I just brought a brand new trailer, and the jack broke as I lifted off my truck for the first time. Unfortunately, the dealership is 3 hours away. I have a 2005 Tundra, and the trailer is a Fun Finder 240.
The dealership set the tounge jack on 4" of block to hitch the trailer up, but they recommended I use a 8" block. At any rate, I brought the trailer home, and started to lift the trailer using a 6" block. I was concerned about lifting the jack too high, so I added another 2" (8" in all). I started to lift the trailer back up, and then I felt some slippage in the jack. At that point the trailer would no longer lift. I removed the cover of the jack to find one of the gears had stripped.
I used 4" more inches of block than the dealership, yet the jack broke during the first time I used it. The difference might be is the surface at my house is on a slight incline, but it was flat at the dealership. Therefore, there's more weight on the front of the trailer at my house.
I called the dealership, and they claimed that the blocks were too high. He contributes that towards breaking the jack. He also states that the situation is unsafe. He said I shouldn't use more than 4" of block. He also said I probably need a drop down shank installed on my truck. If that really is the case, I have no idea why they didn't install one to begin with. Incidentally, Cruiser RV says I'm covered under warranty, but I don't want to have any more problems. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Are there limitations to consider when blocks are used to jack up a trailer? Note, the blocks used have plenty of width (about 16" by 16").
Is there a problem parking a trailer on an incline? I wouldn't think it would be as long as the trailer is secure. It's not as if trailer parks are level. Incidentally, I always ensure the tires are chocked before messing with the hitch.
Should I invest in a different jack?
I appreciate any input you can provide.
Thank you............................
* This post was
edited 03/24/08 05:00pm by ANTHONYROLLIN *
plumber1 wrote: BARKER VIP 3500# from RadAuto on e-bay, delivered to my door, $214.38. Made in USA.
Good luck, Steve
I agree with the Barker had one on three different units and it is still working!
2001 F 350 CC PSD 373 rear,auto
RBW X16 slider,Bedsaver,Prodigy,Fold A Cover,Pressure Pro!
2004 Crossroads Paradise Point PF33Rl 5th wheel Fibreglass and all the goodies necessary,Dish,comfy loungers,and a nickel to spend,
Mr & Mrs and the PUP.
Sound like the dealer is giving you the run-around. They should replace the tongue jack under warranty. That being said, many OEM tongue jacks are of poor quality. We can hardly rotate the jack handle on our new Surveyor. I'm replacing the jack with a 5,000 pound manaual jack from Northen Tool. Only $30 and highly rated by purchasers. For $30, I wasn't even going to mess with the dealer about replacing the jack. It would cost me more than that in gas.
Bob, Wendy,& Spanky the Fox Terrier
F150 FX4 5.4L 3.73's
Surveyor 235RKS
Reese Straight Line
Prodigy
The dealer should replace your jack in my opinion.
The only way that I can imagine the blocks being a problem is if you jack the wheels of the trailer off the ground and put the full weight of the trailer on the jack. Or, if you did not unhook the trailer from the truck and tried to jack up the truck. That might occur if the tongue was hung on the ball due to the incline. If either of those things happened you overloaded the jack.
Either case, I would replace the jack with an electric jack if I had to buy anything. You will eventually want to do that anyway sooner or later.
Thanks for your input everyone. I agree that the dealer may be giving me the run around. As far as their so-called block limitations go, I drove around the niehborhood and noticed everyone had their jacks propped anywhere from a 2-16 inches high, and often times they were just 2x4's stacked on top of one anther.
I didn't realize how inexpensive the manual jacks were, and it appears all that's involved is removing 3 bolts. I think I'll just buy a heavier manual jack, and call it good.
* This post was
edited 03/25/08 09:47am by ANTHONYROLLIN *
I broke a jack, but it was because I had my rear stabilizers down. It was not hard to break. Lots of leverage in those crank handles. I was happy the gears striped. Can only imagine the damage I could have done to the trailer if I had pretzeled it.
I had my jack break the pin in the head, twice! but I believe it was from the 1200lb tongue weight and lifting the back of the X also to hook up the WD bars. that is solved this year because I got a power tongu jack!!!
As far as limiting the height of blocks. I guess he has never been to a campground with unlevel sites. the block height had nothing to do with this failure, just cheap parts.
Wife kim
Son brandon 6yrs
Daughter marissa 5yrs
Dog shadow
07 Cherokee 32B
02 Excursion 4X4 V-10 4.30 gear
Reese HP dualcam,Prodigy brake controller,
Air lift air bags.
Better to have a bad day of
camping than a good day at work!
I'm curious, why are the power jacks so popular? I realize they're a convenience, but can they handle more weight?
A manual jack doesn't bother me. You have to understand, I just sold a tent trailer that I've had for 13 years. Lifting that thing took A LOT more stamina than a trailer jack.
I'd think a manual jack would be more reliable, and of course they're a lot cheaper. Then again, it doesn't say much for a manual jack when it breaks the first time it's used, like mine did.
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