wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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Re; Picnic table.... Depends on if you have a clamp on vice.
Here is a suggestion... Get a spare hitch adapter for the receiver on your MH (As it happens I have a few) This should be a 'Drop' type adapter for a hitch ball by the way, The kind where the ball can be below or above the receiver level.
Now, Have a body shop or weld shop weld a 4: or larger vice onto the "Tong" of the adapter in the "UP" position (Vice higher than receiver) you now have a bench vice that is well anchored, NOTE: a long adapter or an extension gets it farther from your rig.. If you have a 5'th wheel this goes on the tow truck's 2" receiver In my case it goes on the towed's 1 1/4 inch adapter
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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gordonls
Victoria, Texas
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Joined: 12/29/2003
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Jerry B wrote:gordonls wrote:Rebuild both rear jacks. The rebuild kit from Power Gear has an upgraded seal. The old seal is an "O" Ring, the replacement is a chevron shaped seal. Does a lot better seal.
I need to rebuild two jacks also. Could you provide some detail/degree of difficulty on how to do the job? Thanks.
Jerry B,
The job isn't too bad if you follow the directions that come with the rebuild kit. My jacks have the internal springs. I wouldn't even attempt to do the job without removing the jacks. I used a floor jack to support the jack while I disconnected the hydraulic lines (I put a plastic bag over the hose end to keep the fluid from leaking out)and removed the 6 mounting bolts. You need to make sure all of the fluid is drained out of the jack. I turned mine upside down in a bucket and also removed the plug opposite the hose connection to help drain the oil. If you don't get all the oil out you have a near impossible chance at getting the bolt threads hot enough to melt the "LockTite" thread lock. Just follow the directions. Good Luck.
2007 Monaco Diplomat PDQ
40' 400HP Cummins
2006 Trailblazer Toad
FMCA F376075
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Jerry B
Ozark Highlands
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Joined: 06/11/2001
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Thanks Gordonis. I'll be away from home base until March. Better wait on this job until I get home. Thanks
Jerry B
1996 Dolphin 535,F-53.
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franknsandy
USN-Retired, Skippers, Virginia
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Joined: 07/23/2007
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wy8whatever
Thanks for the vice info. GREAT IDEA. Will put one together in the near future.
Frank
Frank n Sandy
USN-Retired
96 Dolphin Diesel / 2002 Saturn
Fulltiming since 2004
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franknsandy
USN-Retired, Skippers, Virginia
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Joined: 07/23/2007
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I found a hydrolic repair company here in Las Vegas that repairs them for most of the RV dealers, cost of repair (re-seal) if I bring it in is $125 to $150. Says he has been repairing them for over 7 years and no call backs. The Jack Shop.
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Gas Man
Winston-Salem, NC.
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Joined: 07/17/2003
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Since the jack is still usable, inspect the extended shaft for pitting before ordering parts. Putting a new seal kit in won't be of much help if the first time you cycle the jack the pitted areas destroy the new seal. Shafts are available too if needed. Helps to do preventative maintenance on all jacks on a regular basis. If you camp and have a major rainfall wipe the shafts down before you retract them, keeps the grit splashed by rain from being wiped off at the seals. Also wipe and spray the extended shafts down with pure silicone spray at least monthly, just cycle up and down several times. Don't use petroleum based lubricants as they will hasten the deterioration of wipers and seals.
D. Brown
Winston-Salem, NC.
2004 Damon Daybreak 3270F
Life's a race. Keep your motor runnin and burn rubber every now and then!
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arlinv
Simpsonville, South Carolina,USA
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Joined: 01/07/2004
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I've had two repaired in the last 3 1/2 years. One was a 16,000# which required the more expensive kit, and the most recent (a couple of months ago) was for a 24,000# on my current coach. The first cost $30 at a local hydraulic repair shop, and the second $60 at the same shop. They did the last one in about 45 minutes while I waited for it. I just removed/replaced them.
arlinv
'03 American Eagle 42E
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