My 84 Jamboree Ralley is wonderfully well constructed. I paid 9K 3 years ago and have done very little to it. Minor oven repair (since gone bad), freshwater petcock, carb adjustment on engine, and I am probably going to have to replace the carb on my generator. Otherwise, everything works, and works well. The very best units that have been abused are no better than the lower echelon models that are well cared for. The underpinnings are almost all the same. You can upgrade and replace interiors with new curtains and cushion covers. Works wonders for freshening. But steer clear fo any with water leaks and stink. Tires get replaced at 5 years, period.
If you can spend as much as $20,000 you should be able to find a very nice not-so-old coach. Just BE SURE the engine is fuel injected....NOT carbureted. With the changes made in fuel in recent years, fuel injection will run much better, have better fuel economy, and give you more power. Carburetors are tempermental with today's fuels, and also in high altitude areas. It seems the change from carburetors to fuel injection occured near 1993 to 1994, give-or-take a year.....especially in Class-A coaches. Class-Cs may have switched earlier. I would stay away from any coach without fuel injection. Multi-port fuel injection is prefered over throttle body injection. Multi-port means one injector per cylinder, compared to one injector shared among all cylinders. You get a little more power and eficiency. But don't rule out throttle body injection if the coach is everything you are looking for.
As others mentioned here, interior smells (mold issues) and other obvious inspections apply. I also prefer solid panel fiberglass exterior construction over the aluminum siding. Ideally a fiberglass roof too.
Under-carriage inspection is CRITICAL. Nearly all RV manufacture "Added" framing is not treated properly for rust prevention as normal cars are. So if an RV was driven often over many years in winter salty conditions, it's frame is likely weakened. Surface rust is typical. Deep penetrating rust is another story. If rust can be scrapped off in chunks or layers, then I'd walk away.
* This post was
edited 12/13/07 08:03am by ron.dittmer *
Bought new in June 2007, Phoenix Cruiser-2350
Fits inside our garage.
Dingy towing a red Toyota MR2 Spyder
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Bumpyroad wrote: at ten years old I would NOT buy one with a rubber roof. that leaves winnebago and a few others.
actually at one year old I would not want one with a rubber roof.
bumpy
Same here. No rubber roofs for me.
While on the subject of rubber be aware that tires have a timed life span too and not just wear. Michelin says 10 years. It can be shorter depending on environment. You will see checking on tires with some age and that is a judgement call. Michelin also says some checking is OK but not big ones. You can factor in the cost of tires on your paying price for an RV. Deduct from book price if they need to be replaced. Remember the spare. When I bought mine I put 7 new tires on it (and two new batteries) before the first long trip.
I was in just the same situation a month ago. I ended up with a Serro Scotty 25' with a rear kitchen. I would recommend looking around for a scotty, there are rare but one pops up every so often(they are not make anymore because of their factory burnt down in 97'). There are a few issue that I was aware of and the price reflected it too. I enjoy the hands on work but some may not. Do not be in a hurry and look everything over. Just by researching you will narrow the field down and you will be much more informed and be able to act on(& know of) a good deal.
Good luck and Safe Camping, Robert.
PS Rubber roof are just as good as any other roof. In fact a lot of business buildings have the same rubber roof that are on RV's. There are a lot of Rubber roofs out there and the problem one are the same ratio to other kinds.
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