I'm leaving on an All-Girls-Running-Away-From-Home trip in about 8 days - Tennessee up to Chicago suburbs to pick up my friends, and on to Waterton/Glacier Parks and back. I purposely planned the route at the furthermost western point to AVOID the Interstates - both due to my inexperience and to maybe see a little more of less visited towns/sites.
Now, based on a thread on a different section of this forum, I wonder if I need to re-think that routing? The other discussion said that Interstates were designed to not be over a 6% grade and that "side roads" can be really, really bad (in a grade sense). Here's a photo (in two different modes to maybe see the route easier in one than the other) of the route. The most I'm avoiding the Interstate is from yellow squares 6 through just past 9.
Are there horrific grades on those non-interstate roads that I should be aware of? I have a 2008 Fun Finder (VERY light - under 3,500# total) and a 2006 Toyota Sienna van. I am being (and making my friends, too) VERY concerned about weight. I have an Equalizer hitch with WD and anti-sway, and a Prodigy brake controller.
How much do I need to worry? (This is my first ever real trip of any length/duration)
Thanks once again for your input! (hope this makes some sense and keep your fingers crossed!!! (mainly, that you don't run into us on the road...lol))
Regards,
Michelle
2008 Fun Finder X-160
2006 Toyota Sienna Limited
Equal-i-zer Hitch
Prodigy Brake Controller
The information you quotes is correct about both the 06% limit for sustained grades on Interstate highways AND the fact that back roads MAY be a lot steeper. That does not mean that ALL back roads are steep and most are NOT any steeper or marginally steeper than Interstates. US highways sometimes go as much as 07 or 08% and a FEW state highways may be steeper but I sure wouldn't like that keep ME from getting off of the Interstate so you can actually SEE part of the great scenery available. If grades are a big concern to you get hold of a copy of mountain directory and look up the roads you're considering to see just what they are listed as. Also keep in mind that a 15% grade is no big deal if it's only a half mile long and that's OFTEN the case with ultra steep roads.
In the area around Glacier Park there are few roads that are more than 07% grade so in THAT area at least I wouldn't concern myself about it.
Stay away from the interstates. They are soooooo boring and due to high usage by commercial vehicles are quite often in poor repair. Rattle your teeeeeth. Your maps are too high level for me to tell which highways you have planned. Get the Mountain Directory for info on steep grades.
http://www.mountaindirectory.com/
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2008 327RLT Montana Mountaineer 35 ft. 5th wheel 2005 Alaska and other Trip Logs
Are these 'side roads' US numbered highways, state numbered ones, county or forest service? Grades on US and state numbered roads generally aren't much worse than freeways.
It looks to me that you are taking US16 across the Big Horn Mtns (after leaving I90 at Buffalo, WY). That is the easiest road across these mountains. This, and US14 and 14A, have been discussed many times.
It looks like you are taking US310 to Red Lodge. I haven't taken it, but it appears to follow a valley, so shouldn't have bad grades. Again, it is a US numbered road.
Cody to Red Lodge via Chief Joesph and Beartooth WY296 and US212 does climb significantly, and perhaps more importantly drops spectacularly down to Red Lodge. Again, that has been discussed quite a bit. US212 and US14A are two exceptions to the 'rule' that US# roads aren't much steeper than freeways.
It looks as though you are taking US12 to Helena.
Another thought - across Wyoming and Montana, there is not a big difference in traffic and boredom between freeways and other highways. Freeway traffic is not bad in this area. You can, for example, settle into the right lane, and let the faster cars pass you. Exits are few and far between. Off the freeway, towns are few and far between. For the most part you are traveling across the high plains. You'll encounter the Rockies around Helena, and again in Glacier. Beyond that you have just a couple smaller ranges, the Big Horns and the Big Belt Mtns before Helena. These are shown on an ordinary Road Atlas.
paulj
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In spite of the data from paulj ( not disputed here!)you really have no route planned that includes grades to be concerned about. Looks like agreat trip to me.
John
We always take the old numbered highways where we aren't locked into cities. Much more pleasant. We tow a 4800# HTTTH with our 3.2 liter V6 and have no issues. I think you'll be fine off the interstates.
Chuck
Wonderful Wife
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By all means stay off the freeways as much as possible. We have taken several of those routes that you have laid out and you should have no problems. The main thing is to keep your speed down as you start down the descents and down shifting at the top of the hill before you start down. General rule of thumb is go down the hill in the same gear that you used going up. Sometimes I will even down shift one gear lower if it is really steep going down.
Take your time and you should have no problem. Enjoy the scenery, its great.
Ron & Carolyn
Sadie the Irish Terrier
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If you want to see less visited towns and sights, I'd suggest looking at more detailed guidebook or two. I like using the Moon handbooks.
Some things to consider along your route are:
Thermopolois host springs
Greybull
Cody - east gateway to Yellowstone
Medicine Wheel (leave trailer behind in Lovell?)
Red Lodge - NE gateway to Yellowstone
side trip to Beartooth Pass (w/o trailer)
Billings - big city in Montana terms, small in eastern ones
next to no towns between Billings and Helena
Butte, Helena and Great Falls all may have some history and small city options
Choteau - only town along US89 (didn't see much there)
consider going up the west side of the divide to Kalispell and west Glacier
take the van over going-to-the-sun through Glacier
consider a loop north into BC Canada, taking Hwy 3 over Crowsnest
and on to Waterton, and the east side of Glacier
If possible be flexible. You might find one area so interesting that you want to spend extra time there, and make up for it by speeding on to the next. For example, after reaching Red Lodge you might be ready to take the freeway east to Bozeman and some 'decent' college town chow.
Michelle, I don't know those roads but I think you will be fine as long as you allow extra time to slow down on the hills both going up or down. Use the lever to hold a lower gear to avoid excess shifting and cruise to the top. Staying off the interstates will make the journey far more interesting IMO.
2001 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 Lariat Offroad 4x4 Tow Package 4.10 Truetrac
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If you have never driven on steep grades, here is how to use the brakes:
The followig quote is from the Trucker's World Magazine, Volume 5, Issue 6, June 2001:
Snub braking is now the recommended method of downhill braking. This method works by: first, choosing the correct gear for the hill; second, allowing the truck to speed up to the maximum safe speed as it descends the hill; third, applying the brakes hard to slow the truck down 5 mph; and then repeating this process to the bottom of the hill.
Snub braking became the recommended method of downhill braking as a result of testing done by University of Michigan Transportation Research Institute. This research found that trucks with properly balanced brake systems had basically the same average brake temperature when using either the controlled or snub braking method. However, trucks with poor brake balance were found to have more uniform brake temperatures when the snub method was used.
http://www.drivetosurvive.org/brakes.htm has this information:
•In recent years there has been some erroneous information going around about how to brake on long downhills. It was suggested not too long ago that a continuous application of the brakes as opposed to intermittent application or snubbing was the preferred method. THIS IDEA IS COMPLETELY WRONG!
•The proponents of the old theory have rescinded it, there is now (almost) universal agreement that the proper way to brake on a downgrade is to intermittently apply all your service brakes in a way that will reduce the speed of a fully loaded vehicle by about 5 or 6 mph during each application. What is key here is not the speed drop, this will depend on weight, grade and other factors, but air pressure, you have got to get the application pressure high enough to get all your brakes working.
Clattertruck
2008 SD F450 PSD 6.4L CC 4X4 DRW, Lariat Auto trans 4.30 LS, 2008 Snowriver 108 truck camper. Jeep Unlimited Rubicon as toad.
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