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 > Maintenance Reminder for Full-Timers

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skeetshooter

The Woodlands, Texas

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Posted: 01/07/05 04:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As always good reminders Tony. Hope the weather is getting better out your way.
SS


SkeetShooter
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bownder will

west

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Posted: 01/07/05 07:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just a really great reminder firedude! Thanks!

Bill

amazed and confused

Lakehills, TX USA

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Posted: 01/07/05 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Firedud,

My first time here. I get the newsletter, but have never gone to the forum. That is the most practical and quality advice I've read. It was all dead on the money. The only thing I would add is something you probably would not know about since you have a Suburban. With an Atwood water heater you have a plastic drain plug from the factory. This really needs to be changed to either a brass plug or an anode rod(must be an Atwood rod-Suburban won't fit) From heating and cooling the plastic plug gets brittle and breaks flush with the water heater. You then have to try to dig that part inside the water heater out without damaging the aluminum threads.

amazed and confused

firedude

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Posted: 01/11/05 02:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another tid bit I forgot to mention in the original post is water pressure regulators. This especially applies to full-timers sincve the wate connection is used most year round.............

I had noticed over a period of time my water pressure had seemd to dropped off a bit. It just didn't seem I had the water pressure I had before. I chalked this up to the water system here. It seemd to slowlt gfet worse over time. Well after I replaced my anode rod and flushed out the hot water tank and saw all the crud that came out I had a hunch. If the inside if my hot water tank looked that bad and the abode rod was nearly gone (doing its job) then surely the water would have an affect on the water pressure regulator. I had a new one lying around and replaced it. Bam! Water pressure back to normal flow! Over time it had built up all the deposits etc and had eventually restricted flow. It will be a once a year thing for me now.

Tony

bstow

Northwest New Mexico.

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Posted: 01/21/05 04:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Firedude:
Thanks, its a great list. Copy & pasted it, then saved it in my laptop. Will make it my checklist.

Bob-88Bounder

Oxnard, Ca

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Posted: 02/01/05 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi FireDude,
Great list.
ADD
GENERATORS: Check you log book -- you do have one of course -- see how many hours it's been since your last oil and filter change.

That genset vibrates a lot. Check the bolts and nuts that hold it in place to be sure they are tight.


Bob
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BillyP

Cedar Point, NC

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Posted: 02/10/05 05:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

THanks for the reminder!

PhotoJoe1

Arizona

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Posted: 02/10/05 06:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Another tid bit I forgot to mention in the original post is water pressure regulators. This especially applies to full-timers sincve the wate connection is used most year round.............
Tony


Hey Tony, maybe it would be a good ideal to put the water sediment filter in front of the water pressure regulator. I think that would keep the water pressure requlator free of the qulk that would clog it up. The stuff that build up in the hot water heater is mainly from using it with the electric heating element.

PhotoJoe

firedude

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Posted: 02/10/05 07:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Joe! Great idea! I did that last week LOL! Took me a while to realize it and sat out in the 'ol lawn chair and it hit me. I agree the problem worsens by using the electrical heating element however depending on the water source you can also get in trouble. A good example was a water tanker we had in the fire dept. The water and all the stuff in it finally ate through the wall of the tank (in several places) and the tank had to be replaced. That tank was not heated. Depending on the condition of the water and the minerals it contains you can get the same thing. Now a device like a anode rod is put in the tank every six months to help slow the process and keep all the bad elements in check. Water consition varies from place to place but in some places can be pretty "hard" stuff and given the type of tanks we use on our rv's it wouldn't take long for the damage to be done.

firedude

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Posted: 02/10/05 07:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ah yes good old rust!

Well I recently looked at all the screws on the exterior of my 5'er. The ones that hold molding and trim on as well as other things. I noticed most were rusting pretty bad. Here I have this 5'er that still looks like it came off the showroom floor and all these "red" screws lol. Looked pretty bad. I even had a few campers mention it so the firedude went to work.

The screws the manufacturers use ar metal. Yep good old rust magnets. I went down to good old ACE Hardware and bought all new screws but this time Stainless Steel as they won't rust. I took a large piece styrofoam block from packing stuff I had and stuck all the screws into the block. I then painted them white with a good gloss paint. let them set a couple days to dry/cure and then replaced all my "red" screws. Looks so much better now.

Cost me maybe $25 all together and of course some time to replace them but well worth it.To me anyway. Just another tid bit.

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