MH. Thanks.

* This post was edited 06/28/06 01:02am by an administrator/moderator *


1976 Fleetwood Tioga
20' Class C Motorhome
Dodge Sportsman 360 cid



Posted By: Dannbo on 06/27/06 10:10pm

Fill us in on what's so hot these day's, Bluetooth boy.


Posted By: YukonDoug on 06/29/06 12:27am

IdahoJamboree wrote:

I can not seem to find anyone who know where to find a replacement manifold bolt. Would welcome your help. If any of you know where I could get a manual for my Jamboree I would be grateful.


Try a machine shop. You'll probably find someone willing to mill you one for not a lot of money. If it's like most, you'll probably find some older guy there that will say "Hmmm, never made one of them before. This'll be neat..."


Posted By: westtexus on 06/29/06 09:37am

I bought a complete set of new exhaust manifold bolts and sleeve nuts on ebay, total cost was less than $40, as best as I remember.


Posted By: ksmoscanner on 06/30/06 02:49am

Hi again,

I was wondering if there is anyone here that would be willing to help me with a few part numbers for my 1978 Dodge RV with a 440-3 and the model stamped on the sticker is F-40 GVW 10500. Engine is stamped with 440-3 on the block.I'm looking for part numbers for Spark Plugs, distibutor with all wires, all belts. Thermostat ( which is special??) Also interested in any information on the Dodge 1978 Model F-40 as I have found none but its clearly stamped on the drivers door frame.

I admit I know almost nothing about engines. I have begun the coach rework but the engine is out of my hands. I have found someone willing to work on it at my place to see if he can get it back to running condition but he asked me to supply the parts. I have found what I think are the parts at advanced and a couple others but there is so many to choose from I figured it would ust be best to try for the actual original part numbers first.

Also does anyone have any experience with overheating their 440-3? Mine went through a nasty overheat the other night and Im concerned I could have done some damage...any opinions out there on that?

Thanks a bunch

Gregg&Lauron
1978 Dodge 440-3
24' Far West


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 06/30/06 10:51pm

I believe the F-40 is a factory model number for the MB400 cut-away van that is used for the MH. Find the VIN number and post it online so we can post the info.

I have heard that the wrong thermostat can cause heating problems and here is a quote I saved from some forum:
'The correct thermostat will have a little barrel on the bottom of the thermostat that moves down restricting water flow thru the engine and directing water thru the radiator instead. Without this type thermostat the water will just circulate thru the block over and over untill the engine heat sinks and overheats.

A Robert Shaw brand thermostat that can be purchased at Auto Zone...( I know I hate the place) is made like you need...Compare one to a Stant and you will see the difference very quickly'

Haven't had to replace my thermostat yet so don't have any part numbers. You should be able to get part numbers from any auto parts house tho'.


Posted By: DtommyD on 07/08/06 09:22pm

So maybe its the wrong place to put this but the high bidder"s name was dogeowner and I thougt of you guys.
Air conditioning with ice and a cooler.
It's an ebay ad
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&item=270004738755&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
A cool idea for our air that went out?


Posted By: timmac on 07/08/06 10:19pm

Need help here, my 79 dodge 440 runs hot on hills, have replaced radiator with a 4 core super cooler, new stat, new hoses, new cap, and installed a new large transmission cooler and 50/50 antifreeze, motor runs cool in town with Vegas high temps and stop and go with no problem, runs cool on flat highways however it all goes to #@%$* when I drive up large grades in the summer, with all this work what is going wrong or is this normal for these old dodge motorhomes...


Posted By: DtommyD on 07/08/06 10:47pm

I don't know too much -- but just an idea
Do you have a external transmission radiator.. Not too spendy but it sounds like its the hills not the heat.
Throw a 12v fan on top of that (as you may not be moving too fast to get the radiator enough air).
I live in Minnesota so don't listnen to me. I do think the transmission radiator is fairly common though.
PS - Are you towing anything? if so drop and follow through the hills.

Right?


Posted By: ssvette on 07/09/06 09:40am

timmac wrote:

Need help here, my 79 dodge 440 runs hot on hills, have replaced radiator with a 4 core super cooler, new stat, new hoses, new cap, and installed a new large transmission cooler and 50/50 antifreeze, motor runs cool in town with Vegas high temps and stop and go with no problem, runs cool on flat highways however it all goes to #@%$* when I drive up large grades in the summer, with all this work what is going wrong or is this normal for these old dodge motorhomes...


I just got back last night from Bridgeport Calif. and it was 107* at times, I changed my radiator also but along with that put in a Milodon high volume water pump and thermostat, I also changed the fan just because I wanted to cover all the bases.The rig (a 1977 dodge establishment on a MB400 chassis, 440-3 motor)had no heating issues but I did experience what I would call a small case of vapor lock the unit would act like it was out of gas and at first I thought it was a fuel filter but it would come and go not like a filter problem. I replaced the thermoquad with the edelbrock replacement carb and boy it was not cheap and it did come with the phenolic spacer but I still think this issue was a vapor lock situation, although it never put us on the side of the road 100* degree weather all the way and no overheating problems, after the first trip this was a success story.
I have to say the ride rite air bags were a big improvement in the handling of these types of motorhomes, I was a mess after the last trip and this time it was much better. If you have any questions on the mods I have done you can e-mail me ssvette@adelphia.net


Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 07/09/06 11:11am

How many of you take your old beasts on trips of 150+ miles? I have always limeted mine to about 1 hour long trips.


Posted By: ssvette on 07/09/06 11:06pm

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:

How many of you take your old beasts on trips of 150+ miles? I have always limeted mine to about 1 hour long trips.


Just got back from a 720 mile trip 7 hours each way, averaged about 8MPG not to bad but a lot of work to get it to this level. Showers everyday and everything works even the fresh water level and battery level gauges. I did install a new fan system on the fridge it kept the trout frozen all the way home.


Posted By: sa1lng on 07/10/06 07:13am

timmac wrote:

Need help here, my 79 dodge 440 runs hot on hills, have replaced radiator with a 4 core super cooler, new stat, new hoses, new cap, and installed a new large transmission cooler and 50/50 antifreeze, motor runs cool in town with Vegas high temps and stop and go with no problem, runs cool on flat highways however it all goes to #@%$* when I drive up large grades in the summer, with all this work what is going wrong or is this normal for these old dodge motorhomes...


We had a 1977 Allegro class A based on a Dodge 440 chassis. The best thing I ever did was replace the exhaust system with dual full flow systems. We never ran hot again, and the rig just ran super


Donna and Brian
Sebastian, FL
'07 Chevy Duramax 2500
08 Travel Lite Truck Camper
2008 HD RoadKing


Posted By: OldDodgeJohn on 07/10/06 07:38am

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:

How many of you take your old beasts on trips of 150+ miles? I have always limeted mine to about 1 hour long trips.


We drove ours to the beach and back. 200+ each way. It ran fine. I figure if you've got oil in the crankcase, air in the tires, coolant in the radiator, and gas in the tank you'll probably get there. That applies to all vehicles.

Only running issue I've got at the moment is the starter turns the engine very slowly after a gas stop. i.e. when the engine's hot. Engine spins fine when cold. I had to replace the starter because the old one was failing to engage reliably, but the hot start behavior is the same on the old starter and the new one. I'm going to try and add a heat shield of some sort between the engine and the starter; I'm guessing that's the problem.


Posted By: NewfMom on 07/10/06 08:06am

We have driven our 76 GMC midas about 3 hours each way. I'm still amazed how well that old thing drives! Only problem we've had on the road so far is a blowout, front driver's side. That was before I learned about tire issues, and how to check age,etc. It was scary, but DH handled it great and we lucked out with no damage underneath.


Posted By: westtexus on 07/10/06 12:30pm

Can anyone tell me if the vacuum advance on 440-3 distributer is to have constant vacuum, or not?


Posted By: ssvette on 07/10/06 01:04pm

westtexus wrote:

Can anyone tell me if the vacuum advance on 440-3 distributer is to have constant vacuum, or not?


It should be to a ported vacuum, this way the timing will change
with the increase in vacuum. Use a timing light and watch the vacuum
change as you rev-up the motor, a non-ported vacuun would be a constant advance in timing.Unported vacuum is an excellent tuning tool to see the over-all condition of the motor 17-20 at idle is ideal.


Posted By: westtexus on 07/10/06 02:09pm

I have an Edelbrock 750 carb. It has two vacuum ports on the front, one is very strong at idle, one is very weak at idle. Both provide timing advance when the engine is sped up, the timing stays at 8 degrees BTC at idle. Which port should I use?


Posted By: ssvette on 07/10/06 03:02pm

westtexus wrote:

I have an Edelbrock 750 carb. It has two vacuum ports on the front, one is very strong at idle, one is very weak at idle. Both provide timing advance when the engine is sped up, the timing stays at 8 degrees BTC at idle. Which port should I use?


Their should be little to no vacuum to the advance port during idle unless you have the idle set to high which exposes the ported vacuum slot in the bore by the butterfly notice if you reduce the idle speed the ported vacuum will drop also.

Here is another quote someone else asked it is very much like your question maybe this explaination is clearer:

On the carb, one is timed vacuum, one is ported vacuum or manifold vacuum. You are not going to get "more" vacuum from the manifold than the ported vacuum, it defies physics. Now the timed vacuum port only gives vacuum after a valve opens, butterfly that is. The timed vacuum port is above the butterfly, so at idle, that port sees little if any vacuum because it is "open" to the atmosphere (above the vacuum source, the manifold) You may get a quicker response at the distributor from the manifold because the port is about 10 times the size as the one in the carb. Some Phords have the distributor vacuum line coming right off the intake.


Posted By: bgiardi on 07/10/06 05:21pm

Hello everyone I am a very happy owner of a 1974 Robinhood RV. I paid $1300 for it and in the past month I have replaced all the interior carpets, painted it, and I was told that the old owner didn't know if any of the appliances worked or not. I have had a water heater melt down and I have replaced it with one I got on EBay. It has 360, auto, headers, and a lovely flame paint job. I will never get sick of her. On the first trip I found out that there was one leak and that is fixed now it was the front window. I love the putty tape god is great for making that. I don’t have any information on my RV but would love some. Also I have a very large knowledge about repairing anything. Handyman by trade. Sleeps 6 2 above cab, 2 on table, and to above table on a drop down bed.

* This post was edited 07/10/06 06:10pm by bgiardi *


Posted By: jollybg on 07/11/06 12:53pm

hello forum, I'm a new breed of super newbies who is completely lost when it comes to my 79 dodge sportsman heritage that i just recently purchased. I have been reading this 54 page thread for a bit, but I want to jump right in and ask a few questions. Please do not ream me I've at least tried to search... here we go:
the plan is to sorta remove some of the cabinetry. Is that possible?
I want to install a sound system (a DJ amp and 2 DJ speakers) is there enough juice? how should I setup it up? given I have no clue how the electrical system works on this baby. Do i need a generator?
The Mh has been sitting for a year but has been used once recently. What are the first thing I should do engine and maintenance wise? (its a 440)
Where can I get a manual for this baby?
I did purchase the RV repair maintenance manual by ron livingston.
Can you guys help me out?


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 07/11/06 07:03pm

jollybg wrote:

hello forum, I'm a new breed of super newbies who is completely lost when it comes to my 79 dodge sportsman heritage that i just recently purchased. I have been reading this 54 page thread for a bit, but I want to jump right in and ask a few questions. Please do not ream me I've at least tried to search... here we go:
the plan is to sorta remove some of the cabinetry. Is that possible?
I want to install a sound system (a DJ amp and 2 DJ speakers) is there enough juice? how should I setup it up? given I have no clue how the electrical system works on this baby. Do i need a generator?
The Mh has been sitting for a year but has been used once recently. What are the first thing I should do engine and maintenance wise? (its a 440)
Where can I get a manual for this baby?
I did purchase the RV repair maintenance manual by ron livingston.
Can you guys help me out?


Hello Jollybg and welcome!!

To answer your questions:

#1 "I'm a new breed of super newbies who is completely lost when it comes to my 79 dodge sportsman heritage that i just recently purchased. I have been reading this 54 page thread for a bit, but I want to jump right in and ask a few questions. Please do not ream me I've at least tried to search... here we go:"

We all were newbs at one time or another. We won't ream you because no one did that to us. Dive in!

#2 "the plan is to sorta remove some of the cabinetry. Is that possible?"

Best way? Try it on paper first. Draw out what you want to do. If
your drawing skills are like mine, get a friend's help who's good
at drawing or pictures. Try taking things out that way before you
unpack the Sawzall. Cook up a plan for finishing the project too,
like carpet/paint/trim. etc for a pro look. Plan your work, then
work your plan.

#3 "I want to install a sound system (a DJ amp and 2 DJ speakers) is there enough juice? how should I setup it up? given I have no clue how the electrical system works on this baby. Do i need a generator? I did purchase the RV repair maintenance manual by ron livingston."

Here's where you will need to do some research. If possible ask the
previous owner about the electrical system. You picked an excellent
reference manual. Go to the section on electrical and look your rig
over closely. It may have a genset or not, or an inverter Take the time to look this over carefully. On these things it's always smart to be safe- have it checked out by a local RV dealer, and add up the amount of watts used by everything you want to use in your rig. Then go from there. Leave yourself some room power-wise and use your better judgement. And have fun!

#4 "The Mh has been sitting for a year but has been used once recently. What are the first thing I should do engine and maintenance wise? (its a 440) Where can I get a manual for this baby?

Once again, crack that manual you have now. An RV rides on a 1 ton or larger truck chassis, so look things over closely. Pop the engine cover( we call it a doghouse- some have actually been used for that.)
and look at the condition of things there, hoses, belts, etc. If the
rig starts and runs good, consider doing a tuneup, changing oil and
filters, check your antifreeze and fluid levels. Make sure the brakes and tires are in good shape and regularly check air pressure. Turn on the headlights and turn signals/flashers/brake lts and make sure all are working properly. Sounds a little nitpicky but it makes all the difference. Besides, the Captain of his ship must know it inside-out
before he sets out to sea. And you are the Captain, my man. Just do
the little things regularly and you'll do well. And you'll really be
able to say: "Yeah. Have sound equipment and booking- will travel!"

Invest in a Chiltons or other repair manual for the year of Dodge
truck you own- a '79 model. Along with your RV maintenance manual you'll be well-prepared to handle things on your own as much as possible. If it is a class C (looks like a Sportsman van in front)
you can find an owners manual for incomplete cab/chassis
and have the greasy side down/motive part covered. As far as the RV body? Well, that'll take a little doing. Post pix of your rig and ask if anyone has one like it, or manuals to share copies of. We'll try to
help you that way.

Once again, welcome! And good luck with all your efforts! You can DJ
the national rally for us.

your greasy compadre

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 07/11/06 07:06pm

bgiardi wrote:

Hello everyone I am a very happy owner of a 1974 Robinhood RV. I paid $1300 for it and in the past month I have replaced all the interior carpets, painted it, and I was told that the old owner didn't know if any of the appliances worked or not. I have had a water heater melt down and I have replaced it with one I got on EBay. It has 360, auto, headers, and a lovely flame paint job. I will never get sick of her. On the first trip I found out that there was one leak and that is fixed now it was the front window. I love the putty tape god is great for making that. I don’t have any information on my RV but would love some. Also I have a very large knowledge about repairing anything. Handyman by trade. Sleeps 6 2 above cab, 2 on table, and to above table on a drop down bed.


Welcome Bgiardi!!

You gotta post some pic's of your rig. I know it's sweet with
a flame job!!! Let's see it!

Mark a.k.a whiteknight001


Posted By: regal5575 on 07/12/06 09:01am

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:

How many of you take your old beasts on trips of 150+ miles? I have always limeted mine to about 1 hour long trips.

We take our 1970 Travco from Michigan to Florida and back every winter. 1220 miles, one-way.


Posted By: thehoneybees on 07/14/06 11:52pm

We purchased a 1980 Dodge Sportsman chassis V8 360, with a 1981 Honey 23' foot motorhome, sleeps 6 people . All original intererior in good condition. Microwave, full bathroom with tub/shower sink and toilet, 3way frig, A/C,furnace, rollout carefree awning,TV antenna.
Came with a file folder with all the original manuals for everything and all maintanence records.

The outside ladder had been removed (damaged) by the previous owner. We found a ladder and luggage rack, lens covers, I even found 2 sink cover boards that fit over the sinks, radio antenna, vinyl cover for dodge van windshield/driver/passenger windows at a local salvage/junk yard, for a great price.

I was surprised there were only 3 motorhomes at the junk yard we went to. And one just happen to the same year dodge.

Any colorado people know of any RV salvage/junk yards anywhere in Denver?
Realized after purchasing the Honey motorhome that it is an orphaned
company last models were made in 1990. Anyone know of any websites for our classic motorhome.
How do we find out what size of a quiet generator to purchase?
I have seen these small Honda generators,seems convenient for lifting out of the motorhome and placing outside for use.
We camp in backwoods country, not rv parks.

What a change this will be after years of truck/cabover camper, then
last few years of tent/tarps camping. I doubt we will every give up all our tarps,chuckbox etc. LOL

We are in the process of getting the ladder and luggage rack mounted. And me going thru years of camping gear.

Glad you started this thread about Dodge Classics!!!


Posted By: thehoneybees on 07/15/06 12:33am

Forgot to mention that we plan to tow a trailer with one of our
4x4 Suzuki Samurai's. Not new to towing the trailer, we used the same setup on our old truck/camper. Hopefully the weight limits for the new to us 1980 Dodge Sportsman 360, Honey 23' motorhome, will be accepting of our trailer and which ever Samurai we load to take to the mountains.


Any of the seasoned RVers with advise. please reply


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 07/16/06 01:51pm

Honeybees, we also camp in the back woods. As far as the gen. our rig did not have the original Onan. We purchased a Honda 2500 watt. We have abused this generator to its unintended limits and 3 years later it still gives us power. However if I have to some day do it all over I would go with a 4000 to 5000 watt unit. We have found that on some occaisions we need to shut down some things to use others.

Hope this helps.

[quote=thehoneybees]
How do we find out what size of a quiet generator to purchase?
I have seen these small Honda generators,seems convenient for lifting out of the motorhome and placing outside for use.
We camp in backwoods country, not rv parks.
Quote:



* This post was edited 07/21/06 04:18pm by unionguy1019 *


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 07/21/06 04:16pm

Does any one have the timing set ups for the 1973 440-3 motor?

Have checked different places and cannot find the info.

Need to know degrees of timing BTDC @ "what" RPM.

Thanks
Mike


Posted By: timmac on 07/23/06 04:53pm

Just wondering if any one is using there dodge RV with the 440 motor in outside temps above 100 degrees and climbing large long hills what is your temp gauge reading, my runs hot on large hills with the temps outside at 105 plus [does not boil over] but runs ok on flat roads and ok in town, have new radiator,[4 core] 2 trans coolers, new thermostat, new rad cap,[16lbs] new HD fan clutch and new hoses, is this normal for old 440"s or is it just mine....

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Posted By: new v'er on 07/24/06 03:35pm

Anyone having intermittent heat readings on the gauge (like low-normal then dead after 30 minutes)

I gave up on the gas gauge and just do the math on the mileage.


Posted By: new v'er on 07/24/06 03:37pm

I believe the biggest lie of the industrial age is the concept of the "sleeper" sofa.

The pitiful mattress in the sofa allows the dreaded "bar in the back" syndrome.

Any ideas as to really improving the situation?


Posted By: munkalido on 07/25/06 01:36pm

[quote=timmac]Just wondering if any one is using there dodge RV with the 440 motor in outside temps above 100 degrees and climbing large long hills what is your temp gauge reading, my runs hot on large hills with the temps outside at 105 plus [does not boil over] but runs ok on flat roads and ok in town, have new radiator,[4 core] 2 trans coolers, new thermostat, new rad cap,[16lbs] new HD fan clutch and new hoses, is this normal for old 440"s or is it just mine....[/quote] Mine runs hot when pulling hills in the heat. Over Independence Day week, we were in Central Washington and it was about 110. We pulled one pass and some other steep hills. Temp would climb to just over half way on the gauge (230??). I'm not sure what the thermostate is at, probably 180 I'm guessing. I know the radiator cap is 13# and probably too light. I don't know how big my radiator is but I do see an oil cooler and a tranny cooler. I was pulling a small trailer with a small quad on it (and some other camping stuff).

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Posted By: thesecondhand on 07/26/06 06:17pm

Hello all...me and my band just bought our RV about three months ago and have been working on it ever since. It is a 1978 Georgie Boy Dodge M400 class A motorhome. We picked it up for $500 from some guy who wanted it off his property. It is in amazing shape, runs great, has running water, working generator, workin A/C, frig, propane, shower, good solid frame, etc...It was a real steal. We love the thing and we are looking to network with other owners to share our experience and learn from theirs. We are installing music recording equipment to make it a mobile recording studio. It runs on a Dodge 440 big block, that seems to have a lot of life and power in it. We've had a hard time with the brakes because we needed new front rotors and they are really hard to find for a reasonable price. Everywhere that has them is asking $325+ for each of them, when they should be more like $100, but they don't manufacture them anymore...Our mechanic is on the job now trying to find a cheaper more reasonable solution, but we might have to bite the bullet. I've talked to a few guys who still manufacture these rotors, but they claim they are the only ones that still make parts for the brake system in this vehicle and thus charge exorbinant amounts of money. If anyone has any advice on where to go for parts, or wants to share any knowledge on these things it would be welcome and appreciated...We can tell everything we have learned to...Our rig came with all the original manuals, spec sheets, build sheets, and even the 30 year old warrantees! Amazing...The name of our band is The Second hand, and there are some pics on our myspace account of the RV: http://www.myspace.com/thesecondhandband - We're taking it cross-country on tour in about a week and can't wait...


Posted By: Beegex on 08/01/06 05:15am

Hi,
Another new one here, but in England, across the water.
I have recently bought myself a Dodge MH, a 1981 Travel Cruiser. Haven't been able to find out much about it, other than the great help from these pages. The VIN is F44CD9Vxxxxxx, which should make it a 440, but the documents all say 6550cc, making it a 400. It should be a 79 chassis, built and then imported to UK in 1981.

Any help on the history of this brand would be greatly appreciated.

It is not easy getting parts for this van here, but I'm going to stick with it. It is currently undergoing mechanical restoration (steering box, gearbox cooler and brakes among other things) before the insides get dealt with.

The price was very cheap (by comparison) and we can afford to do it up the way we want it. Not sure about paying for the fuel... It is now 99p/litre ($6.80/USgal) so running costs might be high.

So far, though, I love this Dodge.

Cheers.


Posted By: Manalishi on 08/03/06 04:14pm

Hello All. I recently purchased a 1978 Dodge Delta. It's the MB400 with a 440 engine. I'm having all sorts of trouble finding places for parts. I can find M300,M400, etc..but no MB400. I'm specifically looking for Monroe shocks. I THINK I need 555011/555012 but I'm not sure. Any help with user friendly websites would be appreciated, or anything I can use to search for parts for my Delta. I love it and got it for a good price, but it needs a bit of work and I can't find parts. I also read there was a recall on the front end on this chassie, something about the steering linkage.

Thanks All


Posted By: new v'er on 08/16/06 06:28am

We are out in the old girl and having a ball. All is working well and the many hours have been worth the effort. We are comming to the second complete year she has been in service. I hope you all are having a great RV season


Posted By: anhusky on 08/16/06 01:01pm

Hi everyone,
I just bought a 1978 Dodge Delta with a 440 V8 (52,000 miles) from a friend. This coach is amazing, it looks brand new. The interior is spotless, everything down to night light on floor works. The exterior is in the same excellent condition. His father bought it new and when it wasn't being used it was in a temperature controlled garage. When his father died he didn't have any place to put it. Also, he is not the camping type so he decided to sell it. I've known him for a long time so he sold it to me for $4500.00.
I took it to a RV shop just to make sure everything was in working order. The tech told me he has never seen one this old in this good of condition. I have already had six people want to buy it and I have only had it a month. I really lucked out.
I've always wanted to own a coach but didn't want to spend the 40 thousand up to buy one.
My problem now is I don't know the first thing about owning a MH. Thankfully, I found this excellent forum with all you knowledgeable people to help me through the growing pains.





* This post was edited 08/28/06 06:45pm by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: new v'er on 08/17/06 06:26am

Hi ANHUSKY,

WOW

Enjoy!!!


Posted By: Dannbo on 08/21/06 10:07pm

Just took my "new motorhome" on a 500 mile trek thu the cascades and had a great run. It's a 29' 1975 Executive "A" on Dodge with the 440-3. I just replaced the old Thermaquad carb with a new one and loved it. For the people having problems with heat on hills...This is my solution. I have an aftermarket vacuum ,tack, tranny temp and coolant guage. When I get to a large hill, instead of just pinning it and slowly loosing speed in a high gear, I drop down gears as required to keep up rpm and power, watch my guages and never get over 200 deg. My trany temp stays low also. Be patiant, put the flashers on and enjoy the sights. I can pull up any hill without overheating so far. On a large grade mountain pass I may be down to 20mph for 15 minutes or more, but I never have problems with heat. Keeps the fan clutch going as well. This is what works for me. I would love to here of peoples situations with this. I also blew out a rear dual on this trip, but that's another story!


Posted By: Dannbo on 08/21/06 10:10pm

I have no idea why some of my words on my last post are underlined and linked.


Posted By: Leeann on 08/22/06 07:39pm

We just bought a 1975 El Dorado class c - Dodge Sportsman 360 cid - sight unseen on eBay. I'm pretty excited! Though we can't pick it up until Sept. 9th.

Let's see...according to the listing, the motor runs well, the tranny's good, the tires are good. The battery is dead and it might need an alternator (or to have the wire ends replaced/cleaned). It does need a water pump and a toilet. The stove/oven work, as does the tub/shower and dual sink. All the cushions seem to be present and in decent shape. The floor isn't carpeted, it's either linoleum or fake wood made to look like parquet. The fresh water and grey water tanks were replaced, along with all the lines.

No mention is made in the listing of a fridge or generator, though it looks from the outside they exist (or did at some point).

We'll bring a battery, wire ends of all sorts, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, fuel filter, air filter, etc - and all the assorted tools - with us. Is there anything we should look for before we drive this thing 3 1/2 hours home?

Does anyone, by any chance, happen to have a manual for this thing? We're fine with the motor and tranny, but it'd be nice to know about the wiring/plumbing/gas line stuff.

Thanks!



* This post was edited 08/24/06 10:08pm by Leeann *


'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo


Posted By: ksmoscanner on 08/23/06 10:50pm

Has anyone replaced a radiator on a '78 MB400 style MH? I cant seem to find one that has both the connections on the right hand side. This is my last item I need before I can make anymore progress on the rebuild. Seems the bearings in the water pump went out and somehow the fan contacted the radiator and put a circular cut in the core. Have been told it was unrepairable and will need a new radiator. Any info what I could use would be very appreciated. Can a radiator this old be fixed?

1978 Dodge MB400 440-3
VIN F44CD7V052503

Thanks,

Gregg in Kansas City


Posted By: timmac on 08/24/06 03:54pm

Ksmoscanner > I had same problem trying to find a new radiator for my 79 dodge rv with both connections on same side, so I took it to a radiator shop and had them put in a new core and not just any core a 4 core super cooler, this would be the best way to go so all bolts will line back up at install..


Posted By: Sound Choice on 08/25/06 06:17am

To ksmoscanner:
Hey Gregg...Take the radiator to Ed's Radiator about 81st and prospect (Mo side) they did my recore few years back and did a good job. Make sure they replace the internal baffle that distributes the water across the top of the radiator. Good luck on your Rv rebuild. I'm still working on mine and loving it (1974 Cobra Dodge MB-400 chasis, 440-3 engine, 26').
Kc


Posted By: ksmoscanner on 08/28/06 12:52am

Thanks for the info on the recore. I will be taking it to Ed's tomorrow!



Thanks again

Gregg


Posted By: new v'er on 09/09/06 05:51pm

Hi all,

The suburban furnace won't allow the pilot to stay lit. I have never used the unit and we are on the road and looking at cool nights in a boondocking situation.

I suspect a thermocouple issue but maybe I'm overlooking something simple.

