Do not forget that flow & pressure are two COMPLETLY different annimals!!!!!!
if you cut back the flow it just takes longer for the pressure to build!!!!!
The best solution would be an adjustable fuel pressure pressure regulator available fronAdvance, Pep Boys, or online at Jegs, Summit, Northern or the like. Be VERY CAREFUL you are buildin a bomb!
Go to lpg it's much safer in this instance.
gasser9 wrote: Do not forget that flow & pressure are two COMPLETLY different annimals!!!!!!
if you cut back the flow it just takes longer for the pressure to build!!!!!
The best solution would be an adjustable fuel pressure pressure regulator available fronAdvance, Pep Boys, or online at Jegs, Summit, Northern or the like. Be VERY CAREFUL you are buildin a bomb!
Go to lpg it's much safer in this instance.
Yes... I know about the difference betweeen flow and pressure. I'm trying to match the flow of the gravity feed tank setup. I have the pump with the lowest psi available. I can only adjust the flow. Its just a test at this point. I'm watching it.
I do have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator from Holley. I paid $35 and had to buy $10 more dollars worth of fittings. However, I wanted to see if I could come up with an alternative. Its fun to try these things and see the results (success or failure).
I mean, if this were only about the generator, then I would have written a check for a new Onan and would have been done with this already.
Maurice
89 Tioga 27ft.
1 Wife, 2 Kids, 1 small dog, no plants
You have two circuit breakers joined by a single tie bar (shown in yellow). There is nothing I can see that would tell me the amperage.
But, there is a third breaker for the 20 amp duplex outlet marked 20 amps (green). This leads me to believe that the breaker pair with the tie bar is in excess of 20 amps.
You cannot wire the generator directly into the MH unless you have a transfer switch. Your old Onan set-up may have included an automatic transfer switch. If it remains, it would be helpful to know the make and model number so I can look up a schematic. Otherwise, you will need to plug your 30 amp RV power cord into the generator when needed. You can do this by replacing the 15-30 twist lock outlet with a 30 amp TT outlet-- which will require enlarging the opening -- or making/buying an adapter to use the 15-30 outlet and change to a female 30 amp TT.
I don't know any other way to say this, so here goes...... You are an apparently intelligent and talented man. But, you are not applying that intelligence to the fuel feed situation. I will try one more time out of the interest of safety for you and your family. Please, DO NOT feed the Chinese generator carburetor with a single line pressurized fuel pump. You are getting this advice from someone who has studied the design of the carburetor and knows the risks, not a casual writer with JAFO. The float bowl in your carb is cheap, thin plastic, it is not soldered brass or nylon. These floats have a reputation for cracking with the stock fuel system. When they crack, they fill with gas and drop, allowing fuel to continuously flow. The needle valve and seat are not a matched set of neoprene seals. Again, a solid metal needle and cheap plastic seat. It is NOT designed for pressure. It will leak regardless of how well it has worked for the past few hours. When it leaks gasoline will run out of the vent in the side of the fuel bowl and drain down into the compartment. The vapors will accumulate in an ignition rich environment. Is it really worth the stubbornest against doing it right and the risk?
Everything else looks good.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the spoiled rotten Dachshund, Mechanicsville, VA
2009 Cedar Creek 34SATS 5th Wheel - GMC 3500 dually Even a bad day camping in our RV is always better than a good day at work!
I don't know any other way to say this, so here goes...... You are an apparently intelligent and talented man. But, you are not applying that intelligence to the fuel feed situation. I will try one more time out of the interest of safety for you and your family. Please, DO NOT feed the Chinese generator carburetor with a single line pressurized fuel pump. You are getting this advice from someone who has studied the design of the carburetor and knows the risks, not a casual writer with JAFO. The float bowl in your carb is cheap, thin plastic, it is not soldered brass or nylon. These floats have a reputation for cracking with the stock fuel system. When they crack, they fill with gas and drop, allowing fuel to continuously flow. The needle valve and seat are not a matched set of neoprene seals. Again, a solid metal needle and cheap plastic seat. It is NOT designed for pressure. It will leak regardless of how well it has worked for the past few hours. When it leaks gasoline will run out of the vent in the side of the fuel bowl and drain down into the compartment. The vapors will accumulate in an ignition rich environment. Is it really worth the stubbornest against doing it right and the risk?
Professor... I am sure that there must be some sort of transfer switch. After all, I am planning to connect this generator to the same three wires that I disconnected from the Onan that I removed. I will do some research on this.
Regarding the gas line.. I'm not being stubborn, just curious and adventurous. I wanted to have creative contribution to the process that I could share. Nonetheless, I finally hear you and will set up the return line. I actually bought another 15 feet of fuel line just incase I had to go this route.
I do appreciate the stern advice. I'm not listening, so you gotta say it louder, right?
Sorry to say but if this guy wants to take the chance of injury to himself or family, that's his business.
He is the one who WILL pay the price.
Pressurizing the fuel in a chinese genset is crazy. When something goes wrong in the middle of the night and the family is in the coach,.....................Someone is going to die!
Professor... I am sure that there must be some sort of transfer switch. After all, I am planning to connect this generator to the same three wires that I disconnected from the Onan that I removed. I will do some research on this.
