To my knowledge the pyrometer setup is strictly aftermarket. And there are some more expensive models available which will leave the engine running after the key is turned off until that temperature comes down. And by the way, Dodge Cummings turbos run a lot hotter than other turbos, according to the shop which will install my pyrometer.
Because of that, my shop always drills out the spot for the pyrometer ahead of the turbo on a Dodge. Other makes often install behind the turbo, as any shavings from the threading cannot get into the delicate turbo.
For your information, the company I work for has a fleet of bigger trucks and we keep turbos in stock, as we lose them every so often. Usually with a bang and a huge cloud of brown smoke. When that happens, we kill the engine and wait for a replacement on site or a tow, as limping back with the turbo out will fill the innercooler with oil which is almost impossible to clean out. That oil will later evaporate into the engine and can cause overreving. If you think a turbo is expensive, try replacing the whole engine.
I heard one way to install pre-turbo pyro without removing the turbo is to drill and tap while the engine is running. This way, the positive exhaust pressure would force any shavings out of the hole, as you're drilling / tapping.
There are two or three ways to install the probe. If you are not your own mechanic, there are diesel engine shops all over the country that have plenty of experience doing installations, both pre and post turbo. And the Cummins (NO G!!) turbo, or any other turbo for that matter, does not produce heat, so therefore will not run hotter than other turbos. Pre-turbo probes will show approx 300 degrees higher temps than a post-turbo install. Pre-turbo is also more responsive. If you need info I'd suggest going to one of the Dodge/Cummins sites TDR or DTR. There are others as well. The point is, you will get a lot of bad info on an RV site if you need info on an associated subject, like pyrometers.
Seems like Diesel Manor is getting the most raves for being customer friendly and have great gauge packages with good installation instructions.
I think I'll be contacting them.
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One thing I noticed on their website. They gave detailed website pictures and instruction on installing the various devices/probes/senders that your gauges monitor, i.e. pyrometer probe, Tranny temp, sender, etc., but I didn't see any specific instructions on how to mount the various gauge pods and route the wiring and or tubes under your truck's plastic interior pieces.
I'm leaning towards those Windshield/top gauge mounts that just go between the Dodge Ram overhead computer and the rear view mirror. I like that location rather than having the gauges sticking out on the driver's side A-pillar. Looks like only they only offer them on the Dodge Ram interior.
Anyway, I don't see any information on how to mount the gauges up top, and what to do in routing the gauge wires/tubes.....etc. to their respective places. Obvously some trim must be removed, but I thought Diesel Manor would show that along with the probe and sender installation pictures/instructions.
Does Diesel Manor send additional instructions on the gauge pod, and wiring routing inside the truck when you order a kit?
Gunpilot77 wrote: There are two or three ways to install the probe. If you are not your own mechanic, there are diesel engine shops all over the country that have plenty of experience doing installations, both pre and post turbo. And the Cummins (NO G!!) turbo, or any other turbo for that matter, does not produce heat, so therefore will not run hotter than other turbos. Pre-turbo probes will show approx 300 degrees higher temps than a post-turbo install. Pre-turbo is also more responsive. If you need info I'd suggest going to one of the Dodge/Cummins sites TDR or DTR. There are others as well. The point is, you will get a lot of bad info on an RV site if you need info on an associated subject, like pyrometers.
Diesel Manor shows installing the Pyrometer probe on the 3rd generation Cummins on the side of the exhaust manifold or Pre-turbo end of the system, at the area that covers cylinders 4-6. It says that if you mount/drill the turbo pyrometer on the top of the manifold as a secondary choice, the temp reading will be a few hundred degree's higher.
It will provide drill bit and tap for a price, but recommends using a very small drill bit as a pilot hole, and going gradually up in drill bit size for two reasons. First reason is, if you break off a bit it will end up inside your manifold, then you got some bigger problems. Secondly, if you go up gradually in drill bit size, the metal cuttings will be very small or dust-like in size and will not cause damage to your turbo if they fall in the manifold. Also, they caution against putting any lube on the drill bit as this can cause more metal filings to fall into the manifold, as a dry bit will naturally push the cuttings out of the hole through the flutings/grooves in the drill bit, and thence not in your manifold. Lastly, they recommend vacuuming the hole to suck out some filings/cutting from drilling.