  • ckecked main valve for open
  • checked hand valve for open
  • thermostat is at lowest but not off
  • pilot stays lit only when holding in the reset

Your input will be warmly appreciated


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 09/13/06 08:05am

Hey new rver, its sounds like the thermocouple could be bad. Does your unit have a blower on it or just a convection type furnace? With the thermostat turned on in a forced air unit the blower should come on. This may or may not affect your pilot sensor relay, I do know however if the blower relay does not sense the blower on it will not let the main burner light. More than likely I would go with a new thermocouple, if it turnes out to be more serious you only got about $5 into it and some labor.


Posted By: timmac on 09/22/06 09:53pm

Has any body installed leaf spring helpers on there old dodge rv, my 79 dodge class c springs sag and need a lift, how ever the room between leaf spring and floor/braces to rv is very little and I cant see if I will be able to fit a hellwig helper in this tight spot, has any one done so and what brand of helper did you use...


Posted By: donandmax on 09/23/06 06:40am

Just bought a Dodge 1980 Mobile Traveler for 3500.00 42,000 actual miles. Great shape with 360 eng. new tires. Needs new gas valve on furnace.. Old fridge works great on 110 and propane. Now if I can only stop the roof leaks. But then I hear they are famous for leaks and dry rot. Oh well I'll enjoy it while I can. Off to the store for some Kool Seal !
Don


If it aint broke fix it till it is


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 09/28/06 09:32am

Hey folks thought I would share these web sites with all. I recently bought a electronic ignition Suburban furnace on e-bay to replace the pilot ingnition in the old girl. Couldn't get the new furnace to light and needless to say the dealers around here wanted me to bring it in for diagnostics @ $54.00 per hour labor. One good thing about finding this site was I also corrected the backfiring problem in the original furnace. So now I can put the old one back in with no mods.

Hope this helps someone else as much as it did me!!!!

Here is the Service Manual:

http://www.dudesrv.com/pdfs/SuburbanServiceManual.pdf


Here is the Tech Manual:

http://www.dudesrv.com/pdfs/SuburbanTechManual.pdf

Sorry about all the edits, couldn't get the URL to work, I think it will now.

Mike


Posted By: new v'er on 10/01/06 07:07am

Wonderful help UnionGuy. Thanks for the links.

Sad Time of the year. I hate buying the pink juice (antifreeze). I think of it as Nyquil for the RV.

Wow. Did the air suspension make a difference in ride and stability when on a site. A couple times we did not use the stabilizer jack stands.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/01/06 11:35pm

So ...... how many 413 or 440ers out there ? ... anyone do any experimentations with camshafts, fuel delivery and exhaust systems?

How about a MAJOR rear end gear change?


Posted By: timmac on 10/04/06 11:56pm

MasterBoondocker> 440 motor, holley TBI 2D Fuel Injection, can use E-85[ethanol] or unleaded gas or any mix, straight flow thru muffler, cold air inject tube for TBI, every thing else is stock and fuel mileage jump to 8-9 mpg,[9 1/2 mpg at 55 mph] runs smooth, starts easy like a new fuel injected motor, has lots of spare power, check my pic on profile..........


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/06/06 11:21pm

Yo tim ...sorry I missed this.

That mpg of yours .... jump to 8-9? ...from what? ... and was that a TQ? Do you have a A/F gauge on it? .... you planning to build a E85 motor? What is your rpm at 55mph?

That Holley TBI ? ... did you try FLOGGING the other carb first? BTW .. I had a Travco Class C a couple of years ago.

Have you ever had any front rubber brake line issues?


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 12:35pm

MaserBoondocker> My best mileage with stock or upgraded carb was 6-7 mpg and vapor lock problems, because of our heat here in Vegas, the Holley TBI 2D 670 cfm fuel injection system has been the best thing I have done for my RV, starts better, runs smooth, good performance, no more vapor lock problems, can adjust fuel flow at dash for high elevation or E-85 fuel, I mounted my tbi controller at dash so I can easily adjust on the fly, my new gas mileage at 8-9 mpg is real and can get 9-1/2 at 55 with stock gears and 3 speed automatic, also you do not need to rebuild motor for E-85, only need to redo gas line for ethanol, change fuel filter after 600 miles of E-85 use, increase fuel flow a little and advance timing about 4 degrees with stock pistons, my rpm is 3000 at 60 mph, and I plan on installing a fuel ratio gage some day but have had no need as of yet, and cost was around $1000.00, tbi cost $800.00 at checker auto they have the best price and you can buy from there web site also, you will need additional parts but depends on your vehicle that is being installed on and a return fuel line if it does not have one, changing pistons, cams, gears, and other internal parts don't always increase gas mileage, better fuel/air ratio management is the answer, and a over drive would also help, hope this helps, check my profile pic, my RV was made by the same first maker of the travco motorhomes, [Ray Frank]...

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* This post was last edited 10/07/06 01:03pm by timmac *


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 04:35pm

But tim ...with E85 fuel only ....you should increase compression ratio by 2 points or so. I do not understand how the auto companies can build these vehicles and call them "flex".

What are you using for an intake manifold?


Posted By: Dodge Liberator on 10/07/06 05:33pm

I have recently Purchased A 1974 Liberator With a mb300 chassis ( near as I can figure out after looking at dodge parts manuels) and 318 engine for $750 and my wife was a little skeptical but after a little paint and decorating she is excited about it. Had a little work to do to it as someone took window air out and left home open to elements for 10yrs Have repaired that and where the siding had came loose at back. Got the brakes all working and am now working on water sytems as they were in bad shape. Gas was so old it took lots of gas additive to get it home but once they took hold engine runs fine now. Might have to do some steering repair as wants to wander a little right now.Frig is working now after several attempts and am not quite sure how I managed that.

* This post was edited 10/08/06 04:22am by Dodge Liberator *


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 06:16pm

MasterBoondocker> I have a stock intake manifold, Increasing piston compression will burn E-85 more efficiently but is not really needed to convert motor to run on E-85, New flex fuel autos still have to meet federal emissions laws so piston compression can not be to high, if so it will burn more dirty when using regularly fossil fuel, this is why the muscle car era ended to meet emissions laws, lower the compression, slow down the timing and they can control the burn and clean up the exhaust, besides my motor still runs strong no need for a overhaul yet, but when I do I might increase piston compression a little but I have to be careful because we here in Las Vegas still have to have a emissions test done every year, E-85.com and other ethanol web sites have info on changing motors to run on E-85 and just increasing fuel flow and bumping up timing and changing fuel lines does the job ok, remember mpg increase begins at proper fuel management.......[fullflexint.com has kits for newer autos to convert to E-85, check it out].....

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Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 06:29pm

tim ....a stock IRON intake ? .... you know that you can do LOTS better than that.

BTW ...do you have a vacuum gauge ?


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 06:37pm

Yes it would maybe be better but every thing runs just fine and why mess with it, besides I have have redone the entire inside, new upholstery, carpet, toilet, frig, blinds, cushions, etc, etc, and wife says I need to slow the spending down and spend more time camping.......


Posted By: sepisllib on 10/07/06 06:39pm

Dodge Liberator wrote:

I have recently Purchased A 1974 Liberator With a mb300 chassis ( near as I can figure out after looking at dodge parts manuels) and 318 engine for $750 and my wife was a little skeptical but after a little paint and decorating she is excited about it. Had a little work to do to it as someone took window air out and left home open to elements for 10yrs Have repaired that and where the siding had came loose at back. Got the brakes all working and am now working on water sytems as they were in bad shape. Gas was so old it took lots of gas additive to get it home but once they took hold engine runs fine now. Might have to do some steering repair as wants to wander a little right now.Frig is working now after several attempts and am not quite sure how I managed that.


In 1981 I bought a 1973 Dodge powered 30 foot Class "A" Surveyor motorhome. It turned out to be a neat rig - had quite a few problems but engine was the invinceable 440. Had a few issues with it at first - but got running well. Put in twin large diameter exhaust pipes all the way to rear with large glass packs.

Going through the passes on Hwy 7 in Arkansas - the entire valley could hear her bellering. Never did drop below 45 mph up any of the grades though - power was great. Mileage - that was something else - 6.5 was the best it would do. Not towing anything at all. Had fun in it though. Doesn't even come close to what I have now - but fond memories remain.



God Bless

Bill


Bill W. Trammell
Wife - Judy
2001 Monaco Dynasty Chancellor
2008 Malibu 2LT toad


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 06:50pm

Bill I thought that motorhome pic you have there was a new one but profile says its a 93 [wow] is that a new paint job.....

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Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 07:28pm

timmac wrote:

Yes it would maybe be better but every thing runs just fine and why mess with it, besides I have have redone the entire inside, new upholstery, carpet, toilet, frig, blinds, cushions, etc, etc, and wife says I need to slow the spending down and spend more time camping.......


BUTTT ....you know that you could probably pick-up another 2-4 mpg with a MPG intake. BETTER fuel-air automization.

Did you do any UPgrades to the paneling and ceiling etc? ... I got a quote for mine(a 25 footer) .... REdoing it in knoty-pine ....GUESS how much the quote was?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 07:31pm

sepisllib wrote:



In 1981 I bought a 1973 Dodge powered 30 foot Class "A" Surveyor motorhome. It turned out to be a neat rig - had quite a few problems but engine was the invinceable 440. Had a few issues with it at first - but got running well. Put in twin large diameter exhaust pipes all the way to rear with large glass packs.

Going through the passes on Hwy 7 in Arkansas - the entire valley could hear her bellering. Never did drop below 45 mph up any of the grades though - power was great. Mileage - that was something else - 6.5 was the best it would do. Not towing anything at all. Had fun in it though. Doesn't even come close to what I have now - but fond memories remain.



A 73 with a 440 ? ...are you sure? ....and 6.5 mpg ? .... B E S T ??... !! ...what was the WORST ?


Posted By: Big_John on 10/07/06 07:46pm

I bought a '79 Dodge this afternoon!

440 engine, 25' Ozark Traveler. It needs a few cosmetics, but it runs great.

I have to do something about the seats though. The captains chairs (driver and passenger) were probably great when it was new, but I'd like to upgrade them to something a bit more comfy.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 08:39pm

Big_John wrote:

I bought a '79 Dodge this afternoon!

440 engine, 25' Ozark Traveler. It needs a few cosmetics, but it runs great.

I have to do something about the seats though. The captains chairs (driver and passenger) were probably great when it was new, but I'd like to upgrade them to something a bit more comfy.


Do you know what is perfect - comfy ? ...and cheap? ... a set of darkgrey fabric late-model Dodge minivan seats.


Posted By: Big_John on 10/07/06 09:02pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:



Do you know what is perfect - comfy ? ...and cheap? ... a set of darkgrey fabric late-model Dodge minivan seats.


That sounds just like what I'm looking for. Comfy and cheap always works great for me. Hmmm...will the dark gray go with the orange dash though? LOL

There's a "Pick and Pull" junk yard near me. I'll hit it next week.


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 10:14pm

MasterBoondocker> I don't think you can pickup that kind of extra mileage from just a intake manifold on a motorhome, factory manifolds are not that bad off, maybe a 1/2 gal per mile but not 2-4 mpg, my interior walls and ceiling is still in great shape, no soft spots or leaks this motorhome was built to last and last even factory baked on paint job shines and stripes are painted on, not to many rv makers than and now build them like this, Ray Frank and his sons were top off there heap for rv motorhomes, started with the frank motorhome, than dodge motorhome, which changed name to travco than he moved on to his last masterpiece the Xplorer's, even the vacuum step by door still works and was built by Ray Frank, he is the grandfather of motorhomes, brought the world the first manufactured motorhomes, before that you had to make it yourself or pay someone to make it...


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 10:50pm

tim ..... I can think of TWO manifolds that will get you lots closer to 2-4 mpg ... than to your low # of .5. Again ... they both have better distribution and they automize the fuel better.

Do you have a vac guage? ... what is your crusing sweet-spot ? ... both rpm and speed? Have you ever had probs with your front brake hoses?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/07/06 10:54pm

Big_John wrote:

MasterBoondocker wrote:



Do you know what is perfect - comfy ? ...and cheap? ... a set of darkgrey fabric late-model Dodge minivan seats.


That sounds just like what I'm looking for. Comfy and cheap always works great for me. Hmmm...will the dark gray go with the orange dash though? LOL

There's a "Pick and Pull" junk yard near me. I'll hit it next week.


There IS a much lighter cloth interior than that grey ...KIND of similar to a lite bronze ? ... but it is tough to find.

BTW ...the last set I picked up .....were 50 beans ... for the SET.


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 11:04pm

masterboondocker> what manifold company sells that and do they claim that, the big 3 would also like to know, no vacuum gauge, but tests on vacuum shows up real good, no problems so far with front brake hoses, I like to drive 60-65 mph seems to drive best here and still handles good, but best gas mileage is 55-60. 3000 rpm at 60 mph...


Posted By: timmac on 10/07/06 11:10pm

masterboondocker> what is your rig, and will there be a pic soon....


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/08/06 12:19am

timmac wrote:

masterboondocker> what manifold company sells that and do they claim that, the big 3 would also like to know, no vacuum gauge, but tests on vacuum shows up real good, no problems so far with front brake hoses, I like to drive 60-65 mph seems to drive best here and still handles good, but best gas mileage is 55-60. 3000 rpm at 60 mph...


BOTH Edelbrock intakes..... models being Streetmaster and the SP2P.

Have you heard of the famous issues with those hoses?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/08/06 12:21am

timmac wrote:

masterboondocker> what is your rig, and will there be a pic soon....


My rig is a 1973 Discoverer ....25 foot Class A.....413 power. I have tried posting a pic but without success.


Posted By: sepisllib on 10/08/06 04:56am

[quote=timmac]Bill I thought that motorhome pic you have there was a new one but profile says its a 93 [wow] is that a new paint job.....[/quote] No - like most of you I like the older rigs as I really feel the build quality is better on most of the unit. Have been told by a tow truck driver that the new rigs he has towed - the chassis build is getting cheaper and lighter all the time. He sometimes has a unit that just will not handle being towed so he turns the job down. He advised me to keep what I have (instead of buying new) - the frame and drive chain in my rig was "bullet proof". The paint job is an aftermarked job - it is really neat and I love it except for the one brown color. I bought new storage doors (old ones all are made of wood and need replacing badly) and since the bottom part makes up a heavy share of that color - I am going to change the color slightly. From photos - I will take as I complete the job - most will not be able to tell the difference in color when I get done. In answer to one question on 440 engine - yes - is was the 440 engine. I was not the original owner - so is it possible that someone replaced it -- yes. That thing sure ran good though. Power was good and mileage was terrible. The 6.5 was absolutely the best and driving in mountains I did fill up a couple times and it was less than 5. It was a hungry girl. Gas was cheap at that time though. Fond memories will be with me forever on that motorhome though - family enjoyed it and we traveled with kids and all. God Bless Bill

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Big_John on 10/08/06 06:58am

MasterBoondocker wrote:



BOTH Edelbrock intakes..... models being Streetmaster and the SP2P.



FWIW, Back in the early eighties, I had a SP2P manifold on a '73 440 that I had in a '67 D100 truck. It had a stock cam with exhaust manifolds. It had lots of low end torque for towing and I was pretty happy with the manifold.

Gas mileage wasn't too much of a concern to me at the time, so I can't comment one way or the other.


Posted By: Koldei on 10/08/06 10:25am

MasterBoondocker wrote:


My rig is a 1973 Discoverer ....25 foot Class A.....413 power. I have tried posting a pic but without success.


if ya'd like to mail one off to me i'll post it on the server where mine is kept.
koldei (at) ameritech (D) net



robert

fwiw his looks like this:


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 10/08/06 03:20pm

Big_John wrote:

MasterBoondocker wrote:



BOTH Edelbrock intakes..... models being Streetmaster and the SP2P.



FWIW, Back in the early eighties, I had a SP2P manifold on a '73 440 that I had in a '67 D100 truck. It had a stock cam with exhaust manifolds. It had lots of low end torque for towing and I was pretty happy with the manifold.

Gas mileage wasn't too much of a concern to me at the time, so I can't comment one way or the other.


Both are GOOD manifolds ...... but the SP2P runs out-of-steam at 4500 or so.

I have run the SM myself .... since it was only one available to me at the time I put it on my 413. Then I put a TQ on it .... and will be tweaking the primary circuit for mpg.

When the new motor is done ....I will probably go with the SP2P ... better fuel/air atomization - IMO.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 10/18/06 09:33am

Hey new v'er and others. I may put in the pink juice but that doesn't mean I put the lively girl to sleep. She may take a week or two nap, but usually is used at least 40 of 52 weeks. Below is a link to some of my camping photos.

www.photos.yahoo.com/unionguy1019

You may have to click and paste. I can never get the link to work without it listing the URL 3 times.


Posted By: timmac on 11/06/06 10:12pm

Hay what kind of spark plug are you Dodge guys using in a 440 mtr, I have been using Bosch with no problems but am going to change plugs soon and wonder if any great results with a certain plug...high end...stock...E3....halo....copper....platinum......iridium...etc...


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 11/07/06 01:49am

I vote for Bosch also.


Posted By: pbe10 on 11/07/06 05:25am

Dodge M-400, vintage 1972 Superior. Most of my help came from the "Durable Dodge" group, hundreds of members to offer help.


Posted By: oldvolks on 11/07/06 08:00am

Just picked up a '77 Gladiator Crusader 22'. Has the 360 with 2 barrel. I'm the 3rd owner, 46K miles. Looks like just needs a good cleanup, & a little tlc. Going to try short 2 nighter in a couple weeks, can't wait to see how it does. Glad to see I'm not the only person who doesn't think you have to buy something new to enjoy yourself.


Posted By: greatgranny on 11/10/06 12:59am

My husband and I have a 1976 Dodge Gypsy motor home. We bought it in 1978. Had some water damage and made a mess of it. Himself asked me we should do with it and since it was paid for, I said, lets tear it down and rebuild. So we did.

We used as much as we could from the old unit. We added 18” to the end of it to lengthen it because we wanted a perment bed in the back. The original had a dinning area in the back that broke down into a bed.

We used metal box beams and bolted them to the bed of the dodge and extended the length that way. Put in lots of insulation on the floor, walls and ceiling. Built the walls with 2x2’s and plywood. The bloody thing could stand up on it’s roof it‘s that strong. Added a generator and roof air condioner as the original one did not have one.

Now we need to replace the carpet in the cab, but don’t know where to go for that. We had to stop work on it because we were taking care of my mother-in-law. She pass away last year so we are back working on it. Has been quite a job.

Lyn


Posted By: jmangrum on 11/10/06 09:35pm

we love our 1978 travlequeen on the m-500 chasis. everything is original and still works. its simple to work on and has less of todays gadgets to fail.


1978 Travel Queen 27' class a
440 cid gas 727 tranny
62,000 miles Dodge M-500 chassis
onan 4.0 kW
Family of four and pepper the poodle
motor home pic http://www.flickr.com/photos/j_man46/



Posted By: proceed_net on 11/12/06 02:58am

Well, here goes. Going to try and post a pic of my rig.


* This post was edited 11/12/06 03:09am by proceed_net *


Posted By: proceed_net on 11/12/06 03:02am

Nope, didn't work. Gonna try to post a pic o' rig, again.



Posted By: clockwork oranjaboom on 12/02/06 02:37pm

I've a '78 American Clipper w/ 440. 108k miles, uses a bit of oil but runs strong. Currently rewiring the main panel- I love mechs who modify and fail to document the changes...


Posted By: Leeann on 12/03/06 01:38pm

Well, we've got the '75 El Dorado 19-1/2' (Dodge 360) up for sale - it just didn't fit our needs. Have 2 bites already.

So we bought a '73 Concord Class A 20' with a Dodge 440 instead. It fits every need we have and only needs a little work to get it useable. The motor's in great shape - we just had to do general maintenance to it. A 3-way fridge, furnace, water heater, water pump (though we are putting our brand-new one in its place), generator, toilet, factory-installed tow hitch, etc are already installed and we don't have to build any new cabinets for them or weld on a hitch. Everything's in working condition; we just have to put a muffler on the Onan (it's hanging there but not attached to the pipe). We have a muffler that will do the job nicely.

We do have to cut out a section of flooring and replace it with marine-grade plywood. The original floor is sawdust pressboard and has almost rotted through. And there are a couple sections of interior ceiling that we have to replace thanks to old leaks. I think we're going to rip it all out and put up new, but we haven't decided yet.

A pic is on my profile page. It needed a darn good cleaning, inside and out (see the green?), but we're well on our way to accomplishing that.


Posted By: spokaneronk on 12/25/06 09:45am

We bought a 77 Delta with the Dodge 440 motor, etc. I have a concern regarding the engine vibration I experience with this unit. At idle it seems to be smooth and stays that way to about the 1500-2000 rpm then developes a vibration which will go away at higher rpms. We bought this unit for the weekend excursions out with our Quads or for shorter fishing trips. We have a 36 foot Rexair we use for our "snowbird" stuff in Az. We wanted something cheap we could use for the more local activities. Anyway, any ideas's on the vibration and also comments on the likelyhood of experiencing overheating problems with this engine. It is a cute little rig and has built in generator and air conditioning. Would sure like for this to be a reliable rig without putting big bucks in it. Any info would be appreciated.


Ronk
2000 Rex Air
35' two slides
Triton V10
2003 Suzuki XL-7
One ornery little Shih Tsu (hope I got that right.)


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 12/26/06 01:57pm

Hey Spok
I would check for a vacuum leak somewhere. That sounds like it could be your problem. As far as the 440 motor, I have had no problem with overheating, mine seems to run a bit on the cool side.


Posted By: Leeann on 12/26/06 01:59pm

^ Same here - mine idles and revs rather smoothly and runs slightly cool, too (mine's a '73).


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 12/27/06 09:39am

I have a 1975 Dodge American Clipper 68K mikes, look nice and crusie good, just need to fix litlle thing I hope little, we have taken on few trips so far, fun fun fun

jc from Ceres, CA
1964 Comet 404 Wagon
1964 Comet Calinta
1965 Comet Cyclone 4spd, hi-po
1975 Dodge RV American Clipper
2005 Kia Sporty


Posted By: BobMachus on 12/31/06 04:47pm

Hi there guys and gals,

I live in Northern Colorado and have been interested in a small RV for a while now. I was mostly interested in a Class B for parking, low profile, etc. I did, however, just the other get a 1975 Dodge Sportman (B300?) based 24' Esquire. At least I think it is an Esquire, that is what the PO said although I haven't found any info confirming that on the unit. Who knows how many owners this thing has had, but the guy I bought it from had only owned it for a few months. The owner before that had evidently worked pretty hard on some upgrades. I spent today ripping out the stinky carpet, curtains, etc. The door plaque says it is a Dodge F30 and the vin is F34CF5V024465 and I was told it has a 360. It does have a new manifold and edelbrock carb. I drove it up from Denver and might have hit 65 MPH on a downhill and was probably down to 25 or 30 on some of the longer hills. I suspect that a good tune up and carb tune might help the doggy "choked" feel.

This unit has a bathroom with shower, sink and electromagic 80 toilet in the rear, a couch along the driver side wall and the galley (with Frigiking wedgewood range and microwave) between the driver seat and the couch. The couch folds easily into a bed and back. Along the passenger side from the back forward in a Dometic Americana RM 2452 fridge and a dinette. Over the cab of course is a bed. There is a Generac xp, model #6208 5, 4000w surge/3000w continuous generator which works, but is hard to start in the cold (wouldn't start today although it cranked very, v e r y slowly). There is a Suburban forced air unit under the range which seems to work well (ANSI 1993 standard so no older than that) which has leaky ductwork but works great. There is a cranking battery under the hood and a deep cycle and cranking batt in the side battery compartment (the deep cycle is no connected to anything). I was contemplating replacing the coach batteries with t105's, not sure yet. There is an isolator under the hood.

There is a water pump between the furnace and water heater (don't know if this works) and a fresh water tank under a dinette seat. I have no idea if the water pump works, but the PO said the water systems work when attached to a hose. In the short term this will be used as an office for a construction project so we can keep warm and review plans etc. I would like to tune it up as the project progresses so that by summer I am confident taking it on a some trips (oceans, national parks....)

The awning systems seem intact, but who knows the condition of the fabric. The PO also bought all three batteries in the last few months in addition to new tires, brakes and the aforementioned carb and intake. PO also states that the rooftop AC (evans products) functions well.

I just hope that there is no freeze damage to the water system..... Anyone who can get me manuals or info on any of the components I would really appreciate it, I have looked a bit online, but without much success. How should I test the water heater and water pump? Should I wait until may when we are free from freeze danger? It will be parked at about 8000ft on the edge of a mountain during the construction project.

Thanks in advance, I have been reading here for a few months and you guys sure seems like a great bunch.

Bob


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 01/02/07 10:43am

so lets all get out and do some RV this spring, all of meet somewhere to have RV fun

jc from Ceres, CA


Posted By: Leeann on 01/02/07 10:58am

There are many manuals available online HERE.

You can get the Dodge Motorhome Chassis manual on eBay - this one's a repro, but there are others.


Posted By: philcnsen on 01/02/07 06:23pm

hello, owner of a 73 dodge executive motohome. i gutted the entire motorhome to the frame and am rebuilding as we speak. i have read every thread and wish to thank the moderator to keeping it going. lots of great information. i do wish there was a link here that all of us could put shopping places and rebuilding tips. i have taken the advise of some threads here and decided to install some rear air bags... sounds like a great idea. well, great site here and happy new year.


Posted By: Leeann on 01/02/07 06:37pm

Check out the rebuilding info at Wild Mopar Motorhomes.

'Griff's Project Number Two' is a '72 Executive. There are several threads on rebuilding old Dodge-based motorhomes, including complete tear-downs.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 01/03/07 10:58am

Well 75americanclipper, the mrs. and I couldn't wait til spring. The weather forecast for NW Pa. is for 1-3&4 to be in the low 50's. Last nite (1-2) about 10:30pm we fired up the old girl and headed for the woods. Had to come back for some jugs of water and pillows today, forgot them. Check out my camping photos and you will see that even snow does not slow us down.

Click for photos


Posted By: timmac on 01/07/07 04:30pm

Thinking of putting headers on my 79 Dodge RV, 440 mtr, class C, which headers are best and which ones should I use or should I stay with the stock cast iron exhaust, my right side cast iron exhaust has a crack so I do need to replace, just wondering if any body has good results or bad results with headers...


Posted By: rdcomputer on 01/13/07 08:17pm

Have a 1976 Pace Arrow with M300 chassis. Has anyone changed out the 8-17.5 wheels for something a bit newer, like a set of 16's?






Posted By: timmac on 01/31/07 08:54pm




Posted By: sheetszone on 02/05/07 11:59am

Brand new owner here of 1975 Dodge Tioga Sportsman 23' with a 318 engine. In very good shape for the most part. All original as much as I can tell 93K miles on it. Inside is nice, has the set up w/ the dinette in the back and windows all around. We were at the beach this weekend and it is a head turner

2 Ques:
New battery but doesn't work for power (lights, etc... on the inside) what might be the problem.

Wondering if it will tow a jeep wrangler?


---------
1975 Dodge Tigoa Sportsman


Posted By: Leeann on 02/05/07 12:04pm

Have you checked that you're using the 12v lights, etc? You should have both 12v and 110 fixtures - only the 12v stuff will work on battery.

Also, have you checked the converter to see if the fuse (or breaker) is popped on the battery side?

With a 318 I'd be a little leery of towing anything, let alone a Wrangler. We had a '75 El Dorado with a 360 briefly and decided that it could hardly get out of its own way going up hills, forget towing our (very light) raceboat trailer. We now have a '73 Concord with a 440 - it can tow ANYTHING.


Posted By: sheetszone on 02/06/07 01:27pm

i was afraid it might not tow it... well I guess I can tow it only on flat land..I think I'll get the hitch and see how it goes..I mean if it's just slow, no biggie


Posted By: Kendas on 02/06/07 08:16pm

Hello all... "new" owner of a 1978 Dodge Tioga class C along with being new to the forum. Not too sure of the exact length (somewhere between 18 and 23 feet) or chassis but it's got a 440 with a ThermoQuad in it that runs well.

