I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.
She picked the spot, and I got to work -
I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -
I added one in the main area -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -
Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -
* This post was last edited 10/18/12 09:02pm by an administrator/moderator *
2006 Ford F-250 6.0 PSD 3.73 LSD
2013 Winnebago Lite Five 30FWRES
16K Reese Slider, Tow Command, Magellan GPS
gig'em Aggies
Chuck and Jan
2007 Rockwood 8315SS
2007 Denali (380hp 417 lb-ft) 6 spd
1974 MGB-GT
1975 MGB Roadster
Vanda and Dave Ludwig (Vandave) Spoiled King Charles Spaniel, Ultra spoiled Cock-a-phoo, '12 2500HD, 4WD, CC, SB, 6.0, 4.10, 30U Arctic Fox, Equalizer.
2008 Itasca Sunova 35J Class A
1997 TJ Sahara, hard and soft tops and AC
Held together via Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar and stopped by US Gear Unified Brake system.
This is one of my small mods, I hope this comes out first time doing picturesHERE IT looks crooked but it's just an optical illusion. I mounted this in the closet, and as you can see used a Inside antenna w/booster...no hole in the TT.
(never mind, got one off EBAY for $13 with shipping)
* This post was edited 07/02/07 02:18pm by MarionMedic *
MarionMedic wrote:
Where did you get your Am/FM stereo enclosure under the cabinet????
(never mind, got one off EBAY for $13 with shipping)
Where did you get your Am/FM stereo enclosure under the cabinet????
(never mind, got one off EBAY for $13 with shipping)
Bass Pro Shops has them in the marine department for a reasonable price.
Rich
2008 Fleetwood Fiesta
Tampa, FL
2Rad4U wrote:
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -
2Rad- I've always been a little leery about nailing or screwing into the thin walls of my TT. How did you attach the soap dispenser and toothbrush holders. Did you screw them in or some sort of 3M tape?
Cool mods!
Thanks
A Family
A Boxer Dog
A Truck, a Trailer, a Hitch, a Brake Controller
I used short screws and the tightened up nicely. Just got back from a 5 nighter and everyone enjoyed the additions, including me!
Edited to correct spelling...
* This post was edited 07/04/07 06:59pm by 2Rad4U *
CB
Some of our easy mods are
Hooks inside our cabinets for simple things like keys and small flashlights.
Hooks of different sizes but tastefully done (purchased from Home Depot) brushed brass with 3M tape. We use them to hang our swifter out of the way. Our dogs leash, and light jackets.
We have battery operated lights that you push once located in each storage area outside the trailer (3) and in some of our cabinets. I also have one mounted in the kitchen for easy light just in case the TT has not had the electric hooked up.
I know this sounds crazy but thinking about installing three televisions in our TT (only 27') one for my daughters bunk who likes to play games late at night or just when it rains...one in the dinette area in place of the storage cabinet for our 19" and one by our bed.
Sir Buffalo!
2006 Zinger by Crossroads 27BHS
2010 Toyota Tundra Crew Max 5.7
2007 Four Winds 29Q-GS (Formerly Springdale M195-FLL)
2003 4x2 XLT SuperCrew 5.4
Myself, the wife, Daphne (Yellow Lab), Jake (Rottweiller), Maggie (Beagle) and Alexandra (baby girl)
Les
2000 Ford F-250SD, XLT, 4X4 Off Road, SuperCab
w/ 6.8L (415 C.I.) V-10/3:73LS/4R100
Banks Power Pack w/Trans Command & OttoMind
Sold Trailer - not RV'ing at this point in time
HUNTER THERMOSTAT INSTALL
HOME MADE WHEEL CHOCKS
Toilet rinse valve
6" PVC sewr carrier
Satellite and tote
Bike Rack
PVC Bunk Ladder
Genset on frnt carrier carrier 10' Porta Bote on roof
07'Duramax dually,12'Open Range 399BHS
Hawkshead TPMS,Hensley BD3,Killerbee exhaust brake
Blue Ox Bedsaver,air bags w/compressor
Arvika pin box bike rack,Bak Flip tonneau cover
5500 Onan LP,EMS-HW-50
14'Porta Bote w/8.0 Nissan
Vu Cube 2000,Splendide 2000S
2007 Rockwood 8317 Signature Series
It's "S'more Fun" now that we are Rving it!
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
'03 Silverado 1500, Ext.Cab, Z71 Off Road, 4X4, 5.3L, 3.73 rear, AutoMeter Trans Temp Gauge, Putnam Class IV
'11 Jayco JayFeather Select 242, Reese WD Hitch, HP Dual Cam Sway, 800# Trunnion Bars, Atwood 3500# HD Power Tongue Jack
Roman11 wrote:
2Rad- I've always been a little leery about nailing or screwing into the thin walls of my TT. How did you attach the soap dispenser and toothbrush holders. Did you screw them in or some sort of 3M tape?
Cool mods!
Thanks
2Rad- I've always been a little leery about nailing or screwing into the thin walls of my TT. How did you attach the soap dispenser and toothbrush holders. Did you screw them in or some sort of 3M tape?
Cool mods!
Thanks
We just picked our new TT up this weekend and I have been making mods to make it feel more like home. DH is leery about nailing into the walls but he works for a 3m tape distributor and we get all kinds of heavy duty tape and velco. Some of this stuff he brings home is very strong. We have told our DS that if he does not sit still at the table we were going to velco him to the chair, well one time DH did and he could not get up
So the mods I made I used velco or tape, time will tell if it holds after traveling and use.
Mike and Michelle and 2 kids
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4
2008 Rockwood 8313SS
Equalizer hitch with Envoy brake controller
Go Camping wrote:
I bet I know....... do they use it to flush it out before leaving the site or dump station......my friend did the same....
I bet I know....... do they use it to flush it out before leaving the site or dump station......my friend did the same....
Interesting, they stick this sprayer into the toilet to "flush it (I assume black tank) out" and then re-attach it to its' holder which is right next to the toilet. How sanitary. To think that the next person to use the toilet will be in close proximity to the sprayer and hose that was just used to flush out a holding tank. Wonder if they ever think about washing down the hose and sprayer with any disinfectant or even a wet one. Or do they just leave it as was used.
Besides the chemicals, etc. I actually take the hose and flush the tank. I know of others that do the same all the time but I just do it once in a while. But the fanatic he is he installed something like this person did to make in easier. I love it. If I had the same set up I would do the same. But not reading your message correctly... I guess now I know what you mean..... if your not a good shot you could be touching....ahhh do not even want to think about it.
I guess you could install it a bit higher. Right now I use the shower head that extends.
an
key holder
sewer hose holder
gutter extensions
05 sunline 267 sr
2001 F-250 lariat 4x4 supercab shortbed automatic V-10 4:30LS
1200# drawtite hitch, friction sway control,prodigy
Android(my drug of choice)
Howard, USN Ret
2000 Ford Excursion,V10, Limited
2003 Terry 27H. Super Slide
mehwwh wrote:
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
It serves 3 purposes you can rinse down the bowl when stuff sticks to the sides. You can also open the flapper and rinse below the toilet. Finally I can diconnect the hose spray nozzle and attach the toilet wand to rinse out the black tank. No more dragging in the hose from outside. Did I say I also use the hose sprayer when cleaning the tub.
This is not an original idea Thetford makes a toilet with an optional sprayer Thetford toilet with sprayer
mehwwh wrote:
Interesting, they stick this sprayer into the toilet to "flush it (I assume black tank) out" and then re-attach it to its' holder which is right next to the toilet. How sanitary. To think that the next person to use the toilet will be in close proximity to the sprayer and hose that was just used to flush out a holding tank. Wonder if they ever think about washing down the hose and sprayer with any disinfectant or even a wet one. Or do they just leave it as was used.
Go Camping wrote:
I bet I know....... do they use it to flush it out before leaving the site or dump station......my friend did the same....
I bet I know....... do they use it to flush it out before leaving the site or dump station......my friend did the same....
Interesting, they stick this sprayer into the toilet to "flush it (I assume black tank) out" and then re-attach it to its' holder which is right next to the toilet. How sanitary. To think that the next person to use the toilet will be in close proximity to the sprayer and hose that was just used to flush out a holding tank. Wonder if they ever think about washing down the hose and sprayer with any disinfectant or even a wet one. Or do they just leave it as was used.
No, I don't actually have to stick the sprayer into the toilet hole to spray it down. That is what I have a wand for. I can spray below the flapper by simply aiming into the whole from at least 1'-2' away.
campin' nut wrote:
Hey Lantley I don't suppose you would like to give up some dimensions and supply list for that bike rack? That is one of the best ones I've seen good job.
Check Out Bike RackHey Lantley I don't suppose you would like to give up some dimensions and supply list for that bike rack? That is one of the best ones I've seen good job.
I purchased the rack. It works great. Bikes are always in view. Easy to load bikes. Bikes do not block headlights.
Lantley wrote:
It serves 3 purposes you can rinse down the bowl when stuff sticks to the sides. You can also open the flapper and rinse below the toilet. Finally I can diconnect the hose spray nozzle and attach the toilet wand to rinse out the black tank. No more dragging in the hose from outside. Did I say I also use the hose sprayer when cleaning the tub.
This is not an original idea Thetford makes a toilet with an optional sprayer Thetford toilet with sprayer
mehwwh wrote:
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
It serves 3 purposes you can rinse down the bowl when stuff sticks to the sides. You can also open the flapper and rinse below the toilet. Finally I can diconnect the hose spray nozzle and attach the toilet wand to rinse out the black tank. No more dragging in the hose from outside. Did I say I also use the hose sprayer when cleaning the tub.
This is not an original idea Thetford makes a toilet with an optional sprayer Thetford toilet with sprayer
As I said "Forgive my ignorance...."
Or maybe this could become a Sticky???? (be pinned to top)
I know I'm very visual when trying to understand something.
And I can't be the only one looking for mods and ideas.
I'm going outside right now to get some pics to post.
Gimme a minute.
(I'm no photographer and my little camera sux)
Excuse the junk and tools, I'm working on some mods.
I bought some plastic cupholders and mounted to wall and stove cabinet beside couch.
Used screws.
EDIT - Please excuse the use of my "Album".
The pics are my property, and I do not wish to give up rights to them.
You can see them HERE.....
http://s161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/marionmedic/RV/
I mounted a 12 volt 2 speed fan over table area.
It's steel caged and bladed. Came out of 18 wheeler.
It blows like a hurricane.
I mounted fan over bed in front bedroom.
12volt $10 walmart special. Oscillates.
(this is where light cover is missing) Wired into light power.
I mounted fan over upper bunk in rear.
12volt $10 walmart special. Oscillates.
Will wire into light power.
Stereo speakers over table area under TV cabinet.
Yes, Stereo speakers from my old stereo. They sound great.
I'm mounting an AM/FM/Cassete/Weatherband (cause I already have it) under TV cabinet. Hooks right into antenna already on trailer.
It's a heavy duty model that usually goes in 18 wheelers.
Might change to a CD model in future.
I'm using this to enclose/mount it.
Got this fron RV center. Is available at CW.
I like to cook, and this solves drawer clutter.
Wife replaced missing curtain. (if it ever had one) This looks nicer.
Installed MagLight clip holders beside entry door.
* This post was edited 04/27/08 08:21am by MarionMedic *
Put shelves in 2 of the 3 closets Attached quarter round wood to the sides of the closets with industrial strength velcro and bought the wire shelving
Installed a 2 foot counter extension that will hold 200 pounds and is level with the counter. It folds flat against the counter when not in use.
Bike Rack
[img]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Lantley/RV%
Lantley, did you purchase this bike rack or create?
Should have read all the posts, Thanks.
The toilet sprayer is on a lot of high end motorhomes, $350,000 range & up. Very good idea.
* This post was edited 07/12/07 02:57am by Bigburd *
2012 Ford F-450 CCDRW 6.7L
2013 Heartland Cyclone 300C
Bigburd wrote:
I purchased rack. Yes read entire thread
Lantley wrote:
Bike Rack
[img]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Lantley/RV%
Lantley, did you purchase this bike rack or create?
Should have read all the posts, Thanks.
The toilet sprayer is on a lot of high end motorhomes, $350,000 range & up. Very good idea.
Bike Rack
[img]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x69/Lantley/RV%
Lantley, did you purchase this bike rack or create?
Should have read all the posts, Thanks.
The toilet sprayer is on a lot of high end motorhomes, $350,000 range & up. Very good idea.
I purchased rack. Yes read entire thread
Here it is attached to the side of the radio housing . I used a small piece of velcro.
I bought a 6 inch cable off of ebay or a couple of bucks -
2Rad4U wrote:
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I'm with you on that one. You can either leave it virgin for the next guy or make it as comfortable as you can for yourself. If you leave the stuff there when you sell it, the next guy may not even notice it as an add-on. The only thing I want to leave really nice for the next guy is the wall area near the stove. I need to get some covers to keep off cooking oils and grease from splashing onto the wallpaper.
Unless tomorrow has been promised to you, you better get busy today.
Your Old Dog wrote:
I'm with you on that one. You can either leave it virgin for the next guy or make it as comfortable as you can for yourself. If you leave the stuff there when you sell it, the next guy may not even notice it as an add-on. The only thing I want to leave really nice for the next guy is the wall area near the stove. I need to get some covers to keep off cooking oils and grease from splashing onto the wallpaper.
2Rad4U wrote:
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I'm with you on that one. You can either leave it virgin for the next guy or make it as comfortable as you can for yourself. If you leave the stuff there when you sell it, the next guy may not even notice it as an add-on. The only thing I want to leave really nice for the next guy is the wall area near the stove. I need to get some covers to keep off cooking oils and grease from splashing onto the wallpaper.
I've been thinking of doing the same thing. Does Lowes or HD sell any of that thin clear plastic material that could be screwed to the walls?
Painted and ready to go -
When I get time I'm going to add a drawer front to it to really clean it up.
I looked up into the compartment and realized I had enough room for the dustpan. One cup hook later -
Mag-Lite hooks put the flashlight within easy reach -
I've been wanting a key holder for awhile and found this one that matches well -
A couple of hooks for my camping hats -
I love my outdoor cook center. I love it more with a new paper towel holder -
It folds out of the way for travel -
A couple of hooks in the side storage compartment for the awning rod, my hot dog holder and the staqbilizer wrench -
But I agree, mods are great. I am not of the opinion they all need to look professional. I guess if you have an expensive rig and it is big enough to spend hours on end in and or you use it as a seasonal home it is nice to keep things looking at its best... but I am for functional. But now a days it is easy to buy things or even make things that just look awesome.
Ken
Your Old Dog wrote:
I'm with you on that one. You can either leave it virgin for the next guy or make it as comfortable as you can for yourself. If you leave the stuff there when you sell it, the next guy may not even notice it as an add-on. The only thing I want to leave really nice for the next guy is the wall area near the stove. I need to get some covers to keep off cooking oils and grease from splashing onto the wallpaper.
2Rad4U wrote:
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner.....
I'm with you on that one. You can either leave it virgin for the next guy or make it as comfortable as you can for yourself. If you leave the stuff there when you sell it, the next guy may not even notice it as an add-on. The only thing I want to leave really nice for the next guy is the wall area near the stove. I need to get some covers to keep off cooking oils and grease from splashing onto the wallpaper.
Yes, and Lowe's will even cut it to size for you.
Just measure how tall and wide you want it to be.
Drill holes where screws will go befor installing to prevent cracking.
BTW - It's called plexiglass.
1995 Ram CTD 2500 SLT, 5 Speed, 4X4, 3.54, ATS manifold. B-D 4" Exhaust Brake, 4" Exhaust, Mach 3 EDM's, 191 DV's, Street “O” plate, 215 pump, 3K GSK, Isspro EV. Boost, EGT, gauge set, 502Hp Dt 8/2007 5th wheel mods
2001 24' 5Th wheel Cougar single slider
.jpg)
rondeb wrote:
Below are 2 of my favorites
Put shelves in 2 of the 3 closets Attached quarter round wood to the sides of the closets with industrial strength velcro and bought the wire shelving
Installed a 2 foot counter extension that will hold 200 pounds and is level with the counter. It folds flat against the counter when not in use.
Below are 2 of my favorites
Put shelves in 2 of the 3 closets Attached quarter round wood to the sides of the closets with industrial strength velcro and bought the wire shelving
Installed a 2 foot counter extension that will hold 200 pounds and is level with the counter. It folds flat against the counter when not in use.
Now this is one that myself and the wife will do right away in the bathroom closets,she packs the kids clothes in a canvas hanging shelf and by the time we get to where were going the clothes are on the floor and she also uses a bin in the bathroom on the floor and the kids are always banging it with the bathroom door great idea.
2002 FORD EXCURSION LIMITED 6.8L V10
2006 SUNSET CREEK 279 RB SLIDE OUT
KIPOR KGE 3000 Ti DIGITAL GENERATOR
Three beautiful women my wife and 2 daughters.
GO TAMPA BAY BUC'S
The Braeburn unit has battery powered relays so you can run your 12v heat and AC units.
R. Brett Gilbert Jenks, OK
2005 Fleetwood 27' Wilderness Limited
2005 Ford F-250 6.0L PSD Crew Cab
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
Lamar and Debbie
2003 F250 SuperCrew 7.3 PSD
Mountaineer by Montana
lamarfoster@adelphia.net
Can't wait to fulltime!!
Hope this helps.
Lamar
The first thing I did was add this 25 gallon tank under the dinette seat. It is plumbed so it fills and drains with the main 41 gallon tank.
I then added this Shurflow water pump to pump water directly into the main tank. This was a test run so you can see some of the plumbing.
Here I am pumping water from the tanks in the truck into the TT water tank. The hose just screws onto the pump and is stored on top of the battery.
This gives us close to 100 gallons and more if I want to bring along the four extra 5-gallon jugs.
* This post was edited 07/15/07 10:13pm by Rubiranch *
1. Hooks on the bunk. I'm thinking about installing more of these, they are so useful!
2. Paper towel holder. Really unoriginal, but perhaps the most used.
3. Easy clean backsplash. We bought three pieces of plastic backsplash and glued it up. Now, I just spritz and wipe when I'm done cooking.
4. Sliding drawer tubs. I lost a lot of cabinet space with these, but the space that is left is much more useable. I pull out these tubs, take them inside and load up with food before we haul out.
5. Plastic dresser drawers. I leave our camping clothes right in the trailer. Wash, fold and return clothes to the trailer when we get home.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stpauligirlmn
Can't figure out how to post the pictures... How did everybody do that? I guess you'll have to cut and paste the address.
LOVE the fold down table posted above. I think I'll steal that idea!
stpauligirlmn wrote:
Can't figure out how to post the pictures... How did everybody do that?
Can't figure out how to post the pictures... How did everybody do that?
For online forums like this one, you have to bookend the web address you have the picture hosted at, with image tags.
This is an image tag added to a web hosted picture. [*IMG*]web address here[*/IMG*] The asterisk have been added so the tag doesn't become "invisible", and you can still see it. Remove the asterisk to when you actually post a picture.
If you're still a tad confused, just click on the quote button for this post and you'll see a picture (your backsplash picture) properly formatted for posting.
Stewart
2000 7.3L PSD Excursion 4x4
- AFE Stage 2, MBRP 4", DP Tuner F5 chip, B & V code spring upgrade, Bilsteins & Hellwig rear sway.
1999 5.4L SVT Lightning
- Tons of mods. It's my really fast work truck!
2007 26FK Wildwood by Forest River
I was able to adjust my preferences, so I can see the pictures now. I read a bit on how to insert pictures, and it's simply too complicated for me. I only have 7 years of higher education.
Stewart
Mod Ideas
* This post was edited 07/16/07 05:51am by Sportsman2505qss *
2002 KZ Sportsmen 2505qss bought in 2001 1999F-150
Gamble Rogers
.jpg)
I must say, That is nice!
Mike
* This post was edited 07/16/07 07:00pm by an administrator/moderator *
2006 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z-71 5.3L
Firestone Ride-Rite Air Springs
2005 Jayco ZX24-E Toy Hauler
Prodigy P2 Brake Control
15K Putnam Class V Receiver
10K Equal-i-zer WD
Toy Hauler
I attached the panels with commercial grade Velcro, locating 2" long strips at required intervals. I used 3/32" tinted Plexiglas, but would recommend at least 1/8". The panels are mounted on the outside of the screen door making it a little easier to keep clean.
Turk2500
02 Chevy, 2500HD/4x4, 6.0L/4:10, GVWR 9,200lbs., GCWR 16,000lbs.
05 Jayco Eagle, 278FBS, GVWR 9,000lbs.
TV/TT loaded: 14,700lbs.
Loaded Tongue Weight: 1,250lbs.
Loaded TT weight: 8,400
Putnam XDR Class V, Reese HP Dual Cam.
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
2003 Four Winds 27BG-F
1997 Suburban C1500 w/5.7L
with upgraded rear suspension, oil cooler, trans cooler, and 3.73 gears.
Kelsey Brake Controller
Reese Weight Distributing System
Reese Dual Cam Sway Control
.jpg)
I'm going to review some of these plastic/plexiglass screen door mods. We only have three small windows in our very small TT (13'). I'd like to keep the light of the open door, without losing our heat/air.
(also, I smoke - which I will vehemently deny if you tell anybody. I sit outside the TT and shut the door before I light up. Don't want that nasty smoke going in my pretty TT!)
stpauligirlmn wrote:
... and how did you know my name was Barb?
... and how did you know my name was Barb?
It was in your profile.
Mike
* This post was edited 07/17/07 05:59am by an administrator/moderator *
stpauligirlmn wrote:
thought I'd give it a try ... here is a shot of my dresser drawer mods.
thought I'd give it a try ... here is a shot of my dresser drawer mods.
stpauligirlmn wrote:
sigh.
sigh.
stpauligirlmn, you did good! You have the right idea, but you used the wrong web address between the image tags. The web address you used is the flickr web page, not the actual address the photo is located.
Here's the web address you put image tags around...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stpauligirlmn/811478574/
That leads to a flickr page displaying your photo, but not the actual web address OF the photo.
Here is the actual photo web address
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1369/811478574_33818cdb40.jpg?v=0
To find and copy the URL of photo's on the 'net, with the cursor over the pic, just right click your mouse, then choose "properties", then copy the Address (URL).
I prefer and use Photobucket.com It's much more user friendly in that it provides the proper URL for you. It gives you the URL needed to post pictures, all you have to do is click it and it auto copies for you.
Stewart
Yes!!
stpauligirlmn wrote:
OOOOOHHHH! I get it! Third time's a charm. Here's a photo of my cupboard slides:
Yes!!
OOOOOHHHH! I get it! Third time's a charm. Here's a photo of my cupboard slides:
Yes!!
See? It's really easy once you understand the principle.
Good job!
Stewart
Good job posting your cool mod pics. Now that you've got the hang of it, you'll be able to post more.
Your cupboard slides are great. Makes it easy to get to things. That is cool!!
Mike
PS...Below, not one of my most favorite mods, but I think my latest is COOL.
2Rad4U wrote:
I love my outdoor cook center. I love it more with a new paper towel holder -
I love my outdoor cook center. I love it more with a new paper towel holder -
I have the same outdoor cook center. Thanks for the idea!
I just love working on my TT.
There's so many possibilities and modifications to make it "MINE".
Let's keep sharing those ideas!!!!!!!!
milzat wrote:
It was in your profile.
Mike
stpauligirlmn wrote:
... and how did you know my name was Barb?
... and how did you know my name was Barb?
It was in your profile.
Mike
Short off-topic post........
OMG!!!!!!
She actually took it off her profile. How sad.
I'm sorry, but are we that bad nowadays that she had to be afraid to tell her name???
That's just sad. What's our world come to.
My name's Don Larson everybody. I'm friendly and outgoing, and I'm not gonna let the lowlifes of society change that.
I prefer my world the way I grew up in it.
Installed a Flat Panel in our Bedroom
It has a built in DVD so that saved space and kept wires to a minimum. This is great for laying in bed and watching a movie, and also keeps the walk-around space to a minimum.
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
* This post was edited 07/18/07 06:00am by an administrator/moderator *
Every Miles A Memory
Photo's of our Travels
When we realize our insignificance in this world,
it some how relieves the pressures from society to succeed
- Cindy Bonish
4 AMG 6-volt batteries mounted to the A-Frame of the TT
2000 watt inverter in the pass thru compartment
3 solar panels on the roof and you can see our Turbo-Maxx fan which is a must!!
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
I find your website very interesting.
Happy trails,
Mike
Mike
I'll make sure to keep checking back to see if anyone has added anything.
Thanks for the kudo's on the site
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.comwww.everymilesamemory.com
* This post was edited 04/05/12 09:15am by everymilesamemory *
We had a receiver hitch installed on the back of the Sunline TT
General RV in Michigan tied it into the frame rails and upped the rear towing/hauling capacity to 500lbs.
Then I custom made a rack that includes a basket for hoses, the camp mat, and the BBQ Grill. This rack also holds the 400 4-Stroke that is fantastic on fuel mileage and really gets us into some areas we might never see without it.
Here's a picture of what it looks like all put togetherPat
www.everymilesamemory.com
* This post was edited 07/18/07 06:01am by an administrator/moderator *
thinking about some of these mods y'all have posted mainly the mag-light holder
great ideas
Buzzy & Lynn
Jarred(18)
Dixie(The Black Lab)
2007 Palomino Puma 29FQS
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab, Long Bed, CTD, Auto
camping pictures
The L.E.D. replacement is just as bright, but never burns out, and uses a quarter of the power from your batteries.
I used to hate when ever I needed the light, it seemed the bulb was burnt out. I've now had one of the L.E.D. bulbs in our Mag-Lite for over a year, with daily use and 6 full months on the road, and havent had to replace the batteries or the bulb.
Hope that helps
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
Nice mods, Where did you get to "Bracket" to mount the TV in the corner ? Maybe I'll mount one in my Travel trailer bedroom like you did.
Thanks,
Sunline1
Very nice mods everymilesamemory. I've resisted putting up a DVD or TV, as we only get to camp on weekends (sometimes a little longer). I do have a portable DVD player my kids gave me, but I haven't used it in the camper yet. Still, when it's raining, it would be nice to have that mounted.
Lantley wrote:
It serves 3 purposes you can rinse down the bowl when stuff sticks to the sides. You can also open the flapper and rinse below the toilet. Finally I can diconnect the hose spray nozzle and attach the toilet wand to rinse out the black tank. No more dragging in the hose from outside. Did I say I also use the hose sprayer when cleaning the tub.
This is not an original idea Thetford makes a toilet with an optional sprayer Thetford toilet with sprayer
mehwwh wrote:
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
To: Lantley
Forgive my ignorance but, what is the purpose of the "toilet rinse"? I've never seen one for a residential toilet so don't know why one would be needed for an RV.
It serves 3 purposes you can rinse down the bowl when stuff sticks to the sides. You can also open the flapper and rinse below the toilet. Finally I can diconnect the hose spray nozzle and attach the toilet wand to rinse out the black tank. No more dragging in the hose from outside. Did I say I also use the hose sprayer when cleaning the tub.
This is not an original idea Thetford makes a toilet with an optional sprayer Thetford toilet with sprayer
And I thought it was a Hillbilly Bidet!
everymilesamemory wrote:
Off the topic, but for all those that carry a Mag-Lite, you might want to check into the L.E.D. bulb as a replacement for the standard one.
The L.E.D. replacement is just as bright, but never burns out, and uses a quarter of the power from your batteries.
I used to hate when ever I needed the light, it seemed the bulb was burnt out. I've now had one of the L.E.D. bulbs in our Mag-Lite for over a year, with daily use and 6 full months on the road, and havent had to replace the batteries or the bulb.
Hope that helps
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
Off the topic, but for all those that carry a Mag-Lite, you might want to check into the L.E.D. bulb as a replacement for the standard one.
The L.E.D. replacement is just as bright, but never burns out, and uses a quarter of the power from your batteries.
I used to hate when ever I needed the light, it seemed the bulb was burnt out. I've now had one of the L.E.D. bulbs in our Mag-Lite for over a year, with daily use and 6 full months on the road, and havent had to replace the batteries or the bulb.
Hope that helps
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
Nice set-up with your TV and TT and love the site you guys have again nice work.
BEFORE
AFTER
* This post was edited 07/23/07 10:27am by an administrator/moderator *
stpauligirlmn wrote:
MarionMedic, I notice that you checked my profile to see if my name was still there....
Very nice mods everymilesamemory. I've resisted putting up a DVD or TV, as we only get to camp on weekends (sometimes a little longer). I do have a portable DVD player my kids gave me, but I haven't used it in the camper yet. Still, when it's raining, it would be nice to have that mounted.
MarionMedic, I notice that you checked my profile to see if my name was still there....
Very nice mods everymilesamemory. I've resisted putting up a DVD or TV, as we only get to camp on weekends (sometimes a little longer). I do have a portable DVD player my kids gave me, but I haven't used it in the camper yet. Still, when it's raining, it would be nice to have that mounted.
Yep. I wanted to see if you left it.
I kinda doubt if anyone would do anything strange with your first name. At least not here.
2005 Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel - All the amenities
2000 Jayco Eagle 302FK - Perfect trailer for the 2 of us
cgrisham wrote:
...and gives me a place to hang the chains, and umbilical to protect them from the weather, too.
...and gives me a place to hang the chains, and umbilical to protect them from the weather, too.
I was never a big fan of the bucket-over-the-electric-jack, but after seeing the additional modification to make it very useful, I think I'm copy it!
I see you used J-hooks for the chains. What did you use for the umbilical?
Stewart
PS - stpauligirlmn I too checked your profile to see how the name was listed. Then I checked my own to see if it were listed too. It really is much ado about nothing. Is it really that bad we know your first name?
Craig. The electric jack cover/safety chain/electrical cord storage is slick.
Looks like I'll have another mod to add to my growing list of things to do.
Thanks,
Mike
* This post was edited 08/21/07 04:46pm by an administrator/moderator *
2007 Dutchmen 29QG-S
2003 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab 4x4 5.7 "Hemi"
Equalizer and a Prodigy
I mean, you know what they say about assuming!
Stewart
2Rad4U wrote:
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner...
I used short screws and the tightened up nicely. Just got back from a 5 nighter and everyone enjoyed the additions, including me!
Edited to correct spelling...
I worried about the same thing, but then I realized I could either make the TT nicer to use, or leave the walls blank for the next owner...
I used short screws and the tightened up nicely. Just got back from a 5 nighter and everyone enjoyed the additions, including me!
Edited to correct spelling...
yes!
I always wonder about people who base their buying decisions on resale value, unless I look at it as an investment I consider the pleasure I will get from it not how little I will lose on the deal. buy it use it enjoy it when the wheels fall of replace it.
* This post was edited 07/23/07 10:25am by an administrator/moderator *
2001 25dbs Tahoe TT, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Duramax
Pictures
.jpg)
cgrisham wrote:
Stewart - I used a broom clip (the ones you use to hang a broom by the handle on the wall) for the umbilical. Works real nice to keep the water and snow out of my connector.
Stewart - I used a broom clip (the ones you use to hang a broom by the handle on the wall) for the umbilical. Works real nice to keep the water and snow out of my connector.
CG - Do you leave the jack covered when traveling? This would sure beat my plastic bag..LOL
Me, wife, 2 kids
1 naughty schnauzer
2011 Grey Wolf 28 BHG
2004 Expedition E.B. 5.4 4x4
No, I remove the bucket when towing, mainly because there's not a whole lot to keep the bucket from being taken off by the wind while underway. When it's parked, and the bucket's on, the weight of the chains keep it on and in place (kind of a cool, unforeseen, perk).
How much weight would that setup support???
I rebuilt the enclosure and had enough room left for my small micro to sit above. The enclosure is open in the back up to the original refer vent, so things don't get hot. Next.........
The new backsplash took care of the area where the squirrels had chewed the wall. It's formica, put on with Grip adhesive and caulked in. Please ignore the tools, I am working on another mod in the kitchen. I decided I needed a place to put my shampoo and such in the shower, so...
I found this neat little wire rack at Walmart, it was designed to use suction cups. I removed the suction cups and used short stainless steel screws with stainless washers to back them up. I used a small amount of butyl rubber caulk to guarantee the screws wouldn't leak into the wall. Now, I needed to do something about the closet........
I am not a "hang up clothes" kind of person. So I removed the closet rod and built in shelves, using 3/4" birch plywood and covering them with sheet vinyl for ease of cleaning. I trimmed out the edges with pvc corner bead. Now my clothes stay where I put them. Now for the extra things I want to carry.....
I decided I needed an extra place to carry things like my EZ Up and extra chairs, cooler, etc. I built this carrier out of 2" x 2" 16ga tubing, and the deck is 1/8" x 1/2" expanded metal. I built in a carrier for my spare. It is bolted around the rear frame, so it's semi-permanent, but I could take it off if needed. The two uprights on the rear are for my dogs expens. Now, for those pesky leveling boards....
I got tired of the boards always being in the way, no matter where I put them. So I slung them under the new carrier. Their rack is built out of 1" x 1" 1/8" angle iron, suspended from the bottom of the carrier using 1 1/4" flat strap. I built in a drop pin and retaining clip, so they can't escape while going down the road. And finally.....
I made the trailer "mine". The emblem on the door was done using my small plasma cutter. It is 1/8" flat plate steel, painted satin black. It's secured to the door using small stainless steel screws and Grip adhesive.
I have more to do, but this is a start in the right direction. I am pretty sure there is no end to it
Me and DS
Velcro and Minnie the felines, a bunch of Borzoi
1992 Dodge B350 "The Dawg Van"
1987 Kit Road Ranger Model 199 "The Dawg Haus"
"It's not old, it's vintage!"
I added plastic pegboard to the storage area, I had all this stuff in a set-up box before..
Adapter I made from 1/8 inch aluminum plate for removable shore power cord..
Adapter installed and plugged in at camp driveway..
Battery power cut-off switch..
Internal wiring soldered and shrink-wrapped...
Tank-risers to allow room for saddle chains, ABS cover actually fits better now as it can rest on top of the tanks..
Thanks for allowing to share some of my mods...Greg
Greg, Susan and two wonderful girls
2005 Toyota Tundra SR5
2006 Jayco 213 Jayfeather
2005 Honda EU2000i
1979 Honda Trail 90 / 1963 Honda Benly 150
2006 Yamaha XT225 / 2006 Honda CRF70
Top-Pop Rails
Our Camper Mods
Pickle & Debbie
2005 Chevrolet Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L
2007 SunnyBrook Sunset Creek 267RL
Here one of my many mods, but one of my favorites
Good Luck and Happy Trails
2007 Dodge 3500 4X4 MC,SRW,CTD
Nascar24 A lengend in my own mind, A Scary thought in someone else's!
2004 Damon Intruder 369W Workhorse Chassis
Mods: LCD TV in Bedroom, Steer-Safe, Winegard Wingman, Bulk LP Gas Adapter for my Camp Chef Grill, Cobra 29 LX LE CB 50th Anniversary Radio with a 3' Firestick NGP Antenna, EEZRV Products TPMS
Parts List:
1/2" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple
1/2" to 3/8" x 12" Hose Connector
1/4 Turn Ball Valve
Got tired of removing the plastic plug to drain the hot water heater and this tucks away nicely.
Let me know if you would like to see pics.
Here is the link to pics of my mod
http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2537479440101890400wpPMeX?vhost=outdoors
* This post was last edited 08/02/07 07:38pm by Living The Dream *
TV: 2005 Ford F-250 PSD/SB Extended Cab/6-Speed Manual/3.73
TT: 2004 Prowler Regal 270FQS
Living The Dream wrote:
Easy Hot Water Heater Drain.
Parts List:
1/2" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple
1/2" to 3/8" x 12" Hose Connector
1/4 Turn Ball Valve
Got tired of removing the plastic plug to drain the hot water heater and this tucks away nicely.
Let me know if you would like to see pics.
Easy Hot Water Heater Drain.
Parts List:
1/2" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple
1/2" to 3/8" x 12" Hose Connector
1/4 Turn Ball Valve
Got tired of removing the plastic plug to drain the hot water heater and this tucks away nicely.
Let me know if you would like to see pics.
If its not a problem, we would like to see what you've done.
2011 Ford F-150 FX4 5.0
2010 Passport Grand Touring 3050BH
XM Radio, Blue OX WD/Sway, Integrated Brake,
Barker 3000 Jack, Kipor 3000,
Beautiful wife,
2 Kids, a
Yellow lab(Kramer) and
a Brittany(Newman)
Thank you.
Very much enjoy this thread.
Living The Dream wrote:
Easy Hot Water Heater Drain.
Parts List:
1/2" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple
1/2" to 3/8" x 12" Hose Connector
1/4 Turn Ball Valve
Got tired of removing the plastic plug to drain the hot water heater and this tucks away nicely.
Let me know if you would like to see pics.
Easy Hot Water Heater Drain.
Parts List:
1/2" x 1 1/2" Pipe Nipple
1/2" to 3/8" x 12" Hose Connector
1/4 Turn Ball Valve
Got tired of removing the plastic plug to drain the hot water heater and this tucks away nicely.
Let me know if you would like to see pics.
Would love to see some pics of the mod. I too do not like the plastic drain plug for the water heater. Thanks, Pat
05 Dodge 2500 5.9 CTD auto
07 Jayco Jay Flight 31BHDS
63 DH Fire Fighter 28 years
63 DW 1st Grade Teacher 9 years
95 DD Equestrian 8 years
2005 Ddog
jailnurse911 wrote:
I can not see Idaho camper photos's. I can see all the others so don't know why I can't see his. Anyone know the answer?
Thank you.
I can not see Idaho camper photos's. I can see all the others so don't know why I can't see his. Anyone know the answer?
Thank you.
Probably because the website he's hosted his pictures on doesn't allow hot linking.
Just right click on the big empty box where his picture should be and copy the web address listed in the property's location. Put that address in the address bar of your preferred browser (Internet Explorer, AOL, Mozilla/Firefox etc) and you can go directly to his picture.
Stewart
idahocamper wrote:
Tank-risers to allow room for saddle chains, ABS cover actually fits better now as it can rest on top of the tanks..
Thanks for allowing to share some of my mods...Greg
Tank-risers to allow room for saddle chains, ABS cover actually fits better now as it can rest on top of the tanks..
Thanks for allowing to share some of my mods...Greg
Those are some pretty little "RED X's" you got there.
I hope to do that someday myself. LOL
* This post was edited 12/28/07 08:43pm by MarionMedic *
* This post was edited 08/02/07 08:26am by Just Horsing Around *
Pat, Lynne, Nick & Winston the dog
"Succumb to the urge and hitch up and go..."
Our Pictures
2006 Dutchmen Lite 18B
2002 Ford Explorer XLT V8 4X4
Stewart_H wrote:
Probably because the website he's hosted his pictures on doesn't allow hot linking.
Just right click on the big empty box where his picture should be and copy the web address listed in the property's location. Put that address in the address bar of your preferred browser (Internet Explorer, AOL, Mozilla/Firefox etc) and you can go directly to his picture.
Stewart
jailnurse911 wrote:
I can not see Idaho camper photos's. I can see all the others so don't know why I can't see his. Anyone know the answer?
Thank you.
I can not see Idaho camper photos's. I can see all the others so don't know why I can't see his. Anyone know the answer?
Thank you.
Probably because the website he's hosted his pictures on doesn't allow hot linking.
Just right click on the big empty box where his picture should be and copy the web address listed in the property's location. Put that address in the address bar of your preferred browser (Internet Explorer, AOL, Mozilla/Firefox etc) and you can go directly to his picture.
Stewart
THanks for the info Stewart And thanks everyone for the mods. I saved a few of them for my tt. Bump!
