I have a similar problem - no gravity fill. I do have a "winterization" set up - you stick the tube down in a jug of pink antifreeze and turn on the pump, then as you open the valves it fills the line with pink stuff. I've been trying to figure a way for it to pump back into the fresh water tank - just haven't had time to look at the drawing yet. I suspect that if I put the fill valve in a mid position it will draw water from a container into the tank - anyone try this ?
Dave W. AKA "Toyman"
KE5GOH - On 146.52
RV's ? What RV's ???
Apache Pop-up
Classic GMC Motorhome
07 Leisure Travel Sprinter
Do Boats Count ?
klutchdust wrote: Blown up water tank? I doubt that the pressure coming in from a hose is going to 'blow' up a water tank. The vent is to let air out not vent 'pressure'.
Flat sided fresh water tanks will not withstand any pressure. You must be sure the vent is large enough to prevent any pressure in the tank when it gets full.
I stand corrected, after looking at the tank under neighbors trailer it appears lucky enough to even hold water, very soft. The tanks I installed are different.
I guess that I must just be lazy. When ever I use a campground, I use their water. And before I am ready to go, I fill my fresh water with my Hose and Filter. I also have the attachment that lets you turn the water on or off right there on the hose while you are filling up the fresh water tank. To fill a fresh water tank, you don't need any type of a regulator on it, as when it is full, it shoots water out of a small hole, right where the water hose connects. To me, it doesn't get any simpler than this. If my fresh water tank is empty, it takes me all of about 4 minutes to completly fill my Fresh water system. Maybe I'm just to old to change my ways, as I have been doing it this way for some 40+ years now. And I never have any problems, or any worries which way a valve is soupposed to be turned. And adding water from another container, to our Fresh Water tank, is also very simple and fast also, with the set-up that I use. I guess I like the old saying: "KISS" Keep it Simple Stupid. Good Luck. Happy Camping, Dan & Jill
1997 Ford F-250, H.D. Extended-Cab, Short Bed, 7.3 PSD, K&N Air Filter, 5000 lbs air bags w/on board compressor w/guage, SuperChips Tuner/Programer. 1996 Nash 24fter 5er, 15K "Lil" Rocker Hitch w/BedSaver, Twin EU2000i Gen's W/Kit. Nam-Vet, 33 Months.
I had the same problem. The hose you put into the water fill connection was too short. I made a similar thing but with a hose long enough to reach into the tank, a couple of feet long in my case. I can fill the tank at full flow now with no backflow.
Thanks for the replies, everybody. I'm going to try and plumb it as I suggested; there is a vent in the tank, so I don't think pressure building will be a problem. I'll just make sure and let it fill slowly.
1976 Vega Wheelcamper *In the continual process of restoration*
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo (4.7L v8, 2wd, Factory Tow Package)
"Camping is a way to forget what you're leaving at home...until you have to go back " !!\\--Pictures Here--//!!
dandagreer wrote: Thanks for the replies, everybody. I'm going to try and plumb it as I suggested; there is a vent in the tank, so I don't think pressure building will be a problem. I'll just make sure and let it fill slowly.
Just trolling here tonight, this is very interesting and I too would like to do something like this....but for me do this, I would have to remove drawers and such to make this work. It would be nice to install some type of electric valve system so I didn't have to "manually" do that.
Ok so the vent question, why can't you just open the fresh water from the outside then fill from the inside? This way the air pressure could escape that way?
2006 Ford F250 King Ranch PSD
2008 Jayco Eagle Super Light 31.5BHDS, KC5PFG,
5th Airborne with SideWinder, Plugitright Stabilizers.
I didn't read every response carefully to avoid a repeat of information, but I had my favorite RV service place plumb in a valve and fill line from the main water line which comes into the rig right next to the fresh water tank. That tank is under my bed, along with the plumbing entry from outside and the water pump.
They also plumbed in an overflow tube routed out of the top of the tank and down through the floor to the outside. (Good thing they did that - I hadn't asked for it. Their thinking was smarter and more complete than mine was - and is)
I just reach under the bed and twist the valve. Water pours into the tank - and when my 5 minute timer goes "DING" I check the level or shut it off.
I also had them add a city water shut-off valve under there so that even if I was attached to city water, I could shut it off (from the inside without having to go outside) and use the warmer water in the tank inside my rig. That keeps the hot water tank from getting swamped with very cold water from the outside in winter. I only need to do that when I'm taking a shower.
Brian K7ZRZ
Campgrounding hosting - Oregon State Parks
1987 30' Holiday Rambler Class A
GL1800 Goldwing - Honda Scooter Mounted
2000 Silver Miata LS Toad
jmpulse wrote: This post just gave me a off the wall idea on how to fill my fresh water tank...
I'll make an adapter to hook to the fresh tank drain, and then fill it from the bottom up! That would get rid of my filling fresh tank issues!
Funny how ideas can come from weird things!
Are you talking about the fresh low point drain? If so, how are you going to get to that from in inside? Unless I don't understand what you are talking about.
If you are talking about the low point drain for Fresh, isn't that a very small opening? That GPH will be VERY slow.
Offline
" (Custom).jpg)
