Fulltimedale wrote: thanks for the positive feedback wayne. Just an FYI... I've handled 53' rigs (trucks) before, not that there exactly the same, but I think I will learn and there are plenty of campgrounds that handle a 40' travel trailer, 42' with hitch. I did my research before I bought it and the campgrounds that I want to go to handle them.. just takes a phone call to see. The weight of the trailer is just over 10,000 pounds dry, the 2005 F350 diesel can handle 15,000 pounds, so I think I'm fine there. Not that my experience was the question here or my truck or the campgrounds. The question was about the tie-downs.
the U bracket sounds like a great idea though thanks.
Only the DRW can handle 15K and it requires a 2.5" reciever to do so. The rest are limited to 12.5K
I went to their website to take a look and they certainly look nice. Very roomy and comfortable. I can see the attraction. If you only move it occasionally and do your homework regarding places to stay, the size should not be a problem.
Now for the fridge. I would certainly try to figure out some way to secure it upright. Unloading it and laying it on it's side seems like a real pain. As a previous poster suggested, perhaps the problem is with the floor strength for the slide when it is in. Maybe you can provide some reinforcement blocks to solve that problem. Another possibility would be to create another place to secure it for travel, after removing it from the slide. A pair or two of eye bolts attached to wall studs should provide a sufficient place to attach a ratchet strap or two. I am sure that this is a wood framed unit, so there should be something secure to attach to.
Good luck with this. I am sure that there is a better answer than lying it down every time you want to move.
Hmmm... I actually did look at the structure of the flooring before I bought and its better than most especially the steel supports. We also did not go for the standard push/pull outs (manual), but got electric ones... it is an option, so we just push a buttons for all 4 slides (automatic), and with the electric slides you don't need the blocks for traveling. You should have looked more closely at Hy-Line with the upgrades. It was exactly what we were looking for and we went to a lot of RV shows to see all the mfg... the rest seemed very cheaply made at least in our price range and size. Again, I didn't mean to start on rethinking towing decisions. I've already made the life changes and leaving in June. I've bought both already .. the trailer and the 350. Park model or not, it doesn't matter WHAT it is... I already have a reservation at a campground who says no problem at all.. they can handle bigger. I've called others from GA to CA and in between. They all take larger and say that their campgrounds were enhanced to handle the bigger rigs. I say get with the times and as with everything all over, bigger and better and change to support the bigger and better. The more modern campgrounds do is what I've found out. Also.. the 350 is for 15K.. 6.0 diesel with tow package and weight distribution bar. So... since it does not matter what its called... a frog, a toad, a travel trailer or a park model.. its still was made to move. I paid extra for that to happen, like I said 3rd axle and tanks.. there is no difference between MOST travel trailers and park models, except maybe home size appliances and maybe a foot or two more in length. funny how 38' is considered a travel trailer and 40' is a park model.
By the way for the person on the structure of it. - The use larger support beems than most of the other manufactures (I compared) do that are solid steel and solid steal for the cross beems as well. I feel very comfortable with the structure which is all that matters in the end.
I'll figure out a way to support the refrig on my own.
Sorry Dixenmatco... forgot to answer your question on which model... Actually Hy-line allows you to customize your unit at no additional charge to a point anyway... we chose the front half of one of their models and the back half of another one. That was no additional charge, the 3 axles of course were additional and also the black and grey tanks.
So... we got the front half (Kitchen forward) of 42CG1PE and the back half of 42CG1PB and they changed the bed for us to a king size bed too. There both considered park model 1 bedrooms, but since we added the tanks and 3rd axle, it can be classified as a travel trailer and was titled as such (please no debate over the names again).
Your idea on the straps, is what we came up with too, which is what were probably going to use. Its not a real heavy refrigerator, its a home refrigerator but on the small size. Thanks for the input!
Nice! The combination of the two makes for a trailer larger than my first apartment!
As far as the refer goes, you have so many slides that there is not much free wall space to tie it to, however you might be able to strap it to the cabinet and counter in front of the sink. Putting it there would not require much movement of it as well.
Hey Dixon.. we picked up the trailer and a few problems that their fixing.. like no hot water... wasn't working, etc... but were happy with it for sure. We had our first weekend in it. The 350 pulled it great, thought we were going to feel it more, but with the weight distribution bars (the equalizer) it worked well. We figured out what to do with the frig I think. We thought we would use tie down straps (the ratchit ones - spelling I know). We would put one cleat on the bottom right side of frig on slide wood beam and go underneatch the frig with the strap, then up to the top with the strap and hook it to another cleat on the top left. Both cleats would be in the wood support beams in the wall for the slide out. Its a small slide out for the kitchen (only 5 feet). Then we would tighten it down and easy to un-hitch and just leave the strap under the frig while were parked. We plan to stay parked for 3-4 months at a time, so not a big deal. What do you think?
Sounds like a workable solution to me.. Anything seems easier than having to empty it completely and laying it down. All the speculation about floor strength etc. may not have been inportant at all. It seems like the real problem was simply that the fridge was not attached to anything and they did not want it tipping over in route. Sounds like you have that solved.. Just get good straps.. There are more junk ones on the market than good ones, but they are available with a little searching.
Seems to me like Fulltimedale is getting beat up a little here.
To give my two cents on the question at hand. The residential fridge should have a steel frame on the bottom. Can you use some angle brackets and secure the fridge to the floor and use the method above that someone else suggested and fasten to the wall studs behind? I think it would work well for you. Most campgrounds have plenty of room for 40 plus foot MH pulling toads, I don't think you will have much trouble finding campgrounds to accommodate that monster
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If you go with the brackets that needga$$ suggests, I would add both at the top and bottom. If just at the bottom, there will too much leverage from the fridge leaning and they just pull out. The strap sound like it's workable.
Make sure you secure the door closed as well, either with a bungee or straps.
Last but not least, be sure to secure the contents inside the fridge, you can get spring loaded bars at Camping World for this. Especially jars, etc, they will fly all over the inside of the fridge if allowed to.
As an aside, travel trailers have a 12v battery system with mostly 12v lighting, heat, and a gas absorbtion fridge that runs on propane or electric. In conjunction with the holding tanks, this enables a travel trailer to be "self-contained" ie operate in a field by itself somewhere. Most trailers the only thing that doesn't work with 120V power is the a/c and the microwave.
Park models are designed to be connected to utilities in a campground or other semi-permanent location. Not that this is relevant for you, but wanted to point out the difference is not just size.
You mention staying at a location for a few months and then moving on...you may want to consider a small generator to keep the fridge cold while enroute. You could fabricate a bumper mount for the trailer or run it in the bed of the truck (assuming you don't have a cap LOL) while underway. A Honda 2000 should do the job for you.
Have fun and post back once you embark on your adventure!
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