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Topic: Atwood Water Heater Won't Ignite

Posted By: fishlip on 09/25/06 08:54am

Overnight, our water heater went out (it's an Atwood G6A-8E). The water heater indicator over the range shows "on" and we have plenty of propane, however the water heater will not heat. Upon inspection outside, there is no sound coming from the heater. It's as if it were off. It just will not ignite.

Please give suggestions as how I can determine the problem and repair it. I am brand new to rv-ing.

Thanks!


Posted By: enblethen on 09/25/06 09:17am

The light for your DSI water heater should not be on after the ignition cycle.
If the light remains on, that is a trouble light. It indicates the the heater has failed.
Try checking connections on circuit board by removing four pin connector and clean contacts on board.
Next clean ground wire connection on the gas valve. There should be two wires connected together that goes to the gas valve coils (two) and then to ground.


Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow




Posted By: Don Don on 09/25/06 09:53am

Is the swithch on the blower in the on position?






Posted By: ScottnSherrie on 09/25/06 10:01am

Don Don wrote:

Is the swithch on the blower in the on position?

A blower on a water heater?


88 Gulf Stream 34' Sun Vista, Ford 460, Edelbrock Perfomer carb, Thorley headers
Ford F-250 crew cab 4X4, 6.0 turbo diesel
complete roof rebuild
daughter 19, son 16
US Army Desert Storm vets (both of us)
left: The Ol' Gal right: DW with White Lightnin'



Posted By: ejforwood on 09/25/06 10:33am

Had the same problem. Shut off the switch, Clean around the pilot, burner and flue. Sometimes just blowing on the area and then turning the switch back on will allow it to relight.


Jerry & Dottie
98 Bounder 34V, 99 F-53 Ford V10 chassis
06 Saturn VUE 4I



Posted By: Jeffe on 09/25/06 11:34am

Atwood Trouble Shooting Guide


Two of the simplest things:

Clean as suggested above and check your Thermal Cutoff Fuse with a tester. Both are quick easy fixes.


2002 Winnebago Journey DL - 39QD
330 Cat with 6 Speed Allison
Toad: 2006 Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 Hemi



Posted By: paulm999 on 09/25/06 01:49pm

Every once in awhile it will be so damp from rain (or from washing the rv)that mine won't fire up until it drys off. I have no idea if it's the board or the wires. I used to go outside with a hair dryer to speed things up. An rv appliance genius gave me this advice when it won't start: On the outside, disconnect one of the two T-Stat wires (mine are brown). Inside, turn the switch on and leave it on. Outside, place a lit lighter (with a long nozzle) into the burner. Then reconnect the T-Stat wire. You then should have ignition....so keep you face away from the burner.






Posted By: sig999 on 09/25/06 07:51pm

I have the same model water heater on my Bounder.
This past summer it failed when I was camping, and by luck a mobile repairman was at the TT beside me, so I asked him if he might take a look at it for me when he was done with my neighbor.
I explained to him that it was just doing nothing, it had been trying to ignite, but kept shutting down and finally would do nothing.
He substituted the power board, and I haven't had a problem with it since.
Also had a problem with one of my Atwood furnaces, and used the same substitution method with that and now I have two furnaces again and the water heater.
I was very surprised, his price was very reasonable.

Paul and Harriett
Retired US Army
2000 Fleetwood Bounder 36S Ford V10
97 Dodge Grand Caravan
Me the wife and dog,
somewhere out there.


2000 Bounder 36S, Ford V10
Toad: 97 Grand Caravan
Me the wife and dog,somewhere out there.


Posted By: jenks60 on 09/25/06 08:04pm

Mine [atwood WH] has quit on us twice. The first time, it was the IGNITER needed cleaning, the second time it was an open coil on the gas valve. The gas valve is not cheap. Nor is the labor to install it. OOPS! Make that 3 times. I had to replace the board. $170 from Atwood, but $90 from Dinosaur boards. Good luck.

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


jenks, fulltiming with the DW.
92 Southwind P3(32) 33 ft.
99 Saturn SL2
Rallys attended-TX 2, LA 2, MS 1, AL 2
MA. 1 drop in for visit.



Posted By: r1chy on 08/06/07 07:25pm

I had the same problem and found the same solution as listed below. At the time it happened to me I found a RV dealer who stocked Atwood parts, including a "Therm Cut-off Kit". Within the kit were two "MicroTemp G4A01, KMGACS TF093C" thermal cut off devices with the correct connectors on each end. At the time I was very willing to pay the $17 for the Kit to get hot water again.

