My family just spent 10 days camping in our WW CR3905. It was awesome and the RV Parks we went to were great...Malibu RV Park and Newport Dunes Resort. Highly recommend them both. However, the bedroom mattress in our TH just about killed us. I thought the egg crate topper and the thick mattress pad I had put on were great...but to my dismay, we need something better. First off -- will a regular length queen fit with the cabinets at the foot of the bed???? And, if not, does anyone have any suggestions on upgrading our factory mattress? Maybe a better topper or a new mattress all together. HELP -- I can't sleep another night in there, and desert season is approaching. Thank you.
Also, Has anyone installed a 2nd A/C unit up in the bedroom? My husband is handy....what do you suggest, and can he do it himself?
And, what satellite TV setups do you all have? I don't want to spend $1000 on a dome, so what do you all suggest???
Thank you again! I look forward to hearing from you --- most importantly on the mattress question!!!
Edit: Moved to Modifications & Accessories
* This post was
edited 08/13/07 09:12am by an administrator/moderator *
2005 Chevy 2500 Diesel w/2007 WW CR3905 -- lovin' life in So. Cal.
Had the same problem in my TH. Seems there was no foundation, just the box around the perimeter under the pressboard sheet and no slats across the perimeter frame for support. I added some 2x4's on edge for slats under the pressboard and .... voila! Not great but vastly improved.
I have a WW CR 3705. you're right, the stock matress is not very good to say the least. I went to a foam shop and had a "matress" made. Used 4" of firm foam and 3" of memory foam. Cost about 250 bucks to do this. It's really very comfortable. I had the second AC installed in the unit at the factory, so have no opinion on install but if the unit isn't pre-wired for the front unit it wil take some work to run the wiring. I live in fl and I insisited on the second unit, one to keep up on the hot days and as a backup in case the main shut down. As for the satalite hookup, I use the Winegard portable system. You have to make some mods so it will work, the switch in the unti wil not operate satalite, many posts on this site about the modification.
You unit should already be wired for the second A/C. Just a matter of removing the vent and bolting in the new one. You should find the wires under the electrical plate to the side. Just remove the plate, wire it up, and replace the plate.
Satellite - we use Dish Network. Followed the directions on how to change the wiring to be able to use two receivers. We found that information here.
Mattress - I don't mind it, but my husband hates it. We put a feather bed on top of an egg crate topper. I think it is fine, but my husband still prefers his water bed.
4 kids (One is my husband, but I sometimes wonder)
8 yr boy,9 yr girl,10 yr girl
01 International 4700
99 Dodge 2500 Quad Long Bed,Cummins,Rhino Liner
98 Lance Squire 4000
06 WW SLC 3505
48 Ford 8N was a rustbucket
52 Ford 8N w/ Sherman 54B HydroHoe
Matress - Overstock.com 4" memory foam topper for us. It works great.
A/C - If pre-wired, I think the hardest part is getting the 2nd unit on the roof.
Sat. - We have DISH at home and use a spare receiver and dish on a tripod. A dome would be real nice, but I can justify the cost of a dome for our limited use.
2008 WW LE3305
2004 Ford F-350, 4X4, CC, SRW, 5-inch Pro Comp lift with 35 inch Pro Comp Extreme A/T's, 4-inch MBRP turbo back exhaust w/cat delete, SCT XCal-2, Autometer gauges, intake elbow, and some other mods
I think all WW front beds are a standard queen but you can always get out the tape measure. I added 5" of memory foam, also from Overstock.com. I'm considering buying a Sleep Number bed since we have the standard queen size, you can get the "cheap" 2 chamber model and add some memory foam or pony up the $400 per inch for theirs.
Been thinking the same thing for the front A/C, I'm already wired as well. Anyone know if the ducting is available up there or do you just rely on it blowing into the bedroom (brrr).
Most of the satellite dishes I have seen as using a tripod and some sand bags, water jugs or cinder blocks to keep it from moving. This setup also allows for overhanging trees, it's tough to move a mounted dish.
I also recommend Malibu RV, they were great! Just remember that you need to really check those chocks, my heart stopped for a long time when my trailer slid 6" after unhooking. All I could see was my brand new trailer falling the 50+ feet onto the highway! I was new but learned fast. I use 2x8's for the support on the tongue jack and align them with the trailer, that way if it slides a little it won't fall off.
Don't take life too seriously, it's not permanent.
06 Weekend Warrior FSC3200 pulled by 05 Ford F250 PSD 4x4
07 Yamaha YZF450 White/Silver, 05 Yamaha YFZ450 White/Red
94 Husqvarna WXC610, 2008 Polaris RZR 800
I put mine in myself, and wouldn't do it again. First of all, it took about an hour to scrape off all the sealant and remove the vent. 57mins of that was scraping - the vent's not that hard to take out.
Second, getting the new AC unit up there is not that easy. I went to a local United Rentals store, and rented a hand-crank material lift to crank the unit up there, and then climbed the ladder and just pulled it off. If you're going to try to do it yourself, rent one. It was approx $80, and worth every penny.
My WW was pre-wired for AC. Look for an electrical box (mine had a sticker on it that said it was a pre-wired circuit for an additional AC unit).
Make sure to get the right accessories. After I got home and started installing, I determined that I needed a bolt kit and an extended duct kit to connect the bottom of the unit to the part on top of the RV. If the roof of your RV is over a certain size thick, you'll need the same. I also needed a standard (20 amp in my case) circuit breaker to put into the breaker box. The wire for the circuit was already there, but it wasn't connected to a breaker.
Having said that, I couldn't find either the bolt kit or the extended duct kit anywhere in stock, and didn't have time to wait for a special order. The stock bolts ended up working, and I went to the local hardware store to buy a roll of aluminum flashing. If you do this, be sure to use metal tape (also called aluminum tape), not duct tape. Aluminum tape is much more resilient.
I ended up getting it done, and it works fine, but it was such a PITA that I definitely wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you make sure to get everything ahead of time and rent the material lift.
Thank you all so much for all your advice. Looks like I'll be getting a mattress topper at Walmart or Costco, getting the A/C installed professionally, and using a tri-pod dish and some kind of box. You've all been very helpful. Now, I just wonder what length my queen bed is in the trailer? Do you really think it's standard size @ 80" and not the short one @ 75"???? Hmmmm. If that's the case, then the topper will be really easy to find. Desert -- here we come.
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Break out the tape measure and go shopping is what I say!!
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