Old & Slow

Texas

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* This post was
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edited 10/18/09 09:53am by Old & Slow *
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vmckague

Central Missouri

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Joined: 12/25/2007

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Thanks Prof on the tip about the stove rope, so it's off to Lowes for me and my wife. She just loves Lowes---NOT! Maybe I'll drop her off at WalMart so I can have more time just looking around. Might even find some tools I need and didn't know it.
Mr Wizard, where can I find this IIRC heat wrap? Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions.
Vernon
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MrWizard

Van Nuys, Ca

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its Header Heat wrap for Hi-Po engines
IIRC ( If I Recall Correctly )
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....
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professor95

Mechanicsville, VA

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MrWizard wrote:
IIRC ( If I Recall Correctly )
You got me on that one too! I thought it was a particular brand (IIRC).
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the spoiled rotten Dachshund, Mechanicsville, VA
2009 Cedar Creek 34SATS 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 HDT Hauler
Even a bad day camping in our RV is always better than a good day at work!
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professor95

Mechanicsville, VA

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vmckague wrote: Thanks Prof on the tip about the stove rope, so it's off to Lowes for me and my wife. She just loves Lowes---NOT!
Oh, come on..... Nancy and I just left Lowe's. She got caught up with all of the different Halloween and Christmas blow up stuff and I just about never got her out of the carpet section so I could get my stuff.
I honestly thought we were going to leave with a $129.00 blow-up laughing Santa!!! (thank goodness we did not!)
You had better watch you wife closely as she might do the same.
You do not need both the "IIRC" heat wrap and the stove rope. One or the other will work fine alone.
BTW - the Champion 40026 with the RV outlet and the digital meter is marked at $329.00, down from $369.00 at the Lowe's store we visited. A really nice machine complete with wheel kit and the RV outlet for an exceptionally fair price.
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waybo418

Virginia

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Hey y'all. Just back from the race in Charlotte. The Champion did great! Started on the first or second pull everytime and only used about 8 gallons of fuel for approximately 32 hours run time. It wasn't the quietest one there, but it certianly wasn't the loudest either. I noticed several other Champions in the campground as well.
In fact, I wish the furnace did half as well as the Champ. Propane issues last night and the it was about 40 degrees in the camper when we woke up this morning. Needless to say, DW and daughter were not happy.
The DW already has asked if there was a way to put the Champ on a rack on the rear of the FW. I told her that the one that the Prof had on his TT might suit the bill. So it looks like there is some fabrication in my future. Thanks again for all the info on this thread!
2006 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4 Longbed
2002 Coachman Cascade
1997 Harley Davidson Heritage Springer
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Cox89XJ

Tennessee

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Schematic here
I would have bought the Champion, but a long story short. DD boy friend found this new Kenowa Gen. So my DW said I should buy it. Sooooo! I bought the Kenowa 4500E and it's 220 volt. It had two
12 amp breakers and would not run the A/C. I removed them and install two 15 amps. and it will run the A/C fine, but the A/C is on one winding and I'm thinking I need to rewire the gen for 120 volt only.
In order to disconnect the 220 volt plug and install a 30 RV plug and tie the winding together for a stronger 120 volt circuit. I think I will have to disconnect the two windings where they are tied together hopefully outside of the generator housing. I know it's hard to explain, but my question is. How do you know which side of the winding is the hot and which is the neutral? I hope this link shows.
Edit: I made a 10-4 cable and hooked to the 20amp 220 volt plug on the gen and have it wired to a 50 amp recepticle for the RV. The A/C feeds off one side of the circuit and the rest of the stuff on the other side of the circuit.
* This post was
edited 10/19/09 02:37am by Cox89XJ *
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blkfe

Nebraska

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vmckague wrote: Thanks Prof on the tip about the stove rope, so it's off to Lowes for me and my wife. She just loves Lowes---NOT! Maybe I'll drop her off at WalMart so I can have more time just looking around. Might even find some tools I need and didn't know it.
Mr Wizard, where can I find this IIRC heat wrap? Thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions.
Vernon
Try www.jegs.com
or...your local pep boys....
Brad
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professor95

Mechanicsville, VA

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Bruce,
What is concerning me about rewiring your generator to parallel windings is the junction the schematic shows between the windings. If this is an "internal" connection then it is really more of a project than anyone but a motor/generator repair shop should accomplish.
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Cox89XJ

Tennessee

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professor95 wrote: Bruce,
What is concerning me about rewiring your generator to parallel windings is the junction the schematic shows between the windings. If this is an "internal" connection then it is really more of a project than anyone but a motor/generator repair shop should accomplish.

Professor
As the old saying goes, “they made a mistake and wired it just like the print” which they did. The windings are connected internally. I removed the generator cover where it exposed the terminal block. Then disconnected the wires and check for continuity. Tracing the wires further they go into the winding. It would have been so easy if they had made the connection on the terminal block. Like I said in an earlier post. I made up a 10-4 cord and have the 220 volt plug wired to a 50 amp receptacle that I can plug the fifth wheel into. The generator came with 12 amp breakers and when the A/C would kick on it would trip that circuit. I replaced the two 12 amps with 15 amp Square D breakers and now the 13,500 btu A/C will run and not trip the breakers. The breaker that feeds the A/C also feeds the microwave. I know I won’t be able to run the micro while the A/C is on. The other side of the circuit feeds the rest of the RV. I just hope the windings on the A/C side of the generator hold up. Once the A/C starts and is running it should be below even 12 amp. I would check it with my amp meter, but the batteries for it are dead. I would like to thank you for your response and your contribution to this thread.
Thank you.
Bruce
* This post was
edited 10/20/09 02:20pm by Cox89XJ *
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