It can be fixed but at 17 years old is it worth it. I do a/c service and have done the deed. from new compressor to recover and recharge. My working labor rate is $120.00, but doubles on sunday. If I work 4 hours figure $500.00. A new a/c has all new motors and parts has at least one year warranty. I may fix the old only to have another part shut it down soon after. With that said anything broken can be repaired. You say your compressor cycles and blows hot air. you have told me that the major parts want to work. there are many reason for the compressor to cycle. cool weather, low air flow, high amperage to name a few. Could it be low on freon? Sure, yes, is freon has a cost but you need very little. Now the question is where did it go? Can the leak be fixed? sure, but time is money. You have told me that the major parts work, it now drops to problem solving. Again time is money. Next we fight location, few techs want to risk working on an RV roof in the middle of no-where. I think your service guy is taking the easy way out. Find a guy you trust it could be the guy at your office that does the Hvac work or his contractor. Talk to him, get the rig to a place he knows and has the parts and tools to do the work. let him spend 1 hour looking for the problem. Volts and amps tell big stories real fast. Most repair services are not intrested in repair, the money is in replace. 4 wires 1/2 tube of sealant 8 bolts and no worries for $2000.00. beats 2 hours $240.00 and a call back any day to a company. Those 39.95 service companys are not what you want.Most repairmen get 50% of the sale of parts. You want a repairman that tells you right up front hourly cost with travel portal to portal and moves forward keeping you aware of the parts cost and situation. Given a choice go union we get an hourly rate only and should be the best trained in the industry. But just my opinion.
cmartin, thank you for insider info. I have a spare unknown ac in the garage I bought for $100, I'm going to rig 110 to it tomorrow and see if she blows cold. Otherwise I'll fill the hole with a vent. The trailer is too old and small to put $500+ into. Maybe even a 5-6000 BTU window unit in the front of the trailer for $100. Def. not a new replacement, I'm not giving them the profit....I'll never get it back.
She goes really REALLY FAST
2002 Rexair 40' DP Cummins 400HP with Banks
Suzuki GS 290HP Top Gas Dragbike, 0-180mph in 7.5 seconds
Suzuki GS 230HP Bracket Dragbike, 0-150mph in 8.5 seconds
Enclosed race trailer, A/C, gen, compressor, mini-shop
A good servive company can tell you weather it is low on freon or not with out tapping a valve into the system. A simple amp draw reading from the unit and compare it to the plate reading.
I don't care how old it is, if it's a low charge, your service company should offer you the option of repair. Because it can be done and it is done very simply.
On any job that is a RV roof top or basement unit, we have a procedure. First, we determine weather all other components are in good shape, if so, we proform a leak test. If it passes, we can present the customer with an estimate for repair.
Now, you should know that our company is not union and have been in busisness 30 years and we mostly do commercial refrigeration, RV's Specialists, heating & air conditioning. We also manufacture custom refrigeration equipment.
A Rv service call with a diagnosis of low on freon will go as follows.
1 clean the suction line close to the compressor, install a service valve port, start up unit, fill system to ambiant charge chart for the gas used. put back together and final test. All less then a hour.
total.. 1 hr labor at 109.25 daily rate, OT is time and a half.
1 service valve at 27.00
1 lb of R-22 gas at 39.00 lb
most RV A/C's hold between 1 and 2 lbs of gas.
For less the $200, your fixed
Good Luck
Nick-
MCI 102C3 40' 2006' Bus Conversion by Atlantic Custom Coach
Detroit 475hp 8V92t w/Allison Ht750 auto
Master Mason, Cannon Lodge #104 S. Seaville N.J.
FMCA# F-27317-S
The old units were sealed and used R-12, R-12 is no longer made and is slightly more expensive than gold on the open market.. If you have some cans of R-12 you are RICH, and I mean RICH.
Newwer units use a different R (IE: 134A) which is still being made,, NOTE. That number is an example and may well NOT be what is in the unit)
So, yes, he's right. Less expensive to drop in a new one.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
wa8yxm wrote: The old units were sealed and used R-12, R-12 is no longer made and is slightly more expensive than gold on the open market.. If you have some cans of R-12 you are RICH, and I mean RICH.
Newwer units use a different R (IE: 134A) which is still being made,, NOTE. That number is an example and may well NOT be what is in the unit)
So, yes, he's right. Less expensive to drop in a new one.
RV roof and basement units have been R-22 since the 60's.
I doubt anybody would have a unit that old...
The RV industry is now transforming to R 410A refrigerant.
They never really perfected R 134A in RV units.
wa8yxm wrote: The old units were sealed and used R-12, R-12 is no longer made and is slightly more expensive than gold on the open market.. If you have some cans of R-12 you are RICH, and I mean RICH.
Newwer units use a different R (IE: 134A) which is still being made,, NOTE. That number is an example and may well NOT be what is in the unit)
So, yes, he's right. Less expensive to drop in a new one.
u can still buy the r 22 infact my stick home still uses it,, and also the saddle taps are still availible ,, i have atleast 5 on my service trucks now ,, and the wholesale dealer i deal with have lots and lots ,, it is serviceable ,, but u do have to way the cost ,, as others have posted ,, JMO
wa8yxm wrote: The old units were sealed and used R-12, R-12 is no longer made and is slightly more expensive than gold on the open market.. If you have some cans of R-12 you are RICH, and I mean RICH.
Newwer units use a different R (IE: 134A) which is still being made,, NOTE. That number is an example and may well NOT be what is in the unit)
So, yes, he's right. Less expensive to drop in a new one.
This is correct for a dash-air but roof-airs always have been and still are R-22. It will change in a year or so when R-22 is phased out but until then all RV roof-airs are using R-22.
Steve
2007 Springdale 291RKL
2003 F150 King Ranch
2001 Dodge Van w/Wheelchair Ramp
1991 Palomino Mustang PUP
Eureka Timberline Tent
Yamaha IF2400isc
Yamaha EF3000iSEBC "Politically Incorrect And Proud Of It"
Next step =
Start the unit up and feel the top of the compressor IF y'all sure it's running. IF it's hot, y'all can be pretty sure that it's short of freon. Reason being, there is no return of refrigerant to cool the compressor windings. UNION trained, 30 + years in the trade working on mickey mouse units to 1000 + ton chillers and every thing in between. If it can happen, it happened to me !!! Feeling the "FAT" line aka (suction )(return ) should be cool and moist(sweaty) to the touch. As previously stated an amp probe will also tell the story. Low amps means compressor motor not doing any work because of low freon. Or, it could have a cracked or broken suction reed causing the hot gas to blow back to the low side. Get the service tech outside of a Donut shop or seven eleven. It'll save y'all a headache. No disservice to a non union shop meant.
Offline