Regarding the gas line.. I'm not being stubborn, just curious and adventurous. I wanted to have creative contribution to the process that I could share. Nonetheless, I finally hear you and will set up the return line. I actually bought another 15 feet of fuel line just incase I had to go this route.
I do appreciate the stern advice. I'm not listening, so you gotta say it louder, right?
The transfer switch should be an automatically actuating device. It most likely will have a delay of 20-30 seconds before switching over after the generator starts.
The transfer switch is designed to prevent the possible back feeding of power from the genny to the shore line or shore power to the genny -- which could be quite dangerous. Your shore line power cord will go directly to the transfer switch then to the main breaker panel. The switch is in reality a relay that has a coil actuated by power from the generator only. Thus, your shore power is simply feeding into the coach through the switch "as-is".
Maybe this will help you in your search.
The three wires you mentioned coming out from where the old generator once connected should be green, white and black. The green is the ground or grounding wire, the white is the neutral and the black the "hot" wire.
The schematic for your DuroPower generator does not show a bond between neutral and ground. Your Onan did have a bond between neutral and ground. For an application where the generator is physically mounted in the vehicle and the generator frame is physically attached to the vehicle frame bonding can provide first line fault protection by providing a current path that will trip the generator circuit breaker in a hot to ground fault situation. I personally believe an un-bonded generator with a GFCI between the genny and transfer switch is an even safer approach.
To hook your generator to your 3 wires from the coach ATS you should have a L5-30 twist lock male plug that will fit the L5-30 receptacle on the front of your generator.
On your L5-30R 120 volt twist lock outlet the lug with the blue wire will be the designated neutral and will go to the white wire. Black will go to black and green will go to green.
Based on the information you have supplied, this should get you safely powered.
I'm glad to learn that you are abandoning the single supply line fuel feed. FWIW - I have now totally eliminated gasoline (again) as a fuel for my compartmentalized Chinese genny. Even with gravity feed and external venting I was never comfortable with the fuel present in the carburetor in such a confined, heated, ignition prone environment. So, I am back to LPG with no floats or needles that is controlled by a zero pressure vacuum demand regulator and electric solenoid valve.
I bought one of these Chinese jobs and wanted to know if anyone has been able to install a remote start. the unit i bought has a manual choke so that will have to be replaced. I don't plan to install it in my 5th wheel but i don't like getting out of a nice warm trailer to turn the thing off.
TKMJ wrote: I gotta agree on running propane in a genset that is not designed for that fuel. I know several RV and aircraft guys who have done conversions and the exhaust really stings to high heaven. Almost a rotten egg smell Must be the corbon monoxide or other pollutants that are not good for your health. Far from the exhause generated from a properly made propane engine such as on a forklift.
Concerning the useable wattage of the 3500 watt sets that are out there now, I gotta agree that the best you will get is 2400 to 2800 useable watts of power. Remember that 2400 watts is a solid 20
amp circuit at 120 volts. Usually enough to run the A/C in a coach or trailer along with running a few other items to make you comfortable.
Right now my genset is sitting in a hanger because I purchased an old Cessna 172. No power in the hanger. It's enough to run a few lights and power tools while I work on the aircraft. That little 100 pounder with the Honda knock-off sure comes in handy! The aircraft flies very well and is certified for flight. I'm just working on the cosmetics as in buffing out the paint and cleaning up the interior. Not much I can do not being a certified aircraft mechanic. But I can get her looking as good as she flies.
Don't worry, I still own the Jayco 2300 and love it! Still running great after 30 years but she is getting really long in the tooth on the interior. Lots of great family time inside that coach!
Long time since I have been here! Still looks the same.
I have my Champion converted to burn Propane or Gas. The exhaust smell seems okay with burning propane. But is it a dangerious conversion?
sickboy774 wrote: I bought one of these Chinese jobs and wanted to know if anyone has been able to install a remote start. the unit i bought has a manual choke so that will have to be replaced. I don't plan to install it in my 5th wheel but i don't like getting out of a nice warm trailer to turn the thing off.
Yep.
How much info do you want? Is your unit electric start or will that need to be added?
TKMJ wrote: I gotta agree on running propane in a genset that is not designed for that fuel. I know several RV and aircraft guys who have done conversions and the exhaust really stings to high heaven. Almost a rotten egg smell Must be the corbon monoxide or other pollutants that are not good for your health. Far from the exhause generated from a properly made propane engine such as on a forklift.
I have been running two generators on propane for over four years. They were not initially designed for propane. Never a smell from the exhaust as you describe. IMHO, it is a perfect fuel. No storage problems, no gum, no water, no trash. Just clean ready to go fuel. Power from the generators appears to be equal to gasoline fueled.
Safe? What would be more dangerous in the system than gasoline and a leaky fuel bowl needle and seat? LPG is basically a closed system with no fumes. With the electric fuel line solenoid and vacuum actuated zero pressure regulator leakage of LPG is less of a risk than in a gasoline system.
The only down side is having to use multiple Bar-B-Q tanks for an extended camping stay.
At home the 300 gallon in-ground LPG tank connected to the Champion 13 HP engine negates having to refuel the gas tank for an extended power outage.
BTW - engine oil is exceptionally clean at recommended oil change intervals, not black like with gasoline. I have not sent any oil off for testing, but I strongly suspect changing oil at 50 hours is not needed with LPG.
Remember, I own and use two LPG fueled generators. This is first hand experience, not what somebody else has told me.
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