Interesting topic as I am considering upgrading from my 16" to a 20" wheel. Pulling power or torque, should not be impacted significantly by the wheel change if the overall diameter does not change. However, what does often change, but is seldom mentioned, is a decline in braking performance and we RVers know how critical braking performance is. By going to a larger wheel, much of the wheels mass is being moved closer to the outer edge of the wheel. This results in an increase of inertia. This in turn will have some negative impact on braking effectiveness. Whenever making these types of changes, ensure you leave yourself some time to adjust to the new driving characteristics before hooking up and hitting the freeway. Just my $0.02 worth
Imagine my surprise when I went to this post expecting to read about a television. Some of this new terminology can be figured out but I am lost here. What are you referring to when you say TV?
Is your trailer riding level when hitched to the TV now? If it is, will the 20” rims make it nose high? Remember that you want the trailer to ride level as possible. As far as trying to add items to make the TV capable of towing more weight…When you start changing OME you start to change the engineered specifications of the vehicle. When you change the engineered specification you become liable, not the manufacture and not the insurance company. If you get into an accident because you have over loaded the vehicle or the insurance company can prove that you have exceeded the specifications in any way you will be left to stand alone for liability and financially.
20"s are very heavy as well. I put them on my old ford with a 305/55r20 tire. They were 40lbs heavier per wheel. In short order I upgraded my rotors with powerslots and pads with them hawk ones. I had no real complaints, but I wont do that on my new truck.
Late model wife
2002 Daughter
2005 Daughter
2007 Ram 3500srw 5.9L Cummins Laramie. QC Short bed.
2008 Crossroads Zinger 30RB 5th wheel.
18k Reese signature series slide hitch
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