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 > Which Equal-i-zer shank

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RonNN

Wisconsin

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Posted: 05/06/08 06:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an Equal-i-zer with a standard shank, 3"drop. now with careful measuring I find out I should have one with a 4" drop.
I just towed the TT home, 400 miles with the original shank without any problems although occasionally I thought the front end of the TV felt slightly light.
Will an additional inch drop make any difference in handling. The extra money for the new shank doesn't matter if it makes a difference and is the right thing to do.
Also, why do they have a shank with a 18" length. Is that any better than the standard 12" length, must be some reason for it.
Thanks in advance for all the knowledgable answers.

RonN

havedreamwilltravel

Southern California

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Posted: 05/06/08 08:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ron -

On the Equalizer website you can plug in some numbers from your tow vehicle and trailer and it will tell you which shank you should have - Scroll down the page to the bottom, follow the directions, plug in the numbers and see what it tells youClick here

If you are still unsure, give them a call or an email with your question. They have amazing customer service and are good honest people and will get back to your email or answer your question very quickly.

* This post was edited 05/07/08 09:28am by havedreamwilltravel *


2007 GMC Yukon Denali - 6.2L 380hp/417ft-lbs,0-60 in 6.2 seconds
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Visited a lot of states, haven't camped in many...yet.


Earl E

Klamath Falls, Oregon

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Posted: 05/06/08 10:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ditto the above answer. Just contact Equalizer. They are great folks and you will get THE answer instead of a bunch of our opinions.


2008 Keystone Springdale 252
2004 Chevy Silverado, 5.3 L V8
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Retired and traveling all we can!


Rob_315er

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 05/07/08 06:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only thing the drop will do is change the angle of the TT. It will not affect weight distribution.

What were your measurements on your front and rear fenders before and after the hitch? Was there a rise on the front and a drop on the rear? If so, you don't have enough angle on the head and need to add washers.

If your TT is level or slightly nose-down when hitched up, then you don't need a larger drop shank.

What is your TT and TV?

Post a pic of the setup hooked up.


2008 8317SS
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RonNN

Wisconsin

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Posted: 05/08/08 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the help. The trailer rides level but I suspect the front of the truck is slightly higher. If I ever start to figure out this digital world I will post some pictures.
Thanks again, Ron

Rob_315er

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 05/08/08 09:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like you need to put more tension on the bars.

havedreamwilltravel

Southern California

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Posted: 05/08/08 10:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rob_315er wrote:

Sounds like you need to put more tension on the bars.


Actually, on the Equalizer, it is recommended that you add washers to the hitch head FIRST before adding tension to the bars. The bars should be parallel to the A-Frame on the trailer.

If you need more weight transferred to the front of the vehicle, add an additional washer or two and then re-measure and test drive.

We left the hole in the L-Bracket at #5 and ended up adding 3 more washers to our hitch head - and it tows like a dream.

Also make sure to weigh your trailer and tongue and have your tongue weight at 13% of the trailer weight. This in combination with bringing down the front end of the truck will help a LOT.

PM me if you have any set-up questions or measuring re: the Equalizer - i'm glad to help.

Rob_315er

Rochester, NY

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Posted: 05/08/08 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yep.... told him above to add tension to the bars by adding washers. You should not try to add tension by moving the "L" brackets. You want to keep those bars parallel.

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