Stewart
Folded down -
And here is another shelf I installed. We'll use this for small stuff -
Folded down -
Well, never mind. I reread your post and saw how you keep yours clean. I might need to make some changes to my door.
Hey, at least this thread got bumped back up to the top.
* This post was edited 08/06/07 08:41am by MicDuran *
How is it one careless match can start a forest fire, but it takes a whole box to start a campfire?
Happy Camping,
Michelle
Working on another one and hope to have pics of it soon.
My custom disc brakes
I put 4 toggle bolts with machine screw eyes in the back of the cubbyhole area where the TV/VCR/DVD sits. I use bungee cords to keep the equipment in place while traveling.
I made some panels from 2x4s and particleboard to span the bunk. Now 2 kids can sleep up there without worrying about anything breaking.
I put in a vertical mounted paper towel holder, just like I did at home, easier to use and saves space.
Id like to build the microwave into the cabinet. It already fits like a glove through the cabinet door.
Id also like to build a bike rack to attach to the back frame.
---
1989 Sunline Saturn 16' T-1661, Reese WD hitch
2000 Haulmark Cub 5x8, Pontiac alloy wheels
Both w/ Carlisle Hydrastar & custom disc brakes
---
1992 Pontiac Trans Sport SE, Tekonsha Envoy
1990 Pontiac 6000 SE Wagon, custom snowplow
Also:
flip up kitchen counter extension
pocket door to bunkhouse
portable outdoor speakers
extra 12v outlets
storage tray under the frame for big blue tote, firewood, etc.
mud flap (waste hookup is behind the tires)
sensors on bunkhouse exterior doors, alarm in front bedroom
plug strips
night lights
reflective sun shade for shower skylight
tow vehicle roof rack for 3 kayaks and 4.5 bikes
working on extra outdoor 120v outlets
working on back up lights
niceleyc wrote:
tow vehicle roof rack for 3 kayaks and 4.5 bikes
tow vehicle roof rack for 3 kayaks and 4.5 bikes
I would love to see pics of your rack loaded with bikes and kayaks if you have them
thanks
Tracy
sunline1 wrote:
Pat
Nice mods, Where did you get to "Bracket" to mount the TV in the corner ? Maybe I'll mount one in my Travel trailer bedroom like you did.
Thanks,
Sunline1
Pat
Nice mods, Where did you get to "Bracket" to mount the TV in the corner ? Maybe I'll mount one in my Travel trailer bedroom like you did.
Thanks,
Sunline1
Just found it at the local Appliance Store. I think almost any place that will sell appliances, i.e....TV's, Flat Screens...ETC will have them.
Make sure you buy one that has a way to lock it in place, that way when you're traveling, you can lock it. Mine didnt have this, but I have seen other mounts that have them, and I wish I would have bought that one.
Pat
DadToFourBoys wrote:
I then painted the interior with rust preventing paint
I then painted the interior with rust preventing paint
How on God's green earth were you able to reach in there to paint it??
Jeff (DH), Celeste (poster), and Sierra (the most spoiled cocker spaniel in the world
)2002 Chevy Avalanche
2006 Trail Cruiser TC19RDB
'07 301BHS
'07 Dodge 2500 w/5.9L
'96 wife
1 kid
4 dogs
2 cats
1 frog
10 rc's
2013 camping nights: 0
For mods on my seasonal site and our Jayco 29FBS TT:
3rd support system on its factory awning - surf: - Click Here -
Note: A "must have" to survive those sudden flash storms in my area.
Modular deck (which can be moved to a different CG site):
- Front View - surf: - Click Here -
- Side View - surf: - Click Here -
Deck Lighting:
- Manual light Switches - surf: - Click Here -
- Light Assemblies on Main Deck - surf: - Click Here -
- Light assemblies on deck stairs - surf: - Click Here -
Manual 12V Battery Switch - surf: - Click Here -
12V light pointing into wood pile - surf: - Click Here -
These are the main mods....
.
* This post was edited 08/06/07 09:31pm by spike99 *
>and kayaks if you have them
>
>thanks
>Tracy
I don't think I have a picture fully loaded. I'll have to take one. Here is a pic with the kayaks and one bike.
There are usually 2 bikes on one side and 2 + a kids bike on the other. It is fun to load and unload
Everything is on three 78" Thule load bars with appropriate bike & kayak racks and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
TURK2500 wrote:
Since I don't have any large windows on the entry side of my TT, installing three Plexiglas panels (or Lexon) on the outside of my screen door allows more light into the TT when running the heat/air, while the main door remains open.
I attached the panels with commercial grade Velcro, locating 2" long strips at required intervals. I used 3/32" tinted Plexiglas, but would recommend at least 1/8". The panels are mounted on the outside of the screen door making it a little easier to keep clean.
Turk2500
Since I don't have any large windows on the entry side of my TT, installing three Plexiglas panels (or Lexon) on the outside of my screen door allows more light into the TT when running the heat/air, while the main door remains open.
I attached the panels with commercial grade Velcro, locating 2" long strips at required intervals. I used 3/32" tinted Plexiglas, but would recommend at least 1/8". The panels are mounted on the outside of the screen door making it a little easier to keep clean.
Turk2500
That's a fantastic idea. I think it will be next mod.
Thanks.
2005 Chateau 33-L, with Hensley
2004 Ram 2500 QC, 4wd Long bed
Rosehill wrote:
I am not a "hang up clothes" kind of person. So I removed the closet rod and built in shelves, using 3/4" birch plywood and covering them with sheet vinyl for ease of cleaning. I trimmed out the edges with pvc corner bead. Now my clothes stay where I put them.
I am not a "hang up clothes" kind of person. So I removed the closet rod and built in shelves, using 3/4" birch plywood and covering them with sheet vinyl for ease of cleaning. I trimmed out the edges with pvc corner bead. Now my clothes stay where I put them.
I would love to do something like this as I've found that hanging the clothes in the little "closet" seems to be worthless (can't fit much in there and hangers are always falling off the rod and it wastes space). Now if I can only figure out how to go about it...
CampingKinsey wrote:
I would love to do something like this as I've found that hanging the clothes in the little "closet" seems to be worthless (can't fit much in there and hangers are always falling off the rod and it wastes space). Now if I can only figure out how to go about it...
Rosehill wrote:
I am not a "hang up clothes" kind of person. So I removed the closet rod and built in shelves, using 3/4" birch plywood and covering them with sheet vinyl for ease of cleaning. I trimmed out the edges with pvc corner bead. Now my clothes stay where I put them.
I am not a "hang up clothes" kind of person. So I removed the closet rod and built in shelves, using 3/4" birch plywood and covering them with sheet vinyl for ease of cleaning. I trimmed out the edges with pvc corner bead. Now my clothes stay where I put them.
I would love to do something like this as I've found that hanging the clothes in the little "closet" seems to be worthless (can't fit much in there and hangers are always falling off the rod and it wastes space). Now if I can only figure out how to go about it...
Sending you a PM about how I did it.
TURK2500 wrote:
Since I don't have any large windows on the entry side of my TT, installing three Plexiglas panels (or Lexon) on the outside of my screen door allows more light into the TT when running the heat/air, while the main door remains open.
I attached the panels with commercial grade Velcro, locating 2" long strips at required intervals. I used 3/32" tinted Plexiglas, but would recommend at least 1/8". The panels are mounted on the outside of the screen door making it a little easier to keep clean.
Turk2500
Since I don't have any large windows on the entry side of my TT, installing three Plexiglas panels (or Lexon) on the outside of my screen door allows more light into the TT when running the heat/air, while the main door remains open.
I attached the panels with commercial grade Velcro, locating 2" long strips at required intervals. I used 3/32" tinted Plexiglas, but would recommend at least 1/8". The panels are mounted on the outside of the screen door making it a little easier to keep clean.
Turk2500
Well, guess what I will be doing Saturday......This is a fantastic idea. I have plenty of windows, but this will save me constantly opening the main door to go in and out.
Now I've got yet another mod to work on!!
Ken
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles."
-Doug Larson
Dodge Quad Hemi__Starcraft Aruba 26RS
PS. I was able to outline them agains the body and cut the excess off. Looks pretty good. Once I figure out how to post pics in here, I may put them up.
niceleyc wrote:
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
everymilesamemory wrote:
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
niceleyc wrote:
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
Can you provide photos?
stugpanzer wrote:
Can you provide photos?
everymilesamemory wrote:
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
niceleyc wrote:
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
Can you provide photos?
I would like to see this too
2005 Gulfstream Conquest 30 BHS.
2003 Dodge 2500 CTD HO 48RE
Me,Wifey,J.R.,Fido
DW and I in our Gulfstream Amerilite 21MB
Chevy Silverado 2500 HD - Duramax Diesel 6.6L - Allison Tranny
"We can categorically state that we have not released man-eating badgers into the area." - Major Mike Shearer - British Army - Basra, Iraq
This might not work for everyone, but if you have a heavy duty rack on the roof, then it is easily accomplished. I went to the local scrap metal yard, and had them cut the aluminum for me. I bought thick walled 1"x1" square bars and had a local welder weld them in place.
From the same scrap yard, I bought a 4'x8' piece of aluminum expanded metal, and cut it with a sawsall. I then took some self taping screws (Stainless) with large stainless fender washers and screwed the ehck out of it.
I can now walk around on the top of the cap, with no worries of damaging the top. This will also serve as a great platform while at sporting events where a better view will be had from above the crowd. You can see the Kayaks mounted on each end of the roof rack also.
All in all, the scrap cost around $100 and the welding took a few minutes, but a one hour minimum was charged at $50.
I figured since the cap cost a few grand, a few more hundred was worth the cost of not ruining it by walking on it all the time.
* This post was edited 08/20/07 08:12pm by an administrator/moderator *
ManInACan wrote:
I would like to see this too
stugpanzer wrote:
Can you provide photos?
everymilesamemory wrote:
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
niceleyc wrote:
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
> and a couple of sections of unistrut for me to walk on so I don't mash the roof.
I was mashing the roof pretty bad also, so I screwed some pieces of aluminum expanded metal in between some pieces of aluminum square tube for me to walk on.
Now the entire top is like a patio and I dont have to worry about hurting anything!!
Pat
Can you provide photos?
I would like to see this too
me three
2001 CC/SB...& 5 wheels
windriderjr wrote:
My DW is a believer in hanging stuff up in the closet and was always complaining that all the clothes would just be in a pile when we arrived at the CG or at home. I put a cup hook in each side of the closet directly below the pole and loosely attached two bungy cords around the tops of the hangers. If interested, I'll post a picture later.
My DW is a believer in hanging stuff up in the closet and was always complaining that all the clothes would just be in a pile when we arrived at the CG or at home. I put a cup hook in each side of the closet directly below the pole and loosely attached two bungy cords around the tops of the hangers. If interested, I'll post a picture later.
I'd be interested in seeing those pics...even if I have decided to implement one of the other mods on here and install shelves instead!
I picked up 3 of the 12V fans at wallyworld for around 9 bucks each. I found the place I am going to put two fans above our bed (his and hers)....For power there is a light under the cabinet that I can tap into..now for the real, question...do you just tap into the power with no fuse?? or do you purchase a 800mAh fuse block and feed off that. The fans I purchased has a 800 mAh fuse in the 12V plug...I know its 9 bucks and if it burns up it burns up...no biggy....but I have a pretty nice trailer that I don't want to explain to the wife that a little 9 dollar fan started the fire...I think I'm ok just want to be sure...I could get a inline fuse holder to put the fuse in...just wanted to know what you RV's did...
thanks in advance. Looking at the other mods...I gotta get busy. just put a folding up table next to the sink...can't wait for that to be used....handy..also put led stick up lights in the cargo area.
1. I was getting tired of having the trash can sitting out in the way and have moved it all around trying to find the best place. Finally had the solution come to me...put it under the sink. Our sink is a corner unit which is like a cavern under there. We cut a hole in the side panel, installed some molding and have a place for the trash and folding stool.
2. Our camper came with a cheap radio that we really wanted to replace. My husband changed it out with a car stero and had to add inside speakers since the old unit had built in speakers.
Old unit:
False bottom of cabinet removed to get to wires and the install of the first speaker:
Finished job with new stereo and new speakers:
Pam
* This post was edited 08/20/07 08:15pm by an administrator/moderator *
2011 Open Range Roamer 266RLS
2007 Toyota Tundra double cab 5.7-liter V8
One DH
two very spoiled camping dogs
We thought of doing the same thing, but thought they would just rattle loose
Pat
They are the plastic glasses and they have never come out (at least not going down the road).
Pam
PamfromVA wrote:
Pat,
They are the plastic glasses and they have never come out (at least not going down the road).
Pam
Pat,
They are the plastic glasses and they have never come out (at least not going down the road).
Pam
Ahhh.... The old "plastic Glass" trick.
Nice mods, thanks for sharing.
Ken
* This post was edited 08/20/07 08:15pm by an administrator/moderator *
2007 Sierra Classic 2500HD 4x4 CC LB D/A
2005 Arctic Fox 32D
They are well worth the few bucks and a few minutes of time for the installation.
We mounted them in front of the wheels in case any road debris was kicked up behind the axles.
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
windriderjr wrote:
My DW is a believer in hanging stuff up in the closet and was always complaining that all the clothes would just be in a pile when we arrived at the CG or at home. I put a cup hook in each side of the closet directly below the pole and loosely attached two bungy cords around the tops of the hangers. If interested, I'll post a picture later.
My DW is a believer in hanging stuff up in the closet and was always complaining that all the clothes would just be in a pile when we arrived at the CG or at home. I put a cup hook in each side of the closet directly below the pole and loosely attached two bungy cords around the tops of the hangers. If interested, I'll post a picture later.
Well, the loosely attached bungy cords didn't work so well. I replaced them with a single cord that needed a bit of stretch to reach the hooks and it worked much better. The clothes stayed put on the closet pole and the cup hooks didn't rip out of the wall. Will post pictures later.
2Rad4U wrote:
I added these extra hoses to the water pump this weekend and they REALLY worked!
They are well worth the few bucks and a few minutes of time for the installation.
I added these extra hoses to the water pump this weekend and they REALLY worked!
They are well worth the few bucks and a few minutes of time for the installation.
This may sound dumb, but what was the purpose of adding the hoses. Don't know if this is something to do or not. Thanks
How do extra hoses quiet the pump?
Here is a link to more info -
Shurflo Pump Silencer Kit
N.
2007 GMC Classic D/A Crew 4x4 SLT, OnStar, XM, VR, Garmin,
Prodigy, Equal-i-zer, Roadmaster Active Suspension
2007 Arctic Fox 27T
Co-pilots Daisy the Golden Retriever and Lucy the Flat-Coated
Retriever pup.
Ned wrote:
Worth every dollar. I've installed a set on the last three trailers. Shurflo sells it to quiet its own pump! Or, you can make your own, but you'll spend more on parts than the kit costs.
N.
Worth every dollar. I've installed a set on the last three trailers. Shurflo sells it to quiet its own pump! Or, you can make your own, but you'll spend more on parts than the kit costs.
N.
You don't have to spend more. In fact I did it for about half that price. You can buy those hoses and connectors right off the shelf at any hardware store. No fabrication required either. They are basically the same size as the ones under your bathroom sink at home.
The flexible hoses quiet the pump by absorbing the vibration and water hammer effect, instead of just passing it along down the pipe. You can also quiet the pump by adding additional padding under the feet.
* This post was edited 08/23/07 04:52pm by BillyW *
'97 F150 4X4
'04 Pioneer 18T6
Thanks for all the great ideas for mods though!
09' Keystone Passport 280BH
05' GMC Yukon XL
Brian (the driver), Jenn* (navigator and trip planner), Landon (Our shinning star son) and a little dog named Killer (who does not like being left behind AT ALL)
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
I took this propane light out or our 1963 camper before I got rid of the camper. I bought the glass globe from Vintage Trailer Supply and installed it in our trailer.
I am now looking for another one to put in the bathroom because there is no heat in there. These lights put out a fair amount of heat and should keep the bathroom nice and warm.
I am also working on quieting the water pump, several storage optimizing projects including adding a diamond plate box to the A frame hitch area. I'll post each upon completion.
Jeff, Lori, Capri & Jacob
08 Aerolite 21QS
01 Ford F150 Supercrew
Charlie - Amateur Radio Call - KB7PYF (CN87qr)
'99 F-250 Ford PSD short box extended cab 4x4 TT: Cougar 29.4 RLS TT (w/slide) and 21' Seaswirl Striper walk-around (salmon slayer)
Love those little propane lights Rubiranch. Useful AND beautiful! Can't get better than that!
Craig and Deann,daughter,son
01 Tahoe ( Miss Rita )
99 Dodge Qcab SLT 5.9
JeffBett wrote:
I like this alot, looks great.
Thanks stpauligirlmn, I think we are going to like that light.
If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough
2001 F250 POWER STROKE, PILGRIM 278RL SS, HOME BUILT 5'X 9' TEARDROP
Thanks!
And bumping is NOT ALLOWED in the forums!! If I see it, the post is GONE!!!!
Moderator
* This post was edited 09/26/07 05:45am by an administrator/moderator *
2004 Ford F350 V10 CC LB; 4:30 -(Beauty...)
2006 Keystone Cougar 290EFS, AirSafe Hitch -(...and The Beast)
Pam
2012 Arctic Fox 30U
2012 GMC Sierra 3500 D/A
Me and wonderful DH
Previous #1: 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 299BHS, 2007 Chevy Tahoe
Previous #2: 2010 Carriage Carri-Lite 36MAX1, 2008 Ford F-450 (full timed for two years)
Current: 2013 Dutchman Kodiak 300BHSL, 2004 Ford Excursion
nubwon wrote:
Hey Craig, that is our old travel trailer you have there. I hope you got it all fixed up good from Rita's damage. Its good to see that someone is getting more use from her. It was a great trailer for us, I hope she servs you well for many years.......NUB.....
Hey Craig, that is our old travel trailer you have there. I hope you got it all fixed up good from Rita's damage. Its good to see that someone is getting more use from her. It was a great trailer for us, I hope she servs you well for many years.......NUB.....
HI NUB Nice to run into to you here. Noticed your handy work I see.
We are having a great time with the TT.
I fixed her up good,take a look. We named her Miss Rita
(click)
Got to run and get ready for some High School Football (Homecoming)
Have a nice weekend.
Craig
* This post was edited 09/21/07 04:39pm by newtrail *
My only complaint is I had to move the kayaks up and I dont like the way they look right now. The tail ends of the kayaks hung over between the truck and the camper, and would hit while turning. This was built from scrap 2" square stock and a few round bars welded onto the cross member on the top.
It's heavy duty, but hopefully it'll hold up to the test of mileage and years on the road. Plus, it only cost $125 and that includes the steel!!! Cant beat that. I liked the Top-Rails model, but at $500, that's a little out of my budget and it wouldnt bolt on to our frame because of our battery holder.
Bolted onto the a-frame with Grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts
The welder fabricated a little section so the stock would sit level
We still have full access to the propane tanks and bank of batteries
And here you can see how much space we have with the kayaks on
Happy Camping
Pat
www.everymilesamemory.com
Post edited to max picture width of 640 pixels!!
Moderator
* This post was edited 09/26/07 05:47am by an administrator/moderator *
Thanks,
Elk
2000 KZ sportsmen 1701. Very customized. 1993 F250 w/460. almost 200,000 miles. She can still pull.
elk hunter wrote:
O.K., I like the water pump silencer. It looks real simple. I don't want to buy the kit, so can someone explain or show the hook up. Why 2 pieces of tubing?
Thanks,
Elk
O.K., I like the water pump silencer. It looks real simple. I don't want to buy the kit, so can someone explain or show the hook up. Why 2 pieces of tubing?
Thanks,
Elk
the flexible hose pieces help to isolate the vibrations and absorb some of the water hammering effect. typically you will find your water pump piped directly into the stiffer PEX tubing. The vibrations will carry into the hose and vibrate against the floor or whatever it is resting on.
elk hunter wrote:
I understand how it works. I am looking for info on how to hook it up. Thanks.
I understand how it works. I am looking for info on how to hook it up. Thanks.
Umm...
One section on each side of the pump....
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
My wife really wanted a heated matress pad. That's fine by me since we can keep it cooler in the trailer and I don't fry since each side of the pad has independent controls. I wanted to be able to use it on battery so I bought a 12v ElectroWarmth model. The pad pulls ten amps with both sides on high.
I wasn't going to deal with a cord running across the bedroom so I ran two new lines from the battery (14 gauge). I added fuses holders in each line at an accesable place under the trailer side skirting.
I put one outlet under each side of the bed. This could come in handy for other things too.
After adding cables holders, some velcro plus wire ties, the install was nice and clean, just the way I wanted it.
While I was at it, I also installed a 12v outlet on my battery box so I have easy access to power up front.
That outlet has another fuse holder under the battery cover.
More to follow!
Mike
2006 Damon Daybreak 3276 37' bunkhouse
2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
SoCal Family Campers
I have a 87 Fleetwood Lynx, what I have done thus far:
*Replaced taillights
*Pulled out old carpet, put down pergo flooring over old linoleum floor.
*Cut off old bumper, added 30 in deck on the rear, bolted to the frame. I primarily haul my scooter, but it is big enought for firewood or rubbermaid boxes.
*Added a TV shelf and rerouted cable and split it for couch area and bedroom TVs. Installed Antenna booster.
*Removed old non functioning Dometic fridge, and replace with 4.6 cubic foot dorm fridge, raised it 20 inches, giving me another access/storage compartment on the outside.
*Added outside GFCI receptacle on switch for lights.
*fire extinguisher and mount
*Added ladder for bunks
*Intalled shelves in 2 or the 3 closets, givin much more storage out of unused space.
Planning:
*Water Heater replacement to one that runs on 110 AC. Currently only on propane.
*Tongue mounted bike rack.
post edited for language!!
Moderator
* This post was edited 09/26/07 05:43am by an administrator/moderator *
NO BUMPING ALLOWED!!
Moderator
* This post was edited 09/26/07 05:44am by an administrator/moderator *
DH 1959
ME 1962
2 DS home
1 DS college
1 DD college grad living and working in Omaha
2 DS
2 DDIL 2 grand babies2000 Dodge Ram Van 1500
1998 Jayco 12 UD ST
Eureka Tent
Before our current PUP, had a 2005 Jayco Hybrid and a 92 Coleman PUP.
The other mod we made was to add cabinets to the TT. They had cabinets over the couch that just had two doors close to the middle. Then cabinets over the dinette. Blank space in-between over the window. My DH added a cabinet the length of that blank space. Build just like the other cabinets. Only problem was no matching doors.To solve this we just took two doors from the bedroom cabinets and hung them on the new one. For the bedroom he made doors to replace the ones we took to the front. They don't match but they are also out of sight. With a little fine tuning they could look better, but what the heck we/I can live with this for a while! The added storage was well worth it and again it really looks like this should have been done when the TT was built.
We also added a storage compartment door to the drivers side. The only outside storage was accessed from the rear of the TT. Very awkward to get anything out of that long narrow space. They are under what was twin beds. So we bought a door, cut into the side of the TT and put the new door in. We were lucky, the door we found just fit in-between the aluminum studs, MUCH better access.
We have done a lot of little things but these are the major improvements we have made.
* This post was edited 09/26/07 07:22am by KLO *
newtrail wrote:
HI NUB Nice to run into to you here. Noticed your handy work I see.
We are having a great time with the TT.
I fixed her up good,take a look. We named her Miss Rita
(click)
Got to run and get ready for some High School Football (Homecoming)
Have a nice weekend.
Craig
nubwon wrote:
Hey Craig, that is our old travel trailer you have there. I hope you got it all fixed up good from Rita's damage. Its good to see that someone is getting more use from her. It was a great trailer for us, I hope she servs you well for many years.......NUB.....
Hey Craig, that is our old travel trailer you have there. I hope you got it all fixed up good from Rita's damage. Its good to see that someone is getting more use from her. It was a great trailer for us, I hope she servs you well for many years.......NUB.....
HI NUB Nice to run into to you here. Noticed your handy work I see.
We are having a great time with the TT.
I fixed her up good,take a look. We named her Miss Rita
(click)
Got to run and get ready for some High School Football (Homecoming)
Have a nice weekend.
Craig
Dang...I'm impressed, you did some fine work. It looks pretty intimidating until you had it pulled apart...not to bad a job...but it's that initial tear down...hehehe.
Great work!
Mike
My computer beat me at chess, but I beat it at kick boxing!
MODERATOR
Moderator
* This post was edited 12/13/07 08:05pm by LAdams *
Thanks
Ken
A few weeks ago, I was asked by several members to create a "sticky" for the "Cool Mods" threads... I did better than that, and working with Admin, we created a "special" catagory for "Modifications and Accessories", "Vintage Travel Trailers", and "Pictures of our Travel Trailers" as well as a "General Q&A" Forum... Within the "Modifications and Accessories" catagory lies the "Cool Mods" thread... It is not necessary to bump threads within that catagory because you already have a special catagory... The way that catagories is set up within the forum, it also appears on the main forum pages and every time you bump, you also bump the main page...
Now you know - don't bump!!
Moderator
* This post was edited 12/13/07 08:06pm by LAdams *
2005 F350 LARIAT LE CREWCAB POWERSTROKE TURBO DIESEL DUALLY, OXFORD WHITE, 4X4, TOW COMMAND,C-BETR,16K REESE HITCH, ACCESS TONNEAUCOVER, VORTEX SPRAY IN LINER,
2006 MONTANA 3500RL
MorRyde Suspension and Pin Box. Yamaha EF2400IS
This is a great thread and one that folks are interested in and a great way to learn about them. Thanks everyone.
skippy102162 wrote:
Moderator--Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize any rules were being violated in bumping.
This is a great thread and one that folks are interested in and a great way to learn about them. Thanks everyone.
Moderator--Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize any rules were being violated in bumping.
This is a great thread and one that folks are interested in and a great way to learn about them. Thanks everyone.
I agree whole heartedly, I have been away from the forum for awhile and have this thread very handy and full of knowledge!! Lets keep the mods coming!!
2008 Jayflight Bungalow - the beer is always cold!
I figure that with the closet removed and a new door I could fit a better bath. I would need a shower pan and or stall and could remove and turn the toilet and reuse it. Any thoughts?
* This post was last edited 10/21/07 09:30pm by n3qdz *
Matt Christopher
06' Forest River Cherokee 31Z+
03' Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer 6.0L PSD
14,000lb equalizer hitch
Brake Smart controller
Attwood 3,500 electric jack
JT Strong arm stabilizer jacks
"Sidney" Chessie
"Hunter" beagle
"Sasha" cocker spaniel
 (Custom).JPG)
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Okay, cool mods is the subject! I just upgraded all my clearance lights to LED fixtures. My trailer has Bargman 59 clearance lights. Bargman makes an upgrade kit for this fixture which features a dual LED module and a new lens...
It took me about fifteen minutes to change all the lights. It's super simple... pop off the old lens, pull out the bulb, plug in the new adapter and snap the cover back on. Instant upgrade!
You can see the difference in this shot which has the LED on the far right and the stock bulbs in the other two.
Not to shabby for under $100 and a few minutes work.
Mike
Whoops never mind! Duh you only gave it the first line of your post. Sorry they look good!
...My Mods can be seen HERE
Les
First I bought a wired camera and monitor along with some extra camera cable from this EBAY Seller.
Then I took a metal bracket and mounted the camera to it and mounted that assembly to the back of the TT. I ran the wire down from the inside of the TT into a storage compartment and down underneath the TT and zip tied it to the frame. Up by the trailer tongue, I wrapped the camera wire in wire loom to protect it and now it is one more thing I connect when I tow. In the TV, I strung the wire up in the trim and also put wire loom on the wire where it comes out of the TV to connect to the TT. I only have the two photos to show for now, but will get more detailed photos up soon.
Camera:
Monitor:
LAdams wrote:
Grind all you want Mike, although IMO I don't think you have the "proper" equipment for that ...
My Mods can be seen HERE
Les
Grind all you want Mike, although IMO I don't think you have the "proper" equipment for that
...My Mods can be seen HERE
Les
Les, where did you pull the power for your shower light? and how did you snake the wires?
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
* This post was last edited 09/28/07 07:10am by JAL_Camper *
JAL
2002 Burb 2500 LT, 8.1L, Autoride, 4x4
2005 Jayco Eagle 298BHS
Check It OutReese HP 1,200 Lb. Bars WD/Dual Cam HP Sway Control/Prodigy® Brake ControlFamily: Two Baby Boomers with Two Generation Y Kids -- All RV Generation
CAMPED IN:
rondeb wrote:
The Moderator said there was now a category of Mods all by itself. Where can I find it. I would have assummed that it would be up in the sections, but nothing there for modifications.
The Moderator said there was now a category of Mods all by itself. Where can I find it. I would have assummed that it would be up in the sections, but nothing there for modifications.
Is THIS what you are talking about?
While I was in the area I added abattery cutoff switch
Hopefully, more to come!
Mark & Kim
Kaylee, Jake & Justin - da squids
2000 Jayco Eagle 325 BHS
'05 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
I want to put one on the back of my trailer as well but I'd like it to be of decent quality so I can use it going down the road and backing up.
One question on your installation... did you have a cabinet or something right behind the camera or did you have to fish it down the wall? I have just the wall in mine and I've been mulling over my options. One thought was to remove the center clearance light and fish the wire down through that opening.
Thanks!
Mike
Got a lot to share, but for now I just want to show you one of my little modifications...LOL
I like to lay in bed and use my laptop, or read, and I had to get out of bed to turn the light out....or worse, had to get out of bed to turn the light on to see the thermostat to adjust it in the middle of the night (several times a night as I freeze or fry)....so I added this little nightlight that makes me smile.
I've done a few other things and will post them too.
jiga20001 wrote:
Is THIS what you are talking about?
rondeb wrote:
The Moderator said there was now a category of Mods all by itself. Where can I find it. I would have assummed that it would be up in the sections, but nothing there for modifications.
The Moderator said there was now a category of Mods all by itself. Where can I find it. I would have assummed that it would be up in the sections, but nothing there for modifications.
Is THIS what you are talking about?
There has to be another section for MODS that doesn't cover it
Moderator HELP
Mike Schriber wrote:
How's the quality on that camera stugpanzer? I modified my navigation radio to have video input on my Suburban. I installed a "keyhole" type camera in my license plate already which is great for hitching up. It came from eBay (looks the same as the one your seller has listed as an option) and the quality is pretty poor.
I want to put one on the back of my trailer as well but I'd like it to be of decent quality so I can use it going down the road and backing up.
One question on your installation... did you have a cabinet or something right behind the camera or did you have to fish it down the wall? I have just the wall in mine and I've been mulling over my options. One thought was to remove the center clearance light and fish the wire down through that opening.
Thanks!
Mike
How's the quality on that camera stugpanzer? I modified my navigation radio to have video input on my Suburban. I installed a "keyhole" type camera in my license plate already which is great for hitching up. It came from eBay (looks the same as the one your seller has listed as an option) and the quality is pretty poor.
I want to put one on the back of my trailer as well but I'd like it to be of decent quality so I can use it going down the road and backing up.
One question on your installation... did you have a cabinet or something right behind the camera or did you have to fish it down the wall? I have just the wall in mine and I've been mulling over my options. One thought was to remove the center clearance light and fish the wire down through that opening.
Thanks!
Mike
The quality is excellent and as an added bonus, the camera also has short range night vision via some IR LED's mounted on the camera.
Yes, I have a cabinet where the camera mounts to the wall. I then brought the wire down the wall in the corner, but I don't like that so I need to figure a better way to fish it down. Other than that, it has been a great addition.
The Ebay seller I got it from is great to deal with. Remember that when you buy it, it comes with one cable. I had him quote me adding an extra cable...one for the TT and one for the TV. It works great when I hook up, I just connect one more thing...very simple. I will try to prepare more detailed photos of the installation and post them soon.
rondeb wrote:
There has to be another section for MODS that doesn't cover it
Moderator HELP
There has to be another section for MODS that doesn't cover it
Moderator HELP
I'm not a Moderator, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so here' is your answer:
Look in the small, long, rectangular box just above the threads in the TT forum.
It will have the following listing.
Topic Categories: Show All | General Q&A | Modifications and Accessories | Vintage Travel Trailers | Pictures of our Travel Trailers
They are all links (subcatagories) in the TT forum.
Stewart
Now I need to see if I can find a place to run the wire!
Mike
stugpanzer wrote:
The quality is excellent and as an added bonus, the camera also has short range night vision via some IR LED's mounted on the camera.
Yes, I have a cabinet where the camera mounts to the wall. I then brought the wire down the wall in the corner, but I don't like that so I need to figure a better way to fish it down. Other than that, it has been a great addition.
The Ebay seller I got it from is great to deal with. Remember that when you buy it, it comes with one cable. I had him quote me adding an extra cable...one for the TT and one for the TV. It works great when I hook up, I just connect one more thing...very simple. I will try to prepare more detailed photos of the installation and post them soon.
Mike Schriber wrote:
How's the quality on that camera stugpanzer? I modified my navigation radio to have video input on my Suburban. I installed a "keyhole" type camera in my license plate already which is great for hitching up. It came from eBay (looks the same as the one your seller has listed as an option) and the quality is pretty poor.
I want to put one on the back of my trailer as well but I'd like it to be of decent quality so I can use it going down the road and backing up.
One question on your installation... did you have a cabinet or something right behind the camera or did you have to fish it down the wall? I have just the wall in mine and I've been mulling over my options. One thought was to remove the center clearance light and fish the wire down through that opening.
Thanks!
Mike
How's the quality on that camera stugpanzer? I modified my navigation radio to have video input on my Suburban. I installed a "keyhole" type camera in my license plate already which is great for hitching up. It came from eBay (looks the same as the one your seller has listed as an option) and the quality is pretty poor.
I want to put one on the back of my trailer as well but I'd like it to be of decent quality so I can use it going down the road and backing up.
One question on your installation... did you have a cabinet or something right behind the camera or did you have to fish it down the wall? I have just the wall in mine and I've been mulling over my options. One thought was to remove the center clearance light and fish the wire down through that opening.
Thanks!
Mike
The quality is excellent and as an added bonus, the camera also has short range night vision via some IR LED's mounted on the camera.
Yes, I have a cabinet where the camera mounts to the wall. I then brought the wire down the wall in the corner, but I don't like that so I need to figure a better way to fish it down. Other than that, it has been a great addition.
The Ebay seller I got it from is great to deal with. Remember that when you buy it, it comes with one cable. I had him quote me adding an extra cable...one for the TT and one for the TV. It works great when I hook up, I just connect one more thing...very simple. I will try to prepare more detailed photos of the installation and post them soon.
NYCountryboy wrote:
Les, where did you pull the power for your shower light? and how did you snake the wires?
Les, where did you pull the power for your shower light? and how did you snake the wires?
Scott,
The roof on my Nomad is a truss style roof and that means that there are several openings across the individual supports...
The picture below is a typical RV truss roof frame... In actual practice, I dropped the bathroom light fixture and fished a wire through the openings of the truss frame to the opening I had cut for the wire where the new light fixture was to be positioned...
It's really pretty easy to fish through walls and ceilings once you get the hang of it... Doing so enables the individual to make quite a few more mods that require power...
Les
rondeb wrote:
There has to be another section for MODS that doesn't cover it
Moderator HELP
There has to be another section for MODS that doesn't cover it
Moderator HELP
Here is what the opening forum screen looks like... Under the Travel Trailer Forum you can see several catagories that say:
General Q&A, Modifications and Accessories, Vintage Travel Trailers, Pictures of our Travel Trailers. The Modifications and Accessories catagory will contain all posts that deal with modifications and accessories including the post entitled "Cool Mods"...
Les - Moderator - TT Forum
I actually built a good size drawer under our frig, where a access panel was.
Wifey loves it, worked grat for bath towel storage.
pacamper
2009 Ram CC FX4 Hemi w/3:92
2007 CrossRoads ST26BH
Mike
Karl
Karl
I didn't use the foam blocks but was amazed at how much quieter the pump is with just adding the flexible water lines. Keep the mods coming...
Ian/Mary/Rusty
wire fox terror
03 Dodge Ram 3500,4x4,QC,
Line X,Hijacker 16K slider,
06 Titanium 32E37TS
....Here is mine...
some additional pictures of the platform:
Platform_pic_1 Platform_pic_2 Platform_pic_3 Platform_pic_4
Easily carries 5+ bikes, can be used to haul geneators, outside refrigerator, or whatever the day/trip calls for.... Also have hookups to double tow if necessary.
Constructive disagreement is encouraged. It is how I/we learn!
Dad,Mom, & 3 young'ns
Current Home (Calgary)
Follow the link in my sig to see how to make your own!
"I didn't plan on getting old, it just happened, and it will happen to you too, if you're lucky".
---Andy Rooney
When I post in all red letters, I'm talking as a Moderator... when I post in black or blue, I'm talking as a member... Red kind of gets everyone's attention so when I have my Moderator hat on, I post in red... You also won't see my signature when I post as a Moderator...
BTW - some very nice modifications here - we certainly have a lot of talented members
Les
.
pawatt
More to follow!
Mike
My Mods
Most my mods are for storage optimization. After doing so many and getting into almost ever inch of my new TT I feel I really know it better and will be able to maintain it better now. One thing I learned is that they don't know what a vacuum is at the factory. I bet I sucked out more then 2 lbs of sawdust, cutout scraps, trim, and extra screws, etc. from the areas they figure we will never see.
JeffBett wrote:
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
WOW Jeff, great mods! I am really impressed with your ingenuity and workmanship! Thanks for your post and for giving me some ideas.
Very impressive!Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
Visit our website here
BarneyS wrote:
WOW Jeff, great mods! I am really impressed with your ingenuity and workmanship! Thanks for your post and for giving me some ideas. Very impressive!
Barney
JeffBett wrote:
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
WOW Jeff, great mods! I am really impressed with your ingenuity and workmanship! Thanks for your post and for giving me some ideas.
Very impressive!Barney
I totally agree! Wonderful ideas, gives me alot of inspiration!
good going
Ken
bjsmmns wrote:
I totally agree! Wonderful ideas, gives me alot of inspiration!
BarneyS wrote:
WOW Jeff, great mods! I am really impressed with your ingenuity and workmanship! Thanks for your post and for giving me some ideas. Very impressive!
Barney
JeffBett wrote:
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
WOW Jeff, great mods! I am really impressed with your ingenuity and workmanship! Thanks for your post and for giving me some ideas.
Very impressive!Barney
I totally agree! Wonderful ideas, gives me alot of inspiration!
Great work Jeff! I saw a few I would like to do to our TT.
Fine looking family also.
Inside the box I lined the part where the batteries are with some 1/2" plastic dense foam I had from some packing material so the batteries would not rub. I also cut a 3/4" board to the exact width of the box and drilled and screwed it into place to hold the batteries in place.
I think I need to have you take another look at my trailer as a "Storage consultant".
I'm not even going to bother posting that I got my LED taillight bulbs today... snif!
Mike
Keep them coming.
2003 Suburban K1500
Prodigy Brake controller
Putnam XDR
Original Equalizer Hitch
1994 Terry 29L
Thanks to you the DH's honey do list just got a LOT longer.
Peter & Dawn
97 Winnebago Adventurer 37RW
96 Prowler 27X SOLD
IAFF L-792
Thanks!
These are my favorite and biggest mods to date.
I got tired of using a baby gate to keep my daughter on the top bunk so I built a ladder and rail and now my 3 year old sleeps up top. The "crib" is about the same size as my daughter's at home so it is just like home for her and keeps her out and away from the window and blinds.
I have also recently added Trailair Equaflex and a set of shocks to my trailer. I am getting ready to enclose the underbelly and have already started sealing up the storage compartments with block foam and expanded PVC plastic sheet. I have added shelves in the closets and the list goes on and on.
