I thought I had the 2 switches figured out on our Rockwood's water heater, but I am confused by what seems to have happened.
We have a switch with red light inside the main control panel, and a switch inside the side panel of the heater. I believe the one in the trailer is used only for propane, and the one inside the heater panel is for the 110v hookup.
As our first tank has been consumed rather fast, either the dealer didn't fill it all the way ( possible), or the heater has been running since we purchased it 2 months ago.
The #1 question is, does the inside switch/ light need to be on for the propane to work? I believe the light is for a failure, as it light up when the tank was empty.
Q#2, I am confused by the way to read the outside electric switch. Is "on depressed", or flush with the switch, an "ON" condition? It seems backwards to my logic as I believe when on was depressed the propane came on, so is depressed the current condition, or is what is above flush the current condition of the switch?
I did this with shore power off, so maybe the propane switch over-rides the side unit's switch condition?
Switches have to be "on' for either source of heat to work. If the tank was empty of water, and one or both sources of heat were on, you may have burnt out the electric heating element. If the tank was full of water, but a red light is on, the upper temperature limit switch may have tripped and turned off the heat source. Or, if the red light may be due to failure of the propane to light due to an empty tank or a bee's nest in the vent, or some other malfunction. JMHO
Holiday Rambler Navigator DP, Mustang Convertible, and Honda VT1100C Shadow.
Hemiallen wrote: I thought I had the 2 switches figured out on our Rockwood's water heater, but I am confused by what seems to have happened.
We have a switch with red light inside the main control panel, and a switch inside the side panel of the heater. I believe the one in the trailer is used only for propane, and the one inside the heater panel is for the 110v hookup. This is correct
As our first tank has been consumed rather fast, either the dealer didn't fill it all the way ( possible), or the heater has been running since we purchased it 2 months ago.
The #1 question is, does the inside switch/ light need to be on for the propane to work? I believe the light is for a failure, as it light up when the tank was empty.Yes is does. The light will come on when it's trying to light, goes off once the igniter has lit. I've never noticed whether it indicates an out of gas condition.
Q#2, I am confused by the way to read the outside electric switch. Is "on depressed", or flush with the switch, an "ON" condition? It seems backwards to my logic as I believe when on was depressed the propane came on, so is depressed the current condition, or is what is above flush the current condition of the switch? It's just a rocker switch, either it's on or off
I did this with shore power off, so maybe the propane switch over-rides the side unit's switch condition? I don't believe that this is the case. As a matter of fact, many folks run their tanks on both electric and gas at the same time, helps the tank recover faster under heavy demand.
The 120VAC switch mounted on the heater is as indicated,if you wish for the heater to be "ON" push the "ON" side of the switch.
The RED light on the control panel insde your rig tells you that the LP heater portion is attempting to ignite.If light remains "ON",it is necessary place the switch to "OFF" then back "ON"to make additional attempts to relight.
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