I have an old thread that I started some time ago and I was going to get around to posting a picture of my wiring for my isolator. Here is a picture, what I would like to know is if the wire at the lowermost connects to the - ground side of the battery, I can't remember, heck I'm not even sure if it's connected to the right connector on the Isolator, all I know is that when the rig is running the battery doesn't seem to be recharging and the key has to be in the middle in order for the in dash meter to register power, at least I think that's the case, I have recently verified that I have a hot wire grounding so that may have been the cause, anyhow the rig is an 80's Itasca Sun Cruiser if that helps, the batteries are two in serial or is that parallel? And a single house battery. I would really like to trade this rig soon and it certainly would help if I can start her up and have the wiring down correctly.
#1, looks like somebody threw a bowl of red spagetti at the isolator, electricians nightmare. Only suspecting, the yellow is the ignition to activate the isolator, the rusty nut is the alternator input and the extreme upper and lower are the positive output to each battery. If it is a positive ground type setup, then the whole isolator unit has to be mounted so that the case does not short out to ground, I think I see a screw holding it to the chassis. Each of the negative terminals on a "normal" negative ground system are grounded to the frame, none touch the isolator.
Fisherman wrote: #1, looks like somebody threw a bowl of red spagetti at the isolator, electricians nightmare.
Yep sure does look a little like that, well it was like that when I bought it and honestly I haven't had an opportunity to have an auto electrician look at it.
I don't see a rusty nut, what I really need to figure out is what's the deal with the lower wire, does it connect to the negative terminal on the battery? I think that's where it was located before, the only thing I have replaced on the there is the battery cables since the old ones were bad.
Ha, ha, spagetti... anyway, not your fault, but, the second nut down appears mostly brownish=rusty?, alternator input. The upper nut/stud provides +12V to the starting battery, the lowest nut/stud provides +12V to the "deep cycle" or house battery(ies) when the vehicle has the motor running. Hope this helps. I have never seen any of the nut/stud positions used for the negative side of a battery, might be wrong, but I doubt it.
I would take a good look at the mounting of the heatsink. The one screw that can be seen is a little iffy. I would and a couple screws and use a washer. If the unit were to fall off you could have an electrical fire.
It looks like a Sure Power isolator for the Delco CS series alternators. It is one of the Group 2 isolators in this: Installation Instructions.
There is some testing info at the end of that document.
Mel & Mary Ann; Mo'Be (More Behave...) and Bella
"If you have an RV, you don't need another hobby." Comment from a friend...
73 Kountry Aire 31.5 ft (semi-retired) TT
90 Champion LaSalle MH 29 ft P30 (89 Chassis)
With out knowing what is on the other end of the wires it's hard to know
For the folks who wonder about the small yellow wire, that type of isolator needs no activation, that is the voltage regulator sense wire, Compensates for voltage drop in the isolator
The only concern I have is the alternator lead is pressed up against one of the battery connection studs (Top one) I'd move it so that wire is not so "Friendly" with the stud, I'd be concerned about the wire rubbing against the stud and wearing of the insulation.. Other than that,, We really can not tell
Batteries connect top and bottom, Heavy center stud is Alternator, and I already explained the small stud
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business John is Near Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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