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4, quad cab SRW/LB, CTD/6spd auto
'08 Pilgrim Legends 37QB4S-H5
JT Strongarms, 5th Airborne, few custom touches
Me (DH), DW, two rowdy boys, two sweet little girls.
RV Education 101
Baby "crib"
Top bunk rail and ladder
moderator don't be bashful about deleting this one.
Here are your pictures with the correct tags to post them....
Suggest you quote-reply to my message and you'll see the right format...
* This post was edited 10/15/07 08:00am by an administrator/moderator *
I didn't want the actuator rod moving with the slider like others I've seen so I changed the design to go through the fixed plastic on the side.
It seems to work very well and I can't wait to camp without messing with that stupid slider!
Mike
Crossroads Sunset Trail 30BH
Dodge Ram 1500 TV with dual exhaust and K&N cool air intake
2003 Polaris 600 Twin ATV
2006 SunL 110 ATV
2006 Honda ST-1300
06 GRAYSTONE LBZ | MBRP 4" TURBO BACK | NOR*CALTRUCK 4-6 LIFT | AMP STEPS | 4300k HID'S | KMC DIESELS
06 COACHMEN ADRENALINE 314FS TOY HAULER | CLEAR LEDS | A&E POWER AWNING | ON BOARD AIR
05 HONDA 450R & HONDA 400EX
__________________________________
copter wrote:
1.. I stumbled upon it from the "dark" side Toyhauler forum. 1
1.. I stumbled upon it from the "dark" side Toyhauler forum. 1
OK I have been around a while now, but for the life of me I don't have a clue about where or what this "dark side" is that allot of people mention
Someone want to tell this dumb dumb what it is?
tx
Ken
Lowes/Home Depot/Menards?
TIA
-Joel
"The pursuit of perfection is frustrating and a waste of time. The pursuit of excellence is comendable and worthwhile. Therefore, strive for excellence, not perfection." -Alan Kulwicki
In the link below I give the part number and where I ordered it. It is the only place I found what I wanted.
Link to Original Post of counter Extension
Network_Man wrote:
Stupid question, but where do you get the hardware for the folding counter extensions that are in several of the posts, like the one from Rondeb on 12JUL07 or moderator Les Adams on 4JUL07?
Lowes/Home Depot/Menards?
Stupid question, but where do you get the hardware for the folding counter extensions that are in several of the posts, like the one from Rondeb on 12JUL07 or moderator Les Adams on 4JUL07?
Lowes/Home Depot/Menards?
Hi Joel,
First of all - there NO SUCH THING as a stupid question - the only "stupid question" is the one is IS NOT ASKED
... That's how we all learn - by asking questions...Now to answer your question - I bought my shelf brackets from my RV dealer who got them from the manufacturer... Actually, when I ordered them, mine hadn't come in yet so my dealer simply removed them from another TT similar to mine... I don't remember what they cost, but they were not expensive...
Les
Thanks in advance if you can help.
~ Karin
We use paper towels for napkins, they are much more absorbent.
Even though the layout was close to what we wanted, the standard recliners, J-Steel sofa and dinette were not really what we wanted. So once we were done cleaning and tidying, the modification process began. I removed the J-Steel cushions and frame, and then disassembled the dinette. We left the holders for the legs in the floor (at least for now) but other than that the floor was a clean slate for remodeling. We added a nice leather love seat and regular kitchen style chairs and are re-using the table for now. If we decide to add a regular table later we have that option, but right now we like the table that was part of the original dinette.
In the rear, we added a leather chair in one corner and my wife's Grandfathers old wooden rocker in the other corner. I modified a couple of nesting tables with a lamp that is attached which serves as an end table between the two chairs.
I think it makes the rear living area much more cozy. We're very happy the way it came out. We also added a new full queen mattress in the front bedroom (I'm over 6'2").
Here are some pics:
Tom and Sherri
'10 Ford F250 XLT 6.4L Powerstroke, 4X4, Crewcab
'04 Jayco Eagle 308FBS
Excellent job!
stugpanzer wrote:
onasafari,
Excellent job!
onasafari,
Excellent job!
Thanks - I still need to get the nap on the carpet to stand up where the dinette and divider walls were but time and a "carpet rake" of some sort should take care of that ;-)
onasafari wrote:
Thanks - I still need to get the nap on the carpet to stand up where the dinette and divider walls were but time and a "carpet rake" of some sort should take care of that ;-)
stugpanzer wrote:
onasafari,
Excellent job!
onasafari,
Excellent job!
Thanks - I still need to get the nap on the carpet to stand up where the dinette and divider walls were but time and a "carpet rake" of some sort should take care of that ;-)
I agree, it looks very "HOMEY". Have u thought of trying a steam cleaner on that carpet? It may stand up if it were to get wet, and vacuum upwards. And, it never hurts anything to clean it...Happy Camping!
Use a VERY damp cloth over the depressions and then light use an iron to raise the depressions on the carpet.
We have a factory dinette only the trestle style and the leg is always in the way of my feet. That table mount is much more practicable then what we have.
I'm toying with the idea of gutting out the entertainment area to make it larger so I can mount a household stereo in it. I'm told the 4 speakers are fine but our factory radio is junk so we have a surplus from the living room receiver to put into the trailer. How big a sub-woofer would it take to wake up a campground?? LOL
I just haven't figured out how to get the j-steel out, and the loveseat in, through the door.
MarionMedic wrote:
I REALLY like the idea of replacing the j-steel sofa with a comfortable loveseat.
I just haven't figured out how to get the j-steel out, and the loveseat in, through the door.
I REALLY like the idea of replacing the j-steel sofa with a comfortable loveseat.
I just haven't figured out how to get the j-steel out, and the loveseat in, through the door.
Getting the old out shouldn't pose too much of an issue.. You'll just have to do it in pieces.
Getting the new one in WILL be an issue. Most TT's are built from the inside out with exterior walls to be the last being put on.
MarionMedic wrote:
I REALLY like the idea of replacing the j-steel sofa with a comfortable loveseat.
I just haven't figured out how to get the j-steel out, and the loveseat in, through the door.
I REALLY like the idea of replacing the j-steel sofa with a comfortable loveseat.
I just haven't figured out how to get the j-steel out, and the loveseat in, through the door.
It only took me about 15 minutes to get the j-steel couch out. The cushions are bolted (separately) to a frame and the frame is screwed into the walls. I basically disassembled it and took it out in pieces. I did the same thing with the dinette - one piece at a time. Luckily I had a spare battery on the charger for my power screwdriver ;-)
When it came to getting the loveseat in, we measured carefully before we bought and turned the loveseat on end to ease it through the door. We put the top of the back in first and then turned it towards the rear into an open corner of the coach to get the seat area in (like an "L" shape when you tackle it this way). We had to follow the same method to get the leather chair in.
kebmw wrote:
Does anyone know where I can find a picture of the 2 liter plastic bottle on the ends of the awning mod? A few nights ago I was looking at lots of mods on the internet and I saw a picture of it, but I can't remember where now.
Thanks in advance if you can help.
~ Karin
Does anyone know where I can find a picture of the 2 liter plastic bottle on the ends of the awning mod? A few nights ago I was looking at lots of mods on the internet and I saw a picture of it, but I can't remember where now.
Thanks in advance if you can help.
~ Karin
Karin,
I found the post, but I still haven't seen a picture.
Awning & Mildew post
Still looking.
-Joel
"The pursuit of perfection is frustrating and a waste of time. The pursuit of excellence is comendable and worthwhile. Therefore, strive for excellence, not perfection." -Alan Kulwicki
-Joel
"The pursuit of perfection is frustrating and a waste of time. The pursuit of excellence is comendable and worthwhile. Therefore, strive for excellence, not perfection." -Alan Kulwicki
* This post was edited 10/21/07 07:57pm by portscanner *
One beautiful wife, two brittney spaniels
2011 Dodge 3500 4x4 DRW Crew Cab 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed auto, 3.73 rear end
Torklift Stableloads, Superhitch, Torklift Tiedowns
2002 Alpenlite 1150
2005 Jeep Liberty toad w/ ReadyBrake/ReadyBrute
Web Site
They were easy to mount, but the short pins that hold the baskets to the sliders bounced out. A couple of dabs of silicone glue took care of that.
2006 Dodge Ram 3500QC CTD 6-speed SRW
2011 Montana 3465SA Hickory Edition
Husky 16 K Slider
A rainy day camping is better than a sunny day at work.
It plays Cds, DVDs, music on SD cards and USB drives. It has a TV Tuner, bluetooth phone, GPS and rearview camera.
Gordon, Susie, Diane, Catie, Susan, Shawn, Annie, Jessi, Keith, Selena.(Yes, 8 kids)
1 Dog Bonnie.
96 Rexhall Aerbus Class A (The Dawghouse II)
Castaway Campers site
Our Photos
skippy102162 wrote:
Nifty...and how much did that mod cost?
Nifty...and how much did that mod cost?
She wouldn't tell me.
Okay, here's what's new and improved this weekend...
I installed a Xantrex XBM battery system monitor. It a great too for dry camping and really lets you know what is going on with your batteries. I installed the display panel by the door right next to my radio...
You can also see the new two switch panel I installed. One switch is for the radio (which turns on whenever someone bumps it, which is all the time) and the other is for my new step light. I'll have pictures of the light itself as soon as it shows up and I can install it!
I installed the shut and assorted wiring in the battery box...
Speaking of the battery box, I installed a battery cut-off switch a while ago but never put up pictures. This is the three dollar special from Harbor Freight and it works great...
Last but not least, I replaced my rear scissor jacks with new BAL "C" Jack leveler/stabilizers. I'm going to put them up front too but I wanted to try the easier install first (I have to do some customization for the front)...
Nothing like working under the trailer in a ton of ash.
Well, that's what I did this weekend... what about you!?
Mike
This gauge will also start to flash "LO" when the voltage drops to 12.0 volts. You have the option to start the flashing anywhere between 10.0-12.0 volts.
I also installed a FM Modulator behind the radio so I can get my TV satellite XM radio stations anywhere I go with a flip of the toggle switch. This way, when my satellite box and radio are on, I can get any XM station through my radio speakers either inside or outside the RV. All I do is pick the XM station I want to listen to on the TV, flip the switch on, turn radio on, tune to station 87.9 or 88.3 and turn the TV off.
I will also be installing a 12v power outlet on the battery box and have already attached a Sentinel 4-stage battery charger inside the box.
Here is 12v fan I put up next to the TV; shelf below fan and paper plate holder under cabinet:
And the curtains I put up over the bunk windows:
Straps attached to walls in rear to hold up tables, chairs, umbrellas, etc....
I drilled a hole in the sofa back rest support so it could be secured
before going to the full open position. This way, one person can sleep there with more room and the ladder for the bunk bed can still be used.
I bought and installed 2 propane tank gauges.
I put up 2 magazine racks, a clock and small shelves
Here is the counter extension, range extender and sink cover for added counter space
* This post was last edited 11/05/07 11:11am by willoughby *
I added organizers to the closet. $15 at Big Lots.
I added clips to hold my broom and flashlight.
Oh yeah, I put a stick-on towel holder in the bathroom.
I can see that I'm going to have lots of ideas for the spring, though. :-)
30' Keystone Cougar 5'er, Triple Bunkhouse, SuperSlide.
Chevy 3500 1 Ton long box crew cab dually
6.5 Turbo Diesel, 4.11 Rears, LSD, Fresh rebuild spring 2012.
Dieselplace.com Staff Member
Our 2008 western adventure - to the coast and back!
Mark
* This post was edited 12/05/07 11:36am by an administrator/moderator *
* This post was edited 12/05/07 11:37am by an administrator/moderator *
I'll share some of mine but, I have no pics yet.
Removed dinette and installed duel recliner(ok, previous owners did that)but we love it. We eat outside when we camp anyways!
Removed carpet/linoleum and put down wood laminate flooring and turned bed 90* to make more room.
Removed rusty old safety chains, replaced with cables(much cleaner looking).
Changed taillights to LED(6" oval fit in standard housing with slight modification).
Tossed out cheap looking plastic faucets, installed chrome fixture and added sprayer.
(My Fav) I added 12volt, flush-mount white lights at each stabilizer jack and over sewer connection, no more juggling a flash light while setting up after dark(later I will upgrade to LED's).I mounted them in the rocker panel facing down for a "flood light" effect.
This is our first TT, came up from a pop up, so I hate cranking! TT came with electric tounge jack, so it was only right to get a 3/8" socket/drill adapter and a 3/4" socket for the jacks.
I installed a pair of 55wt driving lights up by the rear marker lights and wired into the chasis harness for back-up lights...
* This post was edited 02/08/08 05:55pm by woodyjr8 *
2001 27' Rockwood T8272S TT
2006 Dodge 2500 Cummins 610, 4x4 QC(bone stock)
Will post pics next week.
* This post was edited 12/05/07 11:38am by an administrator/moderator *
Dirk
Myself (37), my Wife(35), "The Boy"(5), & "The Girl" (1)
06 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab, 5.3L V8, 3.42rear
05 30QBSS Trail-Cruiser, Prodigy BC, Reese Dual Cam W/D
Luvnevryminutofit wrote:
Thanks to RVSnowbird and Pulsar, I think I can post some pics now. I had to move my spare tire to the TT passthru when I built my rear bike rack. Since it ate up too much space I went with a new plan. A friend acquired a Ford spare tire winch from an old truck and I cleaned it up. welded in some angle irons and now I have:
While I was in the area I added abattery cutoff switch
Hopefully, more to come!
Thanks to RVSnowbird and Pulsar, I think I can post some pics now. I had to move my spare tire to the TT passthru when I built my rear bike rack. Since it ate up too much space I went with a new plan. A friend acquired a Ford spare tire winch from an old truck and I cleaned it up. welded in some angle irons and now I have:
While I was in the area I added abattery cutoff switch
Hopefully, more to come!
One word of advice. Being a Ford owner with the winch quite a few have failed and dropped their spares with one when towing that did a horrendous amount of damage to the TT ... broken holding tanks, both axles bent and needing replacement and more undercarriage damage ... gas and/or water lines. Likewise some not towing lost their spare and never knew it until they either had a flat or had the need to access it. It might never be an issue with the weight difference in the spares weight from a large truck type tire (probably 100+ lbs.) vs. a much lighter TT spare (less than 50 lbs). Also, always keep some pressure on those Ford spare tire winches since they can bind up and even destroy the cable causing a potential failure or you can end up not being to either lower or raise the tire. I have taken one apart and the problem is the cable is large enough that with will try and unwind w/o tension and jump the nylon holder tracks. I have experience in that since I have the T-shirt and headaches that went along with it. I had to the stock one replace and even the replacment went bad and had to tear it apart and find the actual issues with it. I would recommend using something to positively secure that spare in case of winch failure. On my Van I used crossed chains up to some frame cross members. On my TT I used some much lighter chains, but still secured to the trailer and not 100% dependent on only the winch. One key is whatever secondary method you use is once in place use the winch and lower the tire to see how it will ride with the winch force off with your secondary holding system. You don't want it trying to stand up right under the hitch area.
A dropped spare from my Van or trailer while towing would do thousands of dollars damage to my trailer and potentially causing a loss of control situation.
Larry
* This post was last edited 11/24/07 04:47pm by LarryJM *
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
ALL TRAILER MODS>>ETERNABOND INSTALL>>RAINKAP INSTALL
JeffBett wrote:
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
My Mods
Most my mods are for storage optimization. After doing so many and getting into almost ever inch of my new TT I feel I really know it better and will be able to maintain it better now. One thing I learned is that they don't know what a vacuum is at the factory. I bet I sucked out more then 2 lbs of sawdust, cutout scraps, trim, and extra screws, etc. from the areas they figure we will never see.
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
My Mods
Most my mods are for storage optimization. After doing so many and getting into almost ever inch of my new TT I feel I really know it better and will be able to maintain it better now. One thing I learned is that they don't know what a vacuum is at the factory. I bet I sucked out more then 2 lbs of sawdust, cutout scraps, trim, and extra screws, etc. from the areas they figure we will never see.
Jeff,
I'm just now reading all of this thread and those are some great mods and like you I'm sort of maximizing the storage and convenience type thing and you have done some great mods.
Hats Off to you and great pics.
Larry
kraushad wrote:
I added a wall light switch to one of the overhead 12V lights -- our camper didn't have a wall switch when you entered, so I ran some lamp cord and added my own switch to make it easier to see entering/exiting after dark... nothing to write home about, but more convenient, and looks nice enough to get the coveted "Wifey seal of approval."
I added a wall light switch to one of the overhead 12V lights -- our camper didn't have a wall switch when you entered, so I ran some lamp cord and added my own switch to make it easier to see entering/exiting after dark... nothing to write home about, but more convenient, and looks nice enough to get the coveted "Wifey seal of approval."
This is where I mounted my wall switch, I think the railing add a bit more class to the 5th wheel
* This post was edited 12/05/07 11:40am by an administrator/moderator *
woodyjr8 wrote:
getting some great ideas from ya'll.
I'll share some of mine but, I have no pics yet.
Removed dinette and installed duel recliner(ok, previous owners did that)but we love it. We eat outside when we camp anyways!
Removed carpet/linoleum and put down wood laminate flooring and turned bed 90* to make more room.
Removed rusty old safety chains, replaced with cables(much cleaner looking).
Changed taillights to LED(6" oval fit in standard housing with slight modification).
Tossed out cheap looking plastic faucets, installed chrome fixture and added sprayer.
(My Fav) I added 12volt, flush-mount white lights at each stabilizer jack and over sewer connection, no more juggling a flash light while setting up after dark(later I will upgrade to LED's).Theses are also sold as marker lights(with red/amber lenses)I mounted them in the rocker panel facing down for a "flood light" effect.
This is our first TT, came up from a pop up, so I hate cranking! TT came with electric tounge jack, so it was only right to get a 3/8" socket/drill adapter and a 3/4" socket for the jacks. now I just hit the jacks with the drill, 3 seconds each... and you can't Over tourque the jacks!
I installed a pair of 55wt driving lights up by the rear marker lights and wired into the chasis harness for back-up lights... I have a small jumper wire with inline fuse holder that I can plug into + and back up terms on my plug, incase I need more light aft. one day, I will put a switch in.
getting some great ideas from ya'll.
I'll share some of mine but, I have no pics yet.
Removed dinette and installed duel recliner(ok, previous owners did that)but we love it. We eat outside when we camp anyways!
Removed carpet/linoleum and put down wood laminate flooring and turned bed 90* to make more room.
Removed rusty old safety chains, replaced with cables(much cleaner looking).
Changed taillights to LED(6" oval fit in standard housing with slight modification).
Tossed out cheap looking plastic faucets, installed chrome fixture and added sprayer.
(My Fav) I added 12volt, flush-mount white lights at each stabilizer jack and over sewer connection, no more juggling a flash light while setting up after dark(later I will upgrade to LED's).Theses are also sold as marker lights(with red/amber lenses)I mounted them in the rocker panel facing down for a "flood light" effect.
This is our first TT, came up from a pop up, so I hate cranking! TT came with electric tounge jack, so it was only right to get a 3/8" socket/drill adapter and a 3/4" socket for the jacks. now I just hit the jacks with the drill, 3 seconds each... and you can't Over tourque the jacks!
I installed a pair of 55wt driving lights up by the rear marker lights and wired into the chasis harness for back-up lights... I have a small jumper wire with inline fuse holder that I can plug into + and back up terms on my plug, incase I need more light aft. one day, I will put a switch in.
here are some pics! First is 6 inch oval LEDs in factory tail lights.
ground lights at each jack...
and over sewer conn...
switches for the jack lights and a peek at my laminate floor that I put in last year. switches are easy to use standing outside or you can kick them on or off from inside!
stainless steal handles replace plastic(got them at ace, bath grab bars)
not mine, but same year/model... just to show original sink...
and here is mine, up graded to chrome fixture and added sprayer..
more later! Woody
Claudia & Wayne
Semper Fi
2010 Open Range 399BHS
WHY didn't Noah SWAT those two mosquitoes???
FURNACE SCREENS
Luvpitts wrote:
Why, yes, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! But I see that it says to remove when appliance is in use...
Why, yes, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for!! But I see that it says to remove when appliance is in use...
And the box of Q-tips I have says not to use in them your ears!!!
I have never removed mine (furnace covers) and the appliances have worked fine. I won't tell what I did with the Q-tips.
I have a set of wrought iron furniture that was my mom's in the 50s. It is in good shape, just rusty. I want to paint it, but the rust has me confused. I have wire brushed it, but I don't think it is good enough.
Could/would a car body/painting shop do this for me? prep and paint the furniture?
If I wire brush it really good, then dust it to get the flakes/dust off, could I just spray it with Rustoleum and then let it stay out in the weather? How many coats should I use?
This is a very dear to me set of outdoor furniture, probably not worth much in $, but worth a fortune in memories.
I appreciate the help.
stugpanzer wrote:
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
Peach wrote:
Thanks....I apologize for the dumb questions. Seems they are the only ones I ask.
If I wire brush it really good, then dust it to get the flakes/dust off, could I just spray it with Rustoleum and then let it stay out in the weather? How many coats should I use?
This is a very dear to me set of outdoor furniture, probably not worth much in $, but worth a fortune in memories.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks....I apologize for the dumb questions. Seems they are the only ones I ask.
If I wire brush it really good, then dust it to get the flakes/dust off, could I just spray it with Rustoleum and then let it stay out in the weather? How many coats should I use?
This is a very dear to me set of outdoor furniture, probably not worth much in $, but worth a fortune in memories.
I appreciate the help.
stugpanzer wrote:
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
First of all.....the only stupid question is the one NOT asked.
You should be okay with doing that with the wire brush and then some enamel paint (spray or brush). I would first prime and then paint with the enamel. You might need two coats plus the primer.
1997 F-350 CC PSD DRW
2005 Jayco 31BHS
1990 Sunline 1150 TC
Dad
, Mom, Two teenage girls
, Fido the wonder dog
.
RBaker3967 wrote:
I built a heavy duty 6" bumper to replace the 4" bumper so I can fit all my sewer hose, hose support, and fittings in it. Plus built on a 4 bike rack. Also you can see the supports I made for the jacks.
I built a heavy duty 6" bumper to replace the 4" bumper so I can fit all my sewer hose, hose support, and fittings in it. Plus built on a 4 bike rack. Also you can see the supports I made for the jacks.
hey that jack support looks odly enough like a stop sign pole hmmmm???? i wonder where that came from
TV 1997 GMC SUBURBAN, 92 Mustang Rag Top
1986 34ft Nomad , Days camped in 2010=30
Eric 35,Tammi 40,Anthony 16,Julia 14,Jason 12,Briana 10,Ashley 8,Robert 5
Regardless, it is an ingenious design mod.
busch2fan wrote:
I can't speak for the OP, but I would think that side to side scissor jacks are faily stable in their standalone design. It is front to back where there is the majority of the movement, thus the design of the BAL Stabilizer Bars.
Regardless, it is an ingenious design mod.
I can't speak for the OP, but I would think that side to side scissor jacks are faily stable in their standalone design. It is front to back where there is the majority of the movement, thus the design of the BAL Stabilizer Bars.
Regardless, it is an ingenious design mod.
I hate to be one to argue... But the Scissor jacks pivot side to side.. that is where a a vast majority of wiggles comes from. If you think about it, if you are on level ground, wheels chocked, you shouldn't get any forward/reverse movement.
Aside from the tongue jack and the wheels, there isn't much to prevent the side/side wiggle as the scissor jacks are hinged and the more they are extended, the more they will allow side/side movement.
His MOD is ingenious... I am pretty sure it works pretty well at further reducing wiggle.
RBaker3967 wrote:
Man you guys are sharp. They are sign posts, not the heavy kind they use on big signs, but the ones they use for reflectors. I did put one on the front too. The trailer is so long it only cured about half the sway. I got rid of the rest of the sway with another set of jacks just in front of the tires.
Man you guys are sharp. They are sign posts, not the heavy kind they use on big signs, but the ones they use for reflectors. I did put one on the front too. The trailer is so long it only cured about half the sway. I got rid of the rest of the sway with another set of jacks just in front of the tires.
Actually, I have an extra set of jacks and was thinking of the same thing. Mounting them right in front of the tires.
These are Pickup bed load locks. I use them on the front and back and one down the length of the trailer.
This greatly reduces the trailer wiggle you feel, especially with three kids running around the trailer.
Later I will make something more permanent, but for now these serve dual purposes, lock the wood in the bed and reduce wiggle.
2001 Chevy Silverado.
2007 Fleetwood Mallard BHS
Traveling companion
Ben & Melissa
1 Spoiled Golden
33 Foot Prowler, 2004
Peach wrote:
Can you tell me more about the 22 Caliber BB's? A friend suggested using a 22 with a special bullet that wouldn't carry as far as regular 22 bullets.....snip
Can you tell me more about the 22 Caliber BB's? A friend suggested using a 22 with a special bullet that wouldn't carry as far as regular 22 bullets.....snip
Careful, the Moderator may close down the thread if we lose sight of "Cool
Mods" subject matter. To much good stuff here. Turk2500
* This post was edited 01/23/08 08:17am by an administrator/moderator *
take pictures.....leave bubbles
04 1500 ram 4x4
08 hornet 27b hideout
Photo edited to conform to RV.Net guidelines
Moderator
* This post was edited 05/19/08 06:02pm by an administrator/moderator *
Lou
1959 Streamline 28'
Starband on a tripod
1960 Avion H-24 - gone to a better place
It gives me the rear view that I need during back up and during driving.
Others are posted on my blog.
"...we're on the road again..." MODS & More
2007 Dodge 2500 Megacab Laramie, 6.7L Cummins, 6 Speed Auto, Exhaust Break
2006 Sunset Creek 298BH by SunnyBrook, 33 1/2 ft
heitjer wrote:
This is my personal favorite:
It gives me the rear view that I need during back up and during driving.
Others are posted on my blog.
This is my personal favorite:
It gives me the rear view that I need during back up and during driving.
Others are posted on my blog.
Heitjer, can you post a pic showing how you mounted that? Thanks.......
http://heitjer.blogspot.com/2007/12/camper-mod-backup-camera-ready-to-roll.html
Bryan
and my Parsons Russell Terrier, Melvin 
1999 Chevrolet Tahoe 4D 4WD 5.7L 3.73" Rear End
Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam Weight Distribution Hitch
Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller
2008 Jayco Jay Flight G2 20BH and Mods
heitjer wrote:
This is my personal favorite:
It gives me the rear view that I need during back up and during driving.
Others are posted on my blog.
This is my personal favorite:
It gives me the rear view that I need during back up and during driving.
Others are posted on my blog.
That's a pretty good idea. I have an Avic-Z2 Nav System in my truck and it supports a camera system, I've thought about wiring something up like you have. I'm assuming your carputer can switch between the two cameras (TT and TV?)? I don't think mine can do that but I might be able to make a switch for it.
2007 Four Winds/Thor Hurricane 34B w/ 2006 Chevy HHR TOAD
2002 Ford Explorer --> 2004 Ford Expedition & 2008 Gulf Stream Gulf Breeze 23 TRS
1994 Ford Explorer & Coleman PU
Okay, it didn't come through big enough to read. I added a cabinet closer (about 1/2" high) directly above and one directly below that screen door slidy thing. All you have to do to open or close the screen door now is push.
How do I submit a thumbnail pic that will open in a larger pic if you click on it? Or, conversely, what is an idea size for a pic to show on page?
COPD and LVRS
On the Road Again
My Home - 2002 Glendale Titanium, 32/37DS
Our Home's Leader - Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel Dually
Our Leaders - Pounce Perfect(Dog-At Rainbow Bridge), Taco Terror (Dog), Sam Social (CAG) & Nellie Nuisance (Kitten)
StugPanzer - I just posted a few pics on the blog if you want more detail you can PM me and I send you close ups.
TreeHugger - yes - here is my setup. I switch between Computer, Truck Camera or Camper Camera.
* This post was edited 01/26/08 10:31am by heitjer *
very thread, so I thought it suiting to post up the new mods right here in this thread.
First mod... bubble level.
Next mod... those cool battery powered "push" lights. I attached them in each lower
cabin with velcro. Work really well.
This is a photo of the ugly, plastic, sun eaten entry handle. It really wasn't any good
as it wouldn't support ANYTHING, and was actually too small to even put a hand in.
You can see the mildew on our screw cover rubber. You can also see where the paint
was ruined due to a break in. That will be touched up later.
This is what we replaced it with.
Here is the shower curtain holder. Cheeeeeeesy. Non working fan as well.
We actually decided to keep it up and use those wire shower curtain holders to be
able to hang up wet bathing suits in the shower. But, we went ahead and put up a
new curtain rod with new curtain. Replaced the switch for the fan.
I saw something similar in this thread, but this one is magnetic. Usually used for tools
and screwdrivers and other things. Works great for this.
New toy for keeping an eye on the weather. Mounted next to the bed.
Maybe we'll have some more soon.
I just picked up a2007 Max Lite ML28 RS Click on the link to see the pictures.
I was wondering where to put a few things in the bathroom so thanks for the pictures.
I have a few mod's planned for the TT:
If you look along the bottom there is pin striping that is brown, I don't like it so I want to cover it with white reflective tape then along the brown skirt I want to add LED lights along the side of the TT.
I want to replace all the existing lights with LED lights for brighter visibility at night
The stabilizer jacks, I made an adaptor for a cordless drill so I do not have to crank them down.
2007 Max Lite ML28 RS
1999 Ford E 350 Super Duty 15 Passenger Ext Van
6.8L V10 / 3.73 Gears
out with the old...
in with the new...
Replaced on each side of the bed and over the rear bed too...
John
Ted
2007 Surveyor SV291
2010 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab LT
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS
Added a TP holder/magazine rack combo. No holes needed to drill into the new TT.
And a holder and hiding place for the broom.
Jennifer, and her family of six. Two of those being furry babies...one girl (Yorkie, Layla) and one boy (retired Greyhound racer Fernando aka Nando)
2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 5.7L
2008 North Trail 28BHS
Where did you find the TP Holder/magazine combo?
Looks like just the thing to have around!!!
Nice job.
This is actually the second rack I built as the first one was very boxy and quite ugly. I went back to the drawing board and came up with this idea. It's basically 3/4" heavy wall conduit bent and welded with a cross bar and some home fabricated mounts. I think I spent approx $23 on it incuding the paint and grade 8 bolts w/ lock nuts.
There was a post yesterday about storing your weight dist bars and I may go back and incorporate something along the line of the "Bar Buddy" to hold them. I like their concept.
This is how the rack mounts to the A-frame.
Any comments would be appreciated. Happy Campn'
(If the ice ever melts!!!)
2006 Nissan Titan CC SE - With BigTow
2007 Ameri-Camp LE T326LE
"Smokey & The Bandit"
"State Park bound and down, loaded up for campin'"
Our CampSITE
Ag2000CO wrote:
Fixed the whole in my floor
Fixed the whole in my floor
And the rusted in half frame too I hope.
When I stuck a scratch-awl through the floor and realized it also went through the frame, it just made my day! That sure slowed down restoration.
Trailer Mods
Larry
That's somes nice mods very good work. I think I'll do the water heater drain hose. k
Nice mods. I also added the fence post cover to hold our sewer hose.
I added a heavy plastic drawer next to the hose holder near my dump valve. I place our sewer connectors, dump hose, flush king, hand sanitizer & gloves in there.
I always hated putting that stuff in my front storage area.
I'm thinking now about adding a shelf to the long cabinet over our bed. There is a lot of unused space there.
Luvnevryminutofit that bike rack is awesome!
Has anyone done anything to the long wardrobe type closest along side the bed?
Who brings clothes on hangers camping? Not us.
Currently I have plastic stackable drawers in there, but they only sit about halfway in, so there is a lot of lost space.
I wonder if it's worth shelving & maybe using baskets?
In August I tore off our antenna. Yes, I neglected to lower the antenna & the trees we were parked under decided to keep the antenna. Well, now I need to replace it & was thinking about one of those satellite dishes with the omni directional antenna attached to it. Anyone have any experience with that set up?
The fancy dome satellites are way out of my budget, but I could spring for one of those crank-up ones with the antenna attached.
I've read that those omni directional antenna's are not nearly as good as the winegard booster ones. Any input?
Thanks, Pam
Pam, Sharon & Emma
Sometimes Kris & Will "Big Boy"
Bella(Yellow Lab/Golden Mix) & Piper(Black Lab mix)
2002 Yukon XL SLT with Timbrens
2008 Jay Feather 31V
Days Camped in 2012 - not nearly enough!
He had this Phillips HD/Antenna he said he had bought at Target and he was getting a bunch of channels! We have the standard antenna that most campers come with and our booster, and could only get one very badly.
You might want to try that before you spend high dollars replacing the stock antenna. This Phillips model just hooked right to the TV and was very small.
Good luck, and sorry to hear about your antenna.
Has anyone done anything to the long wardrobe type closest along side the bed?
Who brings clothes on hangers camping? Not us.
Currently I have plastic stackable drawers in there, but they only sit about halfway in, so there is a lot of lost space.
I wonder if it's worth shelving & maybe using baskets?
We put the wire shelves in 2 of our 3 hanging clothes closets. Attached the larger size quarter round with HEAVY Duty Velcro. Measured the width of the shelving, Home Depot cut the shelving for me. For the Deep shelves that are beside the bed I just used 2 pieces of the shelving material as those closets were really deep.
Fred & Jodie, dogs, Zoey & Mika
RIP Bella
2010 F150 5.4, 3.55, 4x4, Equli-z-er Hitch
2007 Forest River Salem 27RB LE
and
2009 Nomad 3980
Thanks for the pictures on the shelving.
I normally don't like the wire shelves, but they are light weight & easy to move around. I can see that they also let more light into the cabinet than wood shelves would.
Ok, now I have my next interior project to work on....lol.
Pat, thanks for the info on the antenna.I am still on the fence about what to do, but an interior antenna might just work for the local channels since I like to drag our Directv satellite along on most trips. I know, I know, I used to be one of those campers who would look at campers with sat dishes as being ridiculous, but here we are a few years later dragging ours along.........lol.
Gotta love camping with all the comforts.....
2012 Ford F-150 V8 5.0
2014 Cougar X-Lite 28RBS
The last 5 shots are new.
cgrisham wrote:
Here's one of my favorites. It protects the jack head (power jack) and gives me a place to hang the chains, and umbilical to protect them from the weather, too.
Here's one of my favorites. It protects the jack head (power jack) and gives me a place to hang the chains, and umbilical to protect them from the weather, too.
I made one of these this weekend. I used a 15 gal white plastic trash can and three 3" S hooks. Very easy mod.
Rob Abraham
2007 Jag II 23
http://i11.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/9b/35/e4ee_1_sbl.JPG
Searching for our next TT Rv as we speak. Please let me know any good deals out there.
jeeptp75 wrote:
I am just wondering how are people attaching things to the walls of their trailers. Expecially the flat panel tv's. I would love to do that but worried about it pulling out of the wall. What do you need to do special to make sure what you attach stays attached
I am just wondering how are people attaching things to the walls of their trailers. Expecially the flat panel tv's. I would love to do that but worried about it pulling out of the wall. What do you need to do special to make sure what you attach stays attached
Take a piece of plywood large enough to span two wall studs on your wall (either use nice looking wood piece with routered edges or cover with the same wall covering as your trailer). Mount your TVs mounting bracket to the piece of plywood (you can through bolt in to the plywood). Now you can mount the plywood to your wall...............should give you the added support you are looking for.
2008 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2008 Keystone Raptor 3712TS
Forgive the less than ideal quality pics - it was cold and dark in the TT and I was trying to capture the "flaming logs" - pics are a little grainy...
Les
We have a new KZ Spree on order and it has all aluminum framework.
Thanks,
John
John
Wife - Renee
and 2 boys ages 16 and 11
everymilesamemory wrote:
4 AMG 6-volt batteries mounted to the A-Frame of the TT
4 AMG 6-volt batteries mounted to the A-Frame of the TT
What's the chances we could get a couple more pics of this from different angles and without the ice???
Jnbaun wrote:
I have another question about mounting a tv on the wall. What would you use to attach to aluminum studs to give everything enough support?
We have a new KZ Spree on order and it has all aluminum framework.
Thanks,
John
I have another question about mounting a tv on the wall. What would you use to attach to aluminum studs to give everything enough support?
We have a new KZ Spree on order and it has all aluminum framework.
Thanks,
John
If it were me, I'd just drill a pilot hole in the metal stud and screw a sheet metal screw right in. That'll definitely hold it.
Yes, those metal studs are just as supportive, if not more, than wood studs.
My bumper is not the strongest in the world, but it is all steel. I can stand on the rear edge of the rack with my 200 lbs and I only get a slight flex in the bumper closer the the middle/spare tire side. The other side is attached right by where the bumper is attached to the frame and is very strong. I may have to get a piece of plywood to fill in the base if I decide to carry anything that will not be in the Rubbermaid tubs, but I'll worry about that when it comes up.
PVC spring bar storage
PVC clothes rack
electric jack cover/chain holder
Hat & key rack
plug holder
PVC bike rack
Pass through/under bed seperator wall
Homemade tire chocks
Under sofa storage drawer
Pete Mohr, Whitehall, PA
'97 Suburban 454
'06 Jayco Jay Flight 29FBS
Jayco 29FBS Mods
Jnbaun wrote:
I have another question about mounting a tv on the wall. What would you use to attach to aluminum studs to give everything enough support? We have a new KZ Spree on order and it has all aluminum framework. Thanks, John
I have another question about mounting a tv on the wall. What would you use to attach to aluminum studs to give everything enough support? We have a new KZ Spree on order and it has all aluminum framework. Thanks, John
John,
The aluminum studs within the outer TT wall structure will be stronger than those utilized within most inner room divider wall studs. Also, anything mounted to a TT wall will be subject to the bounce & vibrations transmitted through the TT while towing (rear of TT is the most susceptible).
For piece of mind, insure that the correct sheet metal screw is used. I'm also assuming that you are mounting one of those lite-weight flat screen tv's.
Turk2500
LED lighting for the undercarriage.
Our sat set up.
* This post was edited 03/25/08 08:31pm by RollingRockTX *
2006 Ford F250 King Ranch PSD
ARP Headstuds
ERG Delete
Diesel Site Coolant Filter System
Gearhead Performance Tuned, via XCALII, Edge Insight CTS
MBRP 4" Turbo Back, cat delete
MagHytech Rear Dif Cover
2011 Ford Expedition, HD Tow
2011 Cruiser CF33LF, KC5PFG
Bathroom is so small it's dificult to even change your mind in there. I added a privacy curtain outside the door to make a large changing area.
New bath faucet. The spout is a pullout sprayer.
Other Mods Kitchen faucet, step light, slinky storage, outdoor antenna hook up, Concertone fix (digital LCD HDTV), counter top extension, plexiglass panels on screen door, and storage lighting.
Working on solar panel and second battery set up.
* This post was last edited 04/26/08 09:21am by handye9 *
Check out my mods
08 F250 Crewcab,4X4, SB
5.4, 4.10 gears
Flowmaster exhaust, SCT tuner
12 Flagstaff 831FKBSS (TT) and 00 Maverick 8801 (TC)
Wife and I
USN MCPO (E9) Retired (active duty 1973 - 1995)
Quote:
My recent project. This is a great thread BTW.
LED lighting for the undercarriage.
My recent project. This is a great thread BTW.
LED lighting for the undercarriage.
Looks good RR, do you have the same under the KR?
See you on the F-150 site
2006 Sandpiper 325 BHD
2006 Ford F-250 King Ranch V-10
16K Drawtite slider hitch
Welfarewagon wrote:
Looks good RR, do you have the same under the KR?
See you on the F-150 site
Quote:
My recent project. This is a great thread BTW.
