Also, r-22 will NOT be phased out for quite awhile.
Phaseout Schedule for HCFCs Including R-22
Under the terms of the Montreal Protocol, the U.S. agreed to meet certain obligations by specific dates that will affect the residential heat pump and air-conditioning industry:
January 1, 2004:
In accordance with the terms of the Montreal Protocol, the amount of all HCFCs that can be produced nationwide must be reduced by 35% by 2004. In order to achieve this goal, the U.S. is ceasing production of HCFC-141b, the most ozone-damaging of this class of chemicals, on January 1, 2003. This production ban will greatly reduce nationwide use of HCFCs as a group, making it likely that the 2004 deadline will have a minimal effect on R-22 supplies.
January 1, 2010:
After 2010, chemical manufacturers may still produce R-22 to service existing equipment, but not for use in new equipment. As a result, heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) system manufacturers will only be able to use pre-existing supplies of R-22 to produce new air conditioners and heat pumps. These existing supplies would include R-22 recovered from existing equipment and recycled.
January 1, 2020:
Use of existing refrigerant, including refrigerant that has been recovered and recycled, will be allowed beyond 2020 to service existing systems, but chemical manufacturers will no longer be able to produce R-22 to service existing air conditioners and heat pumps.
Make sure the compressor is really running and not just humming. If it is really running, then you are probably out of luck. If it is just humming and capacitors are swelled up, smack the compressor with a mallet. Once in a while when the compressor sits for a really long time, the compressor may have trouble starting. Smacking it with a hammer may free it up and get it to start running again. The professional way is to use a larger start capacitor to break it loose, but the layman's method has also been known to work.
Well I talked to the mechanic again and he's really negative about it and wanted to brag about how long he's been in the RV business. The compressor was cycling on and off, so there is gas in it, but he said putting in a saddle valve and adding a pound of gas is a "clusterf***" as he put it. I suggested I don't have a lot of $600 bills lying around. He said I'd spend $300 fixing it, and it "might" work. I'm going to take it out and put in a vent. I feel like the guy just doesn't want the work.
She goes really REALLY FAST
2002 Rexair 40' DP Cummins 400HP with Banks
Suzuki GS 290HP Top Gas Dragbike, 0-180mph in 7.5 seconds
Suzuki GS 230HP Bracket Dragbike, 0-150mph in 8.5 seconds
Enclosed race trailer, A/C, gen, compressor, mini-shop
keywestrv wrote: Well I talked to the mechanic again and he's really negative about it and wanted to brag about how long he's been in the RV business. The compressor was cycling on and off, so there is gas in it, but he said putting in a saddle valve and adding a pound of gas is a "clusterf***" as he put it. I suggested I don't have a lot of $600 bills lying around. He said I'd spend $300 fixing it, and it "might" work. I'm going to take it out and put in a vent. I feel like the guy just doesn't want the work.
Use a different mechanic....
Nick-
MCI 102C3 40' 2006' Bus Conversion by Atlantic Custom Coach
Detroit 475hp 8V92t w/Allison Ht750 auto
Master Mason, Cannon Lodge #104 S. Seaville N.J.
FMCA# F-27317-S
I work at a wholesale refrigeration house and we sell clamp-on and solder-on access valves by the hundreds per week so obviously there are competent mechanics that are using and installing access valves for the purpose for which they are intended.
My suggestion would also be to find another mechanic that needs the work.
Steve
2007 Springdale 291RKL
2003 F150 King Ranch
2001 Dodge Van w/Wheelchair Ramp
1991 Palomino Mustang PUP
Eureka Timberline Tent
Yamaha IF2400isc
Yamaha EF3000iSEBC "Politically Incorrect And Proud Of It"
keywestrv wrote: Well I talked to the mechanic again and he's really negative about it and wanted to brag about how long he's been in the RV business. The compressor was cycling on and off, so there is gas in it, but he said putting in a saddle valve and adding a pound of gas is a "clusterf***" as he put it. I suggested I don't have a lot of $600 bills lying around. He said I'd spend $300 fixing it, and it "might" work. I'm going to take it out and put in a vent. I feel like the guy just doesn't want the work.
If the compressor is cycling On/OFF, then the charge is irrelevant. If you had NO freon or low freon, then the compressor would run all the time. There IS NO low refrigerant pressure switch on a RV Roof AC unit. My concern would be, WHAT is causing the short cycle of the compressor. From the age you stated (17 years) the odds are the Compressor overload is causing the On/Off cycle. If this is the case, then the compressor is bad and the unit (17 years) is NOT economically feasible to R&R the compressor. Even if I owned the unit and can do it myself, at my cost the price of a compressor is NOT worth the age of the unit. It is better to replace the upper unit. Asd to why the compressor is bad, may be that you do have a loss of all the freon and running "Dry" has burnt up the compressor. Line taps are a NO NO. Competant RV repair people do not use them other than to tap the system to check for a leak. Once the leak is found you evacuate the system and then solder a standard schrader valve on the lines ( Hi and Low) and then use those to vacumm and recharge the system. Line taps as a permanent attachment just cause leaks down then line. The copper slowly collapses and the line tap seals then leak. Doug
I think the guy is doing you a tremendous favor. He could easily do what you want, charge you a few hundred dollars and then replace the unit in a few months when it fails if it works at all. As has already been posted no competent repair person would use the taps other than to try and find the leak which will do little good because in all likelihood your compressor is shot. I think you have been lucky enough to find a honest mechanic.
USN Retired
2007 Cedar Creek 30 RLSTS
2008 F350, DRW, V-10, B&W hitch,
Pressure Pro, JT Strongarms
keywestrv wrote: I never mentioned 17 years old. The trailer is a 2000 so it's at least that young.
Sorry, CMartin7143 said 17 years and I thought that was your post. Regardless, your unit is at least 8 years old and still not worth repairing. BTW, Dometic/RVP all will replace a complete unit under warranty if there is ANY leak in the sealed system. They have determined, it cost more to repair than it is to replace the upper unit. Doug
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