85AllegroSam
Madison, Al
Full Member
Joined: 10/15/2007
View Profile
 Offline
|
Need information (just basic steps) on what is involved in removing rear brake drum on 1984 Chevy p30 chassis for Allegro 24' class A motor home. This has the full floating axel standard for GVW 12800 lb chassis. I need to replace wheel cylinder etc.
I have searched for days on the web (need to learn some better searching skills) and cannot find anything.
I haven't started tearing into it yet. I think I need to pull the axel by removing the 8 bolts on the end of the hub but beyond that I am concerned on what to do next. What tools are needed etc?
The only way I can aford to keep rolling is to do it myself. Hope one of you can kindly point me in the right direction
2008 Dutchmen Kodiak 27CDSL, 94 Dodge 4x4 Cummins, Trailer mods: Automatic switchover for Honda EU3000IS generator w/extension plug to back of truck. Propride 3P hitch Plan to do mods for camping in cold weather.
|
SCOMP225
Brownsburg,Indiana
Senior Member
Joined: 12/08/2002
View Profile
Offline
|
It's been awhile but as I remember:
Remove the 8 Axle bolts and slide out the axle.
Have a drip pan ready as gear oil ( smells great) will spill out.
Remove the Spindle lock washer and the spindle nuts.
The drum (very heavy) will slide off.
Upon re-installing Install the 1st nut and torque tight and then back it off
snug it on, install 2nd nut and lock washer.
Rotate drum and check for any end play.
Re-install axle and New seal and torque the bolts.(check for torque specs.
I would suggest all new parts ( inner Seal and new Axle Shaft Seal)
Chuck
1992 American Eagle
Security: Sam- Black Lab/Glock When He's asleep on the couch.
|
enblethen
Moses Lake, WA USA
Senior Member
Joined: 01/05/2005
View Profile
|
Chuck steered you correctly.
For information you can get a Chilton's manual that has motor home chassis in them.
I have one that covers General Motors full size vans. It includes the MH chassis. Mine covers from 1987-97. It does contain basic information but enough to do most projects.
Another source is online at "autozone.com". look up parts and how to do.
"partsamerica.com" allows you look up parts and see some pictures.
Be careful the drums are heavy.
Bud
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
|
FlaCracker
Florida
Senior Member
Joined: 06/17/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
Lets see if we can help out. Raise the end of the axel and support with jackstand behind the backing plate. Remove the axel as you said by removing axel nuts. Hit the center of the axel shaft with a large hammer. This should make the flange pop out enough to put a pry bar between the back of the flange and the front of the hub. Pull the axel shaft out of the hub and housing. You should see the spindle nut and keeper threaded on the axel housing just inside the bore of the hub. Bend the tangs flat that hold the spindle nut in place. Here is where you will need a spindle nut socket to remove the nut. I think that Azone will have these, if not call Tri-Cities Truck Parts in Muscle Shoals, AL and see if they have one. You can remove the wheels, hub and drum if you have a wheel dolly, if not I suggest you take the wheels off before you start this process. You do not have to separate the hub and drum. Slide off the assembley from the axel stub end. You will be able to view the shoes, cylinders and hardware ect. You will need a gasket or RTV silicone to seal the axel shaft flange to the hub. Good Luck with your project. PM me with any questions.
|
85AllegroSam
Madison, Al
Full Member
Joined: 10/15/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
You guys just blew me away. I never expected so much good info in such a short time. I just told my wife the Motorhome is saved.Fantastic information. What if i used a piece of 3/16 paneling as a wheel dolly?
Everything I just read from you guys makes sense but I am murky on the wheel bearings. Will I be disturbing these and will they have to be repacked or some other seals replaced.
Thanks ever so much.
|
|
|
FlaCracker
Florida
Senior Member
Joined: 06/17/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
The wheel bearings ride in the rear end lube, no need to grease or re-pack. If they are not bad/or worn you an reuse them, but a new oil seal is a must. The "poor mans wheel dolly" works good with a piece of sheet metal and some lube (better than the luan panel) for the tire to slide on. BE CAREFUL as this method is very hard on the new seal with any mis alignment during installation of the seal/hub and axel stub end. IMHO, while you have a job going, change the rearend lube if it not has been done receintly.