LED lighting for the undercarriage.
My recent project. This is a great thread BTW.
LED lighting for the undercarriage.
Looks good RR, do you have the same under the KR?
See you on the F-150 site
Hey there, I do have the LED kits in the map and interior dome lights...as well as LED's in the KR running boards. Just ordered the LED lit for 3rd break light to finish it off. I will post those on the KR section.
Cheers
JP
For the 5er, I put some LED's in the reading lights over the master bed and a few in the overheads to save on power while dry camping (in the event we do that)
Quote:
For the 5er, I put some LED's in the reading lights over the master bed and a few in the overheads to save on power while dry camping (in the event we do that)
For the 5er, I put some LED's in the reading lights over the master bed and a few in the overheads to save on power while dry camping (in the event we do that)
Where are you buying them at? I have seen some recommend Superbrightled.com.
Welfarewagon wrote:
Where are you buying them at? I have seen some recommend Superbrightled.com.
Quote:
For the 5er, I put some LED's in the reading lights over the master bed and a few in the overheads to save on power while dry camping (in the event we do that)
For the 5er, I put some LED's in the reading lights over the master bed and a few in the overheads to save on power while dry camping (in the event we do that)
Where are you buying them at? I have seen some recommend Superbrightled.com.
I think you are thinking of this company.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/index.htm
And yes I have bought from them, however, I had to return all the LED's as I got the wrong ones, but I will say they do have good price the site is somewhat hard to navigate around on.
So I found this site http://www.autolumination.com/
Tracy and Chris are GREAT to work with. After looking at both vendors, I think they have more choices and better quality LED's.
Most RV's use a 921 bulb for inside but a 194 will also fit, they just won't be very bright. I put 194's over our bed.
My advice when thinking of going to LED's is to buy a few different ones and see how they work for you before buying a bunch.
I thought about swapping out all my marker lights but at 7 bucks each, it's not worth it to me. I have 7 amber lights and 7 red lights, that adds up quickly and those don't run off the batts so there is no real benifit to using them other than the "cool" factor.
Quote:
I thought about swapping out all my marker lights but at 7 bucks each, it's not worth it to me. I have 7 amber lights and 7 red lights, that adds up quickly and those don't run off the batts so there is no real benifit to using them other than the "cool" factor.
I thought about swapping out all my marker lights but at 7 bucks each, it's not worth it to me. I have 7 amber lights and 7 red lights, that adds up quickly and those don't run off the batts so there is no real benifit to using them other than the "cool" factor.
Yea just like the $$ I spent for my Hella LED tails on the F-150, unnecessary but way cool. Thanks for the help, I am leaving out this weekend for spring break with the family but will look into your suggested site once I get back home next week.
Welfarewagon wrote:
Yea just like the $$ I spent for my Hella LED tails on the F-150, unnecessary but way cool. Thanks for the help, I am leaving out this weekend for spring break with the family but will look into your suggested site once I get back home next week.
Quote:
I thought about swapping out all my marker lights but at 7 bucks each, it's not worth it to me. I have 7 amber lights and 7 red lights, that adds up quickly and those don't run off the batts so there is no real benifit to using them other than the "cool" factor.
I thought about swapping out all my marker lights but at 7 bucks each, it's not worth it to me. I have 7 amber lights and 7 red lights, that adds up quickly and those don't run off the batts so there is no real benifit to using them other than the "cool" factor.
Yea just like the $$ I spent for my Hella LED tails on the F-150, unnecessary but way cool. Thanks for the help, I am leaving out this weekend for spring break with the family but will look into your suggested site once I get back home next week.
we did our spring break last week, jealous of you, I could use another week. Make sure you get photos and post em up.
Cheers, drive safe have fun.
Here's just a general pic of the outside
And another from the other side
Hot water heater screen cover
Furnace screen cover
Fridge vent covers
Sewer hose storage all closed up
Opened up
The TT had the small switches for the lighting and I really like the bigger ones so just inside the front door and the bath got these treatments.
I'm not a huge fan of the plastic camper lights on the ceiling so those got replaced and so did the ugly decorative fixture over the dinette. I used regular 110 volt house fixtures with 12 volt A15 bulbs.
The two round lights are switched by the door but i had to reuse the 12v switch from teh ugly fixture for the spot lights.
We have a dog so a bag holder near the door is a must
Every camper needs a soap dispenser and a paper towel holder. I also reused one of the double plastic ceiling lights over the sink rather than the small single one that was there.
The bed area didn't have any shelving that was open to put a clock on so..
The original theater system (seen on bottom shelf) with DVD player built in just wasn't cutting it quality wise so I added a Sony home theater receiver and kept the original one for the DVD player alone.
The 20" TV that came with the camper was nice but it wasn't HD so we replaced it with a 26" HDTV and a swivel arm mount.
Can't live without the Oxygenics shower head
Added a positive flow shut off to it
And of course, no one likes a clingy shower curtain or water getting everywhere so we added clip holders and corner water stops.
There's a few more things (digital thermostat replacement, counter top extension) I want to do before our maiden voyage in it but these are a good start. If anyone has any questions on what I posted feel free to ask away!
Fantastic job on the mods. Thank you for sharing. I especially appreciate seeing how the mud dauber screens look, I just ordered them a couple of days ago. One question about the corner shelf and television bracket...how do you fasten to the walls? I'm nervous about drilling into the walls but do have a electronic stud finder, should I use metal screws? if so, how long?
Thanks again.
Deb & Cathy
Shilo Ann - 10 yr old Xolo
Milford, CT
2006 Puma 29FKSS
As far as the clock shelf goes, there weren't any studs in that corner that I could attach to so I just used the plastic wall anchors since I knew we wouldn't be putting enormous amounts of weight on it.
I used 1" screws with the plastic wall anchors.
Really like Sewer hose set-up. Did you make that? Or something you purchased and modified? Would appreciate hearing some details ... I'm in need of something like that.
Thanks!
He used wood for the end stops. I didn't want something that was prone to rotting so I used a short piece of 1/2" PVC and two caps. I just made the pipe short enough that the screws on the outside clear the ends of the fence post cover going in and out. I also wanted mine to be hinged so I purchased two small hinges to attach to the top of the end cap. I put a 1" spacer between the fence post cover and the frame on the sealed end so that the excess water would run to that end then drilled 3 holes at teh bottom of the cap for it to drain out.
To attach it I purchased a piece of all thread and two mending plates, all available at your local Lowe's. I used 8 small washers and 8 lock nuts to hold it there.
Inventory list to build sewer hose storage:
1 - 4x4x100" Post Jacket cut to length
2 - End caps (located with the fence jacket)
1 - Raingo 10' white "U" shaped gutter cut to length
1 - 1/2" diameter piece of PVC
4 - 1/2" PVC end caps
2 - Brass hinges, something like this should work
1 - bag of Mini bungee cords
1 - 3' piece of 1/4" all thread (cut to length)
2 - 6" mending plates
8 - 1/4" washers
8 - Nylon thread lock nuts
For the 1" spacer at the low end I used a piece of a 1"x2" PVC baluster between the frame and the storage compartment.
* This post was edited 03/30/08 04:42pm by Loopy *
Loopy wrote:
The wall that I have the TV mounted to has a support in it from the factory since that's where the original TV was mounted. The upper half of the wall is one big solid piece of wood. If you don't have this in your trailer you can still find two studs and at worst mount a board on the exterior of the wall from one stud to the other and mount it to that. The TV mount I used actually had all teh screws in one vertical row so even if I hadn't had the support in the wall I could have mounted it directly to one stud.
As far as the clock shelf goes, there weren't any studs in that corner that I could attach to so I just used the plastic wall anchors since I knew we wouldn't be putting enormous amounts of weight on it.
I used 1" screws with the plastic wall anchors.
The wall that I have the TV mounted to has a support in it from the factory since that's where the original TV was mounted. The upper half of the wall is one big solid piece of wood. If you don't have this in your trailer you can still find two studs and at worst mount a board on the exterior of the wall from one stud to the other and mount it to that. The TV mount I used actually had all teh screws in one vertical row so even if I hadn't had the support in the wall I could have mounted it directly to one stud.
As far as the clock shelf goes, there weren't any studs in that corner that I could attach to so I just used the plastic wall anchors since I knew we wouldn't be putting enormous amounts of weight on it.
I used 1" screws with the plastic wall anchors.
I'm always looking for new ideas though so everyone keep em coming!
Those are some nice mods.
Where did you get these fridge screens? Are they store brand or did you make them? I have the HW heater and the furnace, but never saw the fridge vent sold in stores, yet.
PS. I like the sewer hose holder. Neat
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
The only ones I found at RVWholesalers was the R300 for the Norcold ones. RVWholesalers says they are for all fridge vent covers but if you go directly to the Mud Dauber website and click on screens and then R300 it shows that it's for the Norcold specifically and the R600 shows for the Dometic, so be careful.
I thought for sure when I called my dealer for a price on this they were going to bend me over. Believe it or not I got the 15 3/4" X 15 3/4" piece of counter and both hinges for around $40. It's a small price to pay for an extra piece of real estate and not having to build something myself.
Pictures will follow once I get it installed.
RollingRockTX wrote:
Our sat set up.
Our sat set up.
How does that sat. setup work? Do you just put it flat on the ground or do you attach it to the trailer?? We just got sat. to go camping with. Swore we'd never have it since the DH works for the cable company and gets a deep discount. We wanted to take the dish off the side of the house and take it with us since we will NEVER use it at home. Is this feasible?
Kim the DW - 39
Greg the Cableman & DH - 42
Danielle & Gabrielle the DD's - 10 & 7
Noah & Andrew the DS's 8 & 6
'07 F-150 Supercrew 5.4L
1999 24' Skamper SK 249
SoLoved77 wrote:
How does that sat. setup work? Do you just put it flat on the ground or do you attach it to the trailer?? We just got sat. to go camping with. Swore we'd never have it since the DH works for the cable company and gets a deep discount. We wanted to take the dish off the side of the house and take it with us since we will NEVER use it at home. Is this feasible?
RollingRockTX wrote:
Our sat set up.
Our sat set up.
How does that sat. setup work? Do you just put it flat on the ground or do you attach it to the trailer?? We just got sat. to go camping with. Swore we'd never have it since the DH works for the cable company and gets a deep discount. We wanted to take the dish off the side of the house and take it with us since we will NEVER use it at home. Is this feasible?
Yuppers, just set on the ground and use your signal finder and a compass and you are good to go.
Found the plans here
Found the plans here and an explanation of how it works like this.
RollingRockTX wrote:
Yuppers, just set on the ground and use your signal finder and a compass and you are good to go.
Found the plans here
Found the plans here and an explanation of how it works like this.
Yuppers, just set on the ground and use your signal finder and a compass and you are good to go.
Found the plans here
Found the plans here and an explanation of how it works like this.
In that link, the 4" vertical piece needs to be a lot longer, the farther north you want to go.
Up here in the State of Washington, you need an elevation of 31 degrees. With this inverted setup, that would actually be 59 degrees.
In Dallas, the angle is about 51 degrees, or 39 degrees because it's inverted. That difference of 20 degrees will require a much taller stand.
(The reason that I call it an 'inverted' setup is that your D*TV box will tell you an elevation 'above the horizon'. But, with this stand, you start with the dish pointing straight up and need to angle it downward, so 90 minus whatever D*TV says. This is explained in the link, also.)
2006 Jacyo Jay Flight 27.5BHS
1998 C2500HD X-Cab LB, Rhino Liner, 16k Dual-pivot Husky Hitch, Prodigy Brake Controller
Prev: 2003 Northern Lite 10-2000CD
Go Cougs!
Loopy wrote:
Well, I picked up my Jayco branded counter top extension (flip up TV shelf) today.
I thought for sure when I called my dealer for a price on this they were going to bend me over. Believe it or not I got the 15 3/4" X 15 3/4" piece of counter and both hinges for around $40. It's a small price to pay for an extra piece of real estate and not having to build something myself.
Pictures will follow once I get it installed.
Well, I picked up my Jayco branded counter top extension (flip up TV shelf) today.
I thought for sure when I called my dealer for a price on this they were going to bend me over. Believe it or not I got the 15 3/4" X 15 3/4" piece of counter and both hinges for around $40. It's a small price to pay for an extra piece of real estate and not having to build something myself.
Pictures will follow once I get it installed.
And here are the pics as promised. The shelf wasn't difficult to mount, it was the reinforcement of the side of the cabinet that was the bear.
I finally got around to removing the front scissor jacks and replacing them with another set of BAL "C" jacks. I also added BAL's stabilizer bars...
I then took two of the now spare scissor jacks and mounted them to the frame (with a spacer to clear some dump pipes) just in front of the axles...
This setup and really reduced unwanted trailer motions in all directions. There is hardly any yaw or bounce which makes me very happy when sleeping in!
I also decided to add a set of backup lights. I didn't want them all the way in the rear because I can't really see back there anyway. I placed them up front where they shine along the sides of the trailer and also show the wheels...
The beam pattern looks good in test but with the time change, I probably won't test these in real life until the fall.
Last but not least, I also finished my generator (and other stuff) racks. I posted these in a new thread since there is always a lot of interest in that sort of thing...
Rear bumper generator (and other stuff) rack
Mike
BTW, my Husband is cursing this tread!! ;o)
Marianne
sweetpnuts wrote:
Okay, why would I want a screen over my fridge and whatever vents?? I feel like I am totally missing something obvious!! *lol*
BTW, my Husband is cursing this tread!! ;o)
Okay, why would I want a screen over my fridge and whatever vents?? I feel like I am totally missing something obvious!! *lol*
BTW, my Husband is cursing this tread!! ;o)
The screens keep the wasps, bee's and spiders out of your appliances.
Bill Simonds
'99 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom
330HP "Yellow" motor
'94 K5 Blazer 4X4 toad
SoLoved77 wrote:
How does that sat. setup work? Do you just put it flat on the ground or do you attach it to the trailer?? We just got sat. to go camping with. Swore we'd never have it since the DH works for the cable company and gets a deep discount. We wanted to take the dish off the side of the house and take it with us since we will NEVER use it at home. Is this feasible?
RollingRockTX wrote:
Our sat set up.
Our sat set up.
How does that sat. setup work? Do you just put it flat on the ground or do you attach it to the trailer?? We just got sat. to go camping with. Swore we'd never have it since the DH works for the cable company and gets a deep discount. We wanted to take the dish off the side of the house and take it with us since we will NEVER use it at home. Is this feasible?
04/04 F350 Dually Lariate, 4x4, CC, LB, Auto, Firestone air bags, Bilstein shocks, custom on board air system, cat back 4" Aeroturbine muffler. Two place over head ATV rack, third ATV in the bed.
Four Winds 27BH
Here's another!!
6" PVC pipe mounted up under TT frame
Threaded end cap and chain for security, also drilled air holes into cap
Used a vent cap at front of tube for airflow
This may just be the handiest mod I've done yet... LOVE IT!!!!
travlcampnfuls wrote:
busch2fan, that is a nice mod. what length and what type paint did you use? estimated cost?
busch2fan, that is a nice mod. what length and what type paint did you use? estimated cost?
It's an 8' section of pipe that I got out of the salvage pile at the contractor supply yard. The only thing I had to buy was the 23 degree elbow, and end fittings. Those cost me about $30. If you had to buy the main pipe... you're probably looking at around $50/$60 total.
I used Rustoleum gloss back for the paint. Not for any particular reason other than that's what I had in the paint cabinet. LOL!!!
Hope this helps!
Jeff
See link in signature for more photos.
2001 Bigfoot 24DB (Class C)
2006-2011: 2006 Jayco 275BHS (5th wheel)
2002-2006: 2003 Northern Lite Ten-2000CD (truck camper)
2002-2011: 1998 Chevrolet C2500HD for hauling camper and towing 5er
Lee
TMBLSN wrote:
I did a similar mod, but used ABS pipe, which comes black, so no need to paint.
See link in signature for more photos.
I did a similar mod, but used ABS pipe, which comes black, so no need to paint.
See link in signature for more photos.
For the love of Pete, tell me that's not mud dobbers I see???!!!
2000 F-150 XLT 4x4 Sport with all the options
Prodigy BC
2006 Nash 26x
1200# Equalizer Hitch
2007 Kipor KGE 3500TI Genny
DW: (Reunited Teenage Sweethearts)
DS: 13 yo (baseball fanatic)
Man's Best Friend: 50 lbs of love and joy aka "Daddy's little helper"
Mine looks the same way.
Jeff
2009 Rockwood Signature Ultra Light 8317SS
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 QC LB Hemi
DW Kelly and DD
We don't have mud dobbers in WA.
Added this fishing pole holder yesterday. Picked it up at Walmart. Very easy to install. Gets one more thing off the floor of the storage compartment.
Jennifer
* This post was edited 04/19/08 03:48pm by fourcamping *
This is something I want to do, too, instead of having the rods all jumbled up with everything else. Gotta' go to Walmart for a portable oven today so might as well stop in the sporting goods section!
My first mod: Velcro tabs on the inside of the cabinet that holds the TV - one for the TV remote and the other for the radio/CD/DVD remote. We had kept them in a drawer - now they have their own space.
Now I'm going to get some velcro tape to help hold the dinette cushions in place. The Wave had it, the Sprinter doesn't.
Also, now that we have a nice clothesline in the shower for hanging wet clothes or towels, we no longer need the long shower rod we'd had in the Wave. But it will go in the huge cabinet over the sink to divide that cabinet in half. (The cabinet is accessible from front and back, and this will keep my plates/glasses/bowls from sliding all the way back to the other side.
My blog: Wanderlust
'08 Keystone Sprinter 250RBS travel trailer
'10 Nissan Titan
MAN Rv
Dan and Karen
Son #1 Chris
Son #2 Will
Daughter Beth
2009 Tundra Crewmax TRD, 5.7l and 2008 Rockwood Roo 23SS
Loopy, we have a '08 Jayco JayFlight G2 23FB & the furnace vent looks the same as yours. We have the Atwood Hydro Flame 8500 furnace. I've been trying to find the Mud Dauber screen for it but unsuccessful so far. Everyone I've found differs from yours. Rather than being simply round, it is rectangular with the round protrusion in the bottom half of the screen. Were I to use that one, half of the screening would be above the furnace vent resting on the side of the TT. What is the brand name of yours, model # & where did you buy yours. Thanks for your help,
Wayne
* This post was edited 04/21/08 08:38pm by mehwwh *
Ram&Roo wrote:
Here's an interesting rv. Have a look thru at the mods they put in. I like the quad storage.
MAN Rv
Here's an interesting rv. Have a look thru at the mods they put in. I like the quad storage.
MAN Rv
How do we know what the mods are what was OEM?
mehwwh wrote:
Furnace screen cover
Loopy, we have a '08 Jayco JayFlight G2 23FB & the furnace vent looks the same as yours. We have the Atwood Hydro Flame 8500 furnace. I've been trying to find the Mud Dauber screen for it but unsuccessful so far. Everyone I've found differs from yours. Rather than being simply round, it is rectangular with the round protrusion in the bottom half of the screen. Were I to use that one, half of the screening would be above the furnace vent resting on the side of the TT. What is the brand name of yours, model # & where did you buy yours. Thanks for your help,
Wayne
Furnace screen cover
Loopy, we have a '08 Jayco JayFlight G2 23FB & the furnace vent looks the same as yours. We have the Atwood Hydro Flame 8500 furnace. I've been trying to find the Mud Dauber screen for it but unsuccessful so far. Everyone I've found differs from yours. Rather than being simply round, it is rectangular with the round protrusion in the bottom half of the screen. Were I to use that one, half of the screening would be above the furnace vent resting on the side of the TT. What is the brand name of yours, model # & where did you buy yours. Thanks for your help,
Wayne
Don't ask me how they catagorize these screens or how I figured out which one was correct but the following link will have exactly what you need.
Follow me to your correct Mud Dauber screen!
Camera cables running into a junction box to connect with the run to the front of the TT.
Used the available 4 pin connector to get power for the camera. Used the parking lights feed for the 12VDC.
Connect coax cable from the truck to TT camera via "F" type to BNC type adapter.
7" LCD visor mount monitor.
My wife a few feet behind the TT in the dark. The camera has night vision!
Fence gate about 6' behind the TT
06 Dodge Ram 2500HD MegaCab 4x4, Cummins I6 5.9 CIT, 3.73 gears
Prodigy brake controller, Reese dual cam sway/WD
08 Jayco Eagle 314BHDS
2001 Glide Lite Wanderer by Thor
2005 F150 Super Crew
2004 Scion XB
3 VonderFUL Chitlens
and Darla Bean and Chico man
Our fun times!
In the past 50,000 miles we've traveled, many of those roads were along back roads, dirt roads and roads that looked like a blind grader operator had finished them. On a few occasions, we've had the doors on the refrigerator or freezer come open which allowed the contents to spill out all over the camper floor.
This is not what you want to walk into when you first pull into camp.
So I put on my thinking cap and came up with this little ingenious idea.
It was simple, under $10 and was finished in under 10 minutes.
I started with some Heavy Duty Ring Hangers that I had found in the picture hanging section of the hardware store. They have multiple sizes to choose from, I just grabbed two packages of the biggest ones they had on the shelf. They came two per pack.
I screwed one ring hanger on each side of the freezer and refrigerator doors. I centered them to the straps would hold the middle of the doors when they're strapped in.
Once I had the ring hangers screwed in - This took all of one minute each, and there was four total, I measured and cut some Velcro strap material so I would have enough to go around each ring hanger and still have plenty of Velcro to get a good bite on itself.
Now that I had the Velcro cut, I fed it through the ring hangers and tested it to make sure I had enough strap.
Once I knew everything worked properly, I can leave the Velcro straps hanging on the hinge side of the refrigerator and not have to worry about storing them or even putting them away.
When we're ready to drive off, I can strap the fridge closed and never have to worry about the doors opening up and losing any of our precious food.
Spring is finally here and it's time to go Camp'n!!!!
Two 2.5" square U-bolts and some nylon hose and some drilled holes and nuts.
2008 Pace Arrow 33V
8.1 Workhorse
_________________________
Last RV
2005 2500 Avalanche 8.1/3.73
2004 30' Terry Quantum 290FLS
Calgary Alberta
The mfg didn't put a heating vent in the bathroom so when it's cold outside we would have to leave the door open to get heat in the bathroom. While cleaning the vents this spring I realized that the ductwork went a good 9 inches into the bathroom so I bought a 4" round HVAC vent with a adjustable damper built into it and cut a hole between the toilet and the wall to install it. The door can be left closed and and the room stays comfortably warm for a shower, or for reading a magazine
Sahm I am's Husband
2006 Chevy Silverado 3500, LT3 CC/LB 4WD SRW LBZ Duramax/Allison
Keystone Cougar 327RES
Curt Q5 20K / Prodigy Brake Control / Rotochocks / Trail Air
Rallies attended: "
" Sleepovers
3
I was thinking of doing something along those lines but I decided to keep locking up the bars in the front pass-through when stored or at the campground. I'd be in a world of trouble getting home if some yahoo decided to steal them.
When I'm at home (gated property) I just lean them against the brackets on the tongue.
Still, very well done.
Mike
chris0275 wrote:
Question, Has anyone build a mod for compartment storage? I looked at some slide out trays and they are a pretty penny. I have a large storage bin in the front of my camper but its hard to reach all the way in. A large sliding tray would be awesome. Any Ideas?
Question, Has anyone build a mod for compartment storage? I looked at some slide out trays and they are a pretty penny. I have a large storage bin in the front of my camper but its hard to reach all the way in. A large sliding tray would be awesome. Any Ideas?
One guy on this thread, javaseuf, built a slide out deck for his TT. I'm betting you could get those rails and build yourself a drawer that slides out.
2008 Tundra DC Limited 4x4 5.7L 4.30 gears "towing rocket"--Paid for!
Motor Trend's 2008 Truck of the Year
2009 Outback 310BHS Equal-i-zer, Prodigy, 9000lbs, 35ft
chris0275 wrote:
Question, Has anyone build a mod for compartment storage? I looked at some slide out trays and they are a pretty penny. I have a large storage bin in the front of my camper but its hard to reach all the way in. A large sliding tray would be awesome. Any Ideas?
Question, Has anyone build a mod for compartment storage? I looked at some slide out trays and they are a pretty penny. I have a large storage bin in the front of my camper but its hard to reach all the way in. A large sliding tray would be awesome. Any Ideas?
I bought a couple of the following at Target and use them in my rear pass thru to stow things in the middle. That way I could use every inch of available space w/o having slides/wood and more wt. in the rear of the trailer. They are the ones w/o wheels and are 43 1/2" long, 19" wide and 7 " deep. IIRC they were just over $20 each.
Larry
I was thinking of attaching two casters just inside the lip of my storage. My Rubbermaid already have wheels on one end. I figure the casters would allow me to pull out the rubber made over the lip without scraping. I think it would be easier and save the space the rails would chew up. With casters near the lip in transit movement wouldn't be a problem either.
I am thinking a picture is the best way to illustrate this idea.
2003 Toyota Sequoia
2001 Coleman Sun Valley CT - sold
2004 Fleetwood Redwood Highlander - sold
2008 Freedom Lite 279TB
kaymann wrote:
Just an idea...
I was thinking of attaching two casters just inside the lip of my storage. My Rubbermaid already have wheels on one end. I figure the casters would allow me to pull out the rubber made over the lip without scraping. I think it would be easier and save the space the rails would chew up. With casters near the lip in transit movement wouldn't be a problem either.
I am thinking a picture is the best way to illustrate this idea.
Just an idea...
I was thinking of attaching two casters just inside the lip of my storage. My Rubbermaid already have wheels on one end. I figure the casters would allow me to pull out the rubber made over the lip without scraping. I think it would be easier and save the space the rails would chew up. With casters near the lip in transit movement wouldn't be a problem either.
I am thinking a picture is the best way to illustrate this idea.
What I do is simply pull both of the plastic storage boxes to the edge and then the top on will slide out and I have a piece of plywood that I lay inside the compartment so when removing the bottom one it doesn't hit the lip on the door frame. That way I can use all my storage area w/o installing anything permanently or taking up space or weight with things like slides, supports, plywood frame/panels.
Larry
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
Here is our floorplan:
I removed the jack-knife couch from the bunkhouse:
And installed a convertible crib:
This crib will convert to a partial gate toddler bed, and a full open toddler bed as Cameron gets older.
A couple L brackets hold it secure to the floor.
The open spaces next to the crib have become the perfect places to store our bag chairs, thule shelf, and patio mat.
Enjoy!!
Jeff
Our TT mods!
I hope the link works to my Photobucket account!
KLO wrote:
Well after all this time of reading about other mods I decided to share what we have done with our 1984 HR Alumilite. She may be old but she's paid for!
Our TT mods!
I hope the link works to my Photobucket account!
Well after all this time of reading about other mods I decided to share what we have done with our 1984 HR Alumilite. She may be old but she's paid for!
Our TT mods!
I hope the link works to my Photobucket account!
The link does work... nice mods.
This is my first try at posting pics so here goes nothing . . .
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
Before
After
Kim
Kim
Flashlight Holder
Magazine Rack
Kitchen Before
After with Spoon Rack
After with Wine Glass Holder
Above the cabinets we have a big wasted area so my husband put a lip on the edge of the cabinet and now it holds my pots and pans.
Bedroom TV
Bathroom Sign - my husband being funny!
Soap Dispenser and Tooth Brush Holder - held down with velcro!
Over the Door Towel Holder
Garbage Mod - we have two large labs who are constantly getting into the garbage so my husband came up with this to hide it under the sink. Since we moved the pots and pans we had plenty of room.
Before
After
That's all for now - I'm sure I will have more in the next week or so.
Thanks for looking!
Kim
got yfz? wrote:
We have spent the past few weeks follwing this thread and doing several mods to our toyhauler so I thought I would share since I love looking at the pictures.
This is my first try at posting pics so here goes nothing . . .
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
Before
After
Kim
We have spent the past few weeks follwing this thread and doing several mods to our toyhauler so I thought I would share since I love looking at the pictures.
This is my first try at posting pics so here goes nothing . . .
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
Before
After
Kim
looks great, what did it take to flip them?
Like the pics as well as the mods. like the soap dispenser/tooth brush holder with the Velcro idea. how about the bedroom TV, looks to me like you built a shelf to hold the TV, but what else holds the TV in place ? Can you travel with it in place? Please explain.Thanks Sunline1
sunline1 - The trailer already had the shelf, we used the stand that came with the TV. We adjusted the stand and placed a square piece of plastic under it until we could see it in bed and then we screwed it down. The TV has never moved and we travel with it like that. We have velcro all over the trailer - all our remotes are velcro'd to the wall so we don't lose them.
Bonals Family - I am pretty sure we got the towel holder at Wally World - it's an over the door towel hold so we just screwed it to the door.
It's a good thing we did it though we had an equalizer that the bushings were shot in and had to be replaced.
Kim
got yfz? wrote:
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
and added a tool box to the truck !!
Your rig looks nice !
Steve Webber
'07 F250 6.0PSD LariatFX4 LB,AirLift,Edge,IFW BedSlide
'09 Jayco Eagle 324BHDS "CramalotInn III",Reese DCHP, Atwood 3500, BAL Deluxe Chocks, Weber Baby Q & Q200, Champion 2000W Inverter & 4000W gennie's
My Camping Pic's
got yfz? wrote:
Thanks!
sunline1 - The trailer already had the shelf, we used the stand that came with the TV. We adjusted the stand and placed a square piece of plastic under it until we could see it in bed and then we screwed it down. The TV has never moved and we travel with it like that. We have velcro all over the trailer - all our remotes are velcro'd to the wall so we don't lose them.
Bonals Family - I am pretty sure we got the towel holder at Wally World - it's an over the door towel hold so we just screwed it to the door.
Thanks!
sunline1 - The trailer already had the shelf, we used the stand that came with the TV. We adjusted the stand and placed a square piece of plastic under it until we could see it in bed and then we screwed it down. The TV has never moved and we travel with it like that. We have velcro all over the trailer - all our remotes are velcro'd to the wall so we don't lose them.
Bonals Family - I am pretty sure we got the towel holder at Wally World - it's an over the door towel hold so we just screwed it to the door.
AHA! Screw it to the door!!!! I love that! We have five of us so there always towels hanging from cupboards, I hate that. And the curtain idea is brilliant and is my next mod, so we can have more elbow room while getting dressed.
got yfz? wrote:
Bucky - we took it to a spring shop to have them do it. I have heard it's not too bad you buy the dexter kit and then it takes some welding from what I've heard. We didn't have the capability to get the axles off the ground or a welder. Most dealers will do it for a few hundred bucks. For the size of our trailer we thought it would be easier to have someone else do it.
It's a good thing we did it though we had an equalizer that the bushings were shot in and had to be replaced.
Kim
Bucky - we took it to a spring shop to have them do it. I have heard it's not too bad you buy the dexter kit and then it takes some welding from what I've heard. We didn't have the capability to get the axles off the ground or a welder. Most dealers will do it for a few hundred bucks. For the size of our trailer we thought it would be easier to have someone else do it.
It's a good thing we did it though we had an equalizer that the bushings were shot in and had to be replaced.
Kim
Thanks. I may look into it this winter.
* This post was edited 05/18/08 09:05am by Luvgoose *
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax/Allison
2008 Jayco Eagle 322FKS
DH,DW,2 DD's, Charlie-Chocolate Lab and Chloe-Cocker Spaniel
Luvgoose wrote:
Well, DH loved the mods for the sewer hose carrier and decided to build one for our new TT. He took the basics from what he saw on this site and mixed it up just a bit. I hope the link works; I tried posting pics before and they loaded across the page instead of from top to bottom (thanks Mr. Moderator for fixing that for me!). The key changes he made were to add a vent midway through the post and attached the end caps with rivets and a spring so you can just pull it down and under the post without it actually coming off or dangling by a cord.
Well, DH loved the mods for the sewer hose carrier and decided to build one for our new TT. He took the basics from what he saw on this site and mixed it up just a bit. I hope the link works; I tried posting pics before and they loaded across the page instead of from top to bottom (thanks Mr. Moderator for fixing that for me!). The key changes he made were to add a vent midway through the post and attached the end caps with rivets and a spring so you can just pull it down and under the post without it actually coming off or dangling by a cord.
The spring Idea is pretty cool....will it rust?
Great idea with the flashlight holder and Magazine Rack!
But I have one question: In the picture of the Magazine Rack why is there a flashlight in there? Shouldn't the flashlight be in the flashligt holder
dougsee3 wrote:
My Equal-i-zer storage
Two 2.5" square U-bolts and some nylon hose and some drilled holes and nuts.
My Equal-i-zer storage
Two 2.5" square U-bolts and some nylon hose and some drilled holes and nuts.
-------------
Nice idea but we just place the bars back on the L-Bracket and slip the L-Pin back on and they stay the same way yours do. They are kind of balanced on the L-Bracket.
No Mods but an easy way to keep them off the ground and out of the way.
Bill B. (Michigan)
2007 Dodge Ram 2500 MegaCab CTD
2007 Jayco Eagle TT Model 322FKS
Les
New Aluminum Wheels
Entertainment Center showing fireplace, Panasonic Surround Sound and center speaker (in cabinet behind TV) and left and right front speakers and sub-woofer.
New Cabinet door installed on the back side of fireplace
New SurFlo 4 GPM pump used with 2 gallon accumulator
Shutoff valve installed on accumulator (not new but never had picture)
Home made winterizing valve
Left and right satellite speakers
Panasonic Surround Sound Amplifier and disk player
Not finished all the mods I have in mind for this first blitz.
I got a great deal on a 22 gallon barker blue tote
I removed my spare from the back bumper and built this
I recycled the u bolts from my spare carrier and picked up two cheap spare carrier mounts at Princess Auto
I made it large enough to carry a couple fold up chairs,I also stuff 50' of heavy gauge cord in there.
I coated it many times with outdoor stain, all the lumber is pressure treated, and all joints are siliconed. I used galvanized fasteners and alot of PL Premium construction adhesive. I used 1" x 1/4" self adhesive weather stripping on the trailer siding and compressed the box tightly into it. There were zero signs of rubbing after our only 400 mile trip. The lock is a typical canopy style T handle from my local rv dealer. Total cost around 80$, but i get some great deals
Needing a place to store the spare I used a bunch of leftovers from other mods to make a rack under the frame in front of the axles.I used Superstrut(rated for seismic bracing), 1 1/2" angle iron, and some fancy self cutting 3/8" bolts.
These superstrut spring anchors cost me over 2$ each!
I had lots of stain and plywood left over so the toolboxes really only cost me 2 more t handle sets, 2 more piano hinges, and 12 sets of spring anchors, grade 8 bolts, and lockwashers. I used 2 6" galvanized 1/2" carriage bolts to secure the tire to another piece of susperstrut above the rack. Nearly 15$ for the pair, I carry an cordless impact driver with me anyways so didn't want to mess with mounting a crank. I lightly greased the bolt threads so they should drop off easily on the side of the road
I used some heavy gauge carrying channel (used to brace steel stud framing) inside the box to prevent the plywood from crushing. Lining up 6 bolts inside a surprisingly heavy box without popping those spring anchors was a ridiculously frustrating experience.
This pic was taken with the camera nearly on the ground and makes it look flush with the frame, in fact they are a few inches recessed, none of these are lower than my sewer connections. From anywhere close to the trailer you can't even tell the boxes have handles.
Total cost counting new carlisle spare and rim was about 250$ but i had alot of misc laying around and got a good deal on the spare at you guessed it, Princess Auto.(one of my favourite toy stores)I torque'd every bolt to appropriate force, I plan to check them all a few times a year, I used lockwashers on everything so hopefully nothing will loosen over time. I used a combination of foam and rubber gasket to keep these boxes watertight.
Have a few more I'll post later. Thanks for this awesome thread. I've gotten so much inspiration from these pages.
PS: We only bought this trailer 8 weeks ago and last weekend was her maiden voyage. Everything worked like a charm!
Rob
Nice mod's. did you make the entertainment center with the fireplace. Man that's beautiful. Sunline1
I also mounted my Blue Tote underneath the trailer in a similar fashion but the tote drops down for removal off the square tubing by removing the hitch pins on either side...
To sunline 1 - thanks for the nice words... I'll tell you the fireplace story... When the wife and I went to the RV show last January we saw the fireplaces in the new Nomads... I asked my dealer how much the option was and could he get me one... He said he could and it listed for about $400
!!!The wife and I went shopping and didn't find anything right away but some weeks later Home Depot had a 50% off sale on them... Only problem was it came with a nice Oak enclosure (mantle)... Well, at 50% off the $380 list price, that brought it down to $190 and we sold the Oak enclosure on Craigslist for $50 the next week, so my cost on the fireplace was about $140 - considerably less than the $400 bucks my dealer wanted...
Originally, there were double doors on the lower part of the cabinet where the fireplace is... I removed the center stile and had to fashion some filler pieces on the left, right, and top to close up the gaps... I then covered the wood pieces with wood finish sticky vinyl to match my cabinets that I bought from my dealer...
The fireplace is also a little heater too... Not much heat but enough to knock off the chill in the evening or morning... The intensity of the "flame" (lamps) is also adjustable with a knob in the right side door on the top of the fireplace... Here's a few pics on that too... Forgive the slightly blurry pictures - it was dark and cold in the TT when I took them without the aid of a tripod... Note that in the left hand fireplace picture, the OEM Surround Sound system had not yet been replaced...
I also added a few AC power outlets - one in the cabinet interior for the fireplace and one on the left side of the slide... That was my wife's request so we could position our verticle floor fan on the other side of the room not have it blow directly on her (she hates that
)... I didn't post pictures of them because there isn't much interesting in seeing a picture of an AC outlet ... I'll be doing a Dexter HD suspension conversion (this is the one with greasable bolts and the EZ-Flex idler)in a month or so and I'll take a bunch of pictures as I progress through the installation... Here's a pic of that kit...
And finally - here is the link to my Nomad3150 Mods page on photobucket for anyone interested...
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b191/nomad27/Nomad%203150%20Modifications/
Les
* This post was edited 05/19/08 06:42pm by LAdams *
1: Custom made a medicine cabinet by cutting into the bathroom closet, affixed a balsa wood box with shelves and covered with a cabinet door that matched.
2. Installed a custom shower rod that makes it much more roomy when using the shower. Changed the faucets from plastic to more attractive chromed look plastic. changed to oxygenics shower head.
3. Removed one dinette seat and replaced the table with a moveable table with two chairs. Now we can take the table and chairs outside. Recovered the remaining bench seat.
4. Removed all of the window valences and blinds. Replaced with cafe curtains so they can be laundered easily. A necessity in the desert.
5. Installed lcd tv/dvd player combo. DH moved the speakers from the sound system that with the TT over our heads into the cabinet above the beds. Now we can listen without having to turn it up too loudly.
6: Removed the queen bed and replaced with twin bunks with large storage containers underneath. We now have room for a nice looking plastic 3 drawer storage unit that holds LOTS of things and provides a resting place for drinks. glasses etc. Also made a straight path to the bathroom, so night trips are much easier.
7: Added plexi glass removable panels to the door so that we don't lose the view when using the a/c or the heat.
The main theme is beach. We have restrained ourselves slightly, but the grass skirts around the beds give it away!
We are always thinking about what is next. We have as much storage as much larger units, and it is fully customized for us.
Steven (the MAJor driver)
Debbie (DW and travel diva)
Max the wonder dog (scruffy terrier mix)
Ladybug (basenji/shepherd mix)
And two noncamping cats
95 Bounder 35U newly arrived 31 Jul 08
Toad free for now
But it's a DRY heat....Las Vegas
got yfz? wrote:
We have spent the past few weeks follwing this thread and doing several mods to our toyhauler so I thought I would share since I love looking at the pictures.
