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 > Installing Banks Exhaust this weekend myself, any advice?

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mike brez

milford ct

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Joined: 09/27/2002

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Posted: 04/16/08 04:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SawZall the old exhaust.I also used anti seize on my header bolts.


1994 Pace Arrow 33L Class A 454 P30 2002 F250 lariet crewcab 4x4 7.3 PSD srw short bed auto 3.73 gears,reese 16k slide hitch,reese brake controller ford factory aic,autometer three guage pod trany temp,pyrometer,turbo boost,banks 4inch monster exhaust,aFe air box,sonnax valve and tri springs,magnafine trans filter,Wicked Wheel,TS flip chip 75/100/125/OMG,03 tt heated/signal mirrors,runningboard leds.Other than that its all stock
2oo4 ground up ridgid chopper 120rwhp
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JoeH

Apollo Beach,FL

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Posted: 04/16/08 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My experience installing the Banks on my MH was good. Everything fit well and went on easily. I also soaked the studs prior to attempting the removal as you are doing and had no issues/broken studs. I hope you have the same luck.

snail

south west Florida

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Posted: 04/16/08 07:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I installed a complete system on our 1994 F 53 several years ago with few problems. You should be able to do the job ok. As i remember access to bolts on the drivers side manifold was somewhat a challenge. Be PATIENT and and don't try to remove header bolts too rapidly. You may need to move around to different bolts to allow one to cool if it is coming very hard. BE PATIENT, it can be very challenging to drill out and retap a broken stud. The advice about using an impact on low is very good advice. Use liberal amounts of a very good quality high temperature anti sease. I would not use stainless steel studs as they can tend to ceise. I agree class 5 would be best.

Be prepaired with a good quality drill bits and taps for the threads. By all means clean the stud holes with a tap before installing new studs. Use anti ceise on all threads and use plenty of it.

I installed the Banks transmission chip at the same time. I think it made a tremendious difference to the mh's operation. Shifting was soooo much better.

good luck, and be patient. One broken stud can cost you hours.


DRIVE A 2001 NEWMAR DUTCH STAR WITH 330 HP CUMMINS AND TOW A RANGER 4X4. TRAVEL WITH SPOUSE AND PET TINKER BELL OUR CORGIE.


Seanman

Arroyo Grande, California

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Posted: 04/16/08 08:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bolts would not come out for my header install, I took the MH for
a drive......they came right out with impact wrench when the engine was hot.


87 Holidy Rambler Imperial
P30,454,TH400,Gear Vendor,Thorleys
FMCA F381797


RLS7201

Gladstone, MO

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Posted: 04/16/08 09:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Kurt, You have received some good and bad advice. Loctite starts to soften and release at 450Âș, making it useless on manifold bolts. Lucky you, Ford moved the master cylinder/power booster from the left frame rail to the fire wall for model year 1997. Access to the left manifold bolts is NOT a problem. Before you try and remove your old exhaust system from the hangers, make sure and oil or grease the hanger pins. As 96BOUNDER30E noted, run a tap in the manifold bolt holes before installing the headers. The two exhaust tube fittings on the left manifold can be difficult to remove. Tapping on them with a small hammer will help loosen the rust in the threads. Loosening the exhaust tube at the EGR valve will help when installing the tube on the headers. All necessary bolts, gaskets and hardware will be included in the kit. No trips to the hardware or parts store are necessary. Have fun. Enjoy your new found performance.


Richard & MichĂȘle Shields
Northland Good Sams
1995 Bounder
32H F53
Banks, TruTrac, Vena
2003 PT Cruiser Pusher
FMCA 395470
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Retired and traveling on your hard earned SS $$. Thanks for your support.


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