erobinson1
Bainbridge,Ga.
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Joined: 08/25/2005
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Last week while hitching up and raising the landing gear I noticed the motor sounded like it could barely run. I thought maybe the battery had gotten low. I checked the battery and it was fully charged but motor still sounded weak. Could the electric motor already need brushes? It's only a 2003 model and electric motor brushes should last thousands of ups and downs. Should I pull the motor off and check it or let it go? It still lifts fine just sounds like it's running off a low battery. Thanks.
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fpresto
Maryland
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Joined: 08/01/2007
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How did you check the battery? Voltage tells you very little. A quick way to check the motor is to run jumper cables from your tow vehicle straight to the motor. That eliminates a weak battery, corroded wires, etc.
USN Retired
2007 Cedar Creek 30 RLSTS
2008 F350, DRW, V-10, B&W hitch,
Pressure Pro, JT Strongarms
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marvmarcy
Polson, MT, USA
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Joined: 04/19/2003
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I replaced one motor on a rear stabilizer 18 months ago, and now the other motor is sounding just like the first - running slow. When I dismantled the first motor, I found the brushes had almost disintegrated. The armature was also shorted, which likely caused the brush failure. I had to buy a replacement motor from a dealer because Newmar and the jack manufacturer would not sell direct. It cost about $200 for the motor. It was easy to remove and replace.
Marv
2001 Volvo VNL42T420, ISX450/1650, super 10sp w/GearMaster
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire 38RLRK
Piaggio MP3 400 scooter
RVing since 1979 - Fulltime since 2000 (mostly CO, MT, NC & Key West)
Retired USAF
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erobinson1
Bainbridge,Ga.
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I load tested the battery. It's less than 1 year old too. I guess I can pull the motor off and check the brushes.
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fpresto
Maryland
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Pulling the motor to check the brushes is probably a good thing. If it were me I would still test the motor with a set of jumper cables directly. I have seen many issues like yours caused by a little corrosion on a connection especially the ground side. It will allow the voltage through so it reads normal but breaks down under the load and can't draw the full amount of current. Good Luck.
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erobinson1
Bainbridge,Ga.
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Okay. I pulled the armature cap and checked the brushes. They're in perfect condition, like new. Put motor back together and did the jumper cable trick. Motor sounded just like it did on battery. I'm checking atwoods web site now for troubleshooting info. Any other help would be greatly appreciated. Ed
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erobinson1
Bainbridge,Ga.
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Atwood's site was no help. I guess I'll just run it til it quits then worry about replacing it. Thanks.
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Darrell
Somewhere in the US
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Joined: 02/25/2001
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Run a new temporary ground and see if that helps.
Darrell
PEACEFUL PATTON
"In His Grip"
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"FULL-TIMING & LOVING IT"
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erobinson1
Bainbridge,Ga.
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Figured it out guys. It was the battery. The old load tester I had was apparently 3/4 crap. Last nite after fooling with the motor til dark, I went into the camper and hit the switch for one of the 12v lights. Seemed awfully dim. Turned on another in the bedroom and it barely came on! Took the battery today to Advamce Auto and let them run a test on it. It was bad. Bought a new batt and installed. Landing gear runs like a new one. I guess you should never take anything for granted. I should have plugged into shore power and see how it ran before tearing the motor apart. One less job on the list before heading out Saturday. Thanks.
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