Did you have to change you roto-choks? due to the space between the tires changing
Don & Georgia
AKA: Trailer Trash 2
Real trucks don't have spark plugs.
2009, Dodge, 3500, Q Cab, Cum/Diesel, D.R.W.
Pulling a Super Fine Montana 2980RL
I took some measurements and a picture or 2 and sent them to Scott at trailertiresandwheels.com, who thought I would be OK. I went to the local Trucks and Moore shop, they thought I wouldn't have any problems, and also went to a trailer specialty who didn't see any issues.
The only possible clearance issue is being addressed in this thread and concerns the distance from the back sidewall of the tire and the rectangular slide bar. I checked the wrong side for clearance measurements before I ordered, but I think I might be ok.
I have only driven about 7 or 8 miles with the new tires, so am not sure if I can report any difference in towing. I did get on the interstate for 2 or 3 miles, it seemed to handle fine.
As for the roto-chocks, I don't have them yet, I'm still using a couple of bricks.
I had about 3.2 inches above the wheel before and now have 1.5 on the slide side and 2 inches on the non slide side. I now have about 3" between the tires, where before I maybe 5. The diameter difference is 2.18" so the tire increased 1.09 vertical, which also factors in the wheel change.
And yes, my wallet is a lot lighter, as well as any concerns about having a blow out. I installed new metal valve stems as well, I had to find skinny ones that bolt in from the inside of the wheel, and had to add .75" metal extenders also.
2007 Keystone Laredo 29RL, 2000 Ford F250 SD 7.3 PSD, Firestone bags, Pressure Pro / Metal Stems. 16" Michelin XPS Ribs. MorRyde Pin Box. Dirt Devil CV950 Central Vacuum, 2000W AllPower by Kipor (Honda Clone), 4000/3500W Champion C46540, Honeywell 2000i
For the people who have heavier rigs, and need "G" rated tires and wheels, I went with Goodyear G614's and Alcoa forged aluminum wheels which are made for 110PSI.
Cost some money, but I have had them for two years and made two trips across the country. They make me feel safe when going through the "rockies" with the sharp drop offs right next to the asphalt.
$800 for the tires, and $900 for the wheels, but if you "are going to play, you gotta pay".
KS - Pics just fine - probably as indicated: "your preference setting/s".
[Browser I'm using is Firefox - haven't used IE in a while]
TT2 - If you already have Rotos - call Pearl - they will make changes for you,
I suspect for just S/H charges.
buckbs - just to be informed (you already have 'em) check the lengthy "G614 Warning" thread in Escapees HDT forum back about 3 or 4 pages now.
Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.
looks great! we just did the very same thing to our laredo and we do notice a much better ride. i am very happy with the decision to swap the 15" cheap tires for the michelin ribs - what a difference!
we do have rotochoks and called the company - they sent different sized plates (smaller) which we swapped out, saved us $$$$ by not having to buy all new rotochoks and it was easy to swap the sizes - great company and i would recommend rotochoks to all.
Bertpapa
Bertpapa's Wife
2 Daughters (21 and 23)
1999 Ford F250
Pullrite 16K Super 5th with Super Rails
Prodigy Brake Controller
2006 Keystone Laredo 29RK
bertpapa wrote: looks great! we just did the very same thing to our laredo ...
What size Ribs did you put on? It looks like the RK has the same slide as the RL, hows the clearance on the back side of the tire, between it and the rectangular slide mechanism? How much do you have?
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