House is in pretty good shape inside... All appliances (4 burner Magic Chef stove/oven, Duo-Therm Heater, Trav'ler Refrigerator) working (appliances are original). Aftermarket Coleman roof A/C (I've added the optional 120vac heating element).

Working Generac TXP45 generator (runs well after some troubleshooting and part replacement you can still find most parts for it... Ask me how I know).

I have got most of the original books on it (except the genset which I have a reprint of the T/S & Repair manual).

Still getting things done:

Big stuff: All three liquid tanks have minor leaks.

Little stuff: Fixing the wiring on the dealer installed cruise control and charging the dealer installed chassis A/C

Based on the information above and the pictures below can any one tell me which chassis it's on and the length (The generic Tioga manual is vague)

Thanks for any responses

Ken




* This post was last edited 02/06/07 08:54pm by Kendas *


1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures

USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.



Posted By: unionguy1019 on 02/07/07 09:30am

Hey Kendas hope this helps. Using the VIN look at the following.

1st and 2nd Digit Truck Model
M3=M300, M4=M375, R3=RM300, R4=RM350, R5=RM400

3rd Digit Body Type

4th Digit GVW Class

5th Digit Engine Displacement
A=440-3
G=318-3
N=413-1

6th Digit Model Year

7th Digit Assembly Plant
J=Windsor
S=Warren

Hope this helps. I recently purchased on ebay a complete factory issued dealer service manual for my 73. I believe I saw one covering your model at the time. Maybe try a search using "your year" dodge factory service manual.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 02/07/07 11:57am

Kendas wrote:

Based on the information above and the pictures below can any one tell me which chassis it's on and the length (The generic Tioga manual is vague)


Just looking at the picture it appears to be around 20 to 21 feet long. My 1977 Dodge class C is 23' long and has a larger bathroom. Use a measuring tape and that should give you the length.

Your VIN will give you information about the chassis.
As an example, here is my VIN and what it means:
F44CD7V063210
F4 Model number MB400
4 Body style MB4 Hi Line
C GVW > 10,000 lbs.
D Engine size 440-1
7 Year manufactured 1977
V Assembly plant Warren
063210 Sequence number starting with 000,001


Posted By: Kendas on 02/07/07 04:32pm

unionguy1019 and RobinHoodRV:

Thanks for your answers!

Of the two RobinhoodRVs is the closer...

VIN: F44CD8V704063

Using RobinHoodRV's info I come up with:

F4 MB400 (Chassis)
4 MB4 Hi Line
C >10,000 lbs
D 440-1 (Engine)
8 Year 1978
V Warren MI assembly plant
704063 Sequence number

Bumper to bumper it's 20ft 5in so knowing how advertisers work... We'll call it a 21ft RV.

Now to update the tagline.

So either one of you want to add anything?

Like I said... "I have most of the original books. I really need to scan them to the computer since after 25+ years they're a little fragile. This would also allow me to have them available to send to people who need copies.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 02/07/07 04:37pm

anything for an 1975 Dodge American Clipper with a 440 rear kitchen


what are they called, like D100, D200 or D300, which one is ours
JC from Ceres, CA
1975 Dodge RV American Clipper
440
rear kirchen
68K miles







Kendas wrote:

unionguy1019 and RobinHoodRV:

Thanks for your answers!

Of the two RobinhoodRVs is the closer...

VIN: F44CD8V704063

Using RobinHoodRV's info I come up with:

F4 MB400 (Chassis)
4 MB4 Hi Line
C >10,000 lbs
D 440-1 (Engine)
8 Year 1978
V Warren MI assembly plant
704063 Sequence number

Bumper to bumper it's 20ft 5in so knowing how advertisers work... We'll call it a 21ft RV.

Now to update the tagline.

So either one of you want to add anything?

Like I said... "I have most of the original books. I really need to scan them to the computer since after 25+ years they're a little fragile. This would also allow me to have them available to send to people who need copies.



Posted By: Kendas on 02/07/07 05:05pm

Using information on the VINs from the last couple of posts you should be able to decipher your VIN.

Ken


Posted By: clockwork oranjaboom on 02/08/07 10:54am

[quote=75Americanclipper]anything for an 1975 Dodge American Clipper with a 440 rear kitchen what are they called, like D100, D200 or D300, which one is ours JC from Ceres, CA 1975 Dodge RV American Clipper 440 rear kirchen 68K miles I belive they call it the F30 body also- found a site that had a scaned copy of a '73 B300 owner's manual that can be helpful. [url=http://www.nothingtodo.org/rv/rvfun.htm]http://www.nothingtodo.org/rv/rvfun.htm[/url]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: Kendas on 02/08/07 01:19pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

anything for an 1975 Dodge American Clipper with a 440 rear kitchen


what are they called, like D100, D200 or D300, which one is ours
JC from Ceres, CA
1975 Dodge RV American Clipper
440
rear kirchen
68K miles



Now that I know how the VIN works on 70s Dodges... Post the first 7 digits of the VIN and I think I can help (The one listed on the title please).

Ken


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 02/08/07 04:43pm

I think it is a D300


Posted By: Kendas on 02/08/07 10:35pm

Okay. No Such thing as a D300 in 1975 according to information I have available. Since you 'Apparently' don't want to enter your VIN we'll do it the hard way...

Below is a VIN definition from MyTravco.com for 1975 dodge chassis:

Sorry about the first 2 digits... The reply editor does not allow correct formatting without quite a bit of work.


1974-1977

Example: A11AA0J000001
A1 1 A A 0 J 000001
Model Code Body Style Gross Vehicle Wt Engine Code Model Year Assembly Plant Sequence Number



First and Second Digits: Model Code
Code Model


Code Model Code Model Code Model Code Model
AA PW100 Plymouth Trail Duster B2 B200 E1 AD100 Dodge Ramcharger L9 LS1000 R8 CNT800
A1 AW100 Dodge Ramcharger B3 B300 F3 MB300 M3 M300 (1975-6-7) R9 CNT900
BA PB100 Plymouth Voyager D6 D600 F4 MB400 P3 P300 S3 S300
BB PB200 Plymouth Voyager D7 D700 H9 DN1000 (CN950) R3 R300 (RM300) 1974 S6 S600
BC PB200 Plymouth Voyager D8 D800 J9 DNT1000 (CNT950) R4 R350 (RM300) 1974 S7 S700
B1 B100 EA PD100 Plymouth Trail Duster K8 DT800 R5 R400 (RM400) 1974 T8 Third Digit: Body Style
Code Description
0 Motor home chassis
1 Compact Van(Tradesman);Conv.Cab;LCF Cab;Std.H.D Tilt Cab;Long Conv.Cab.
2 Compact Low-Line Wagon(Sportsman);Crew Cab;Long Sleeper H.D Tilt Cab
3 Compact Mid-Line Wagon(Custom Sportsman);Conv.Cab w/Utiline
4 Conventional Cab with Sweptline box; Compact Hi Line Wagon(Royal Sportsman),MB3 High-Line
5 Crew Cab with Utiline box; Comapct Extended Maxivan(Tradesman)
6 Compact Low-Line Extended body Maxiwagon(Sportsman);Crew Cab with Sweptline box
7 Compact Mid-Line Extended Body Maxiwagon(Royal Sportsman,Flat Face Cowl, Club Cab & Sweptline
8 Compact Hi-Line Extended Body Maxiwagon(Royal Sportsman,Windshield Cowl
9 Forward Control&Motor Home Chassis, Incomplete chassis, CB300 Kary Van, Sport Utility
Fourth Digit: Gross Vehicle Weight
Code Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
A 6,000 lbs or less
B 6,001 lbs to 10,000 lbs
C 10,001 lbs to 14,000 lbs
D 14,001 lbs to 16,000 lbs
E 16,001 lbs to 19,000 lbs
F 19,001 lbs to 26,000 lbs
G 26,001 lbs to 33,000 lbs
H 33,001 lbs and up
X Non-certified Export
Fifth Digit: Engine Code
Code Engine


Code Engine Code Engine Code Engine Code Engine
A 440-3 H Cummins N-927 (1972) M 361-4 W Cummins
NTC 290 5 Cummins PT 270 (1975)
B 225-1 H Cummins
Super 250
(1973) P 413-2 X Special
6 Cyl Gas 6 Detroit 8V-71N
C 225-2 I Cummins
V8-555 Q Detroit 6-71N Z Special Diesel 7 Detroit 8V-71NT
D 440-1 J 400-1 R 413-3 2 Catapillar
175 (1975) 8 Cummins NH230
E LA 318-1 K 360-3 2 Bbl S Cummins
NTC 350 2 Cummins
NHC 250 (1974) 9 Perkins 6.354
F 360-2 Bbl L 361-3 T 360-4 2 Bbl 4 Cummins NTC 335
G LA 318-3 L Cummins
SHC 270 V Special
8 Cyl Gas 5 Cummins NTC 270 (1974)

Sixth Digit: Model Year
Code Model Year & Series
4 1974
5 1975
6 1976
7 1977

Seventh Digit: Assembly Plant
Code Assembly Plant
J Tecumseh Road Truck
K Pillette Road Truck
N Burt Road (Detroit) KDX
S Warren Truck #1
T Warren Truck #2
V Warren Truck Compact
X Missouri Truck
Eighth through Thirteenth Digits: Sequence Number
Sequence Year Assembly Location
000001 1974 Sequential number by plant
000001 1975 Sequential number by plant
000001 1976 Sequential by production year
000001 1977 Sequential by production year

* This post was edited 02/08/07 10:44pm by Kendas *


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 02/09/07 09:01am

I don't have my vin on me, sorry, but it a dodge Rv American Clipper, built in Gilroy, CA, they use the dodge frame to make these, back in the 70's


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/09/07 11:49am

Hello all, just found this forum. Me and my better half and our dog have been restoring a 1981 (1979 Dodge MB400 chassis with 440) Establishment 22 footer. We've done a lot so far and have more plans. I've read some of the posts here and see that we are like minded about our motorhomes being "classic" not "old". There's just something about them! I will post a pic when I figure it out.
I do have a question. Our rig seems to be geared very low. 60 mph has it really humming. I don't have a tach, but it's obviously turning a lot of rpms. Anybody have this problem? Any solutions without a ring and pinion swap?

Thanks


Posted By: Kendas on 02/09/07 12:30pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

I don't have my vin on me, sorry, but it a dodge Rv American Clipper, built in Gilroy, CA, they use the dodge frame to make these, back in the 70's



When you get VIN just use the info already provided and you should be able to get the correct model, engine, etc.

Let us know what you come with.

Ken


Posted By: timmac on 02/10/07 04:05pm

Has anyone here converted there old motorhome to run on E-85 fuel, I have converted mine to a full flex fuel RV, E-85 fuel is something we are going to see a lot of from here on out, your motor runs cleaner and better on E-85 [ethanol], if you are thinking about to change your carburetor RV to a full flex fuel RV I can help with the change, been running E-85 for over a year now in my 1979 Dodge 440 RV and it runs great, last emission test it burned so clean that it even meet the same standards of a mid 90"s motor, check my pic on profile and if you have any questions about the change just let me know...

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: DtommyD on 02/10/07 04:29pm

Hey RETRO
"60 mph has it really humming. I don't have a tach, but it's obviously turning a lot of rpms. Anybody have this problem? Any solutions without a ring and pinion swap?"
I have a '76 Dodge chassis ... (I'd look but its in storage) I think I have a 318 and yes, at 60-70mph its screaming. I wish I had overdrive but I don't. My fix is to not take the interstates. I just drive it within 100 miles so I'm not a long tripper.
Back roads my friend.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 02/10/07 11:11pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

anything for an 1975 Dodge American Clipper with a 440 rear kitchen

what are they called, like D100, D200 or D300, which one is ours

I believe that the D series was for Dodge pickups. The B series was vans. The MHs were either an MB series for a MH built on a cut-away van or the M series for the Class A MHs.

When looking for parts for your class c start with the MB model # first (usually MB300, MB350, or MB400) and if that model isn't available, then look for parts for a B300 series van. Remember, the rear of a van will usually not match what you have under your MH. The front should be identical except for possibly suspension components.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/12/07 05:07am

DtommyD,

Thanks, that's what I do most of the time and 100 miles or so is as far as I usually go, but if I could get the rev's down a bit I'd like to venture farther.

Btw, got the pic on my profile.Upgrades so far... painted the interior, new ceiling, new fabric, new foot operated (highly recommended) toliet, stainless wheel covers, new awning fabric, aux. electric fan, and more. Getting ready to freshen the 440...

Retro


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/13/07 09:16am

RPM toooo much ?? .. YOU Class C guyz are lucky.... with a 4.10 or so gear. Us Class A guys are dealing in most cases with a 4.56 or even in some cases a 4.88 gear !

My solution? .... in my 73 Class A ... I found a complete 3.73 geared axle assembly and will be putting that in to replace that 4.56. Anyone care to guess how many fewer rpms the engine will turn with that shorter gear in it(vs that 4.56) .... during a 6000 mile trip?

On the subject of EFI and a OD trans ...... lots of $$$$ for very little fuel econ. You can tweak carbs and intake manifolds and achieve better fuel econ for the $$$ spent.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/13/07 09:59am

Too many unknown variables. Give me rear tire diameter and current rpm at 60 mph and we can get close...

I have a buddy with a 79 class A. He can run 65 pretty comfortably. Drive train same as mine (440, torque flite, low a** gears ) I always figured the difference was the class A's taller tires. (19 or 19.5 wheels vs. 16.5 wheels) Mine will go 65, but it's ugly..


Posted By: Leeann on 02/13/07 10:15am

I've got a '73 Concord (see profile for pic) with a 440 and 8 x 17.5 wheels - and I drove it at 72 through PA comfortably (I haven't checked the gearing yet, but I'm pretty sure it's 4.56).

Are you sure you're getting into high gear (3rd)?


Posted By: Jer&Ger on 02/13/07 11:04pm

Hi Everyone. I've just downloaded all the manuals (except chassis) for my 1977 Dodge Brougham, 360 ci. here. I will scan the chassis manual and load it up as soon as I can get to it. Hope this will help someone out...Jerry


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/14/07 01:56am

Retro Cruiser wrote:

Too many unknown variables. Give me rear tire diameter and current rpm at 60 mph and we can get close...

I have a buddy with a 79 class A. He can run 65 pretty comfortably. Drive train same as mine (440, torque flite, low a** gears ) I always figured the difference was the class A's taller tires. (19 or 19.5 wheels vs. 16.5 wheels) Mine will go 65, but it's ugly..



There is not really a monsterous diff in the tire height/diameter/rollout between a 16 to a 19.5. The major diff there between those tires is the load carrying capacity.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/14/07 06:45am

Under normal acceleration it shifts into third around 35 mph. By the time I'm going 60 it's really turning (I have GOT to install a tach so I can give better info) Trans is not slipping or anything, just geared very low.
On the up side, I can surprise people leaving stoplights!


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/14/07 06:56am

You may be right Boondocker, I've never pulled a tape on the two to check the actual difference of tire height. That was just my initial thought.
I'll measure them both next time I see him. Interesting to see..

BTW Thanks to the forum for the Checking propane level with hot water trick.
Wife's coffee mug filled with water in the micro for 1 minute and I know excatly how much propane I have! Brilliant!!


Posted By: timmac on 02/14/07 07:26pm

MasterBoondocker said > EFI & OD trans, lots of $$$ little fuel econ, tweaking carb is better.........Fuel inject system is a better fuel management than a carb, carbs can vapor lock, poor performance in high altitudes, burns more dirty than a EFI, carbs are ok at the race track or for small motors like generators, lawn mowers, etc, but cars/trucks/rv's are better suited for EFI, will get better mpg and burns better and cleaner, motors have proven to last longer with EFI over carbs...


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/15/07 09:05am

Retro Cruiser wrote:

You may be right Boondocker, I've never pulled a tape on the two to check the actual difference of tire height. That was just my initial thought.
I'll measure them both next time I see him. Interesting to see..

BTW Thanks to the forum for the Checking propane level with hot water trick.
Wife's coffee mug filled with water in the micro for 1 minute and I know excatly how much propane I have! Brilliant!!


RC .... the way most tires are measured now is "rollout". They will give the revs per mile ... which IMO is a way way more accurate way of comparison.

RUN that propane "check" by me ! I am using a 100 lb cylinder to heat a section of my barn and I would like to keep track of the usage.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/15/07 09:13am

timmac wrote:

MasterBoondocker said > EFI & OD trans, lots of $$$ little fuel econ, tweaking carb is better.........Fuel inject system is a better fuel management than a carb, carbs can vapor lock, poor performance in high altitudes, burns more dirty than a EFI, carbs are ok at the race track or for small motors like generators, lawn mowers, etc, but cars/trucks/rv's are better suited for EFI, will get better mpg and burns better and cleaner, motors have proven to last longer with EFI over carbs...


Mac-ster ..... ah yes -- the direct port FI is bester in every way but the TB is not so.

I know that you have puffed the TB system for quite a while but the fuel mileage #'s that you come up with are not very impressive. As I said before ...I got nearly your claimed mpg on my Travco Espirit ... absolute ZERO tweaking and with a brake calipher hanging up.

But you butter your bread as you see fit. I will stick to my secret Edelbrock intake and the famous TQ carb.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/15/07 10:04am

Master Boondocker,

Propane trick:

Simply pour hot water ( I used a large coffee mug in the microwave for 1 minute)down the side of your tank. Where there is liquid propane it will absorb the heat and be cool to the touch. The empty space (vapor) will not absorb the heat and the tank will be warm.
I tried it the other day and was surprised that the level was easy to determine. Easy to feel the difference. With a larger tank you may need more water, but this worked great on the Cruiser.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/15/07 10:46am

Master Boondocker Wrote:
My solution? .... in my 73 Class A ... I found a complete 3.73 geared axle assembly and will be putting that in to replace that 4.56. Anyone care to guess how many fewer rpms the engine will turn with that shorter gear in it(vs that 4.56) .... during a 6000 mile trip?

I found a calculator online to check gear ratios. I guessed at a 33 inch tire diameter for your rig and assumed no overdrive trans.
4.56 ratio......2787rpms @ 60mph
3.73 ratio......2280 rpms @ 60mph.

So for the sake of simplicity I figured a steady 60 mph. for the 6000 miles. I come up with 16,722,000 revolutions per 6000 miles for the 4.56 ratio and 13,680,000 revolutions per 6000 miles for the 3.73. A difference of 3,042,000 revolutions or enough to go 22.2 hours at 60 mph, or 1332 miles, at 8 miles a gallon (I'm guessing) that's like getting 166.5 gallons of gas for free!
I need a nap...


Posted By: timmac on 02/15/07 08:37pm

Lower rpm's in a 10,000lb + gas rv is not always going to save you gas, might even be hard on motor, your best hp and torque is set at certain rpm's with wheel size, motor size, weight, ect, going to low in rpm's might kill your mpg's, and what about those mountains,, diesels can use low rpm's but gas needs to stay higher in heavy rv's....


Posted By: dodgespuller on 02/15/07 09:07pm

Hello guys,glad I found this forum. I'm the proud owner of a 77 dodge sportman.It has a rubber roof over the cab and is in very good shape.I bought it from an older gentlemen that just bought a brand new class A.He only asked for thousand dollars just to get rid-off it.Every thing works and in good shape since it is in covered parking lot next to his house. the only problem i am having is the fuel gauge.it is allways full even if the gas tank is nearly empty.I am trying to trouble shoot the problem and need your help.the red wire from the sending unit is not getting any juice.I can trace it all the way to the fire wall but don't know where it goes from there. Please help.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/16/07 05:41am

dodgespuller,

Best money you can spend is 15 bucks on a Haynes or Chilton's manual for Dodge full size vans of the same year as your motorhome. It will help with chassis related problems such as this.
If I remember right the sending unit acts like a variable resistor, adding resistance the higher the float is (more gas in tank) actually lowering the voltage back to the gauge.. If you are using a dc volt meter to determine the red wire has no "juice" the float mechanism or sending unit could be stuck in "full" position and little or no voltage would be correct. If you disconnect the red wire and your gauge goes to "E" that would prove the gauge works and your problem is in the sending unit/float.
Before you start though, I'd highly recommend getting a manual and reading up on it.

Retro


Posted By: IdahoJamboree on 02/16/07 05:36pm

Glad to see more people posting again. I have found good ideas and great help for my motor home here. I have a 21ft Jamboree with the 440. I had a broken exhaust manifold on the passenger side when I bought it and found the help here on the best way to get the stud removed and the manifold back on. I think the manifold is warped and I will have to replace it. I have a single exhaust and am thinking about duals. Anyone done this and have ideas and price? I may just go with a stock replacement to save money. This is great we can help each other. I can't afford a new motor home but I still want to keep mine in nice shape.


Posted By: jamilin on 02/17/07 09:08pm

Can I be here even though Ours is a 1978 Chevy Eldorado, not a Dodge, Like I previously stated? (BLOND, Sorry Truly am)

There just doesn't seem to be as many Chevy OLD owners on here. I figure there are some similarities, and I really hope I just didn't offend any of you!


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 02/17/07 09:51pm

jamilin wrote:

Can I be here even though Ours is a 1978 Chevy Eldorado, not a Dodge, Like I previously stated? (BLOND, Sorry Truly am)

There just doesn't seem to be as many Chevy OLD owners on here. I figure there are some similarities, and I really hope I just didn't offend any of you!


Well, Jamilin...

Since I started this thread what seems aeons ago... I hafta tellya-
I just don't subscribe to the haircolor IQ thing- and there needs to
be some further growth of our nation, so...

Welcome to our l'il fambly... yes, a Chevy 'midst all the Dodgers.
Yer one of our own.

I am expanding this thread to INCLUDE ALL makes of RV's. The criteria being the same as Dodge- let's say 1985 and earlier for the rig. Some manufacturers did use other make's chassis and incompletes for their rigs. I came across a late '70's Mobile Traveler rig that was on a Chevy incomplete van chassis, instead of a Dodge. I visited with the owner's son who generously shared with me his time (Thank you Ron!!)
and information about the rig. His dad gave it to him, and he still uses it! So, jump in, and participate. This thread is now officially for OLDER RV'S of any make chassis/incomplete van, and any class- A,
B,C,H,L,M,P,Q, or whatever. United we stand. Most of us have at our disposal the use of the five most powerful words in the world- to soundly humble even the most egotistical blowhard bragging about his "rolling castle" and how so much superior his rig is to ours...


"Mine's paid for. Is yours?"

Cost: low.
Value: priceless.

And now, my favorite three words- hopefully they will form the motto
of our motley crew, our little society...

"Smiles, everyone!! Smiles!!" - Ricardo Montalban as "Mr. Rourke" of the TV show "Fantasy Island"


Well, ewens iz now ofishul- git after it!

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight
Wheezing Bravely Onward!

* This post was edited 02/17/07 09:58pm by whiteknight001 *


Posted By: jamilin on 02/18/07 08:53am

Ok so the WhiteKnight has spoken!
Well when I got our Eldorado, it was in great interior condition, but as anything that is 30 years old, it was starting to really show wear. The color scheme was very on, with the orange shag carpet, and the Orange brillo pad seats.
The only expertise that I can offer this thread was the "Make it pretty for cheap" section.
Unfortunately, I think that is the easiest part, but here it goes. First I have to clarify that I come form the school of Redneck with "Style" school. What that basically means, is if you can get it for free, or near, you get creative, and make it work.

Once We ripped out the carpet, we were looking for a long wear, easy to do ourselves option, other than vinyl. The solution. Industrial carpet tiles! I have several family members that are in commercial construction, so if you know of some one, have them keep their eye open for some. IF you can't get them for free, check with any flooring store. I also have seen basements that they have done in a variety of different colors, (miss matched left over ones) that looked pretty cool, but I am not that bold. Color isn't as important as the shape that they are in. (I will cover my opinion on that later)
We found that because they are designed to be used with or without a glue, (we chose none) that they are WONDERFULLY easy to work with. Also, if you drop that piece of proverbial toast, you can pull out just that one square to replace it. The really don't move, and are great for clean up. We have dogs, a 3 year old, and my husband. Things get messy up in the hills. I love that when the jelly does fall face down, it isn't as difficult to clean up as shag or a traditional carpet. I also love that we could literally cut them as we went, and lay them in any time frame that we wanted. We opted not to pull out everything, We figured if it any seen, why bother. So, yes, under my sofas there is still the original orange shag carpet, I call it leaving a historical record, not laziness!

Now for the color part. The good news is that most of the salvage ones that you get are not that bad for color. I took the carpet as my pivot point, and found things that went with it. I didn't want a BLUE rv on the inside, (unfortunately in my area, blue would have no other color option than orange to accent with. It's a football thing
So I chose a heavy Dark green, and a floral that had green and shades of blue. Believe it or not, the floor, is not that obvious, and it really does look like it was planned.

The cab seats were AWFUL. Not looks, but comfort. We of course found some at a junk yard out of an old 80's van, hence a light blue, cleaned the heck out of them, (if you need help with that let me know) and they are SOOO comfortable. Oh yea, and they look really nice!
I know that this is probably pretty basic for some of you, no wiring schematics, no chassis, no ah, well anything else that I haven't learned yet, but if you have a dear wifee that is not loving the interior, know that they will support what they help create!


Posted By: donandmax on 02/18/07 09:35am

I have read alot about installing new headers on 360 and 440 engines and apparently there are lots of folks doing this. (along with dual exhausts) I have worked on engines on and off for a little over 50 yrs. And heres what I found. After putting big bucks into exhaust systems and headers the only thing I ever got was more noise. It never affected "more power" or "more gas mileage" You think you got more power because of more noise. As far as gas mileage goes it may look good on paper but in reality no improvement. The only thing that will improve mileage will be to get rid of the carb. and go with FI.
Headers yes if you go to different cam higher compression eng. etc. But just headers no way. It all has to go together at a very expensive proposition. And then where are the savings whats the difference if you spend money on gas or parts.
Just my 2 cents
Don M


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 02/18/07 01:56pm

jamilin wrote:

"Ok so the WhiteKnight has spoken!"

That's amazing! Y'mean that old hippy actually WOKE UP?!? lol I thought I felt the ground shake... wait a minit... that was the washer...spin cycle!

"Well when I got our Eldorado, it was in great interior condition, but as anything that is 30 years old, it was starting to really show wear. The color scheme was very on, with the orange shag carpet, and the Orange brillo pad seats."

Yep. Stepping through the door of the Kobay the first time, it was like
having an acid flashback while fully conscious and awake, with the song "In-a-Gadda-da-vida" by Iron Butterfly in the background- heavy, man!

"The only expertise that I can offer this thread was the "Make it pretty for cheap" section."

Mmmm hmmmm. I can dig that!


"Unfortunately, I think that is the easiest part, but here it goes. First I have to clarify that I come form the school of Redneck with "Style". What that basically means, is if you can get it for free, or near, you get creative, and make it work."

Dig part two!

"Once We ripped out the carpet, we were looking for a long wear, easy to do ourselves option, other than vinyl. The solution. Industrial carpet tiles! We have dogs, a 3 year old, and my husband. Things get messy up in the hills. I love that when the jelly does fall face down, it isn't as difficult to clean up as shag or a traditional carpet. I also love that we could literally cut them as we went, and lay them in any time frame that we wanted. We opted not to pull out everything, We figured if it any seen, why bother. So, yes, under my sofas there is still the original orange shag carpet, I call it leaving a historical record, not laziness!"

I didn't get sooo lucky- hadta do some floor repair. In the process, I got rid of all the burnt orange shag goodness. Bad enuf to have memories and flashbacks without seein what I use ta do!!

"I know that this is probably pretty basic for some of you, no wiring schematics, no chassis, no ah, well anything else that I haven't learned yet, but if you have a dear wifee that is not loving the interior, know that they will support what they help create!
"

Read this, guys. This is the "summum bonum" of it all. Get her involved. We can ALWAYS take care of the greasy side down, can't
we? Let them take care of the palatial interior! They're GOOD at that.
It may cost you getting her a sewing machine but lemee tellya bruther it's worth it! She's gonna be more supportive of the whole enchilada if you do, and who do you REALLY wanna go camping with?

