We bought a new truck in January (an F350), and just recently completed our new RV'ing combo by buying a fifth wheel (Sunnybrook Titan 30RKFS). (I know, I need to change the truck and trailer shown in my signature, but I haven't yet taken the time to figure out how to do that.)
As we prepare for our first trip with this set-up, we're buying several accessory items. One such item is a bottle jack - for use in changing flat tires (hopefully, this is one accessory I'll never need to use). Today, as I stood in front of them at Menards, I contemplated on what weight rating was needed; and then I bought the 4 ton model. Tonight, after reading a few "bottle jack" discussion threads on this forum, I'm wondering if I should have bought a heavier duty bottle jack. It seems that several posters are using 6, 8, 10, and even 12 ton bottle jacks - some even for fivers lighter than mine.
My empty trailer weighs 11,000 pounds. Fully loaded for travel for trips of two to six weeks (we're not full-timers or even snow-birds), our trailer will probably weigh 12,500 to 13,000 pounds - 13,500 tops. I selected the 4 ton jack because I figured even if I were to load the trailer to its full 15,000 pound GVWR, 3000 of those pounds would be on the hitch, leaving about 3000 pounds on each of the four tires. Therefore, raising one side of the trailer in a worst case scenario (at full GVWR), I'd only need to lift 6000 pounds. So, I felt the bottle jack rated at 4 tons (8000 pounds) was plenty of capacity.
Did I buy the right size? When it comes to bottle jacks, the heavier duty they are, the more they weigh. Also, they are taller and wider - so they take up more storage space. So why do so many RV'ers buy what appears to me to be so much excess capacity? What am I overlooking?
Thanks for any enlightenment anybody can provide for me.
2006 Ford F350 V10 2WD SRW SuperCab Short Bed
2005 Sunnybrook Titan 30RKFS Fifth Wheel
I would stick with what you have, anything larger would be overkill and as you said you have to deal with where to put it and the weight of the darn thing.
May the roads and skies always be clear, and the firewood nice and dry!!
My truck came with a 20 ton bottle jack that sits in a bracket behind the rear seat so I didn't need to buy one. I don't know that I would have gone that big if I had bought it myself but I'm a firm believer that you can seldom have too much of anything. I tend to err on the side of more than I need most of the time.
That being said I probably would have bought the 8 or 10 ton if I were you. They aren't that much heavier or expensive and you never know what you might use it for around the house or elsewhere. I'm sure it will be fine to change a flat on your RV but that's just the way I think.
I bought the only one Sam's Club had, it was 20 ton, and < $15.
Retired US Army
2000 Ford F250 SD 7.3 PSD, Firestone Ride-Rite™ air springs
2007 Keystone Laredo 29RL, Doran Pressure Pro and Metal Tire Valves, 16" Michelin XPS Ribs, Dirt Devil CV950 Central Vacuum, 2000W AllPower (Honda Clone), 4000/3500W Champion C46540
When you place the jack under the trailer it can sometimes be quite difficult to pump the jack from an awkard position. A heaver rated jack, although it will raise less for each pump of the jack, it will pump much easier. I use a 10 ton. I would suguest you try your jack. Remember though, that jacking up a trailer on the side of the road or even in an RV space may not be quite as easy as in your driveway.
my old 12 ton bottle jack is a "shortie" model and has a 8"x 8" inch base. I bought the jack several years ago when I had a 24000 lb GVWR GN flatbed pulling construction equipment/materials. It slides right under a axle with flat tire and is very stable with a adapter that cradles the axle/u bolt. Makes javking a 6000-8000 axle much safer.
JIM
'03 2500 Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs
'97 Park Avanue 28' with two slides
Have you thought of using the truck jack? It should have a long crank handle and facilitate better clifting while staying out from under the trailer.
My F 250 jack will crank it right up.
I had a back tire on the truck blow once. Was sitting along the road pulling my stuff out to change the tire. A wrecker pulls up and the "expert" gets out and says i will have to unhook before changing the tire and asked if I wanted him to do it. I said no thanks and jacked the thing up and changed the rear tire.
Two comments:
1. The rating of the jack is probably OK but is the TRAVEL sufficient for your purpose? Is it short enough to get under the frame with a flat tire but with enough stroke to raise the trailer up high enough to get the tire off?
2. You might consider the Trailer Aid (from Camping World) or another ramp-like device (boards and leggo blocks) to accomplish the same thing.
I carry all three; jack, Aid and wood.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2003 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two bikes (both Electric Schwinn's with motor assist)
As suggested above, I recommend going through the setup and actually take a tire off while you're at home. Hook up and do the drill. That way you will find out what works and doesn't work in a controlled situation, and adjust your process while you have access to stores, etc. If you really want a challenge, do it at night in the rain...
If you really want a challenge, do it at night in the rain...
.
HA, HA, Sounds funny but that's more realistic. Also with a trial run you wwill make sure you have all the equipment you need. Last year, I had a trailer blowput and no lug wrench.Spare tire was low too.
Offline