This is my first try at posting pics so here goes nothing . . .
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
Before
After
Kim
We have spent the past few weeks follwing this thread and doing several mods to our toyhauler so I thought I would share since I love looking at the pictures.
This is my first try at posting pics so here goes nothing . . .
The first thing we did was flip the axles for more ground clearance
Before
After
Kim
NICE. Did you just do a 'springover' (our drop axle perches are under the axle tube, I was going to simply weld new perches above the axle tube and reinstall) or did you flip the drop axles?
edit: nevermind. I just read that you had a local dealer do it. Good photos, though.
* This post was edited 05/20/08 02:49pm by mbryson *
traveldiva wrote:
We bought our 21' Rockwood used. After the floor threatened to collapse after 3 months due to extensive water damage, unknown at time of purchase, we had to take most of the interior out and remove the flooring down to the studs. We then dried everything, replaced the insulation and put in laminate flooring throughout. Once that had been done, we thought, well....so:
1: Custom made a medicine cabinet by cutting into the bathroom closet, affixed a balsa wood box with shelves and covered with a cabinet door that matched.
2. Installed a custom shower rod that makes it much more roomy when using the shower. Changed the faucets from plastic to more attractive chromed look plastic. changed to oxygenics shower head.
3. Removed one dinette seat and replaced the table with a moveable table with two chairs. Now we can take the table and chairs outside. Recovered the remaining bench seat.
4. Removed all of the window valences and blinds. Replaced with cafe curtains so they can be laundered easily. A necessity in the desert.
5. Installed lcd tv/dvd player combo. DH moved the speakers from the sound system that with the TT over our heads into the cabinet above the beds. Now we can listen without having to turn it up too loudly.
6: Removed the queen bed and replaced with twin bunks with large storage containers underneath. We now have room for a nice looking plastic 3 drawer storage unit that holds LOTS of things and provides a resting place for drinks. glasses etc. Also made a straight path to the bathroom, so night trips are much easier.
7: Added plexi glass removable panels to the door so that we don't lose the view when using the a/c or the heat.
The main theme is beach. We have restrained ourselves slightly, but the grass skirts around the beds give it away!
We are always thinking about what is next. We have as much storage as much larger units, and it is fully customized for us.
We bought our 21' Rockwood used. After the floor threatened to collapse after 3 months due to extensive water damage, unknown at time of purchase, we had to take most of the interior out and remove the flooring down to the studs. We then dried everything, replaced the insulation and put in laminate flooring throughout. Once that had been done, we thought, well....so:
1: Custom made a medicine cabinet by cutting into the bathroom closet, affixed a balsa wood box with shelves and covered with a cabinet door that matched.
2. Installed a custom shower rod that makes it much more roomy when using the shower. Changed the faucets from plastic to more attractive chromed look plastic. changed to oxygenics shower head.
3. Removed one dinette seat and replaced the table with a moveable table with two chairs. Now we can take the table and chairs outside. Recovered the remaining bench seat.
4. Removed all of the window valences and blinds. Replaced with cafe curtains so they can be laundered easily. A necessity in the desert.
5. Installed lcd tv/dvd player combo. DH moved the speakers from the sound system that with the TT over our heads into the cabinet above the beds. Now we can listen without having to turn it up too loudly.
6: Removed the queen bed and replaced with twin bunks with large storage containers underneath. We now have room for a nice looking plastic 3 drawer storage unit that holds LOTS of things and provides a resting place for drinks. glasses etc. Also made a straight path to the bathroom, so night trips are much easier.
7: Added plexi glass removable panels to the door so that we don't lose the view when using the a/c or the heat.
The main theme is beach. We have restrained ourselves slightly, but the grass skirts around the beds give it away!
We are always thinking about what is next. We have as much storage as much larger units, and it is fully customized for us.
Wow!! Do you have pictures? I would love to see your beach theme!!
thanks,
Malu
North Shore of Lake Erie
1997 Roadtrek 190 Popular - "Camposauras B"
Les
1. I knew that the plumbing for our outdoor shower was exposed in the rear storage compartment, but the gravity of this matter came to light when I slid our folding table into the storage area which pushed a basketball into the pipes for the outdoor shower and caused a shower inside the storage compartment. Fortunately, it was just a pipe that popped off a connection and it was an easy fix. This is what it looked like before:
To correct this design defect, I built a cage around it to prevent any future damage:
2. We also didn't have enough private room in the bath area to be able to change after a shower, so I added this privacy curtain:
It seals with velcro on both sides when the curtain is closed:
3. Our last trailer had almost no countertop space. We love the countertop space on our new trailer, but it still isn't enough, so I suspended this wire shelf from the cabinets so we can keep more of the countertop clear:
...
multi-hook from dollar store.
Baskets for storage.
More baskets
Baskets in cabinets.
Basket for cleaners and bug sprays.
* This post was last edited 06/18/08 12:45pm by Spoiledb71 *
DH,DW Two kids & 1 spoiled rotten mutt
Below is the after image from the rear looking towards the old tank. The axle was slightly in the way for a straight run of the pipe to connect to the existing pipe, so I played it safe and put in a flexible hose section at that point so there would not be any extra stress on the hard plastic pipe at the point.
The Original tank claimed to be 36 gal but only held about 27, and I added 36 more. Tonight I did a test with 5 gallon buckets and the 2 held 62 gallons, that should help. I still need to add a vent hose. The guy at a local RV repair shop suggested I just run a little hose up into the wheel well, as long as it is higher then the tank. Right now it just has a vent hole drilled at the top edge.
My costs were:
$104 Tank $45 + 59 shipping
$33 Angle Iron
$18 plumbing parts
$155 Total
2012 Ford F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab 4X4 6.7L PSD
2009 Jayco Octane ZX 26Y
Hensley Arrow
Daryl/Sue, part time kids and 2 GC
2013 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE
2012 Chevy Silverado CC 4x4
w/HD tow pkg.
Voyager BC
Reese Dual Cam WD/Sway
TT GPS.
Full-Time RV'rs - Grandma, Grandpa, & Petunia, 8 yr old Chi
Your mind is a Garden, Your thoughts are the Seeds,
You can grow Flowers, Or you can grow Weeds.
ScottandCathy wrote:
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
Wow. 109.00!!!
Cal & Donna
Starr (our Lab mix)
2000 FourWinds Chateau 31S
Rickson 17.5 Wheels and Toyo tires
Sani-Con Sewer Solution
Pressure Pro System
1996 Grand Cherokee Toad W/Ready Brake System
Rand McNally RVND 5510
Bigfoot Levelers
The faucet doesn't extend tho I wish it did.It's an Utopia Hi-Rise. We got it from Coast a few years ago. You have to be in the RV or boat repair business to buy from them. We're in the boat end. Your RV dealer may do business with them and can order one for you. I really love it, I can wash the pot's and pan's without fighting the faucet!
dougsee3 wrote:
My Equal-i-zer storage
Two 2.5" square U-bolts and some nylon hose and some drilled holes and nuts.
My Equal-i-zer storage
Two 2.5" square U-bolts and some nylon hose and some drilled holes and nuts.
dougsee3, Great mod! Great idea! I too needed somewhere to put the Equal-i-zer bars. I chose to put them a little more "out of sight".
Mark.
'08 Chevy Avalanche LT3 6.0L (366hp) 4.10's
'12 Rockwood Signature 8312SS. Equalizer/P3
'06 Honda EU3000iS TomTom ONE 130-S GPS.
Me
('71), DW ('70), DD ('01), DD ('04). A wiseman once said "GIT-R-DONE"
'13 nights camped- 02
CAMPING PICS & MODS
This was just a unused space next to the wardrobe in the bathroom and was deep enough to reuse some oak trim I saved from an old medicine cabinet.
This shelf I picked up at a yard sale for $2! Gave me instant shelves in the wardrobe.
Added this shelf above where the tv sits just inside the door, handy for cell phones and sun glasses.
This is under where the tv sits so we have a place for DVD and PS2.
Hanging shelf in the top of the pantry.
Wire shelves to expand pantry storage.
Small shelf added for dry goods in bottom of pantry.
I guess this qualifies as a shelf since I did have to add wood to create a bottom in the unused space under the oven. I do remove the contents when the oven is being used, which is not very often.
z_i_m wrote:
i wanted a way to heat our TT without having to use gas if possible and i love the fireplace setting............so, i purchaced the smallest arrowflame with 2 heat settings and realistick flame just plugs into outlet and is under the ampridge........i removed the door and shelf that i was not using and framed up around it.......also made a cutout as to get to all wiring and fabricated a speaker grill held in place with velcro.......this was done on a jayco 29n.....it also has a remote for heating and i can set flame hieght (low to high).....this is a 24'' fireplace insert, so would work in any area opening.....one more thing........i built the TV shelf to house the home theater and the 27'' sharp on it.....so i killed 2 birds with 1 stone......electric heat and the joy of just looking at a fireplace setting.....we even use it in the summer without the heat on.......sorry on the blurry photos...had wrong setting on cam at the time
i wanted a way to heat our TT without having to use gas if possible and i love the fireplace setting............so, i purchaced the smallest arrowflame with 2 heat settings and realistick flame just plugs into outlet and is under the ampridge........i removed the door and shelf that i was not using and framed up around it.......also made a cutout as to get to all wiring and fabricated a speaker grill held in place with velcro.......this was done on a jayco 29n.....it also has a remote for heating and i can set flame hieght (low to high).....this is a 24'' fireplace insert, so would work in any area opening.....one more thing........i built the TV shelf to house the home theater and the 27'' sharp on it.....so i killed 2 birds with 1 stone......electric heat and the joy of just looking at a fireplace setting.....we even use it in the summer without the heat on.......sorry on the blurry photos...had wrong setting on cam at the time
Very nice work! I've been looking in to doing something like this. I have about a 36" area to work with so I should be able to have some choices. Just curious...why did you go with electric? Do you always have hookups?
'03 Cadillac Escalade ESV 6.0L Auto 3.73LS AWD
Camperless for the time being...
Very nice work! I've been looking in to doing something like this. I have about a 36" area to work with so I should be able to have some choices. Just curious...why did you go with electric? Do you always have hookups?
Bud
2004 Carriage Compass
2009 Dodge 3500 Quad Cab 6.7 CTD
TruControl, B&W Companion
Schnauzer- Sir Winston
leesan wrote:
I saw a few days ago the counter extension you have in your trailer. It looks pretty nice.I need something like that so I sent my husband to Home Depot to buy the materials and they don't carry those type of brackets. Where did you buy your stuff at? I would appreciate if you let me know. Thanks
I saw a few days ago the counter extension you have in your trailer. It looks pretty nice.I need something like that so I sent my husband to Home Depot to buy the materials and they don't carry those type of brackets. Where did you buy your stuff at? I would appreciate if you let me know. Thanks
Just sent you a PM but here is the link to the original post on the Counter Extension.
Have Fun
Counter Extension with all needed parts, etc.
Fan is wired thru the wall and into the light fixture next to it.
Hi/Lo fan switch.
Chuck Roder & Family
'07 Surveyor SV-235RS
'03 Chevy TrailBlazer EXT LT V8
High Springs, FL.
Pictures
I used a hose storage reel to store the electrical cord. It also has a storage bin that I use to hold my adapter plugs and my gloves.
Since I don't like clutter, I added storage reels for the cable, hose, and extention cord.
* This post was edited 06/29/08 02:50pm by In The Dawghouse *
Any camping is good camping!
DH & DW , DD x 2
2008 Salem 27RB LTD
Yukon XL 1500 5.3 SLT 2WD
Prodigy BC, DC Reese WD, Scan Gauge II
Days camped in 2008 -38-
Days camped in 2009 -30-
Days camped in 2010 -25-
Some wheels to keep from grinding the back of the TT too bad (needed a little help with our driveway!
Closet mod that I found on this thread - we're not sold on the velcro, this is a work in progress.
1
2
And the ever-trusty clothes line. Found that pool noodles keep you from ripping open a leg!
2012 GMC Sierra 2500HD
2008 Flagstaff 27BHSS
I. A. F. F. Local 2704
FyrFytrDad wrote:
Here's some of our latest adds:
Some wheels to keep from grinding the back of the TT too bad (needed a little help with our driveway!
Closet mod that I found on this thread - we're not sold on the velcro, this is a work in progress.
1
2
And the ever-trusty clothes line. Found that pool noodles keep you from ripping open a leg!
Here's some of our latest adds:
Some wheels to keep from grinding the back of the TT too bad (needed a little help with our driveway!
Closet mod that I found on this thread - we're not sold on the velcro, this is a work in progress.
1
2
And the ever-trusty clothes line. Found that pool noodles keep you from ripping open a leg!
Just for kicks I setup a video camera in the trailer on our last trip. The shaking, vibration and noises while going down the road are crazy!
BTW... you motorhome guys are killing us with these cool mods in those huge basement storage compartments (that we'd love to have)!
Mike
Mike Schriber wrote:
Hey z_i_m... does that mount hold okay going down the road? I just installed a 26" LCD in my trailer and decided to use a post mount and feet to keep it stable since none of the arms I looked at seemed up to the task (pictures to follow soon).
Just for kicks I setup a video camera in the trailer on our last trip. The shaking, vibration and noises while going down the road are crazy!
BTW... you motorhome guys are killing us with these cool mods in those huge basement storage compartments (that we'd love to have)!
Mike
Hey z_i_m... does that mount hold okay going down the road? I just installed a 26" LCD in my trailer and decided to use a post mount and feet to keep it stable since none of the arms I looked at seemed up to the task (pictures to follow soon).
Just for kicks I setup a video camera in the trailer on our last trip. The shaking, vibration and noises while going down the road are crazy!
BTW... you motorhome guys are killing us with these cool mods in those huge basement storage compartments (that we'd love to have)!
Mike
[quote=jdubh2]Where did you get those wheels and were they welded on or bolted? I need those.
Quote:
Mike Schriber wrote:
BTW... you motorhome guys are killing us with these cool mods in those huge basement storage compartments (that we'd love to have)!
Mike
BTW... you motorhome guys are killing us with these cool mods in those huge basement storage compartments (that we'd love to have)!
Mike
I have seen a few trailers with big storage areas. My last motorhome was a Pace Arrow that had teeny tiny little storage bays.
I have gotten some of my best mods from you guys here on the trailer forum. The Class A guys don't seem to do alot of mods.
MSG Tony, USAF, 20+ years
Back from my 6 month "Summer in the Sand" Vacation
Vader1 aka Jay
Wif aka Kim
Bear aka #1 pug
Chewy aka #2 pug
05 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 - Yeah it's got a HEMI
08 Crossroads Zinger 30BH
2010 F-150 XLT-XTR - Max Tow
2011 KZ Durango 305BH
Husky Airbox Revolution 16K Hitch
Teddy Rufus (Standard Schnauzer)May 8, 2010
Top Pop Rails -3 bikes
Since I already had the TV platform and it has a very sturdy top, I decided to go with a pole mount rather than an arm. I just drilled straight through the top and bolted it down.
It was still wobbly with just the pole (the TV tends to yaw side to side) since there is so much mass suspended. I used cap head bolts and aluminum tubing to make four tall legs that screw into the holes for the base. I capped them with little hose caps as feet and it seems to work great.
The TV is a 26" so it's no lightweight to be sure.
I don't know why I bothered to upgrade the TV since we hardly ever watch but at least I lost some weight, gained some counter space and have an ATSC tuner now!
Mike
are nice. much brighter than the incandescent 1157 bulbs that were in
there.
the whole job is just 5 minutes (if you are slow) and involves no more than
R&Ring the old lens and bulb with the new LED lens.
The thing I was always plagued with is dust getting in the old lens and
coating the backside of the lens and the bulb, making them dimmer over time,
so I was always taking the old lenses off to clean bulb and lens.
the led unit is a totally sealed package.
my local RV parts store didn't stock them, and wanted $36.00 each plus
shipping to get them, so I hit the internet and found them here....
http://www.ledtrailerlights.com/stt/led-insert.htm
Jim
Pam
Moderator edit to resize picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
* This post was edited 08/09/08 11:38am by an administrator/moderator *
I finished up converting my interior lights to LED's. Did most of them as the DW still wants the other lights in there.
Sorry for the bad photos but you get the idea.
Finished with the outside down lights too:
This one was taken on the last trip, you can see our interior lights and the down lights. We were camping in a location where we had very little light and no neighbors...park holds 85 pull throughs and we were the ONLY ONES THERE for Labor Day weekend. So we parked Awning to awning.
rondeb wrote:
Below are 2 of my favorites
Put shelves in 2 of the 3 closets Attached quarter round wood to the sides of the closets with industrial strength velcro and bought the wire shelving
Installed a 2 foot counter extension that will hold 200 pounds and is level with the counter. It folds flat against the counter when not in use.
love it was trying to figure out a easy way to add a couple shelves, in our 1 closet we use the plastic drawers for DD clothes but in another closet i want shelves for food. TY for showing those pics.
Below are 2 of my favorites
Put shelves in 2 of the 3 closets Attached quarter round wood to the sides of the closets with industrial strength velcro and bought the wire shelving
Installed a 2 foot counter extension that will hold 200 pounds and is level with the counter. It folds flat against the counter when not in use.
The outdoors is a wonderful place to be....
from a queen bed
to twins
mod 2 coming soon
Mike & Marsha
West Allis Sunshiners
Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8319SS
2005 dodge ram 3500 5.9 cummins diesel
.jpg)
Drinking water dispenser
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum.
* This post was edited 09/18/08 08:48am by an administrator/moderator *
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad-Cab
2008 Jayco JayFlight 26BH
Underside of bed as seen from storage area.
All closed up!
What it looks like from inside storage area.
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum.
* This post was edited 09/18/08 08:50am by an administrator/moderator *
PVC WD bar holder, got this idea form this topic months ago.
Made the wife's Avalon a convertible.
Just kidding it was a car we practiced on in the Fire Academy using the Jaws of Life, just added it for fun!
Do the added jack in front of the wheels make a difference? I've thought of doing that mod.
Mark & Tammy
'01 Excursion Limited, 4x4, V10, RoadMaster Active Suspension
'01 Prowler 31G
Equal-i-zer Hitch - Prodigy Brake Controller
rhillx4 wrote:
lol you had me scared for a bit there! Thinking you really hacked the wifes car up. lol
lol you had me scared for a bit there! Thinking you really hacked the wifes car up. lol
BUT.....Can it be towed 4 down?
In The Dawghouse wrote:
BUT.....Can it be towed 4 down?
rhillx4 wrote:
lol you had me scared for a bit there! Thinking you really hacked the wifes car up. lol
lol you had me scared for a bit there! Thinking you really hacked the wifes car up. lol
BUT.....Can it be towed 4 down?
I don't think so without a transmission pump, however by now it wouldn't matter.
This is what 3 2007 Avalon's and a Camry look like without the roof or doors, it was hard to cut up a brand new 0 mile car, they were donated by Toyota Motor Manufacturing in Georgetown, KY. to the Lexington FD for training.
mooreadventures wrote:
Welfarewagon,
Do the added jack in front of the wheels make a difference? I've thought of doing that mod.
Welfarewagon,
Do the added jack in front of the wheels make a difference? I've thought of doing that mod.
I noticed an immediate difference, while fixing all the bounce as it is still a trailer on wheels is impossible I would say the money and time spent made it 80% better then before, some campsites or ground conditions will always give you a better or worse result, IE. sand or gravel made it harder to control then blacktop.
For example before I could feel every footstep in the TT while I laid in the front bed, I could even feel when my kids rolled over in the bunks, now all that's gone except for the kids running or jumping, I still get some feel when someone steps out the door but thats expected.
I also feel better when it comes to a flat on the highway, my 4 corner jacks come down at an angle the two I added are the scissor style Bal jack and since they are right behind the wheel if needed I can lift one side of the TT off the ground with enough boards for added height, I tried this in the driveway just to see what it could do, I don't recommend camping or leaving it that way for long but in a pinch on the side of the road......
With regard to jack by the axles, I did this a few months ago and it really made a big difference. It really takes out the bounce.
Mike
Mike Schriber wrote:
Wow! rhillx4... did you actually close off the storage space under the bed? That's a lot of useful space to lose!
Mike
Wow! rhillx4... did you actually close off the storage space under the bed? That's a lot of useful space to lose!
Mike
Look at the pics. The area is still accessible by the external door, but not accessible by lifting the bed.
They essentially just put a 'lid' over it.
Personally, it seems like a lot of unnecessary weight to me; plywood on top of plywood.
The theme is mostly a Louisiana type style with a little Texas also.
2 flying duck pictures
A Magnolia picture
An iron Barometer
An iron style spice rack
An iron style paper towel holder and a coaster holder which is hard to see in the pic.
A Texas star hook and 2 Dollar store holders which I thought was cute.
Another Texas star with 2 nails for keys and the such.
Another one to compliment the other.
A blow dryer rack in the hall closet which has 2 hooks on the bottom.
A pretty blue LED night light, the blue lights don't come through on the pic.
A Tabasco picture.
A Bath hanger, good for wet bathing suits.
An awning lock which I couldn't sleep without, hehe
This replaces the aluminum foil in the window, I figured it was time to upgrade.
Had to have one of these. I like it.
I really want to replace this soon, been looking.
A closeup of the coaster holder which matches the paper towel holder and spice rack.
A couple of used cabinet doors I found off of Ebay. They will be installed below the booth seats to have better access below.
My DH most favorite one of all.
* This post was edited 09/19/08 01:23pm by rvdogette *
2005 Keystone Springdale
1 Hubby
2 boys 21 & 19
2 sweet dogs, spoiled rotten
Isabella, my 16 year old baby dog, RIP
Sara, RIP, She was the best camping dog.
A new grand baby puppy GS, she is a sweety
 (3).jpg)
RollingRockTX wrote:
More fun with LED lighting
I finished up converting my interior lights to LED's. Did most of them as the DW still wants the other lights in there.
Sorry for the bad photos but you get the idea.
Finished with the outside down lights too:
This one was taken on the last trip, you can see our interior lights and the down lights. We were camping in a location where we had very little light and no neighbors...park holds 85 pull throughs and we were the ONLY ONES THERE for Labor Day weekend. So we parked Awning to awning.
More fun with LED lighting
I finished up converting my interior lights to LED's. Did most of them as the DW still wants the other lights in there.
Sorry for the bad photos but you get the idea.
Finished with the outside down lights too:
This one was taken on the last trip, you can see our interior lights and the down lights. We were camping in a location where we had very little light and no neighbors...park holds 85 pull throughs and we were the ONLY ONES THERE for Labor Day weekend. So we parked Awning to awning.
I can appreciate the efficiency of LED lighting, but for living areas I would prefer incandescent warmer type lighting, but each to their own.
Larry
Have read all the postings of you all's modifications, etc. and have picked up some ideas. Its sure neat to have this forum to glean ideas from. AND the pictures are nice to show hubby what I really want .. -marji
Our Hot Water Recirculation System
'05 Chevy Tahoe & ’08 Rockwood Roo 23ss
'62 Myself
'62 Camper Honey
'96 Camper Twin Girls
Pictures of our '08 23ss Rockwood Roo & Our Mods on Webshots
Looks good, if i might ask what trailer do you have make and model, floor plan looks interesting to me. Thanks
Sunline1
Bass fishing wallpaper border.
I still have more of this I need to put up.
More border:
8" powered bass tube. Wired into stereo which is also hooked up to my laptop and tv. Sounds pretty good and is hidden behind a closed door.
The black switch on the left turns the amp on and off.
I love this little thing:
Fireplace. Looks like it has always been there. Throws pretty good heat and looks nice at night. Also the coffee table I found left over at a yard sale for free. Painted it to match.
Here is what it looked like before the fireplace. I think it looks much better with!
Lights.
The lights around the slideout look really nice at night. I use them every night:
Decals. I put these little decals in the shower to keep with the fish / fishing theme:
Shoe rack turned Sandle rack. Works great to hose off your dirty sandles:
Ice maker (under microwave). I am not done with this mod yet, But it makes around 2-3 bags a day:
Desk. Found this left over at a yard sale free. painted to match rig.
Shower lighting:
Skirting:
Little soap / Shampoo corner rack. Also shower curtain rod works well for drying things:
More pics in my signature.
Jeff
* This post was edited 10/26/08 01:09pm by jiga20001 *
97 Sandpiper, 14' slide
MY MARTIN TRUEX FORUM
2006 KZ Jag 24 JB
2002 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L 4x4
Equalizer hitch, Prodigy brake controller
Status: Winterized
Next adventure: March 2011
Doug33 wrote:
How does the slide come in with the fireplace there, or is this a permanent site where you keep the slides out all the time?
How does the slide come in with the fireplace there, or is this a permanent site where you keep the slides out all the time?
Its on a permanent site, But I have moved the rig a few times.
Fireplace is quite light. I just put it on my bed, Tuck it under the covers and shes good to go. Takes around 2 minutes to do.
Jeff
I thought about getting another 'car end' and attaching it to my a-frame like 03281 did, then wire-in a switch. It also makes good scence for protecting the plug.
mooreadventures wrote:
All you have to do is jumper the 3 & 4 pin. I've done it several times.
I thought about getting another 'car end' and attaching it to my a-frame like 03281 did, then wire-in a switch. It also makes good scence for protecting the plug.
All you have to do is jumper the 3 & 4 pin. I've done it several times.
I thought about getting another 'car end' and attaching it to my a-frame like 03281 did, then wire-in a switch. It also makes good scence for protecting the plug.
Thanks for the great idea!
I always figured it would look neat to have my running lights on at night but never put any thought into how to do it. I tried the fuse trick and it worked great. Being on a permanent site, I decided to take it one step further and put it on a switch.
Thanks again!
MicDuran wrote:
03281 - doesn't that ice maker need space for the heat? The manual says to be sure there is a 6" clearance. How are you venting yours? I'd like to do something similar.
03281 - doesn't that ice maker need space for the heat? The manual says to be sure there is a 6" clearance. How are you venting yours? I'd like to do something similar.
I did not vent it at all. The cab that it is in is pretty big. It gets plenty of circulation. Barely gets warm in the cab that its in. If it was a problem though it would be pretty easy to put a vent going to the outside of the rig. There are all types of screened vents out there that would work fine. I guess its just a matter of weather you are scared to cut a whole in you rig or not. I am not!
Jeff
We also went to IKEA and purchased a under the bed table on which we mounted a set of drawers. I replaced the melamine top with a cutting board top and it gives us more food prep area and storage.
we replaced the kitchen faucet with one that pulls out to spray. in the bathroom the DW picked up some small wire baskets that we have mounted above the sink to hold toothbrushes etc. we also mounted a second towel rack above the other and can now spread the towels out more.
I have told the dw that we are not doing like the last time and looking for a new rig now that we have this one how we want it.
Ron & Jean
Kia , Spot & Frankie
British Columbia
Support Crafters and Farmers Markets
Retirement takes all the meaning out of weekend
Will assemble and take pics tomorrow.
Got it all at Lowes for under $15.
Assembled last night in living room with addition of small clamps I already had.
Screwed nylon plug into water heater.
Attached tubing and tightened clamp.
tested and it worked.
Sorry for blurry pics. I was a little shakey in the cold.
Use some teflon tape to prevent leaks.
98 Dakota 5.2 5spd (heavily modified)
03 Trailcruiser 19RDB
MarionMedic wrote:
I bought a nylon plug with a "spout", 12" of tubing, a Brass fitting, and a 1/4 turn valve.
Got it all at Lowes for under $15.
Assembled last night in living room with addition of small clamps I already had.
Screwed nylon plug into water heater.
Attached tubing and tightened clamp.
tested and it worked.
Sorry for blurry pics. I was a little shakey in the cold.
I bought a nylon plug with a "spout", 12" of tubing, a Brass fitting, and a 1/4 turn valve.
Got it all at Lowes for under $15.
Assembled last night in living room with addition of small clamps I already had.
Screwed nylon plug into water heater.
Attached tubing and tightened clamp.
tested and it worked.
Sorry for blurry pics. I was a little shakey in the cold.
I did a similar mod but instead of having a tube you just unscrew the center part of the bolt and the water drains from the tank.
They sell that part at most CW or RV parts stores. I think I paid 4 bucks for it.
First time I tested it the pressure in the water lines was such that it caused the plastic tubing to inflate like a balloon at a weak spot and explode !
I replace with the more expensive tubing that is reinforced with nylon or something and worked like a charm.
I have no idea what the pressure is in the tank but I would highly recommend either:
1) Putting the shutoff directly at the drain point so that no water under preassure enters the tubing unless draining. There may be one there already and it's just obscured in the photo.
2) Upgrade to a stronger tubing.... if that tubing gives that could hurt someone.
Best regards,
Richard.
2005 KZ Jag 25 JQ
1989 Terry Resort 22BH
Dallas, TX, relocated from Bedford, England.
Mine has a little petcock valve like they use to drain radiators and you just open it a turn or two to drain the tank.
LINK!
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Larry
That's a neat, easy setup.
Sunlinel
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
* This post was edited 10/31/08 07:10pm by Loopy *
Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
I'm no metallurgist but it looks like brass is the last thing you would want to use to protect an aluminum tank according to the galvanic table in THIS ARTICLE. My understanding of the table presented there is the farther apart the two metals are from each other the more corrosion of the material higher in the table occurs. The brass plug won't corrode, but the aluminum tank or it's lining will and very fast according to how I'm reading that chart. That's why if I'm not mistaken the steel Suburban tanks use an anode rod of Magnesium so the Magnesium corrodes before the steel does with Magnesium being the highest metal in that table. I might be wrong, but it seems that using a brass plug will shorten the life of both the lining and the aluminum tank itself with the Atwood WH.
Also, note that Zinc which is another popular sacrificial element used in cooling and marine systems is just below magnesium.
I chose to try and stick to a non metallic fitting for the actual drain fitting.
I'm also a little more than anal in trying the best I can to use the best rated material when doing mods such as paying over $6/ft for food grade silicon hose when redoing my low point drains.
Larry
The water in the tube never got much over "warm".
Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
Old Navy Chief (AOC) Retired Aircraft Mechanic/Inspector
2007 29' 27FBV Trail Bay V Series
2007 Dodge Ram 1500 Mega Cab 5.7 V8 3.92 Rear End
Reese Strait-Line Dual Cam Hitch
martipr wrote:
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?
Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
The bottom cabinet in the photos contains the water heater and converter. The doors are essentially dummy doors and are used for service only. The red stickers state these cabinets are not for storage. The shelf is removable to allow the slide to come in. Clearance is tight when the slide closes, but the slide can squeeze by. I usually keep my coolers in this area, so I can just dump ice into coolers when it is ready.
winty03 wrote:
I have been trying to think of something like that for our trailer....but we use or had a anode rod...is there anything, someone has thought of for the same type of result? Tired of all the water all over the inside of the water heater and slowly rusting the pan/tray.
I have been trying to think of something like that for our trailer....but we use or had a anode rod...is there anything, someone has thought of for the same type of result? Tired of all the water all over the inside of the water heater and slowly rusting the pan/tray.
I have a Suburban WH and if the annode will fit inside the correct size pipe and fittings with enough clearance I was thinking about using threaded steel fittings and installing a nipple into one end of a tee then threading the other end of the nipple into the water heater drain hole. Then install my drain fittings valve and hose into the side branch of the tee. The anode plug can then be reinserted through the opposite end of the tee and left in place when draining the tank. I would still remove the annode yearly to inspect it for replacement. I haven't remembered yet to take an anode plug with me when I go to the hardware store to check for clearance.
cheezy26_81 wrote:
martipr wrote:
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
Mounted a flashlight in a convenient location..
Cheap security feature...
Battery Disconnect Switch. You'll also see the SS bolts I put in to keep the battery from moving back and forth.
The controversial brass water heater drain. I like this tiny short one as I can just open it, close the door and drive away. It will finish draining by the time we get home.
1999 Jayco Eagle 304BH
2003 Chevy Suburban 1500
Use And Promote CB Channel 13
slides wrote:
snarfattack I like the flashlight mount can I ask where you got those brackets?
snarfattack I like the flashlight mount can I ask where you got those brackets?
Came in a set with the flashlight at Sams.
Small mods for small trailer
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
2002 Palomino 22'
2009 GMC 5.3 V8
Fish-O-Holic
04 Escape - Sears X-Cargo
The NorthFace Trailhead 8
Rumtan wrote:
I really like your security feature......cheap and very effective. (being 1/2 Scottish, im going to try that). Thanks for the creative idea, hope you dont mind if i copy it?
I really like your security feature......cheap and very effective. (being 1/2 Scottish, im going to try that). Thanks for the creative idea, hope you dont mind if i copy it?
I used to have one of those $30+ big locks that was really obvious. Problem was when I misplaced the keys for it. I figured it would be a huge operation to remove it... Got the sawsall and several blades. My neighbor was watching and was shocked as I when 30 seconds later I was finished cutting through the bar with barely the paint scratched off the cutting blade.
Be my guest... copy away!
profdant139 wrote:
I have a bunch of very minor mods with pix at this link:
Small mods for small trailer
I have a bunch of very minor mods with pix at this link:
Small mods for small trailer
I really like your #13... I keep banging my head too.
snarfattack wrote:
Got tired of rolling into each other, so I replaced all the framing with 2x4s.
Mounted a flashlight in a convenient location..
Cheap security feature...
Battery Disconnect Switch. You'll also see the SS bolts I put in to keep the battery from moving back and forth.
The controversial brass water heater drain. I like this tiny short one as I can just open it, close the door and drive away. It will finish draining by the time we get home.
Got tired of rolling into each other, so I replaced all the framing with 2x4s.
Mounted a flashlight in a convenient location..
Cheap security feature...
Battery Disconnect Switch. You'll also see the SS bolts I put in to keep the battery from moving back and forth.
The controversial brass water heater drain. I like this tiny short one as I can just open it, close the door and drive away. It will finish draining by the time we get home.
Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?
Patrick45 wrote:
Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?
Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?
I got it at Sams in a pack with that D battery flashlight and a AA one.
snarfattack wrote:
I got it at Sams in a pack with that D battery flashlight and a AA one.
Patrick45 wrote:
Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?
Where did you get the flashlight mount and what was the cost?
I got it at Sams in a pack with that D battery flashlight and a AA one.
I got one at Sams also but googled Mag-lite holder and found several online.
2003 4X4 F350,CC,SB,Lariat,7.3L diesel, 139,000 miles
2004 Coachmen 278 RKS Fifth-Wheel
Reese 15K slider hitch
Some of you are very inventive and crafty! Great work!!
2008 Dutchmen Kodiak 27CDSL,-94Dodg4x4Cummins- Mods:Auto switchover Honda EU3000IS gen cabeled to gen in truck.-Propride 3P hitch
-Cold weather mods:Valves/tanks heated-insulated, storm windows, plumbing drains to low point. Barker 24" tongue jack
Loopy wrote:
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
cheezy26_81 wrote:
martipr wrote:
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.
martipr wrote:
The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.
Loopy wrote:
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
cheezy26_81 wrote:
martipr wrote:
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.
martipr, you dont have to be a metallurgist, i am talking about your water heater that is in your trailer right now. look at your pressure relief valve, it is brass not nylon. so with your thinking you need to change your pressure relief valve to nylon (hold on they dont make one out of nylon). so i guess your next step should be to take it out and put in a nylon plug in it to, so you dont mix brass and aluminum. manufactures have safety specs they must follow and have tested and what you said about it is the poorest recommendation possible is crap. if the manufacture of your trailer recommended you to bring it in for repair im guessing you wouldnt because the manufactures recommendation is the poorest recommendation possible.
* This post was edited 12/11/08 10:29am by cheezy26_81 *
cheezy26_81 wrote:
martipr, you dont have to be a metallurgist, i am talking about your water heater that is in your trailer right now. look at your pressure relief valve, it is brass not nylon. so with your thinking you need to change your pressure relief valve to nylon (hold on they dont make one out of nylon). so i guess your next step should be to take it out and put in a nylon plug in it to, so you dont mix brass and aluminum. manufactures have safety specs they must follow and have tested and what you said about it is the poorest recommendation possible is crap. if the manufacture of your trailer recommended you to bring it in for repair im guessing you wouldnt because the manufactures recommendation is the poorest recommendation possible.
martipr wrote:
The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.
Loopy wrote:
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
cheezy26_81 wrote:
martipr wrote:
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
if the above is true then why is the pressure relief valve made of brass and not nylon?Loopy wrote:
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
MarionMedic wrote:
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
You can NOT use anything but the plastic/nylon "plugs" in my heater.
it doesn't use an ANODE ROD either.
I might re-do the setup at a later date.
I have the original plug I can use if it doesn't work.
I might get a braided nose this spring, but for now I'm trying this setup.
It's an "experiment" as are ALL mods that aren't "store bought".
Looks like the same water heater I have in my Jayco (Atwood 6 gallon DSI) in which I use a brass fitting to adapt to the braided stainless steel.
There's no reason you can't use brass in the threads on the water heater.
Almost any kind of metal fitting in the aluminum tank is prone to seizing, likely to the point that the tank will be ruined trying to remove the fitting. Be safe and use nylon fittings.
I've been out for a while and you beat me to it. I've been using brass and it's perfectly fine. Obviously the water heater manufacturers think so too or they wouldn't use brass either.
The fact that the manufacturers do it is probably the poorest recommendation possible. I am no metallurgist and maybe brass is OK but I don't want to risk my water heater tank to find out so I will stick with nylon.
martipr, you dont have to be a metallurgist, i am talking about your water heater that is in your trailer right now. look at your pressure relief valve, it is brass not nylon. so with your thinking you need to change your pressure relief valve to nylon (hold on they dont make one out of nylon). so i guess your next step should be to take it out and put in a nylon plug in it to, so you dont mix brass and aluminum. manufactures have safety specs they must follow and have tested and what you said about it is the poorest recommendation possible is crap. if the manufacture of your trailer recommended you to bring it in for repair im guessing you wouldnt because the manufactures recommendation is the poorest recommendation possible.
However what you don't know is if either the relief valve threads or the threads in the actual WH are either coated (like with epoxy, etc.) or the threads in that one fitting in the WH are made with a layer of something that won't react with the brass.
The fact is that brass is very reactive with aluminum so you take your chances by going against the grain with other alternatives known to be safe are available.
Larry
2002 R-vision trail lite. Love it.
1999 dodge 4x4 deisle. Have loved it from the day it rolled off the lot. now at 250k
http://goodmanfamilygivingcenter.blogspot.com/
http://goodmanfamilyoutdoors.blogspot.com/
Ted and Maryann Rowan __ Cape Cod, MA
2009 Ford F-150 FX4 + 2008 KZ Spree 261 RKS
Two Road Bikes * Two Mountain Bikes * Too little time
Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
Yes
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab LT Z71 4X4 5.3
2002 Chevrolet 1500 4x4 Ext.Cab 5.3 3.73 rear
Putnam Class V XDR
Prodigy
2008 Jayco Jayflight G2 29BHS
MAXX AIR
Tornado
Reese Strait Line Dual Cam 1,200 lb Trunnion bars
dbcc186 wrote:
Yes
Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
Yes
I second that !
Anthony21403 wrote:
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
this thread is starting to deviate from cool mods and is becoming a debate on one person's suggestion. I make a motion that we stop discussing the water heater controversy and get back to the other mods. JMHO
I am one of the guilty parties and I agree with you completely.
Bottom line is that a hot water tank drain is a "Cool Mod"........Next idea please
I have 2 doors on my TT and I like having a lot of sunlight in the TT so I cut plexie glass and put it over the screens on the screen doors.
Now I can run the AC or on colder trips I can have the doors open with out loosing heat or AC
Sorry I do not have a picture at this point, Think of it like a storm window.
cdgm wrote:
I just remembered to post my idea and I am not sure if it was already posted so sorry if it was:
I have 2 doors on my TT and I like having a lot of sunlight in the TT so I cut plexie glass and put it over the screens on the screen doors.
