SweetLou
La Quinta, CA USA
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Joined: 06/03/2003
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I purchased a used very new 2007 5er and I wanted to know how you can lubricate the your dump valves. The trailer that we purchased is relatively new, and the previous owners full timed and the unit was not traveling that much. The dump valves were always in the open position so I think they don't slide open and close very well especially the black water valve. If anyone has a trick with out getting dirty it would be nice.
These were very nice people with zero RV experience an zero full timing experience. They traded in a brand new 2007 after 5 months because they want a bigger unit. Their loss and my gain! The valves are tight in opening and closing especially the black water. We have taken the trailer out now for 2 trips and each trip when I am all finished dumping the tanks and flushing the black water tank, pieces of grit, chunks, shavings, however you want to describe it are in the hose trap connection and inside the hose when I go to wash that out. Must be dried feces and paper so now what do I do? I have the trailer home today so I can do some things before going back to storage. I always store my trailers with some water in the tanks and tank chemical to prevent drying out of gaskets and seals. Should I fill the black water tank with more water and let it sit until my next trip which will be in 1 month?
2005 3500 Cummins HO Quadcab 4x2 3.73 6 spd man, 2007 HitchHiker Discover America 329 RSB
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webhannet
Southern Coastal Maine
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Joined: 08/09/2004
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I tried all the different types of tank additives, and I finally found what works - put white lithium grease on the handle shaft and push in and out several times. Since I did this, the valves are very easy to work. I suppose "cocoanut oil" may have some effect on the blades and rubber seals, but those don't seem to be what was dragging.
I don't recommmend storing with ANYTHING in the tanks, and I don't feel the seals will dry-out. The chemicals lose effectiveness over time.
If you have an stubborn accumulation in the tank, fill it with water and add the biggest bottle of additive/cleaner. Let it sit overnight, drive around for a while - then dump.
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Southwind85
Where I Park
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Joined: 01/31/2007
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Dump the tanks then use silicone spray on the valves. Don't be stingy with the silicone either. Spray like crazy and slide the valves open/closed while doing so. It'll turn a 2 handed block and tackle open / sledge hammer close routine into a one finger slide that you'll think the valves will slide open on their own. (They won't but the difference between before and after will make you think that)
The black tank valve should always be closed until you dump. Fill the tank to about 3/4 or more then dump the tank. Leaving the valve closed or dumping too early allows the liquid to run off and leave the solids behind to turn into concrete. The water mass is needed to push the crud out.
Dried out stuff in the tank? I'm not sure really since I haven't had to deal with that situation. Water in the tank and something to help break down the poo pile (others here should know what works best) Also dumping ice in the black tank before traveling should help break the solids down.
Look up Geo Method on this site. I've been using that along with back flushing the tank and shoving a hose down the pooper occasionally for 1.5 years of full timing with no problem. A friend of mine has been doing that for 7 years now with the same results.
The Good Life
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Camp, Forrest, Camp!
Boise, ID
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Joined: 10/28/2002
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I've had good luck with the valve lubricant that you just pour in the tank. I add it whenever the valves get stiff which is probably about once a year.
I'm not sure the spray techniques would work for me because there are a lot of bends in the pipes before it gets to the outlet.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW. 7.4L, Auto, 1985 Lance 900, 1988 Four Winns 210 Horizon
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust, Hypertech.
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Chuck&Gail
In the Colorado Mountains
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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I use peanut oil in tank as a lube. When valves get stiff, I fog lots of silicon spray up the pipe while operating valve, works just great. I do that at least once a year.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Lovely German Shepherd.
1999 Mercedes ML320 TV
2003 Wanderer 187TB Toybox (3620# UVW, 4800# loaded)
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 4 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories.
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going
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eieioh
Hillsboro, Ohio
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Joined: 01/20/2008
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New poster with similiar problem.
Ok, I'll try some of your tricks. That should help take some of the stiffness out of the operation. My real problem is the grey water tank valve leaks constantly. I'm afraid there is something, potato peel or similiar, stuck in the seat. I had to replace the cable because I pushed the sheath off of the choke rod trying to get the little thing closed.
anyone have any suggestions for getting the whatever it is out of the seal?
Thanks!
ed
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Roger Watts
SD
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Joined: 02/27/2006
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I had the same problem with my 07 fiver, I finally unbolted the valves pulled them out and low and behold here was a 15 in. piece of red water line that was put in the black tank at the factory. Nice huh!
Replaced the valves and put electric motors on the dumps. Works great!
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bigdaddy & littlemama
Carthage, TN
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Joined: 07/03/2001
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Drill and tap a small hole in the section where the blade stores in the open position. Oil the blade in the open position. Then put a small screw in the taped hole to prevent any leaks. Try this if white grease does not work on the shaft. I have found that the white grease on the shaft works for me.
bigdaddy & littlemama and "Miss Lucy & Chucky"
'02 Allegro Bay 35DB W22
"07 X Unlimited Wrangler
'05 Harley Trike
Our other coach is a school bus(yes, we both drive)
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Dr Quick
M'boron, Tn
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Joined: 08/25/2004
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On an older trailer with the same problem I found out that it was the shaft of the valve that caused them to stick. I had tried all kinds of different lubricants on the seal and valve, but they did not help. I got some plumbers "water proof grease" and put it on the shaft and presto, they worked fine after that.
Dr quick
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RLS7201
Gladstone, MO
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Joined: 10/26/2002
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Grease zerks in the side of the valves works for me. No the grease does NOT hurt the neoprene seals.
I've been doing this for several years, with no problems.
Richard & Michêle Shields
Northland Good Sams
1995 Bounder
32H F53
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Retired and traveling on your hard earned SS $$. Thanks for your support.
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