kplender
Denver
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Joined: 08/17/2006
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I received the Banks Exhaust system for my 1997 F53 yesterday (headers to tailpipe). I have been soaking all the exhaust bolts/studs from the exhaust manifold all the way back to the tailpipe with "Kroil" for the last couple of weeks in an effort to "loosen" everything up for disassembly. I will be tackling this on my own (it doesn't look like rocket science to me :-). Any advice from others, who have taken this project on, might want to offer? Thanks in advance!!
1997 Bounder 36S on F53 Chassis
1992 Geo Metro Toad
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jy
south east mich.
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Joined: 01/17/2004
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Unhook the battery first.When I was snaking in one of my headers I touched the hot terminal on the starter.Makes a hell of a spark and could burn a hole in the header.
99 Coachmen 322QB, Ford V10,10 foot Haulmark trailer for dirt bikes, Ford Ranger toad, Gibson exhaust,Royal Purple lubricants.
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Jamesrpm
Oregon Coast
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Joined: 08/30/2003
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Wear eye protection !
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I plan on living forever , so far , so good
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tallyo
Fort Myers,Florida
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Joined: 06/12/2007
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Follow the instructions.
Tallyo
2007 Winnebago Adventurer
W-24, 6 spd Allison
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96Bounder30E
Birthplace of the Boysenberry, Orange County, CA
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Joined: 11/21/2002
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After you remove the manifolds......take a tap and clean out all of holes in the head.....then blow them out with compressed air....
I did not do this and ended up galling a header bolt.....had to remove the header and clean out the holes......would have been easier to do it first......
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Daveinet
il
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Joined: 10/29/2003
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Use a air/impact wrench on LOW and just let it hammer away until the bolts come out. This worked for me - no broken bolts.
Dave
FMCA F298817
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hershey
Albuquerque,(fulltime) NM, USA
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All good advice. One or two more things....insure that you reroute your plug wires away from the headers. The headers will run very hot and can easily burn your wires.
Another thing, tie the MH down with a secure chain the first time you start it up..with the Banks, it will want to smoke the tires and take off before your ready.  
hershey - albuquerque, nm
Someday Finally Got Here
My wife does all the driving - I just get to hold the steering wheel.
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jauguston
Bellingham, WA
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If you need to buy replacement header flange bolts DON"T use stainless steel or grade 8. Grade 5 is best.
Jim, Sharon and Buddy the Yorkie
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Bill&Marie
Camarillo, CA, USA
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Joined: 11/16/2003
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Be sure to use high temp Loctite the red stuff) on all the header bolts and then after a few trips check the torque again. I had my Banks installed at the Azusa Banks factory and never recheck the torque. 2000 miles away in Canada got a funny sound I didn't recognize .... it was exhaust leak on one side. Ford dealer found the problem & tighten them all. By the time I got back to SoCal 2 or 3 bolts were loose again. After red Loctite, never had a problem again.
You'll sure like the results, engine ran so much cooler, pulling hills the big fan didn't engage til I let off the gas at the top of the grade.
Good luck,
Bill
Bill & Marie
'04 Winnebago Chieftain 39T
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dapark
SLC, UT
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I didn't gather that you also bought the torque tubes, if you did, Banks recommends anti-seize on the header bolts. I would NOT use loctite red/blue on the header bolts. Agree to definitely discon the battery. Be sure you utilize the heat shields it comes with on both the muffler and tail pipe. On my torque tubes I went with Grade 8 stainless hex head with stainless washers. Not sure why you would want to go any softer because heat will want to seize them after time and you definitely do not want to twist one off in the head. I was very happy with the full banks kit. Cooler, more torque. Didn't notice hardly anything on gas mileage but it pulled stronger on hills.
2005 Allegro Bay 37DB WH22
1999 Durango is the Toad or
the Milan or the ATVs. Depends on
our compass heading.
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