Think of it all kinda like this: it's their playhouse too. Judy (my YF) thought I'd lost it when I brought the Kobayashi Maru home. But after a few days of feeling sorry for me, and seeing how ignorantly happy I was over something like this, she decided to survey the interior. When I suggested just leaving the interior as-is, she refused, and set to measuring. And cleaning. And sewing. Before I knew it her stuff got done before mine!!! Yep. Now she's telling me to hurry up and get 'er done!!

It's not just for deer hunting, guys!

Mark a.k.a. whiteknight001


Posted By: IdahoJamboree on 02/18/07 03:07pm

Don,

Thanks for the ideas on exhaust system. I agree, I think I will stay with stock setup. The P.O installed a newer tail pipe and muffler on it before I purchased it. I don't plan on pushing it past 60-65 mph and I think that helps more than a lot of things with keeping the heat down in the exhaust system and the mileage up. I am at the age where I want less noise, not more! It has 45,000 miles on it and seems to have had pretty good care.

In years past I have had campers and trailers so this is my first motor-home. We do not go far but we do like to go with the family and grand kids.

Norm


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 02/18/07 06:20pm

jamilin wrote:

Can I be here even though Ours is a 1978 Chevy Eldorado, not a Dodge, Like I previously stated?

Welcome aboard.

My first MH was built on a Chevy chassis. It was a 1977 23' Country Camper with a 400 small block. It was pretty gutless but it always got me where I was going.

I now have a 1978 23' Robinhood on a Dodge chassis with a 440 big block. Plenty of power and I get about one MPG more than the Chevy.

You're right about them being similar. In fact the layout of my Dodge is almost exactly the same as the Chevy. I think they even used the same orange carpeting and avocado materials. Of course the drivetrain and chassis info will be different.


Posted By: Chancellor on 02/18/07 06:38pm

Do I qualify 2006 Winnebago View on Dodge Sprinter Frame and cab? Mercedes Engine and drive train though....But it has the Dodge emblem and name on it. Thanks


Chancellor of The Klingon Empire
My Lovely wife{The boss}
and PJ our dog that thinks he's human!


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/18/07 07:25pm

I have bounced the idea of headers and am just going to stick with the iron manifolds and a SINGLE exhaust system . I should mention that this system WILL be custom made ...done with probably 2 1/2 pipe and using one free flowing "Turbo" muffler. And maybe even incorporating Thermasan "injection" !

Headers on a engine that rarely buzzes over 3000 rpm ? ... would not make a whole lot of sense in mosts applications...IMO.


Posted By: savatreatabvr on 02/18/07 09:39pm

I have an old RV horror story for you all. I bought a non-titled 1977 Dodge Pace Arrow with a 440 engine & 727 Torqueflite tranny from a friends boss here in Arizona. Without a title it's considered an abandon vehicle. The deal was I could keep it on his property until I had it road ready. First of all I live 30 miles from the property, gas alone traveling back and forth a couple of times a week in my truck was killing me. After spending over $2000 in parts, $800 in gas and 2 years hard labor I've gotten to test drive it a few times about 1/2 mile each time, but for some reason it won't shift into 3rd gear. That's just one of the many headache's I'm having, accually the biggest one is, remember my friends boss, well he now want's it off his property. I can't take it to a RV park, WalMart parking lot or even the side of a dimmly lit street because here in Arizona, only the owner of the property that the abandon vehicle sits on can apply for the abandon vehicle title. WalMart never returned my calls. LOL. So basically he sold me a vehicle that he was not legally able to sell me. I can accually lose all of the money and time that I've put into it and there's absolutely nothing I can do about it. All he has to do is apply for the title himself and it's his, I guess I could sue in court but all I have is a hand written bill of sale which dosen't mean much here in Arizona.


Posted By: timmac on 02/18/07 11:40pm

Thermasan Injection ???, why would you spend $$$ on a waste incinerator when you can put those $$$ into a Fuel Injection system and increase mpg, improve your emissions and your motor will love you for it...


Posted By: whiteknight001 on 02/19/07 12:14am

Chancellor wrote:

Do I qualify 2006 Winnebago View on Dodge Sprinter Frame and cab? Mercedes Engine and drive train though....But it has the Dodge emblem and name on it. Thanks


My most feared and excellent warrior compatriot, Honored Chancellor;
Leader of the True Sons of Kahless, welcome!! Would that the hand that
once guided my sword the Scythe of Stars to minister death to mine enemies enfold with yours and know the grasp of a kindred spirit, than this pitiful robotic shadow I extend to you now!!

Welcome to our quite unique group! In spite of the definition of our
vehicles as vintage or "older", we are probably some of the most interesting folk here in the forums. What I started as a "Hello... is
anyone out there" type thread has grown to what it is now... almost a
community unto itself, sharing wit and wisdom, fixes and information.
And a lot of humor.

Besides... I would not dare refuse so great a warrior! How many groups can actually say that they even know one such as you? or have the munificence of your patronage? The Sprinter class Bird of Prey carries the symbol of Dodge with honor and newness of form!! Its presence among the ranks of the time-tempered vessels of its kith and kin is
a thing of joy to those free of spirit and of wandering heart!

Again, my Chancellor, welcome!!

Mark, Lord Heronsgate,
the White Knight


Posted By: timmac on 02/19/07 12:27am

Savatreatabvr > if you have a hand written bill of sale from the owner of property that the rv is abandon on, well that's 9 tenths of the law that you are the owner, you just need to take the owner of property, vin number and picture to DMV and get new title in your name, and I have to say this why did you invest money and time into a rv that you don't even have a title for, you better hope the real title owner does not show back up and drive it away, get down to the DMV with the owner of property fast...[ better hope there is not a lean on it ]

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: donandmax on 02/19/07 08:19am

Norm, Your right the only thing any of us can do to improve gas mileage is to watch your speed. I don't care how new or old or length of your unit they are all gas hogs and this is why the rest of the world hates us. Its not what we have but how we waste precious oil for our "toys." I went to Europe and you rarely see a trailer or MH on the road, and if you do its usually a millionaire.Our good times on the road are coming to an end for all but the very rich. Thats why I bought an old MH in good shape. And paid cash for it. I don't want this hanging over my head with 20 yr finiancing when the big crunch comes. When gas reaches $5.00 per gal. (and it will) you wont be able to give these things away I'll turn mine into a tool shed I guess. But we still have a little time left and my wife and I will be taking an extended trip this summer. Be careful on the road a lot of our people hate us too.
Don M


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/19/07 08:21am

Great idea inviting all makes!

Just returned from first weekender with the Edelbrock carb (Part #1411) installed. Wow! Love the electric choke. It was in the 20's yesterday morning and it cranked right up. Ran so much better at all rpms. I have to adjust the linkage a litle, but that's minor. Thanks to this forum once again for a good idea. Hope I can return the favor.

Retro















Retro


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/19/07 11:24am

timmac wrote:

Thermasan Injection ???, why would you spend $$$ on a waste incinerator when you can put those $$$ into a Fuel Injection system and increase mpg, improve your emissions and your motor will love you for it...


Now as far as a TS ? ... I will put one of these together for probably less than a hun. That is not a good "investment" to you? .. you either don't take your rig out much, don't boondock at all OR you love paying 30-60$ per night to "camp".


Posted By: IdahoJamboree on 02/19/07 05:43pm

Don,

Sadly, I think you may be right on the way things are going. Mine may be the tool shed in while also. I have looked at an interesting trailer called an "A Liner". I cannot afford one now but maybe down the road a ways. They seem to offer guite a lot in a small folding hard side package and can be pulled with a six cyl. The person that just posted with the new Winnie View on the Sprinter frame has an interesting R.V. It is not anything I could buy but maybe it means there could still be a future out there.

Have you had problems with people giving you a bad time about your motorhome? From your post it sounds like either you have or know someone who has. I know many with new SUV's get a hassle. I did not think anyone would bother me in an old motorhome. Being able to travel with freedom is one of the things that makes this country great. We may just have to figure out a different way to do it as in some of the small R.V.'s I listed. Anyway you be safe out there and good luck.

Norm


Posted By: savatreatabvr on 02/19/07 07:41pm

Timmac, the main reason for buying it was, my girlfriend of 6 years left and I thought buying it would keep me busy plus driving across country has always been something I've wanted to do. But now who knows, hell the damn thing probebly wouldn't make it to the gas station anyways. Ahhh, it would make it, it would just take a while, LOL. Bob.


Posted By: Chancellor on 02/22/07 03:05pm

My most feared and excellent warrior compatriot, Honored Chancellor;
Leader of the True Sons of Kahless, welcome!! Would that the hand that
once guided my sword the Scythe of Stars to minister death to mine enemies enfold with yours and know the grasp of a kindred spirit, than this pitiful robotic shadow I extend to you now!!

Welcome to our quite unique group! In spite of the definition of our
vehicles as vintage or "older", we are probably some of the most interesting folk here in the forums. What I started as a "Hello... is
anyone out there" type thread has grown to what it is now... almost a
community unto itself, sharing wit and wisdom, fixes and information.
And a lot of humor.

Besides... I would not dare refuse so great a warrior! How many groups can actually say that they even know one such as you? or have the munificence of your patronage? The Sprinter class Bird of Prey carries the symbol of Dodge with honor and newness of form!! Its presence among the ranks of the time-tempered vessels of its kith and kin is
a thing of joy to those free of spirit and of wandering heart!

Again, my Chancellor, welcome!!

Mark, Lord Heronsgate,
the White Knight

qaleghnIS Warrior! I am Honored to be amoung some of the most Feared Warrior's on the road today! I will endeavour to uphold the tradition that those before me have set with Honor! My B.O.P. is named the MupwI' {Hammer} and I will be hitting the roads by the end of March for place far and wide! My handle is Chancellor {what else} and if you catch me we can share bloodwine, song and story about our adventures!

Chancellor Qu'noH


Posted By: Dannbo on 02/22/07 08:53pm

What??????????????????????


Posted By: Kendas on 02/22/07 11:22pm

Dannbo wrote:

What??????????????????????


Obviously he's not much of a ST fan Chancellor huh?.

I've had a nickname since 1973... Guess!


Long Life, Prosper.


Posted By: Chancellor on 02/22/07 11:41pm

I've had a nickname since 1973... Guess!

Long Life and prosper.... Spock's father Sarac of Valcan

You must have checked out my site I had a few roles with Paramount died by poison in one. But it seems they are retiring all the series now. Made some big mistakes with the last one. But I am happy with everything the way it worked out and we are thrilled to be getting out on the road. I can't wait for the season to start. In a few years we may go full time or at least 80% of it. Qa'pla Suv'wI Quv'lIjDaqyIH tu'be'lu'jaj {May your coordinates be free of tribbles}


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 02/23/07 07:51am

A little off topic, but did you trek fans catch the ST memorebilia auction at christies. 1701-A $220,000 1701-D $500,000 Klingon Bird of Prey $190,000. All the models from the series and movies. I was surprised that the TNG items bid higher than the original series stuff.

Okay now back to topic, just a suggestion for those that may need to replace water lines. Mine had old rubber tubing that was dry rotting with age. Replaced the lines with PEX braided water lines. Learned about it from maintenence technician classes I am taking. For more info on this water line click here.

Hey chancellor, I see by your address we are almost neighbors. I am about 80 miles south. Our snow is at about 20" on the ground and being laid off at the present time have given serious thought to "puttin the irons on the tires" and going camping.


Posted By: savatreatabvr on 02/23/07 09:34pm

I have a NEW problem! When I purchased my 1977 Dodge Pace Arrow moho it had a 650cfm Holley card on it. I could never get it working right so I bought another used Holley and of course, the same situation. I was a life long Holley man so I bought a total of 5 used Holley's (in 3 months) from friends and ebay with no satisfaction. I was eventually talked into buying a brand new 850cfm Edelbrock Performer. I was emotionally distraught, it was like forcing a Chevy man to buy a Ford. But I've seen the light, it was like a miracle cure. I can't say enough about the new Edelbrock. Holley WHO? Edelbrock for President! I slapped the new carb on and that 440 has never ran better. The only issue I have with the new carb is the kickdown linkage is now out of adjustment because the throttle lever is slightly different. Is there an Edelbrock attachment piece I can buy? Any suggestions?


Posted By: Chancellor on 02/23/07 10:11pm

Is there an Edelbrock attachment piece I can buy? Any suggestions? Yes go to the Edelbrock site and submit your question and they will tell you what part you need and the closest place to you to get it or you can buy it from the site and have it shipped.
Unionguy 1019... Yes I was heart broken over what some of that stuff went for."kicking myself" I should have saved more of my old stuff from Next Gen.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 02/23/07 10:14pm

savatreatabvr wrote:

The only issue I have with the new carb is the kickdown linkage is now out of adjustment because the throttle lever is slightly different. Is there an Edelbrock attachment piece I can buy?

I believe the Edelbrock kick-down adapter is Edelbrock part # EDL-8022. I found it available at summitracing.com and it was listed as Edelbrock Transmission Kick-Down Linkage. I would assume you could find this at any parts store that carries Edelbrock products.

I'm not sure you need it but they also had available the Edelbrock Throttle Lever Adapter, part # EDL-1481, for that carb.


Posted By: timmac on 02/24/07 07:36pm

Holley makes a good carb, your problem was buying used ones that shade tree mechanics messed up the carb and then sold off to some one else..certain auto parts should not be bought used unless the person selling it was a good mechanic....just my 2 cents....


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 02/25/07 03:33pm

Holley crabs ? ... no doubt the best race carb. Most if not all race cars use a Hooley but when it comes to part-throttle fuel and air mixing ... there are LOTS best-er carbs out there than that one.

... the best one ? ... the infamous ThermoQuad.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 02/26/07 11:35am

Having just installed my first Edelbrock, I must give them a nod. Really good right out of the box. I've bought new Holleys in the past and have had problems.
My ThermoQuad had already been replaced by p.o. when I bought my motorhome (see pic at profile)choke didn't work, ran bad. Edelbrock/with an electric choke has made it like a different vehicle. Very happy with that upgrade..
Just my 2 cents

Retro


Posted By: munkalido on 02/27/07 04:56pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Holley crabs ? ... no doubt the best race carb. Most if not all race cars use a Hooley but when it comes to part-throttle fuel and air mixing ... there are LOTS best-er carbs out there than that one.

... the best one ? ... the infamous ThermoQuad.


My stock T.Q. was warped and letting all kinds of air in. The thing would stumble all over itself off the line and never really ran very well. I heard this was a very common problem with T.Q. on motorhomes due to the heat. I took it off and replaced it with the Edlebrock stock replacement for a quadrajet (#1905) and it was expensive. It was also bigger (795 cfm) so while it has plenty of power, much more than before, it's also sucking more gas. I'm serously contemplating the Holley 670cfm 2D TBI that was mentioned in this post some time ago. This would also allow for use of flex-fuel (E85) that should have better availability in the future.


Posted By: sheetszone on 03/01/07 12:16pm

Ok, so just figured out w/ my VIN my motor 1975 Dodge Sportsman (Royal Sportsman accrding to vin) is the 360, not the 318 as previous owner told me. SHould I celebrate? Now can I toe my old jeep wrangler without worry??


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 03/01/07 01:35pm

sheetszone wrote:

Ok, so just figured out w/ my VIN my motor 1975 Dodge Sportsman (Royal Sportsman accrding to vin) is the 360, not the 318 as previous owner told me. SHould I celebrate? Now can I toe my old jeep wrangler without worry??

You should be able to. Probably a little slow going up some grades tho'!
Whoo-hooo!

* This post was edited 03/01/07 03:29pm by RobinHoodRV *


Posted By: sheetszone on 03/01/07 07:06pm

yeah will definitely take my time


Posted By: ram6trik on 03/09/07 11:03am

i just traded for a 73 executive,would like to restore or sell as is,plz contact me if interested,outside is near perfect,needs ceiling inside.Also have 73 chevy open road for sale,any questions will be answered.


Posted By: timmac on 03/11/07 10:10pm

Has anyone changed there gear ratio in there Dodge class a or c rv [440mtr] to 3.90 or 4.10, how did it run after change, does motor lug, still great power in hills, etc etc....

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 03/12/07 12:50am

[quote=timmac]Has anyone changed there gear ratio in there Dodge class a or c rv [440mtr] to 3.90 or 4.10, how did it run after change, does motor lug, still great power in hills, etc etc....[/quote] Is a 3.54 gear in yerr future ? ..... SOME of us with AEROdynamic motorhomes can pull a shorter gear and then HENCE get better fuel econ. OR could it be that weak-arse 440 of yurrs can not pull that barn-door Class C ? .... yous' gotsa' know that the 413 is BESTer ! ... :B

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


Posted By: timmac on 03/12/07 09:10am

3.54 ratio in a [gas] class a or c would be to low and will lug motor, work hard in mountains and hard on U joints, 3.90 or 4.10 should be the lowest one should go in a gas rv..

Masterboondocker> you have been talking about your rv rebuild and how many more years are we going to hear about your pipe dream 12-15 mpg on a gas [10,000lb] class a rv, carburetor, dated 72, when will it run, or will it ever, are you going to inject the waste from your black tank into carb to save fuel with your waste incinerator..

* This post was edited 03/12/07 09:44am by timmac *


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 03/12/07 11:12am

just change my coil and now I can cruise 65 again, wow .


so all filters, plus air, oil change and now I can hear it sound a lot better

jc


Posted By: DodgeLiberator on 03/19/07 08:12pm

I am purchasing a Dodge Liberator Chassis Motor Home with a 440 motor. I don't know anything about it but am excited to start fixing it up to use and then sell for the next adventure! Does anyone out there have any pictures? Please email them to staylo59@yahoo.com THANK YOU!


Posted By: Leeann on 03/19/07 09:17pm

Okay, could someone explain to me where my posts after 75AmericanClipper's disappeared to? And a couple of his, too?

I have no PMs explaining such a deletion - and I know I didn't do it.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 03/20/07 09:05am

hey what happen I see someone deleted my stuff and few more people too, what gives here
hey what happen I see someone deleted my stuff and few more people too, what gives here


jc



Leeann wrote:

Okay, could someone explain to me where my posts after 75AmericanClipper's disappeared to? And a couple of his, too?

I have no PMs explaining such a deletion - and I know I didn't do it.



Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 03/20/07 10:20am

why they do this and whywhy they do this and why

why they do this and whyI say why, there were no bad words or anything


Posted By: timmac on 03/20/07 08:29pm

Maybe you double post or you are just repeating yourself like you are now...


Posted By: Leeann on 03/20/07 09:06pm

No, we had a whole conversation about ballast resistors, voltage regulators, ignition control modules, etc. And it's gone. No repeating, no bad words, no flaming.


Posted By: timmac on 03/20/07 09:19pm

Oh maybe sent to tech forum, this forum is for Dodge RV'S...


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 03/21/07 12:31am

Leeann, I believe you posted in a different thread. I found your post that you made about ballast resistors, voltage regulators, and ignition control modules here:

Leeann's lost posts!


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 03/21/07 12:33am

You can always find any of your post by going to your profile and clicking on the "View Posts" link following the "No. of Posts:" line. This will list all of your posts!!!


Posted By: Leeann on 03/21/07 05:37am

Thanks, RobinHood - but as I've never actually visited the Good Sam versions of these forums (and didn't actually join there), I don't know how I posted there.....


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 03/21/07 08:54am

well, well this is the first time ever,



timmac wrote:

Maybe you double post or you are just repeating yourself like you are now...



Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 03/21/07 08:57am

nope it was here, I saw it we were here, not there.

man this is strange


RobinHoodRV wrote:

Leeann, I believe you posted in a different thread. I found your post that you made about ballast resistors, voltage regulators, and ignition control modules here:

Leeann's lost posts!



Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 03/21/07 10:47am

Leeann, Good Sam is just a portal to the Open Roads forums. There are several portals. I use Good Sam, Woodalls, or Motorhome Magazine but they are all the same. Since I was using the Good Sam portal when I posted it showed that link. The technique for finding your posts are still the same. Go to your profile and click on the 'View Post' link.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 03/21/07 10:51am

75Americanclipper, don't know what to tell you. All I know is that when Leeann and you stated you couldn't find it, I looked under Leeann's profile and checked his posts. There I found the posts in question under a different thread.

I'm not a moderator but maybe asking them would/could resolve the mystery.


Posted By: zyndyne on 03/22/07 08:07am

Hey all,
Just recently purchased a 19ft. 1975 Dodge Coachman with the 360ci. It has the original Kohler Generator K181Ep/ECMWS21, anyone have a manual for this generator, that I can get a copy of? Or a possible electrical schematic for the whole works? I am overhauling everything on this unit, to bring it up to par. Called Coachman, and was told they dont have anything going back that far. And have called Kohler, and they dont have anything on this Generator, other than its a 4KW Remote. The last owner/s have done some reengineering on some of the electrical systems, and some of it looks to be a fire hazard. Anyone with anything similar, your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 03/23/07 07:31am

zydyne, check coachmans website for a manual. They also told me over the phone that the manual was unavailable and I found a reprint on their site for my 73. Also check e-bay, I found a factory issued service manual on there. Also try a google search. may take some time but you may get lucky there also.


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/01/07 11:28pm

1979 Dodge Rockwood, 27'. Love my rv, and enjoy reading everyone's posts. I worked on mine a lot last summer, and plan on doing much more as soon as the weather permits. Many of my questions have already been answered, so I am excited to pull it out of storage. Anyone from the North Dakota area?


Posted By: duluthrver on 04/12/07 08:04pm

Hi All...newbie here, both to the forum and rving.

I have the opportunity to buy a 1977 Dodge Brougham Coach.

The asking price is $2,500. Is that too much?

The Rv seems in OK condition...Needs new tires all the way around...and I have no idea how much that will cost.

Your ideas/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 04/12/07 11:34pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

well, well this is the first time ever,



timmac wrote:

Maybe you double post or you are just repeating yourself like you are now...


LOL ...it would be a DELIGHT .... if macNutz would double-post ... with some info that was correct !


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/13/07 08:59am

so far my RV dodge 1975 American Clipper is on the road for some spring fun, so let go RVing, LOL


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/13/07 09:11am

I would go for it.




duluthrver wrote:

Hi All...newbie here, both to the forum and rving.

I have the opportunity to buy a 1977 Dodge Brougham Coach.

The asking price is $2,500. Is that too much?

The Rv seems in OK condition...Needs new tires all the way around...and I have no idea how much that will cost.

Your ideas/suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan



Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/13/07 11:33am

I am looking into getting an Air Conditioner and Generator this summer. I only end up using the dodge a few times a year, but I would like to be comfortable anywhere we end up. I was just going to see if anyone has had to do these up-grades and what combination works good. I have been researching the 'kipor vs. honda' posts for a few weeks and don't even know if either is right for me. Also, is there any way to run the A/C as we're rolling down the highway? Any advise would really help.


Posted By: Perrye on 04/14/07 09:37am

Dodge Distro

I have a 1976 Dodge Sportsman Four Winds Class C that I just bought.

I am learning about it now and may ask folks on this distro some stupid questions.

Thanks, Perry


Posted By: DeadeyeLefty on 04/14/07 02:44pm

This is what I'm starting with:
1977 (Dodge B300) 'Brittany' 23RB (rear bath I assume)class C. It's pretty standard I think: 360 2bbl,3spd auto, dash air, original 8 track! Layout is similar to this Lazy Daze floorplan
Made by a company called Wellington Manufacturing of 51477 Bittersweet Rd, Granger IN. Anybody know anything about this defunct company ?

I've started posting my progress on the rebuild here for anyone who's interested.


Project Glacier trailer build.


Posted By: cowboy450 on 04/15/07 08:12am

1976 Tioga, 360. I just bought this and am in the process of fixing it up. The fuel tank sending unit is bad if anyone can suggest a cheap one. Also have to replace the tires. The motor sounds fine so I am looking forward to my first trip in it.
I wanted to add that I found my sending unit at in case anyone else needs one: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?SiteID=213674. I am also single and looking for a copilot if there are any women out there.

* This post was edited 04/22/07 01:59pm by cowboy450 *


Country people may not polish their boots often but they don't polish anyone else's either.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/16/07 11:26am

1975 Dodge Sportsman American Clipper, that what my front end is, cool huh



Perrye wrote:

Dodge Distro

I have a 1976 Dodge Sportsman Four Winds Class C that I just bought.

I am learning about it now and may ask folks on this distro some stupid questions.

Thanks, Perry



Posted By: TerryC on 04/18/07 12:21am

I'm the proud owner of a 1979 MB400-based motorhome. It has 89K miles, a 440 V8 with 4bbl (rebuilt at 50K miles). Really good condition for its age. Only a few, minor trim fixes needed. It's a pretty good deal for $2000, I think.

I have a few questions for those familiar with these:

1) Is there a modern-day 440ci engine from which the fuel injection might be salvaged and installed on my 1978 unit? ...or is there another way to go to fuel-injected?

2) What other upgrades would help torque/power/economy? (Turbo, headers, cam, etc.)?

3) Are there aftermarket electronic ignition modules that last longer than the Mopar ones? (My parents had a 440 Dodge MH when I was growing up. The ignition modules died and left us on the side of the road more than once. Dad finally went to an older, points-type distributor to get some reliability.)

4) Any other information I should know about this chassis/engine for the road ahead?


Posted By: Leeann on 04/18/07 06:30am

1980 was the last year of the 440. You'd have to go aftermarket for the fuel injection.

Many claim that headers help with both heat and power, but I haven't any experience with them. As far as the cam, I'm happy with the original in mine, but if you do need a new one, make sure you look for the Motorhome cam.

One of the major issues with the Mopar electronic ignitions on these is the lack of sufficient ground. They are mounted on a metal plate towards the cab and that plate often is rusty (as are the screws used to mount them). Clean up that plate, use new screws, add a ground strap from one screw directly to the chassis if you'd like. Also, check your ballast resistor and voltage regulator - if they get weak, they pull the other 2 components down with them. The newer replacements are generally tougher than the original ones, too.

Just check all the rubber - fuel lines, brake lines, vacuum lines and all fluids. That motor and chassis were built for heavy-duty delivery truck use.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/18/07 09:02am

It is true, you get about 5 to 10 more horsepower, I have them on my 1965 comet cyclone.


(Many claim that headers help with both heat and power)


Posted By: timmac on 04/18/07 04:43pm

TerryC>>> Holley sells after market fuel injections and so edelbrok, mine is the Holley 670 CFM 2D Projection TBI, installs easy and is a great system for older RV's that has a carb, go to Holley.com and check out there systems, you will like how a fuel injection works over a carb, starts better, runs better, better MPG, stops all vapor lock problems if you have any, my stock electronic ignition has not been a problem just the old wiring does need to be upgraded and check for loose grounds.


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 04/19/07 06:43am

Just a note to check your 440. The 440-1 has different water chambers than the 440-3. If you do a motor job and just get the 440-1 head gaskets, these will block the cooling jackets around the cylinders. Also I have run into other gaskets that don't fit properly. Never realized that MOPAR made 2 styles of the 440, until I got my MH.

From my research, the 440-3 was originally built for the military, for use on water pumps. This motor is a high torque low RPM engine. Therfore being built for mostly stationary use additional water jackets were cast into the block.

As to the header issue, mine has Doug Thorley's feeding into a 4" exhaust. Power and heat are no issue since install. Actually mine now runs on the cold side.


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 04/19/07 08:06am

Is there an easy way to tell the 440-1 from the 440-3??


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/19/07 11:08am

In the Modesto Bee, the is a 440 and trans for sale and for like $200 bucks


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/19/07 12:05pm

When I bought my rv I had to drive it 900 miles to get it home, and the trans worked just fine for me. On my next adventure (100 miles round trip) the trans would not shift into 3rd on the way home. When I spoke with a transmission shop they said if I still have reverse (which I do) the trans is probably not bad there is something else going on. Any ideas?

I am also looking at getting an Air Conditioner for the old rig. It is 27' and I don't know if I should get a 13.5K or a 15K. I don't know anything about motor homes so any information on this subject would be appreciated.

I also want to get a generator to run the A/C unit for when I am not close to shore power. I do not want to get one that is directly bolted on, because I want to be able to use it in case of power outages up here in No.Dak. I want to buy a 'quiet' generator, but need it to power the new air conditioner. If anyone has a combination that works good for them, I would really like to know.

