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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Water heater mod. & Bathroom soap holder

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BillArf

NY and Florida

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Joined: 03/21/2005

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Posted: 12/15/05 10:59am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

spott wrote:

And that would be???


Depends on the brand/design of water heater. Was your original drain plug made of nylon or was it metal. IF it was a nylon one you may opt/should opt to go with a CPVC set-up not metal. Some say you can use lots of teflon on the metal threads and be ok but this is questionable. Research the boards here for mroe info.





Spott

SE Michigan

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Posted: 12/15/05 11:02am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK but why should someone opt for the cpvc. What is the problem with using metal (Brass)?

Thanks


Me - Kim - Spot
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Nevrdun

Smethport, PA

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Posted: 12/15/05 11:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

roadranger wrote:

spott wrote:

Based on someone else's PVC hot water heater drain idea (can't remember who it was) I added a solid brass ball valve, for a no tools required drain. Since I used a hose bib I can add a short section of hose and empty into a bucket so I don't make such a mess.


Great idea!
Unfortunately, my water heater has an annode rod for the plug assembly.
Can't replace that with a valve...


I agree, great idea since some of these drain plugs are somewhat difficult to get to. Also, I thought most drain valves had the annode rod as mine and my dads does. Apparently not...


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BirdSongPlace

San Diego County, CA

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Posted: 12/15/05 12:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a similar set-up in our bathroom. Ours is a wet bath with no storage other than the medicine cabinet. I added a little basket to hold the TP. When you get ready to shower you just remove the whole thing and reattach it when finished. It is attached with a couple of little suction cups. Same with the soap holder and toothbrush holder. They are attached with suction cups. I was able to add the wire over the shower thing to the bracket that holds the shower hose. I also added a suction cup to keep it from moving around while we are traveling. The trash can sets on a square of that rubber drawer liner stuff. It stays in place while we travel and is easily removed when we shower.



BillArf

NY and Florida

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Posted: 12/15/05 11:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

spott wrote:

OK but why should someone opt for the cpvc. What is the problem with using metal (Brass)?

Thanks


Well you would use CPVC versus PVC cause it handles higher heat.
If you had say a Atwood water heater with a nylon plug you per Atwood will damage the water heater by using a metal plug/metal fittings in place of the nylon plug. Using metal or metal gadgets there void your Atwood warranty also.. Something to do with the materials/design of their aluminum lined water heater liner and a chemical reaction with your metal plug.. Perhaps someone that is more knowledgeable can chime in and explain.

Butch50

Bentonville, AR

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Posted: 12/15/05 11:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It has to do with the dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion. This is the same reason outboards and I/O motors have sacrifical anodes on them. They are a softer metal and will disolve and keep the corrosion from attacking the base metals. They need to be replaced when they wear down or it will attack the base metal of the outdrives. I agree that this is not such a good idea unless you change it out to a non metal valve or use a coupler of PVC (or similar) between the two of them. This is also the reason they use a union between your hotwater tank and the feed lines before they were glass lined. Atwood does not line their tanks with glass as Surburban does. This is the reason Surburban uses a sacrifical anode in them and Atwood doesn't. In the Surburban they will over time develop fine hairline cracks in the glass and if they didn't have the anode rod it would start eating on the tank.

I would recommend emailing Atwood and ask them about the use of a brass valve. I agree that this is not such a good idea unless you change it out to a non metal valve

This is IMO

* This post was edited 12/15/05 11:33am by Butch50 *

filmer

USA, Mostly Western

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Posted: 12/15/05 01:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have to leave my anode rod in all the time as well so there is no place for a valve. I'd like to have one though.......


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D&SBarnes

San Antonio, Tx

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Posted: 12/15/05 02:25pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have another idea for those of you with wet baths. It occurred to me that having a wet floor was really the major set back to wet baths and the "dry" baths I found much too small to be an advantage.
After showers I use a sponge to dry the glass walls and get most of the water out, then I drop a cut to shape foam padded shower mat in the pan to provide a dry floor. It won't absorb any moisture, and has holes to breathe which lets things air out and dry. A solid rubber mat would work for a dry floor, but might promote "growth" underneath from lack of drying.
Using the bath after showers then presents less of an issue with either wet feet or dirty shower floor caused by shoes.

Another idea about the shower baskets using suction cups... You can remove them and haul them into the CG showers if need be, rather than have to unload the items. They don't however stay put as well on rougher rides, and may have to go into the sink over the road.
Dave


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Butch50

Bentonville, AR

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Posted: 12/15/05 05:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

D&SBarnes wrote:

I have another idea for those of you with wet baths. It occurred to me that having a wet floor was really the major set back to wet baths and the "dry" baths I found much too small to be an advantage.
After showers I use a sponge to dry the glass walls and get most of the water out, then I drop a cut to shape foam padded shower mat in the pan to provide a dry floor. It won't absorb any moisture, and has holes to breathe which lets things air out and dry. A solid rubber mat would work for a dry floor, but might promote "growth" underneath from lack of drying.
Using the bath after showers then presents less of an issue with either wet feet or dirty shower floor caused by shoes.

Another idea about the shower baskets using suction cups... You can remove them and haul them into the CG showers if need be, rather than have to unload the items. They don't however stay put as well on rougher rides, and may have to go into the sink over the road.
Dave


For the floor of your shower you might want to try Dri Dek. Alot of boaters use this product.


Butch
2011 F350 KR 4X4 CC LB SRW
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D&SBarnes

San Antonio, Tx

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Posted: 12/15/05 06:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dri Dek would do exactly the same thing, but the bathtub mat didn't cost more than a couple of bucks and the remainder of the mat was used to pad dishware to keep it in place and free from rattles. The actual floor area of the shower pan is pretty small.

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