Now I can run the AC or on colder trips I can have the doors open with out loosing heat or AC
Sorry I do not have a picture at this point, Think of it like a storm window.
I just remembered to post my idea and I am not sure if it was already posted so sorry if it was:
I have 2 doors on my TT and I like having a lot of sunlight in the TT so I cut plexie glass and put it over the screens on the screen doors.
Now I can run the AC or on colder trips I can have the doors open with out loosing heat or AC
Sorry I do not have a picture at this point, Think of it like a storm window.
Or would that be a "storm door" ??
mike
2006 Chevy K1500 4x4 Greystone, Vortec Max 6.0L 345HP 380LB 4.10 Gears
Torsion Bars tightened, Firestone Ride Rites. Runs Wonderfully.
First year of the VortecMax power pack, and the fastest of them all!!!
2003 Springdale 279RLL Fifth Wheel
cdgm wrote:
snip......Sorry I do not have a picture at this point....snip
snip......Sorry I do not have a picture at this point....snip
I'm sure yours looks a lot like mine, and it's a great functional mod.
TURK2500 wrote:
I'm sure yours looks a lot like mine, and it's a great functional mod.
I'm sure yours looks a lot like mine, and it's a great functional mod.
That is how mine looks. I can't quite tell by your picture but mine is on the top and bottom of the door.
cdgm wrote:
snip.....I can't quite tell by your picture but mine is on the top and bottom of the door.
snip.....I can't quite tell by your picture but mine is on the top and bottom of the door.
Mine also covers the full length of my screen door, but I did have the Plexiglas cut into three sections making it easier to handle and remove from the Velcro strips.
cdgm wrote:
That is how mine looks. I can't quite tell by your picture but mine is on the top and bottom of the door.
TURK2500 wrote:
I'm sure yours looks a lot like mine, and it's a great functional mod.
I'm sure yours looks a lot like mine, and it's a great functional mod.
That is how mine looks. I can't quite tell by your picture but mine is on the top and bottom of the door.
Hi CDGM and Turk2500
The storm door... is a popular mod. I picked mine up from seeing Turk2500's and BarneyS's. How to attach to the door has been done several ways. See here for mine. This one was on my last TT and I now have to reproduce on my new one.
On word of recommendation. If at all possible, get polycarbonate sheet (Lexan). Home Depot has it. Yes it does cost more then Plexiglas but it is hundreds times more durable for cracking. I made my first one out of Plexiglas and it shattered on me making that final fit and poof
then followed by 
Mine is in 3 sections and I can remove/add any of the 3 to add more or less air.
Also here is my inside extra handle and outside extra knob. They greatly help opening and closing.
Happy Camping
John
drt-rdr wrote:
Are those bathroom mirror clips ? and what did you use to cut the rounded corners without breaking it ?
Are those bathroom mirror clips ? and what did you use to cut the rounded corners without breaking it ?
The clips, if I remember right are screen door clips. Bought them in Lowes or Home Depot can't remember which one. I have an extra pack at home, traveling for work, will post on the weekend the brand/package etc. I drilled the hole for the screw, started screw to cut threads, then took screw out. Then put in screw that where cut short so they would not go thru door and still have while paint on them. They came with the clips.
The curve, I cut the sheet square and to fit inside on table saw. Then held up the panel to the door and traced on the protective paper the exact curve for both left and right side.
Then used a saber saw with a real fine blade. I can control the feed best with this. Some use a router but for me it runs away from me to fast.
John
I got my Lexan from "The Land of Plenty" I attached it with clear heavy duty interlocking velcro also from the "The Land of Plenty" (Not the fuzzy type)
I also made a template then I transfered it to the Lexan so I could cut it.
I leave mine on all the time so removeing it is not an issue.
cdgm wrote:
JBarca it looks like you did a good job.
I got my Lexan from "The Land of Plenty" I attached it with clear heavy duty interlocking velcro also from the "The Land of Plenty" (Not the fuzzy type)
I also made a template then I transfered it to the Lexan so I could cut it.
I leave mine on all the time so removeing it is not an issue.
JBarca it looks like you did a good job.
I got my Lexan from "The Land of Plenty" I attached it with clear heavy duty interlocking velcro also from the "The Land of Plenty" (Not the fuzzy type)
I also made a template then I transfered it to the Lexan so I could cut it.
I leave mine on all the time so removeing it is not an issue.
Thanks for the kind words.
H'mm "The Land of Plenty" Is this the land fill or left overs from work???
We leave the bottom on year round, the top comes off in early summer. Then back on when AC season comes...
John
dutchman28rgs wrote:
Where did you find the curved shower curtain rod ?? We have a very small shower/tub.
Where did you find the curved shower curtain rod ?? We have a very small shower/tub.
I ordered mine online from either ABC Distributing or Lakeside
Lisa, Chris, Tyler (12), Devin (4), & Tyra (3)
2007 Dodge Ram 2500
2008 Rockwood Roo 26RS
http://www.kodakgallery.com/ledmanfamily/camping
lledman wrote:
I ordered mine online from either ABC Distributing or Lakeside
dutchman28rgs wrote:
Where did you find the curved shower curtain rod ?? We have a very small shower/tub.
Where did you find the curved shower curtain rod ?? We have a very small shower/tub.
I ordered mine online from either ABC Distributing or Lakeside
I ordered mine from Lakeside, was very pleased with their quick service. John
* This post was edited 12/19/08 03:57pm by Empty Nest, Soon *
* This post was edited 12/21/08 07:35am by 03281 *
04 suburban 1500
00 silverado 1500
05 jayco 27bh
Couldn't get rig to post,so here is my burgler alarm!!
our pics
sweethome alabama wrote:
Jbarca, Nice job on the screen door. I've been wanting to do mine for a while. Is the lexan you bought tinted? I briefly looked at lowes and couldn't remember if they handled both styles. That will give me something to do before camping season. Great job. Thanks Mike
Jbarca, Nice job on the screen door. I've been wanting to do mine for a while. Is the lexan you bought tinted? I briefly looked at lowes and couldn't remember if they handled both styles. That will give me something to do before camping season. Great job. Thanks Mike
Mine are not tinted. But that is a personal choice. I have seen some that are and they like them, just we do not.
Lowes around here did not have Lexan,only Plexiglas, but Home Depot does. Lexan is the trade name and the material is Polycarbonate. There are other brands of Polycarbonate and they are OK as well.
Plexiglas is not the same material as polycarbonate and while cheaper, it also cracks faster. I cannot remember the plastic that Plexiglas is.
Good luck and the mod is well worth it.
John
JBarca wrote:
....Plexiglas is not the same material as polycarbonate and while cheaper, it also cracks faster. I cannot remember the plastic that Plexiglas is....
....Plexiglas is not the same material as polycarbonate and while cheaper, it also cracks faster. I cannot remember the plastic that Plexiglas is....
Plexiglas is acrylic glass.
I had a Lexan pannel (3/32"x22.5"x24.5")cut to replace the white opaque one in the door for $23 plus tax. I installed it myself.
I have now replace all the opaque pannels so now we can see out the door floor to ceiling.
Bonefish
* This post was edited 12/25/08 06:43am by Bonefish *
You guys have found "plexiglass" to be too delicate for RV use???
I'll have to make a note of that.
Thanks.
MarionMedic wrote:
So,
You guys have found "plexiglass" to be too delicate for RV use???
I'll have to make a note of that.
So,
You guys have found "plexiglass" to be too delicate for RV use???
I'll have to make a note of that.
.............
Bonefish wrote:
Look for a company that deals in plastics in your area.
I had a Lexan pannel (3/32"x22.5"x24.5")cut to replace the white opaque one in the door for $23 plus tax. I installed it myself.
I have now replace all the opaque pannels so now we can see out the door floor to ceiling.
Bonefish
Look for a company that deals in plastics in your area.
I had a Lexan pannel (3/32"x22.5"x24.5")cut to replace the white opaque one in the door for $23 plus tax. I installed it myself.
I have now replace all the opaque pannels so now we can see out the door floor to ceiling.
Bonefish
Cheaper option at CW
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/replacement-screen-door-slides/1858
cdgm wrote:
.............
MarionMedic wrote:
So,
You guys have found "plexiglass" to be too delicate for RV use???
I'll have to make a note of that.
So,
You guys have found "plexiglass" to be too delicate for RV use???
I'll have to make a note of that.
.............
Just make sure your plexiglass is Lexan brand and you will have some tough stuff. There are other brands of Plexiglass that work too, just be sure it is polycarbonate as was said earlier. Some manufacturers of plexiglass do their best to confuse us. Polycarbonate whatever the brand seems to do the job as far as I know. I paid a little more to get Lexan brand just to avoid getting sucked in. I did not want the hassle of working with bad stuff. I cut the Lexan with a sabre saw and drilled holes like it was butter but carefully. Not a mishapp in over 60 holes, and 32 rounded corners on my storm windows. I kept putting off doing my project because I was hearing about how difficult it was to drill through plexiglass, and how susceptible it was to cracking while working with it. The fears were groundless with the 3/32" Lexan.
Where I got my plastic sheeting
Okay, that worked.
85AllegroSam wrote:
Just make sure your plexiglass is Lexan brand and you will have some tough stuff. There are other brands of Plexiglass that work too, just be sure it is polycarbonate as was said earlier. Some manufacturers of plexiglass do their best to confuse us. Polycarbonate whatever the brand seems to do the job as far as I know. I paid a little more to get Lexan brand just to avoid getting sucked in. .....
Just make sure your plexiglass is Lexan brand and you will have some tough stuff. There are other brands of Plexiglass that work too, just be sure it is polycarbonate as was said earlier. Some manufacturers of plexiglass do their best to confuse us. Polycarbonate whatever the brand seems to do the job as far as I know. I paid a little more to get Lexan brand just to avoid getting sucked in. .....
FYI-Plexiglas is a brand of acrylic sheeting. Lexan is a brand of polycarbonate sheeting.
Like you I would always choose polycarbonate over acrylic as it is tougher, doesn't chip out like acrylic and resists yellowing better/ longer.
The hardest pannel to install was the bottom one at around 45 minutes. I did not remove the door from the camper to do it. Just pulled the center cross frame pieces one section at a time to keep the door from warping.Bonefish
The link is the same as the one in my signature.
Enjoy.
Jeff
I had to put the camera above my clearance lights (since that was where the open space was above the ceiling) so I ended up making two Lucite spacers to make room for the camera to point down and to eliminate glare from the center clearance light.
After drilling the holes (gasp) and getting the bolts, it was just a matter of attaching the camera (along with a generous helping of silicone).
It works great and I can't wait to use it on our next trip.
Mike
Mike Schriber wrote:
I finally got around to installing my backup camera this weekend. I've been putting it off for months. I was going to run the wire through the ceiling but even with a fishtape it was too much trouble. I ended up going out the bottom of a cabinet (behind a set of drawers) and then under the trailer and along the frame.
I had to put the camera above my clearance lights (since that was where the open space was above the ceiling) so I ended up making two Lucite spacers to make room for the camera to point down and to eliminate glare from the center clearance light.
After drilling the holes (gasp) and getting the bolts, it was just a matter of attaching the camera (along with a generous helping of silicone).
It works great and I can't wait to use it on our next trip.
Mike
I finally got around to installing my backup camera this weekend. I've been putting it off for months. I was going to run the wire through the ceiling but even with a fishtape it was too much trouble. I ended up going out the bottom of a cabinet (behind a set of drawers) and then under the trailer and along the frame.
I had to put the camera above my clearance lights (since that was where the open space was above the ceiling) so I ended up making two Lucite spacers to make room for the camera to point down and to eliminate glare from the center clearance light.
After drilling the holes (gasp) and getting the bolts, it was just a matter of attaching the camera (along with a generous helping of silicone).
It works great and I can't wait to use it on our next trip.
Mike
VERY nice, good clean install. Well done.
Tamri
5 kids
2 dogs
2013 Dutchmen Denali 311BHS
2004 Suburban 2500 8.1L
ProPride hitch
MissouriCouple wrote:
85AllegroSam.....what did u use to round off the corners on your Lexan project? and do u have an estimation as to the total cost for your door project?
85AllegroSam.....what did u use to round off the corners on your Lexan project? and do u have an estimation as to the total cost for your door project?
OOP's --- did not notice this post when it hit so I am a little late. There are all sorts of ways to get the corners to the right radius, --- the right ways --- and my way. I hunted up a dish cover that was the same curvature as my windows. I looked a little stupid rummmaging through our store of dishes, jar tops etc but eventually found the two curvatures I needed. When I told DW what I was doing she started helping me find something so she could make sure I did not saw her good dishes. My reassurances that I was not going to saw her dish weren't worth much. A couple of smooches and she was ready to sacrifice a dish. I then traced the corner with a felt tipped Sharpie pen and cut with the Sabre saw. The dish is living happily everafter
I have not done my door yet but that is next. I would have ordered enough plastic to do it all if I had been confident in working with the material. After experience the ease of this project using Lexan, the door will be a piece of cake. I am going to do mine in 3 pieces so as to be able to take down sections.
85AllegroSam wrote:
OOP's --- did not notice this post when it hit so I am a little late. There are all sorts of ways to get the corners to the right radius, --- the right ways --- and my way. I hunted up a dish cover that was the same curvature as my windows. I looked a little stupid rummmaging through our store of dishes, jar tops etc but eventually found the two curvatures I needed. When I told DW what I was doing she started helping me find something so she could make sure I did not saw her good dishes. My reassurances that I was not going to saw her dish weren't worth much. A couple of smooches and she was ready to sacrifice a dish. I then traced the corner with a felt tipped Sharpie pen and cut with the Sabre saw. The dish is living happily everafter
I have not done my door yet but that is next. I would have ordered enough plastic to do it all if I had been confident in working with the material. After experience the ease of this project using Lexan, the door will be a piece of cake. I am going to do mine in 3 pieces so as to be able to take down sections.
MissouriCouple wrote:
85AllegroSam.....what did u use to round off the corners on your Lexan project? and do u have an estimation as to the total cost for your door project?
85AllegroSam.....what did u use to round off the corners on your Lexan project? and do u have an estimation as to the total cost for your door project?
OOP's --- did not notice this post when it hit so I am a little late. There are all sorts of ways to get the corners to the right radius, --- the right ways --- and my way. I hunted up a dish cover that was the same curvature as my windows. I looked a little stupid rummmaging through our store of dishes, jar tops etc but eventually found the two curvatures I needed. When I told DW what I was doing she started helping me find something so she could make sure I did not saw her good dishes. My reassurances that I was not going to saw her dish weren't worth much. A couple of smooches and she was ready to sacrifice a dish. I then traced the corner with a felt tipped Sharpie pen and cut with the Sabre saw. The dish is living happily everafter
I have not done my door yet but that is next. I would have ordered enough plastic to do it all if I had been confident in working with the material. After experience the ease of this project using Lexan, the door will be a piece of cake. I am going to do mine in 3 pieces so as to be able to take down sections.
OOP's again --- Forgot to include the answer to the other part of your question. It was around $200 to cover all my windows including the door windows. I got my plastic pieces all precut from Here - same place a privious poster mentioned. Measure carefully and save yourself a lot of work.
I did some thinking and decided that I could put an outlet on the refrigerator access panel/vent (versus drilling a hole through the side of the trailer) and grab power from the fridge 12v supply.
It works great. I can still get in there to work and the outlet is fuse protected.
Mike
Well, besides camping all year round that is!
Mike
Pitapony wrote:
Mike, you don't have screening on your 'fridge vents! Shame on you.
Mike, you don't have screening on your 'fridge vents! Shame on you.
How did you put the power plug in the ref. door? also where did you purchase that particular one?
First the 12v outlet. The jack itself is a Sea Dog marine outlet that I purchased online. I've had the same thing on my battery box for more than a year with no issues or leaks.
Here's a picture behind the access door...
The power is tapped right off the terminal block for the refrigerator. The jack has spade terminals on the back so removing the access door is still easy.
Here's another view of the camera...
As for the tow vehicle, I already have a backup camera installed on my Suburban. I put in an A/B switch so all I have to do is hitch up, connect the camera (one plug) and throw the switch...
I'll find out just how handy the camera is on our next trip in two weeks.
Mike
I am guessing the newer Rv's have them (If not they should), But I am wondering if anyone has made this mod on there older campers.
I will be doing mine soon. At least before I need to empty the tank again and will post pics of what I come up with.
Thanks
Jeff
PS: If there is already a thread on someone already doing this, Please post a link if you know where it is.
Thanks again.
* This post was edited 02/02/09 08:43pm by jiga20001 *
Pitapony wrote:
Why not just put up a battery operated motion light?
Why not just put up a battery operated motion light?
The whole battery operated thing has always turned me off a little bit. I just never liked the idea of going to turn something on when you really need it only to find out your batteries are dead. Then you have yet another job on your hands. Installing batteries in the dark.
I am thinking it would work better for me to wire something directly to the 12 volt system. What you are talking about would more than likely work great for someone using there RV for what it was intended for, Camping. But for someone that lives in there rig full time (guess I should have mentioned that) a more permanent solution makes more sense.
Thanks so much for the input though.
Jeff
And you just put motion light in my head which I was not thinking.
Thanks again
* This post was edited 02/02/09 09:23pm by jiga20001 *
I will have to go visit my little friend MR.GOOGLE
Jeff
Edit: I just stepped away and thought about it for a minute. A motion light would not make much sense seeing as how there is a horse paddock within 8 feet of the black tank valve. That paddock has two baby filly's in it at the moment that tend to run around a bit at night. So that light would be going on and off all night.
So my next thought would be a solar light. But the valves are on the north side of the rig which would get zero direct sunlight.
So the decision has been made, I will wire directly from the rv battery (fuse in between) to a switch on the south side of the rig (where my patio is)and run wires to a light directionally above the valves.
I will post pics soon after I do this mod.
Happy RVING
Jeff
* This post was edited 02/02/09 09:22pm by jiga20001 *
The big red wire is for my FloJet. The wiring for the light is tucked under the frame somewhere.
Tom
Wife, 2 girls 14 & 11, 2 mini schnauzers, 2 cats, a pig and a fish
2008 Toyota Tundra 4x4, DC, SR5, 5.7L, 6 spd, 4.30 rear
2005 Toyota Sienna XLE
2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2701SS
F/A-18 Hornet 0-175 mph in 2 seconds
tomhole wrote:
I added a light at the dump outlet for the same reason you cited. I just bought a cheapo 12V patio light from the local camp store and wired it into the camper. I think I tapped into the main battery line running from the tongue to the inverter. That was easy to access and always on. Here's a pic of the light:
The big red wire is for my FloJet. The wiring for the light is tucked under the frame somewhere.
Tom
I added a light at the dump outlet for the same reason you cited. I just bought a cheapo 12V patio light from the local camp store and wired it into the camper. I think I tapped into the main battery line running from the tongue to the inverter. That was easy to access and always on. Here's a pic of the light:
The big red wire is for my FloJet. The wiring for the light is tucked under the frame somewhere.
Tom
Cool! Thanks for the pic.
Jeff
Hook to a recording device, and might be able to record any "mis-deeds".
(like the mysterious vanishing spare tire)
Mike
One was installed under and behind the exterior step cavity so as to not interfere with the step when stored or deployed.
The other one was installed under the trailer adjacent to the sewage drain.
Both provide adequate but not over powering illumination.
They are wired into the external trailer porch light and are controlled by that switch.
We have discover in only one years usage they have become a necessity. Certainly recommend it as a modification.
Mike Schriber wrote:
Just did another mod. I wanted to have power under the awning to run lights or a 12v lantern while dry camping. I have an outlet I installed on the battery box but that's a long way away.
I did some thinking and decided that I could put an outlet on the refrigerator access panel/vent (versus drilling a hole through the side of the trailer) and grab power from the fridge 12v supply.
It works great. I can still get in there to work and the outlet is fuse protected.
Mike
Just did another mod. I wanted to have power under the awning to run lights or a 12v lantern while dry camping. I have an outlet I installed on the battery box but that's a long way away.
I did some thinking and decided that I could put an outlet on the refrigerator access panel/vent (versus drilling a hole through the side of the trailer) and grab power from the fridge 12v supply.
It works great. I can still get in there to work and the outlet is fuse protected.
Mike
I did a similiar mod. I took a 12' white extension cord and used 3M double stick tape and mounted the outlet in the power awning arm. I ran the wire along with the power wire for the awning back into the front storage compartment and soldered the plug back on. I then mounted a 12V cig lighter and used a cheap inverter to run off of the house battery. Plug in my LED rope lights and all is good.
I also did the poop tube light a while back and can't be without it.
Mike Schriber wrote:
That's funny! The same thought crossed my mind, especially since my generators are back there locked to racks on the bumper.
Mike
That's funny! The same thought crossed my mind, especially since my generators are back there locked to racks on the bumper.
Mike
Sure would be helpful to find a culprit.
And to assure he had permanent lodging in the "Graybar Inn".
Is everyone too broke to do any mods this year???
Right now it's too cold outside oven think about working on the trailer.
Rubiranch wrote:
Right now it's too cold outside oven think about working on the trailer.
Right now it's too cold outside oven think about working on the trailer.
Geez, you apparently like it really hot!!!!
snarfattack wrote:
Geez, you apparently like it really hot!!!!
Rubiranch wrote:
Right now it's too cold outside oven think about working on the trailer.
Right now it's too cold outside oven think about working on the trailer.
Geez, you apparently like it really hot!!!!
I made this shelf out of oak with the decorative railing that match others around the trailer. Total cost with the stain was close to $80 of which almost $30 was just for the railings. The cabinet is 31" wide and 20" high.
Here is the cabinet mounted and has room for VCR tapes/disks on top and storage for other TV related items on the bottom two shelves. The TV here is not the one that normally goes there and is an old tube type.
Overall I'm pleased with it and was able to match the color fairly close.
Larry
Very nice job!
Looks professionally done!
Pam
TV is on a board which is hinged at the top, latched at the bottom , prop rod on back to hold open to gain access to wires.
after...
with DVD below...
2013 Ford F250 XLT 2wd Crew Cab 6.2 and 3.73 rear
2006 KZ Frontier 2303P-F
Dual 6 volt GC batts
Equal-i-zer
Yamaha EF2600c Tri-Fuel Gen.
Champion Model 46595- 3000/3500
sold* 2001 Hurricane 30Q Chevy workhorse
sold* 2006 Nissan Titan CC with tow package
2011 Sunseeker 3170DS on order
DW: Charlene
Kids: Ryan (14) Katie (11) Maddie (5) Parker (2)
Check out Mod My RV
Camping Days in 2010 - 37
JMT wrote:
Anyone ever been to modmyrv.com? Great idea's if you are into Mods.
Anyone ever been to modmyrv.com? Great idea's if you are into Mods.
Thanks, Checking it out now.
Learjet
Hello Guy's
I'm new here and was looking for someone could help me out.
I want to replace the cheap plastic cover on my Renegade. All it would take is to just yank it off with 2 fingers.
Looking for the aluminum one like the Weekend Warrior unit has.
Not very secure at all.
Let me know if you can sell me one.
Let me know if someone here can build me one. I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
Jeff
400+ days on the road
Campground Host Shoshone NF '10
Ranger Station Host Roosevelt NF, Red Feather Lakes Summer '11
Snowbirding in Casa Grande 2011/12
Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta Oct.'10
'08 Dodge 1500 Quad with Hemi
'09 Jayco Jayflight G2 23FB
That was too easy. How about a harder question?
Cheers
Henry
- 2003 Dodge 2500 diesel crew cab, BD exhaust brakes, BD X-monitor digital gauge
- 2004 Arctic Fox 22H
- 24 feet high mobile rock climbing walls
- Days camped in 2010 - 0
DryZair? How is that relevant?
Ummm....It's a round plastic vent? No?
Henry Wang wrote:
Lol, dang. Cut and paste the wrong search window.
Ummm....It's a round plastic vent? No?
Lol, dang. Cut and paste the wrong search window.
Ummm....It's a round plastic vent? No?
NO! lol..........hard to be perfect in this not so perfect world!
Picture of noodle before installation:
Picture of noodle after installation:
You just have to remember to remove it before bringing in the slide, but in my case the carpet in front of the slide is now not permanently attached to the floor and will move if the noodle gets caught under the slide and you will see that right away so this is not much of a concern in my case.
Larry
StanleyandIris wrote:
Larry, great job on the rugs and I need a noodle now.
Larry, great job on the rugs and I need a noodle now.
HAPPY NOODLING
Larry
The trailer is a 32 ft bunkhouse, and I have come up with the answer to "what to do with the bunks when the kids are gone! I'll post pics later...
I LOVE IT!!!!!
If I don't meet your expectations
Maybe you should lower your standards.
Half of our bed slides in and out to make the garage for our side load toy hauler. On one side I framed in a door added a few hooks and a laundry bag for the dirty laundry.
2008 Heartland North Trail 280BH
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Laramie Cummins TD
Prodigy
Yellow Yamaha Golf Cart
2006 Jayco Jayfeather 29BHS
Mike & Terri (working hard to play)
Melissa
& Ty (23yr old daughter,13yr old son) Just along for the rideCujo
& Sophie {1 bad Chihuahua & Diva French Bulldog}
I'm going to seal it off as one of my FIRST mods this year.
Bobby & Paula
Jasper (Mini Dachshund)
Jake (Yellow Lab)
2006 Keystone Laredo 29RL
2006 Ford F250
Our Photos
Here's ours Tracy.......Daryl.
2003 Avalanche
1992 29S Wilderness
Him 47, Me 47,
DS 18, DD 16, DD 13, DD 11
OK, here's some content:
A quick and cheap way to storm-door:
Buy a clear shower curtain, cut it out to fit, just milimeters beyond your screen.
Put sticky velcro around the door, that's your permanent side.
Then put sticky velcro (opposite side) on the clear plastic you've cut. Do it a side at a time so you can adjust or cut.
Easy to take up and down, depending on weather, and then just fold and keep by the door. Sometimes I'll just peel the top part off and let the rest hang to let the air in.
Now, let's see more MODS!
Kathy & Scott
'05 Dodge Durango w/hemi
'12 Heartland Trail Runner
Please keep any new posts on topic or I will close this thread down. That would really be a shame because many here enjoy seeing and reading about the mods that people do to their rigs. If you do not care for the mod posts that people are making, I suggest you do not read this thread anymore. I am not going to spend any more time cleaning up this thread. Please take this post seriously!
Thank you.
Barney (moderator)
Les (Moderator)
Bump posts will instantly be deleted by myself...
Les - Moderator
Bob Vaughn wrote:
I have some neat mod's that I have done to my RV and would like to post them here...but the instructions are so convoluted I can't figure our how to do it.....I don't understand how some photos appear and some are just links to other sites.....?????
I have some neat mod's that I have done to my RV and would like to post them here...but the instructions are so convoluted I can't figure our how to do it.....I don't understand how some photos appear and some are just links to other sites.....?????
Have you checked out these posts?
If you still have problems, that forum moderator will be glad to help you out. Just send him a PM.
Barney
2005 Jayco Jayflight 28RLS
Upgraded from a 1999 Jayco Eagle 12UDK popup
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/ventstik/31459
2013 Palomino Sabre 34 REQS-6
http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/user/W........6?&_suid=1357224714962013706578115184365
What other mods are you doing this year? I may find more projects for him!!!
Thanks for any words of encouragement,
Vickie
Godsey97 wrote:
bump
bump
NOT FUNNY.
We all LOVE this thread.
The MODS have already done everything they can to prevent it including refusing a sticky.
If you get it killed, you will NOT be a popular person here.
vgoulette wrote:
My mods project for DH (before our big trip this season) will be to make the Lexan "storm" door!! Wish us luck -- he is really nervous about ruining a piece of Lexan. And, he is going back and forth about how to attach it -- clips, Velcro, or screwing it directly into the door frame.
The only problem that I had when cutting the Lexan/plexiglass was when I cut the radius on the corners. I used a handheld jigsaw, made some relief cuts and things worked out okay. Just go slow and the DH shouldn't have a problem. I attached mine with velcro to allow for ease of removal although I find that we seldom remove it. Others have used "mirror clips" which sounds like a good idea also. It was one of the best mods that I did.
My mods project for DH (before our big trip this season) will be to make the Lexan "storm" door!! Wish us luck -- he is really nervous about ruining a piece of Lexan. And, he is going back and forth about how to attach it -- clips, Velcro, or screwing it directly into the door frame.
TV: 05 Chevy 2500 8.1L
5er: 2010 Open Range 385RLS
Hensley Arrow and P3
2009 Jayco 308RLS
It would especially be good for people with big hands and fingers as they would be hard to get into the little grove. We also put on a screen door closer spring. Love it too. I highly recommend these three little mods. They are cheap to do and highly functional.
MarionMedic wrote:
snip......NOT FUNNY. We all LOVE this thread....snip
snip......NOT FUNNY. We all LOVE this thread....snip
I agree.
This is a very popular and informative thread, "bumping" it will close it for sure.
Turk2500
* This post was edited 04/26/09 03:42pm by DadToFourBoys *
The reel folds flat against the wall when not in use:
2009 F-250 Crew Cab 4x4(5.4 and 3.73's) - finally something dependable
2008 Jayco Jayflight 28BHS
Me, wife, one little girl and one little boy
all along for the ride.
Keith, Suzy two teenagers and a dog
2005 Seneca 35 GS Super C
2006 Dodge Durango with 5.7 Liter Hemi
I used a stud finder to locate the wood studs in the front wall. As you can see in the picture I attached 1 x 2 pine strips with #6 x 1 inch screws
Here's another view without the clutter
I then used some #6 by 1 1/4 inch screws to mount the pegboard
I added Pegboard to the rear side of the hatch as well
Finally a battery powered light that my neighbor gave me
I used the pine spacers for two reasons.
First you can't put a peg board hook in unless you have space in the rear.
Second, I was able to attach to more solidly to points in the trailer.
I realize that a picture of stuff actually hung on the pegboard would be helpful. But, for the life of me I couldn't find any. I'll see if I can spin by storage later today and snap a few.
* This post was edited 05/02/09 11:43am by opnspaces *
1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.
It is aluminum diamondplate with an aluminum bottom tray. Each side has a built-in lock. *** Notice the new Bedsaver ***
Diabs wrote:
(above post, peg board) Thats a great idea! Think I'll be borrowing that idea...just alittle stunned Jayco had no lights installed in that area....my Salem has two....one on each side.
(above post, peg board) Thats a great idea! Think I'll be borrowing that idea...just alittle stunned Jayco had no lights installed in that area....my Salem has two....one on each side.
Agreed on the lack of lights, I guess they have to cut corners to keep the cost down. Eventually I plan to add some hard wire lights but that's for another project.
Pitapony wrote:
But what keeps the rain off it when it's running? Or doesn't that really matter?
But what keeps the rain off it when it's running? Or doesn't that really matter?
The manual states that you should keep the generator dry. I have a clamp-on umbrella that attaches to the front rail of the truck box.
Satellite radio antenna:
External fridge evaporator tube fan:
Wanted the ability to hook up hose for when we dry camp and the old campfire gets out of hand:
Inside Plumbing of water spigot (Used what I had laying around, that's why it's a combination of things) :
1998 Fleetwood Wilderness 26H
2003 Chevy 2500 HD 6.0L
Thanks.
Ned
Ned wrote:
03281, where did you find that satellite antenna? I love my XM. It goes wherever I go.
Thanks.
Ned
03281, where did you find that satellite antenna? I love my XM. It goes wherever I go.
Thanks.
Ned
I saw them on eBay. Search XM Marine Antenna
* This post was edited 05/10/09 10:15pm by myhd *
Wanted a bumper mounted box for the slinkies and accessories
Mounted the blue tote to the frame for traveling. Still need to cut off the excess strapping.
Previously did these:
Stabilizer Jacks
AM/FM Antenna
Greg
2005 Chevy 3500 Express Extended - 6.0L, 3.73, RWD
1986 F-250 reg cab, long bed 4WD - 351WHO, 4.10, 4sp man.
2006 Crossroads Belair 31BTQB
1979 Starcrafte Elite 8 Pop-up
Me, DW, 2boys, 2girls, 1 beagle
Ned wrote:
03281, where did you find that satellite antenna? I love my XM. It goes wherever I go.
Thanks.
Ned
03281, where did you find that satellite antenna? I love my XM. It goes wherever I go.
Thanks.
Ned
I did get it new on ebay, but I waited and got it for $15.03.
It appears that the cabinetry was put in after the base floor, walls and ceiling was put in and so I believe I should be able to (cleanly) remove the cabinetry I need to remove and modify the existing pedestal.
Any insight from those of you in the industry and/or those that have done this would be greatly appreciated! I am also going to contact Forest River to see if they will be willing to shine some light on the build process so I can reverse engineer some of what they have done.
Here's the layout of our trailer and a couple photos. The head would be opposite the entry door and the mattress side would be up against the front. I would leave the overhead and drawers near the door.
Thanks and Happy Camping!
2006 GMC 3500HD CCSRW4X4 DURAMAX Allison EDGE EVOLUTION tuner
2012 Keystone Avalanche 330RE 5th wheel 4 slides
statements in this post should be considered opinions and not facts
It appears that the cabinetry was put in after the base floor, walls and ceiling was put in and so I believe I should be able to (cleanly) remove the cabinetry I need to remove and modify the existing pedestal.
Any insight from those of you in the industry and/or those that have done this would be greatly appreciated! I am also going to contact Forest River to see if they will be willing to shine some light on the build process so I can reverse engineer some of what they have done.
Here's the layout of our trailer and a couple photos. The head would be opposite the entry door and the mattress side would be up against the front. I would leave the overhead and drawers near the door.
Quote:
I am thinking about doing the same thing. Our TT is permanently parked so if there is any question about redistribution of weight it probably wouldn't affect us.
Shari
Wisconsin - the best place to be!
I am thinking about doing the same thing. Our TT is permanently parked so if there is any question about redistribution of weight it probably wouldn't affect us.
Shari
Wisconsin - the best place to be!
stugpanzer wrote:
I have a question to see if anybody has done a mod that I am thinking of doing. We have a Rockwood 8314ss 33' TT. The front bedroom has the (RV size) queen island bed. I am thinking of removing the drawers and overhead on one side, modify the platform and put a residential size queen bed in cross ways. So instead of the head of the bed being at the front of the trailer, it would be turned so that the head is on one side.
It appears that the cabinetry was put in after the base floor, walls and ceiling was put in and so I believe I should be able to (cleanly) remove the cabinetry I need to remove and modify the existing pedestal.
Any insight from those of you in the industry and/or those that have done this would be greatly appreciated! I am also going to contact Forest River to see if they will be willing to shine some light on the build process so I can reverse engineer some of what they have done.
Here's the layout of our trailer and a couple photos. The head would be opposite the entry door and the mattress side would be up against the front. I would leave the overhead and drawers near the door.
Thanks and Happy Camping!
I have a question to see if anybody has done a mod that I am thinking of doing. We have a Rockwood 8314ss 33' TT. The front bedroom has the (RV size) queen island bed. I am thinking of removing the drawers and overhead on one side, modify the platform and put a residential size queen bed in cross ways. So instead of the head of the bed being at the front of the trailer, it would be turned so that the head is on one side.
It appears that the cabinetry was put in after the base floor, walls and ceiling was put in and so I believe I should be able to (cleanly) remove the cabinetry I need to remove and modify the existing pedestal.
Any insight from those of you in the industry and/or those that have done this would be greatly appreciated! I am also going to contact Forest River to see if they will be willing to shine some light on the build process so I can reverse engineer some of what they have done.
Here's the layout of our trailer and a couple photos. The head would be opposite the entry door and the mattress side would be up against the front. I would leave the overhead and drawers near the door.
Thanks and Happy Camping!
I have the same bedroom layout except the bedroom dorway is against the wall on street side. I added a full size queen matress on top of the RV queen (60 x 80) foam matress pad. The matress is about 6 inches longer and since the front wall slopes upward where the matress buts up against it the matress sets further forward about 3 inches while on top of the foam matress pad . I can still scoot sideways accross between the foot of the matress and wall.
Here is my bed strut mod, trailer did not have any from factory, tried 40# struts first, would not stay open, next size at campingworld was 80# in the 20" size, holds open very well. The stock board was 3/8" luan 56" x 34" I changed it to 3/8" plywood 59" x 38", I changed from short queen to fullsize sleepnumber bed minus one piece of 4" foam, tv cabonet wont allow full size matress. I used 1x4s for the bracket supports and added 2 more hinges because the plywood was bending allot.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum.
* This post was last edited 06/21/09 07:44pm by an administrator/moderator *
13 F250 6.2L XLT CCSB 4x4 4.30 gears
09 Keystone Passport 290BH UF elec jack,30"scissor jacks+Eliminator Strut Stabilizer,PD9160+wizard,custom bumper hitch,added 18.5gal FW tank,dualcam HP 1200# WD,Fantastic Fan,Axle Flip,Lexan screen door covers.
My Mods.
Before
After
Before
After, I also moved the curtain boxes up 3.5" for more usable windows.
More on my Webshots page.
A "Retired" Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste
Foreman Chuck USNR, USAF & USCGA
with
Headhoncho Suzie
BAR-BOB Ranch, San Barnard River Valley, Texas
2010 Damon Daybreak Classic 32'
1990 Jeep Wrangler
2011 Sea Eagle 385 FT kayak
2012 Vilano Tuono road bike
ctpres wrote:
New to this RV thing but oldtimer in security. What items typically get legs and walk off or disappear. In the RV park? On the road? Not woried about RV in storage as that is more a function of the storage location? Don't want to waste to much time trying to secure or alarm something that rarely is stolen or not know about something and loose it.
New to this RV thing but oldtimer in security. What items typically get legs and walk off or disappear. In the RV park? On the road? Not woried about RV in storage as that is more a function of the storage location? Don't want to waste to much time trying to secure or alarm something that rarely is stolen or not know about something and loose it.
With over 30 yrs. of camping the only thing we have 'lost' is beach towels that our kids 'left someplace'. Even if we are away from the TT (at the beach, the playground, etc.) we very seldom even lock our door. Maybe we have been lucky? About the only time we lock the door is at night - to keep a toddler grandchild from getting out when adults are sleeping.
Shari
fornarog wrote:
Finished these this weekend.
Wanted a bumper mounted box for the slinkies and accessories
Mounted the blue tote to the frame for traveling. Still need to cut off the excess strapping.
Previously did these:
Stabilizer Jacks
AM/FM Antenna
Finished these this weekend.
Wanted a bumper mounted box for the slinkies and accessories
Mounted the blue tote to the frame for traveling. Still need to cut off the excess strapping.
Previously did these:
Stabilizer Jacks
AM/FM Antenna
I just made a bumper mount just like that, its almost like you took a pic of mine, lol, but I used it for a hitch mount bike rack.
gj
Ken
* This post was edited 06/22/09 03:28pm by an administrator/moderator *
Where did you purchase the square cylinder the sewer hose is in?
Thanks
Loopy wrote:
Well, we picked up our new 20BH not too long ago and I was itching to do some mods so without further delay....
Here's just a general pic of the outside
And another from the other side
Hot water heater screen cover
Furnace screen cover
Fridge vent covers
Sewer hose storage all closed up
Opened up
The TT had the small switches for the lighting and I really like the bigger ones so just inside the front door and the bath got these treatments.
I'm not a huge fan of the plastic camper lights on the ceiling so those got replaced and so did the ugly decorative fixture over the dinette. I used regular 110 volt house fixtures with 12 volt A15 bulbs.
The two round lights are switched by the door but i had to reuse the 12v switch from teh ugly fixture for the spot lights.