Last, is there a way to run the Air Conditioner while rolling down the highway? Not extremely important, but would be nice.

Thanks,
Brady


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 04/19/07 04:22pm

Does reverse come in slow ?


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/19/07 04:55pm

Nope. Reverse feels good.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 04/19/07 05:03pm

Is there any delay at all ?


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/19/07 07:37pm

I guess I'm not sure. I have only driven it twice since then and have been able to use reverse just fine. Do you think I should just take it in and have it rebuilt?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 04/19/07 10:02pm

From the time you get the selector in R ... how long does it take for it to go into gear?


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 04/20/07 12:22pm

2-3 seconds


Posted By: unionguy1019 on 04/22/07 07:14am

Retro Cruiser wrote:

Is there an easy way to tell the 440-1 from the 440-3??


Earlier pages on this site had info on using the VIN for identification. Other than that you can check the right side of the block. It should have the motor designation cast into the block.

Page 63

* This post was edited 04/22/07 07:20am by unionguy1019 *


Posted By: cowboy450 on 04/22/07 08:06am

Me too! Me too! 1976 Tioga with a 360. I have only had it two weeks and love it. I think someone needs to set up a website or maybe a seperate forum here to share info.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 04/22/07 01:20pm

nodakotaclassc wrote:

2-3 seconds


You probably have a rolled-over or broken rubber seal in the front clutch pack. Pull the trans pan and look what is in the bottom of the pan.


Posted By: DRTY_DAWG_77 on 04/22/07 03:25pm

new to this site. I own a 1978 scrambler on a dodge frame with a 440 big block in it. am having severe issues with it. i posted on here whats going on, its under 1978 scrambler in the search box. any help would be appreciated.


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 04/22/07 05:56pm

Quote:

Is there an easy way to tell the 440-1 from the 440-3?


As I recall, look at the harmonic balancer: the regular 440 is neutral-balanced. The 440-3 is externally-balanced, having the same heavy bottom-end parts as the 440 6-pack.


John and Elizabeth (Liz), with 3 nutty cats
My beloved St. Bernard, Marm, lost him 1/2/12
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 04/23/07 10:24am

Thanks...

Just in case anyone is planning tire replacement from 8.00 x 16.5 on a class C to the slightly larger 8.75 x 16.5. I did it a couple weeks ago and have been happy with the results... No clearance issues and the slighty taller height helped a little with my low geared rig.. I think this has already been on a thread here, but thought I'd share ;-)


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 04/23/07 11:36am

Is there some thing that would show if it is a big 440, I had to change my spark plus and and to take them back there were to small, like a 1/2 inch, now I have the right ones, that look longer like an inch

Jarlaxle wrote:

Quote:

Is there an easy way to tell the 440-1 from the 440-3?


As I recall, look at the harmonic balancer: the regular 440 is neutral-balanced. The 440-3 is externally-balanced, having the same heavy bottom-end parts as the 440 6-pack.



Posted By: Jarlaxle on 04/23/07 06:15pm

I seem to recall, the "peanut" plugs were used on the HD engines. You have a 440-3.


Posted By: timmac on 05/01/07 05:15pm

Looking to see if anyone out there has a Xplorer class C rv from the 70's, wanting to see how many are still in use today, don't see very much of these high quality fiberglass rv's any more, I just might have the only one in Vegas have never seen any at all here.


Posted By: Perrye on 05/02/07 01:55pm

What are the steps to light an RV Oven? Thank you, Perry


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 05/07/07 05:19am

Perry,
I can only speak for my 79 model,yours may be different. My oven has a "PILOT" setting on the knob. (Make sure all the other burners are in the "OFF" position by the way..) There is a pilot light inside the oven. Turn the gas on,knob in correct "pilot" position, light the pilot... pretty easy.
Again, yours may be totally different. It would be good to find a manual or directions and don't ever do anything with propane if you're not comfortable..


Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/08/07 06:59pm

We have a 1977 Dodge 360 Delta RV that we are planning on taking on a trip to move across the country from Washington state to Missouri. We are trying to check it out and see if there are any problems but we do not even have a manual and know very little about RV's.

Anyone have a check list of things we might want to check out??? We finally got the mircowave working, but am not sure what else works. Oh yeah the A/C works too.


Posted By: landrovercamping on 05/10/07 09:49pm

Although this is a Dodge forum,I would like to warn people of a serious promblem I encounterd with a 1989 ford vanguard class C.My wife &I were traveling down the road when a noise started. It sounded like metal hitting the pavement under the M.H. I stopped and discovered the propane tank had let go on the front.This was a very serious problem as the tank was full and started venting.Who knows where we might be had a spark ignited the vent.This tank is mounted under the water tank.The bolts were cairrage bolts,NO washers and bolted only threw the plywood. There had been a leak so the moisture was saoked into the carpet and foam underlay. We just purchased this unit and it has 39000Kilometers on it.As the water tank sweats,or the fresh water fill leaks or moisture from any source gets in there it does not have any air to dry it.The plastic was still under the tank.please pass this info on to anybody you know who has a vanguard,class C.Mine is the all fibreglass body style. Thanks Bruce


Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 05/11/07 06:31am

Wow! Very Scary....I will check my tank mounts before the next outing.
Thanks for the info..


Posted By: D&Sluv2fishandcampMN on 05/13/07 10:49am

I have a '76 dodge Jamboree class c. I owned this unit for a couple of years and then sold it to my sister. She didn't want it any more after about 2 years so I bought it back from her.

When I first owned it the brakes worked fine. Now when I got it back they are not there at all unless you really put a lot of force down on the pedal. I checked the brake fluid res. and it was very low. I added fluid but this did nothing.

How do I know if there is just a leak and now the brake lines need to be bled, or if it is the master cylinder that is bad? Is there any easy way to tell? If not what step would you take next?


Posted By: Big_John on 05/13/07 07:09pm

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:

I have a '76 dodge Jamboree class c. I owned this unit for a couple of years and then sold it to my sister. She didn't want it any more after about 2 years so I bought it back from her.

When I first owned it the brakes worked fine. Now when I got it back they are not there at all unless you really put a lot of force down on the pedal. I checked the brake fluid res. and it was very low. I added fluid but this did nothing.

How do I know if there is just a leak and now the brake lines need to be bled, or if it is the master cylinder that is bad? Is there any easy way to tell? If not what step would you take next?


If the brake pedal goes to the floor, then you have a problem with any of the following: brake lines, wheel cylinder(s), brake hoses, master cylinder or any combination of those.

If the brake pedal is hard, like you are saying, but does NOT push down, its most likely a problem with the brake booster. A couple simple things to check is to make sure your vacuum line to the booster is hooked up. The brake pedal will feel just like it does with the engine off, that is no boost and a hard to push pedal. If it is the booster, it will have to be replaced.

Master cylinder problems usually (but not always) show themselves by a brake pedal that sinks slowly to the floor as you hold your foot on the pedal.

Problems with the brake lines can be more drastic, the pedal will drop more rapidly to the floor.

If its a matter of the brakes needing bleeding, then pumping the pedal will generally make the brake pedal firm. If they need bleeding, then you need to find out why there is air in the system to start with.

Have someone with some knowledge of braking systems take a look. This is nothing to fool around with if you are not familar with them.

Hope this helps!


Posted By: timmac on 05/14/07 01:28pm

Has anyone replaced there oil pump on the 440 Dodge class c rv, do you have to lower trans to lift motor up high enough to get oil pan out or is there enough clearance without lowering trans..Need to know, my mech thinks trans have to be removed to get oil pan out...

* This post was edited 05/14/07 01:38pm by timmac *


Posted By: Noodleman on 05/14/07 02:23pm

O wn a 79 Delta. The only issue I've run into is overheating in teh California summer. Runs like a tank


Posted By: Big_John on 05/14/07 04:35pm

timmac wrote:

Has anyone replaced there oil pump on the 440 Dodge class c rv, do you have to lower trans to lift motor up high enough to get oil pan out or is there enough clearance without lowering trans..Need to know, my mech thinks trans have to be removed to get oil pan out...


The oil pump is externaly mounted on the 440's. You don't have to remove the pan.

Look at the part that your filter bolts to. That's the pump. Remove the filter and the bolts that hold it to the block. It will slide straight out about 3 inches so you need to be sure there is enough clearance to get it out and the new one in.

BTW, get a new mechanic.


Posted By: timmac on 05/14/07 07:52pm

Big_John>>> I am looking at Chiltons auto repair manual and it says for 361, 383, 413, 426W, 440 and 426 hemi to remove oil pan and filter assembly than remove oil pump from bottom side of engine...these exact words.....


Posted By: Big_John on 05/15/07 05:18am

timmac wrote:

Big_John>>> I am looking at Chiltons auto repair manual and it says for 361, 383, 413, 426W, 440 and 426 hemi to remove oil pan and filter assembly than remove oil pump from bottom side of engine...these exact words.....


Well, having seen errors like this in Chilton's before, I'm not suprised.

The small block Mopar, 318,340, 360 etc. has its oil pump located there, bolted to the last main cap. You would have to remove the oil pan to get at it in those engine.

The big block, 383, 400 413, 426, 440 etc. has its oil pump located on the driver's side front corner under the #1 cylinder.

I suggest looking in the Factory service manual.


Posted By: Leeann on 05/15/07 06:17am

Here's a picture of the oil filter mount/oil pump assembly, for reference:




Posted By: Retro Cruiser on 05/15/07 10:38am

My oil pump is as Big John says....external.

'79 440


Posted By: madtiger on 05/23/07 12:58pm

Greetings all,

My wife and I just bought a 1976 Dodge Sportsman (20') motor home with "Jamboree" written in faded lettering on the front and the back.

To let you guys know, I am quite the noob when it comes to motor homes. I have helped rebuild a few Dodge V8s in my time (a 360 and a 440), but nothing in a Van. In fact, The 20 minute drive home from where I bought the old girl almost doubled my lifetime experience in a moving motor home.

I bought it because my wife does NOT like to fly, and I like to travel. (she calls it "compromise" and I call it "capitulation", but that is a discussion for another forum)

Anyhoo, I have been looking for resources on where I can find such items as an owner's manual and shop manuals. I have found answers to the overwhelming majority of my questions in this thread, so for this, I extend a hearty "thank you".

I'm going to be spending the next few months doing the mechanical things that need to be done (I'll bet the last tune-up was when Clinton was President) and I'll probably be asking some silly questions. I'm going to purchase the "Dodge Full-sized van" shop manual (Hayes or Chilton's) on my way home from work today, I think that will help me with identifying the basics (what engine, etc.).

My first question is this: Do any of you RECOMMENDED any specific literature on RV restoration and upgrades (like how Home Depot has home improvement books)? Google and Yahoo! searches have brought up a few common books, but I figured I would ask lest I purchase the wrong one.

Thanks in advance,

-madtiger (the rookie)


Posted By: Leeann on 05/23/07 01:22pm

madtiger, I'd recommend the actual Dodge shop manual for your chassis, as that's going to be a lot more accurate than the Haynes or Chilton. They are still available on eBay - a lot.
manual on eBay as an example.

As for your motor, post your VIN # and we can decode it for you. If it's a small block (318 or 360), the distributor will be close to you if you're in the van looking out the front. It'll be at the front of the vehicle if it's a big block (413 or 440).


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/23/07 01:32pm

my 1975 Dodge American Clipper the distributor is in the back and it the 440-3 big block


Leeann wrote:

madtiger, I'd recommend the actual Dodge shop manual for your chassis, as that's going to be a lot more accurate than the Haynes or Chilton. They are still available on eBay - a lot.
manual on eBay as an example.

As for your motor, post your VIN # and we can decode it for you. If it's a small block (318 or 360), the distributor will be close to you if you're in the van looking out the front. It'll be at the front of the vehicle if it's a big block (413 or 440).



Posted By: Leeann on 05/23/07 01:41pm

On my 440-3, it's at the front. I have to lean far forward when I lift the doghouse to replace the cap, rotor or wires.

And in the '75 El Dorado on the B300 chassis, the distributor was at the back, right there when you pulled the doghouse - and that was a 360.

And that's what I was told was the easy way to determine big vs. small block in Chrysler products...


Posted By: Leeann on 05/23/07 01:43pm




Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/23/07 01:55pm

I think you have it I think you have it backwards, on the big block the dist was in the back or I could be wrong, i have a couple of books one them, I thought that how I read it, if I am wrong , sorry, but now I have to go home and check the book.

jc


Posted By: madtiger on 05/23/07 02:20pm

Holy smokes. I posted, went to lunch, and 5 replies! I read the remainder of this thread (been going on for three years? wow) and saw the posts on how to decode.

Leeann, thank you for the eBay link- I'll likely be buying that tonight.

I'm hoping to God that I have the 360- I really don't tow anything and the most I will haul is clothes, food, water and my wife and kid. That 360 might give me a little better mpg plus I would likely have more room under the doghouse to make any mods (manifold spacer, new air intake, etc.) that would give me a little squeeze of HP.

Thanks again!

-madtiger (the rookie)


Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/23/07 02:43pm

Hi Everyone,

I have been reading your comments on these Dodge van/RV's and I am lost as usual. My husband is a great mechanic and has always taken great care of all of our vehicles, and I am sure that he will be ok with this one.

What we really need is a handbook on what does what in the RV part of the motorhome. We have never had a motorhome and have never even been in one so when we came across this fantastic deal we jumped and now are the proud owners of a 1976 Dodge Van (nose) RV. We have found that the interior lights work, the microwave works and we can hear the water pump turn on. We have found the handles to dump the tanks and have the propane tank filled and the battery replaced in the rear of the RV (not the one under the hood). The fridge was taken out prior to us getting it and we are not sure about the generator that is located on the drivers side of the RV. The air conditioner also works.

Up in the front on the ceiling there are a set of 4 or 5 switches that we are not sure what they are for. Can anyone give us a hint as to what it may be???

We are planning on moving to Missouri from Washington state in a few weeks and we will be living in the RV until we get our house built. Since we are traveling across the country we were planning on renting a U Haul trailer to pull behind the RV. We have a 318 engine, at least that is what my husband thinks we have. Will the RV fair well hauling this on our trip?? Please any suggestions or hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Lummibeader

* This post was edited 05/23/07 02:57pm by Lummibeader *


Posted By: Leeann on 05/23/07 03:33pm

Hi, Lummibeader!

We need to know a bit more about your RV to help you, but many times the switches up there control things like the generator, water pump, lights, which gas tank is in use, etc....a photo might help, too.

What actual make is your motorhome? Dodge simply made the chassis. The 318 is the stock motor on many models/brands of RVs on the Dodge chassis.

What color is the generator? If it's green, it's an Onan. If it's tan, it's a Kohler.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/23/07 03:43pm

that is what I need is a generator for my american clipper.

jc


Leeann wrote:

Hi, Lummibeader!

We need to know a bit more about your RV to help you, but many times the switches up there control things like the generator, water pump, lights, which gas tank is in use, etc....a photo might help, too.

What actual make is your motorhome? Dodge simply made the chassis. The 318 is the stock motor on many models/brands of RVs on the Dodge chassis.

What color is the generator? If it's green, it's an Onan. If it's tan, it's a Kohler.



Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/23/07 05:41pm

Hi there and thank you for responding so quickly. I figured that you might need more information and read somewhere that someone can break down our VIN # F44CF7V03979

I will take a picture of the control panel but until then I will post the picture of the RV we have:



I hope it comes out so that you can see it

Lummibeader


Posted By: Leeann on 05/23/07 06:27pm

Bummer - says file is inaccessible.

VIN:

F4 = MB400 (chassis model)
4 = Sportsman
C = 10,001 to 14,000 lbs GVWR
F = 360 2 bbl (carb)
7 = 1977
V = Warren Truck Compact (plant chassis made)
03979 = sequence number


The link I sent you to is not necessarily for your year motorhome - it was just a sample.
This one is correct:
1977 Dodge Compact

* This post was edited 05/23/07 06:45pm by Leeann *


Posted By: Big_John on 05/23/07 08:41pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

I think you have it I think you have it backwards, on the big block the dist was in the back or I could be wrong, i have a couple of books one them, I thought that how I read it, if I am wrong , sorry, but now I have to go home and check the book.

jc


Big Block Mopar has the distributor in the front.... (along with the oil pump). Leann's picture shows a 440 with the distributor in the front.

If yours is in the back (and its a Mopar!), its a small block.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/25/07 09:03am

it's not the motor that it came with, I just found paper work that say rebuilt motor 2500, now I am on a mission to find out cause this block is really big, the dog house just fits under it, now I am on a mission


jc


Posted By: Big_John on 05/25/07 12:07pm

75Americanclipper wrote:

it's not the motor that it came with, I just found paper work that say rebuilt motor 2500, now I am on a mission to find out cause this block is really big, the dog house just fits under it , now I am on a mission


jc


Wow, you have some problems, first the distributor is in the wrong end and now the dog house is under the engine....

But seriously, post a picture of the engine and lets see if we can ID it for you.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/25/07 12:24pm

sorry I dog house just fix on top, sorry. I don't think it's a 1975 440, some one here at work says the big blocks, look at the Valve covers are they big or small, I said they are big and wide, he say well you have a big block, I know I have to go home and check the block for the number., so when I get home I will check this out, man this funas working on my comets, all 3 of them and the new one I got, it's a 1964 comet caliente, fun fun

Big_John wrote:

75Americanclipper wrote:

it's not the motor that it came with, I just found paper work that say rebuilt motor 2500, now I am on a mission to find out cause this block is really big, the dog house just fits under it , now I am on a mission


jc


Wow, you have some problems, first the distributor is in the wrong end and now the dog house is under the engine....

But seriously, post a picture of the engine and lets see if we can ID it for you.



Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/25/07 03:01pm

how do you post a picture here??? I tried and the picture never showed up
Any suggestions????

Lummibeader


Posted By: Leeann on 05/25/07 03:58pm

You have to upload the photo elsewhere, like photobucket.com. Then, using the Advanced Post Form, click on the icon at the top of the form that shows a pic (and if you hover over it, it says image or something like that). You'll paste in the complete URL of the image and click okay.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/25/07 04:09pm

she is a big help, thanks
jc


Leeann wrote:

You have to upload the photo elsewhere, like photobucket.com. Then, using the Advanced Post Form, click on the icon at the top of the form that shows a pic (and if you hover over it, it says image or something like that). You'll paste in the complete URL of the image and click okay.



Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/25/07 04:45pm

Here is a picture of our RV, even with the new door and the places that we have had to repair.



Does anyone else have an RV that looks like this one????

Lummibeader

* This post was last edited 05/25/07 06:51pm by Lummibeader *


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 05/25/07 04:56pm

that looks close to my american clipper, nice to see some old rv on the road.


jc



Lummibeader wrote:

Here is a picture of our RV, even with the new door and the places that we have had to repair.



Does anyone else have an RV that looks like this one????

Lummibeader



Posted By: Leeann on 05/25/07 07:56pm

Kinda looks like a Delta, maybe (the stripes and the angle of the cabover bed). We looked at a Delta near us but they wanted far too much $$.


Posted By: Lummibeader on 05/25/07 08:04pm

It is a delta??? a 1977


Posted By: mkpj1 on 06/07/07 04:35pm

hello all,

I'm looking to buy a 1976 sportsman (22 foot?) with what the owner states is a 318. It's in good shape and the price seemed good but when I tried to get the VIN he gave me "COLL22O454" which does not compute at all? He states this is on the door and on the title as the VIN? I do not have the liberty of looking at the vehicle myself so an ideas? Is this just the color scheme, gearing, and such and not the VIN?

Little help?

Thanks,
Ken


Posted By: Leeann on 06/07/07 07:21pm

It's definitely not the VIN. Sounds more like the coach manufacturer's serial number stuff.


Posted By: mkpj1 on 06/08/07 04:58am

Thanks,

Anybody have a picture and description of the VIN placard so I know what to look for in case this is some sort of frankenstein? Guy is adamant that this is what is on the placard for the VIN but this is obviously not a chassis VIN.

Any opinions if this is considered the VIN by the state? Should I walk?

Funny story. I bought an old 68 Evinrude and went to register it and noticed the registration tag said it was a 58. I researched the serial number and it was a 68. I told the registration lady and she said"Sir, the state of SC considers this a 58, any problems I should know about?? UH, No, No problems here, silly me it is a 58!!

It was okay as this was just a old boat motor but I'm not so sure I want to deal with DMV with an old MH.


Posted By: Leeann on 06/08/07 06:34am



That's a '73 VIN plate.


Posted By: mkpj1 on 06/08/07 06:45pm

thanks Leanne

He found it. F44CF6B104340. Gee, it was on the placard on the door jamb under the label that said VIN? Seems his daughter told him that was the body number?

She must have been the one who registered it with the serial number. As an old classic car buff VIN's are very important!

thanks for all the help!!

Ken


Posted By: mkpj1 on 06/12/07 09:15pm

The number I had was the build number from Shasta which built the coach on the frame. I went ahead a purchased the beast as it was in pretty good condition and the price was good. Everything seems to work including the Onan generator. Just been sitting for a long time and needs attention. I purchased with a clause that I would back out if we where unable to clear the title. So far it seems I will be able to. Title check came back clear and now I just need to associate the VIN to the coach serial number. I called Coachman who bought Shasta in 76 and they have been ery helpful. Sent me color brochure and all the specs including floor plans. I was amazed on what a couple calls did for info on such an old mobilehome.

thanks for all the help.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 06/30/07 07:11pm

Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric


She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!



Posted By: Big_John on 06/30/07 07:47pm

79powerwagon wrote:

Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric


Welcome!

Best source for service info is a factory service manual. You can usually get one on ebay for $25-$50. Don't bother with the generic Haynes type manuals.

So... if you're not sticking with the 360, what are you going to replace it with?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 06/30/07 09:31pm

79powerwagon wrote:

Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric


Welcome 9er ...... had enough of moparts ? ... ......

And I have joined-this-club also with a 1973 Dodge RV ...me-self !


Posted By: fourthclassC on 07/01/07 05:50am

I wish I had a photo... My last rig was a 73 Tioga. Excellent quality. I can give you alot of info.... Does yours have a grey water tank? Want to put wone in oppisite the black tank, so your rig will be fully self contained? I went through that little modification and it was a real improvement.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/01/07 06:03am

Do I have a grey water tank? Um, I assume so? If not, that means all teh waste water goes to the black water tank? Or the ground?

My Tioga is a little guy 20' I think? It has the rear entry door. The Mopar part of the truck I have no problems with servicing/repairing (the actual B300 chassis/cab), it's the operations of teh house part I'm trying to figure out. On your Tioga, cn you post a picture of your electrical panel for me to see if it's the same basic system as mine? My DOM is 03-1973... and something seems a bit ho-made about it...

Eric


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/01/07 06:07am

MasterBoondocker wrote:

79powerwagon wrote:

Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric


Welcome 9er ...... had enough of moparts ? ... ......

And I have joined-this-club also with a 1973 Dodge RV ...me-self !


Boondocker, who are you over at moparts? And what kind of Dodge do you have?

This is going to fun!


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/01/07 06:12am

Abd Big John, the 360 will either be built up to a proper spec, or more likely replaced with a big block. Since I had a built 360 in my Power Wagon, it had plenty of grunt to drag it's own weight many times over without breaking a sweat. It got 8mpg on a good day, and I expect nothing more form the RV. Other PW guys with 440's in teh same truck would get close 16mpg, so BB in the RV makes sence.

But for now, the little 2v 360 will remain. I might drag out the Summit Racing catalog and get a 4v Performer intake and carb, Summit cam kit, and timing chain, and install dual exhaust. A bit of fine tuning, and she'll perform MUCH better than stock, for not a bunch of money!


Posted By: fourthclassC on 07/01/07 07:21am

Hey,
That RV you could be our old one. Same rear entry, green, 360... If it has a solid state isolator and 100 amp alternator it probably is. What I mean about a grey water tank is, orginally the rig has only a tank for the toilet. (directly under it) The sinks and shower, just go out on the ground. OK in 73 now you can go to jail for it. (go figure?) any way I added a grey water tank and figured out how to vent it ... and make it work. Much more convienent then collecting grey water in a portable blue tank or some other method. Any way I do not think I have any photos but I will check.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/01/07 07:27am

Grey to the ground? I guess that's what the little tag on the wall by the kitchen sink says "put a pail under before using".

Hmmmm...... interesting!

This rig shows a 60 amp alternator on the production sticker under the hood. There is a big white ceramic unit that says Battery Isolator mounted to the firewall. Is that solid state? I don't know, I've never seen one before, but it looks like a big ballist resistor (being a Dodge guy, you know what that is).

Well, I'm off to play with it some more. I hope to have the fuel leak issue fixed today and try to sort out some of the electrical stuff.

I really appreciate all of your help!

Errr, you wouldn't happen to still have your manual to that rig, would you?

Eric


Posted By: hyp7 on 07/01/07 07:50am

Hello everyone. I'm a new owner of a dodge based class c and having trouble finding anything about it.The title states it is a 1981 cruise master,has sportsman on the doors and the guy said it had a 360 in it but the diagram under the hood only say 440. But I did notice the distributor is in the wrong spot to be a 440 so it must be a 360 I guess. It came with 3 manuals for the onan 2.8 gen but not one for the MH.haha. Does anyone have one I could download? It has a thermo quad 4bbl. and I was told they are junk. any ideas on what to replace it with? Was also told this era of MH are notorious for vapor locking which I think mine is doing now, goes great when driving but stop for a light and dies in the worst possible places at the worst possible time. Thanks to everyone on here you are more valubule then you know.
Thanks Gene


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/01/07 11:12am

hyp7 wrote:



It has a thermo quad 4bbl. and I was told they are junk. any ideas on what to replace it with?



WASH your mouth ... out-with-soap !

That carb has a few quirks ... but when dialed-in ... they are the best carbs out there.

79er ..... I will PM you with details.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/01/07 11:18am

Thermo Quads are great carbs, especially for this application. Do a Google search for Demon Sizzler (his name is David). Nobody on the planet knows more about them than he!

If anyone is interested, here's a link to the Moparts thread that has pictures of my rig.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3589731&an=0&page=2#Post3589731

Enjoy?


Posted By: Leeann on 07/01/07 01:07pm

Definitely wash it out with soap

We've got the thermoquad on our 440 dialed in - and it runs sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Only people who can't follow the rebuild/adjustment directions call them junk.


Posted By: Big_John on 07/01/07 01:54pm

My vote for the Thermoquad too. I've had them on a bunch of cars and never had any problem.


Posted By: timmac on 07/02/07 01:24am

No matter how well you get the TQ working it will still have vapor lock problems when it gets hot in late 70's vans and RV's, Put in a Holley TBI and your vapor locks will be gone for good and your fuel milage will increase... [ by the late 70's Mopar had to meet new epa smog laws and the TQ went thru changes and its quality went down ]

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Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/02/07 01:58am

Watch OUT you TQ fans ..... our Mopar fiend from Vegas has just gotten IN from a late-nite drinking binge !

The ONLY way that a TQ will suffer from vapor-lock is if the intake is getting toasted from massive amounts of exhaust manifold heat. The same heat would MELT a Holley carb. And even a Holley TBI system !

Leeann you have it RIGHT .... so you have actually MET our LV member ?? ... !


Posted By: Big_John on 07/02/07 01:56pm

Hyp7

Check your fuel pump. If you're vapor locking, there's a good chance the problem could be a weak pump.


Posted By: Kiki de los Feliz on 07/02/07 04:22pm

Hi folks - I am the proud new owner of a 79 Dodge "Big Sur" Class C (I think it has a 330 engine). Does anyone own/know about/heard of one of these? She runs really well, has super low miles (32k), and has a pretty immaculate interior, but as with any vintage vehicle, I'm sure there'll be issues. I'm trying to figure out the fan system in front, as there is hot air leaking in around the engine cover. BTW, she came with her original manuals, if anyone needs that info. Thanks! - Kiki


Posted By: Kiki de los Feliz on 07/02/07 04:49pm

"It got 8mpg on a good day, and I expect nothing more form the RV. Other PW guys with 440's in teh same truck would get close 16mpg, so BB in the RV makes sence."

I think my ole gal has the smaller engine - I was told that would get better mileage than a 440, but I am not very mechanically versed. Can someone explain to me the difference?

