Bobbo
Memphis, TN
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Joined: 09/16/2007
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I have considered shortening my shore cord from 25' to 2' then using a 25' extension cord to reach the pedestal. There would be no stuffing of stiff cords into the small compartment during a downpour, and the extension cord would fit easily in a larger basement compartment. I have not yet decided to do this.
Bobbo, Linda and the furry kids (2 German Shepherds)
'07 Winnebago Outlook 31C on a Ford E450 Super Duty Chassis
Near N35 12 17 W89 50 57
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FulltimeDreamer
Cumming, Georgia, USA
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Joined: 01/29/2004
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I installed the 30 Amp RV Power Cord conversion kit on my coach and have been very happy with it. I did not use the supplied junction box as one was already in the coach.
Here is a link to my installation pics:
http://www.geocities.com/fulltimedreamer2004/Shr_pwr_upgr1.html
Lamar and Debbie
2003 F250 SuperCrew 7.3 PSD
Mountaineer by Montana
lamarfoster@adelphia.net
Can't wait to fulltime!! 
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Bumpyroad
Virginia
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Joined: 12/01/2005
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jenks60 wrote:CLICK LINK
Personally, I see no need for it, but some may. We have no problem with our cord at CGs.
agreed
I have this type of arrangement on my current MH. I muchly preferred the old hard wire set up in my previous ones where the cord came out of a compartment. I fixed up a shorter cord which I run into a compartment where I have my surge protector then hook a standard cord from there.
bumpy
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djevans
Tennessee
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Joined: 03/24/2002
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Our 50 amp power cord is on a "twist lock" and I think we have disconnected it one time in the middle of winter. I wouldn't add it. I actually didn't even know we had it for quite some time. I happened to see it one day while looking for something else. Unless you have a specific need, I wouldn't bother. (especially with ours inside the same compartment)
I suppose the only real thing might be, that if we ever need to replace the power cord, it will be very easy to change it.
Don . . . near 36.171N 086.784W, TN near here
WA4ZFN
2003 Fleetwood Revolution 40C - Saturn VUE
350hp Cummins ISC
- - - P i c t u r e s - - -
I'm confused, WAIT! Maybe I'm not!
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BurbMan
Long Island, NY
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Joined: 09/20/2001
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I have made this mod on my 02 Sunnybrook TT and now the 08 Terry TT. I think it's great for a couple of reasons...first off, you seal up that "mouse hole" in the side of the TT. Some folks have had issues with ants and rodents using the cord as a gangplank into the rig. Second, I always managed to scrape my finger on that plastic cover when stuffing the cord back into that hole. What a mess when it's cold and the cord won't bend or it's raining and the cord is wet.
Lastly, the cord coiled up inside a cabinet and took up a lot of space. Now I can just disconnect and put the cord in outside storage with the water hose. Much simpler for me. I didn't neeed that junction box on my installation, but you may depending on how the rig is wired. The instructions that come with it are pretty clear. Marinco is #1 name in Marine shore power connections, and has brought their locking weathertight connectors to the RV world.
Here's where I got my kit, a LOT cheaper than Camping World. Click the picture for the website:
Here it is on the old Sunnybrook:
And here it is on the new Terry:
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beemerphile1
NE Ohio
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Joined: 04/20/2007
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My shore power cord was inside a very small cabinet with an outside door so my fix was easy. The genset plug is also inside the cabinet plus the 12v fuses and 120v breakers. It was a nuisance stuffing that cord in and pulling it out.
Here is what I did. I cut the existing cord inside the cabinet with enough length to plug into the genset. I then installed a male cord end on the part remaining attached and a female end on the unattached cord. Now I store the cord separately plugging it in when needed. Total cost about $20 for the two cord ends. When connected the new ends are inside the cabinet and protected from the weather.
Tim
"Probably, no nation is rich enough to pay for both war and civilization. We must make our choice; we cannot have both." Abraham Flexner
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900
1998 Ford E150 4.6L
1996 BMW R1100GS
2005 Trek Madone 9spd.
1995 Burley tandem
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nbounder
Arizona mountains
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Joined: 11/26/2006
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There's also another piece to this. The more 'plug-in' connections, the greater the chance of oxidized contacts causing all sorts of pandemonium. Looking at the pix, GOLDEN HVAC hit it right with the cord pulling the socket down. Add that to the oxidized contacts, and there's great reason to have the umbilicus hard wired to the coach. Always a good idea to re-tighten the wire nuts at the entry box occasionally, (with cord unplugged!)
Joe
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Bumpyroad
Virginia
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Joined: 12/01/2005
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nbounder wrote:There's also another piece to this. The more 'plug-in' connections, the greater the chance of oxidized contacts causing all sorts of pandemonium. Looking at the pix, GOLDEN HVAC hit it right with the cord pulling the socket down. Add that to the oxidized contacts, and there's great reason to have the umbilicus hard wired to the coach. Always a good idea to re-tighten the wire nuts at the entry box occasionally, (with cord unplugged!)
Joe
is this really a potential problem with the twist lock connectors??
bumpy
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djevans
Tennessee
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Joined: 03/24/2002
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bumpy, "no." I'd say he's generalizing. These are typically VERY well built connectors. I've never seen a 50 amp twist lock of the type we use, with corrosion unless damaged or improperly mounted. BUT, one would essentially be introducing a possible failure point. "potential problem?" Well I guess, just 'cause it's there.
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vermilye
Oswego, NY, USA
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Joined: 08/11/2004
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Actually, because the "twist locking" helps keep the blades clean, the failure point will be the screws connecting the wires inside the connectors becoming loose, not corrosion of the blades. Adding an inlet will give you 2 more sets of connections that need to be checked.
Another advantage of using inlets - owners of 50 amp RVs can make up a 30 amp cord for use when 50 amp is not available; a lot lighter cord to handle...
Jon Vermilye Travel & Photo Web Pages ... My Collection of RV Blogs & Journals
Lake McDonald, Glacier National Park, MT
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