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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > Rubber Roof Repair ?

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COthersen

Virginia Beach, VA

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Posted: 11/15/05 08:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I winterized my 2001 Gulf Stream Conquest this weekend and noticed a bad thing on the roof before I out my cover on the camper for the winter. At the rear of the camper on the roof, where the rubber roof meets the aluminum siding that is curled up to the roof, there was a long hole about 3' in length and 1 inch wide. After looking into it I found the problem. At this seam, the roof has been leaking. All the wood under the seam is rotten and this allowed the piece of material that is screwed down to hold the aluminum siding and rubber roof in tack to come loose. All the screws cam out of the seal and opened up the seam.

Now, after reading on this site, it appears I must cut the rubber roof, peal it back, remove the rotten wood, replace with new wood, lay the rubber roof back on the new wood, and then what. I assume a glue must be applied under the old roof on the new wood. Then I think I must put a patch over the entire rubber roof area that I had to peal back. Then I must re-attach the trim on the top to hold the aluminum and rubber roof together and then seal it. Am I missing anything? I'm pretty good at fixing just about anything but I have never repaired a RV roof since I'm new to the camper world.

Now, any suggestions on the materials I should use?


2001 Conquest Gulf Stream - 32'
Virginia Beach

COthersen

Virginia Beach, VA

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Posted: 11/15/05 08:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Follow up:

ETERNABOND seams to be a good product. The area of rubber roof that will need a patch after I roll the rubber roof back down will be approx 4'x2'. Since the largest roll eternabond sells is 12" wide, do I just put 2 or 3 rows and let them overlap each other?

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 11/15/05 12:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

COtherson
only cut the rubber roof membrane as a last resort. Where the aluminum sides meet the rubber roof membrane there should be a seam/joint with screws that are covered/sealed. Remove the screw and staples ,if any, to roll or raise the rubber membrane to do the repairs. There are lots of holes installed in the roof for vents/jacks/etc at assy so adding another big area to patch/seal will only make water leak probs down the road or can make resale harder if someone crawls up there and takes a peak........JIM


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skipnchar

Topeka or somewhere else

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Posted: 11/15/05 09:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check that cover very carefully. That sounds like typical type of damage a cover can do by wearing on the surface, often at the point where the roof meets the side. Good luck / Skip


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COthersen

Virginia Beach, VA

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Posted: 11/15/05 01:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks, that sounds like a great idea. I went back and looked at the area, and I can un-screw the top roof trim which holds the end of the roof and the end of the sidding and also unscrew the gutter which holds down the roof on the edge. After doing this, it looks like I can just lift up on the rubber roof, fold it back and then start on removing the bad wood. The bad wood is only from the very end where the top trim is back to the first roof beam, approx 6" back. So a new roof deck about 6"x4' should do the work. Just in case I rip the rubber, I should have some on the side to fix it. How do I re-glue the old roof to the new wood? That is if the rubber does not rip. I might go ahead and buy some ETERNABOND tape to seal the roof joint anyway and also fix any holes that may appear. What thickness wood do I need? 1/2"

Thanks .........

Poppy & Nana

Upstate New York

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Posted: 11/15/05 09:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd check to see what the warranty is on the roof, before I started making any repairs.....this may be a know flaw with your model TT and may be taken care of by the mfgr..


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larryd

Nacogdoches,TX

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Posted: 11/15/05 09:50pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before you do anything, call MN Roofing & RV Specialties at 1-877-387-6511. Talk to Clayton. Or go to their web site
www.rvroofmn.com.

I repaired entire roof on my 92 MH last year using their product. No leaks since. Rapid Roof III...Excellent Product

GOOD LUCK


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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 11/15/05 02:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

COtherson
I'm not sure what thickness wood the manufactor used but if too thick it will stick up farther than the old creating a edge/cornor that will cut the membrane if stepped on. Does your trailer have a owners manual or roof membrane manufactor name for a web as to what type adhesive they recommend. The Gulf Stream dealer in your area may have that info. A brick/rock layers trowel works for reaching back under the membrane to spread the adhesive......JIM

porterbo

Mineral Wells, Texas USA

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Posted: 11/15/05 06:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Make sure that you use a special glue that prevents bubbling and gassing. It requires a special adhesive (dicor 901BA)I think is the best, you should be able to find it at most RV repair shops. You have the right idea in removing the gutter screws , just peel the roof back real slow and careful to prevent it tearing. Use your thumbs and roll it back just a bit at time.


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