Once or twice in the past, when somebody started a discussion thread asking about the weight of their tow vehicle, I’ve responded by suggesting they check the “shipping weight”, as listed on their Certificate of Origin or Invoice. I no longer think shipping weight is the best indicator of the truck’s actual weight. In the case of my truck, shipping weight understates actual weight by about 300 pounds.
When I bought the F-350 in my signature, I thought its dry weight was about 5703 pounds. Certificate of Origin and Invoice both listed shipping weight of 5799 pounds. I was told that 13 gallons of gas (listed on invoice) was included in shipping weight. So, if gasoline weighs about 7.4 pounds per gallon then, with an empty tank, the truck should weigh about 5703 pounds.
A month after buying the truck, but before adding any after-market stuff, I drove it to a compost site here in Fort Wayne (where the scale is reported to be fairly accurate). I was told “3.21 tons” (6420 pounds). Subtracting my weight, the weight of cargo, and the weight of the estimated amount of gas in the tank, I figured that the actual dry weight of the truck, as factory optioned, was about 5970 to 6010 pounds.
I just finished posting a response to a sticky thread over on the fifth wheel forum – the thread with the topic “What’s Your Real Weights? Truck and Trailer….” In the process of compiling all the data in my lengthy answer to that question, I noticed that the “Tire and Load Information” label on my truck states, “The combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 4088 pounds.” This would seem to imply that the actual weight of the truck, with a full tank of gas (29 gallons), is 6312 pounds (10,400 GVWR minus 4088 max load). Again, assuming gas weighs 7.4 lbs per gallon, then, based on this approach, my empty truck weighs 6097 pounds – nearly 400 pounds more than the “shipping weight” minus 13 gallons of fuel.
So, where’s the truth in all of this? Does my empty truck weigh about 5700 lbs, as derived from the shipping weight? Or does it weigh close to 6000 lbs, as derived from an actual weighing? Or does it weigh nearly 6100 lbs, as derived from the “tire and load info” label? I’m inclined to go with the results of my actual weigh-in; 5990 lbs (give or take 20 lbs).
The point of all of this is to suggest that a prospective truck buyer wanting to know its weight should probably ignore its shipping weight. Instead, simply subtract the “never exceed” (max load) weight on the “Tire and Load Info” label from the truck’s GVWR. That’ll give you a weight that includes a full tank of fuel, plus maybe a 100 lb “fudge factor”.
PS… This heavier-than-expected discovery doesn’t cause a big problem for me. I deliberately bought a one ton rather than a ¾ ton – to be sure I would have more than enough payload capacity for any of the fivers I was contemplating. As it turns out, the total weight on my truck’s axles (with fiver attached) is 9900 lbs, which is 500 under the truck’s 10,400 GVWR. I can run with that. I’m just disappointed that the truck weighs 300 lbs more than I was led to believe (using the shipping weight). If I ever want to add an in-the-bed auxiliary fuel tank to feed my V-10 gasser, I only have 500 lbs within GVWR instead of the approximate 800 lbs that I thought I would have. Not a big deal. If I do it, I’d just have to settle for a smaller tank.
2006 Ford F350 V10 2WD SRW SuperCab Short Bed
2005 Sunnybrook Titan 30RKFS Fifth Wheel
Well at least you are not writing in saying I just bought a 3/4 ton truck and the dealer said I could tow anything with it.
I hear that story about 6 times each month, and the truck owner feels bad when I tell them they should have read the towing guide ahead of time.
I am glad that you are happy with the V-10. I would not recomend adding another tank - but you should consider a below the bed tank. I replaced my rear 20 gallon tank with a 40 gallon tank that required relocating the spare tire.
With a gas engine, you would need to expand the vapor recovery system in order to add another tank. But new Federal guidlines state that 2005 and later gas vehicles can only lose 20 grams of fuel every 24 hours. If you add another tank, I don't think your truck could ever be sealed up that tightly again.
You could check with this website to see if they sell a kit for your model year truck. Transferflow.com
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche or Country Coach!
And do we know how the 10,400 GVWR value was computed and if so how valid it is? I wonder if we do not worry about weights well beyond that which is reasonable? GM for example does not say exceeding GVWR is dangerous but that it is not recommended.
Q: What is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)?
