Yes, these brakes can be adjusted, from the back side there is a small oval rubber plug, you can adjust using a brake adjustment tool. I prefer to remove drum and inspect/adjust.
They do not automatically adjust like a car so you must do this once in a while.
I do this yearly since PA has a annual inspection that is mandatory I check all 4 before I take it for inspection so no supprises.
There is an excellent article written by one of our members that is stuck at the top of the Towing forum here. It will tell you exactly how to adjust your brakes and do your wheel bearings. It is complete with pictures.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250 Super Duty, 7.3L PSD
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I just inspected my brakes, and am not certain what the shoe thickness should be. I measured with a caliper and the pad is 3/16 thick. I have nothing to compare that to, but seemed OK. All four wheels seem the same. No gouges, no leaking, so everything else looks good.
So, does anyone know what the shoe thickness is of a 10" diameter brake drum shoe is? I didn't know to check axle capacity, but these are ona 19 foot Aerolite Cub. Weight seems to me to be around 5,000# for trailer...
Try a NAPA store, they had 12" ones for my TT.I shot a picture of them and a few measurements went to my friendly NAPA and came home with the corect ones.
jstain wrote: I just inspected my brakes, and am not certain what the shoe thickness should be. I measured with a caliper and the pad is 3/16 thick. I have nothing to compare that to, but seemed OK. All four wheels seem the same. No gouges, no leaking, so everything else looks good.
So, does anyone know what the shoe thickness is of a 10" diameter brake drum shoe is? I didn't know to check axle capacity, but these are ona 19 foot Aerolite Cub. Weight seems to me to be around 5,000# for trailer...
Riveted linings should be 2/32" above the rivets. Bonded linings are good to 1/32" thickness. Keep them adjusted, I cannot figure why the axle manufacturers don't offer self adjusting brakes. the technology is only about 50 years old..
Ops
2001 Ram QC, Cummins, auto, 4:10s and 4x4, 5" straight pipe
1995 Jayco Eagle 220
DW
DS
Old man..
You can usually buy the entire brake plate, assembled and ready to bolt on and connect the wires for less money than the individual parts (shoes, magnets, springs, plate).
I think Al-Ko sometimes uses Dexter parts on their axles.
If you take the numbers of the tag on the axle, you can ID the plant that made your axle, call the plant and get the exact original parts, dimensions and capacities for YOUR axle. I know Dexter does that and I've heard Al-Ko also does it. Might be a legal requirement of some sort for recall, or just good business practice.
PS: For those with multiple brake sets on multiple axles who just don't like all that messing about with the adjustment tool in the hole, someone on another group found this tool. Just put one set of gauges in the drum to get the shoe distance to set before putting the drum back on.
jstain wrote: I just inspected my brakes, and am not certain what the shoe thickness should be. I measured with a caliper and the pad is 3/16 thick. I have nothing to compare that to, but seemed OK. All four wheels seem the same. No gouges, no leaking, so everything else looks good.
So, does anyone know what the shoe thickness is of a 10" diameter brake drum shoe is? I didn't know to check axle capacity, but these are ona 19 foot Aerolite Cub. Weight seems to me to be around 5,000# for trailer...
Riveted linings should be 2/32" above the rivets. Bonded linings are good to 1/32" thickness. Keep them adjusted, I cannot figure why the axle manufacturers don't offer self adjusting brakes. the technology is only about 50 years old..
Ops
looks like I should be ok. I'm at 3/16 didn't notice rivets so suspct bonded.
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