I agree the tie rod ends, control arms, and possibly the wheel bearing, may need replacement. The best bet is to take it to the truck shop, that specializes in suspension work, and have it checked by professionals. It takes 20 minutes once on the rack to determine what the problem(s)are. P-30's if not maintained wear out components that control steering. It usually can be avoided if the unit has had the chassis greased every 5,000 miles, and the tightness checked on the control arms. Shocks and spring too can make the handling better if replaced. The proper inflation of tires will also make a big difference, as to much air causes excessive bouncing if springs and shocks are week. Once fixed to factory specs they ride straight and smooth. Still it's a truck chassis so don't expect it to ride like a dedicated high end motorhome. Good luck!
I also had a P30 and it handled just fine, here is my advice:
First thing to do is inflate the tires to the pressures listed on the placard behind the driver's station. Also inflate the front air bags, if you have them, to 90psi. Believe me these two things make a big difference.
Second find a good alignment shop that will check ride height and the condition of suspension/steering components, also adjust the play/drag on the steering box and the wheel bearings. A four wheel alignment will verify rear axle alignment. Having enough front toe-in really helps reduce wandering.
There is a lot of aftermarket stuff for P30s and most of it isn't needed, my priority would be to upgrade the shocks to Koni or Bilstein and add a Henderson Supersteer rear stabilizer bar. If the alignment shop identifies component that are worn and need replacement consider the Henderson Supersteer bell crank and the Bilstein Steering Stabilizer. If ride height is off go with the Henderson Supersteer chassis tuned springs, or add a Hellwig leaf spring (I don't know if they are still available).
First, have it inspected at a reputable truck shop. Replace all worn/sloppy parts (front and rear). Hopefully, you can do the work, the labor can eat you alive. Parts can also.
You said you bought tires, hopefully they are inflated for the weight of the MH. If you haven't weighed it, get it done, then inflate the tires to the recommended pressure for the weight. Then have it aligned. Drive it. Remember, a P30 chassis MH is NOT going to drive like your daily driver (unless it is also a bread truck). They are prone to wander, and they do take getting used too. But with replacement of all worn parts, good tires, alignment they can be made fairly stable.
Don't buy any aftermarket bolt on parts, until you have done the aforementioned repairs. You could very well be wasting your money. Depending on wheel base, length, weight could necessitate some aftermarket add-on's down the line, just don't be in any hurry.
What exactly is the wheel base and length? Tire size? Brand of tire did you purchase? Weight of MH? All info that might help others to help you. Good luck.
Agrnbrt wrote: I hate to say but....you got yourself a dreaded P30 chassis.
It's what they do. Look into stearing stabilizers. They will help some. But IMHO the P30 was the worst designed set up ever. I know, we had one. Oh yeah they are soooo much fun when a big rig passes you...ARRRGH!
I really hate to see something like this as the first response... and I think this is the biggest line of bs I've ever read here. But each person has a right to his opinion - and that's all it is here.
I have a great 1987 rig on a P30 and it drives like a dream. I ocassionally get a bit of stay when a large truck passes me from behind. I know how different truck configurations can accentuate (or attenuate) air turbulance. Years of riding a motorcycle will teach one those things.
All the steering parts need to be in good condition as well as tire pressures, airbag inflation, and alignment. Take it in for a good evaluation in all of those areas by a professional truck alignment shop. I'm sure they will find something which, when fixed, will improve your steering considerably.
Brian K7ZRZ
Campgrounding hosting - Oregon State Parks
1987 30' Holiday Rambler Class A
GL1800 Goldwing - Honda Scooter Mounted
2000 Silver Miata LS Toad
How many miles does it have. As others have said find out what your tire pressures should be and inflate accordingly, look for worn out stabilizer bar bushings Weigh the coatch and determine if its over weight ect I have a once ill handeling 1994 P30 and now it handles like a sports car abeit a big heavy sports car!!!!
1995 30' Fleetwood Flair 27000 miles no manifold leak Yet!!
2004 Sportster 883 XL
1999 Saturn SL "TOAD"
1996 Ranger STX 4x4 6" lift
1995 Mustang GT
1989 Ranger 4 x 2 2.9
2001 Kawasaki Mojave 250cc
2001 Honda EX 250cc
Me and all my stuff is OLD!!!!
I had a 1997 Allegro, 30 footer on a P-32 Chevy chassis. I thought it steered fine, but I had moved up from a 21 ft class C on a Dodge chassis and thought it was OK too. I did check the air pressure in the air bags inside the front coil springs and they were low, seems to me for my weight they were supposed to be around 90 PSI but that has been several years ago and wouldn't take that to the bank. I did upgrade the shocks, front & rear with HD Bilsteins. .That improved the overall handling but worn front end parts wasn't an issue being a very low mile rig. I do know the bellcrank can be worn at very low miles in some cases and is a big control issue. The Henderson is well thought of. Good luck.
The older I get, the better I used to be.
1997 Prevost by Country Coach
470 HP Series 60 Detroit / 6 SP. Allison
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Toad
Same Co-Pilot for 43 years
2 Boston Terrier girls, Scooter & Mia
I have a 92, 16000# chassis and had trouble with it after buying it.
I found a flat airbag, new at purchase, mind you. I put in new airbags, inflated to suggested pressure,85-90psi in my case, installed new bilstein shocks on front, replaced the bushings on the sway bar, replaced the bellcrank on drivers side as it was shot with only 21000 miles on it, replaced the draglink as it had play in one end, adjusted the endplay in the right side bellcrank, installed a new steering damper, and I believe that was it.
We have been driving it since. (over 25000 miles)
I should have invested in a steering stabilizer, but haven't done so.
Check all steering components for play and replace if need be.
Good luck.
jenks, fulltiming with the DW. 92 Southwind P3(32) 33 ft. 99 Saturn SL2
Rallys attended-TX 2, LA 2, MS 1, AL 2
MA. 1 drop in for visit.
There are a lot of good suggestions here, from people who either by choice or hobby became diy's (Do It Yourself-ers) when it came to some or most of the diagnostics/maintenance on their motorhomes. I'm not putting them down for it, just for their enthusiasm of giving you the responses they have, assuming you're going to be checking/fixing most of these yourself.
I also have a 2000 Winnebago Adventurer 32V on the Workhorse Chassis, using a P30 series chassis, and it also has a lot of play in the steering which I have repeatedly asked our tech to investigate and tighten up--to no avail.
If--after making sure your tire pressure, suspension and steering components check out okay--it still handles the same, the best advice is that you must learn to "guide" your motorhome down the road, and try not to go over 60mph--something I don't care to do in our old rig either.
Obviously the P30 series was built for the sightseers, not the get-um-there-ers.
2008 Itasca Meridian 37H, All. 3000MH (6-auto), Freightliner XC Chass., Cummins 6.7L Turbo, (Sweet! Delivery 03/12/08). Tow: '07 Dodge Gr. Caravan, Me, Him; Sugarbear, Apr. Toy Poodle; Pepe, Blk Toy Poodle; Hero, fat Siam.-mix polydactyl cat/Alarm Clock.
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