Also, one other thing. Some folks on the forum have mentioned about running the engine while drilling the pyrometer probe hole as they believe the filings from drilling will blow outward from manifold pressure, and not fall in the manifold. Diesel Manor cautions against that, because if you break off your drill bit, you won't have time to stop the engine before that piece of hardened drill bit gets sucked away hits your turbo blades. and costs you about $1,500 for a new turbo.
When we originally purchased our 04.5 3500 RAM CTD, we did not purchase any aftermarket gauges as our 5er weighed only 4,000#. However, last summer we bought a new 5er with a dry weight of 9,000# and loaded weight of 10,000#. This was loaded and ready to travel on a 6,500 mile trip to Ontario and back.
Needless to say this was going to be a lot different trip for the CTD compared to previous trips. I decided to purchase ISSPRO EV gauges from Diesel Manor; EGT, transmission temp and lift pump pressure. This has been the best investment made to date for the TV. I mounted the EGT pre turbo.
During the trip, and hauls up the Coquihalla and through the Rockies, we could easily hit 1200 - 1300 F temps on the EGT gauge. WE could easily push the temps higher if I gave it more pedal, but i didn't want to go over 1250 for more than 30 seconds at a time. The EGT gauge is a very good indicator of engine load and it is very sensitive to changes in engine load. I was quite disciplined about the EGT temp being at 350 for 1 - 1 1/2 minutes before shutting it down. Sometimes this meant idling for 5 - 8 minutes.
Transmission temp was always good (outside temp plus 80 degrees nominally) if the TC was locked up, as it would be on the highway. Biggest challenge for transmission occurs during lower speed through town and, get this, backing up hill. This is where we saw the highest temps of 240 F.
I was very thankful to have installed these gauges before the trip. Roy
When we originally purchased our 04.5 3500 RAM CTD, we did not purchase any aftermarket gauges as our 5er weighed only 4,000#. However, last summer we bought a new 5er with a dry weight of 9,000# and loaded weight of 10,000#. This was loaded and ready to travel on a 6,500 mile trip to Ontario and back.
Needless to say this was going to be a lot different trip for the CTD compared to previous trips. I decided to purchase ISSPRO EV gauges from Diesel Manor; EGT, transmission temp and lift pump pressure. This has been the best investment made to date for the TV. I mounted the EGT pre turbo.
During the trip, and hauls up the Coquihalla and through the Rockies, we could easily hit 1200 - 1300 F temps on the EGT gauge. WE could easily push the temps higher if I gave it more pedal, but i didn't want to go over 1250 for more than 30 seconds at a time. The EGT gauge is a very good indicator of engine load and it is very sensitive to changes in engine load. I was quite disciplined about the EGT temp being at 350 for 1 - 1 1/2 minutes before shutting it down. Sometimes this meant idling for 5 - 8 minutes.
Transmission temp was always good (outside temp plus 80 degrees nominally) if the TC was locked up, as it would be on the highway. Biggest challenge for transmission occurs during lower speed through town and, get this, backing up hill. This is where we saw the highest temps of 240 F.
I was very thankful to have installed these gauges before the trip. Roy
Roy: Thanks for that very specific info. on your personal experience towing.
I'm going to be investing in gauges shortly. Have to do some bill paying this month and see how our budget is first.
Just dropped my truck off at the dealer and they are replacing the turbo in the morning as the waste gate is sticking. My truck is out of warranty but the cost is being covered by the 5/100,000 engine coverage. I will call the dealership in the morning and see if I can get them to pre drill the turbo for the gauge before the install. And yes it would have cost me $1700.00 if I had to pay for it.
Don
* This post was
edited 04/30/08 07:51pm by Perrysburg Dodgeboy *
Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote: Just dropped my truck off at the dealer and they are replacing the turbo in the morning as the waste gate is sticking. My truck is out of warranty but the cost is being covered by the 5/100,000 engine coverage. I will call the dealership in the morning and see if I can get them to pre drill the turbo for the gage before the install. And yes it would have cost me $1700.00 if I had to pay for it.
Don
Don & Others: I just went down to my Dodge dealer, and they have all the gauges and gauge pods offered through Dodge, or Mopar performance.
Only problem is that Dodge charges one heck of a lot for labor on the installation of the sender units and running the appropriate wiring.
I think I'm going the Diesel Manor route.
I think I'm might have to go the Diesel Manor route, as Dodge is quoting me over $900.00 for labor alone, and the three gauges; boost, pyrometer, and Tranny temp
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