My RV has never been cool in the summer, and never warm in the winter when driving. I run 2 roof A/C's in the summer and the furnace in the winter when going down the road.
But it still does not fix the problem. In the summer we sweat, in the winter we freeze.
I thought it was the lousy F/L fan and system, but after my trip from CA to TX last week I don't think it is.
When I was parked with the engine running and the dash heat on, the front compartment heated just fine, felt great. It was only when I started going down the road that all the heat went away.
I have had the factory seal the dash 2 times, adjust the door about 5 times, but there is way too much air coming through the door and the dash.
Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated ?
I have used spray foam on the dash and 1 inch wide tape on the door frame, but it has not fixed the problem, HELP !
On our previous coach the wind/cold/hot would come in between the step cover and the steps! So we either closed the step cover, or if parked, we used a blanket to cover the gap. Check to see if that is where you're getting the draft.
Wil & Cyndi & Einstein (African Gray)
FMCA # F262386
Before you try anything else, try changing the 'recirculation' setting or switch, so that it does not draw the outside air in. In effect there should be a control on a dash air that diverts air from outside to recirculate. That might be your solution.
Jack & Nim Myton
'07 Revolution LE, 40E, DSCVRY "Reveille"
'05 RAV4, RVPUSHR
Moderator, Revolution Owners Group, Good Sam, FMCA
www.revolutionmotorhome@yahoogroups.com
I have never had the problem with the door on the rigs that i've had through the years. But could your air vent trap door (heater area) not be closing. It is my understanding that, since a diesel has no vacume in the engine intake, a vacume pump is often used to close that trap door when heat is being used. Perhaps that mechanism needs to be checked out. Good luck.
On my old RV had similar problem; found the entire front assembly broken loose; rivets all popped and a gap formed. Took the trim off, drilled out the broken rivets and installed new steel rivets. Applied 3m 5200 on seams. Solved the air leak problem.
Pick up a non contact IR thermometer and scan the front while someone is driving.
Will likely find the leaks fast.
To help find the dash leaks, place a bright light under the dash on a dark night. Open up the front of the coach and look for light leaks and seal up those openings.
Fred & Vicki
Richmond Hill, Ga
2000 Holiday Rambler Endeavor/330 Cat
2000 Honda Odyssey toad w SMI Silent Partner braking system
Tire Sentry monitoring system
Listen for air leaks around door, under dash and anywhere else with a mechanics stethoscope while someone else drives. Cover any suspect spots outside with masking or duct tape and drive again to verify noise gone/changed. Make appropriate repair to taped area ie: caulk or adjustment for permanent repair.
Bundle up when it is cold, strip down to your skivvies when it is hot and pray for the temperature to stay in the mid 70s with light cloud cover.
88 Gulf Stream 34' Sun Vista, Ford 460, Edelbrock Perfomer carb, Thorley headers
Ford F-250 crew cab 4X4, 6.0 turbo diesel complete roof rebuild
daughter 15, son 11
US Army Desert Storm vets (both of us)
left: The Ol' Gal right: DW with White Lightnin'
My parents had a door problem with their '04 Allegro. The local dealer tried to adjust it, Red Bay tried to adjust it, but neither one new how to adjust it correctly. They both wanted to adjust it too tight, thinking it was loose. The fact of the matter is, that the door latch has two catches. If the latch is too tight, it will never catch the second latch. Most likely, your door needs to be loosened so it will catch the second latch. Then it should seal properly.
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