My motor is a 5.9 1996.Is there an after market turbo upgrade.The motor has a K&N air filter and a 4" exhauast with a Donaldson muffler,I had an ATS tranny rebuild with all the upgrades all these made a huge difference in power. Now that the motor is pumping out air I need to know if a turbo upgrade is possible and will it be worth the money.
Oh yes! Depending on how much cash you can afford to part with will depend on how many ponies you can find in that engine. You limits are the rest of the drive train and the cooling system. A '96 5.9, reasonable to get an easy 100 extra out of it. You have a Bosch P pump, the easiest to up grade.
Do do it right, turn up the pump and upgrade the turbo. Wouldn't be hard to end up with a MH that'll run all over some of the slower cars in a 1/4 mile.
Good friend build those engines, gets 700hp out of them without affecting the service life too much, runs 2 turbos and gosh its fun to drive a 4wd 1 ton dually that'll easily out run most of todays hot cars (mustangs, camaros). He's gone beyond 1000hp but hasn't worked out some of the little things like head bolts pulling out of the block, running hot in just a couple of minutes, wringing off drive shafts, bursting transmissions, exploding clutches, etc.
Can you imagine a 36' DP turning 13 second 1/4 mile runs?
IMO Get rid of the K&N. This is an oiled filter that has no business on a turbocharged, intercooled diesel.
You will gain little by going to a bigger turbo without putting more fuel in. The answer, bigger injectors. The link below has links to find a selection of injectors, about 600 bucks, and a fairly easy "DIY" job.
Your injection pump is a Bosch 7100. Go here GENO'S and look for a TST fuel plate for the Dodge Cummins (ISBT) The fuel plate determines the "fuel curve", basically demand/fuel, you can find one perfect for your towing needs. A #8 PLATE gives me 230/605 (h.p./tq) These plates are easy to install and going for the right one will make you happy without burning that much more fuel.
Now the turbo, here is where you go for that:Piers Diesel Research
These folks are the most helpful group I have ever dealt with. You can tell them EXACTLY what you will be doing with your CTD and they will steer you the right way and are happy to offer their knowledge to walk you through the job.
I would recommend getting a high CFM dry air filter, the above link will lead you to one. The K&N debate will outlive us, there are tests showing high CFM through a K&N....it does once the turbo sucks holes through it!
Diesel is simple AIR and FUEL. When you add more fuel the exhaust gasses are greater in volume thus spinning the turbine half of the turbo faster, pushing the compressor half....more boost more air, more fuel...etc. The limiting factor is fuel more than air.
I have a stock turbo and when loaded or accelerating the boost rises to the top of th 35 psi gauge.
Install a Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) gauge as well as a boost gauge before you go into mods. You must watch the EGT's.
My '95 has nearly 250,000 miles and I would not hesitate towing across, up, down and around our country..
gon2dadawgs wrote: IMO Get rid of the K&N. This is an oiled filter that has no business on a turbocharged, intercooled diesel.
You will gain little by going to a bigger turbo without putting more fuel in. The answer, bigger injectors. The link below has links to find a selection of injectors, about 600 bucks, and a fairly easy "DIY" job.
Your injection pump is a Bosch 7100. Go here GENO'S and look for a TST fuel plate for the Dodge Cummins (ISBT) The fuel plate determines the "fuel curve", basically demand/fuel, you can find one perfect for your towing needs. A #8 PLATE gives me 230/605 (h.p./tq) These plates are easy to install and going for the right one will make you happy without burning that much more fuel.
Now the turbo, here is where you go for that:Piers Diesel Research
These folks are the most helpful group I have ever dealt with. You can tell them EXACTLY what you will be doing with your CTD and they will steer you the right way and are happy to offer their knowledge to walk you through the job.
I would recommend getting a high CFM dry air filter, the above link will lead you to one. The K&N debate will outlive us, there are tests showing high CFM through a K&N....it does once the turbo sucks holes through it!
Diesel is simple AIR and FUEL. When you add more fuel the exhaust gasses are greater in volume thus spinning the turbine half of the turbo faster, pushing the compressor half....more boost more air, more fuel...etc. The limiting factor is fuel more than air.
I have a stock turbo and when loaded or accelerating the boost rises to the top of th 35 psi gauge.
Install a Exhaust Gas Temp (EGT) gauge as well as a boost gauge before you go into mods. You must watch the EGT's.
My '95 has nearly 250,000 miles and I would not hesitate towing across, up, down and around our country..
Michael
Or you could just call Banks and get it done so that everything works together. Some of the Banks kits do far more than overfuel (as most other changes do such as larger injectors) the engine, they change the injector pressure as well as the timing of the injectors.
I know this is off topic a bit.... but before you do any modifications to your engine I would make sure that the Killer Dowel Pin modification has been done.
I found out about it the hard way... very costly repair when it isn't taken care of.
Greg
'96 Holiday Rambler Endeavor DP/'03 4wd tracker
Datastorm F1/D2/7000/on SatMx5 See where I am today
Unless you're looking for big hp, you won't need to change the turbo. A fuel plate change will get you a nice comfortable increase and keep the exhaust temps down to a reasonable level.
Try dieseltruckresouce.com for lots of good info on the 12 valvers. Search for BHAF, big honkin air filter, to replace the K&N. Then guages to monitor exhaust temps and boost.
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