I have a similar truck, and the e-brake can be adjusted to hold well. I just did mine. If you are backing up in a mainly straight line on dirt and have 4WD you could use 4 low. That is less work for the trans. But that's a lot of if's.
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NHguy wrote: I have a similar truck, and the e-brake can be adjusted to hold well. I just did mine. If you are backing up in a mainly straight line on dirt and have 4WD you could use 4 low. That is less work for the trans. But that's a lot of if's.
Well when I am turning the trailer to get into my slip (aligning between the two trailers on each side of my unit where it is parked) the truck isn't straight but after that it is. Yes, it is a dirt field like area that I am driving on when parking the trailer. Can I use 4WD Low in this case or ONLY if I am backing up straight the ENTIRE time? Also, is the e-brake adjustment something I can do my self or is that an item that you need to take the vehicle in for? Thanks,
As soon as you are off the hard pavement you can use 4lo and I strongly recommend it to make the uphill positioning easier. Besides it is good excercise for the 4wd system to use it periodically. You can drive all day and 1000s of miles in 4lo with no harm to the system as long as you are off the pavement.
The parking brake should be self adjusting. You should remove the rear disk/drum to get to the brakes and make sure they are adjusted properly before you just tighten the actuator cable.
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smkettner wrote: As soon as you are off the hard pavement you can use 4lo and I strongly recommend it to make the uphill positioning easier. Besides it is good excercise for the 4wd system to use it periodically. You can drive all day and 1000s of miles in 4lo with no harm to the system as long as you are off the pavement.
So I can use 4lo even when I am backing the trailer up the hill? That slight rolling forward from the incline and the weight of the TV and TT won't harm the 4WD system when I let off the brake and switch to the gas?
* This post was
edited 05/02/08 10:49am by TWhaylen *
Not only is it OK you will find the 4lo applies far less stress to the entire drivetrain. The brake to gas will be much easier as you start to back up. You will be amazed at what a 2.5 to 1 gear reduction will do for you. You paid for those gears, use them. As you don't seem familiar with the 4wd system I suggest rereading that section of the owners manual to get familiar with it. I try to use my 4lo at every opportunity.
smkettner wrote: Not only is it OK you will find the 4lo applies far less stress to the entire drivetrain. The brake to gas will be much easier as you start to back up. You will be amazed at what a 2.5 to 1 gear reduction will do for you. You paid for those gears, use them. As you don't seem familiar with the 4wd system I suggest rereading that section of the owners manual to get familiar with it. I try to use my 4lo at every opportunity.
I am familiar with 4hi from living here in Colorado but have never had a reason to really use my 4lo.
The "clunk" is most likely the pressure on the parking pawl...when you are in park with no parking brake, this is all that holds your vehicle from moving. When you are on a slope, this puts more pressure on the pawl so when you shift into gear, you are just slipping the pin free and putting the weight back on the drive train. I usually put on the p-brake first then park...if it's a steep incline, I still get some roll and just deal with it.
As for the backing part, yes, you are putting more wear on the transmission becuase you are heating the plates up with the high revs unless it's locked up, any time you have slip, you have increased friction and heat and the friction/heat is what causes the majority of the wear...only thing you can really do about it is find a more level spot to park.
4 low will help as stated, at slow speeds I wouldn't even be concerned by being on pavemant, the same systems are being used, just with lower gears...definitely avoid tight turns tho as you will get some hop out of the system. Ever watch the rock crawlers on the outdoor network or whatever it is now? Those folks are using low range at low speeds and can do some amazing things with a vehicle...
Gee whiz… I didn’t know you have a 4x4 truck! That changes everything. Oh, yes, use the low range to back it in. That will make it MUCH easier.
The reason you shouldn’t use low range on dry pavement is because due to the VERY high torque (sent to the wheels) involved, the system ALWAYS locks in the front axle. That helps prevent broken rear axles since the front end is also driving as well as the back end. The two axle ratios are slightly different with about 0.5:1 lead on the front end to help the truck track straight on loose dirt. (The same axle ratios would make the truck squirrelly) That causes bind-up on pavement and will wear the tires out FAST. (Also hard on U-joints etc.) For that matter, high range front axle lock shouldn’t be used for the same reasons.
Your low speed, short distance to back the trailer won’t hurt a thing, and it will make controlling everything MUCH easier. If it does bind up and the transfer case doesn’t want to come back out of gear when you’re done, just put one set of tires on gravel or grass to release the bind-up, and drive slowly as you shift it to neutral. (If you have automatic hubs, driving backwards might also help since they’ll disengage) Once you hit neutral, turn off the engine and re-engage high range. I do that in the Dodge Durango too – it eliminates gear crashing because the transfer case input gearing is spinning at double speed in low range.
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Thanks for all the info guys, it seems I have some tip to try out next time I am out there with the trailer. I guess the good thing is that once I make my turn to back the trailer up into my storage slot, I only have to push it up the slope for about 40ft. before it is parked nicely.
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That changes everything. Oh, yes, use the low range to back it in. That will make it MUCH easier.
