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Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Slide out not coming in

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Chuck Ebbert

Newport News Va

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Joined: 09/05/2007

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Posted: 09/05/07 06:42am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an 05 Bounder and the living room slide went out but will not retract. Motor sound like it is free spinning, on the way out at the end of travel it made some loud noises like it was skipping on the gears. Bedroom slide is working fine. I went under and tried to bring it manually, HA !!! Am I doing something wrong? Can't get it to the shop with the slide out. Any checks I can do at home? HELP.

CW05 US ARMY

savannah georgia USA

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Posted: 09/05/07 07:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chuck give us a call if you want we just had slideout problems...912-308-4798
Donna and Terry


Terry (active duty army), Donna, Tya, Nathan, Trixie and whoever else decides to tag along
2006 38'BWQS SunnyBrook Titan (4 slides)


wildbyon

Tulsa, OK

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Posted: 09/05/07 10:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just had a similar problem. The small BR slide would come in, but the large LR/DR slide would start to come in only a couple inches and stop. If I kept playing with the in/out I finally was able to get it in. I talked to the dealer just yesterday and bottom line, you need to make sure you have a fully charged battery because the shore power is not enough to power the big slide by itself. When I checked my battery, I found the wing nut on the negative terminal very loose so the cable was hardly making contact. He also reminded me to check the water in the battery, which I had not done. I hope this helps.


'01 Ford F350-7.3l PS Diesel, Lariet, Crew Cab, 4x4, Dully,
Air bag suspension, performance chip, 4" exhaust
Bulldog ATV Rack
2-'04 Honda 450S Foremen ATV's
'06 Travel Trailer-31'Forest River Cardinal

mking

Indianland,South Carolina

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Posted: 09/05/07 01:27pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thats happened too us on 2 occasions. One of the shear bolts that bolts the rod to the gear box broke,and only one side of the slide would start to come in. Had to find another 1/4 in bolt/nut to replace it and it worked fine. Seems that when my D/W runs the slide out or in she will hold the switch down about a second or three after it's in/out,and this puts it in a bind,which causes the bolt to shear off. I now carry extra bolts/nuts


2006 Dodge Quad-Cab 2500 CTD,4;10 gears,pulling a Forestriver Flaggstaff 831qbss

LLeopold

Camarillo, CA USA

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Posted: 09/05/07 03:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ran into this same situation with my tooth/gear slideout for several years. There are a couple of things to check:

There is a "tab" on the drive motor which engages/disengages the drive. For manual retraction/extension, it needs to be disengaged. For normal operation it needs to be engaged. If it isn't it will behave s if the rolled pin has sheared. Check to make sure that this is properly set and not in between the two settings.

If the rolled pin is sheared, it needs to be replaced. However, for several years, I've been replacing the rolled pins and continually shearing them over time about every third or fourth trip out (2-3 months). I got really good at replacing the pins.

I finally placed a call into the company (I cannot recall the name) that makes the slide-out mechanism and they asked what was the fuse rating on the control (it was 20 amps). They recommended that I replace the fuse with a 10 amp ATC type auto-reseting circuit breaker. The intention is when the slide-out is fully extended or retracted, the control is supposed to stop the motor when it detects a slight amperage draw due to the motor trying to extend/retract beyond the set pins on the rails. The motor, under normal load, should not exceed (in my case) the 10 amps unless the motor is straining. In that event the breaker should trip before the pin is sheared, then we simply wait until the breaker resets itself. In the event the breaker trips while the slide-out is being extended or retracted, a 15 amp circuit breaker might then be installed. I bought both a 10 and 15 amp UCB ATC style breaker at $7.50 each at an automotive supply store.

Six months and counting, and so far no pin shear with the 10 amp and nothing has tripped yet. That's my experience so far. Your mileage may vary.

Hope this helps.


Lou Leopold
2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel Quad, SWB, 3.55:1, Rhino Lining
2000 25' Mallard M-23 5M 5th Wheel
Husky 15K w/EZ slider
Wen PowerPro 3500 Generator in a sound box
And I continue to tent camp!


tropical36

Southwest Florida_USA

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Posted: 09/05/07 03:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a problem with mine...which eventually involved an expensive, but simple replaceing of the power gear motor ass'y....it produced a pretty long thread and a lot of information....including cranking it in manually...so you might want to visit ...over there....and possibly get some of your questions answered..
http://www.woodalls.com/forums/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20142511.cfm


"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal, with a tag axle and one slide, on a 1997 P32 Chevy chassis....7.4 Vortec Engine


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