Admiral
el estado buckeye
Senior Member
Joined: 06/08/2003
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Pressure treated?
No, they're heavier and pine boards won't rot unless they're on the ground wet for a few years. The composite plastic deck boards are even heavier than pt.
2004 Damon Daybreak 2960F
05 Honda Element LX
There must be more to democracy than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
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robbins
Sonora, Ca
Senior Member
Joined: 12/13/2006
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If I know I'm going to a rv park, I use my link blocks. Everything is usually flat and hard.
If going boondocking I take 2x12's and 2x6s because the ground isn't always flat or firm.
See 'ya on top
Keith
2004 2500HD silverado 4x2 extra-cab
265/75/16 Hercules tires
Reese 15000 Pro Hitch
2006 Gulf Stream 30FBRG
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H & E
North Texas
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Joined: 10/05/2006
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I carry the lego type leveling blocks and ten 12 inch long pieces of the composite deck board. Lego type blocks unless on dirt then composite boards.
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tvman44
Southwest Louisiana
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Joined: 09/25/2007
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I carry a 1" x 6" long enough to fit under both tires and stick out about 4" on each end, also another 1" x 6" about 4" shorter than the first one plus a 2" x 6" about 1" shorter than the first. All boards are pressure treated and cut in half for easier storage also ane end of all pieces are cut at a 45 degree angle. I also carry the Linx Levelers "the orange plastic blocks" but always seem to use the wood blocks because they are easier to use. 
Papa Bob
1* DW "Granny"
1* 2008 Brookside Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
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cruiserjs
Aurora, CO, USA/ Mesa AZ/ openroad
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Joined: 07/02/2003
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I prefer a simple ramp that I built for our fiver. Buy an 8' 2x6. cut it into 2 4'pieces. cut one of the 4' on the diagonal to make two triangles. Screw the other 4' piece with a beveled end onto the two triangles to make the ramp. Fits across the bed of pickup for travel. Either back on or pull onto the ramp on whichever side is low until the front mounted large level shows the side-to-side in level. Block it up and then level front to back.
only one piece to handle and self "adjusting".
Your .02 will be charged to your account.
John
Colorado Cruiser
Cruiser CF29CK 5th wheel; 2001 Silverado 2500HD shortbed
wonderful lifetime travelling companion/spouse
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George H
Washington
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Joined: 06/27/2006
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I've found that the Lego type blocks will sink into anything other than a paved surface. Tried 2X8 lumber and it will split along grain. Still looking for a good all around solution.
George, Juanita and Mandie (boss Shar-Pei)
01 F350, PSD, DRW
05 Carri-Lite 32RS3
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shorthair
vancouver, wa. usa.
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Joined: 03/18/2004
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I took some scrape 1/2" plywood & made mine by glueing them in 2's & different lengths from 16" to 10" then I can stack as many as needed plus if a rock is under them they won't split like a 2x8 will.
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Southwind85
Where I Park
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Joined: 01/31/2007
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I have 2x8's cut into 2 matched sets of 4 pieces each. Actually it's more like 2 sets of 2 that will connect together. The steps are just long enough for a tire before bumping up to the next level. The front edges are cut to 45 degrees. I drilled 1" holes in the boards to put dowels so they won't slide off each other while rolling the RV up on them. Works well on concrete and sand without sinking. When stacked, the boards will raise any two tires 6". I can use the boards as needed to raise other wheels as needed. Turning the boards sideways under the dual rear tires saves a board when necessary.
Here's a couple useful leveling/positioning tricks:
I wrote 3 numbers down on the sides of the leveling boards. The first number is the distance for fixed reference plumb line points on the vehicle to the outer edge of the board. The next number is the board to board separation distance for the front tires. The last is board-board distance for the dual rear tires. No more getting the RV up on the boards and walking around to the other side to find the tire is half off the board. Both sets of tires roll up centered on the boards every time now since they're parallel and aligned properly.
I also marked the bottom of the driver door frame with distance marks. Each mark is two inchs of travel on the ground from my normal head height while looking over the side. I simply put a rock on the ground and move forward or backward the distance I need. No more worrying about running off the back of the leveling boards or crumpling the ladder on an overhang. I can reliably stop the RV within 1/2" of where I want it.
The Good Life
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Gordon Ford
Salt Spring Island BC Canada
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Joined: 04/01/2006
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I use a selection of 2x6 construction offcuts 8" to 12" long with 45 degree bevels on the ends. All are painted red so that we don't loose them. For some strange reason half of them have disappeared by the time we get back home from a trip. Will soon have to start scrounging offcuts from construction sites.
2004 F-350 Supercab short box 4X4 PSD
2006 Nash 21-5R
51 Ford 8N and may more toys
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dave54
CA.
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Joined: 02/12/2004
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I have some of the lego-type leveling blocks. I carry some boards to put under the jacks. I use whatever scraps I can get for free. That way I don't care if they break or get lost.
I also carry 4 pieces of 1/2 inch plywood 18x24 when setting up in really soft soil or sand. A really big footprint to keep from settling.
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Log off and go camping!
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