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Open Roads Forum  >  Folding Trailers

 > Lights, furnace, not working from 120v sources

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Bullypup

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/14/07 02:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey everyone!

I have been visiting this forum for a couple months now, but just registered. My wife and I purchased a new to us 2000 Viking Saga 2107st about 3 weeks ago. It was only used twice by the original owner (wife didn't like camping) and was stored in his garage and everything looks brand new.

We took it to try everything out 2 days after we bought it close to our home at the lake. Everything worked fine off 30 amp service at the state park CG. Everything also worked fine plugged into our house power.

We now just returned yesterday from a 3 day trip to Fun Valley in Southfork Co. where the 12v lights and furnace (I think cause the fan works off 12v)would only work off battery power. The 120v outlets worked fine to power our radio, phone chargers and such off the regular 30 amp service Fun Valley provided.

I know just about nothing about electrical stuff, but I checked all the fuses with a Pen light tester (not sure what the actual name is) and could not get any light whatsoever(it worked on the TV fuses when tested). I also pulled up the bench cover and found the box where the 30amp cord was connected, and it is the unit that had the fuses attached. I tested any cords I could on what seemed to be the 12v side of the box and did not get any light either. I had to hook up two new 6 volt Golf car batteries that I had bought for future boondocking trips, and used them to power the light and the furnace.


Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give as much info as possible. I do not know what could have caused the lights to stop working off 30amp service. Any help is appreciated.


2000 Viking Saga 2107ST
2010 Ford F-150 4x4 SCrew


SuperDave178

Tacoma, WA

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Posted: 08/14/07 02:10pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The device you used is called a test light.



SD

* This post was edited 08/14/07 03:50pm by SuperDave178 *


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Turbo Diesel Dude

Ocala,Fl

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Posted: 08/14/07 04:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Usually lights and furnace only work off 12V power JMHO.


charles weidman

mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Posted: 08/14/07 04:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well for a short course your converter is all things in one. The shore power cord connects usually to two 120 volt circuit breakers. A 20 amp dedicated normally for use with an air conditioner, and a 15 amp circuit breaker which supplies everything else. 120 volt outlets daisy chain off of it usually with a GFCI as the first outlet. The next "stage" is the transformer/rectifier that actual converts the 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC. From there it goes to the 12 volt fuse block where the battery connects as well as all the 12 volt circuitry.
What normally cause your systems is the main DC fuse between the transformer section and fuse block (often mounted on or near it) OR an internal 7.5 amp buss fuse deep inside the converter. It is designed to prevent reverse polarity to protect the converter circuit board, but has a habit of just blowing for no apparent reason.
Another thing that can happen is the transformer section is wired after the GFCI and it would have to reset. But since your outlets work on shore power that's not the problem in this case.


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barrie_camper

Barrie Ontario Canada

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Posted: 08/15/07 07:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't know if this will help but I just fixed my electrical problem. Everything was working fine off shore power but couldn't get battery power. I found a 20amp fuse on my frame near the battery that was blown. I didn't even know it was there. It was in a weatherproof yellow cover. Check that fuse, I think I blew it at the start of the year when I put positive on negative and vice versa.

fairfaxjim

Fairfax, CA

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Posted: 08/15/07 11:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

barrie_camper wrote:

Check that fuse, I think I blew it at the start of the year when I put positive on negative and vice versa.


That seldom goes well. That can also blow the "reverse polarity" fuse inside the converter.


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Bullypup

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/15/07 04:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys for the information. I looked around some and did not find any fuses that need replaced. I will have to do a more thorough job underneath and see if I find something I missed. I looked around the converter itself and the only fuse (besides the four fuses in plain site) that was around the converter was a 1amp fuse. I don't know what it is for but it looked in good condition.

Everything still works, just that I have to run the lights, furnace, and leak detector off the batteries and the 120v outlets off shorepower for a while if I have to.

I did some more searching and found out that the converter is made by Todd Engineering and they are now out of business. It seems other people on the board have had some problems with theirs also. I do not know how to find a new, latest technology converter that could replace this unit and still fit in the same footprint. It seems to me that the 12volt conveter has bit the dust (just a guess on my part). If anyone has any ideas let me know. I am thinking about taking it in to the dealer where the original owner purchased it from and having them fix it. I just want as much knowledge as I can from everyone here so I get the best parts and price deal I can. Thanks!

mike4947

N. Syracuse, NY

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Posted: 08/15/07 07:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The folks at Best Converter would be my choice of vender. They do have several retrofit converters, plus they are very helpful.

rbq

West Valley City, Utah

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Posted: 08/16/07 04:49pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll second the suggestion of Best Converters. We got into So. Dakota on vacation and found when we set up that I couldn't get any power from the battery. We have an old 85 Coleman trailer and the converter had a three way switch that went bad and had no way to remove it or replace it. I ended up taking the 12 volt power line & tying it into the wires completing the circuit so that I would have power. When we got home I ordered a new converter from Best Converter. I had to make a slightly larger cut to make it fit, but worked well and now I have the advantage of having the converter charge the batteries, which I didn't have before. I placed my order with them and two days later the new converter was at my door. Great service!





Bullypup

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/16/07 06:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the info on Best converters. I called and talked to Randy there and asked him which one I would need to replace my existing unit. He recommended this one. Although I came up with some more questions after I talked to him. Some of you may be able to answer some. I am sure I will call him back again with more questions. This unit I am needing to replace is a PCL12c made by Todd Engineering.

The Electrical specifications for the Distrubution Panel are:
120 VAC 50/60 Hz 30A
Use 30A RV powercord
12VDC 15A max./circuit
Use 20A max. circuit breaker at battery

For the Converter: PCL12c - 120V 50/60 Hz 190W .7PF, Output:12VDC 12A

Will the unit that I linked to meet (and hopefully exceed) the same specifications that the existing one has now? I noticed the linked unit says 25amp Power center, is this one too small? I want the new one to be able to do everything that the old one was supposed to, such as charge the batteries and provide both 120volt and 12volt. I do not know what all the numbers mean so any help is appreciated. Thanks

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