The standard tank sensor looks something like this (I hate ASCII drawings here)
Power soruce---Display-----(F)--/\/\/\--(2/3)--/\/\/\/--(1/3) (G)---Ground
(F),(2/3) and (1/3) are sensors, (G) is also a "Sensor" /\/\/\/ is a resistor
The resistors are in an epoxy chip where the wires meet,
Find this chip (Follow the wires from your sensor) and cut the wire that does NOT go to a sensor. ............ HOLD ON I JUST FIGURED IT OUT.
You have a bad ground on the sensor board.. I had exactly the same problem fixed the ground and it went away.
In my case it was where the wire from the sensor board connected to the other wiring, they used a crimp on connector and with the great difference in wires it simply did not hold the smaller sensor board wire. I re-did with better connectors and it's been 100% since
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
Thanks for the tips! I don't think it should be corrosion as the trailer was only built the end of November. If that's the problem it will have to wait until warm weather before a can remove the belly skin and get to the tanks anyway. The loose ground certainly makes sense, especially since the false reading started while the trailer was in transport. Now..can anyone tell me how to get the faceplate off without breaking something?
put a sharp object and lift the tab on the left middle side of the picture, or use your fingernail. I used my pocket knife gently.
99 Ford 7.3 SC SD with ATV rack on top
2003 Cougar 245EFS
mods-4 golf cart batteries, 1750 watt inverter with toggle switch installed for living room outlets
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