Gracias,

Kiki


Posted By: fourthclassC on 07/02/07 05:55pm

Not the same rig probably. But very similiar to my old one. Not saying this is your problem, but I had to change the fuel tank on mine. Very fine rust scale inside kept clogging filters.... I do not have any documentation, never did. I can tell you that almost all the stuff is replaceable, both rv stuff and truck stuff. Find a good auto parts person who won't laugh when you say 73... It was really much higher quality then my 94 Tioga in just about every way.


Posted By: timmac on 07/02/07 06:06pm

Kiki>>> 8 mpg is about all these old Dodge rv's can do with a carb, However Masterboondocker claims he know's how to get 12 -15 mpg with a 73 class A [413mtr] with a carb and no overdrive, only strange thing is he has not got it running yet,,,[maybe next year]..

* This post was edited 07/02/07 06:17pm by timmac *


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 07/02/07 06:16pm

I get good gas on my American Clipper, with a 440, on a good day I can go to Sac on 50 bucks on gas and 50 on the way back, less hills. I love it but now after drive 60 mph, it want to stop, so now I am lost, maybe if I put my new full pump, iut might stop that, man I hope

jc


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/02/07 06:22pm

Kiki de los Feliz wrote:

Hi folks - I am the proud new owner of a 79 Dodge "Big Sur" Class C (I think it has a 330 engine). Does anyone own/know about/heard of one of these? She runs really well, has super low miles (32k), and has a pretty immaculate interior, but as with any vintage vehicle, I'm sure there'll be issues. I'm trying to figure out the fan system in front, as there is hot air leaking in around the engine cover. BTW, she came with her original manuals, if anyone needs that info. Thanks! - Kiki


Kiki ..... our FIEND from Vegas has checked in ...YET he really did not address your Q's. He is still HARPING on that wimpy 440 of his.... with that stone-age TBI.

Your MH ? ... it more-than-likely has a 318 or 360 in it. What does it say on the under-hood diagram ?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/02/07 06:28pm

timmac wrote:

Kiki>>> 8 mpg is about all these old Dodge rv's can do with a carb, However Masterboondocker claims he know's how to get 12 -15 mpg with a 73 class A [413mtr] with a carb and no overdrive, only strange thing is he has not got it running yet,,,[maybe next year]..


But MACster .... my MH was designed in a wind-tunnel AND in doing so .... in a way-over-geared chassis ... loooow compression, truck cam PLUS a stone-age fuel delivery system....it still got in testing by several independent sources got OVER 10 mpg.

If I can NOT get another 3 to 5 mpg with legit UPgrades ..... compression, better gearing, high-tech cam and a better intake and carb ......

..... I will THEN buy a 20$ Holley TBI system from a swap meet !


Posted By: timmac on 07/02/07 06:41pm

Are those the same tests they do today and post on new autos but no one actually gets those mpg,,, in every day driving your rv wont exceed 8 mpg fully loaded,, [not in a wind tunnel test that's not real world driving] many rv's out there would get well above 10 mpg in a wind tunnel test or the so called flat road no stop and 55 mph test by EPA with no extra weight,, what we are talking about here is everyday driving with hills, stops, heat and loaded....

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Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/02/07 06:47pm

I was NOT there when they performed the tests BUT ......

if you think that "aero" does not play a larger part in fuel econ in any type of RV ....way way over and above the actual weight of the vehicle in most all driving conditions ......

Then I suggest you step-away from any and all of the hallucinations you are partaking in.


Posted By: 75Americanclipper on 07/02/07 07:00pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

I was NOT there when they performed the tests BUT ......

if you think that "aero" does not play a larger part in fuel econ in any type of RV ....way way over and above the actual weight of the vehicle in most all driving conditions ......

Then I suggest you step-away from any and all of the hallucinations you are partaking in.


hallucinations, were at, just kidding


Posted By: timmac on 07/02/07 07:16pm

So you don't really know how well it gets in fuel mileage if you were not there,, maybe they trumped up the mileage test to sell more rv,s....even folks that have bought the hybred autos are claiming that the FED mpg tests are way off,, [some are even 15 mpg off]..

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Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/04/07 04:57pm

I have a 1979 class C. 27' dodge 440.

I have been fixing it up for about a year now, and attempted to install a cd player in it today but ran into a problem. What I was trying to do was install a car/truck regular dash cd player above the sink in a cupboard. For power I tapped into a 12v light nearby. Well, I just keep blowing fuses. I have tried wiring to a different light, a different cd player, with the RV plugged in, with the RV running, and with the RV plugged in and running. No matter what I tried, the cd player's fuse would pop about 3 seconds after I plugged the wiring harness into it. I don't know where to go from here, any help/insight would be very helpful.

Brady


Posted By: Big_John on 07/04/07 06:30pm

nodakotaclassc wrote:

I have a 1979 class C. 27' dodge 440.

I have been fixing it up for about a year now, and attempted to install a cd player in it today but ran into a problem. What I was trying to do was install a car/truck regular dash cd player above the sink in a cupboard. For power I tapped into a 12v light nearby. Well, I just keep blowing fuses. I have tried wiring to a different light, a different cd player, with the RV plugged in, with the RV running, and with the RV plugged in and running. No matter what I tried, the cd player's fuse would pop about 3 seconds after I plugged the wiring harness into it. I don't know where to go from here, any help/insight would be very helpful.

Brady


Its not in the RV, its either in your wiring harness for your cd player or in the player itself. Double check ALL your wiring on the CD player, making sure you have every wire correct per the CD player manual.


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/04/07 10:43pm

I will double check everything again this weekend. The crazy part is, I tried two different cd players and two different wiring harnesses (brand and all). Also, the fuse dosen't just pop when you plug it all together, it delays about 3 seconds.

Thanks for the advise, I will take some extra time and care with it this weekend.

Brady


Posted By: Kiki de los Feliz on 07/05/07 11:08am

Hi folks - You are right, it's a 360. And the chassis is a Sportsman. We haven't really given it a fair mileage test yet, but will do so one weekend soon. Can't wait to get her out on the road! - Kiki


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/05/07 02:01pm

Kiki .... CHECK for a plugged heat crossover in the intake manifold. Most all 318 and 360's are "famous" for doing this. If it IS plugged .... it will negatively effect fuel econ ... big time.


Posted By: Kiki de los Feliz on 07/05/07 04:37pm

"CHECK for a plugged heat crossover in the intake manifold"

Thanks Boondocker. We will do so this weekend.

Actually, I have no idea what that means, but hopefully the boyfriend does, as he had a Dodge 440 for years. My department is measuring for blinds...


Posted By: jmangrum on 07/07/07 08:37am

check my signature ,jeff


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/09/07 05:12pm

Brady,

fuse is saving your CD player. Too many amps off that area you re wiring from. Get a Multimeter and see what you are drawing. also make sure you are using the right gauge wire to connect. The other option may be a poor ground. You also said something about being plugged in? Uh Oh? That could be a 30 amp line when plugged in. Be careful!

I would make a dedicated line to your chassis fuse box and get a hot line without needing a key-on situation. May have a free connection. Just use a multimeter to see if it has 12 volts with the key off.

Ken


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/10/07 05:54am

79powerwagon wrote:

Howdy all! I guess I can officially say I'm a member too of the mighty Mopar Madness club!

Just this week picked up a 1973, yes, you heard me right, 1973 Tioga class C unit with 75,000 miles on her!

What a piece of junk! She won't stay that way too long though!

Mighty stock 360 2v powered beast! This will change!

Yes, it's green! Yes, it's pretty simple compared to todays rigs. But she has a toilet/vanity/shower, full range, Dometic 3 way fridge, sleeps 6, and despite all the wood grain finishes in her, not a spec of real wood anywhere!

Anyone have ANY idea where to get info (service related) on this old girl? Some things about her just don't add up...

Eric


Just an update if anyone cares-

The past week or so I've learned ALOT about this rig! I do know for certain now that the 120v electrics work as they should. The 12v electrics in the house almost work as they should. The fresh water works as it should (but I haven't tested the h2o heater yet). The drains all work as they should. The furnace, range, and fridge work as they should. LP system upgraded to current standards.

All roof leaks have been repaired, and the mangled roof vents have been replaced. The rear entry door leaks a bit, I'll get that sorted out. Every running light has been replaced, and they all work! All the access doors have been repaired/replaced and keyed alike. The ripped fuel system is all nice and new now!

Stuff yet to do before this week-end- New tires, new tune-up, fresh fluids, rebuild that lousy 2v carb, R&R the brakes (just in case), new house battery and charger, new fresh water drain petcock, get her registered and insured... Hmmm, this all seemed to go alot faster when I was off 5 days for the holiday. This list is getting long, and time is getting short! Oh well, this is part of the fun of it!

Eric


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/10/07 05:08pm

Ken,

Thanks for the advise, I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up a multimeter. I haven't taken a look at the instructions, but do you know if when checking voltage do you test in parallel or series? I know one way is for voltage and the other is for amperage.

Brady


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/10/07 09:09pm

no problem Brady,

I just bought a 76 22 foot class C and I'm still learning myself. My lights run on both DC and AC shore power. So they have to be 12 volt lights. Converted somewhere. I'm thinking you have a voltage drop trying to come off the lights. They are probably wired in series so the voltage drop is increasing the amps across your fuse and blam. I'd check the voltage at the wire you are connecting to the radio and see what you get. I really am assuming that this light will run off your batteries so make sure it's not a 120v AC.

Yes, amps are tested in series. See how many amps your radio is running to get the power (watts) it needs to run. Probably exceeding the fuse rating and I would not put a bigger fuse in.

I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.

Let us know what you find out because thats a good idea.

Ken


Posted By: Leeann on 07/11/07 05:20am

mkpj1 wrote:

I would suggest putting in a dedicated line in somehow. I have a second battery, and if you do, you could get a little fuse box and put in a few 12V DC items or just run a line to the chassis fuse box. Some will have an empty slot.


That's what we did with our new stereo - ran a block from the coach battery under the dash and hooked up the accessories to that (with fuses). Much better than depending on the irregular and inadequate wiring from the factory and PO hacks.


Posted By: Big_John on 07/11/07 05:24am

nodakotaclassc wrote:

Ken,

Thanks for the advise, I stopped by the hardware store after work and picked up a multimeter. I haven't taken a look at the instructions, but do you know if when checking voltage do you test in parallel or series? I know one way is for voltage and the other is for amperage.

Brady


Voltage is checked with the probes placed in parallel and amperage (current) is checked with the probes in series. Just be sure that the current you are measuring is less then what your multimeter capable of or you'll blow the internal multmeter fuse.

Do a google search and you'll find a few tutorials of how to use your multimeter.


Posted By: nodakotaclassc on 07/12/07 03:58pm

I think my plan for this weekend is going to be to check and make sure my converter is grounded properly and everything 'looks ok.' Then I will check out that line with a multimeter. Last summer I replaced the walls and ceiling and noticed that the system that runs off of the converter uses a red-covered romex and the 115 lines are white-covered like in my house. Anyway, if I cannot come to any conclusions I will just run a fused line from the battery.

On a side note I am so happy I found this website. I bought my class c last year and really have just run into one problem after another (mainly because I had never been in or around an rv before). In February I stumbled upon rv.net and have enjoyed owning a rv much more ever since. I can spend hours just reading what everyone has to say, and solve some of my problems without even having to ask. Everyone on this site is so friendly it makes me feel like I belong to a club---a RV CLUB! Anyway, thanks for the help this past week. It makes me excited to go back out and work on it some more.

Brady


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/15/07 08:08pm

Anybody used any elstemeric or plasticote products for their roofs?

Any opinions?



ken
76 22 foot
360


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/16/07 05:16am

mkpj1 wrote:

Anybody used any elstemeric or plasticote products for their roofs?

Any opinions?



ken
76 22 foot
360


Ken, I've been using the Plasticote stuff for aluminim on mine. Strange material, but if you follow the directions, it SEEMS to work pretty well! I say "SEEMS" because it's still pretty fresh! I'm about to brush it to seal the screwed on gutter extrusions, possibly the top edges of the windows as well!

Eric


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/16/07 05:46am

Eric,

That's what i have been reading. the Plasti-cote is for borders and seams and the Elastamere is a roll on reflective "rubber-like?" covering for the whole roof. Maybe like those spray on bedliners for pick-ups? The reflective nature of it is supposed to reduce heat quite a bit?

Ken


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/16/07 08:35am

It is a rubber like material when cured, and can be rolled on. The refective quality? It's grey in color, so I doubt it'd have much affect on temps.

I paid $29.00 a gallon for it locally, and seems to go farther than the can says. They say to get it to about 1/8" thick and covers 50 sq.ft. I think I'm getting a tad better yeild.

The trick to using the stuff is to read the dircetions. This material is by far better than the other 34 years of******spackled on my roof!

Eric


Posted By: donandmax on 07/16/07 09:43am

Beware of old motorhomes with low mileage they have sat for a long long time and that aint good !


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/16/07 01:54pm

don&max,

Absolutely, i never walk into these "projects" with my eyes shut. doesn't sound like power wagon does either. I have also rebuilt various cars, boats, and other campers. Your point is very correct and funny. the guy I bought this MH from used the lower miles, 59000, as a selling point and became aggitated as I explained that is not a good thing. But....for 3 grand and being in great shape with everything working, straight body, new tires, brakes.....it was a no brainer. But....I can work on these babies no problem and actually enjoy it.

PW, the elastamere stuff is a coating separate from the plastacoat sealer. Supposed to be a three step process of using the sealant around seams, then strengthening with a mesh, re-sealing, then coating the whole roof with a roll on coating. I'm not sure if all that is going to be necessary. Looking into it though.

Did you ever decide to pull the intake and put on a performer and edle carb? i am definitely going with the tri-y's and 3 inch h-pipe for exhaust but am up in the air on the intake and cam? Figure it's already got a RV am in it? Timing gear is probably a no brainer on these? i'm also afraid the performer and edle carb won't fit under the dog house? I'm not sure the increase in horses will be worth the decrease in gas mileage. I want to pull a boat about 3000 pounds so the torque and horses are needed. HMMMM! What to do?

Ken


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/16/07 02:11pm

Hey Ken

I'm waiting to "borrow" another boat-anchor 2v carb from a friend just so I can run this thing and trouble shoot the engine. If it does in fact have issues, then I have a lead on a new engine cheap. But I'm not looking forward to lifting this tank up that high to pull the engine out!

So, if my little experiment works, and I find there is nothing wrong with the engine, I'll definately go the Performer route and a Summit cam kit (as well as new lifters, push rods, and chain set, might as well while I'm in there!). Not sure about exhaust yet other than 2.25" duals. I need to do more research on headers for vans... The trick to this rig is to get her working safely and properly first, than worry about the FUN stuff!

Eric


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/16/07 04:43pm

I hear you on the swapping engines. I thought of that while I was buying.

Keep me posted on the engine. I have a 22 foot at about 9000 pounds and probably a litle more loaded up. Bone stock with an exhaust leak and it does okay. a decent exhaust would be real good if I wasn't planning on towing which I probably shouldn't with this tranny. May put a cooler on? the 4 barrel 6 cfm edel I have in the garage would be perfect and I just need the intake. 80 bucks off ebay. that would probably give me what I need. I may do the chain to just because I've heard horror stories about the stock set up breaking. don't know if there is any truth to it. I don't know about the cam. The old RV cam that's in there is probably an iron beast. I'm going to leave mine as there have been too many soft cams going around these days. My rig only has 59000 so it will be okay.

Get that carb and let us know how she sounds. Got spark? Compression?

Ken


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/17/07 05:16am

Ken, the Summit Racing brand cam kits are actually made by Crane, and are top quality. Their timing gear sets are Cloyes. I've been using them since the mid 90's or so and never had any issue. And for well under $100.00 delivered, you just can't go wrong! The RV grind is a good one, especially for small blocks.

Small block Mopars EAT their timing chains for some reason. It's not uncommon to hear stories about only having 500 miles on a set and it's shot. That's why I go double roller right away. If someone would ever develope a cost effective gear drive set-up, that's be the hot ticket!

For exhaust, I've changed my mind and will not use headers. That's alot of heat coming through the dog house. A set of late model Magnum manifolds will work just fine (they breath a whole lot better than the original ones).

What's wrong with my engine? I don't know yet! It only runs at 3500 rpms, no matter what! Not only is it getting too much air through somewhere, but it's getting enough fuel to allow it to run like that! Probably a major vacuum leak combined with a sunk float or other defect in the lousey Holley carb. I can't do anything with the engine until I can get it to idle at about 850rpms. It just started doing this, I can't explain it. I've never encountered it before!

But, in true "Master-of-lost-causes" fashion, I'll figure it out!


Posted By: timmac on 07/17/07 05:32pm

How about a Holley TBI Fuel inject system verse the carb,, you wont have any of those old carb Blluuueeeesss....


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/18/07 04:54am

Nope, no fuel injection for me. Too expensive, no support. A simple Eddy Performer intake and AFB with a K&N will be just fine!


Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/18/07 08:11am

Well... add one more to the list of owners.

I finally found something that fit my "budget". I haven't taken possession yet, but am finishing a deal for a '79 Dodge 24' Holiday Rambler. While the DW isn't too keen on the age of the Unit, it was 1) in our non-existent budget, and 2) the only real way to get the desired floor plan.

I'll have many more questions coming to this thread in the future. lol.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/18/07 08:33am

Excellent, Eyeteeth! You're in good company! No twin I-beam front ends to go wacky for us!

Details! (and a pic?)


Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/19/07 08:51am

More details... pics if you want 'em... and plenty of questions forthcoming.

lol I promise... especially with the latter.


Posted By: Leeann on 07/19/07 09:08am

We always want pics - and details


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/19/07 10:07am

Leeann, that rig is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'll have to put a pic of the 73 Tioga in my profile...


Posted By: Leeann on 07/19/07 10:21am

Thanks, PW - we think so, too

That's as it was when we picked it up...

Here it is, 2 months ago:



Posted By: Leeann on 07/19/07 10:29am

2 more:






Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/19/07 12:23pm

That is really the kind of rig I was looking for, she sure is a sweety! The closest I got was 71 Winnibego but it wouldn't drive, too much work to make it work.

So I bought the C class instead, and I don't have any regrets (yet).

I guess I'll have to set up a photobucket account. The other BB's I'm on will let me post pics straight from my computer... Be back shortly!

OK, got one!


* This post was last edited 07/19/07 01:47pm by 79powerwagon *


Posted By: Leeann on 07/19/07 12:58pm

Yours is pretty cool, too!

We really like it - we actually bought a '75 El Dorado 19' Class C on the Sportsman chassis, but it had a 360 with CA lean burn******on it and it wouldn't have had enough power to tow our race trailer through the 'mountains' in Penna. So I found this one and couldn't resist.

Best part? Everything works. Everything...genny, furnace, water heater, AC, fridge, stove, oven, oven hood, bathroom stuff, power steering etc. After a little work on the carb, the 440 just purrrrrrrs (and growls!).

We had to do things like rewire everything (factory and PO hack jobs) and add circuit breakers, replace the shocks (which I highly recommend) and the tires, but I found 6 less than year-old tires already mounted on our 8-lug rims for the price of about 4 brand new ones (found them on craigslist). We've also added 2 gas tanks (also from craigslist) to our single 36-gallon tank: another 36-gallon underneath and a 27-gallon on the cargo carrier on the back. The 36 gal. is motor only, but the 27 is primarily generator and also motor backup for the longer trips. My favorite add-on is the rearview camera and 7.2" widescreen monitor - we can see the whole race trailer, behind it and lanes on both sides of it.

We got an awning from the same guy on craigslist, but we've got to chop it down as it's 2x the length we need and get new fabric for it (rotted out). I've also got plywood that looks like beadboard for the ceiling and click-lock laminate for the flooring, but we won't do either of those until we finish everything else.

And I still have less than $3k invested in it

Here's a pic of the monitor and add-on fuel gauges - and the switches we use to change tanks (they power the in-line electric fuel pumps).


* This post was edited 07/19/07 02:18pm by Leeann *


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/19/07 01:56pm

I had a nice long reply, but it all crashed losing it...

so here's my lovely interior, no shortage of fake wood and apple green!


* This post was edited 07/20/07 04:47am by 79powerwagon *


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/21/07 07:27am

Nice rigs guys,

Here is mine.





I like the camara set up.

Everything works in mine. Needs a solid tune up, shocks, to be sealed, Onan Genny needs tune up, complete exhaust, and a big screen TV

Ken


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/21/07 07:29am

No here it is.





Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/21/07 07:38am






Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/22/07 07:30am

Fourth times a charm? If this doesn't work you guys gota help me!

http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l143/mkpj1/shasta2.jpg


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/22/07 07:31am




Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/22/07 07:34am

Sorry but I had to figure this out. it's bad when you can build web sites but cannot figure out photobucket.




Posted By: Leeann on 07/22/07 05:05pm

No, it isn't - photobucket is harder

Nice rig, by the way.


Posted By: hotrod100 on 07/22/07 09:59pm

1981 Dodge with a 360. Not the nicest one around but it gets the job done and everything works!



Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/22/07 10:04pm

ANYONE convert a 440 ...... to use the 413 Industrial heads ?


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/23/07 05:02am

Nice rigs, guys! Looks like I have the junkiest one of the lot!

I did make a big improvement over the weekend- pulled out the lousy carpet, cleaned the subfloor, 2 coats of adhesion promoting primer, and all new vinyl flooring through out! Plus new throw rugs.

What a difference THAT made! Boy-howdy! The new dinette table gets made today! I wish I could find that apple green laminate...

MBD, what mods would one need to make to put 413 heads on a 440? Shouldn't they still bolt on, despite being B heads (vs RB heads)?

Eric


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/23/07 01:08pm

Thanks for the support Leeann, but...I'm still embarrassed, Good Grief!

Did that camara set up come as a package or did you piece it together? How much? That would be Flippin Sweeeeeet for dropping a boat in this orange mammoth of mine. My boat is a PITA if it's not at the right depth when loading....and my young prodigy is often more interested in the bikinis hanging around than helping me?? Wonder where he gets that?

No beauty contest here PW! I gotta neighbor that dropped $60,000.00 on one and has used it once in the last year. His taxes were over a grand this year? And....for all that money....what does he get to fix?? Nothing! He didn't get to pull carpet, lay sub-floor, or tile. No way brother, what fun is that with nothing to break and fix!

Just think... we keep them another 30 years your apple green and my fruit loop orange may be back in style?


Ken


Posted By: Leeann on 07/23/07 01:31pm

My carpet was the Rust/Orange/Yellowish shag - but some nice person bleached it so it's really, really pale orange. We will be replacing it with grey Berber. The rest of the floor was ugly, cheap, brick/stone patterned vinyl, which we will replace with click-lock wood laminate. My countertop/dinette table/backsplash are hideous speckled pink and we're stuck with that (at least for a while).

I bought the camera and receiver for $25 and the monitor for about $90, both on eBay. It's a 7.2" widescreen that normally is a flip-down. We removed the plastic stuff and mounted it upright instead (so we had to turn the camera upside-down). We've got the camera mounted on the roof behind the rear vent in an old security camera enclosure he found in a *cough* dumpster so it's waterproof (the camera is water-resistant, but we wanted a little extra security).

It's really sweet for driving down the road with the trailer - we can see behind the trailer and the lanes on both sides, so no more questions about whether or not it's safe to change lanes. We chose to mount it that way rather than aimed right down at the hitch or just past.


Posted By: Leeann on 07/23/07 01:35pm

Oh, forgot to say:

Nice rig, hotrod! It may not be the nicest one around, but it sure isn't the junkiest one, either.

And getting the job done is the important part


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/23/07 01:48pm

You know MK and Leeann, we need to meet up somewhere and get pictures off all these 70's relics in one place at one time! Just think of the colors!!!! Oh man, and a black light...

I'll get some pics tonight of the new floor.

I still haven't gotten the new intake and carb (along with a bunch of other van related parts) a fellow Moparts member harvested from a salvage yard near his house for me. We were to meet up Saturday, then Sunday, but nothing came of it. I'll just remain patient! I missed the Iola trip already, so now there's no real hurry.

MBD, if I recall, isn't your rig one of those "Saturday Morning Cartoon" looking pointy-nosed rigs, like a B on steroids? I'd LOVE to see pics of that!!!!!!!!! eer:

Eric


Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/23/07 01:50pm

Thought I would share this out... no names.. .and no reference to the dealership it came from, but my DW (who still isn't keen on the idea yet) sent someone we sorta know an e-mail asking for their opinion.

Every once in a while I receive requests much like yours. The best possible answer I can give, given the limited information, age, and type of coach this is, is that any value that this motor home has is strictly based on perception. The prices generally are what someone is willing to pay. Most of these older coaches are ready for the junk yard, but sometimes people keep them for unusual uses. Parts are generally hard or impossible to get sometimes and replacing components (such as a furnace or refrigerator) can be very expensive. Hopefully this is of some help.

I dunno... think they're trying to sell something?


Posted By: Leeann on 07/23/07 02:00pm

eyeteeth wrote:

think they're trying to sell something?


Yup.

My Dodge chassis is easier to get parts for than my '93 Toyota - I walk into my local parts supplier (NOT a chain store) and they ask what I need for the beast this time

If they don't actually have it on the shelf, they can have it there in a couple hours, tops.

Fridges/AC units/water heaters/stoves or whatever are available on eBay and Craigslist.

And brand new ones drop right into place should you go that route.

I kinda like working on mine...but that's me. Guess that's why we bought an old one...


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/23/07 02:19pm

Of course they're ready for the junk yard! That's why the person got rid of it! But then again, they may be like a friends older brother who traded in his cars for a new one when the tires needed replacing.

Someone willing to stick a bit of sweat equity and a few bucks can really have themselves a nice rig on the BIG CHEAP! I've been shopping for a cheap used Class C for sometime, and it looks as though even on eBay, none sell for much less than $2500.00, regardless of how unraodworthy they are! I'm stll at under a grand total (including purchase and 80miles of towing). I'll a few hundred in all new brakes (I was surprised how inexpensive the whole brake system is!), and all I'm left with tires (which I finally got a quote from the RV joint in Arkansas, cheapest you'll ever find, even with shipping to WI), so I'm darn near ready! And it won't be at $2500.00 either!!!!!!!!!!


Posted By: timmac on 07/23/07 09:03pm

Masterboondocker wrote :
ANYONE convert a 440 ...... to use the 413 Industrial heads ?

What will this do,, I have heard it might raise compression,, but will heads fit and will there be problems with blowing head gaskets..


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/23/07 09:10pm

79powerwagon wrote:



MBD, what mods would one need to make to put 413 heads on a 440? Shouldn't they still bolt on, despite being B heads (vs RB heads)?

Eric


9er .... you would need the heads, push rods, exhaust manifolds and the massive water pump and housing. I am NOT sure of the combustion chamber cc diff ...... I would like to know MORE about this swap.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/23/07 09:13pm

79powerwagon wrote:



MBD, if I recall, isn't your rig one of those "Saturday Morning Cartoon" looking pointy-nosed rigs, like a B on steroids? I'd LOVE to see pics of that!!!!!!!!! eer:

Eric


Saturday-Morning-Cartoon ??... !! ...... SEND me your email addy -- I will send you a pic that you could POST if you like.

It IS major DIFF from the regular MHs !


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/23/07 09:22pm

timmac wrote:

Masterboondocker wrote :
ANYONE convert a 440 ...... to use the 413 Industrial heads ?

What will this do,, I have heard it might raise compression,, but will heads fit and will there be problems with blowing head gaskets..


tm ..... I do believe that the comb chamber cc's are slightly smaller on the indust heads ... but not that much of a diff to make that HUGE of a compression diff. WHY would you think there might be gasket-issues? ... the steel-shim gaskets are GOOD for up to 13 to 1.

The indust heads are not near the max flow rate of the 440 heads - but this hi-flow is not needed at or near 3000 rpm.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/24/07 05:02am

OK, pics of the new floor, before and after. What a difference!

Before


After



Don't worry, the tags will come off the carpeting! And my table is built, just need to find the right finish for it.

Eric


Posted By: Leeann on 07/24/07 06:17am

Major difference is an understatement....that looks awesome!

