Bigburd

Tennessee

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Joined: 12/07/2006

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One problem everyone overlooked. I have had the cord get stuck / twisted and refused to come out. Had to disassemble the cabinet and fish out. No fun. Seems like a good idea to me. Also, Bad people can come by your camper in storage / driveway and borrow the copper.
07' Ford F-250 SD 6.0L
08' Keystone Sprinter 250 RBS
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Bumpyroad

Virginia

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Joined: 12/01/2005

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vermilye wrote: Actually, because the "twist locking" helps keep the blades clean, the failure point will be the screws connecting the wires inside the connectors becoming loose, not corrosion of the blades. Adding an inlet will give you 2 more sets of connections that need to be checked.
Another advantage of using inlets - owners of 50 amp RVs can make up a 30 amp cord for use when 50 amp is not available; a lot lighter cord to handle...
I would think that this would be equally doable with a hard wired cord, just plug your converter into it or cut it off at a few feet in length and use which ever cord to go from there to campground outlet.
bumpy
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camperfool

Michigan

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Joined: 10/15/2006

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Ok. I have heard the pros and cons of power conversion kit. So maybe the best thing is to just leave it coiled up in the box and plug another cord into the end of the coiled up cord. Thats alot of extra electrical cord not necessary......
* This post was
edited 03/28/08 06:15pm by camperfool *
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Bobbo

Memphis, TN

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Joined: 09/16/2007

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camperfool wrote: Ok. I have heard the pros and cons of power conversion kit. So maybe the best thing is to just leave it coiled up in the box and plug another cord into the end of the coiled up cord. Thats alot of extra electrical cord not necessary......
There have been at least a couple of posts about cutting the cord off about 2 feet long and adding a male plug. Then adding a female socket to the end of the longer piece. That would eliminate the extra electrical cord. It would let you keep the bulk of the cord in a larger basement area. It would let you keep the connection between the two inside the electrical compartment, out of the weather. It would unclutter the electrical compartment.
I am seriously considering doing this myself.
Bobbo, Linda and the furry kid (German Shepherd)
'07 Winnebago Outlook 31C on a Ford E450 Super Duty Chassis
Near N35 12 17 W89 50 57
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Bumpyroad

Virginia

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Bobbo wrote: camperfool wrote: Ok. I have heard the pros and cons of power conversion kit. So maybe the best thing is to just leave it coiled up in the box and plug another cord into the end of the coiled up cord. Thats alot of extra electrical cord not necessary......
There have been at least a couple of posts about cutting the cord off about 2 feet long and adding a male plug. Then adding a female socket to the end of the longer piece. That would eliminate the extra electrical cord. It would let you keep the bulk of the cord in a larger basement area. It would let you keep the connection between the two inside the electrical compartment, out of the weather. It would unclutter the electrical compartment.
I am seriously considering doing this myself.
and also provide an excellent place to hook in and store the surge protector.
bumpy
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oh boy

winnipeg,manitoba,canada

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Joined: 07/01/2003

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If your dealing with 30 amp a friend re did his. He bought a 45.00 30 amp standard inlet box and a female twist lock plug from CW. His cord was connected inside the rear to a junction box.
He undid the box and twist marettes and wired the female plug to this cord so now he had a detachable cord. He cut a round hole wired the inlet box to it and used some 24 inches of 10-3 wire to get it to the junction box. The plug box contacts are marked as are the wires in the box. Took all of 1/2 hour to do.
Ian/Mary/Rusty
wire fox terror
03 Dodge Ram 3500,4x4,QC,
LineX,Hijacker 16Kslider,
06 Titanium 32E37TS
33' C&C sloop
Paid to stay home
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