Just returned from a trip and had a little water heater problem. The water heater was leaking a very little from what I call the pop off valve. It was only dripping a little but DH didn't like it. Any suggestions.
Reestablish the air pocket in the water heater. Turn off pressure water. Open tank drain and drain. If Suburban, replace anode at same time-- if Atwood, use new Atwood nylon drain plug. 2 1/2 turns of Teflon tape on threads of either.
If there is no air pocket at the top, as the water is heated and EXPANDS, it has to go somewhere-- like out the safety valve. The air pocket absorbs that PSI increase, as air is a LOT more compressible than water.
If you want some REAL excitement, you can cap off the safety valve.
It's a JOKE!!!! Don't really do that!
Mythbusters did an episode on exploding water heaters (like when stupid people plug up a leaking safety valve). They actually lauched a water heater about 400 feet into the air, totally destroying the little "house" that they installed it in. Anyone inside would have been killed instantly!
As wolfe10 said, if it is dripping a bit while the water heater is on, his remedy will work. Installing a small accumulator tank will stop it also and prevent your pump from cycling so much.
However, if the valve drips when the water heater is off (cold) but the water system is still pressurized, then the valve is defective and needs to be replaced.
Paul (Mouse)
2007 Flagstaff Shamrock 17 Hybrid (heavily modified for boondocking and winter camping).
2007 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4, 4.7L HO, factory tow, 3.92 gears.
Equil-i-zer Hitch, Prodigy.
Yamaha EF2400 Generator (quiet, cause I care!)
Quote:
PRESSURE-TEMPERATURE RELIEF VALVE
Weeping or dripping of a pressure-temperature relief valve while the water heater is running DOES NOT mean it is
defective. This is normal expansion of water as it is heated in the closed water system of a recreation vehicle. The
Atwood water heater tank is designed with an internal air gap at the top of the tank to reduce the possibility of weeping
and dripping. In time, the expanding water will absorb this air. To replace the air follow these steps:
Step 1: Turn off water heater
Step 2: Turn off incoming water supply
Step 3: Open the closest hot water faucet in the coach
Step 4: Pull handle of pressure-temperature relief valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops.
Step 5: Allow pressure-temperature relief valve to snap shut; close faucet; turn on water supply.
Just flushed out our Atwood water heater and the relief valve was dripping afterwards. The step by step process above works perfectly to replace the air gap...no drips now! Thanks.
One of the common causes of TPR (What you call the pop off valve) weeping is high water pressure in the park.. RV systems are very very "Critical" load as it were and when you put cold water into a tank, then heat it, with a check valve in the line,,,,, (Exactly what you do with city water) then high pressure can happen.
If you start with high pressure to begin with, VERY HIGH pressure can result, and drip, drip, drip. (Or woosh from some seales within the MH)
Adding a WATTS or equal whole house adjustable regulator set for 45-50 PSI before the entrance to the rig.... Usually fixes this
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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