Since I'm currently using the last of the two, I plan to make my own by purchasing the parts and putting the correct connectors on each end. Point well made about being careful if soldering the connectors, so I plan to crimp them on. If anyone is interested I will advise the supplier when I find them.

At one point I talked to a friend of the family who is an small RV dealer and related my story to him. He offered up that "in a pinch" you can by-pass the thermal device and direct connect, but obviously at some risk of fire. Haven't had reason to use this suggestion, and hope not to. But if I do hten you will find me out in the rain, with a flash lite in hand, monitoring the water heater with the thermal device bypassed rather then in side explaining to the queen why we don't have hot water.

I'm also left to wonder how many electric boards are replaced when it was this simple $1 part, hummmmmmmm.

R1chy

dhj1974 wrote:

I just had this happen to my Atwood 10 gallons gas/electric combo. No gas heat. The light came on when I turned on the switch and I did not get a gas failed light. The electric worked OK. So I did a little troubleshooting and found that positive lead from the switch goes thru the "Thermal Cutoff" device. I used a bug lamp and it lit on one side of the switch and not the other = open switch. It looks like a diode or resistor inside a clear insulation. I read the numbers on it which read: "Microtemp" "KKGAFH" "G4A01 TF093C". A little research found that this is a 93 degree C thermal switch - like you'd find in a hair dryer to open up if it gets too hot. 93 C = 200 degrees F.

I did a little checking and you can get an equivalent from NTE semiconductor. They make an equivalent with the product number "NTE 8090". I found them a few different places but finally ordered a couple from Amazon.com of all places for a little over a buck each.

Please consider if you use one of these and decide to solder the leads, to be sure and use some kind of heat sink, like a pair of big pliers on the lead between the device and the solder joint.


* This post was edited 12/16/07 11:17am by r1chy *


Fleetwood Revolution - 2002


Posted By: nbounder on 08/06/07 09:16pm

First - RTFM (read the factory manual)
second - try the steps noted at http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Service/Trouble/electric.cfm
third - call them at (574) 264-2131. They will be more than happy to help.
If you need an ignitor board, get it from RG Products - they are the mfr and sell at a good price. They also will be glad to help ID the problem.
Joe


Nbounder
KG7DKF


Posted By: dhj1974 on 10/07/06 09:04pm

fishlip wrote:

Overnight, our water heater went out (it's an Atwood G6A-8E). The water heater indicator over the range shows "on" and we have plenty of propane, however the water heater will not heat. Upon inspection outside, there is no sound coming from the heater. It's as if it were off. It just will not ignite.

Please give suggestions as how I can determine the problem and repair it. I am brand new to rv-ing.

Thanks!

I just had this happen to my Atwood 10 gallons gas/electric combo. No gas heat. The light came on when I turned on the switch and I did not get a gas failed light. The electric worked OK. So I did a little troubleshooting and found that positive lead from the switch goes thru the "Thermal Cutoff" device. I used a bug lamp and it lit on one side of the switch and not the other = open switch. It looks like a diode or resistor inside a clear insulation. I read the numbers on it which read: "Microtemp" "KKGAFH" "G4A01 TF093C". A little research found that this is a 93 degree C thermal switch - like you'd find in a hair dryer to open up if it gets too hot. 93 C = 200 degrees F.

I did a little checking and you can get an equivalent from NTE semiconductor. They make an equivalent with the product number "NTE 8090". I found them a few different places but finally ordered a couple from Amazon.com of all places for a little over a buck each.

Please consider if you use one of these and decide to solder the leads, to be sure and use some kind of heat sink, like a pair of big pliers on the lead between the device and the solder joint.


D.Johnson
Nipomo, CA
2001 Itasca Suncruiser
1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Toad
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Toad



Posted By: The Falcon on 10/07/06 11:40pm

The red light indicates the heater is not on. Try turning the switch off then on a few times. Wait a few moments after you turn it on each time and listen for the heater to turn on. The light should turn off when the heater starts and is operating. Try this a few times. This may get it going.


Precision Guesses
Joe&Jan 2003 Hurricane 30Q V10
2004 Jeep Liberty, Blue Ox, Brake Buddy


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