|
BobJoh
Whitestown, IN 46075
Senior Member
Joined: 05/23/2004
View Profile
|
Be careful as you remove the wheelhub/brakedrum as the outer roller bearing may flop out and onto the sandy ground. On older rig may have ridge on outside of brake drum so it wont come off without backing off the starwheel. Need thin screwdrive to holdfree the spring finger (and draw a picture for when you replace you put the starwheel barell on correctly/not flipped over) Cleean well and also clean the hub cavity and remove the inner oil seal and replace... take it along to AutoParts to get replacement. And clean inner bearing.. now because both bearings are clean and dry.. grease with wheel bearing grease to lube them until the diff. fluid/lube gets out to that axel stub and refills the wheel hub. Yes, a good time to clean out the diff also and refill with synthetic gear oil and refill again after first trip as enough will splash out the axel hub end and fill the hub that it will take over half a quart to bring up to level again. On the first run I drive it sideways on a parking lot or other slope to force the diff lube to go out and refill the hub and do it again l and right sides. Others just do med. speed 'S'es going down a quiet street or big parking lot to splash gear oil back out the axel stub and refill the dry cleaned out wheel hub. Get a good sturdy pair of brake spring pliers to reset those strong springs in their position.. do a drawing of location to assist correct placement. Have a coupla spray cans of brake cleaner to clean everything do not blast with air as may have asbestisos dust. Remember to chock other wheel well as with transmission in park.. as you lift one side it will/that wheel will rotate backward and let the other rear wheel roll even with a driveline brake. Now is a good time to plan to replace alllll the brake fluid to purge out moisture. Sand shoes and drum lightly and on reassemble before lowering wheel to the ground Adjust star wheel(after bleeding brakes and some firm excersizing of brakes to center/seat shoes first) This may be a good time to replace all brake hoses also.... I took off the duals first as hub and drum where very heavy in themselves. 19.5 I marked position first so clocked same as replaced in case it would upset the dynamic wheel weight balance. Get the slotted 6 sided box wrench to do the 'B' nut on the brake line to wheel cyl. Soak for a coupla days with PBlaster also on the bleed nipple. My bleed nipple was rusted.. used a smaller socket just bigger than the nipple and use many light hammer taps to break its set and used heat on one before 6 side socket to loosen another used vice grips to clamp on hex and cresent on vicegrip body to loosen without rounding hex. AmerAutoParts didnt have cups but NAPA did and boots also old boots were full of rust like apple sauce as slight leak and brake fluid is water absorbng. Only sligh honing of cyl and filled in some rust pits with JBweld. My DAna had whl cyl top and bottom on each backing plate and I worked to prim bottom one as bleeding at top outside on backing plate didnt do much for the bottom cyl and its tubeing. 1975 Dodge Coachmen 25ft Cls A, hard to get parts, But drums and shoes OK as only 38K original miles.
* This post was
last
edited 10/23/07 09:00pm by BobJoh *
View edit history
BobJoh
|
bigbusguy
Cambodia ,Idaho
New Member
Joined: 10/22/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
BobJoh wrote: Only sligh honing of cyl and filled in some rust pits with JBweld.
JB weld ?? Is it brake fluid proof? If so good idea.
1974 Shasta Motor home 24' class A
Soon to travel Asia by motorhome.
If your North Idaho need help fixing somthing stop on by .
Cambodia or Idaho
Visit Cambodia best place on earth, best kept travel secret.
Motelcambodia.com
Cambodia and asia Photos
|
jtessnm
Los Lunas NM
New Member
Joined: 03/19/2005
View Profile
|
All of the above are correct, however the bearings ride in differential oil. When you reinstall them they will be dry. fill the cavity with differential oil prior to installing the axle,or when you are finished jack up the opposite side to allow oil to flow to the bearing cacity on the side worked on. Level the axle and check the differential oil and fill as necessary jt
|
85AllegroSam
Madison, Al
Full Member
Joined: 10/15/2007
View Profile
Offline
|
A gold mine of information. Yes indeed I will be replacing the brake hose. My front ones actually stopped up somehow (deterioriation) and caused brakes to lock up. The rear one can't be far behind. Up until I saw it my self I was skeptical about this kind of failure on a brake hose but it is true. They will sometimes stop up such that the fluid can only go one way. I suppose they can also rupture
This is the first axel of this type I have worked on. On others, (pickup trucks)the wheel cylinders did not cost much so my thought was just to replace what ever I find in there simply bacause it is 23 years old and leaking. BobJoh, or whoever has a thought on this, is there some reason, to hone rather than replace on these, that I don't know about?
I realize a repaired original part can be better sometimes than the replacement but perhaps you are talking about what to do if a cylinder is not available. Just wondering??
Again I am just flabergasted that someone would take so much time to answer a question like this. Thanks again.
|
|
|
