Trying to set up WD with Reese Dual Cam (older unit)using square bars on a 2005 HD Silverado. The unhitched dimensions on the truck show the rear to be 2 3/8" higher than the front.
Should I be trying to get the truck front and rear equal height with the trailer hitched and the w/d bars snapped in place or should I try to maintain the 2 3/8" difference rear to front?
Are the 5 to 7 links between the snap up plates and the w/d bars the correct quantity with or without the clevis?
I have reviewed each sticky several times but continue to be confused. Is the "image not shown due to a preference setting" an indication that I need to change some preference on my computer system?
I would try to maintain the 2 3/8" difference between the front and rear but don't sweat the small stuff, the object is to not carry all of the weight on the rear. You might not be able to maintain it, you don't want the rear to drop and the front go up. You want both front and rear to drop some indicating that you are distributing the weight. If you are towing a light trailer you might have no trouble maintaining the difference, it might be tough if you are towing a heavyweight.
Don't count the clevis as a link.
I can't help you on the image question.
Mike
Mike
2004 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD 5.3 w/3.73
2005 Rockwood 8272s Reese Dualcam HP Prodigy
To show images, click on "My Forums" in the upper right of your screen. Then click on "My Preferences". You will be prompted to enter your password, then scroll down to ""show images as part of posts". Make sure there is a check in the box in front of that sentence. If not, put a check in that box. You should now be able to see photos that are a part of someones post. If you are on a dial up connection rather than cable or other high speed connection you may have slow page loading with the image box checked.
As far as the WD setup, you will not get the truck to settle evenly as the GM vehicles have a rubber bumper stop in the front which prevents the front from settling very much. I would settle for the front to be no higher than it was originally before hooking up the WD. The truck should not be "level" but in much the same attitude as it was before hooking up but your rear may be a bit lower. Check out this thread if you have not already done so.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD Visit our website here
Most instructions. Will tell you. the rear shouls sellte no more than an inch. The front should settle with in 1/2 inch of that. On my setup. The rear settles 1 inch. the front 1/2. It handles great.
BarneyS wrote: snip.........As far as the WD setup, you will not get the truck to settle evenly as the GM vehicles have a rubber bumper stop in the front which prevents the front from settling very much...snip....Barney
BarneyS is correct in respect to the GM Truck suspension. With the WD's engaged, ideally all you want to achieve is to have your front TV fender height back to the same height as "un-hitched". If you attempt to have the front TV fender height drop below the un-hitched height, you will be working against the front suspension stops.
BarneyS wrote: snip.........As far as the WD setup, you will not get the truck to settle evenly as the GM vehicles have a rubber bumper stop in the front which prevents the front from settling very much...snip....Barney
BarneyS is correct in respect to the GM Truck suspension. With the WD's engaged, ideally all you want to achieve is to have your front TV fender height back to the same height as "un-hitched". If you attempt to have the front TV fender height drop below the un-hitched height, you will be working against the front suspension stops.
Turk2500
Barney and Turk2500 have it right with the GM 3/4 ton NBS suspensions. The GM 3/4 and 1 tons react different than a 1/2 ton truck.
This is the front axle yellow bumper stop they are talking about. This is off my 3/4 ton NBS Suburban. See if your 2500HD has these. This is UN hitched
Now see here hitched, a full 1200# tongue and NO WD yet applied. There is very little "un squeeze" of the yellow bumper yet the front fender will rise but not go much lower.
And now WD engaged and the front end brought back to unhitched weight. The swell on the bottom of the yellow bumper looks just like unhitched as the weight is returned back to the front end like unhitched. And this stops prevents furhter downward movment.
If all you have is a tape measure to start with, like most of us, measure the front and rear fenders through the center of the axle, Like this.
Then adjust the WD to get this front number back, being within 1/8" may be as close as you can get it +-. If you drive around the block it will change by 1/8"...
Once you get the tape measure to work, ideally go to a truck scale and weigh each axle by itself with and without the WD bars engaged. Do a litte math and you will see if the front axle returned back to unhitched weight.
And yes the rear axle should be squatting some. Not knowing your tongue weight or truck bed loads I can't predict but ~ 1 1/2" squat on the rear is not a bad thing. Maybe ~1" on the HD PU.
The TT should be level or slightly nose down when done, May have to adjust the hitch head vertical height when all done on the hitch to get this. Truck will be at an angle with the axle weights correct. Again this is GM NBS suspension, not Ford or Dodge.
Hope this helps.
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
The directions for my draw tite WD hitch (same as reese) says that you never want the front to drop more than the rear, and that for 3/4 and 1 ton vehicles the front may stay at the original height or increase up to 1/2" and this is acceptable. Personally I'd like to see the front at the same height or a little lower than unloaded but it should not lower as much as the rear.
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