You're pushing me to get off my butt and install the laminate I've got sitting in my dining room


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/24/07 10:14am

Can't hide money PW!

MB, why the change? I'm a Blue Oval guy when it comes to building engines and could tell you castings and years to look for depending on application in regards to big block, small block Ford. This is probably not the forum to ask that technical question? I have a buddy who is a machinist who bleeds Mopar blue (And he does bleed a lot) and he would probably know if you can't find a mopar site. I know that it would increase your compression, doubt it would blow head gaskets if done right. Issue would be going above 9.5 compression and eliminating pump gas. Detonation would kill an RV engine quick. Another question is if your lower end could tolerate it either? Do you need heads and have them laying around? I wouldn't see the need otherwise? Please explain.

Ken


Posted By: Big_John on 07/25/07 06:33pm

Chrysler did a lot of different stuff over the years, so I may be completely wrong but, IIRC the 413 heads have smaller valves. Of course that can be changed and you'll want to go to hardened valve seats anyway, so the job is already half done. The combustion chamber is most likely the closed chamber type like Chrysler used in '67 and before. It'll bring up the compression ratio a touch, but at the chamber design isn't the best for "breathing". Of course, then you have to use that big funky water pump that has the ports into the head too.



There might be some benefits from additional cooling in the heads, but IMHO, unless you're going to increase the valve size, I think it would make a bunch less power.

As to the question about the bottom end handling increased compression, the 440 is pretty strong. Take one apart and you'll see what I mean. Unless you're thinking about something really crazy, the bottom end will take about anything you can throw at it. Head gasket failure shouldn't be a problem either, as long as everything is flat before assembly. Myself, I don't use the steel shim gasket anymore and went to the far superior composition gaskets years ago.


Posted By: timmac on 07/25/07 11:36pm

Has anyone had there 440 heads shaved to increase compression, my heads are soon due for a rebuild, thinking of doing this while they are off and getting rebuilt,, does it increase compression much or is this just a waste of time and money..


Posted By: Morgan1984 on 07/26/07 12:01am

I got a 76 dodge coachmen statesman


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/26/07 12:40am

mkpj1 wrote:



MB, why the change? I'm a Blue Oval guy when it comes to building engines and could tell you castings and years to look for depending on application in regards to big block, small block Ford. This is probably not the forum to ask that technical question? I have a buddy who is a machinist who bleeds Mopar blue (And he does bleed a lot) and he would probably know if you can't find a mopar site. I know that it would increase your compression, doubt it would blow head gaskets if done right. Issue would be going above 9.5 compression and eliminating pump gas. Detonation would kill an RV engine quick. Another question is if your lower end could tolerate it either? Do you need heads and have them laying around? I wouldn't see the need otherwise? Please explain.

Ken


The change ? ... is for the better RV engine combo. And there would be NO WAY of going over 9.5 to 1 with these heads. And I now have a couple of heads etc laying-around and they will be going to a cyl head guy with a flow-bench for some severe testing. I plan on doing some epoxy-port-work if need be.

OFF to the other two posts about this. It is nearly 3 am here !


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/26/07 12:51am

Big_John wrote:

Chrysler did a lot of different stuff over the years, so I may be completely wrong but, IIRC the 413 heads have smaller valves. Of course that can be changed and you'll want to go to hardened valve seats anyway, so the job is already half done. The combustion chamber is most likely the closed chamber type like Chrysler used in '67 and before. It'll bring up the compression ratio a touch, but at the chamber design isn't the best for "breathing". Of course, then you have to use that big funky water pump that has the ports into the head too.

There might be some benefits from additional cooling in the heads, but IMHO, unless you're going to increase the valve size, I think it would make a bunch less power.

As to the question about the bottom end handling increased compression, the 440 is pretty strong. Take one apart and you'll see what I mean. Unless you're thinking about something really crazy, the bottom end will take about anything you can throw at it. Head gasket failure shouldn't be a problem either, as long as everything is flat before assembly. Myself, I don't use the steel shim gasket anymore and went to the far superior composition gaskets years ago.



The heads have MUCH smaller valves ..... 1.88 intake... 1.50 exhaust. But you don't need any more than that IF you are running a motor in an RV application like we do.(under 3,000 rpm for 99.99% of the time) The exh seats are REMOVEable and hardened. PLUS the exh valves are sodium filled. Plus PLUS the spark-plug is in an angled location towards the exh valve. The comb chamber is a "closed" design but it appears larger than a typical closed chamber head. I will be getting some cc numbers OF the chambers and the ports ASAP.

You NEVER have to use that funky-pump -- you can just block the head off .... but having all this extra coolant IN the head -- why not use a proven combo?

Head gasket ? ... I have always used a steel-shim. UNless I want to lower the compression ratio.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/26/07 12:55am

timmac wrote:

Has anyone had there 440 heads shaved to increase compression, my heads are soon due for a rebuild, thinking of doing this while they are off and getting rebuilt,, does it increase compression much or is this just a waste of time and money..


I would get a set of 516 heads(small chambers with 1.60 exh valves) and throw some seats and guides in them and cut-em 30-50 thou.

I do not have the formula in front of me ... but I would imagine you could see 1.25 points in ratio diff.


Posted By: Morgan1984 on 07/26/07 04:07am

Does anybody have any idea if a 76 dodge 440 with 70,000 miles is gonna make it from seattle to maine?


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/26/07 04:53am

Morgan1984 wrote:

Does anybody have any idea if a 76 dodge 440 with 70,000 miles is gonna make it from seattle to maine?


Welcome Morgan! As with any brand and with any size, how long an engine lasts is dependant on the care takers. If yours has been cared for, 70k is nothing for milage. If it's been taken care of like the one I just bought, 70k is about the end of the road for it.

Oil changes and keeping it cool go a LONG way to engine longevity.

If you want a quick look to see the health condition of your 440, simply remove the valve covers and have a peek at teh heads. If they're shiney and wet, and look like metal, that's good! If they look like they're full of asphault, that's NOT good (but expected, really). Put your covers back on (probably need new gaskets there anyway) and hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum. If the reading is pretty steady, you're in good shape! If the needle is wobbling around, you've got issues.

Will it make it cross-country? Probably, but if you just got the rig, it'd be wise to check it out. NEVER rely on what the previous owner told you...

Eric


Posted By: Morgan1984 on 07/26/07 01:18pm

thank you eric.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/26/07 01:36pm

fourthclassC wrote:

Hey,
That RV you could be our old one. Same rear entry, green, 360... If it has a solid state isolator and 100 amp alternator it probably is. What I mean about a grey water tank is, orginally the rig has only a tank for the toilet. (directly under it) The sinks and shower, just go out on the ground. OK in 73 now you can go to jail for it. (go figure?) any way I added a grey water tank and figured out how to vent it ... and make it work. Much more convienent then collecting grey water in a portable blue tank or some other method. Any way I do not think I have any photos but I will check.


Hey 4th, I tried sending you a PM, and you don't allow it... Can you provide me with more details about your grey tank conversion please?

Tahnks in advance!

Eric


Posted By: Big_John on 07/26/07 02:45pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Big_John wrote:

Chrysler did a lot of different stuff over the years, so I may be completely wrong but, IIRC the 413 heads have smaller valves. Of course that can be changed and you'll want to go to hardened valve seats anyway, so the job is already half done. The combustion chamber is most likely the closed chamber type like Chrysler used in '67 and before. It'll bring up the compression ratio a touch, but at the chamber design isn't the best for "breathing". Of course, then you have to use that big funky water pump that has the ports into the head too.

There might be some benefits from additional cooling in the heads, but IMHO, unless you're going to increase the valve size, I think it would make a bunch less power.

As to the question about the bottom end handling increased compression, the 440 is pretty strong. Take one apart and you'll see what I mean. Unless you're thinking about something really crazy, the bottom end will take about anything you can throw at it. Head gasket failure shouldn't be a problem either, as long as everything is flat before assembly. Myself, I don't use the steel shim gasket anymore and went to the far superior composition gaskets years ago.



The heads have MUCH smaller valves ..... 1.88 intake... 1.50 exhaust. But you don't need any more than that IF you are running a motor in an RV application like we do.(under 3,000 rpm for 99.99% of the time) The exh seats are REMOVEable and hardened. PLUS the exh valves are sodium filled. Plus PLUS the spark-plug is in an angled location towards the exh valve. The comb chamber is a "closed" design but it appears larger than a typical closed chamber head. I will be getting some cc numbers OF the chambers and the ports ASAP.

You NEVER have to use that funky-pump -- you can just block the head off .... but having all this extra coolant IN the head -- why not use a proven combo?

Head gasket ? ... I have always used a steel-shim. UNless I want to lower the compression ratio.


Yes, I guess you're right that you wouldn't have to use that pump, but I thought that was the idea.

Does the industrial engine have the removable valve seats? All the other big block Mopar heads I've ever seen don't have this.

I still think the valves are too small, even in the low RPM range, but that's only my opinion. It would be interesting to see how well they work in this application though.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/26/07 07:28pm

Big_John wrote:



Yes, I guess you're right that you wouldn't have to use that pump, but I thought that was the idea.

Does the industrial engine have the removable valve seats? All the other big block Mopar heads I've ever seen don't have this.

I still think the valves are too small, even in the low RPM range, but that's only my opinion. It would be interesting to see how well they work in this application though.


That massive pump is not required to use the heads ... but under heavy load -- it does prove it's worth.

Those valve seats ARE removeable - indeed. But in the many sets I have seen ... I have never seen a "smoked seat". Now on the 440 heads ... I have seen heads that have had the valve sunk almost .200. Are you also aware that the exh valves had rotators on them? ...

How well they work in "this" application ? .... the proof is in the pudding. Chrysler really did their home-work on these heads.

You question the valve size ? ..... at under 3k rpm? ....why?


Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/26/07 08:47pm

I'm curious... what have others been doing about replacing/updating propane tanks for the opd valve regulation on these older units? Can they use "standard" 20-30-40 lb tanks?


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/26/07 11:16pm

An OPD valve is not required on any permanently mounted RV tank that I am aware of.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/27/07 04:57am

eyeteeth wrote:

I'm curious... what have others been doing about replacing/updating propane tanks for the opd valve regulation on these older units? Can they use "standard" 20-30-40 lb tanks?


My truck came new with 2-20 lb tanks. I simply went to the RV place and bought 2 new hoses with the new style connector and BINGO! All done! The previous owner was even nice enough to "forget" that he the new tanks there (probably for a grill since they wouldn't work on the rig), so my only expence was for the 2 new lines!!!!


Posted By: Leeann on 07/27/07 08:42am

If you have an ASME tank (horizontally-mounted), you are exempt from the OPD requirement.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/27/07 12:31pm

79powerwagon wrote:

eyeteeth wrote:

I'm curious... what have others been doing about replacing/updating propane tanks for the opd valve regulation on these older units? Can they use "standard" 20-30-40 lb tanks?


My truck came new with 2-20 lb tanks. I simply went to the RV place and bought 2 new hoses with the new style connector and BINGO! All done! The previous owner was even nice enough to "forget" that he the new tanks there (probably for a grill since they wouldn't work on the rig), so my only expence was for the 2 new lines!!!!


So 9er ...what is the date on the tanks? New lines on the tanks do not make it a OPD.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/27/07 01:20pm

They're two years old. They are the new, correct 20lb portable LP tanks, and the lines in the truck are for those tanks. We're OK on this!


Posted By: Big_John on 07/27/07 01:48pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Big_John wrote:



Yes, I guess you're right that you wouldn't have to use that pump, but I thought that was the idea.

Does the industrial engine have the removable valve seats? All the other big block Mopar heads I've ever seen don't have this.

I still think the valves are too small, even in the low RPM range, but that's only my opinion. It would be interesting to see how well they work in this application though.


That massive pump is not required to use the heads ... but under heavy load -- it does prove it's worth.

Those valve seats ARE removeable - indeed. But in the many sets I have seen ... I have never seen a "smoked seat". Now on the 440 heads ... I have seen heads that have had the valve sunk almost .200. Are you also aware that the exh valves had rotators on them? ...

How well they work in "this" application ? .... the proof is in the pudding. Chrysler really did their home-work on these heads.

You question the valve size ? ..... at under 3k rpm? ....why?


In the industrial engine, yes, Chrysler did their homework and I'm sure the valve size is great for that application. A motorhome? I don't know. First you've got more cubic inches to feed. There's no getting around that. Then you're not running at a constant speed like you are with a stationary industrial engine. I think the small valve may narrow the power band. Under 3000 RPM may be fine for you, but for me, climbing steep hills and sometimes towing a car trailer, there are times were the RPM in my motorhome goes over 3000 RPM.

Honestly? It may work fine. Chrysler used the bigger valves in all the 440's they built though. They never saw the need to use a smaller valve.

Try it and report back. Its got me curious.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/27/07 01:54pm

Big John makes a good point. In the Power Wagon with 3.91 gears and the 3 speed 727, normal cruising was 25-3500 rpms. But at many times (freeway on ramps, crossing traffic, climbing hills, and general tom foolery) my engine ran near 6000 rpms. While the P Wagon is not as heavy as a MH, it was no light weight either, and I built the engine for it wanting most of the grunt down low, but still having some left when I needed it up high. I used small valves (stock size), small tube headers, 2.25" dual exhaust, dual plane intake, a real mild cam (214), small 600 cfm carb, etc. The combo was unstoppable!


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/27/07 09:43pm

Big_John wrote:

In the industrial engine, yes, Chrysler did their homework and I'm sure the valve size is great for that application. A motorhome? I don't know. First you've got more cubic inches to feed. There's no getting around that. Then you're not running at a constant speed like you are with a stationary industrial engine. I think the small valve may narrow the power band. Under 3000 RPM may be fine for you, but for me, climbing steep hills and sometimes towing a car trailer, there are times were the RPM in my motorhome goes over 3000 RPM.

Honestly? It may work fine. Chrysler used the bigger valves in all the 440's they built though. They never saw the need to use a smaller valve.

Try it and report back. Its got me curious.



First ... this motor was designed and put in way more MHs(and trucks) ....than "industrial" by far. Are you aware that there were TWO "industrial" motors ? ... the 413 and the 361.

In a MH application you ARE running a basic "one rpm" for most of the running time. For SURE it narrows the power band AND the max output ... but I would rather have a motor that will run it's best in the range of 800-4500 than one that will run up to 6k. But is this just me?

Those HEADS are the reason why Chrysler dropped the 413 combo. That total motor cost Chrysler 250$ more PER UNIT ...than the 440 that it replaced. The exh valves? ... were sodium filled. They cost almost 50$ each(at the dealer) ! .... the rotators cost a TON too. ALL those items add-up ...big-time.

Try what ? ..... the flow work ? .... my intent is to get the fuel/air mixture automized the BEST .... at and around 3k. If this means epoxing up the intake ports ...so be it.


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/28/07 11:46am

One major reason the 413 uses smaller valves is very basic: it has a smaller bore than the 440 (all RB's have the same stroke), and the larger ones simply do not fit easily. IIRC, most of the HD 413's & 440's (and most "dash-3" engines in general) are governed to under 4000RPM. There's no tach in my friend's class C (1974 B-300, 440-3), but the engine is certainly not a revver.

The best Mopar big-block heads are the later open-chamber ones, from the 1968-ish 906 to the last of the 400 & 440's in 1978. In fact, the later ones are BETTER, since they all have hardened exhaust seats for unleaded gas.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 02:14pm

Jarlaxle wrote:

One major reason the 413 uses smaller valves is very basic: it has a smaller bore than the 440 (all RB's have the same stroke), and the larger ones simply do not fit easily. IIRC, most of the HD 413's & 440's (and most "dash-3" engines in general) are governed to under 4000RPM. There's no tach in my friend's class C (1974 B-300, 440-3), but the engine is certainly not a revver.

The best Mopar big-block heads are the later open-chamber ones, from the 1968-ish 906 to the last of the 400 & 440's in 1978. In fact, the later ones are BETTER, since they all have hardened exhaust seats for unleaded gas.


Huh ??... !!

One style of the 413 had the LARGEST exhaust valves that were ever put in any B/RB-engine !!


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/28/07 03:35pm

And said valves were heavily shrouded. The bore is too small for good breathing...the 305 Chevy has the same problem. The 440 is a better choice.


Posted By: Jayne60 on 07/28/07 03:45pm

This is not my usual group, I do the pop ups these days, but my first introduction to rv'ing was in 1994 when my boyfriend and I took a trip to Lakeland Florida to stay with a friend in is Winnebago at a fish camp on the St. John's river.(Yeah, we saw alligaors too.) My first impression was very very bad. It was old, and cramped and had a musty smell, and how in the world would we sleep back there, and the bathroom was so tiny, but I kept a stiff upper lip because my boyfriend was on a quest to find a long lost relative. Within a short period of time I was totally hooked on the whole concept of Rv'ing and before we left Florida we bought a 1972 Dodge Cobra class c and drove it all the way from Tampa to north alabama. We had some wonderful trips in it until my boyfriend got too sick to wrench on it...yup, it qualified for an antique license plate...too bad our state didnt do them any more, but we still felt pretty lucky. I can close my eyes today and see every nook and cranny of our first RV, and get some really big tears in my eyes. My story is pretty special to me. The Rv finally had a bad carberator, and my boyfriend passed away from emphysema. Never would give up the cigarettes. Give me a few years and I will be telling a sad story about my current boyfriend. Gives one reason to not consider marriage at age 60 when you might not have too many years, but you will have all the bills. Oh well, sorry I went on and on, but the Dodge Cobra will always have a huge chunk of my heart. It finally flooded out when the creek jumped its banks. I cried the whole day they hauled it off. Hopefully, God willing, i will be able to pull a pop up for at long as I live.


Jayne and Ringo



Posted By: Jayne60 on 07/28/07 03:47pm

Morgan, scan thru my big ol post and you will see that your "baby" will do fine on your cross country trip. Good luck. Let me know how it goes.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 03:48pm

Shrouding ? ... not a whole lot better in a 440 with a 1.81 valve. THEN you put a 4.15 crank in it. Huh ?

And a 440 is a better choice ...... the whole motor, heads -- what ?


Posted By: Jayne60 on 07/28/07 03:57pm

79powerwagon This looks something like ours....the big front windown over the cab actually had the window curved. Made for some wicked leaks. No matter. I am still looking. I gotta find a picture of my first baby/


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/28/07 04:38pm

The 440 is a better choice, carb to oil pan. There is no case where I would prefer a 413.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 05:04pm

Jarlaxle wrote:

The 440 is a better choice, carb to oil pan. There is no case where I would prefer a 413.


And what about the 440 is better ? ..... for an RV application. I can only think of two things that some might think as "better".

EVERYTHING else ...... the block, heads, intake-heating, crank, rods, cooling-system, pistons - etc ..... is far FAR better.

And I see you did not comment on the additional shrouding "issues". GOOD move.


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/28/07 10:01pm

What is better? Let me count the ways...

More torque (displacement is torque).
Parts actually, you know, AVAILABLE. (Nobody makes 413 pistons anymore.)
Better heads.
Most had a ThermoQuad from the factory, saving the trouble of changing over.

Crank is a wash, unless it's a 440-3, which uses the 6-pack crank & rods. A 440 block (any 440 block, from the 60's to 1978) is plenty strong for any street engine. Give me a 440 over a 413, every application, every time, no exceptions. Heck, I'd rather have a 400 than a 413.

And yes, shrouding (or clearance, on some aftermarket heads) IS a factor with big-valve heads on a 413's smaller bore. The best thing about a 413 is you can sell it on eBay and bolt in a 440 with no other modifications. There is no Earthly reason to use a smaller-displacement engine with identical packaging.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 10:32pm

Jarlaxle wrote:

What is better? Let me count the ways...

More torque (displacement is torque).
Parts actually, you know, AVAILABLE. (Nobody makes 413 pistons anymore.)
Better heads.
Most had a ThermoQuad from the factory, saving the trouble of changing over.

Crank is a wash, unless it's a 440-3, which uses the 6-pack crank & rods. A 440 block (any 440 block, from the 60's to 1978) is plenty strong for any street engine. Give me a 440 over a 413, every application, every time, no exceptions. Heck, I'd rather have a 400 than a 413.

And yes, shrouding (or clearance, on some aftermarket heads) IS a factor with big-valve heads on a 413's smaller bore. The best thing about a 413 is you can sell it on eBay and bolt in a 440 with no other modifications. There is no Earthly reason to use a smaller-displacement engine with identical packaging.


You are WRONG ...in so many ways. And WHERE in the heck do you get your info ? .....

No pistons ? .... there are many sets of NEW pistons available.

Better heads ? .. the 413 ? --- YES. They are MUCH better heads for the RV application. ...... better cooling capacity, valve size and quality, seats, angled plugs, valve rotators - ETC. The 440 head does not hold a candle to it... PERIOD.

The TQ carb ... it is a bolt-on deal.

The normal 440 block ? ... is in no way comparable to a 413. The 413 is a TRUCK block -- compared to a 440 "car" block ? ....what have you been smokin' ? You would rather have a 400(that are famous for thin-wall-blocks) to a 413 ? ...THIS just SHOWS how much you know about Mopars.

And you can just BOLT-IN a 440 ? ... in a 413 RV application ?? .... WrongO again Ford guy !

STICK with your Ford school-bus .... we are talking Mopars here.


Posted By: timmac on 07/28/07 10:37pm

Oh my stars the 440-413 wars again... however my fuel inject 440 beats all..


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 10:57pm

BS injected ...maybe !

Your blow-by special with worn-out-heads needs some severe Rx.


Posted By: timmac on 07/28/07 11:04pm

BS injected?? I thought that was your TS and TQ system that does that........No my heads are not wore out when I posted earlier that it might need a head rebuild soon,, it just burns thru a quart of oil every 750-850 miles and thinking of a head rebuild might slow this down,, however it runs smooth and strong and will run circles around your 413....


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 11:08pm

Again I say ..... Your blow-by special with worn-out-heads needs some severe Rx.

Your oil-burner needs help badly. My worn-out 2.5 in my Caravan gets 2500 miles per quart !

Run circles ? .... PUT your money where your MOUTH is !


Posted By: timmac on 07/28/07 11:15pm

NAH that would be like taking candy from a kid betting with your 413,, you will have better luck racing with a ford escort..


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/28/07 11:20pm

WhatEVER happened to the Vegas BigShooters ? ....... going home to Mama ?

he-he-he ....... so your Ford Escort is faster than that 440 of yours?


Posted By: timmac on 07/29/07 12:04am

So why did Mopar bag the 413,,, and the 440 is a better truck/rv motor..


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/29/07 12:28am

timmac wrote:

So why did Mopar bag the 413,,, and the 440 is a better truck/rv motor..


WHY do you avoid the Q's at hand ?

But I will answer YOUR Q..... the 440 was a way CHEAPER motor to build ....by a bunch.

And in NO WAY is the 440 a better RV/truck motor.


Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/29/07 08:27am

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Jarlaxle wrote:

What is better? Let me count the ways...

More torque (displacement is torque).
Parts actually, you know, AVAILABLE. (Nobody makes 413 pistons anymore.)
Better heads.
Most had a ThermoQuad from the factory, saving the trouble of changing over.

Crank is a wash, unless it's a 440-3, which uses the 6-pack crank & rods. A 440 block (any 440 block, from the 60's to 1978) is plenty strong for any street engine. Give me a 440 over a 413, every application, every time, no exceptions. Heck, I'd rather have a 400 than a 413.

And yes, shrouding (or clearance, on some aftermarket heads) IS a factor with big-valve heads on a 413's smaller bore. The best thing about a 413 is you can sell it on eBay and bolt in a 440 with no other modifications. There is no Earthly reason to use a smaller-displacement engine with identical packaging.


You are WRONG ...in so many ways. And WHERE in the heck do you get your info ? .....

No pistons ? .... there are many sets of NEW pistons available.

Better heads ? .. the 413 ? --- YES. They are MUCH better heads for the RV application. ...... better cooling capacity, valve size and quality, seats, angled plugs, valve rotators - ETC. The 440 head does not hold a candle to it... PERIOD.

The TQ carb ... it is a bolt-on deal.

The normal 440 block ? ... is in no way comparable to a 413. The 413 is a TRUCK block -- compared to a 440 "car" block ? ....what have you been smokin' ? You would rather have a 400(that are famous for thin-wall-blocks) to a 413 ? ...THIS just SHOWS how much you know about Mopars.

And you can just BOLT-IN a 440 ? ... in a 413 RV application ?? .... WrongO again Ford guy !

STICK with your Ford school-bus...we are talking Mopars here.


The 440 heads are better. They have open chambers, hardened valve seats, better flow. The 440-3 has valve rotators.

As I have already pointed out, any 440 block is perfectly fine for ANY street engine. An unmodified 440 block will hold up to 6000+RPM & 600HP. Ditto for a 400 block...600HP is no problem. They're not as thick as the 383 or 440, but, well...it's not an issue. That, and throw a cut-down 413 or 440 crank in a 400 block for a nice 452 stroker...or offset-grind the crank to a BB Chevy rod bearing size for 474ci. The 400 has the largest bore of any Mopar big-block.

How, pray tell, is a 440 different from a 413 externally? They're both RB engines...other than possibly different balance weights (just use a zero-balance converter & B&M flexplate if it's a 440-3...regular 440 is internal-balance), they're the same.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/29/07 12:47pm

Jarlaxle wrote:



The 440 heads are better. They have open chambers, hardened valve seats, better flow. The 440-3 has valve rotators.

As I have already pointed out, any 440 block is perfectly fine for ANY street engine. An unmodified 440 block will hold up to 6000+RPM & 600HP. Ditto for a 400 block...600HP is no problem. They're not as thick as the 383 or 440, but, well...it's not an issue. That, and throw a cut-down 413 or 440 crank in a 400 block for a nice 452 stroker...or offset-grind the crank to a BB Chevy rod bearing size for 474ci. The 400 has the largest bore of any Mopar big-block.

How, pray tell, is a 440 different from a 413 externally? They're both RB engines...other than possibly different balance weights (just use a zero-balance converter & B&M flexplate if it's a 440-3...regular 440 is internal-balance), they're the same.



The 440 heads ? ...which heads are for the 440 only ? There are NONE. .... and for 99.99% of the applications that apply to people HERE on rv.net the RV/Truck/Industrial heads are better. YES .. the regular B-engine heads have better flow ... but that is not needed in THIS application. There are very few people here that are that comcerned with operating an engine in the 5500-6500 rpm range. Most gas engine RV applications operate in the 2000 to 3000 range. The 440-3 has valve rotators? ... I have pulled-apart a dozen or so of these motors and NONE have had them. In which service manual does it say that they were installed on a 440-3 ?

You "point out" stuff that does not apply AGAIN to a typical RV application. The reason WHY Chrysler made the 413 was to build the best truck engine. The block is a TON better than any regular-production block ...with the exception of the Hemi block.

And to "point-out" some of the "MYTHS" of what you say about the "hi-performance" aspects of your posts. Opened chambered heads are better? ...why then are MOST aftermarket heads made in the closed chamber design? ANY 440 block is good for 6000+ and 600hp ? ..... you are dead-wrong. The block must be checked for proper cyl wall thickness. MOST 440 blocks are OK ... but your statement saying ALL ...is bad info. "Ditto on the 400 block" ? ..... is horrible info. A friend of mine just had a good 400 block checked and it had section of the block that would have had cyl wall thickness of less than .080 with a .030 overbore.

You state that the 400 block has the largest bore - as it is a GOOD thing .... it is NOT !

And then about your statement - concerning the 440 bolting-into in place of a 413 "with no modification". Again you prove that your Chrysler knowledge is lacking. The exhaust and cooling systems hookups need severe modifications.

I hope you know more about Ford school-buses than you do about Mopars.


Posted By: RobinHoodRV on 07/29/07 01:54pm

I don't know about others but I think this argument, and yes it is an argument, about which engine is superior should be put in another thread. This thread has survived since august of 2004 and I hope it continues but with this stupid battle between you guys I'm afraid the moderator will close this thread.

I really hope the moderator takes pity on us Dodge owners and doesn't close this thread and instead just deletes or moves the last so many posts about the 413 vs 440 engines.

If you prefer one over the other, great! Now, CAN we get back to what this thread was created for!!!!




