JMT2
socal
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Joined: 01/23/2009
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Can we please close this thread?
**holds up flame deflector**
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lincster
Mesa Az
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Joined: 01/27/2003
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anarion55 wrote:
Last month, we installed 16" steel wheels & Carlisle load range "E" tires (mfgr p/n 5193411), rated at 3960 lbs each @ 95 PSI (for a total tire capacity of 15,840 BUT - the best 6-lug, 16" wheels available are only rated for 3200 lbs each @ 80 PSI (total of 12800 - which is about the GVWR of the trailer anyway, but less than the tires). To get higher capacity wheels, we'd have to change the axles & go to 8-lug hubs/wheels.
But still, we now have 2400 lbs more capacity than we had with the "D" range tires. In addition, the rating on the wheels is most likely conservative, so we probably have an additional 100-200 lbs per tire as a safety margin. We don't intend to push that limit, but still; it's nice to know it's there.
I hope this long-winded post is helpful; if you have a similar problem, check your tire load rating... if we had done it sooner we'd have saved LOTS of $$$ and headaches.
Tony
Don't think I've ever seen an E rated tire got to 95psi. Are you sure about that?
2012 F350 PSD CC 4X4 Dually to pull 2006 LE3905
Lincsters Truck/Trailer
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dedmiston
Valencia
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JMT2 wrote:Can we please close this thread?
**holds up flame deflector**
Nope.
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anarion55
South Florida
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lincster wrote:
Don't think I've ever seen an E rated tire got to 95psi. Are you sure about that?
Yes, the new tires are Carlisle ST235/85R16 (Product code 5193411). Load Range LRF (F-rated?). 31.9" MTD Diameter, Maximum load capacity 3960 (single wheel); 3520, dual wheel, at 95 lbs. It carries the notation "requires HD wheel" - for that capacity/inflation.
http://www.carlisletire.com/products/trailer/radial_trail/index.html
So we're limited by the wheels, not the tires, but still able to load up to the GVWR of the trailer now.
Susan & Tony
(3 kids/3 dogs)
'06 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CC/Shortbed; 6.6 Duramax/Allison, Reese DualCam, Prodigy
'07 WW FSC2800 Billet
Yamaha V-Star 650, TTR125-L, Suzuki Z250, Eiger 4X4m Kawasaki Ninja 250 (hers)
Kawasaki ZX-9r, KFX400, KX250 2-stroke (his)
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dedmiston
Valencia
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Hey Tony (anarion55). Can you start a new thread for the tire issue? This really isn't the right thread for it.
Thanks!
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anarion55
South Florida
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dedmiston wrote:Hey Tony (anarion55). Can you start a new thread for the tire issue? This really isn't the right thread for it.
Thanks!
Actually, I was about done... just replying to a question. IF you feel it should go in its own thread, can you move it?
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dedmiston
Valencia
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I can't move it. The forum software doesn't work that way.
Don't worry about it.
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armdrag
WNY
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Joined: 11/14/2011
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Hi All,
I have been repairing my 2007 WW FS2500 since the day I brought it home in 2007. I have documented as much as I can the damage and the fix. I also have some outrigger repair pictures from another poster. cant remember who. Click here to access my google photo album (click on the picture)
I hope this helps those that cant afford to take it to a dealer to get fixed.
Regards
Ken
Here are some pics
If you have a roof that is sagging the reason is because the rafters were made with finger joined studs. Not for horizontal use.
Here is the factory stamp on one of my rafters
I am replacing rafters with 1-1/2 ripped down from clear(no knots) 2x6. And sistering 1-1/2 x 1/8 angle iron to them. I will be posting more pictures as I progress with the rebuild
* This post was
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edited 05/30/12 10:47am by armdrag *
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callen06
st.charles, mo
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Wow! Thats really sad to have to do so much work to a fairly new trailer. They really screwed alot of people. I will never do any business with their new company.
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allcool
sFL Glamis PHX
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Joined: 10/22/2011
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armdrag wrote:Hi All,
I have been repairing my 2007 WW FS2500 since the day I brought it home in 2007. I have documented as much as I can the damage and the fix. I also have some outrigger repair pictures from another poster. cant remember who. Click here to access my google photo album (click on the picture)
I hope this helps those that cant afford to take it to a dealer to get fixed.
Regards
Ken
Here are some pics
If you have a roof that is sagging the reason is because the rafters were made with finger joined studs. Not for horizontal use.
Here is the factory stamp on one of my rafters
I am replacing rafters with 1-1/2 ripped down from clear(no knots) 2x6. And sistering 1-1/2 x 1/8 angle iron to them. I will be posting more pictures as I progress with the rebuild
Wow, that is a lot of damage, and looks to be a very poor choice of construction materials and construction.
Sorry you're having those problems.
I'm not very familar with the construction of the WW roof rafter system. In your pics, are we looking at what my WW fsw3200 brochure says is...
" 2"x4" Constructed Truss Roof "
2007 WW FSW3200
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