A:GVWR, when properly equipped, includes weight of vehicle, passengers, cargo, and equipment. Exceeding this weight is not recommended.
I posted last month that I weighed out my brand new F 250 4x4. With me, full fuel, 3 kids aged 2,4,7 and a 50 lb bag of sand in the bed it weighed 7780 lbs. Now if I take out the sand and add my wife, it will be about 7840.
________
2008 F 250 FX4 4WD, V10, 4.10 Tow Command
35' 2007 Crossroads Cruiser CT32SB
Wonderful Wife and 3 small kids
Thanks for posting, as it confirms that there is GREAT confusion on
this never ending topic....
Actually, if you think about it, the OEMs have no other choice, other
than to list the 'curb' as the basis for all.
Issue is that then their Sales/Marketing folks play games with it and
are aided by their legal departments.
Just think about the option mix that anyone can order and how much each
option then weighs.
Not every one orders 4x4, which can be hundreds of pounds added.
Not every one orders a diesel or big block or V10, which can be
hundreds of pounds added.
Not every one orders power windows, seats, door locks, which can add
a couple hundred pounds.
Ditto 2nd/3rd row seats on an SUV, which is a few hundred pounds.
Ditto Auto tranny, which is about 100 pounds.
Ditto upgrade interior, exterior, console (center and overhead).
The list is almost endless.
Then the after market stuff, like grill guards, bumper guards, spare
tire rack, roof rack, etc, etc.
The potential matrix of TV weights is almost endless, so they 'must'
use the base as the 'curb' (aka...stripper) as the basis for all ratings.
Over the years on this forum, all of the folks listing 'their curb'
has shown that it ranges all over the place.
Why when you take all of the OEM specifications and do the simple math,
it 'usually' works out that the 'curb' is the base with no options
and that the rest of the ratings are based on that 'curb' weight, plus
one 150Lb driver and fluids (some times only half full).
This is the reason recommend anyone asking about the metrics, to weigh
their setup axle by axle, both empty and fully loaded. Even then, many
are in denial and still refer to their 'curb' as the actual weight of
their TV.
My Suburban's specifications confirm this, as does all others that I've
helped check out.
Curb......5,400 lbs to 6,000 lbs depending which GM spec sheet you check
GVWR......8,600 lbs
FGAWR.....4,250 lbs
RGAWR.....6,000 lbs
MTWR.....10,000 lbs
GCWR.....16,000 lbs
Curb 6,000 + MTWR 10,000 = 16,000, which is the GCWR
BUT, mine weighs in at 7,400 lbs at the local garden supply, which
has the County Weights and Measure sticker of checked and assured
correct (as they derive revenue from that thing). I weigh about 180 lbs,
toolbox weighs about +200lbs, misc stuff weighs approx 50 lbs, to that
says my Suburban (with every order able option checked off) weighs in
around 7,000 lbs with out me or toolbox. A bit over the listed 'curb',
but it has 4x4, big block, 2nd/3rd row seats, power every thing, etc.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Of 8 trucks I have bought, and have manufacture listed as shipped wt, "ALL", this is correct "ALL" have been within 40 lbs of listed ship wt. Since most truck scales go in 20 lb increments.......I would say that is pretty good variance to me.
Not sure where the OPs 300 lbs came from. I can say, mine have been with in a margin I would call more than acceptable!
Marty
05 Chev CC D/A LS Dooley
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
00 Chev C2500, V5700, 4L80E, 4.10, base truck, no options!
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
3 Single axle utility trailers
To find the true empty weight, subtract the cargo capacity (located on the Tire and Loading Information sticker on the left rear door post) from the GVWR.
Look in the yellow pages for a cat scale or other equal scale at a "truck stop", these seem to have the ability to weigh ea individual tire. Some weigh stations on the side of the freeway, also have the ability to weigh an axel or axel combo, but not side to side. Also, so not go into a freeway weigh station unless closes or not busy!
If a trooper takes the $20 to weigh your rig with his jump scales, I believe he has the ability to get fired. A landscape contractors assoc I belong to, had a CVEO come in and talk about weight rules and laws we have to follow with LDT and mdt trucks, and he could not even let us buy him dinner at a dinner meeting as we do for outside speakers as a general rule of thumb. This is considered a bribe or equal per state laws, even if and when other speakers get the same treatment.
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