We have a dog so a bag holder near the door is a must
Every camper needs a soap dispenser and a paper towel holder. I also reused one of the double plastic ceiling lights over the sink rather than the small single one that was there.
The bed area didn't have any shelving that was open to put a clock on so..
The original theater system (seen on bottom shelf) with DVD player built in just wasn't cutting it quality wise so I added a Sony home theater receiver and kept the original one for the DVD player alone.
The 20" TV that came with the camper was nice but it wasn't HD so we replaced it with a 26" HDTV and a swivel arm mount.
Can't live without the Oxygenics shower head
Added a positive flow shut off to it
And of course, no one likes a clingy shower curtain or water getting everywhere so we added clip holders and corner water stops.
There's a few more things (digital thermostat replacement, counter top extension) I want to do before our maiden voyage in it but these are a good start. If anyone has any questions on what I posted feel free to ask away!
Well, we picked up our new 20BH not too long ago and I was itching to do some mods so without further delay....
Here's just a general pic of the outside
And another from the other side
Hot water heater screen cover
Furnace screen cover
Fridge vent covers
Sewer hose storage all closed up
Opened up
The TT had the small switches for the lighting and I really like the bigger ones so just inside the front door and the bath got these treatments.
I'm not a huge fan of the plastic camper lights on the ceiling so those got replaced and so did the ugly decorative fixture over the dinette. I used regular 110 volt house fixtures with 12 volt A15 bulbs.
The two round lights are switched by the door but i had to reuse the 12v switch from teh ugly fixture for the spot lights.
We have a dog so a bag holder near the door is a must
Every camper needs a soap dispenser and a paper towel holder. I also reused one of the double plastic ceiling lights over the sink rather than the small single one that was there.
The bed area didn't have any shelving that was open to put a clock on so..
The original theater system (seen on bottom shelf) with DVD player built in just wasn't cutting it quality wise so I added a Sony home theater receiver and kept the original one for the DVD player alone.
The 20" TV that came with the camper was nice but it wasn't HD so we replaced it with a 26" HDTV and a swivel arm mount.
Can't live without the Oxygenics shower head
Added a positive flow shut off to it
And of course, no one likes a clingy shower curtain or water getting everywhere so we added clip holders and corner water stops.
There's a few more things (digital thermostat replacement, counter top extension) I want to do before our maiden voyage in it but these are a good start. If anyone has any questions on what I posted feel free to ask away!
stugpanzer wrote:
Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
I just did a similar mod last winter in the front bedroom of our Holiday Rambler 26RKS ... except we re-installed full-length 30x80 'half-queen' mattresses, one down either side of the rig, and created a center walkway. Not quite as romantic as a regular queen, but I'm 6'1" and my wife is 5'10" so anything less than a full-length mattress gets old fast. We had custom mattresses made with firm support and pillow tops - worth every penny based on our trips so far this year. Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
You'd be amazed how little structure was actually in the old pedestal. I removed a few long wood screws, pulled out a few staples, and it was history. My new twin support frames are built *much* better and each will have a large drawer on heavy-weight full-extension drawer glides so the under-bed storage is just about doubled.
Here's the modified floorplan :
The only real trick was moving the slider door for the bathroom to the opposite side of the partition, which meant moving the vanity about 3" closer to the shower - fortunately there was room to do this and no plumbing changes were required.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
* This post was edited 06/21/09 12:45pm by an administrator/moderator *
StuartW
2004.5 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie
CTD HO 4x4 SRW LWB QC / Leer 100XQ cap
2005 HR Savoy SL 26RKS
79fordman wrote:
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
Nice job 79Fordman!
79fordman wrote:
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
We just tie a rope between the awning arms to dry things and it can keep them drying even in the rain or if overnight from any Dew that might happen.
It looks like what you had hanging up is all on the ground from the pic you posted.
Larry
Two down and fifty to go.
LarryJM wrote:
We just tie a rope between the awning arms to dry things and it can keep them drying even in the rain or if overnight from any Dew that might happen.
It looks like what you had hanging up is all on the ground from the pic you posted.
Larry
79fordman wrote:
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
Hi new here just wanted to show my homemade cloth line i put on my camper. I know you can buy these but i thought buying takes all the fun out of making it.
We just tie a rope between the awning arms to dry things and it can keep them drying even in the rain or if overnight from any Dew that might happen.
It looks like what you had hanging up is all on the ground from the pic you posted.
Larry
Yeah just had my polishing rags hanging on it to make sure i had the ropes tight enough and wouldn't you know it a storm rolled in.
ctpres wrote:
OK Security mod #1. License plates tend to end up on other vehicles. So I removed factory/dealer screws and replaced them with 1/4 x 1 carriage bolts. Not theft proof but much more difficult and time consuming to remove. To make them even a little harder to get off you can always bung the threads up a little.
OK Security mod #1. License plates tend to end up on other vehicles. So I removed factory/dealer screws and replaced them with 1/4 x 1 carriage bolts. Not theft proof but much more difficult and time consuming to remove. To make them even a little harder to get off you can always bung the threads up a little.
We did the same thing. We have a neat camping related word on ours, and are sure it would walk if not secured. I intend on relocating it to our ladder (when I install it) and then using some stainless tamper-proof bolts.
2010 Ford 250 Superduty Harley Davidson 6.4L Stock. 2011 Jayco Flight G2 32BHDS
Added the cheap bubbles so I don't have to carry around the big level...
StuartW wrote:
You'd be amazed how little structure was actually in the old pedestal. I removed a few long wood screws, pulled out a few staples, and it was history. My new twin support frames are built *much* better and each will have a large drawer on heavy-weight full-extension drawer glides so the under-bed storage is just about doubled.
Here's the modified floorplan :
The only real trick was moving the slider door for the bathroom to the opposite side of the partition, which meant moving the vanity about 3" closer to the shower - fortunately there was room to do this and no plumbing changes were required.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
stugpanzer wrote:
Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
I just did a similar mod last winter in the front bedroom of our Holiday Rambler 26RKS ... except we re-installed full-length 30x80 'half-queen' mattresses, one down either side of the rig, and created a center walkway. Not quite as romantic as a regular queen, but I'm 6'1" and my wife is 5'10" so anything less than a full-length mattress gets old fast. We had custom mattresses made with firm support and pillow tops - worth every penny based on our trips so far this year. Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
You'd be amazed how little structure was actually in the old pedestal. I removed a few long wood screws, pulled out a few staples, and it was history. My new twin support frames are built *much* better and each will have a large drawer on heavy-weight full-extension drawer glides so the under-bed storage is just about doubled.
Here's the modified floorplan :
The only real trick was moving the slider door for the bathroom to the opposite side of the partition, which meant moving the vanity about 3" closer to the shower - fortunately there was room to do this and no plumbing changes were required.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
Where did you get half queens from? I love this set up. Lot's more room. Scott
I was nervous about all the cutting but did price the lexan. Then we took the door off the TT and took it to the local "True Value" neighborhood hardware store and told them what we wanted. They custom cut the plexiglass around the "slider door" and the hinges, etc. They also screwed it to the frame. All I had to do was hang it back on the hinges. If we want it removed, just take out the screws. It was GREAT (did I say that already..LOL) $42.00 total.
Now a question. Did the HUNTER thermostat mod, worked great in the spring with the furnace, but noticed a problem with the AC. As long as the temp was way off (stat set at 68-70 and the temp 90) the AC ran fine, would get to the desired temp and then shut off.
THe problem was the ambient temp in the TT would start to creep up and the AC would start to hum but not put any air out and then cut off. Almost like it did not have enough amperage to kick the compressor on. I pulled the OE stat out of the junk drawer and changed it back, wored great rest of weekend, any ideas?
Also going to add some side lighting to see where the tires are and a manual switch to turn them on and off. Right now they come on with the TV reverse lights.
1. Small bungee cord secured to rear corners of shelfs used for tall item storage. Just pull bungee out and set items behind it for travel. Have 25 ft 3/16 on the way.
2. Really bugs me to see shinney metal duct work in floor registers. So I am going to paint air ducts flat black.
Godsey97 wrote:
Just came back from Gatlinburg over Father's Day weekend. We had also just completed the plexi/lexan screen door mod before we left it was SOOOOO nice. Had the door open all weekend with the AC running, plenty of light in the TT and it stayed cool.
I was nervous about all the cutting but did price the lexan. Then we took the door off the TT and took it to the local "True Value" neighborhood hardware store and told them what we wanted. They custom cut the plexiglass around the "slider door" and the hinges, etc. They also screwed it to the frame. All I had to do was hang it back on the hinges. If we want it removed, just take out the screws. It was GREAT (did I say that already..LOL) $42.00 total.
Now a question. Did the HUNTER thermostat mod, worked great in the spring with the furnace, but noticed a problem with the AC. As long as the temp was way off (stat set at 68-70 and the temp 90) the AC ran fine, would get to the desired temp and then shut off.
THe problem was the ambient temp in the TT would start to creep up and the AC would start to hum but not put any air out and then cut off. Almost like it did not have enough amperage to kick the compressor on. I pulled the OE stat out of the junk drawer and changed it back, wored great rest of weekend, any ideas?
Just came back from Gatlinburg over Father's Day weekend. We had also just completed the plexi/lexan screen door mod before we left it was SOOOOO nice. Had the door open all weekend with the AC running, plenty of light in the TT and it stayed cool.
I was nervous about all the cutting but did price the lexan. Then we took the door off the TT and took it to the local "True Value" neighborhood hardware store and told them what we wanted. They custom cut the plexiglass around the "slider door" and the hinges, etc. They also screwed it to the frame. All I had to do was hang it back on the hinges. If we want it removed, just take out the screws. It was GREAT (did I say that already..LOL) $42.00 total.
Now a question. Did the HUNTER thermostat mod, worked great in the spring with the furnace, but noticed a problem with the AC. As long as the temp was way off (stat set at 68-70 and the temp 90) the AC ran fine, would get to the desired temp and then shut off.
THe problem was the ambient temp in the TT would start to creep up and the AC would start to hum but not put any air out and then cut off. Almost like it did not have enough amperage to kick the compressor on. I pulled the OE stat out of the junk drawer and changed it back, wored great rest of weekend, any ideas?
Sure sounds like a amperage problem, or lack there of, I would triple check all your wiring connections.
NCH
2000 Ford F350 4X4 PSD,CC, DRW
4:10's, BTM Muffler, Isspro Gauges,
Coolant Filter,CCV Mod
FTVB , Ford AIS
6.0 Cooler,SCT2 W/DP's 40 tow & 80 econo,Zoodad mod
2005 Keystone Hornet 30BHSS
Reese Dual Cam
Family of 4 saved by Grace!!!
MY TRUCK
OUR TRAILER
Wife said it sure would be nice if there was more shelves. I figured we don't use the long closet so hey why not put shelves in it.
I got tired of the old am/fm cass. so i put this in.
wife wanted a shelf above the bed to put her book on after she is done reading at night.
so i thought why not put one on my side.
hmmmmmm wife wants alot of things done to this either she knows i love doing this or she wants me out of the house lol. i think she knows i love doing this. hopefully more mods to come.
Trail Cruiser 21 RBH 2005, Jeep Liberty 2005.
79fordman wrote:
Very nice. I like that idea.
Mods I've done (sorry, no pics):
Made a couple areas that had been marked not-for-storage usable for storage.
Put ClosetMaid slide-out metal baskets in the pantry - now it's easy to reach the stuff at the back.
Installed 2 6v batteries and battery cut-off switch.
Installed Barker tongue jack.
Installed towel hooks (4 of them) and a hand-towel ring in the bathroom.
Installed towel hook and a paper towel holder in the kitchen area.
Replaced all interior lightbulbs and the porch light with LEDs.
That's it so far, but I have plans to do something with the "wardrobe" cabinet - it needs shelves.
Trailer is a 2009 Trail-Sport TSE21RBH.
2009 Trail-Sport TS21RBH
2008 Toyota Sienna
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximium.
* This post was edited 07/14/09 07:04pm by an administrator/moderator *
ctpres wrote:
...I put decorative contact paper on back side of mirrors on cabinet and closet doors. 1. To protect back side of mirror finish from scratching by loose objects...
...I put decorative contact paper on back side of mirrors on cabinet and closet doors. 1. To protect back side of mirror finish from scratching by loose objects...
We did the same thing to the back of the medicine cabinet door (Ours has a mirror inset). What a difference. I can see how it would work nicely if you had mirrors inset on other cabinet doors too. The DW actually saw this on a used unit last year. She gets some great ideas just from looking at used units every now and then.
Me'73 DW'?? DS'01 DD'05
"Campin' Dog" Boxer'08
"Campin' Pup" Schizon'11
2013 Springdale 303BH
States we've camped in:
I worked long and hard for you guys with Administration to establish this sub-catagory for modifications for all of you and I would hope that all of you would respect the forum rules concerning "bumping"... I chose not to make it a "sticky" because sticky posts usually have a limited life... This thread could run for a long, long, time if you all follow the simple rules of the forum so let's make sure that there is no more of that "bumping" stuff...
Les - Moderator TT Forum
* This post was edited 07/20/09 09:18am by LAdams *
Mod Photos
ScottandCathy wrote:
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I'm looking at this also as I'm concerned about critters climbing onboard through the electrical portal. Any thoughts?
'06 Hummer H2 SUT 6.0L P3/Equal-I-zer,Hypertech III
'04 Starcraft Aruba 25RS powered by Honda eu3000is
DW, '99 DS, '01 Golden Retriever, '08 Schnauzer
texashornsfan wrote:
I'm looking at this also as I'm concerned about critters climbing onboard through the electrical portal. Any thoughts?
ScottandCathy wrote:
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I'm looking at this also as I'm concerned about critters climbing onboard through the electrical portal. Any thoughts?
Steel wool in the hole. I can't see spending that kind of money on the conversion kit.
I put a piece of wood for support on the end of the cabinet and installed the cabinet extension. Still need to stain the support wood.
Great Addition.
Bucky Badger wrote:
Steel wool in the hole. I can't see spending that kind of money on the conversion kit.
texashornsfan wrote:
I'm looking at this also as I'm concerned about critters climbing onboard through the electrical portal. Any thoughts?
ScottandCathy wrote:
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I will be converting my electrical cord to a detachable style.(Conversion kit) For those of you that have done this conversion, anything tricky I should be aware of??
I'm looking at this also as I'm concerned about critters climbing onboard through the electrical portal. Any thoughts?
Steel wool in the hole. I can't see spending that kind of money on the conversion kit.
The kit is as easy as it says. I did it simply as I liked the advantage of taking off my power cord and stowing it elsewhere rather than stuffing it. It's also seals the hole from bugs, rodents or errant kids looking for a place for their trash.
/Jeff
campin4kids wrote:
ctpres, a picture would help.
ctpres, a picture would help.
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
ctpres wrote:
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
campin4kids wrote:
ctpres, a picture would help.
ctpres, a picture would help.
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
Really? I like their policy. Reduces their cost as they don't have to pay for the bandwidth of your pictures. Even better than that, I retain the publishing rights to my pictures as I can take them down anytime simply by changing my photo account or moving my server. Sounds like you just want a reason to be a cranky 70 year old who doesn't want to change with the times.
Signed, a 30 something year-old techie...
snarfattack wrote:
Really? I like their policy. Reduces their cost as they don't have to pay for the bandwidth of your pictures. Even better than that, I retain the publishing rights to my pictures as I can take them down anytime simply by changing my photo account or moving my server. Sounds like you just want a reason to be a cranky 70 year old who doesn't want to change with the times.
Signed, a 30 something year-old techie...
ctpres wrote:
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
campin4kids wrote:
ctpres, a picture would help.
ctpres, a picture would help.
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
Really? I like their policy. Reduces their cost as they don't have to pay for the bandwidth of your pictures. Even better than that, I retain the publishing rights to my pictures as I can take them down anytime simply by changing my photo account or moving my server. Sounds like you just want a reason to be a cranky 70 year old who doesn't want to change with the times.
Signed, a 30 something year-old techie...
ctpres wrote:
snarfattack wrote:
Really? I like their policy. Reduces their cost as they don't have to pay for the bandwidth of your pictures. Even better than that, I retain the publishing rights to my pictures as I can take them down anytime simply by changing my photo account or moving my server. Sounds like you just want a reason to be a cranky 70 year old who doesn't want to change with the times.
Signed, a 30 something year-old techie...
ctpres wrote:
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
campin4kids wrote:
ctpres, a picture would help.
ctpres, a picture would help.
Yes I agree . But I am a 70 year old techie and I really find the picture posting here older than me. When it gets brought up to date I'll post lots of pistures. I really think there is no use in posting pictures off the site in todays world. Just a SWAG but about 10% of the pictures I look at are gone. Sorry if my words didn't get it done.
For my double door Dometic-visualize a 1/2" inch thick piece of wood between the doors with a block nailed on each end. You can slide it closer to the hinges or latch to adjust the opening.
Really? I like their policy. Reduces their cost as they don't have to pay for the bandwidth of your pictures. Even better than that, I retain the publishing rights to my pictures as I can take them down anytime simply by changing my photo account or moving my server. Sounds like you just want a reason to be a cranky 70 year old who doesn't want to change with the times.
Signed, a 30 something year-old techie...
Now we know who is stopping improvements at rv.net. Most of us are just interested in sharing ideas and having a little fun . Most of us are not interested in making money off our efforts on the forum.
Triathlete wrote:
snip......All of these things add weight. Are there concerns about exceeding the posted weight limits of the trailer?
snip......All of these things add weight. Are there concerns about exceeding the posted weight limits of the trailer?
Yes. Anytime a modification is made one should always consider the impact to the integrity of the RV, along with towing characteristics. If a modification is going to add "notable" weight, a trip to the CAT scales should be part of the modification as well (check WD adjustments, weights, etc.).
Turk2500
Not fun, but I sure like the way it turned out.
2003 Layton Skyline 196LT
2007 Toyota Tundra
mxsjw wrote:
Dryrot found in the rear, turned into a nice new Wilsonart HD laminate shower.
Not fun, but I sure like the way it turned out.
Dryrot found in the rear, turned into a nice new Wilsonart HD laminate shower.
Not fun, but I sure like the way it turned out.
That looks very very nice.
2005 Salem
2004 Ford Excursion Limited 6.0L 4x4 Diesel
"If we ever forget that we're one nation under God then we will be a nation gone under." - Ronald Reagan
Now I just got a new TT with a anode rod in the water heater, and I wanted the same kind of drain valve, after a search I found this
Anode Rod with drain valve problem solved!!
2011 Ram Hemi 4x4
2012 Denali 261BH
First we installed a Blue Streak Chemical dispenser to the toilet.
Second: Added a Barker Power Tongue Jack...no more cranking...YAY!!!
And Finally got around to installing a receiver hitch to the back of the trailer for our bike rack.
Kevin & Crew
DH Kevin
DW Cathy
Joe 21 & Krisi 18
Jenny Our Angel Remembering Jenny
Abbie (Rescued Treeing Walker Coonhound)
Guido (Rescued Italian Greyhound)Remembering Guido
Kendall (Rescued Border Collie Mix)
My dog isn't spoiled..........He just smells that way.
Shari
Yak Fishin Fool wrote:
Where did you get half queens from? I love this set up. Lot's more room. Scott
StuartW wrote:
You'd be amazed how little structure was actually in the old pedestal. I removed a few long wood screws, pulled out a few staples, and it was history. My new twin support frames are built *much* better and each will have a large drawer on heavy-weight full-extension drawer glides so the under-bed storage is just about doubled.
Here's the modified floorplan :
The only real trick was moving the slider door for the bathroom to the opposite side of the partition, which meant moving the vanity about 3" closer to the shower - fortunately there was room to do this and no plumbing changes were required.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
stugpanzer wrote:
Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
I just did a similar mod last winter in the front bedroom of our Holiday Rambler 26RKS ... except we re-installed full-length 30x80 'half-queen' mattresses, one down either side of the rig, and created a center walkway. Not quite as romantic as a regular queen, but I'm 6'1" and my wife is 5'10" so anything less than a full-length mattress gets old fast. We had custom mattresses made with firm support and pillow tops - worth every penny based on our trips so far this year. Ok.....I just talked to a rep from Forest river and yes.....all the cabinets that I want to remove are just screwed in place and are not structural! And.....as long as I don't tear things up, I will not void my warranty! Once I get going on this....I will post photos!
You'd be amazed how little structure was actually in the old pedestal. I removed a few long wood screws, pulled out a few staples, and it was history. My new twin support frames are built *much* better and each will have a large drawer on heavy-weight full-extension drawer glides so the under-bed storage is just about doubled.
Here's the modified floorplan :
The only real trick was moving the slider door for the bathroom to the opposite side of the partition, which meant moving the vanity about 3" closer to the shower - fortunately there was room to do this and no plumbing changes were required.
Note: Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum limit of 640px maximum.
Where did you get half queens from? I love this set up. Lot's more room. Scott
Hi Scott,
Sorry for the delay in reply ... I must not have subscribed for notifications on this post. Anyway, we got the mattresses at a local outfit called The Original Mattress Factory. They'll make you any size you want in any firmness you want with or without pillow tops. There was about a 2 week lead time.
The new mattresses are working out great and we really appreciate the extra length plus the room to walk between the beds. Note that the pass-through storage between what is now the foot of each bed acts like a bench for putting your shoes on, etc ... will have to ask the DW to make a custom cushion to go there!
Right now I've just ordered some unfinished cabinet doors and drawer fronts so that I can finish up the new storage drawers (one under each bed) and the revised overhead cabinets across the front of the coach. I've found via other projects in this rig that red oak with a single coat of MinWax Golden Pecan stain plus three coats of spray semi-gloss polyurethane matches the factory wood very closely ...
The storage drawers are 12Hx36Wx24D and are on heavy duty 100# full extension glides. They should hold quite a bit in terms of hiking boots, etc.
The overhead cabinets in the nose had to be shortened a bit (9") on either side (where the useless shirt closets used to be) for more footroom. These are now nice cabinets with two fixed shelves so they're good for sweatshirts, folded jeans, and all other 'real world' camping stuff that never gets put on hangers anyway! I'll post photos when it's all done.
Cheers ...
Cheers,
Kevin
On the road again...
EVT0005 wrote:
I second the B/U light mod..
Also going to add some side lighting to see where the tires are and a manual switch to turn them on and off. Right now they come on with the TV reverse lights.
I second the B/U light mod..
Also going to add some side lighting to see where the tires are and a manual switch to turn them on and off. Right now they come on with the TV reverse lights.
If you buy a 7-pin socket (< $10, like on your truck, but without the mounting bracket) and jump the 'hot' lead to the 'backup' lead, you can just plug your Trailer-to-Truck wire into this when you disconnect from your truck. You will now have the reverse lights without needing to wire in relays, switches, etc. I do the same thing with my running lights, to have them on at night for a nice gentle glow around the trailer, but not too bright.
Link to wiring connector to buy
Link to diagram showing pin locations on connectors
Mike & Tracy Boyd
2013 LaCrosse 318BHS Travel Trailer - Forest River - Prime Time
2006 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Crewcab SB DMax/Allison
Graduated from 1999 Dodge Ram Extended 2wd 5.9L &
1996 Jayco 1208KB Popup
then from a 2005 Prowler Lynx Ultralite 29BHS
This winter I want to build drawers under the beds.
before
after
Nice job ... great minds think alike! Your new layout looks very well done and I can appreciate the in-process pictures as I took out all the cabinets and brought them home to work on, so I've got pieces of the RV bedroom scattered around my garage at the moment. The bedroom seems much bigger, at least for the next week or so until the cabinets go back in!
The way you modded the cabinets was actually my original plan, and in fact I was even thinking of adding a drawer or two below the shirt closet to fill in above the pass-through storage area and provide some support for the shirt closet. One option vs. the drawers was to make it an equipment bay to house an inverter since it's so close to the batteries.
We decided to use the rig a few times before we made any final decisions, though, and we ended up putting the head of the beds towards the center bath and our feet towards the front of the trailer to make it easier to get in and out - the pass-through extends far enough on our rig that it was a little awkward the other way (but not a big deal). Also we found ourselves using the pass-through as a seat or a landing zone for duffel bags, gear, etc.
It was a real coin toss vs. your plan, but our final design (I ordered the cabinet doors, drawer fronts, and drawer boxes yesterday from Cabinet Door Shop) will have the two modified cabinets on the outside (now 27" tall vs. 36"), the original short 16" cabinets across the middle connecting the two along the ceiling (as before), and a new bookshelf with fiddle rail spanning below the short cabinets to fill in the 'notch' created by the difference in cabinet heights. The shelf will be great for books, clock radio, etc. It'll hopefully be easier to see in pictures that I'll post when done.
Stuart
ctpres wrote:
Now we know who is stopping improvements at rv.net. Most of us are just interested in sharing ideas and having a little fun . Most of us are not interested in making money off our efforts on the forum.
Now we know who is stopping improvements at rv.net. Most of us are just interested in sharing ideas and having a little fun . Most of us are not interested in making money off our efforts on the forum.
Asking for photos to illustrate what you're talking about is "stopping improvements?" Posting pictures "makes money" for someone? I don't think so. Ever heard the saying, "A picture is worth 1,000 words?" Don't post photos if you don't want to help people understand what you did, but the conspiracy theory is a bit much.
Lou Castle wrote:
Asking for photos to illustrate what you're talking about is "stopping improvements?" Posting pictures "makes money" for someone? I don't think so. Ever heard the saying, "A picture is worth 1,000 words?" Don't post photos if you don't want to help people understand what you did, but the conspiracy theory is a bit much.
ctpres wrote:
Now we know who is stopping improvements at rv.net. Most of us are just interested in sharing ideas and having a little fun . Most of us are not interested in making money off our efforts on the forum.
Now we know who is stopping improvements at rv.net. Most of us are just interested in sharing ideas and having a little fun . Most of us are not interested in making money off our efforts on the forum.
Asking for photos to illustrate what you're talking about is "stopping improvements?" Posting pictures "makes money" for someone? I don't think so. Ever heard the saying, "A picture is worth 1,000 words?" Don't post photos if you don't want to help people understand what you did, but the conspiracy theory is a bit much.
Please read the post I was responding to.
And now back to the fantastic Cool Mods thread.
My latest mods: A back-up camera with night vision out to thirty plus feet. It is hardwired all the way from outside rear of TT to visor of TV and a new radio with: AM/AM, iPod/iplug, MP3/WMA CD and hands free bluetooth for our cell phone.
We live better on the road than at home. UHH why do we go home? Maybe one day we won't.
ctpres wrote:
Please read the post I was responding to.
And now back to the fantastic Cool Mods thread.
My latest mods: A back-up camera with night vision out to thirty plus feet. It is hardwired all the way from outside rear of TT to visor of TV and a new radio with: AM/AM, iPod/iplug, MP3/WMA CD and hands free bluetooth for our cell phone.
We live better on the road than at home. UHH why do we go home? Maybe one day we won't.
Please read the post I was responding to.
And now back to the fantastic Cool Mods thread.
My latest mods: A back-up camera with night vision out to thirty plus feet. It is hardwired all the way from outside rear of TT to visor of TV and a new radio with: AM/AM, iPod/iplug, MP3/WMA CD and hands free bluetooth for our cell phone.
We live better on the road than at home. UHH why do we go home? Maybe one day we won't.
Yeah, sure, it's cool for you, you get to see the pictures that others post...
I like having the pics posted on different servers. It keeps the costs down (FREE) which means that we are only subjected to a few ads, rather than a column of posts and an equal column of ads.
http://community.webshots.com/user/93STPD
* This post was last edited 09/08/09 07:53am by 93STPD *
Hunter Digital thermostat mod.
Propane tubing refit: On our Pioneer TT, the propane tubing is directly behind the tires on the drivers side. When the tire does go, the tread has broken away and struck the tubing a couple of times. The tubing is 3/4" refrigeration grade (heavy wall) copper tubing while the piping is 1/2" black iron. What I just finished is to cut into the tubing and install flared couplings. Hopefully, the next time that I watcha tire go away, I'll only have to deal with the loss of a 20" section of tubing versus having to replace an entire tubing run.
Found an oak towel pin and installed it on the side of our sink.
More to come as I have a digital tv converter to install next...
I thought the medicine cabinet was silly as it would spill out on me if I kept anything in it. I like the cheap mods so I cut lengths of wire from metal hangers that were in my closet and simply drilled some holes in the wall of the medicine cabinet. I put 2 wires across each shelf to keep the short and the tall stuff from spilling over.
I also noticed there was a larger gap than I like to see between the tub and the wall liner so I caulked it with silicone to keep mold or rot from starting, I strongly recommend everyone do this as it's cheap and easy to prevent a very expensive problem.
2009 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4x4 6.4L Diesel
Springdale 291RKSSR
Wife and 2 pugs to travel the world with.
Poconos Pennsylvania
2007 Gulf Stream Gulf Breeze 23TRS
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab
4X2 5.7 hemi 3.55 rear
RIP Mike, we miss you so much
bigc3031 wrote:
I also noticed there was a larger gap than I like to see between the tub and the wall liner so I caulked it with silicone to keep mold or rot from starting, I strongly recommend everyone do this as it's cheap and easy to prevent a very expensive problem.
I also noticed there was a larger gap than I like to see between the tub and the wall liner so I caulked it with silicone to keep mold or rot from starting, I strongly recommend everyone do this as it's cheap and easy to prevent a very expensive problem.
Interesting - my 2008 TT has this same gap and mfr specifically states NOT to seal this - is designed to allow water to drain down into tub after using shower and prevent the mod/rot that you describe.
dkhender wrote:
Interesting - my 2008 TT has this same gap and mfr specifically states NOT to seal this - is designed to allow water to drain down into tub after using shower and prevent the mod/rot that you describe.
bigc3031 wrote:
I also noticed there was a larger gap than I like to see between the tub and the wall liner so I caulked it with silicone to keep mold or rot from starting, I strongly recommend everyone do this as it's cheap and easy to prevent a very expensive problem.
I also noticed there was a larger gap than I like to see between the tub and the wall liner so I caulked it with silicone to keep mold or rot from starting, I strongly recommend everyone do this as it's cheap and easy to prevent a very expensive problem.
Interesting - my 2008 TT has this same gap and mfr specifically states NOT to seal this - is designed to allow water to drain down into tub after using shower and prevent the mod/rot that you describe.
I didn't read it, but we were told the same thing -- not to seal it -- when we did our PDI.
Vickie
I got the shelf through my dealer. It's from a shelf in another Keystone model that is also used as a counter extension and was the same pattern.
Since the paneling is just 1/4" thick a frame work is needed to make it solid enough.
This picture shows what it looks like inside the cabinet.
This picture shows two 1x4 boards that I screwed to the frame work.
This picture shows a couple boards I stuck in between the first boards in the area the brackets will be. These happen to be 3/4" plywood just because I had a couple scrap pieces that happened to be the size I needed.
The finished result.
This is how I store my sewer hose. Bought a vinyl fence post from Lowe's. Screwed an end cap to one end and hinged the other. Made steel mounts for both ends. I had to shim the hinged end to clear the gas pipe that runs along the frame.
2010 26B Keystone Hideout
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax
Yamaha EF3000ISEB
My TT: 2006 Starcraft Antiqua 305qbs
My list
14"x14" fan in the bedroom
20" flat panel lcd t.v. in living
adjustable shelves in pantry
new kitchen sink faucet with sprayer
goosneck faucet in bathroom (for clearance)
replaced cheesy shower valve with single handle Delta tub and shower faucet
new showerhead that I can turn on/off
bumper mount bike rack
6" skid wheels welded to frame (replaces factory skid arms)
fold away handle at entry door
"Dirt Devil" central vac under dinette
removed tubular dinette table legs replaced with wall hinge & single foldup leg
new digital thermostat and rocker switch for hi/lo fan operation
electric tounge jack
plug keeper on frame for pigtail (keeps it out of the dirt and dry)
raidial st tires replacing bias tires
camping 21st century style.
Three kids oldest son 15
middle son 6
baby girl 2 years
me big daddy
and the wife
1. While tracking down my odor in the TT problem, I replaced the black tank vent cover with a new 360 syphon vent cover
2. After realizing the odor was coming from a bad seal that is not replaceable in the POS Aqua Magic V toilet, I replaced it with a much nicer Style II with china bowl.
3. My original bathroom vent cover disentigrated, instead of a cheap $10 replacement, I installed a new fantastic vent create a breeze. Wow does this move air!
4. My shower/tub has no ledges or shelves to put soap or shampoo bottles. I was setting them on the toilet lid. So I installed one of those stick up three chamber dispensors, and a stick up corner shelf. This was quick and easy.
5. Our tap water at home tasts horrible, and we have been places where the water tasts bad. 95% of the time we camp without hook ups, so no need for a external water filter. I had a spare faucet left over from a home RO installation, and a spot on my sink. So I bought a under the counter one stage water filter, some fittings and hose. I tapped into the cold line, through the filter to the faucet. So now, I have a faucet for filtered drinking water, without filtering wash/shower/toilet water.
6. My TT was a price leader budget model. Has a lot of nice features for the price, but is lacking in other areas. My overhead cabinets are huge. 13" deep, 16" tall, and over 4ft long. One is over the dinette, the other over the sink. They were completely open, and have no shelves! So we have just piled stuff in. This is anoying. Stuff jumbles around, bread gets squashed, hard to find things, and it is hard to use the full height because everything is stacked. To fix this I am installing shelves. I cut divider boards out of wood I had to go between the two doors to make two cabinets out of each one. Covered them with contact paper that matches. Screwed in pilaster shelving brackets to all sides, and am now getting ready to cut the shelves. Best compliment was when DW was sitting on the couch talking to me and said "I thought those dividers were there already" I said no, I just finished installing them, shelves are next. She said "they look like they have always been there"
More to come, if I ever get the time. I want to hard wire in a converter so it is seamless with the electrical. I also want to add in an accumulater, I have the bottle, just need a mounting location, some fittings, and time.
2007 Expedition EL 4x4 Tow pkg
1981 Palomino Pony, the PopUp (Sold)
2006 Pioneer 180CK (No more PUcampin!)
Me
DW and the 3 in 3 DD
2006, DS 2007, DD 2008
- LOVED the pexiglass on door idea, did it this past weekend while at the trailer and it's awesome! MUST HAVE MOD!!
- Hubby made 2 shelfs for undercabinet that's above dinette table, we wanted it airy so we used teacup hooks screwed into each corner of shelf and to bottom of cupboard then used gold chain to attach to each hook.....now the satellite receiver is closer to the tv (above the table).
- Hubby made a shelf above kitchen sink for, cell, change dish and small odds and ends....attached same way with teacup hooks/chain.
- Extra shelf below bathroom shelf for eyeglass/contact case, brushes (again same technique as above).
- Bathroom vanity mirror is too high for my 8 yr old so I bought a mirror from dollar store and velcrod it below.
- Add chip bag clips (with velcro) to the shower wall....now no more water to the floor when curtain is in the clip.
When we go back to the Roo in 2 weeks I will try and remember to take pictures.
Thanks for ALL the great mods!!
Lisa
-2007 Ram 2500 Laramie CTD
-2006 Arctic Fox 25S
Trailer Mods! Trailer! Truck!
Electrical (mostly done for boondocking):
Upgraded batteries to pair of Trojan T105 6V golf cart batteries
Upgraded converter to PD9160 3 stage converter with charge wizard
Upgraded wires going from converter to battery, to handle new converter's charging amps
Added 12V outlet (wired directly to batteries) in front bedroom for DW's CPAP machine to work off batteries
Plumbing:
Added Accumulator tank, so water pump wouldnt run as often
Changed piping to/from water pump to 'soft' pipes, to reduce vibration/noise
Installed drain plug in very bottom point of FW tank, to allow it to fully drain when winterizing
Built Sewer hose holder from 4" PVC pipe, mounted on top of back bumper
Quickie-flush tank rinser on black tank
Stability (when parked):
Built 'redneck wheel chocks' out of 4x4 post and threaded rod, very popular mod on here
Added mid-ship BAL C jacks between axles (detailed in THIS thread)
Built blocks from 4x6 post to use with stabilizers, mounted/stored on I-beam (detailed in THIS thread)
Built DIY stabilizer bars mounted onto scissor jacks to remove side-to-side movement, described, pictured HERE.
Miscellaneous:
Replaced bathroom doorknob with locking one
Built ladder and railing for rear bunk
Replaced heat vent in bathroom with 'diverter' type, that you can adjust opening on
Plexiglas inserts in screen door (VERY great mod, as already noted)
Attached plexiglas plates behind/around stove, to protect walls around it from backsplash, etc.
Upgraded all 4 wheels on tote tank to true pneumatic tires (detailed in THIS thread)
Built small rack on A frame that allows us to carry outdoor rug on it, behind batteries
Well, thats 'bout all I can think of, strictly with the trailer. Definitely some great ideas in this thread..
Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis
Our Rig
Our trailer has 2 sets of bunks and never came with a ladder and my youngest (8 yr old) had a hard time climbing up....well when I saw this pvc ladder last week I told DH this was a must. Our local pro hardware didn't have the t pipe in so we had to go to the Pro Hardware by the park. It is another great mod....she moved up the ladder with no problems and it takes up minimal space. We tierapped it to the bedrail that we have so that it is snug.
I cut-and-past the ones I want to keep into a Word document - expecially great if there is a pic - then when I have 3 or 4 pages worth of useful information I save them and print them. This way I have a hard copy to show DH want I want on my honey-dew list
and I have it to take to the trailer for reference.Much easier then going back through 80 pages worth here
Sean & Jessica
Wonderful Little Girl
1998 Chevy 1500 Van.
1978 19FT Coyote
2004 Mystichrome Cobra 620whp/642trq
Also:
Added two retractable clothes lines over tub
Added original equipment type light switch for rear view camera power
Removed and reinstalled bubble levels. They were off according to my 4 ft level
Added two chamber dispenser to shower
Removed and realigned shower hose to go up on shower wall side. It used to curl out into tub exit area
Instelled wood pads on jacks for larger footprint and to keep metal out of standing water on parking pad
Added hd signal booster/wingman
Replaced gutter spouts with longer ones
Replaced exterior storage door locks
Replaced factory queen short mattress with full size memory foam mattress.
Added 12v fan over bed
Lots more to go.
* This post was edited 09/23/09 06:47am by ctpres *
Pointing rooftop mobile RV type antennas is hit and miss. Using antennapoint.com gets the direction but it is not easy to transfer to the antenna rotation. What I did was put a 360 degree/round compass protractor between rotation disk and ceiling. Now all i do is use a small compass to find north-align protractor with north and then rotate antenna to antennapoint findings. I can hit stations dead on every time now in just seconds.
ctpres wrote:
Forgot the most important and useful mod.
Pointing rooftop mobile RV type antennas is hit and miss. Using antennapoint.com gets the direction but it is not easy to transfer to the antenna rotation. What I did was put a 360 degree/round compass protractor between rotation disk and ceiling. Now all i do is use a small compass to find north-align protractor with north and then rotate antenna to antennapoint findings. I can hit stations dead on every time now in just seconds.
Forgot the most important and useful mod.
Pointing rooftop mobile RV type antennas is hit and miss. Using antennapoint.com gets the direction but it is not easy to transfer to the antenna rotation. What I did was put a 360 degree/round compass protractor between rotation disk and ceiling. Now all i do is use a small compass to find north-align protractor with north and then rotate antenna to antennapoint findings. I can hit stations dead on every time now in just seconds.
Well aren't you a smarty pants.
ctpres wrote:
Forgot the most important and useful mod.
Pointing rooftop mobile RV type antennas is hit and miss. Using antennapoint.com gets the direction but it is not easy to transfer to the antenna rotation. What I did was put a 360 degree/round compass protractor between rotation disk and ceiling. Now all i do is use a small compass to find north-align protractor with north and then rotate antenna to antennapoint findings. I can hit stations dead on every time now in just seconds.
Forgot the most important and useful mod.
Pointing rooftop mobile RV type antennas is hit and miss. Using antennapoint.com gets the direction but it is not easy to transfer to the antenna rotation. What I did was put a 360 degree/round compass protractor between rotation disk and ceiling. Now all i do is use a small compass to find north-align protractor with north and then rotate antenna to antennapoint findings. I can hit stations dead on every time now in just seconds.
I really like this one. More good use of my Garmin etrex vista Gps with gps compas. I never heard of antennapoint.com before. Thanks
No pic = no mod.
Gets folks to post pics so all can really see what's been done and how it turned out.
cajoctaw wrote:
snip......No pic = no mod.....snip
snip......No pic = no mod.....snip
Mod pics are great....., but a brief mod description from a fellow forum member works for me just fine. After all, a forum is a discussion board, the pics are an option for those that elect (or have means of) to post them
Turk2500
When you did your 110v Outlet mod, what kind of wire did you use in the trailer? Someone else was saying that Romex should not be used as it isn't waterproof. What is your take on this?
Thanks
Just DH & DW
2inAlabama wrote:
Sonicsix,
When you did your 110v Outlet mod, what kind of wire did you use in the trailer? Someone else was saying that Romex should not be used as it isn't waterproof. What is your take on this?
Thanks
Sonicsix,
When you did your 110v Outlet mod, what kind of wire did you use in the trailer? Someone else was saying that Romex should not be used as it isn't waterproof. What is your take on this?
Thanks
I used household electrical wiring. I'm no electrician so I don't have a professional opinion. Romex has a plastic sheathing on it and the white and black wires inside that sheathing have a plastic coating on them so I think that would be waterproof enough for my installation. The only issue would be at the end where the plug is attached, if it is even an issue.
One outlet at end of kitchen counter for heater, etc.
One in bathroom for hair dryer and flat iron!
Comes in underneath kitchen sink, built wood surround for cord to roll up in. 45' 14awg wire.
Also added cool storage hanger in wardrobe for small items and towels.
TURK2500 wrote:
Mod pics are great....., but a brief mod description from a fellow forum member works for me just fine. After all, a forum is a discussion board, the pics are an option for those that elect (or have means of) to post them
Turk2500
cajoctaw wrote:
snip......No pic = no mod.....snip
snip......No pic = no mod.....snip
Mod pics are great....., but a brief mod description from a fellow forum member works for me just fine. After all, a forum is a discussion board, the pics are an option for those that elect (or have means of) to post them
Turk2500
Like on the fishing BB's I visit...
If there is no picture it didn't happen
Back-up idea. With jacks fully retracted simply cover front with a strip of duct tape.
* This post was edited 10/13/09 10:35am by ctpres *
Added inside handle to screen door slider.
Cut 4" DWV PVC in half lengthwise for cheap stinky hose support rack.
Used one piece from above to line bottom of rear bumper hose storage. Now hose slides in and out with ease and no worries about rusty inside damaging hose.
My new camper has a rather small shower, so I thought about installing a curved shower rod to give a little more elbow room. However, while I was surfing I found this. My shower was only 32" wide, however, and was too small for the shower rod as designed, but I was able to trim some length from the pieces to make it work. Much more room now!
Bob, Martha, and Matt.
Tucker, the Toy Poodle
'09 K-Z MXT20, '07 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Toprudder.com
JeffBett wrote:
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
My Mods
Most my mods are for storage optimization. After doing so many and getting into almost ever inch of my new TT I feel I really know it better and will be able to maintain it better now. One thing I learned is that they don't know what a vacuum is at the factory. I bet I sucked out more then 2 lbs of sawdust, cutout scraps, trim, and extra screws, etc. from the areas they figure we will never see.
In the last couple of weeks, I have done so many mods they would fill a page. I decided to just put them on my family website for all to see.
My Mods
Most my mods are for storage optimization. After doing so many and getting into almost ever inch of my new TT I feel I really know it better and will be able to maintain it better now. One thing I learned is that they don't know what a vacuum is at the factory. I bet I sucked out more then 2 lbs of sawdust, cutout scraps, trim, and extra screws, etc. from the areas they figure we will never see.
Jeff, I'm a bit late to this party but I just saw your mods and had to tell you how impressed I am at all the extra space you found in your TT. I saw several that I plan to use when I get my RV. I also think your "bouncing Baby Boy" is adorable.
We are pretty new to the TT world as we have tent camped for over 20 years after getting out of pop up.(never going to do that again)
We did our first mod to the 2002 Flagstaff 23'. Had to have more room in the shower so we picked up a curved hotel shower rod which we cut down to fit and a support bracket for the center. The way our shower is at the rear corner of the trailer it has the curve of the roof in it so we took the shower rod to the side wall where it is flat. Real happy with the way it turned out although we have not used it yet. Here are a few pics of the finished product. Each end of the rod was pre bent. I used the bent end of the smaller tube to make the bend to go to the side wall and just cut the pipe to length and drilled a new hole for the mount. The support bracket was found in the curtain rod isle at Lowes. I drilled a hole where the two tubes went together and installed a SS #10 srew and nut and capped it with a rubber cap to act as a stop for the curtain rings. I tried to bend the tube with a conduit bender and all it did was kink, this was before I used the end already bent buy the manufacturer.
* This post was edited 05/20/10 09:50pm by an administrator/moderator *
Dave and Marcia
02 Ford F350SD 4X4 SRW Longbed, 7.3PSD Auto
07 Flagstaff 829RGSS
Larry
* This post was edited 05/20/10 09:47pm by an administrator/moderator *
Dave
* This post was edited 05/20/10 09:48pm by an administrator/moderator *
.
* This post was edited 05/20/10 09:48pm by an administrator/moderator *
sdavis622 wrote:
Added extension cord wired to two different outlets. To power DW's hair dryer or ceramic heater when at parks. Seperate from trailers existing power source. 3" hole saw, measure twice, check for studs and electrical, drill pilot hole to check location, cut once!
One outlet at end of kitchen counter for heater, etc.
One in bathroom for hair dryer and flat iron!
Comes in underneath kitchen sink, built wood surround for cord to roll up in. 45' 14awg wire.
Added extension cord wired to two different outlets. To power DW's hair dryer or ceramic heater when at parks. Seperate from trailers existing power source. 3" hole saw, measure twice, check for studs and electrical, drill pilot hole to check location, cut once!
One outlet at end of kitchen counter for heater, etc.
One in bathroom for hair dryer and flat iron!
Comes in underneath kitchen sink, built wood surround for cord to roll up in. 45' 14awg wire.
I like the mod but why not just add a breaker? Is your panel maxed with breakers and no room to add? If so, you could have used a tandem breaker to give you the expansion room in the box. With another breaker you would not have to plug in another cord. Then again, even if not maxed with breakers a 30 AMP connection is still limited at times. The only thing you did not note is if you used a GFCI outlet on the first outlet wired in? Since it is wired to the bathroom one would be needed if you did not.
Also, I noticed you used 14 AWG wire (15 AMP) not 12 AWG (20 AMP) 12 wire would have given you the full 20 AMP capability from the pole you plug into. Those are usually rated 20 AMP at most campgrounds.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
What you have is a potential hazard your 15 amp wire could heat up before the 20 amp breaker trips. Beware! A GFI outlet would also be nice but using the wrong wire is more of a danger than omitting the GFI.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I would pull the proper 12 AWG wire rated 20 Amp and add a GFCI to the first outlet in the run. Easy fix to make it right. If that 15 AMP wire was ever overloaded on a 20 amp circuit the result could be very bad and result in a fire. The 20 Amp breaker on the pole does not prevent electrocution only a GFCI can do that. The breaker only prevents the overloading of a circuit. Good Luck.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
sonicsix wrote:
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
Lantley wrote:
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
sonicsix wrote:
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
Sound advice and an easy fix.
TreeSeeker wrote:
It would seem that the extension cord from the outlet post to the RV also needs to be at least 12 guage wire.
It would seem that the extension cord from the outlet post to the RV also needs to be at least 12 guage wire.
That is correct.
I picked up 2 of them at our dealer.
Something like this......
Hitch Ball Cover
One of the greatest improvements is the Fantastic vent we put in the bathroom:
I partitioned off an area under one of the beds for the cats' litter box:
So they could get in and out I took off the door and made a curtain:
Replaced most of our incandescent lights with LEDs - here is a reading light:
Here is an overhead replacement for an 1156:
Here is another replacement for an 1156 - this one is a bunch of LEDs on a circuit board - very bright:
I replaced the stereo with this one that has a USB connection and Aux input so we can watch movies on our laptop with surround sound:
Put up hooks to hang shirts and stuff that we are going to wear again:
Removed the microwave and put in a much smaller one to get extra room for other stuff:
Put up a magazine rack in the living area:
Moved the light over, installed a paper towel holder, a dish towel holder and a soap dispenser:
Put up an expandable towel bar in the shower and added shampoo and soap dispensers:
Put up a plastic tissue holder and got some plastic storage thingies for combs, toothpaste, etc.
Installed a crossbar for the screen door, and made a cat barrier to keep the cats from accidentally getting out into the cold cruel world:
Another magazine/book rack for the bedroom:
Hung up a little "Welcome Aboard" plaque since our trailer looks like an upside down boat:
* This post was edited 11/06/09 06:40pm by pasusan *
Trip Pics
"Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy." JB & GF
Susan & Ben ~
84 Bronco & 90 Award Classic 23 joined with a Hensley Cub
Bucky Badger wrote:
Someone nees a new camera
Someone nees a new camera
Oh yeah?
Just a new brain - I accidentally linked to the thumbnails til I saw the blur.
Fixed now...
DavidP wrote:
Sound advice and an easy fix.
Lantley wrote:
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
sonicsix wrote:
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
sdavis622 wrote:
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
Well, first I am no electrician! I saw this done on another forum, or by another member, can't recall. Basically I just figured it to be a hard mounted extension cord. Most electrical posts at campgrounds have breaker on the 20a plug so I figured that would cover it. Maybe I should add a GFCI... never thought about that! Thanks for the insight. Like I said I am no electrician, and this seemed simple enough.
I did this mod a while back, and I used 14 AWG wire. This outlet is used for a toaster oven, a griddle or a hair dryer. Always one at a time, so overloading the wire is not a worry. The cords on the appliances are much thinner than the 14 AWG wire I used to wire the outlet.
The issue has nothing to do with the cord on the appliance. The issue involves protection on the circuit. Sdavis22 installed 15 amp wire on a 20amp circuit. In the event of an overload the 20 amp breaker will not trip until 20 amps however the wire will begin to heat when the current exceeds its 15 amp rating. This heat has the potential to start a fire. 14 wire is designed to work on a 15 amp circuit not a 20 amp circuit. 12 wire is rated for a 20 amp circuit.
Keep in mind if your appliance has a short in its cord or anywhere else the circuit,the breaker is designed to trip. If the wire is not properly matched to the breaker the circuit may never trip. The wire will heat up just like it is part of the toaster. Only instead of toasting bread it may toast your RV. Using an underrated wire is just plain wrong and a potential hazard. All Romex wire is not created equal. They make different wire for different applications.
Sound advice and an easy fix.
Thanks to all of you for the advice... like I said not an electrician. So, based on everything you all have said... would it be easier to go through trailer and add an extra breaker and GFCI, or upgrade wire to 12awg and add GFCI.
Basically I considered this the same as running an extension cord from the post into the trailer which a lot of people have told me they've done. Instead, I ran 14awg extension cord through a hole wired directly to an outlet, then romex to another outlet in the bathroom. Bypassing the trailer all together. I thought 14awg to be sufficient, priced it by the foot with a plug to attach, but an employee at a big box store showed me a 14awg 50' extension cord that made it way cheaper, and the plugs were already attached... so I just assumed that would work. Good thing I have all of you to back me up!
Mic_bug wrote:
I'd agree...ceiling there is pretty wavey
.
welove2drive wrote:
We had a few things to repair when we got the trailer. One of which was track down some leaks. Gotta love it. I am happy with the way the shower rod turned out and hope to try it out yet this year.
Dave
LarryJM wrote:
I hope you have fixed what appears to be some fairly serious leakage in the roof area in those pics from the wavy ceiling panels. That doesn't bode well down the road.
Larry
welove2drive wrote:
Hello everyone,
We are pretty new to the TT world as we have tent camped for over 20 years after getting out of pop up.(never going to do that again)
We did our first mod to the 2002 Flagstaff 23'. Had to have more room in the shower so we picked up a curved hotel shower rod which we cut down to fit and a support bracket for the center. The way our shower is at the rear corner of the trailer it has the curve of the roof in it so we took the shower rod to the side wall where it is flat. Real happy with the way it turned out although we have not used it yet. Here are a few pics of the finished product. Each end of the rod was pre bent. I used the bent end of the smaller tube to make the bend to go to the side wall and just cut the pipe to length and drilled a new hole for the mount. The support bracket was found in the curtain rod isle at Lowes. I drilled a hole where the two tubes went together and installed a SS #10 srew and nut and capped it with a rubber cap to act as a stop for the curtain rings. I tried to bend the tube with a conduit bender and all it did was kink, this was before I used the end already bent buy the manufacturer.
Hello everyone,
We are pretty new to the TT world as we have tent camped for over 20 years after getting out of pop up.(never going to do that again)
We did our first mod to the 2002 Flagstaff 23'. Had to have more room in the shower so we picked up a curved hotel shower rod which we cut down to fit and a support bracket for the center. The way our shower is at the rear corner of the trailer it has the curve of the roof in it so we took the shower rod to the side wall where it is flat. Real happy with the way it turned out although we have not used it yet. Here are a few pics of the finished product. Each end of the rod was pre bent. I used the bent end of the smaller tube to make the bend to go to the side wall and just cut the pipe to length and drilled a new hole for the mount. The support bracket was found in the curtain rod isle at Lowes. I drilled a hole where the two tubes went together and installed a SS #10 srew and nut and capped it with a rubber cap to act as a stop for the curtain rings. I tried to bend the tube with a conduit bender and all it did was kink, this was before I used the end already bent buy the manufacturer.
I hope you have fixed what appears to be some fairly serious leakage in the roof area in those pics from the wavy ceiling panels. That doesn't bode well down the road.
Larry
We had a few things to repair when we got the trailer. One of which was track down some leaks. Gotta love it. I am happy with the way the shower rod turned out and hope to try it out yet this year.
Dave
I'd agree...ceiling there is pretty wavey
.
Well we got to try out our new shower rod this weekend. Man what an improvement. Had so much room in the shower I almost asked the DW to join me, (well maybe not that much more room), but well worth the time it took to do the mod. I would recemend this mod to anyone and everyone.
And thanks for the 2 positive replies and for noticing the obvious.
Happy camping everyone.
Dave
* This post was edited 05/20/10 09:46pm by an administrator/moderator *
Moderators, thanks for keeping this thread open! It is a great help to beginners like me!
New Rig- 2011 Ram 3500 DRW CC 4X4, 6.7L Cummins, auto, 3.73's
Old Rig- 2008 F-250 4X4, 5.4, 6 speed, 4.10's, AirLift 5000's
07 Timberlodge 30 SKY- too many mods to list....
07 Polaris 500 X2
99 Arctic Cat 500 4X4
Just trying to keep this thread going.
Happy New Year!
* This post was edited 01/03/10 06:06pm by UF GATOR 1 *
Bill & Millie
Iniki - The Cocker Spanial
"GO GATORS"
2011 Thor Windsport 30Q
LOL
Holy Smokes!!!! Do you ever have time to take that trailer camping???
2011 F250 Super Cab Lariat 6.2 373 FX4 Short Box 4" BDS, 35" Toyos, TorkLift, 16.5K Warn, Locked & Loaded
2007 SunLite Pop Up
~DJ~ wrote:
Holy Smokes!!!! Do you ever have time to take that trailer camping???
Holy Smokes!!!! Do you ever have time to take that trailer camping???
Plenty of time! The only "big" project was the solar setup.
.
Edit: Click Here
* This post was last edited 01/11/10 09:10am by campguy3040 *
2012 Winnebago Vista, Triple Slide Ford F53.
Blue Ox Tiger Trak track bar, RoadMaster Reflex Steering,&
"Free sway bar Fix"
Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar w/Patriot Brake System
Chevy HHR toad.
campguy3040 wrote:
I thought maybe some would find these of interest. For me, a link to photobucket album was easier to setup.
Edit: Click Here
I thought maybe some would find these of interest. For me, a link to photobucket album was easier to setup.
Edit: Click Here
Hey campguy. I like your power scissor jacks (plus other mods). I have been using a 19 mm socket and a drill to lower/retract my scissor jacks. Manually crank when more torque is needed.
2002 Ford Excursion XLT 6.8L V-10 2WD, 4.30 Limited Slip
Rear Hellwig Sway Bar
2009 Skyline Nomad 260
Prodigy Brake Controller
EAZ-Lift WD Hitch
stugpanzer wrote:
First of all.....the only stupid question is the one NOT asked.
You should be okay with doing that with the wire brush and then some enamel paint (spray or brush). I would first prime and then paint with the enamel. You might need two coats plus the primer.
Peach wrote:
Thanks....I apologize for the dumb questions. Seems they are the only ones I ask.
If I wire brush it really good, then dust it to get the flakes/dust off, could I just spray it with Rustoleum and then let it stay out in the weather? How many coats should I use?
This is a very dear to me set of outdoor furniture, probably not worth much in $, but worth a fortune in memories.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks....I apologize for the dumb questions. Seems they are the only ones I ask.
If I wire brush it really good, then dust it to get the flakes/dust off, could I just spray it with Rustoleum and then let it stay out in the weather? How many coats should I use?
This is a very dear to me set of outdoor furniture, probably not worth much in $, but worth a fortune in memories.
I appreciate the help.
stugpanzer wrote:
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
They might do that with a sand blaster, but let them know to not over do it because it could puncture the metal. After the work that you did, you can put a coat of Rustoleum paint to protect the (now) exposed metal from rust.
First of all.....the only stupid question is the one NOT asked.
You should be okay with doing that with the wire brush and then some enamel paint (spray or brush). I would first prime and then paint with the enamel. You might need two coats plus the primer.
Never Mind....
TV -- 2007 F-150 Lariat Screw
- Borla Cat-Back Exhaust
- Whipple SuperCharged 10 psi
- BCAuto Custom Trans Valve Body
- B&M Trans Pan
- Mike Troyer Tuned 445 RWHP 495 RWTQ
- 09 F150 towing mirrors
- 10 F150 E-FANS
TT -- 2010 Jayco JayFlight 28BHS
- Hensley Arrow
jiga20001 wrote:
Well I guess I should put THIS LINK here for those who have not seen it. Its pictures of mods I have done to my rv.
The link is the same as the one in my signature.
Enjoy.
Jeff
Well I guess I should put THIS LINK here for those who have not seen it. Its pictures of mods I have done to my rv.
The link is the same as the one in my signature.
Enjoy.
Jeff
Nice Setup Jeff. You know the old sayin... "If it's Free, It's for Me"
This is my adaptation of Les Adams water pump silencing mod. (Hope it is not patented) I glued together the foam and luan plywood and mounted it to the floor. I went with the small accumulator tank instead of the large one to save space and mounted it beside the pump. The small tank is a big help in reducing short cycling, but of course not as good as the 2 gallon tank. I also installed the flex lines on the pump and wrapped foam around pex pipe on the pressure side that contacts the floor or bulkheads. Much quieter! But not so quiet that I can`t hear it at all to detect a leak.
I insulated with foam and finished with luan the bedside of the front storage compartment. I then added some hangers for various items. I also insulated under the bed but have not finished that off in luan yet. The thinking is to keep the bed a little warmer as this compartment gets no heat.
Battery disconnect switch.
Other mods include pneumatic wheels on Barker tote, Barker 3000 jack, Wireless weather station and others planned.
2010 Jayco 28BHS
2004 Chevy 1500 Ext.Cab 5.3L, 3.73, Bilsteins, Timbren SES
Reese Dual Cam
Prodigy P3
Glad it worked out for you - looks great!!! Les
Well this lead to the next mod of putting a toddler corner guard on the bottom of the wardrobe corner so the mutts don't bang their heads.
Happy pets lead to happy DW which leads to a great camping weekend.
Playtime IV
2006 HR Scepter 42DSQ
chisoxguy13 wrote:
snip....For some crazy reason they put the outlets on the side of the nightstands in the bedroom so the mattress is right against them....snip
snip....For some crazy reason they put the outlets on the side of the nightstands in the bedroom so the mattress is right against them....snip
Even with the ground fault circuit the location still has some safety implications (lack of). Mine are located under the two top end cabinets, above the nightstand surface.
Turk2500
Moved it to here. Before
After
* This post was edited 06/03/10 10:07pm by an administrator/moderator *
Before
After
Also added a soap dispenser but no pic of that yet. Just need to get a shower curtain and some water to the system to check it all out.
Reba and David
2011 Open Range 345RLS with all the goodies!
2011 Ford Super Duty F-250 4x4 Lariat, 6.7L Turbo Charged Diesel, 400HP, 800 ft. lbs of torque
Prairieville, Louisiana
mrs jarhead wrote:
We added the Oxygenics Handheld Wand to our TT shower also! What a difference it makes. It's a little pricey, but well worth it..........
We added the Oxygenics Handheld Wand to our TT shower also! What a difference it makes. It's a little pricey, but well worth it..........
This discussion group is a one big commercial for Oxygenics, as such I could not resist and caved in - bought one - I have not tried it yet - but looking forward to. Maybe the moderators should ask for a commission
2004 GMC 1500 4x4 Extended cab short bed 5.3 3.73
2007.5 Jayco 328RLS
I had to go to 2 Lowes in order to find 3 locks that are all keyed
a like.
First project for this season.
Also went to Harbor Freight. They are having a big sale this weekend.
I got a 12v air compressor that was marked down from $75 to $55.
* This post was edited 03/12/10 05:59pm by Deewayne *
Dewayne & Linda
Amateur Radio - ??DLH, Wife - ??LLH
2006 Chevy 2500HD, LBZ.
1992 24 ft. Fleetwood Wilderness
The stars seem closer when sitting around a campfire.
Geo
Deewayne wrote:
I went to Lowes today and got 3 cam locks to install on all my basement hatch door. All of mine locks were the 751 key.
I had to go to 2 Lowes in order to find 3 locks that are all keyed
a like.
I went to Lowes today and got 3 cam locks to install on all my basement hatch door. All of mine locks were the 751 key.
I had to go to 2 Lowes in order to find 3 locks that are all keyed
a like.
I can get cam locks that don't have the 751 key?
2010 F150 XLT 4x4 SCab 5.4L
2007 Grand Surveyor
myowneq wrote:
I can get cam locks that don't have the 751 key?
Deewayne wrote:
I went to Lowes today and got 3 cam locks to install on all my basement hatch door. All of mine locks were the 751 key.
I had to go to 2 Lowes in order to find 3 locks that are all keyed
a like.
I went to Lowes today and got 3 cam locks to install on all my basement hatch door. All of mine locks were the 751 key.
I had to go to 2 Lowes in order to find 3 locks that are all keyed
a like.
I can get cam locks that don't have the 751 key?
I changed all of mine too... got 5 keyed alike from HD. They also sell combo ones and others at Camping World, saw them the other day.
mtkbuckeye wrote:
That looks very very nice.
mxsjw wrote:
Dryrot found in the rear, turned into a nice new Wilsonart HD laminate shower.
Not fun, but I sure like the way it turned out.
Dryrot found in the rear, turned into a nice new Wilsonart HD laminate shower.
Not fun, but I sure like the way it turned out.
That looks very very nice.
What did the surround cost you?
* This post was edited 06/03/10 10:05pm by an administrator/moderator *
2009 F150 XLT 5.4L SUPERCREW
1996 Sportsmen 23ft
Added a converter box to the Concertone system.
And a battery disconnect before install and after install.
campguy3040 wrote:
I thought maybe some would find these of interest. For me, a link to photobucket album was easier to setup.
Edit: Click Here
I thought maybe some would find these of interest. For me, a link to photobucket album was easier to setup.
Edit: Click Here
Hi Campguy3040
I was checking out your mods and saw that you have larger recliners at the rear window, like ours. Have you figured uot how to close the slide without moveing the one closest to the slide, into the space blocking the door?
I like all the other mods too and I'm working on some myself.
Thanks, Larry
Larry and Debbie Kruzan
We never turn a corner without wondering in amazement at God's creation!
Here we go;
First of all, I have MS, arthritis, a bad back and a sore toe, etc. - so I take a lot of meds, morning, noon and night - so I need a way to keep them where I am, when I need them. At night I take several just as I go to sleep so here is my effort to have them close at hand.
You also see the magazine rack I added anong with a holder for my Remote controls and a hand held weather radio.
Then I had to change out the reading lights above the bed - they were just way too small to read with. So I started with;
And changed the small light to this;
If you look at the following picture you will see the light on the left is the one I changed while the right light is the original one. The new one gives off a lot more light.
Now the finished picture with both changed; Also the misses got a magazine rack too and Klenex dispenser for her special needs! If mama's not happy, nobody's happy........
These were easy and fast and so handy. I also am mounting a flat panel TV in the bedroom and making a few other changes as we go. But first lets see if I got these sized right.
Happy Trails All!
Larry and Debbie
* This post was edited 06/03/10 10:06pm by an administrator/moderator *
2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3 Crew Z85 Suspension Z82 Tow Package
Plus all the Hitch, Sway and Brake Goodies
2005 GMC Sierra
2010 Dutchmen Aerolite 29RL-SL
1986 Coleman Newport Pop Up
1 Very Beautiful Wife
1 Boy 18
1 Girl 14
1 Travel Ready Spoiled Boston Terrier
Revo-Ray wrote:
Hey Larry, love the tissue box. Easy access pull down for allergy or cold season. How did you attach it, is it just velcro or something, Can't really see what is holding it.
Hey Larry, love the tissue box. Easy access pull down for allergy or cold season. How did you attach it, is it just velcro or something, Can't really see what is holding it.
A couple small screws hold it on the wall. I think we found it at our RV dealer during our last stop. I imagine Wally World or such like will also have them.
Best
* This post was edited 03/26/10 07:05pm by jherauf *
2001 Ford F-250 CC 7.3l Diesel
2006 Cedar Creek 31LRLS
Larry
* This post was edited 03/26/10 10:14pm by larry_kruzan *
larry_kruzan wrote:
A couple small screws hold it on the wall. I think we found it at our RV dealer during our last stop. I imagine Wally World or such like will also have them.
Best
Revo-Ray wrote:
Hey Larry, love the tissue box. Easy access pull down for allergy or cold season. How did you attach it, is it just velcro or something, Can't really see what is holding it.
Hey Larry, love the tissue box. Easy access pull down for allergy or cold season. How did you attach it, is it just velcro or something, Can't really see what is holding it.
A couple small screws hold it on the wall. I think we found it at our RV dealer during our last stop. I imagine Wally World or such like will also have them.
Best
Saw these at Camping World this weekend. Made by Camco so you should be able to find them at about any camping supply place.
This is the tongue jack cover I made from some of the material and draw string that was used for one of the collapsing lawn chairs that broke. The cover is water proof and can stay on the tongue jack head when traveling. For long term storage I throw a plastic shopping bag over it to make the cover last a little longer in the elements. I can even operate the switch for the jack with the cover on, but of course loose the use of the light when covered.
I then took some nylon strapping and sewed a loop on each end and the sewed to to the top of the cover to store my safety chains, breakaway cable and trailer plug.
Larry
LarryJM wrote:
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly.
>>>>>>>>>
Larry
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly.
>>>>>>>>>
Larry
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the update. I had seen the "bucket with hooks" posted and was thinking about doing that one. This is a very nice mod that my wife can help with. She is a quilter/sewer/etc. - she says that I can make anything with plastic/steel/or wood but there is nothing but blood when I touch a needle and thread.
See ya around the campfire!
Larry
LarryJM wrote:
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly. I was starting to crack where I installed the hooks. Of course I also have to remove the bucket when towing and it was just another item to carry and reinstall, etc.
This is the tongue jack cover I made from some of the material and draw string that was used for one of the collapsing lawn chairs that broke. The cover is water proof and can stay on the tongue jack head when traveling. For long term storage I throw a plastic shopping bag over it to make the cover last a little longer in the elements. I can even operate the switch for the jack with the cover on, but of course loose the use of the light when covered.
I then took some nylon strapping and sewed a loop on each end and the sewed to to the top of the cover to store my safety chains, breakaway cable and trailer plug.
Larry
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly. I was starting to crack where I installed the hooks. Of course I also have to remove the bucket when towing and it was just another item to carry and reinstall, etc.
This is the tongue jack cover I made from some of the material and draw string that was used for one of the collapsing lawn chairs that broke. The cover is water proof and can stay on the tongue jack head when traveling. For long term storage I throw a plastic shopping bag over it to make the cover last a little longer in the elements. I can even operate the switch for the jack with the cover on, but of course loose the use of the light when covered.
I then took some nylon strapping and sewed a loop on each end and the sewed to to the top of the cover to store my safety chains, breakaway cable and trailer plug.
Larry
I saw that and remembered a heavy-duty canvas tote bag we'd thrown away yesterday - and it's the perfect size for this. We'll fish it out of the trash - turn it upside down over the tongue jack, and use a small bungie cord to fasten the handles together so it stays down. Thanks for the great idea!
LarryJM wrote:
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly. I was starting to crack where I installed the hooks. Of course I also have to remove the bucket when towing and it was just another item to carry and reinstall, etc.
This is the tongue jack cover I made from some of the material and draw string that was used for one of the collapsing lawn chairs that broke. The cover is water proof and can stay on the tongue jack head when traveling. For long term storage I throw a plastic shopping bag over it to make the cover last a little longer in the elements. I can even operate the switch for the jack with the cover on, but of course loose the use of the light when covered.
I then took some nylon strapping and sewed a loop on each end and the sewed to to the top of the cover to store my safety chains, breakaway cable and trailer plug.
Larry
I have been using a plastic bucket with some hooks in it so I could store my safety chains, breakaway cable and especially the plug to keep them out of the weather and stored more neatly. I was starting to crack where I installed the hooks. Of course I also have to remove the bucket when towing and it was just another item to carry and reinstall, etc.
This is the tongue jack cover I made from some of the material and draw string that was used for one of the collapsing lawn chairs that broke. The cover is water proof and can stay on the tongue jack head when traveling. For long term storage I throw a plastic shopping bag over it to make the cover last a little longer in the elements. I can even operate the switch for the jack with the cover on, but of course loose the use of the light when covered.
I then took some nylon strapping and sewed a loop on each end and the sewed to to the top of the cover to store my safety chains, breakaway cable and trailer plug.
Larry
I saw that and remembered a heavy-duty canvas tote bag we'd thrown away yesterday - and it's the perfect size for this. We'll fish it out of the trash - turn it upside down over the tongue jack, and use a small bungie cord to fasten the handles together so it stays down. Thanks for the great idea!
larry_kruzan wrote:
Very nice. Did you bend the tin yourself?
Larry
Very nice. Did you bend the tin yourself?
Larry
Yes, used a brake for the x pattern.
Joey
Cyndi H wrote:
I saw that and remembered a heavy-duty canvas tote bag we'd thrown away yesterday - and it's the perfect size for this. We'll fish it out of the trash - turn it upside down over the tongue jack, and use a small bungie cord to fasten the handles together so it stays down. Thanks for the great idea!
I saw that and remembered a heavy-duty canvas tote bag we'd thrown away yesterday - and it's the perfect size for this. We'll fish it out of the trash - turn it upside down over the tongue jack, and use a small bungie cord to fasten the handles together so it stays down. Thanks for the great idea!
I would recommend using something that is waterproof for the material if you stow your trailer plug pointing up like in my pictures since you don't want moisture to drip into it and corrode the contacts. This along with just having a place to hand the safety chains was why I used the bucket and now this. Some waterproof nylon etc. from a fabric store might be a good alternative for material and then you can make the cover the right size. The draw string I reused was the type round thingee that has the push button on it to release the cords.
Larry
My $11.00 sink covers
Took a trip to Lowes after calling CW and being quoted over $50.00 for a set of their covers.
Lowes had "stain grade" pine panels and they were already the perfect width. My sink is 16" x 30". The panel was 36" so I had them cut 6" off the end and cut the remaining piece in half at 15". I made a template for the cutout of the faucet and jigsawed it out. Then sanded the corners. It fits perfect and does the trick. I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
mowermech wrote:
Why is it there is never enough time and money to do it RIGHT, but there is always enough time and money to do it OVER?
Why is it there is never enough time and money to do it RIGHT, but there is always enough time and money to do it OVER?
Sometimes you gotta wiggle it and cuss to yourself.
We won't use them until after the feast is prepared that's when they come in handy.
whlnwgn wrote:
We needed the extra counter space. That's generally what they are used for when the come in new trailers. Ours didn't come with any.
We won't use them until after the feast is prepared that's when they come in handy.
We needed the extra counter space. That's generally what they are used for when the come in new trailers. Ours didn't come with any.
We won't use them until after the feast is prepared that's when they come in handy.
That makes sense (the "after the feast" part.) We don't have guests to need a buffet - I just serve from the stove - but if we had several different dishes to put out and have people serve themselves from then I can see where the counter space would be needed. Thanks for the answer.
whlnwgn wrote:
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
Took a trip to Lowes after calling CW and being quoted over $50.00 for a set of their covers.
Lowes had "stain grade" pine panels and they were already the perfect width. My sink is 16" x 30". The panel was 36" so I had them cut 6" off the end and cut the remaining piece in half at 15". I made a template for the cutout of the faucet and jigsawed it out. Then sanded the corners. It fits perfect and does the trick. I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
Took a trip to Lowes after calling CW and being quoted over $50.00 for a set of their covers.
Lowes had "stain grade" pine panels and they were already the perfect width. My sink is 16" x 30". The panel was 36" so I had them cut 6" off the end and cut the remaining piece in half at 15". I made a template for the cutout of the faucet and jigsawed it out. Then sanded the corners. It fits perfect and does the trick. I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Those covers are great. After you stain them are you going to coat them with something water proof to keep the finish from getting food or grease stained? Maybe the stain will be enough?
Cyndi H wrote:
What's the purpose of the sink covers? I'm not being critical here - just curious. Are they for decoration? I cook - and therefore use the sink as I prepare - so I'd be putting sink covers in storage. Yours DO look nice.
What's the purpose of the sink covers? I'm not being critical here - just curious. Are they for decoration? I cook - and therefore use the sink as I prepare - so I'd be putting sink covers in storage. Yours DO look nice.
DW also wanted sink access when preparing meals and our current trailer came with a real nice sink cover, but it was one piece and covered both sinks. It was also bulky and fairly heavy and she was always taking it off when fixing meals.
Here is a pic of our sink..
What I did was made a cover out of some counter top laminate from the sink cutout, routed it out to make it thinner and mounted some of the plastic corner protector to hold it in the larger sink.
This is a pic of the back of the new sink cover ...
She now has a little extra food prep space and sink access and along with real drawers with ball bearing slides in the kitchen this is one of the two best mods from her standpoint I have done. Our factory cover now is in the basement waiting for another project where I can use that material.
Larry
campin4kids wrote:
Those covers are great. After you stain them are you going to coat them with something water proof to keep the finish from getting food or grease stained? Maybe the stain will be enough?
whlnwgn wrote:
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
Took a trip to Lowes after calling CW and being quoted over $50.00 for a set of their covers.
Lowes had "stain grade" pine panels and they were already the perfect width. My sink is 16" x 30". The panel was 36" so I had them cut 6" off the end and cut the remaining piece in half at 15". I made a template for the cutout of the faucet and jigsawed it out. Then sanded the corners. It fits perfect and does the trick. I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
Took a trip to Lowes after calling CW and being quoted over $50.00 for a set of their covers.
Lowes had "stain grade" pine panels and they were already the perfect width. My sink is 16" x 30". The panel was 36" so I had them cut 6" off the end and cut the remaining piece in half at 15". I made a template for the cutout of the faucet and jigsawed it out. Then sanded the corners. It fits perfect and does the trick. I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Those covers are great. After you stain them are you going to coat them with something water proof to keep the finish from getting food or grease stained? Maybe the stain will be enough?
I'm thinking of using Thompsons water seal stain. That way I get the color and the protection. I will post pics of the covers after I stain them.
Cyndi H wrote:
Larry - I really, really like the idea of a sink cover for just one of the 2 sinks - now that would be more practical - since I'd still have access to one of the sinks during meal preparation. I have a crafty friend who just might make me one!
Larry - I really, really like the idea of a sink cover for just one of the 2 sinks - now that would be more practical - since I'd still have access to one of the sinks during meal preparation. I have a crafty friend who just might make me one!
LOL!
Lady I don't even know where to start with you.
whlnwgn wrote:
LOL!
Lady I don't even know where to start with you.
Cyndi H wrote:
Larry - I really, really like the idea of a sink cover for just one of the 2 sinks - now that would be more practical - since I'd still have access to one of the sinks during meal preparation. I have a crafty friend who just might make me one!
Larry - I really, really like the idea of a sink cover for just one of the 2 sinks - now that would be more practical - since I'd still have access to one of the sinks during meal preparation. I have a crafty friend who just might make me one!
LOL!
Lady I don't even know where to start with you.
Start by having her measure her sink!
whlnwgn wrote:
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Not really a unique mod, but I thought I'd share.
My $11.00 sink covers
I still have to stain them to match the cabinets. Not too shabby for 15mins work.
And best of all DW came out and said "I love em!"
Why stain them? I would just oil them with bamboo oil or any food safe cutting board oil. By oiling them you can cut on them as well.
Works pretty smooth and really helps keep the batteries topped off on those days the sun doesnt want to come out or during the night time
change the power cord
install insect screens
install 2nd battery
Check convertor, upgrade possibly
Install spring helper
Swap out cam locks from lowes
Install small 12v fans in bedroom and above table
Paper towel holder
Bathroom towel rack
Key hooks near door
Clothing hooks
Flashlights
TV & Satellite
Stabilizer jacks in front of axle
Spare tire carrier
propane tank covers
water hose extension by sewer discharge
Bathroom sprayer
replace stereo?
hangers in front storage for trailer tools
outdoor cook center with propane line
electronic thermostat
water accumulator tank with rubber hoses on pump and padding underneath for silencing
sink and stove back splash
screen door plexi
cabinet baskets
TV bracket
turbo-maxx fan
jack cover for chains (jhook) and trailer hookup (broom clip)
battery cut off switch
seperate under bed and front storage. Add automatic light.
insulate under bed.
mud flaps
door curtain
trashcan bin?
replace faucets
install oxygenics shower head with shutoff
stabilize dinner table
Rear view camera
door actuator for screen door (Cool Mods page 26)
truck toolbox on tongue
Vent covers on roof
stove top counter extender
lights over sewer drain and stabilizers
trailer back up lights
bubble levels
spring bar holders
awning carpet and tube holder
hot water recirculation
trailer step light
shoe rack
How long ya'll reckon it'll take to do all these?
myowneq wrote:
Ok, so 93 pages of mods. Here's my "to do" list.
change the power cord
install insect screens
install 2nd battery
Check convertor, upgrade possibly
Install spring helper
Swap out cam locks from lowes
Install small 12v fans in bedroom and above table
Paper towel holder
Bathroom towel rack
Key hooks near door
Clothing hooks
Flashlights
Ok, so 93 pages of mods. Here's my "to do" list.
change the power cord
install insect screens
install 2nd battery
Check convertor, upgrade possibly
Install spring helper
Swap out cam locks from lowes
Install small 12v fans in bedroom and above table
Paper towel holder
Bathroom towel rack
Key hooks near door
Clothing hooks
Flashlights