Posted By: Jarlaxle on 07/29/07 06:34pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Jarlaxle wrote:



The 440 heads are better. They have open chambers, hardened valve seats, better flow. The 440-3 has valve rotators.

As I have already pointed out, any 440 block is perfectly fine for ANY street engine. An unmodified 440 block will hold up to 6000+RPM & 600HP. Ditto for a 400 block...600HP is no problem. They're not as thick as the 383 or 440, but, well...it's not an issue. That, and throw a cut-down 413 or 440 crank in a 400 block for a nice 452 stroker...or offset-grind the crank to a BB Chevy rod bearing size for 474ci. The 400 has the largest bore of any Mopar big-block.

How, pray tell, is a 440 different from a 413 externally? They're both RB engines...other than possibly different balance weights (just use a zero-balance converter & B&M flexplate if it's a 440-3...regular 440 is internal-balance), they're the same.



The 440 heads ? ...which heads are for the 440 only ? There are NONE. .... and for 99.99% of the applications that apply to people HERE on rv.net the RV/Truck/Industrial heads are better. YES .. the regular B-engine heads have better flow ... but that is not needed in THIS application. There are very few people here that are that comcerned with operating an engine in the 5500-6500 rpm range. Most gas engine RV applications operate in the 2000 to 3000 range. The 440-3 has valve rotators? ... I have pulled-apart a dozen or so of these motors and NONE have had them. In which service manual does it say that they were installed on a 440-3 ?

You "point out" stuff that does not apply AGAIN to a typical RV application. The reason WHY Chrysler made the 413 was to build the best truck engine. The block is a TON better than any regular-production block ...with the exception of the Hemi block.

And to "point-out" some of the "MYTHS" of what you say about the "hi-performance" aspects of your posts. Opened chambered heads are better? ...why then are MOST aftermarket heads made in the closed chamber design? ANY 440 block is good for 6000+ and 600hp ? ..... you are dead-wrong. The block must be checked for proper cyl wall thickness. MOST 440 blocks are OK ... but your statement saying ALL ...is bad info. "Ditto on the 400 block" ? ..... is horrible info. A friend of mine just had a good 400 block checked and it had section of the block that would have had cyl wall thickness of less than .080 with a .030 overbore.

You state that the 400 block has the largest bore - as it is a GOOD thing .... it is NOT !

And then about your statement - concerning the 440 bolting-into in place of a 413 "with no modification". Again you prove that your Chrysler knowledge is lacking. The exhaust and cooling systems hookups need severe modifications.

I hope you know more about Ford school-buses than you do about Mopars.


I feel like I'm trying to get through to a 5-year old here...

The FACTORY closed chamber heads are inferior to the FACTORY open-chamber heads, which should be very obvious.

I have torn down two 440-3's, & both had rotators. However, not all motorhome 440's are "dash-threes".

600HP is no biggie on a 400 or 440 block. Heck, it's been done dozens of times. They're plenty strong.

I've never seen any Chrysler V8 block that couldn't safely take a .030" overbore (though seen a couple that couldn't go any more). IIRC (my engine book isn't handy), the minimum spec is .060" on the non-thrust side. Bigger is better, and a bigger bore means a bigger engine. Of course, sonic-checking ANY used block is a good idea.

A 413 & a 440 (and a 383RB, and a 426W) use the same water pumps & exhaust (other than, obviously, year-to-year & chassis differences).

The 440 does everything at least as well as the 413, & most things better.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/29/07 09:17pm

RobinHoodRV wrote:

I don't know about others but I think this argument, and yes it is an argument, about which engine is superior should be put in another thread. This thread has survived since august of 2004 and I hope it continues but with this stupid battle between you guys I'm afraid the moderator will close this thread.

I really hope the moderator takes pity on us Dodge owners and doesn't close this thread and instead just deletes or moves the last so many posts about the 413 vs 440 engines.

If you prefer one over the other, great! Now, CAN we get back to what this thread was created for!!!!



I have no beef with this guy ....he is just posting UNaccurate info. Which is totally wrong.

On edit ...... if he prefers (for whatever reason) the 440 ...that is fine. But my "argument" with him is the WRONG "tech" data he is posting.

He is almost saying(to carry it to an extreme) ... that the 440 is a 6 cylinder engine.

* This post was edited 07/29/07 09:38pm by MasterBoondocker *


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/29/07 09:33pm

Jarlaxle wrote:



I feel like I'm trying to get through to a 5-year old here...

The FACTORY closed chamber heads are inferior to the FACTORY open-chamber heads, which should be very obvious.

I have torn down two 440-3's, & both had rotators. However, not all motorhome 440's are "dash-threes".

600HP is no biggie on a 400 or 440 block. Heck, it's been done dozens of times. They're plenty strong.

I've never seen any Chrysler V8 block that couldn't safely take a .030" overbore (though seen a couple that couldn't go any more). IIRC (my engine book isn't handy), the minimum spec is .060" on the non-thrust side. Bigger is better, and a bigger bore means a bigger engine. Of course, sonic-checking ANY used block is a good idea.

A 413 & a 440 (and a 383RB, and a 426W) use the same water pumps & exhaust (other than, obviously, year-to-year & chassis differences).

The 440 does everything at least as well as the 413, & most things better.


The 5-year-old ...is the one that is throwing a hissy fit ...and posting totally wrong info.

Open chamber vs closed ?..... you say the OPEN is the best? wrongO again ....why then is the most prized iron head the 915 67 head? ...and the max wedge heads were ALSO closed chambered.

The 440-3's had valve-rotators? .... quote me from any factory service manual this fact.

You say a .060 cyl wall is "safe" ....not on any engine I have seen. People have junked-blocks with less than .100. Why THEN did they build the mega-block with .250 plus? ...and you say .060 is OK. A bigger bore is better? ... why are alot of the big inch factory motors now V-10's ? ....

ENGAGE your brain ...before typing please. The LIST of wrong info that you continue to post grows larger and longer with every strike of your key-board.


Posted By: timmac on 07/29/07 11:25pm

Yea lets change the subject, we all know that the 440 was the high water mark for the Mopar gas big block before there big change in late 79 to earlier 80..

Has any one with a older class c with 16.5in tires has changed to 16in tires and rims, was there much change in the RPM's, how much lower did it drop, any clearance problems etc...


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/29/07 11:55pm

timmac wrote:

Yea lets change the subject, we all know that the 440 was the high water mark for the Mopar gas big block before there big change in late 79 to earlier 80..

Has any one with a older class c with 16.5in tires has changed to 16in tires and rims, was there much change in the RPM's, how much lower did it drop, any clearance problems etc...


I agree ....change the topic OR post correct info. Is this a Britney Spears chat-room based on "fantasy" ? ....or is this stuff supposed to be fact and opinion ??

The 16.5 v 16 tires ? ....depends on the diameter OF the tire. The 16 inch tires ARE more commonly available in a TALLER design. And YES I know of two people that have changed to the 16's on a Class C MH.

IF memory serves .... they had to trim the lower leading edge of the front fender for tire clearance.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/30/07 05:09am

Wow!


Anyway, I'm changing my 16.5's to 16" because I can't find tires. Simply get a diameter of the tire to match your current tires.

Piece of cake!

BABY'S GOT BRAKE!!!! Woo-Hoo!!!!!! I don't know how (or why) the previous owner of my rig drove this thing, but there were no brakes!

Not anymore! New master cylinder, new PB booster, new steel lines, new rubber lines, new calipers, new pads, etc. Nice, solid pedal now!!!!

Now to get her running properly...


Posted By: Leeann on 07/30/07 06:49am

^ woohooo! Brakes are very important

Go through and adjust everything on the carb to factory spec....then play as necessary (every adjustment on ours was so far out it wasn't funny).

But first, make sure the ballast resistor, coil, ignition module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor....everything, in other words, are good. They were all weak on ours.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/30/07 09:12am

Yes, Leeann. I am still waiting for the "new" intake and carb. I'm not even going to bother with the lousey Holley 2v that's on there now. I hope I don't have to pull the gas tank out, but I probably should clean it, just to be safe.

Also discovered a coolant loss, and while I was under her doing brake lines, I was getting dripped on by coolant from the strut that runs between the tranny and the block. I am assuming it's the core plugs leaking. Can I knock in new ones without yanking the engine?

Eric


Posted By: Leeann on 07/30/07 10:12am

Hm...that's the one problem we don't have on ours. So I haven't looked...

That said, if you can see them, I don't see why you can't. I have the service manual for mine at home - I'll take a look later and see if that says anything.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/30/07 12:47pm

Here's the Master Boondockers rig! I was right! It's one of those Saturday Morning Cartoon looking thing! Was it Land of the Lost? Anyway, I think it's REAL COOL!!!!!!!!!! thanks for sharing!

* This post was edited 07/31/07 06:12am by 79powerwagon *


Posted By: Big_John on 07/30/07 01:38pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Big_John wrote:

In the industrial engine, yes, Chrysler did their homework and I'm sure the valve size is great for that application. A motorhome? I don't know. First you've got more cubic inches to feed. There's no getting around that. Then you're not running at a constant speed like you are with a stationary industrial engine. I think the small valve may narrow the power band. Under 3000 RPM may be fine for you, but for me, climbing steep hills and sometimes towing a car trailer, there are times were the RPM in my motorhome goes over 3000 RPM.

Honestly? It may work fine. Chrysler used the bigger valves in all the 440's they built though. They never saw the need to use a smaller valve.

Try it and report back. Its got me curious.



First ... this motor was designed and put in way more MHs(and trucks) ....than "industrial" by far. Are you aware that there were TWO "industrial" motors ? ... the 413 and the 361.

In a MH application you ARE running a basic "one rpm" for most of the running time. For SURE it narrows the power band AND the max output ... but I would rather have a motor that will run it's best in the range of 800-4500 than one that will run up to 6k. But is this just me?

Those HEADS are the reason why Chrysler dropped the 413 combo. That total motor cost Chrysler 250$ more PER UNIT ...than the 440 that it replaced. The exh valves? ... were sodium filled. They cost almost 50$ each(at the dealer) ! .... the rotators cost a TON too. ALL those items add-up ...big-time.

Try what ? ..... the flow work ? .... my intent is to get the fuel/air mixture automized the BEST .... at and around 3k. If this means epoxing up the intake ports ...so be it.


Boy... I actually go camping for the weekend and this thread kinda goes in a little different direction.

But anyway... yes, I knew about the 361. Chrysler has built a bunch of different industrial engines.

That range of 800 to 4500rpm is where the stock 440 shines. I don't think anyone will disagree with that. It was never meant as a high RPM engine. Again, in my application, I do very little sustained speed highway driving and I see a lot of different RPM ranges.

My comments are really aimed at a small valve 413 head on a 440 engine. The 413 is a good piece, all the way around, just as the 440 is.

Try it? yes... exactly that. Bolt the heads on and head down the highway. Flow benches, dynos, whatever... will tell you a lot, but until the rubber hits the road, its only theory and a bunch of data points. FUN (note word "FUN") to talk about on forums such as these and interesting when someone actually gets their hands dirty and reports back.


Posted By: Leeann on 07/30/07 05:25pm

PW - I can't find anything in the service manual, but the bf says if you can reach them, you can change them. Use a small, narrow-blade chisel to get them out. You'll probably have to punch them and twist them out. Then you'll need a wide wooden dowel or brass seal punch thing to knock in the new ones.

If they're like the ones in my 240, they're bedded in with blue RTV.


Posted By: Leeann on 07/30/07 05:29pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

In which service manual does it say that they were installed on a 440-3 ? .


Dodge Motor Home Chassis Service Manual 81.370.3073, pages 9-33 through 9-38. With pictures.


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/30/07 07:49pm

No doubt Big John,

we went camping too. Like three new pages! I thought it was a little technical for this forum but I did enjoy it. My thoughts is that I would want a very flexible power band in this application. This has to be combined with desired fuel economy. Industrial engines are built on a narrow power band as they reach needed RPM and stay there for long period. I think it's cool if these heads will be an enhancement so let us know what you get.

I'm really liking the 360 I've got. PW, you decide on carb? Edel 600cfm? Will it fit under the dog house with the perfomer? Do the putty test yet? You hope it' a core plug. Punch em sideways with a small punch or screwdriver so the swivel in the hole and grab em with a wrench and pull em out. punch a new "brass" one back in. You don't have a shiny spark plug in the back do you? Do small block heads have a coolant galley though the back? Maybe a small leak on the back of the head?

360 has good power for me with decent gas mileage. I don't like my oil pressure at all. stays around 12 psi hot. I need a tach. I imagine it's full of sludge. Anyway, I'm not going to drop tons of time and money into her but enuough to get her reliable and enjoyable.

Ken


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/30/07 08:02pm

Leeann wrote:

MasterBoondocker wrote:

In which service manual does it say that they were installed on a 440-3 ? .


Dodge Motor Home Chassis Service Manual 81.370.3073, pages 9-33 through 9-38. With pictures.


SORRY Leeann .... I have that exact # service manual and if you LOOK at those pics OF those heads WITH those rotators ....

They are CLEARLY the 413 "industrial" heads.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/30/07 08:31pm

Big_John wrote:



That range of 800 to 4500rpm is where the stock 440 shines. I don't think anyone will disagree with that. It was never meant as a high RPM engine. Again, in my application, I do very little sustained speed highway driving and I see a lot of different RPM ranges.

My comments are really aimed at a small valve 413 head on a 440 engine. The 413 is a good piece, all the way around, just as the 440 is.

Try it? yes... exactly that. Bolt the heads on and head down the highway. Flow benches, dynos, whatever... will tell you a lot, but until the rubber hits the road, its only theory and a bunch of data points. FUN (note word "FUN") to talk about on forums such as these and interesting when someone actually gets their hands dirty and reports back.


Comments, thoughts and OPINIONS is what this forum is all about. But I must take-issue with info that is posted as TECH and a FACT - and that is flat-out wrong. Sorry -- that is just me.

The range of the 413 is just a tad short of what you claim for the 440. But WHERE do you run your 440 at 4500 rpm for any extended period of time? Would you not agree that 2500-3000 is where most-of-us run these motors?

The valve sizes are too small on the 413 ? ...... why then would the aftermarket head builders for race-stuff only build most of their heads with a 1.81 exh valve? .... and this is to be put on a motor that is very near 500 cubic inches and rpmed UP to 7000 commonly ?

My hands have-been-dirty and will be getting more-so with this project. My main object is to get the best fuel-econ as possible.


Posted By: MasterBoondocker on 07/30/07 09:47pm

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Leeann wrote:

MasterBoondocker wrote:

In which service manual does it say that they were installed on a 440-3 ? .


Dodge Motor Home Chassis Service Manual 81.370.3073, pages 9-33 through 9-38. With pictures.


SORRY Leeann .... I have that exact # service manual and if you LOOK at those pics OF those heads WITH those rotators ....

They are CLEARLY the 413 "industrial" heads.


I ask you Leeann ...why do you come after me on this -- when it was very clear that the other-guy was so wrong - on so many other TECH and real-world FACTS ?

Should I post a "correction" ? ..... but maybe looking at the service manual again and then again ...I don't know.

The pic on page 9-37 and fig#15 show what is described as a valve assembly listed as a 440-3. But the valve certainly appears much smaller than the well know 1.74 valve. And it appears to me to be the SAME size as the fig#16 - showing a 413-1 assembly. And BOTH of the pics show a rotator as part of that assembly. But is this correct? ... the people who made this service manual make another CLEAR error on the very next page fig#19-installing exhaust valves(440-3 engine). This head pictured IN this photo is CLEARLY an A-engine cylinder head.

I have pulled apart many MH 440's and I have NEVER seen a 440 in a truck chassis that has had exh valve rotators. In the last hour ...I called a Bud who worked at a dealership during the years that Chrysler was KING of the MH/truck chassis market. He has never seen rotators on the 440 either.

Oh well. Someone what to "talk" about this more ? ... Go for it.


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/31/07 05:55am

Personally I have enjoyed the talk as I can only learn. I just think that some gave you their honest opinions and you jumped down their throat? I mean you did ask for their opinions. Just need to be ready if you don't hear what you want to hear. I did ask some of my true mopar buddies about it and they both had the first word come out of their mouth be, Why? But....these guys are racers and they never saw an engine they didn't want to make breath better. IMO, I think you are going to limit yourself when you do need a larger power band like in heavy traffic or climbing extended hills with a load or towing. I mean, you are basically, sorta, making a peaky motor and will be constantly trying to keep it in a narrow band to get what you want out of it. I say sorta because I think the cam is the most important tool in controlling your power band for fuel economy and power. So maybe this will be the perfect set up? Maybe it won't make any difference at all? The question is, is it worth it? The trade off that is? As Big J. said, Need to put the rubbber to the road. That's all there is left to do. Post back and let us know.


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/31/07 06:20am

Thanks for the info Leeann! I'll get a set on order and start whacking away!

Ken, the intake and carb I'm waiting on is an oem set-up with a quadra-bog carb, it all should fit neatly under the dog house.

I had the Eddy performer intake and 600cfm on my PW, and with the right engine bits, that sucker had TONS of power! Ran pretty good in the 1/4 mile, too!

I understand what the Doc is trying to accomplish (sorry folks, I mean MBD. I know him as Doc from another life), and I think his experiment, whether it's successful or not, is a valid one. I just don't know anything about the 413 truck engines AT ALL. The 440 I know, but like Ken said, mine's built for speed and drivability. This is in my 1966 Dodge Charger.

And to step back to the flavor of this original thread, now that I have brakes, I just ordered a set of 16x6 wheels for the Tioga! WOO-HOO! No more searching for 16.5 tires!!!!!!!

I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...

Eric


Posted By: Big_John on 07/31/07 07:29am

MasterBoondocker wrote:

Big_John wrote:



That range of 800 to 4500rpm is where the stock 440 shines. I don't think anyone will disagree with that. It was never meant as a high RPM engine. Again, in my application, I do very little sustained speed highway driving and I see a lot of different RPM ranges.

My comments are really aimed at a small valve 413 head on a 440 engine. The 413 is a good piece, all the way around, just as the 440 is.

Try it? yes... exactly that. Bolt the heads on and head down the highway. Flow benches, dynos, whatever... will tell you a lot, but until the rubber hits the road, its only theory and a bunch of data points. FUN (note word "FUN") to talk about on forums such as these and interesting when someone actually gets their hands dirty and reports back.


Comments, thoughts and OPINIONS is what this forum is all about. But I must take-issue with info that is posted as TECH and a FACT - and that is flat-out wrong. Sorry -- that is just me.

The range of the 413 is just a tad short of what you claim for the 440. But WHERE do you run your 440 at 4500 rpm for any extended period of time? Would you not agree that 2500-3000 is where most-of-us run these motors?

The valve sizes are too small on the 413 ? ...... why then would the aftermarket head builders for race-stuff only build most of their heads with a 1.81 exh valve? .... and this is to be put on a motor that is very near 500 cubic inches and rpmed UP to 7000 commonly ?

My hands have-been-dirty and will be getting more-so with this project. My main object is to get the best fuel-econ as possible.


Yes, I do agree that "most users" will run at 2500-3000 RPM and my 440 isn't run at 4500 RPM for any "extended" period of time, but it does hit the top end of that range with some regularity. The bottom of the two mile long steep hill that leads up to the house comes to mind along with trying to blend into 75-80 MPH traffic on the NYS Thruway on ramps (when I use the Interstate, which isn't that often) At those times, I really desire the most power available and gas mileage is pretty much tossed out the window.

Of course, that said, I never consider myself as a "most user" and if I had a narrower power band, I'd like a gear or two more in my transmission to keep it at that range. One of the reasons I have always preferred the 440 is it has a broad power band that works well with the torqueflite trans.

As far as the race heads, yes, 1.81 exhaust valves are used, but IMHO, the big block Mopar head has more limitations on the intake side. Chrysler themselves addressed this back in the early sixties with the max-wedge. If you look at B1 race heads, you'll see they use a 1.78 exhaust and a 2.30 Intake. But.. of course, now you're talking about a head with raised ports, repositioned valves and spark plug, etc. Of course, you can't bolt a stock intake up to that as the intake ports are different. But... that's a race head. Let's keep that in perspective. Apples vs. Apples.

Its only my opinion about the valve size. I've never claimed it to be anything else.

Concerning the service manual, keep in mind that its written for the mechanic and are written prior to actual production. I've noticed in many other manuals, not just the truck manuals, that the pictures may not be 100% correct for the application. If you look in other manuals, you'll see the same picture over and over again. Its more about illustrating the procedure then anything else. Its another source of info, but in this case, a picture is not worth a thousand words.

* This post was edited 07/31/07 07:37am by Big_John *


Posted By: Big_John on 07/31/07 07:33am

79powerwagon wrote:

Thanks for the info Leeann! I'll get a set on order and start whacking away!

Ken, the intake and carb I'm waiting on is an oem set-up with a quadra-bog carb, it all should fit neatly under the dog house.

I had the Eddy performer intake and 600cfm on my PW, and with the right engine bits, that sucker had TONS of power! Ran pretty good in the 1/4 mile, too!

I understand what the Doc is trying to accomplish (sorry folks, I mean MBD. I know him as Doc from another life), and I think his experiment, whether it's successful or not, is a valid one. I just don't know anything about the 413 truck engines AT ALL. The 440 I know, but like Ken said, mine's built for speed and drivability. This is in my 1966 Dodge Charger.

And to step back to the flavor of this original thread, now that I have brakes, I just ordered a set of 16x6 wheels for the Tioga! WOO-HOO! No more searching for 16.5 tires!!!!!!!

I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...

Eric


Hey! A '66 Charger! I have a '69 A12 Roadrunner!


Posted By: Leeann on 07/31/07 09:27am

MasterBoondocker wrote:


I ask you Leeann ...why do you come after me on this -- when it was very clear that the other-guy was so wrong - on so many other TECH and real-world FACTS ?


Whoa. I go after no one. You asked what service manual showed rotators on the 440. I was looking for something else in my manual and saw that, so I simply answered the question that was in amongst the rest of the crap.

That's all.


Posted By: Leeann on 07/31/07 09:29am

79powerwagon wrote:


I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...

Eric


We had one spare mounted on the spare tire thing on the back, but wanted to carry 2. So the bf took threaded rod large enough, cut it to length, used large washers and bolted it to the spare that was bolted to the carrier, sticking out. Then put the second spare on that and used more large washers and nuts.

It's pretty secure. Gone on 2 150+ mile trips without loosening (yes, we do check).


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/31/07 09:35am

I like you already, Big John! An A12 car, eh?

Excellent!


Posted By: 79powerwagon on 07/31/07 09:41am

Leeann wrote:

79powerwagon wrote:


I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...

Eric


We had one spare mounted on the spare tire thing on the back, but wanted to carry 2. So the bf took threaded rod large enough, cut it to length, used large washers and bolted it to the spare that was bolted to the carrier, sticking out. Then put the second spare on that and used more large washers and nuts.

It's pretty secure. Gone on 2 150+ mile trips without loosening (yes, we do check).


If you recall, this old Dodge uses dually in the rear, and convention singles up front. The spare hanging under the house (stock location for the Dodge chassis) is the conventional style, and the dually won't fit. My house has a rear entry door, so no room on the back. I could mount it on the nose, but then I'd be affecting my cold air flow to the engine. And, since I'm no spring chicken anymore, the roof is out of the question!

There is only 12' of interior space... maybe just yank out the fridge, no wait! Where will the beer go?

I guess I'll keep nosing around the rig, I'll find a spot for it!

Eric


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/31/07 04:46pm

Eric,

Is the front hub assembly different that it cannot take the dually half? seems these would be in great supply in a junk yard? I only carry one half as my front takes the dually half (whatever they are called) and figure I can limp on one if both go in the back. to much of a PITA and weight to carry two!

Ken


Posted By: Leeann on 07/31/07 05:41pm

Most Dodge B300 chassis use different rims front and rear. Unfortunately...

My A takes the same front and rear, but the '75 C I had first had different rims.


Posted By: Big_John on 07/31/07 06:32pm

What if you mounted the second wheel to the back bumper and had it hinge down and become a step for the back door? A piece of plywood mounted to the back of the wheel for the step and maybe a hinged leg to drop to the ground to stabilize the whole unit.

Just a random thought.


Posted By: mkpj1 on 07/31/07 07:59pm

Here me out guys,

I know the rims are different but is the actual hub assembly different? I'm sorry but I'm a old ford rebuilder (No Flames please) and I took the front end out of a 73 F100 to put in my my 68 that had drums. I did it for the disc brakes, power brakes, and power steering. It was bolt on, 4 bolts! I got the parts for next to nothing. I am sure that Chrysler is the same as it is much cheaper. Is the lug set up different on the hub?

Ken


Posted By: eyeteeth on 07/31/07 08:15pm

Wow... a lot of posts about something I couldn't even ready about...

The family just returned from a 1300 miles round trip to pick up our new old Dodge.

I really wish the unit matched the description a bit better. On a positive note... it did make it 650+ miles back home in 90+ heat. But it will need much more work then I'd expected. The previous owner was at least very helpful, and even apologetic. (It's a unit that hasn't realy seen any use in the last 2 years) There are some things he says he's willing to work out, so final judgment and details will be delayed. In the meantime, plenty of questions will be forthcoming...

So for the details. It's a 24ft '79 Dodge Holiday Ramblette. Previous owner said it was a 360, but I happened upon some 440 parts tucked in a corner this evening? So I'm not 100% sure anymore. It has a cab over, sofa, two captians chairs in the living quaters, and the nice big seats with arm rests in the cab. Stand up shower/half tub, and the all important (for me anyway) bunk beds in the back. It also has a real solid, heavy duty bumper and trailer which which will come in very handy taking the karts to the race track. Roof AC, but no Generator. Seperate Black and Grey Tanks. That about covers it.

The Previous owner was kind enough to let up "camp" in his driveway overnight before going through all the formalities. He was kind enough to go through the trouble of freshly coating the roof before we arrived. Which was proabably a very good thing as we arrived during flash flood storm warnings. The unit was "almost" sealed tight. There was supposed to be water damage in only one spot due to having left a window slightly open once... but we happened upon several areas that will need attention. I won't get into it all yet. But, apart from the "known" area... nothing else came in. All the other areas I would classify as "previous" and has been fixed. There was enough rain... if there was apossibility of getting in, it would have found the way.

I'll have pictures posted soon. But first... a few questions. First thing we need to do, is make the unit a little more "drive" friendly. The carpet in the cab is some old spare carpet taken out of a house... not fastened down at all. But, the area is not sealed from the engine compartment. Peeling it back, I found a couple grommets or seals that were missing. So, as the engine worked pretty hard to bring us home in 90+ heat and 90%+ humidity, all that engine heat was trying to cook my wife and I in the cab. In addition to replacing those seals, what else can I do to cut down the heat exchange from the engine to the Cab? Then... my second question for now. The engine never really overheated, but the dog house did become rather warm to the touch... I hope I'm not about to unleash a highly debateable topic... but what have some of ya'll done to get these to run a little cooler? It was fine first thing in the morning, and later in the evening, but through the heat of the day, It seemed the cooling system just couldn't keep up.

Thanks a bunch, and I'll get a few pictures once I do a little cleaning.


Posted By: Big_John on 07/31/07 08:34pm

eyeteeth wrote:

Wow... a lot of posts about something I couldn't even ready about...

The family just returned from a 1300 miles round trip to pick up our new old Dodge.

I really wish the unit matched the description a bit better. On a positive note... it did make it 650+ miles back home in 90+ heat. But it will need much more work then I'd expected. The previous owner was at least very helpful, and even apologetic. (It's a unit that hasn't realy seen any use in the last 2 years) There are some things he says he's willing to work out, so final judgment and details will be delayed. In the meantime, plenty of questions will be forthcoming...

So for the details. It's a 24ft '79 Dodge Holiday Ramblette. Previous owner said it was a 360, but I happened upon some 440 parts tucked in a corner this evening? So I'm not 100% sure anymore. It has a cab over, sofa, two captians chairs in the living quaters, and the nice big seats with arm rests in the cab. Stand up shower/half tub, and the all important (for me anyway) bunk beds in the back. It also has a real solid, heavy duty bumper and trailer which which will come in very