RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Refrig. electrical problem??????
RV Community | RV News & Reviews | RV Sales | Plan a Trip | RV Clubs & Services | RV Camping DealsRV.net
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Refrig. electrical problem??????

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
studmuffin

west central Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 02/13/2004

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 12:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have a 2001 Dynasty, with a Norcold 1200, that has me confused.

Plugged into campground AC, 30 or 50 amp, refrig works OK on AC.
Run on LP, and everything is OK plugged into campground AC or home AC.
Plugged into 110, at home, with a 15/30/50 adapter string, the GFI, in the garage, trips as soon as you go from LP to AC. Made up a test plug and put a ampprobe on the 110VAC line. If I turn on the water heater, I get 12 amps. If I run the vacumn cleaner, I get 5-6 amps. So the ampprobe works.
Turn the refrig from LP to AC, I do not ever get a blip on the probe and the GFI trips. Checked the 2 plugs behind the refrig ( behind the outside panel ) and the polarity checker says they are wired properly.
I don't have a clue, any ideas or input would be helpful. I think its a grounding problem with the refrig (???) maybe, but any ideas would be appriciated.

Thanks, the Muffin Man. Grounded out, once again.


Jack, with Linda, the wonder navigator
2001 Monaco Dynasty Regent 40 ft./2 slide with 370 Cummins
2008 Honda CRV , Blue Ox tow gear
2 mangey cats and a Sheltie ( Buddy, Sam, & Smokey )
Done fulltiming, nut still traveling


Jim&Peg

Central Ohio

Senior Member

Joined: 07/14/2004

View Profile


Posted: 03/05/08 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It sounds like a ground fault in the 120v refrigerator heater. Unplug the refrigerator in the outside access and check to see if the GFI trips with it unplugged. If not, use an ohmmeter with the power off. On the plug going to the refrig, from the round ground prong the meter should read infinity to either flat blade. Any other reading indicates a ground fault - most likely the heater.

grinder

Courtenay, British Columbia

Senior Member

Joined: 05/31/2006

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 01:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm just listening in here and wondering,

Why would it work in a CG 30/50 svc and not at home on a 15/30/50 svc ??? Can understand that running on LPG will/would have no effect on the 110V side as it runs on only 12V DC. It sounds like to me that he has a problem in his home 110V system, not his MH system ??? Just wondering and listening.............

Ted
Courtenay, BC

chastho

arkansas

Senior Member

Joined: 07/27/2005

View Profile


Posted: 03/05/08 02:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

grinder wrote:

I'm just listening in here and wondering,

Why would it work in a CG 30/50 svc and not at home on a 15/30/50 svc ??? Can understand that running on LPG will/would have no effect on the 110V side as it runs on only 12V DC. It sounds like to me that he has a problem in his home 110V system, not his MH system ??? Just wondering and listening.............

Ted
Courtenay, BC
My thoughts also, if it was in the frig it would do it all of the time instead of just at home. It has to be in the wiring at home.

tallyo

Fort Myers,Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 06/12/2007

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 02:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Could there be something on the line at home that is drawing a lot of amps already???? So when he adds the refrigerator it pops?


Tallyo
2007 Winnebago Adventurer
W-24, 6 spd Allison
Saturn VUE w/ Brake Buddy Vantage
Drinks-6, Eats-4, Sleeps-2
Semper Fi


Mandalay Parr

Phoenix, AZ

Senior Member

Joined: 07/09/2004

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 02:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GFI's trip because of a ground fault, not an overload. When the Electrical Neutral and Ground are touching...that is a ground fault.

From the above, I suspect the electrical heating element in the frige is bad....not open, but shorted to ground.


Jerry Parr
Full-time
2005 Mandalay 40B
Cat C7 350, 4 Slides
Blue Ox, Brake Buddy
2004 CR-V Toad
602-321-8141

Maintcpo

Central California

Senior Member

Joined: 11/26/2004

View Profile


Posted: 03/05/08 02:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I believe I have seen this same scenario on RV.Net before. This is something to do with the GFI itself. Maybe try doing a search on GFI and you may find something. I would bet if I remember that a lot of home GFI breakers just dont work well with trailers. Personally I never had this problem and have since finally installed a 39Amp RV plug in my garage for the trailer. Good Luck!


Dan, Ret Navy CPO
Minnie The Wife Extraordinare
Chris Our Son the Genius
3 Dogs 1 Dumb , 1 Fat and Stubborn, and 1 new and Adorable
2005 Jazz 2550RL 5er
2003 Dodge Quad Cab Long Bed Cummins 6 shooter

bsinmich

Holland, MI

Senior Member

Joined: 11/18/2000

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 02:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I was Maintcpo I would have gone all the way to 40 amp. Why stop at 39?


2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Workhorse W22, & 2002 PT Cruiser w/Remco lube pump, Falcon 5250, & US Gear Unified Tow Brake

studmuffin

west central Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 02/13/2004

View Profile

Offline
Posted: 03/05/08 02:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the heater was shorted, why does it work plugged in at the camp ground?? And other appliances, plugged into the motorhome outlets, work fine.
The outlet behind the refrig, 110VAC, checks OK with a polarity checker.
If it is the heater element, I thought I would trip the campground GFI breaker???? Will keep checking, where can I disconnect the heater element, is it on the board on the back of the refrig???
Thanks, the Muffin Man.

Fiverwheel

Southern CA

Senior Member

Joined: 03/25/2003

View Profile

Online
Posted: 03/05/08 04:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Change out the GFCI at home. There is no reason to think something is wrong with the RV when home is the only place the problem surfaces.


"Blewbyou"
2002 26.5 MB Lazy Daze


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > Refrig. electrical problem??????
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class A Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2008 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS